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Leopard (OS X 10.5) isn't supporting programming the Arduino BT over Bluetooth so I've been using the Mac Mini run through remote desktop to program it. I find it odd running programs graphicly on another computer.
My take on the arduino based PC ambient lighting project posted here: siliconrepublic.blogspot.com/2011/02/arduino-based-pc-amb...
I used the same embedded arduino code and wiring setup to get it working, but main difference is that I used Python code instead of Processing for the desktop client, and I used an arduino proto shield to make a compact package that I could hide on my desk. I'm still tweaking the code so that it can work with fullscreen applications like games and average all 3 monitors instead of the center, but as it is now it works really well.
WIP python code: dl.dropbox.com/u/9993009/AmbiLight.py
USB Power supply takes the 8.75vac input, and with a bridge rectifier, 3 capacitors, and a 7805 regulator, turns it into a nice 5v regulated supply carried by a mashed up USB cable to the Arduino.
The hardware is not particularly complicated: the Arduino is connected to the switches via two daisy-chained 74HC165's, the 8 Data LEDs are controlled via a 74HC595. The four Control LEDs are connected to Arduino pins. In addition I added a DS1307 RTC so that the Kenbak-uino might serve a useful purpose -- as a clock!
I'm using Dale Wheat's excellent Breadboard Arduino.
Arduino based 4 bar MIDI sequencer. Plays 4 chords to any MIDI device. Chords can be changed on the fly. Works well with Ableton Lives arpeggiator.
This is a binary clock that was built into a 3d-printed case created in Minecraft. It shows the current time in a binary coded decimal format.
The model was exported with the free tool Mineways and printed on a Zprinter 650 3d-printer, with a block size of 125mm^3 (so every block has an edge length of 5mm). After printing, LEDs were glued into the case after filing the openings a bit wider. Then, the LEDs were soldered to form a 4x4 LED matrix, and the matrix was connected to an Arduino board.
A technical description of the setup as well as downloads of the model and the code can be found here: postapocalypticresearchinstitute.wordpress.com/2012/07/18...
A simple heartbeat sensor for arduino. Communicates each beat to the computer via serial over USB. A little script in Processing sends OSC messages to SuperCollider which makes a sound. Processing also displays a graph of beats per minute readings from the Arduino.
This version sends serial messages over the USB connection, a later version sends OSC messages over ethernet (even cooler!) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/chuck_notorious/4041494889/).
Next step: use the Arduino Ethernet shield to send OSC messages directly.
Next Next Step: Use this as part of a cool multimedia performance!
(It's on this week at the Street Theatre in Canberra! www.lastmantodie.net)
Information: cmpercussion.blogspot.com/2009/07/heartbeat-sensor.html
This is a simple persistence of vision hack using the Arduino platform. It took about 20 minutes to put this together and write the code, though I only bothered with a three letter font so far.
Quite late in the game, I've finally bought myself an Arduino board to brush up on electronics and make ... well, something
a bit customized... LED on the bottom and an additional Vin and gnd pin
photos by: flickr.com/ermuggo
UPDATE: study from Indiana University:
news.indiana.edu/releases/iu/2014/09/slow-walking-sitting...
Given the way science is not well vetted by the media, I'm concerned that this "sitting is killing you" movement is just another fad.
www.npr.org/2012/05/09/152336802/stand-up-walk-around-eve...
Never-the-less, I do believe it is probably a good idea for me to not sit at a computer for six hours at a stretch. But when I'm focused... I'm focused. So I've been thinking about a gadget that might help me.
And when Sparkfun showed off a new lilipad-buzzer thingy, it inspired me.
What you see above is the result of this order:
1 - $7.95 - SEN-09376 - Force Sensitive Resistor - Square
1 - $9.95 - DEV-11008 - LilyPad Vibe Board
1 - $24.95 - RTL-09876 - Lithium Polymer USB Charger and Battery
1 - $19.95 - DEV-10274 - LilyPad Arduino Simple Board
Plus some wire, a PN2222 transistor, a couple of resistors, and a bit of solder.
The stuff came yesterday and I whipped this up today, attached it between two pocket sized pieces of cardboard and sat on it.
After 20 minutes, the buzzer goes off until I stand up. If I sit down again before 2 minutes, the buzzer goes off and the count starts over. After standing for 2 minutes, the buzzer goes off briefly to let me know when its OK to sit again.
I should probably add a blink every few seconds (so you know the batter isn't dead) and explore the ATMega328p's sleep capabilities. I'm guessing that cell-phone class battery is over-kill for this application. Actually, the whole gadget could probably be made much more cheaply, but I know I couldn't have made one more quickly.
If this idea counts as intellectual property, then I'm releasing it under a Creative-Commons Share-Alike license. Code available upon request.
BTW, that battery went a week and a half on its first charge with no special power saving code, and only occasionally me remembering to turn it off once in a while.
Summary of the connector pinouts of the Arduino Giga R1. Here also stand the Registers names according to the connector pin names.
I have recently purchased an Arduino microcontroller board. It will run software to control activation of lamps, polling of sensors and the dot matrix display.
At the bottom right you can see my new protoboard which I am usnig to test the lamp controlling circuits. I have already had some partial success. I am really an electronics newbie...
The end view of the front panel showing the daughter board behind the main one. Note also the cut-down LED holder used to space the LEDs away from the board. There were several reasons for this. They aligned the bases of the LEDs and buttons but the gap also gave me some play in their final positions (I knew I was going to need to precisely line them up with holes in the front panel). I was also keen to have a little separation between the LEDs and the solder points since I'd had problems in the past with my less-than-perfect soldering cooking LEDs.