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Phylogeny of the gp120 V2 region in PLVs.The Phylogenetic tree (unrooted, left panel) was constructed based on whole genome nucleotide sequences, using a neighbor-joining method [43] and bootstrapping for 1000 steps. The associated gp120 V2 region sequence alignment was accomplished using the Clustal W program [44]. The twin-cysteine residues are colored red and marked with a red bar, and the conserved tyrosine (Y) in green. The residues are numbered based on the standard system, which uses HXBc2 as a reference [45]. The viral strains used for the phylogenetic tree construction are as follows respectively: HIV-1, AF033819; HIV-2, M30502; SIVcpzANT, U42720; SIVcpzTAN, EF394356; SIVsmm, AF4679.
Workforce Alignment workshop "Building strong partnerships to support Wisconsin’s workforce need." A conversation hosted by UW Oshkosh, Department of Workforce Development, Fox Valley Tech and WAICU.
Shawangunk Grasslands National Wildlife Refuge, January 2025
Mars (left), Jupiter (center left), Venus (right) are easily identifiable; Saturn is below and to the right of Venus; Uranus is very faint, below and to the right of the Pleiades (the blue star cluster up & to the right of Jupiter). Neptune should be to the left of Venus but not visible @14 mm.
Also visible: Orion's belt above the treeline, Aldebaran below Jupiter.
Composite image @14 mm, f/2.8, 10s exposures; lens distortion corrected in PS; Bortle class 4 sky
Harmful Algal Bloom researcher placing the IFCB intake into a sample of fluorescent beads to look at the alignment and focus. Sampling fluorescent beads through the IFCB is one way the team ensures the quality of their sample images and data.
Workforce Alignment workshop "Building strong partnerships to support Wisconsin’s workforce need." A conversation hosted by UW Oshkosh, Department of Workforce Development, Fox Valley Tech and WAICU.
Some creative workers set these concrete blocks in a row along the road. Blocks are very old, so it looks just like some megalithic alignment. It makes me thinking about Breizh land.
At some time in the past, there used to be road here. A segment of the old alignment ends just behind this photograph, and you can see the road in the distance on the other side of the tracks. If that's not enough evidence, the utility poles in line with the road's path are another clue.
This picture represents the idea of rhythm by the alignment of the several flags. When taking this picture I had the idea to mix the idea of rhythm plus the color effect that the flags could provide for my picture, this way I could create a great effect.
The small bright spot to the lower right is Venus. Somewhere near it should be Mars, Jupiter and Uranus in alignment from below left to above right, though I haven't been able to find them.
Another view of clamping scheme. The trick was to still have room to at least tack the 4 corners of the butt joint with the TIG before reducing the number of clamps to have room to MIG the rest of the joint.
The car needs to show "a degree" of self centring for the IVA. This seems a very subjective measurement. How to get this to happen seems to be mainly down to the positive castor angle on the front wheels though camber and Toe also play a part. Everybody has a different method that worked for them but I've gone for neg camber and tow out. Some go for pos camber and toe in. Either way the settings seem different to every production car out there. I've also pumped the tyres up to 32psi vs the 20ish that the car weight demands. This will help lighten the steering though would probably make the front end a little skittish for normal driving.
My DIY four wheel alignment rig follows the well established principle of making a square around the car using fishing line. The important thing is that the line passes through the centre of each wheel hub, is fixed the same distance apart at both ends and is an equal distance from each hub for the same axle. My car has slightly wider track at the back but so long as it's equal both sides front and back, this doesn't matter.
To fix the line at both ends I've used 20mm electrical conduit mounted on some pieces of wood and then clamped them to the bumpers front and back. You can then tension the line by just twisting the conduit. This means my reference is the car itself rather than some imaginary square on the floor (plus given the limited space I'm less likely to trip over the equipment and have to set it all up again).