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What caught my eye in Livingston was the freight yards.
When we arrived the main lines and sidings were empty, but as we wandered round the town, I could hear locomotive whistles sounding.
So, once have shots of the town, I rushed over to the tracks to snap, what was the longest train I have ever soon; three locomotives at the front, three in the middle and two at the end, and inbetween hundred, maybe two hundred oil tankers. All waiting for the road.
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August 18
Time to leave Yellowstone, and such a bitter parting. In four days we have felt right at home, and now are able to find bison/elk/ospreys/butterflies/flowers/geysers and whatever, and enjoy looking at them and the drive to get there. The beauty of the park is sensational, and my words cannot due the place justice. Just thankful it was preserved as it was back in the 19th century when the park was created. And we have it now, as it was, roads, lodges, gas stations notwithstanding, and huge parts of it are too remote for all but the most fearless and dedicated trekkers can get to.
It will take months of processing in our heads to comprehend all what we have seen and done, reviewing the pictures. And remembering all what we have done. Heck, we even managed to be fairly active, despite the altitude which had given us such concerns last week.
We were awake at 6 again this morning, we both have showers, then pack and load the car which seems to have shrunk. But it all fits, in time. And we are off. We have to pay the bill first, of course, and once we had done that, instead of setting off out of the park, we turn right and go round the upper terrace drive of the upper terraces of the Mammoth Falls.
We had been here a day or three ago, and it was crowded, so to go back at just after seven would be splendid, no?
We park at the top, with just one other car there, and in the light of the morning sun, which had just risen about the mountains to the east, shining through the clouds of steam from the terraces. There is a wooden boardwalk to take us further to the edge of the drop, pools reflecting the sky and distant mountains, before the final view is from the side of the falls, with terraces, steps and small waterfalls of boiling water,
The as if by magic, a crowd of camera wielding Japanese tourists appear from nowhere, and the peace and tranquility was broken, as they jostled for the best selfie positions, and selfie sticks were brandished like a sword. I had my shots, so we walked back to the car, along deserted boardwalks again.
One last drive through Mammoth Village, then take the road to the north entrance instead of the Loop Road. The road drops quickly from seven thousand feet to just about five, ears popped, and we passed long lines of cars and RVs making their way up the long steep road into the park.
Sadly, after 5 miles we came to the gate, meaning we were leaving the park for the last time. We hope to return one day that’s for sure, maybe in the winter, if visitors then are allowed at that time of year.
There is a large town outside the gate, Gardner, and we thought we might have breakfast there. Gardner is a OK place, a row of faux western style shops, most selling clothing or providing adventure trips on the rivers in the park. And there was the cafe.
Tables had not been cleared, and the servers had an attitude, but we found a clean table and ordered food and drinks. Jools had biscuits and gravy, as she had seen someone have it the other day and thought it looked OK. But was a disappointment, too much gravy was the verdict. I had eggs with peppers, onions, hash browns, bacon and biscuits. Biscuits are a disappointment to me too. And was served with the worst up of coffee since milky coffee was stopped being served back home. Brown hot water, not improved by cream and sugar.
We walk round the town, at least the frontage looking towards Yellowstone, but there was nothing we needed to buy, so set off for Bozeman, Montana.
The road crossed the Yellowstone River, then followed it along what was called Paradise Valley. Once through the gorge, the valley flattened out, and scrub gave way to farmland, mostly yellowing grass, but some had been watered and looked deep green. The road ran straight for miles on end, with the speed limit of 80mph. We cruised at 50 or 60, enjoying the coolness of the morning as we had the roof down.
We only had a journey of 90 minutes, so we stopped off at the only big town on route, Townsend, Montana, and turned out to be a great decision. For one thing it had a railroad museum, but then I didn’t visit as they had a real live railroad next door, so I could watch freight trains miles long thunder by.
We walk into the town after parking, and found a great collection of buildings, and lots of art shops. Many buildings had old fashioned neon signs still, so I go round snapping them, and some of the shop fronts dating from the 19th century. We visit a great bookshop, and talk long with the owner, then go next door to a coffee shop to make up for the poor one we had earlier. Huckleberry latte with an extra shot, turns out is a king of coffees and worked very well.
We walk back to the railroad tracks and the sound of locomotive whistles were calling, and a freight train that went out of sight down the line was waiting for the road to clear, I sanp the front, the wait for the train to come in from the other direction, and then the one nearest moved off, three locos at the front, three in the middle and two at the end, and the train took 5 minutes to rattle by. Amazing.
Over the road there was a bar, in an old hotel building, whose neon sign had lured me in in the first place. I order a beer then change my mind, so the guy brings me two bears. I could have complained, but accept the two beer and an orange juice for Jools.
We sit at a bench overlooking the street and old station building beyond. There were doors, but these had been pushed back, so we sat with a cool breeze blowing in as I drank to pints of IPA. That meant Jools would have to dive to Bozeman.
By two in the afternoon, it was eighty five in the shade, after driving into town, we find a place to park and walk along the “historic” main street. It was too hot to walk too far, we just needed to find a place not McDonalds or Burger King to have lunch cum dinner.
We find a non-chain place, and order non-burgers, but were served in buns. I have some kind of oriental shrimp in spicy sauce. It was good, even better inside the air-conditioned restaurant.
At three we could check into the hotel, so we drive back to the interstate and next to the junction there it was, a chain, but with big rooms and the most most powerful air conditioning in chrisenden. We binge on the free internet, catching up on the news and for me, facebook updates.
As a treat, we go to the local Walmart as I needed a new watch, so buy a fifteen buck Timex special, I am guessing it will last longer than the bag of shit i paid fifty quid for a few months ago. Walmart is an experience, they sell guns, but you need a permit, which makes it OK.
We also have chocolate, more chocolate and beef jerky. All the food groups. And we laze on the big bed, listening to Radcliffe and Maconie for five hours. Sheer bliss.
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Livingston is a city and the county seat of Park County, Montana, United States.[4] Livingston is located in southwestern Montana, on the Yellowstone River, north of Yellowstone National Park. The population was 7,044 at the 2010 census.
The founding of the small historical railroad and ranching town of Livingston, Montana is a direct result of the Northern Pacific Railway (NPR). This site became a centralized point in the Rockies and the NPR's location for railroad shops to service NPR steam trains before their ascent over the Bozeman Pass, the highest point on the line. Livingston also became the first gateway town to America's first national park, Yellowstone National Park. This is to where the NPR began promoting heavily to visitors from the East. The NPR operated a branch line running some fifty miles south through Paradise Valley to, first the Cinnabar station and later to Gardiner, Montana.
Downstream (the Yellowstone River), approximately 3 miles from present day Livingston, was where an old fisherman named Amos Benson built a log cabin in 1872. This is where a ferry, a trading post and a small community called Benson's Landing was. Across the river from Benson's Landing in June 1882 was the camp of about 40 tents of the Northern Pacific survey crew.This is where they thought that the supply store site they were looking for should be. On July 14, 1882, a man who worked for the Northern Pacific named Joseph J. McBride arrived with orders to find another site to build the store. Two days later on July 16, 1882 George H. Carver, a man who would become a major local businessman and local political leader, arrived at the site of present-day Livingston. Carver and McBride became the first local residents when they pitched their tents on the 16th. Also on the 16th arrived 30 freight wagons drawn by 140 head of oxen, carrying 140,000 lbs. of merchandise. The supply store was to be of Bruns and Kruntz, contractors. Eventually the tents gave away to log cabins. All of Benson's Landing encampment moved up the river to Carver and McBride's camp within 10 days of freight train's arrival.
This new settlement was called "Clark City" after Heman Clark, the principal contractor for the Northern Pacific from the Missouri westward. By fall the town was well established and an election poll in November 1882 counted 348 votes for delegates to congress. Clark City was on the southeast side at the East end of Lewis St. just southwest of the KPRK, and is now part of Livingston. B.F. Downen built the first permanent residence (out of wood) and Frank White owned the first saloon. Clark City eventually had 6 general stores, 2 hotels, 2 restaurants, 2 watchmakers, 2 wholesale liquor dealers, 2 meat markets, 3 blacksmiths, 1 hardware store, 30 saloons and a population of 500 people.
As Clark City was growing nobody realized that the Northern Pacific had marked on their maps a town called Livingston at the same place. The railroad had officially reached Clark City on November 22, 1882. In October 1882 a post office was chartered for Clark City. In November, Livingston received its charter. That was when they decided that Livingston be located a short distance away, and there established a profit of $200,000 for the ones who invested in the surveyed property - those in knowledge of Northern Pacific doings. Then Clark City residents bought lots to the northwest, in Livingston and moved. The birth of Livingston was the death of Clark City. The walking distance between was considerable and Clark City became stream-and-bog urban wildland. Very few buildings still remain.
On December 21, 1882 Livingston was incorporated and originally renamed in honor of Johnston Livingston, pioneer Northern Pacific Railway stockholder, director and friend of Northern Pacific Railroad President Henry Villard. Johnston Livingston was director from 1875–1881 and 1884–1887. Crawford Livingston Jr., Johnston's nephew is who the name Livingston is more commonly credited to. Crawford bought heavily of real estate after the survey, and who on July 17, 1883, established the First National Bank in the city. Often he spoke of Livingston as "his town," and he apparently enjoyed the publicity of supposedly having a city named for him. However the name Livingston has always stood out in the Northern Pacific official family.[5]
Livingston is along the Yellowstone River where it bends from north to east towards Billings and in proximity to Interstate 90. In July 1806 Captain William Clark of the Lewis and Clark Expedition camped on the city's present outskirts on the return trip east preparing to descend the Yellowstone River. Clark's party rejoined the Lewis party at the confluence with the Missouri River, near Williston, North Dakota.
Although a small city, Livingston has a number of popular tourist attractions. The Livingston Depot, built in 1902 after two predecessors, is a restored rail station that today houses a railroad museum open from May through September. The Yellowstone Gateway Museum documents regional history from one of the oldest North American archaeological sites to Wild Western and Yellowstone history. The International Fly Fishing Federation's museum is an extensive introduction to a popular game sport and hosts annual enthusiasts meetings. The city was inhabited for two decades by Calamity Jane and visited by a number of traveling members of European royalty.
In 1938, Dan Bailey, an eastern fly-fisherman, established his Dan Bailey's Fly Shop and mail order fly tying business on Park Street where it still resides today.[6] In Livingston is the Fly Fishing Discovery Center, a museum operated by the Federation of Fly Fishers.[7] Actors Peter Fonda, Margot Kidder, as well as Saturday Night Live alumnus Rich Hall, musician Ron Strykert, novelist Walter Kirn, and poet Jim Harrison live in the city. Jimmy Buffett mentions Livingston in multiple songs.
Its economy is flat, and like the rest of the state, the unemployment rate is below the national average. Almost 50% its workforce commutes to Bozeman,[citation needed] as well as the destination resort Chico Hot Springs twenty-five miles south, and various campsites and ranches in Paradise Valley. Recently, the city has invested in creating attractions and accommodation for tourists visiting during the Lewis and Clark bicentennial years.
Livingston and its immediately adjacent area has 17 sites listed on the National Register of Historic Places, enumerated within Park County's NRHP listings.
It has a sister-city relationship with Naganohara, Japan.
In memory of the men and women of
Cromer who have given their lives
during Military Service since 1945
There is more on the story behind the plaque here:-
www.edp24.co.uk/news/new_plaque_to_honour_cromer_men_kill...
Able Seaman Edgar G Harrison......................................Yangtse River 1949
AB Edgar Harrison was the son of Mr and Mr James Harrison of Roseberry Road on Suffield Park.
The 29-year-old Cromer fishermen served with the Royal Navy for six years, including the second world war, and rejoined for another four years afterwards.
He was killed on April 21 1949 in the Yangtse Incident in China, when his ship, the cruiser HMS London, went to help the frigate HMS Amethyst, which was being shelled by the Chinese People’s Liberation Army in the Yantse river, where it was sailing to (bring) supplies to a British Embassy and found itself caught up in civil war.
www.edp24.co.uk/news/new_plaque_to_honour_cromer_men_kill...
Thursday, 21 April 1949
CHINESE CIVIL WAR, Yangzte River crossed on this date,
The Yangzte Incident.
HMS London, heavy cruiser, Chinese Communist shore gunfire
ARKELL, James H, Leading Seaman, C/JX 804754, killed
ELLWOOD, Arthur W, Able Seaman, C/JX 371567, killed
FOLEY, James P, Able Seaman, D/JX 552734, killed
HARRISON, Edgar G W, Act/Able Seaman, C/JX 174555, killed
JARVIS, Lawrence H V, Marine, CH/X 43488, killed
JONES, Sidney O, Ordinary Seaman, C/SSX 818150, killed
LANE, John C, Ordinary Seaman, C/SSX 815537, killed
PULLIN, William G, Able Seaman, C/JX 319158, killed
ROPER, Alec B, Petty Officer, C/JX 153283, killed
SHELTON, Harry, Able Seaman, C/SSX 818928, killed
STOWERS, Patrick J, Chief Petty Officer Writer, P.MX 59958, killed
WALSINGHAM, Stanley W A, Ordinary Seaman, C/SSX 661463, killed
Saturday, 23 April 1949
HMS London, shore gunfire
WARWICK, Geoffrey G, Ordinary Seaman, C/JX 820226, DOW
Casualties continued into May.
www.naval-history.net/xDKCas1949.htm
Following the grounding of the Amethyst and the shooting up of the Consort in its attempt to rescue her, next into action was the London and the Black Swan.
Down at the mouth of the Yangste, FO 2i/c, Vice-Admiral Madden with his Flag in London, and with Black Swan in company, was on his way to Shanghai for St. George’s Day celebrations, and he decided that on the chance that the action had been an isolated one of trigger-happy Communists, he must make the attempt to reach and relieve Amethyst. During the night Amethyst received a signal ordering her to be in a certain spot more or less where she was anchored, and under way at a certain time next morning, but in fact, the relief force didn’t appear, so some time later they anchored again. London and Black Swan had started up river, Black Swan leading, but had soon run into so much trouble that FO 2i/c had to give up the hope of reaching Amethyst, and they turned and went down river again, receiving even more damage in the process.
www.navyhistory.org.au/hms-amethyst-the-yangtse-incident-...
Towards the end of April 1949, H.M.S. Consort, a destroyer, was at the Chinese city of Nanking acting as guard ship, i.e. looking after the interests of the local British population and if necessary, to provide protection for them. At this time, China was in the middle of a civil war and Communist forces were advancing on a broad front towards the Yangtze River. Before they were to make the crossing, the frigate H.M.S. Amethyst was due to replace the Consort. Amethyst was proceeding up river when Communist gun batteries suddenly fired on her. Severe damage was sustained, making it necessary to come to anchor in the river. Gunfire then stopped. In an attempt to perform a rescue, Consort left Nanking and steamed towards Amethyst, but she also came under attack and, being damaged, had to pass the Amethyst.
Meanwhile, H.M.S. London was visiting the port of Shanghai when a signal was received reporting the above. The ship immediately set sail in company with a frigate, H.M.S. Black Swan into the Yangtze with a view to providing assistance to the Amethyst. Large Union Flags were displayed around the upper deck, but despite our peaceful intentions, we were aware of what had already happened and the ship was prepared for action. The Sick Bay was made ready to receive battle casualties. That evening, a meeting with Consort took place in the river. Her casualties were transported to the London’s sick bay, their injuries treated, then all but one were returned to their ship, which continued down river. This meeting gave us some idea of what was to come.
The next morning passage was continued. My “Action Station” was the upper deck, where I was to perform first aid. This was a very exposed location, apart from the 8” gun turrets, the remaining guns had very little protective armour. Before long the ships became the target of shore based guns of various types. After passing one battery, another would be waiting round the bend in the river. The firing was intense. Our guns returned fire, but our 8” main armament was not designed for such short range combat, and there was little room for the ship to manoeuvre. Heavy damage was sustained and I soon became very busy. Shells were exploding around and behind the gunners and others employed on the upper deck – a thought crossed my mind that shells do not recognise a red cross!
Before Amethyst could be reached, the Captain decided that to proceed further would be suicidal and the order was given to return down stream. Again the gauntlet of shore batteries had to be passed and many gallant deeds were performed. Each man relied upon his shipmates to do his duty efficiently. Many were wounded and for at least the next three days the Sick Berth Staff were kept fully occupied attending to them and there was little sleep.
Fifteen of my shipmates were killed in this action, men who we had been with in the close confines of a ship, for the past 18 months – there was a common bond that increased during the time of danger. At our annual reunion church service, we remember these men.
At 1000 on the 20th April, heavy fire was opened on the Amethyst by the Communists in the vicinity of Rose Island. She was immediately and repeatedly hit on the Bridge and in the Wheelhouse, became out of control and still under heavy fire, grounded on Rose Island. London, wearing the Flag of Vice Admiral Madden, Second in Command, Far East Fleet, received Amethyst’s report at 1100. She was then approaching the Yangtze Entrance Lightship on passage to Shanghai. Lower Deck was cleared, and the situation was explained to the Ship’s Company. Then began the work of preparing the ship for possible action. There was much to be done. The Lovely London was looking her best that morning. Her awnings were spread, her brightwork was shining, her illumination circuits were partly rigged ready for celebrations on St. George’s Day. To strip her for action was a big task, both mental and physical.
We steamed on to Woosung, embarked two Chinese Pilots and Mr. Sudbury, a Whangpoo Pilot who also knew the Yangtze well, and continued up the Yangtze to Kiang Yen where we anchored for the night at 1900. Events had moved during the afternoon, Consort had steamed at full speed from Nanking to Amethyst’s assistance. She too had been heavily fired on, and suffered damage and casualties. She was forced to abandon her attempts to tow Amethyst off and came down to Kiang Yin. She, and Black Swan, who had come down from Shanghai secured alongside us. Both ships were fuelled and our Medical Staff spent a busy night attending to Consort’s wounded.
At 0615 on the 21st April we weighed, steamed 10 miles up the river and anchored again. Black Swan came with us, Consort returned to Shanghai. During the night, Amethyst had managed to get herself off and was now at anchor above Rose Island. All attempts to get in touch with Communist Headquarters had failed. At 1000 the Admiral decided to go up in London and attempt to bring the Amethyst down. Black Swan was to come as far as Beaver lsland and give covering fire if necessary.
Let us be clear on this point. To steam a 10,000-ton Cruiser past determined and well trained shore batteries in confined waters without prolonged and heavy preliminary bombardment is not a sound operation of war. But we were not at war with the Communists; the strength and efficiency of the batteries were not known and there was a good chance that the Communists would have realised their mistake in firing on British warships on the previous day, and would not fire at all. All the chances had been carefully weighed and we were prepared to give as good as we got if the opposition was determined.
At 1026 with the Ship’s Company at Action Stations, we weighed and proceeded up the river at 25 knots. Large Union Jacks had been rigged on the front and sides of the Bridge and on the sides of the Hangars. They flew also from four Yardarms on the foremast and two on the Mainmast. This galaxy of bunting was completed by a large white flag at the Foremast head and an ensign at the peak. There could be no doubt in the mind of any man familiar with the British National Flag or the usage of the White Flag as to the Ship’s Nationality or Peaceful Intentions.
At 1036, ten minutes after we had weighed, fire was opened from the North Bank. We were hit immediately by projectiles of 75 mm and 105 mm calibre. The firing continued for four minutes in spite of heavy and accurate counter-fire from the eight inch, four inch and close range weapons. After passing this battery, there was a lull till 1104 when it started again. Casualties and damage were becoming severe, particularly on the bridges, hangars and four inch Gun Decks. At 1106 a burst on the Bridge wounded the Captain and Officer of the Watch, mortally wounded the Navigating Officer and killed the Chinese Pilot. Damage to instruments and communications on the bridge were severe. We were now 19 miles from Amethyst’s position, the bridge was temporarily out of action and the navigation of the river at high speed from the after conning position and without a Chinese Pilot was clearly impracticable.
It was clear that, in the doubtful event of our reaching Amethyst, the return trip escorting her at slow speed was foredoomed to failure. The time for withdrawal had come and the wheel was put hard-a-starboard. By great good fortune we were between two batteries, neither of which could bear on us while we turned. At 1114 we were safely round and regaining the centre of the Channel and, shortly after this, the bridge was able to take over from the After Conning Position again. Five more actions took place during the passage down the river. Each time the pattern was the same – a burst of fire from the Bank, quickly followed by our return fire. It was not a pleasant action to be in: the range was never more than 1,500 yards and hits were frequent and inevitable. The opposition consisted of 4 in. gun batteries well dug in, but plainly visible on the bank, and of anti-tank weapons of 40 mm calibre which fired high velocity armour piercing shot, which were capable of damaging 8 in. Gunhouse Armour and piercing Turret Trunking. These guns were well camouflaged and impossible to spot and it was they who caused most of our casualties. The last battery ceased fire at 1340. We had been under heavy fire for a total of 48 minutes, spread over a period of three hours. Our casualties were thirteen killed, fourteen seriously wounded and about 45 lightly wounded. Two of the seriously wounded unhappily died later.
It is difficult to assess the damage and casualties inflicted on the opposition, but at least eight direct hits with 8 in. H. E. Shell were obtained on the 4 in. batteries at an average range of 1,500 yards. In addition, 4 in. air bursts and close range direct fire must have caused many casualties in the target area. The Communists themselves admitted two hundred and fifty killed. Altogether we fired 155 rounds of 8 in., 449 rounds of 4 in. and 2,625 rounds of Close Range Ammunition.
Space does not permit the telling of the many stories of good and gallant work by parties and individuals of all departments and in every part of the ship. Nowhere did we find a weak link. The matter is best summed up by the following excerpt from the Captain’s Official Report:
"All damage to the ship was quickly and efficiently dealt with by the Damage Control Parties, whose performance I consider to be outstanding, taking into consideration the difficulty of providing realistic training in these duties.
The bearing and conduct of the Ship’s Company, a large proportion of whom are very young and were experiencing action for the first time, was beyond praise. As an instance, the 4 in. Gun Crews and Supply Parties suffered 38% casualties, who were instantly replaced as they fell. These guns continued in action throughout and fired a total of 449 rounds."
We secured at Holt’s Wharf, Shanghai, that evening. Of the next few days of unremitting work patching the damage and clearing up the debris of battle, some memories stand out. The funeral of the dead from London, Consort and Amethyst at the Hung Jau Cemetery: Shanghai Cathedral packed to the doors for the Memorial Service on the following day: perhaps, above all, we will remember the overwhelming kindness and help of the American Navy in placing their Hospital Ship Repose at our disposal and assisting us in every possible way.
I was able to shoot at the 2025 Your Voices Heard fashion show and fund raiser for domestic abuse victims. Good cause, lovely event, and a nice venue. Only drawbacks were the very harsh lighting and high temperatures - it was in the high 90s and everyone was sweating. I knew a few models but most were new to me - and what a lovely bunch of people!
These photos are from the Friday rehearsals. There were several rehearsals on Saturday before the actual show.
Trump National Doral Miami
-- The Kaskel Years --
Immigrating from Poland in the 1920's, Alfred L. Kaskel (1901–1968) used his skills to open in the Coney Island neighborhood a small building supplies store which led to early opportunities as a building contractor. Kaskel saved his money and was able to build his first apartment building on Parkside Avenue in Brooklyn. By the age of 30 he was a millionaire. He reinvested the profits and rose to prominence in New York City real estate in the postwar period - as did Donald Trump's father, Fred Trump and Sam Lefrak - by securing low cost government loans to build housing for returning GIs. Kaskel realized the potential for affordable housing in New York City and developed apartments in Forest Hills-Kew Gardens-Rego Park, Queens. In 1945 Kaskel bought the Belmont Plaza Hotel on Lexington and 49th Street - which marked his beginning of a rapid acceleration into the hotel real estate. Kaskel (Carol Management named after his daughter Carole) bought Coney Island's famed Half Moon Hotel for $900,000 in 1947. Kaskel sold the hotel in 1949 for $1,000,000 to the Harbor Hospital of Brooklyn.
By 1958 Kaskel was a part time resident of Miami and built the Carillon, a 620 room palace designed by Norman Giller, the celebrated “father” of Miami Modern (MiMo) architecture at Collins and 68th. The Carillon epitomized resort culture in Miami Beach. In 1959, it was voted Miami Beach’s “Hotel of the Year.” A glamorous night spot, the Carillon became known during the 1960s for its famous guests, lavish parties, cabaret shows, and big-name entertainment. Kaskel enjoyed golf - it led him to the swampland west of the Miami Airport and the Doral Country Club. Alfred and Doris Kaskel purchased 2,400 acres of swampland between NW 36 Street and NW 74 Street and from NW 79 Avenue to NW 117 Avenue for about $49,000 with the intention of building a golf course and hotel. At that time there was no paved road to the property. Kaskel's wife and daughter thought he was crazy to purchase the property and called it "Kaskel's folly". In 1962, the Kaskel's dream came true when they opened a hotel and country club that featured the Blue, Red and Par 3 golf courses. They named it Doral - a combination of Alfred and Doris. The Doral was the most luxurious resort constructed in South Florida since the Miami Biltmore in Coral Gables opened in the 1920's. The Doral Country Club was built for $10 million by Kaskel's family owned real estate firm, Carol Management. The Doral golf concept was to build multiple golf courses with a central country club, dining, meeting facilities and lodge rooms and reserve the fairway views for future house, condo and apartment buildings. In 1963 Kaskel also opened the 420- room Doral-on-Ocean - as the sister hotel to the Doral Country Club. The Doral Beach Hotel was long considered the most elegant and luxurious hotel in the area. It won several Mobil Five Star awards. It was said Kaskel did not have a mortgage on the Carillon Hotel, Doral Beach of the Doral Country Club - all funded by the thousands of apartment houses he owned in New York City.
Kaskel hired Louis Sibbett "Dick" Wilson and his assistants Joe Lee and Bob Hagge (Robert von Hagge) to design Doral's two regulation length golf courses plus a par-3 course. Wilson was the architect for Bay Hill in Orlando and La Costa in Carlsbad, CA. Since much of the land was swamp Mr. Hagge excavated enough land to route fairways through the water infested terrain just as Kaskel had requested. The intention was to use existing water as an ever-present hazard compensating for the very flat landscape. In May, 1963 construction began on the White Course, for the Doral complex, but it needed dirt, and so the lakes were dredged and enlarged on the Blue course from 60 acres to 75 acres. Kaskel hired Bob Hagge to design the White course. As a result of the building of the new White course, the par-3 course was redesigned since they were both located on the same parcel of land. On January 20, 1966 the Doral Country Club White Course opened and in December 1966 the redesigned Par 3 course reopened. Since the Blue Course had been renamed the Blue Monster, the other courses were renamed as well. The Red Course was renamed the Red Tiger, as Jackie Gleason once called the course. The White Course became known as the White Wonder, and the Par-3 Course became known as the Green Course or the Green Hornet. In 1968, Robert von Hagge and Bruce Devlin were hired to build the fifth course at the Doral Country Club - the Gold Course. In January, 1970 the Gold Course opened for business and received the moniker of Bachelor's Gold.
Kaskel put up a large purse to attract a PGA event at Doral in 1962. The tournament was held on the Blue Course and was named the Doral Country Club Open Invitational. Billy Casper was the inaugural winner of the Doral tournament. For that triumph, Casper earned $9,000 of the $50,000 purse. After watching the professionals struggle on the Blue Course, the tournament director Frank Strafaci gave the Blue Course the nickname 'The Blue Monster' which stuck. Doral's Touring Golf Pro for many years was Seve Ballesteros.
By 1978 the Kaskel family had grown the Doral brand to 8 hotels including in NYC: Doral Tuscany (now the St Giles Tuscany), Doral Park Avenue (now the Iberostar), Doral Court (now the St. Giles The Court) and the Doral Inn (originally the Belmont Plaza and the former W Flagship hotel now the Maxwell). In 1987, a spa wing was added to the Doral Country Club's hotel and the facility was renamed as the Doral Golf Resort and Spa. Prior to its renovation, the 800 acre complex was reported to feature "four golf courses; 700 hotel rooms across 10 lodges; more than 86,000-square-foot of meeting space, including a 25,000-square-foot ballroom; a 50,000-square-foot spa with 33 treatment rooms; six food and beverage outlets; extensive retail; and a private members' clubhouse.
--- The next five owners - KSL, CNL, Morgan Stanley, Paulson & Co. and Donald J. Trump ---
In 1994, the Kaskel family (Carol Management) sold the resort to KSL Recreation, a Kohlberg Kravis Roberts affiliate focused on premier golf facilities, for approximately $100 million. KSL Recreation was formed in 1992 (Henry Kravis, Michael Shannon and Larry Lichliter) as a portfolio company of Kohlberg Kravis Roberts & Co. KSL investors include public and private pensions and high net worth individuals. KSL appointed Hans Turnovszky as the new general manager. KSL planned a $30 million renovation. Starwood Capital was another interested buyer. The renovation included the remodel of ground floor restaurants (Terraza and Champions Sports Bar and Grill), all rooms and the 4 golf courses.
By 1995 the 4 courses (Blue Monster, Gold, White and Red) at Doral were frayed around the edges after some years of neglect. The Blue Monster was dropped off Golf Digest's list of the best 100 courses in 1993. In an effort to update the Blue Monster's difficulty in relation to changes in golf technology and skill, KSL contracted Ray Floyd to renovate the course in 1995. Floyd added and enlarged the already numerous bunkers narrowing many landing areas from the tee. The course was challenging under ideal conditions, but in normal tradewinds the alterations proved too penal and very unpopular. In 1999 Jim McLean, the Doral golf instructor, was asked to take the edges off Floyd's modifications.
In 1999 KSL sold 36 acres next to the Doral's golf courses to Marriott Vacation Club International for 240 timeshare villas. The sale marks the first time the Doral's owner, KSL Hotel Corp., relinquished a part of its property, said Joel Paige, KSL president and general manager of the Doral Golf Resort & Spa. KSL has agreed to let Marriott feed off the Doral's amenities by granting timeshare owners the same 40 percent discount and preferred access as guests at KSL's 700-room hotel. That includes the spa, golf courses, tennis courts.
In 2004 CNL acquired KSL for $1.366 billion and debt of $794 million for total acquisition cost of $2.16 billion. The resort portfolio of six included: 692-room Doral Golf Resort & Spa in Miami, Florida, 780-room Grand Wailea Resort & Spa on Maui, Hawaii, 796-room La Quinta Resort & Club and PGA West in La Quinta, California, 738-room Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa in Phoenix, Arizona, 279-room Claremont Resort & Spa in Berkeley, California, 246-room Lake Lanier Islands Resort near Atlanta, Georgia. CNL placed the Doral resort under the management of Marriott International and renamed the property the Doral Golf Resort and Spa, a Marriott Resort. CNL said it would spend $40 million over the next three years on capital improvements at the Doral.
In 2007, CNL Hotels was acquired by the real estate arm of Morgan Stanley. The Doral was included in the portfolio of 8 resorts acquired by Morgan Stanley Real Estate for a total transaction cost of $6.6 billion. Michael Franco, the managing director of Morgan Stanley Real Estate said the resorts are extremely hard to replicate and will show excellent future growth from increased corporate group travel and leisure traveler markets.
In 2009, Doral's Silver Course was redesigned by Jim McLean and the course was renamed as the Doral Golf Resort & Spa - Jim McLean Signature Course.
In 2011, a group of creditors led by hedge fund giant Paulson & Co. seized control of the Doral and seven other properties from Morgan Stanley real estate funds. Morgan Stanley could not handle a $1 billion bond payment coming due. They quickly placed the Doral under Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection, and began seeking a buyer for the Doral. By selling Doral now the Paulson-led owners can use the cash to pay down debts and avoid making overdue capital expenditures of updating the property.
Donald Trump announced in October 2011 that he would buy Doral for $150 million and invest more than the purchase price to restore the property and make Doral great again. When asked what the renovation budget would be Trump has said "unlimited" which publicly became $250 million. The renovations were financed with $125 million in loans from Deutsche Bank. The Trump Organization's hotel management unit, Trump Hotel Collection, took over Doral's management in June 2012. Donald Trrump's daughter Ivanka took charge of the 700 guest rooms' redesign featuring Ivanka's "stylish palette of elegant neutrals, including ivory, champagne and caramel - accentuated with mahogany veneers and gold leaf Spanish revival details". Ivanka introduced her own brand synonymous with quality, elegance, and sophistication into every aspect; from the imported Austrian crystal chandeliers to the handmade Italian bed linens. The rooms were made over in to luxury suites that include massive marble baths with European styled whirlpools. All existing restaurants were gutted and a classic five-star "gourmet stunner" opened - BLT Prime.
Doral Golf Resort & Spa was renamed Trump National Doral Miami. The Blue Monster course was renovated by Gil Hanse and Jim Wagner and reopened in December 2013. After a Hanse/Wagner renovation, the Silver Fox course reopened in December 2014. The White Course was closed in January, 2015. The Red Tiger course reopened on January 12, 2015 and the Golden Palm course reopened in September 2015 after the Hanse/Wagner renovations.
The Blue Monster played host to the Doral Open on the PGA Tour from 1962 to 2006, and from 2007 to 2016 the WGC-Cadillac Championship made its home there. In 2016, it was announced that the tournament would be moved to Mexico City. In 2017 Rick Smith, best known as Phil Mickelson's former swing coach, replaced Jim McLean as the lead instructor at Trump National Doral Miami. McLean, a fixture at Doral through five owners and 26 years, moved his golf school to the nearby Biltmore Miami Hotel, where ownership has promised significant upgrades to its existing practice facilities. McLean called the move to Coral Gables "bittersweet."
Trump has been the target of dozens of liens from contractors who worked on the renovation project. On May 20, 2016, a Miami-Dade County Circuit Court judge ordered Trump National Doral Miami to be foreclosed and sold on June 28 unless the Trump Organization paid $32,800 to a Miami paint supply company. A 6-foot high portrait of Donald Trump hanging in the Champions Bar became controversial when it was reported to be purchased for $10,000 with funds from the non-profit Trump Foundation. The resort has challenged the local property tax assessments every year. In May 2019 it was reported the resort was in "steep decline" financially, in which its net operating income had fallen by 69 percent – from $13.8 million in 2015 to $4.3 million two years later.
David Feder has served as Vice President and Managing Director of Trump National Doral from 2014 to present. He previously presided over the Boca Resort and Club, Fairmont Turnberry Isle and the Arizona Biltmore. Paige Koerbel managed Doral in 2010 when it was operated by Marriott International and was there during the Trump acquisition. Joel Paige served as KSL's General Manager at Doral from 1995 to 2001. Paige is now the Chief Operating Officer at Kingsmill Resort in Williamsburg, Va.
Photos and text compiled by Dick Johnson
richardlloydjohnson@hotmail.com
From the date, you will be able to tell that I made another trip up north yesterday to visit the seals. I did take more photographs (I actualy filled a 4GB card), but it was even more interesting observing some of the behaviors of these mammals.
The young one you see here was on shore about twenty feet from the water's edge crying plaintively. You would think from the racket he was making that he had lost his mother. (I have a video of that ... albeit only on the old Kodak 7430 that I used to use when I first uploaded photographs to Flickr. I might upload it later so you can hear what they sound like). Actually though, his mother was offshore fishing. When I happened to turn around, I could see her in the surf. It was quite windy there again and large waves were rolling in onshore. She used to stop, push herself straight up in the water and look in at him. He made his way down to the water's edge, crying as he went, and entered the water. Mama then swam in and joined him, took him out a ways, then brought him back and lay on the bottom, half in and half out of the water, turned over and let him suckle. The waves would splash over them. Both days I was there, seeing the young ones suckle was a common sight ... but they were onshore at the time. This was the first time I had seen it happen while they were both in the water.
This mother was not the only one fishing in the waters just offshore. It was quite rough, as I mentioned, but I managed to get a few shots of them in the water. They appeared to lie on their backs with their head underwater. Because of their eye placement, I guess that position made it easier for them to see what was underneath them.
Another thing I noticed, a whitecoat attempted to suckle from a female that obviously wasn't his mother. She really roughed him up ... bit at him, and half rolled on top of him and drove him away. Some of these pups really have lost their mothers, I believe. I actually saw one large mammal dead on the rocks. When I took a walk along the beach, I saw another whitecoat near another mother and her pup. He looked much smaller than the others and had a large reddish-orange spot on his back. I assume he had been trying the same thing but had paid much more dearly for it. All very interesting.
There are still quite a few of them there but not nearly as many as the first day I was there. The ice they came in on has really melted quite a lot, too.
Harper's Weekly May 19, 1906
The Human Drama at San Francisco
The Long Day
The Eighteenth of April in San Francisco
by Cecil Chard
“It is extraordinary how cheerfully we are all accepting the inevitable. Millionaires, shop girls, day laborers, Chinamen — we stand and receive rations. For the time being, we are at city of beggars, but food is plentiful, and now we are able to procure drinking water.” —from the author’s letter
Morning
We had been to the opera the night before to hear Caruso and Fremstad in “Carmen”. The audience was a brilliant one, the Grand Opera House crowded to the roof. We saw familiar faces everywhere and smiled in greeting, with a careless assurance of seeing them all again, on the morrow perhaps. After the opera, we went to the Palm Garden of the Palace Hotel, and lingered over our ices, comparing Fremstad to Calve, with a deep earnestness which we waste upon immaterial things. Then we strolled homeward through the silent streets, commenting on the quiet, star lit beauty of the night, and finally we dropped to sleep with the haunting measures of Bizet’s music in our ears.
There was no beginning to the tragedy. Peaceful slumber was exchanged, by a process too swift for thought, for chaos. One instance of rigid suspense, the struggle of a dreamer in the grip of a horrible nightmare, and then a leap to consciousness, the fierce realization of danger. A thunderous roar is in the ears, so deafening that it is hard to distinguish the crash of furniture, the fall of pictures from the wall; there is a sickening duration of motion, walls, floor, ceiling rock and sway. Everything that a moment before had been inert and motionless is suddenly possessed with hideous life. Books are flying forward from the shelves, plaster fills the air, the chandeliers twist and drop, a piano moves across a wide space with a jingle of notes. In every familiar objects is the threat of death. Fear is the only sensation left in the universe that wheels and shakes like a storm tossed vessel. And escape to the street seems for a moment beyond the wildest hope! Over fallen furniture we go, bare feet cut by splintered glass, hammering at doors that resist, to the rooms from which the best beloved must be dragged, half fainting or paralyzed with fright – and down, down, out of the house.
To gain the street is only to encounter new perils. Here, too, instantaneous terror springs to life. A dreadful grimace controls the familiar faces of the little world we know. Safety is nowhere. It is raining bricks and chimneys, the towers of St. Dominic’s are swaying against the high blue of the sky. The next Instant the air is thick with the dust of flying fragments. We see is each other and run, blindly, madly, but the ground under our feet rises up, the great paving blocks sink – a little low building to which we would go for shelter slides back a foot. Three blocks away, up the steep hills, is a public park, and here at last we pause and take a refuge, a crowd of panic stricken, breathless, speechless people. We wait for a few minutes and unspeakable dread for what may come next. Renewed shock sends us higher up, and at last we relax and stand trembling in the chill morning air.
As in all instances even have terrible tragedy, the moment is not without its humor, grotesque and grim. People have sprung from their beds, they have seized anything in their wild flight; they stand in excited groups as unconscious as children of their remarkable appearance. One woman has had the sleeve of her night dress torn from her shoulder, her feet are bare, she describes her experiences to a group of men. She is quite evidently a woman of refinement, her gestures are quiet, her voice is sweet, she is quite self-possessed. We stand close together, a group of absolute strangers, and smile at each other in attempted courage, with stiff lips. The world stands still again, all that is left of that familiar world, but all sense of security is gone.
From the high hill on which we stand we can see the splendid city stretching to the foothills, and we try to reassure ourselves but sick despair grips us. The sky is dun-colored, and through a pile of smoke and dust the sun burns red.
The city looks like a besieged town, shattered by shot and shell. Is that the dome of City Hall we see, hanging like a birdcage over the fallen walls. What has happened to that row of houses one street below us? Their brick foundations are cracked in every direction, the empty window frames sling crookedly against beams that have snapped off short. Here are a roof has fallen in, there the side of a house hangs into the street; a flight of granite steps stands far out into the sidewalk, the door to which they once led has sunk 5 feet below. The spaces between the houses is a tangle of twisted wires of tipsy telegraph poles.
And what a strange light is everywhere – sunlight through a yellow haze, a heavy mist. – And below us – is it mist or steam that rises thick and curiously dark as from a huge cauldron. Now the sun is obscured, the distance is blotted out, and the black mist moves, rises – something leaps up, shines like a sword blade. From someone in our little crowd comes one word in an awed whisper: “Fire!”
Noon
The morning has gone, somehow the interminable hours have dragged away. The air is stifling, the heat intense, but, mercifully, there is no wind. At the merest breath of air we shudder and turn our eyes to the curtain of smoke that hangs across the sky and hides from us the extent of our misfortune. Nevertheless, realization of the magnitude of the disaster deepens from hour to hour. We know that the fire rages in twenty places, that men are fighting it desperately without the water for which we already thirst.
With every moment some new peril is revealed. The live wires of the trolley lines have dropped into the street, there is a penetrating odor of escaping gas. A man clatters by on horseback, shouting: “martial law has been declared – the regulars are out; light no fires in the houses – by order of General Funston.”
From the first hour there has been no water. There is a run on bakers and groceries for provisions — bread — candles, tinned meet, soda water. The men serve their customers on floors swimming with oil, tomato catsup, wine, and broken glass. They do not ask exorbitant prices. In many cases they give without demanding payment. Instances of extortion are rare except for conveyances with which to remove invalids and household effects from the region of greatest danger.
It is incredible with what swiftness rumors become facts, and still time creeps along on leaden feet, though occurrences multiply and the experiences of a lifetime are crowded into an hour. We have eaten nothing since the night before, but we know no sensation of hunger. The fate of those who are nearest and dearest is still shrouded in darkness. There is no way to discover it – we are cut off from the world!
When from time to time a smoke-blackened figure approaches it is only to report further calamity. This or that public building is gone, one street after another destroyed; now the fire has engulfed a whole section. Soldiers and firemen, millionaires and thieves are fighting desperately. Every now and then there is a terrific explosion. They are blowing up whole blocks with dynamite in the vain hope of saving the city.
The most extraordinary factor in this unprecedented experience is a general calmness, the self-control exhibited. Perhaps the earthquake has exhausted her powers of sensation. Faces show the strain, but there is no complaint. The lesson has been too soul-searching in it’s effect. All have learned the value of mere possessions. They strive to save them instinctively, but failing, they hear with entire composure, that fortune, home, factory, offices, have been swept away. The streets grow more and more crowded as the fire drives the refugees to the hills. A never ending stream of vehicles passes, motors flash by, carriages, express wagons, undertakers’ wagons, and ice carts laden with people and their hastily snatched belongings rumble on. It is pitiable to see solitary old women tottering along under loads that would not tax the strength of a child. Women in opera cloaks drag trunks along the earthquake torn pavements. Bands of Chinese, dazed and helpless, drift along aimlessly. It is incredible what foolish things people have seized and still cling too. It is related that in the fall of the Emporium, a huge structure on Market Street, a man was only held back by force from the blazing ruins. He struggled in the arms of his captors, protesting that he had lost his hat, that he must find his hat. One woman has a large birdcage from which the birds have flown. Whole families pass, in one instance a pet donkey is being led along, free from burden, while even the child in arms clutches a handkerchief of treasures.
The unfortunate have lost their wits. The ring of the ambulance bells and the toot of the automobiles that have been impressed into the service of the Red Cross hardly scatter the crowds, that move on, talking, gesticulating, in wildest excitement. There is little to be done, but that little is accomplished with immense risk and difficulty. Every nerve, every sense is strained for the latest word from those who return, like exhausted soldiers from the front. When will this refuge be declared unsafe, when will we be compelled to move on. The stories that are whispered in low tones, so that the general multitude may not be made more anxious, are harrowing. Stories of women wandering into the ruins, clasping dead children in their arms, of men gone mad, a fireman crushed, of sick and wounded crushed under falling walls, stories of soldiers who have exceeded their orders, of unfortunate civilians who, upon a refusal to leave their treasures, have been shot. They tell, too, of the swift retribution that overtakes those who, under the cover of the prevailing excitement, attempt to rob, to loot, or even to touch the possessions of others. In one place the bodies of a thieves lie where the bullets have dropped them.
And as the sun sank slowly in the west the huge clouds of smoke that all day had obscured the scene, changed to rose color, and, in the reversal of all things, the day that had been darkened by the smoke was exchanged gradually for the wild illumination of the night.
Night
The terraced hillside park had the look of a bivouac. Nondescript shelters, made of blankets, of tablecloths, spread on broom sticks, of women’s opera wraps, of valuable Indian rugs protected those who were fortunate enough to have them. Many had covers and pillows, those who had nothing lay on the ground, or on the broad stone steps along the park walkways. There was not a murmur to be heard, only a child wailed loudly for a forgotten doll. Speculation, even, had given way to a stoical indifference. People spoke little, in low tones. The stillness was acute. Overawed by the terrible magnificence of the spectacle being enacted in the east and along the whole plain to the southern horizon, it was, strangely enough, possible for one to think, to form plans, even to hope– while the work of wholesale annihilation went on.
Nature now and then indulges in pure melodrama. A sea of liquid fire lay beneath us, the sky above it seemed to burn at white heat, deepening into gold, into orange, spreading into a fierce glare. The smoke and gathered into one gigantic cloud that hung motionless, sharply outlined against a vast field of exquisite starry blue. The streets were caverns of darkness, but here in there, from the impenetrable gloom, three or four houses seem to start out, like an illuminated card every cornice, every window shining with reflected blaze.
And as the night advanced it grew cold, and men and women walked up and down between the lines of sleepers, stretching their stiff limbs. Even at midnight, the attempt to sleep was abandoned. Eyes, bloodshot, with weariness and the pain from the constant rain of cinders, tried to turn away from the fire, but it held them with dreadful fascination. How it slipped in and out, flowing like a river, engulfing here a church, there a block of houses! A steeple, flaring high like a torch, toppled and fell in a shower of sparks. The strong square of an office building, black one instant against that ever moving stream of fire, flush the next, shot through and through with flame.
The fire burned on and destroyed and blackened, but it kindled a flame that illuminated the Western world —the spark of a generous kindness that lives in the hearts of the multitude. This is been fanned into a fire at which the victims of this great disaster may find warmth and renewed courage. Hope remains and an undaunted spirit. The eyes that have watched ceaselessly through the night look out over a field of desolation, and, without flinching, face the dawn of another day.
Not really able to do what I hoped with these stereotypes of our friend Domenico MASTROIANNI. The picture is not easy, if I do not contrast a minimum one sees nothing but it darkens the small group with ready jars on the left that linger. At the extreme of the image, the white and surely divine brightness prevents me from too contrasting!
Hey, I’m just a mortal me!
Mastroianni dropped on the donkey!
Or it is the donkey aware of its importance that has given itself an Arab standard approach by raising the leg so high... In the photo on the left, you can see a few centimeters of the workshop.
I find the girl in the foreground right side signature badly disproportionate, a little too small...
“Those who love chastise well”
Qui bene amat, bene castigat.
www.flickr.com/photos/anaglyphepeppin/albums/721577138734...
Pas vraiment pu faire ce que j’espérais avec ces stéréovues de notre ami Domenico MASTROIANNI. L’image n’est pas facile, si je ne contraste pas un minimum on ne voit rien mais il assombrit le petit groupe avec des jarres prêts à gauche qui s’attardent. A l’extrême de l’image, la luminosité blanche et sûrement divine m’empêche de trop contraster !
Hé, je suis juste un mortel moi!
Mastroianni c'est lâché sur l’âne!
Ou bien c’est l’âne conscient de son importance qui s’est donné une approche d étalon arabe en levant la patte si haut... Sur la photo de gauche, vous pouvez voir quelques centimètres de l’atelier.
Je trouve la fille au premier plan côté droit signature mal disproportionnée, un peu trop petite...
Qui bene amat, bene castigat.
Stem cell therapy is an advanced and beneficial treatment for diabetes, numerous patients with diabetes have shown noticeable improvement, long-time remission and were able to enjoy a high quality of life after the therapy in SQ1 stem cell medical center.
The Beneficial Effects Of Stem Cell Therapy On Diabetes
Stem cell therapy can improve pancreatic islets function, hepatic glucose, and lipid metabolism while lowering blood sugar.
Clinical research and applications have shown that through stem cell therapy, about 65% of the patients are no longer dependent on insulin or oral drug to treat diabetes, and over 90% of patients reported reduced a dosage of insulin or oral drug or changed from insulin injection to oral drug. Collectively, stem cell therapy greatly diminished the onset and development of diabetes complications.
The era of clinical stem cell therapy for diabetes has come!
Reduction of diabetes medication intake
Maintenance of normal blood sugar levels
Restoration of the sensitivity of peripheral tissue to insulin and increase of insulin levels
Prevention and improvement of related diabetic foot symptoms
Reduction of hepatocyte lipid-related lesions
Improvement in the condition of the arterial walls and reduction of hyperinsulinemia and atherosclerosis
Prevention or reversion of certain complications of diabetes, such as erectile dysfunction and vision loss
Diabetes-Related Diseases That Stem Cell Therapy Can Treat
Type 1 diabetes
Type 2 diabetes
Stem cell therapy also can treat complications of diabetes including:
Diabetic foot: foot infections, ulcers, and deep layer tissue damage.
Diabetic retinopathy: it can cause blurred vision, decreased vision, and even blindness.
Diabetic cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases: it can cause a cerebral infarction, cerebral hemorrhage, vascular dementia, etc.
Diabetic neuropathy: it can cause numbness and tingle in hands and feet, orthostatic hypotension, vomiting, urinary, and fecal incontinence, etc.
Diabetic nephropathy(chronic renal failure): it can cause foamy urine, edema, and renal failure.
Capillary and macrovascular complications: diabetes can lead to narrowing of lower extremity arteries, coronary heart disease, stroke, etc.
In 2019, the famous US news magazine “TIME” listed diabetes treatment with stem cell therapy as one of the top 10 innovative medical inventions that will change the future. In the year 2021, Mass General Brigham selected the ground-breaking “stem cell therapies for Diabetes” as one of the Top 12 “Disruptive gene and cell therapy technologies”.
Learn More About Diabetes
Diabetes is a metabolic disorder disease characterized by hyperglycemia(high blood sugar), it is also the third-largest non-infectious chronic disease following cancer and cardiovascular disease. There are approximately 537 million diabetes patients in the world by the year 2021.
Clinically, there are three main types of diabetes: type 1, type 2, and gestational diabetes (diabetes while pregnant). The major incidence populations of type 1 diabetes are adolescents and children, it is recognized by the destruction of pancreatic β-cells which leads to insufficient insulin secretion and hyperglycemia. Type 2 diabetes is caused by genetic, and environmental factors and their interactions. Usually, it is characterized by malfunction of pancreatic β-cell and insulin resistance in cells. Gestational diabetes develops in pregnant women who have never had diabetes before. If you have gestational diabetes, your baby could be at higher risk for health problems. Your baby is more likely to have obesity as a child or teen, and more likely to develop type 2 diabetes later in life too.
Risk Factors For Type 2 Diabetes
Type 2 diabetes is believed to have a strong genetic link, meaning that it tends to run in families. If you have a parent, brother, or sister who has it, your chances rise.
You should ask your doctor about a diabetes test when you have any of the following risk factors:
High blood pressure.
High blood triglyceride (fat) levels. It's too high if it's over 150 milligrams per deciliter (mg/dL).
Low "good" cholesterol level. It's too low if it's less than 40 mg/dL.
Gestational diabetes or giving birth to a baby weighing more than 9 pounds.
Prediabetes. That means your blood sugar level is above normal, but you don't have the disease yet.
Heart disease.
High-fat and carbohydrate diet. This can sometimes be the result of food insecurity when you don’t have access to enough healthy food.
High alcohol intake.
Sedentary lifestyle.
Obesity or being overweight.
Polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS).
Being of ethnicity that’s at higher risk: African Americans, Native Americans, Hispanic Americans, and Asian Americans are more likely to get type 2 diabetes than non-Hispanic whites.
You're over 45 years of age. Older age is a significant risk factor for type 2 diabetes. The risk of type 2 diabetes begins to rise significantly around age 45 and rises considerably after age 65.
You’ve had an organ transplant. After an organ transplant, you need to take drugs for the rest of your life so your body doesn’t reject the donor. organ. These drugs help organ transplants succeed, but many of them, such as tacrolimus (Astagraf, Prograf) or steroids, can cause diabetes or make it worse.
Clinical Symptoms Of Diabetes
Polyuia
Dry mouth and increased thirst
Strong appetite
Unexplained Weight loss
Fatigue
Obesity
Presence of glucose in urine
Presence of ketones in urine
Abnormal high amount of glycosylated hemoglobin (HbA1c) in serum
Glycated serum protein abnormality
Abnormal amount of insulin and c-peptide in serum
Dyslipidemia(unhealthy level of blood fat)
Stem Cell Therapy For Diabetes At SQ1
Stem cells used in the treatment of diabetes
SQ1 provides access to treatment that utilizes mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) isolated from the cord blood, placenta, and/or peripheral blood of patients and embryonic stem cells (hESCs) and induced pluripotent stem cells (hiPSCs), into pancreatic endocrine lineages.
A combination MSCs and hESCs delivered via the intravenous route for 30 minutes at a delivery rate of 40 mL/hour to a final dose of 1 × 106 cells/kg of the patient's body weight.
The combination of cells and other treatment details are individual to the patient and is determined by genetically-programmed factors, individual to every human.
The therapeutic scope and efficacy of stem cell therapy for diabetes
A double infusion of hESCs+MSCs through either the intravenous route or the dorsal pancreatic artery route is performed for patients with type 2 Diabetes. The therapy exhibited term efficacy (7-9 months) in patients with type 2 diabetes for less than 10 years (the longest period of remission registered to date is 10 years and the shortest – 2 years) and a BMI <23 kg/m2 and improvement in hyperglycemia, reported blood glucose levels within the normal range.
Our results revealed reductions in the HbA1c and FBG levels during the first 3 months after administration in patients with type 2 Diabetes, deemed clinically significant because the reduction was maintained in a normal range at 12 months after administration.
Factors determining the efficacy of the treatment and remission term are individual and genetically driven.
Advantages Of Stem Cell Treatment For Diabetes
Traditional therapeutic methods, such as daily medication or injections of exogenous insulin, are the most common diabetes treatment, but their use is frequently associated with failure of glucose metabolism control, which leads to hyperglycemia episodes.
Stem cell therapy is a promising strategy for avoiding the problems associated with daily insulin injections. To maintain glucose homeostasis, this therapeutic method is expected to produce, store, and supply insulin. To completely cure diabetes, cell-based therapies aim to produce functional insulin-secreting cells.
Stem cell therapy
Conventional treatment
Curative Treatment or diseases management
The stem cell is a curative treatment for diabetes. Stem cell therapy is designed to rejuvenate the pancreas which helps the body to produce insulin naturally.
If given in the early stages, the dependency on medication and insulin can be reversed.
Insulin and medicine are used to control the amount of glucose in your blood. It is not a cure treatment it is used to control diabetes.
Slowly and gradually, people on medication move to insulin dependency.
Dosage
Stem cell therapy reduces the dosages of medication and insulin as the body starts producing insulin naturally.
If given in the early stages, the dependency on medication and insulin can be reversed.
Stem cell experts based on your current level of disease and other comorbidities will design a customized protocol and decide, the number of stem cells, source of stem cells, and cycles of stem cell therapy.
Patients who are on medication will observe a slow and gradual increase in dosages of medication.
At a certain point in time when medication is not able to manage the sugar levels, external insulin support will be required.
Patients who are on insulin support need to take insulin daily before consumption of food. The doses of insulin also increase with time.
Side-effects
No Side-effects as stem cells are our cells that are used to treat the disease and regenerate the pancreas to regain proper functioning.
Some of the common side-effects that medication and insulin can develop are upset stomach, skin rash or itching, weight gain, tiredness, and if not taken properly can even low blood sugar extremely.
Convenience
Stem cell therapy is performed by stem cell specialists which requires a special laboratory to process the stem cells and the medical set up to extract and inject the stem cell.
The therapy is going to be injection-based and needs to be performed in a hospital.
Medication that can be easily consumed.
Repeated and multiple small pricks for insulin injection for the patients who are currently on insulin.
The strict discipline to take medication or insulin on time as prescribed.
Longevity
Long-term effect and possibly curative treatment which removes the dependency on insulin and medication if taken in the early stage.
If taken in the later stages it reduces your dependency on medication and insulin. In a few cases, a repeat cycle may also be required.
Short-term effects.
Need to take insulin and medication daily as prescribed and the medication and effectiveness are for a few hours or a day.
The patient needs to take the medication and insulin lifetime.
End-stage
Stem cells are the basic building block of our body. The main functionality of stem cells is to regenerate the damaged cells and make copies of their own cells to repair the damaged cells.
Your own body is healing you and deferring the need for a transplant.
A pancreas transplant is the only treatment in the end stage.
There is a high probability that the kidney might also be damaged due to diabetes so in some cases both kidney and pancreas transplants would be required.
The availability of the donor and the waiting period can be a big reason for worry.
How Can Stem Cell Therapy For Diabetes Work
Stem cells were able to lower blood sugar levels and restore islet function in the following three ways:
Improvement of insulin resistance: stem cells will secret a variety of cytokines to improve the insulin resistance conditions in peripheral tissues and promote sugar intake by cells, thus reversing the hyperglycemia status in the body.
Promotion of regeneration of pancreatic islet β cells: Stem cells can reduce the progressive lesion to pancreatic islets from metabolic disorders in diabetes, at the same time can regenerate pancreatic β cells. In addition, stem cells can secret various cytokines to improve the microenvironment and induce the transformation of islet α cells to β cells. This process enables the in-situ regeneration of β cells and leads to the stabilization of blood sugar level.
Immunomodulation effect: stem cells can inhibit the T cell-mediated immune response against newly generated β cells and promote the repair and regeneration of pancreatic islets.
SQ1 Stem Cell Services
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Trump National Doral Miami
-- The Kaskel Years --
Immigrating from Poland in the 1920's, Alfred L. Kaskel (1901–1968) used his skills to open in the Coney Island neighborhood a small building supplies store which led to early opportunities as a building contractor. Kaskel saved his money and was able to build his first apartment building on Parkside Avenue in Brooklyn. By the age of 30 he was a millionaire. He reinvested the profits and rose to prominence in New York City real estate in the postwar period - as did Donald Trump's father, Fred Trump and Sam Lefrak - by securing low cost government loans to build housing for returning GIs. Kaskel realized the potential for affordable housing in New York City and developed apartments in Forest Hills-Kew Gardens-Rego Park, Queens. In 1945 Kaskel bought the Belmont Plaza Hotel on Lexington and 49th Street - which marked his beginning of a rapid acceleration into the hotel real estate. Kaskel (Carol Management named after his daughter Carole) bought Coney Island's famed Half Moon Hotel for $900,000 in 1947. Kaskel sold the hotel in 1949 for $1,000,000 to the Harbor Hospital of Brooklyn.
By 1958 Kaskel was a part time resident of Miami and built the Carillon, a 620 room palace designed by Norman Giller, the celebrated “father” of Miami Modern (MiMo) architecture at Collins and 68th. The Carillon epitomized resort culture in Miami Beach. In 1959, it was voted Miami Beach’s “Hotel of the Year.” A glamorous night spot, the Carillon became known during the 1960s for its famous guests, lavish parties, cabaret shows, and big-name entertainment. Kaskel enjoyed golf - it led him to the swampland west of the Miami Airport and the Doral Country Club. Alfred and Doris Kaskel purchased 2,400 acres of swampland between NW 36 Street and NW 74 Street and from NW 79 Avenue to NW 117 Avenue for about $49,000 with the intention of building a golf course and hotel. At that time there was no paved road to the property. Kaskel's wife and daughter thought he was crazy to purchase the property and called it "Kaskel's folly". In 1962, the Kaskel's dream came true when they opened a hotel and country club that featured the Blue, Red and Par 3 golf courses. They named it Doral - a combination of Alfred and Doris. The Doral was the most luxurious resort constructed in South Florida since the Miami Biltmore in Coral Gables opened in the 1920's. The Doral Country Club was built for $10 million by Kaskel's family owned real estate firm, Carol Management. The Doral golf concept was to build multiple golf courses with a central country club, dining, meeting facilities and lodge rooms and reserve the fairway views for future house, condo and apartment buildings. In 1963 Kaskel also opened the 420- room Doral-on-Ocean - as the sister hotel to the Doral Country Club. The Doral Beach Hotel was long considered the most elegant and luxurious hotel in the area. It won several Mobil Five Star awards. It was said Kaskel did not have a mortgage on the Carillon Hotel, Doral Beach of the Doral Country Club - all funded by the thousands of apartment houses he owned in New York City.
Kaskel hired Louis Sibbett "Dick" Wilson and his assistants Joe Lee and Bob Hagge (Robert von Hagge) to design Doral's two regulation length golf courses plus a par-3 course. Wilson was the architect for Bay Hill in Orlando and La Costa in Carlsbad, CA. Since much of the land was swamp Mr. Hagge excavated enough land to route fairways through the water infested terrain just as Kaskel had requested. The intention was to use existing water as an ever-present hazard compensating for the very flat landscape. In May, 1963 construction began on the White Course, for the Doral complex, but it needed dirt, and so the lakes were dredged and enlarged on the Blue course from 60 acres to 75 acres. Kaskel hired Bob Hagge to design the White course. As a result of the building of the new White course, the par-3 course was redesigned since they were both located on the same parcel of land. On January 20, 1966 the Doral Country Club White Course opened and in December 1966 the redesigned Par 3 course reopened. Since the Blue Course had been renamed the Blue Monster, the other courses were renamed as well. The Red Course was renamed the Red Tiger, as Jackie Gleason once called the course. The White Course became known as the White Wonder, and the Par-3 Course became known as the Green Course or the Green Hornet. In 1968, Robert von Hagge and Bruce Devlin were hired to build the fifth course at the Doral Country Club - the Gold Course. In January, 1970 the Gold Course opened for business and received the moniker of Bachelor's Gold.
Kaskel put up a large purse to attract a PGA event at Doral in 1962. The tournament was held on the Blue Course and was named the Doral Country Club Open Invitational. Billy Casper was the inaugural winner of the Doral tournament. For that triumph, Casper earned $9,000 of the $50,000 purse. After watching the professionals struggle on the Blue Course, the tournament director Frank Strafaci gave the Blue Course the nickname 'The Blue Monster' which stuck. Doral's Touring Golf Pro for many years was Seve Ballesteros.
By 1978 the Kaskel family had grown the Doral brand to 8 hotels including in NYC: Doral Tuscany (now the St Giles Tuscany), Doral Park Avenue (now the Iberostar), Doral Court (now the St. Giles The Court) and the Doral Inn (originally the Belmont Plaza and the former W Flagship hotel now the Maxwell). In 1987, a spa wing was added to the Doral Country Club's hotel and the facility was renamed as the Doral Golf Resort and Spa. Prior to its renovation, the 800 acre complex was reported to feature "four golf courses; 700 hotel rooms across 10 lodges; more than 86,000-square-foot of meeting space, including a 25,000-square-foot ballroom; a 50,000-square-foot spa with 33 treatment rooms; six food and beverage outlets; extensive retail; and a private members' clubhouse.
--- The next five owners - KSL, CNL, Morgan Stanley, Paulson & Co. and Donald J. Trump ---
In 1994, the Kaskel family (Carol Management) sold the resort to KSL Recreation, a Kohlberg Kravis Roberts affiliate focused on premier golf facilities, for approximately $100 million. KSL Recreation was formed in 1992 (Henry Kravis, Michael Shannon and Larry Lichliter) as a portfolio company of Kohlberg Kravis Roberts & Co. KSL investors include public and private pensions and high net worth individuals. KSL appointed Hans Turnovszky as the new general manager. KSL planned a $30 million renovation. Starwood Capital was another interested buyer. The renovation included the remodel of ground floor restaurants (Terraza and Champions Sports Bar and Grill), all rooms and the 4 golf courses.
By 1995 the 4 courses (Blue Monster, Gold, White and Red) at Doral were frayed around the edges after some years of neglect. The Blue Monster was dropped off Golf Digest's list of the best 100 courses in 1993. In an effort to update the Blue Monster's difficulty in relation to changes in golf technology and skill, KSL contracted Ray Floyd to renovate the course in 1995. Floyd added and enlarged the already numerous bunkers narrowing many landing areas from the tee. The course was challenging under ideal conditions, but in normal tradewinds the alterations proved too penal and very unpopular. In 1999 Jim McLean, the Doral golf instructor, was asked to take the edges off Floyd's modifications.
In 1999 KSL sold 36 acres next to the Doral's golf courses to Marriott Vacation Club International for 240 timeshare villas. The sale marks the first time the Doral's owner, KSL Hotel Corp., relinquished a part of its property, said Joel Paige, KSL president and general manager of the Doral Golf Resort & Spa. KSL has agreed to let Marriott feed off the Doral's amenities by granting timeshare owners the same 40 percent discount and preferred access as guests at KSL's 700-room hotel. That includes the spa, golf courses, tennis courts.
In 2004 CNL acquired KSL for $1.366 billion and debt of $794 million for total acquisition cost of $2.16 billion. The resort portfolio of six included: 692-room Doral Golf Resort & Spa in Miami, Florida, 780-room Grand Wailea Resort & Spa on Maui, Hawaii, 796-room La Quinta Resort & Club and PGA West in La Quinta, California, 738-room Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa in Phoenix, Arizona, 279-room Claremont Resort & Spa in Berkeley, California, 246-room Lake Lanier Islands Resort near Atlanta, Georgia. CNL placed the Doral resort under the management of Marriott International and renamed the property the Doral Golf Resort and Spa, a Marriott Resort. CNL said it would spend $40 million over the next three years on capital improvements at the Doral.
In 2007, CNL Hotels was acquired by the real estate arm of Morgan Stanley. The Doral was included in the portfolio of 8 resorts acquired by Morgan Stanley Real Estate for a total transaction cost of $6.6 billion. Michael Franco, the managing director of Morgan Stanley Real Estate said the resorts are extremely hard to replicate and will show excellent future growth from increased corporate group travel and leisure traveler markets.
In 2009, Doral's Silver Course was redesigned by Jim McLean and the course was renamed as the Doral Golf Resort & Spa - Jim McLean Signature Course.
In 2011, a group of creditors led by hedge fund giant Paulson & Co. seized control of the Doral and seven other properties from Morgan Stanley real estate funds. Morgan Stanley could not handle a $1 billion bond payment coming due. They quickly placed the Doral under Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection, and began seeking a buyer for the Doral. By selling Doral now the Paulson-led owners can use the cash to pay down debts and avoid making overdue capital expenditures of updating the property.
Donald Trump announced in October 2011 that he would buy Doral for $150 million and invest more than the purchase price to restore the property and make Doral great again. When asked what the renovation budget would be Trump has said "unlimited" which publicly became $250 million. The renovations were financed with $125 million in loans from Deutsche Bank. The Trump Organization's hotel management unit, Trump Hotel Collection, took over Doral's management in June 2012. Donald Trrump's daughter Ivanka took charge of the 700 guest rooms' redesign featuring Ivanka's "stylish palette of elegant neutrals, including ivory, champagne and caramel - accentuated with mahogany veneers and gold leaf Spanish revival details". Ivanka introduced her own brand synonymous with quality, elegance, and sophistication into every aspect; from the imported Austrian crystal chandeliers to the handmade Italian bed linens. The rooms were made over in to luxury suites that include massive marble baths with European styled whirlpools. All existing restaurants were gutted and a classic five-star "gourmet stunner" opened - BLT Prime.
Doral Golf Resort & Spa was renamed Trump National Doral Miami. The Blue Monster course was renovated by Gil Hanse and Jim Wagner and reopened in December 2013. After a Hanse/Wagner renovation, the Silver Fox course reopened in December 2014. The White Course was closed in January, 2015. The Red Tiger course reopened on January 12, 2015 and the Golden Palm course reopened in September 2015 after the Hanse/Wagner renovations.
The Blue Monster played host to the Doral Open on the PGA Tour from 1962 to 2006, and from 2007 to 2016 the WGC-Cadillac Championship made its home there. In 2016, it was announced that the tournament would be moved to Mexico City. In 2017 Rick Smith, best known as Phil Mickelson's former swing coach, replaced Jim McLean as the lead instructor at Trump National Doral Miami. McLean, a fixture at Doral through five owners and 26 years, moved his golf school to the nearby Biltmore Miami Hotel, where ownership has promised significant upgrades to its existing practice facilities. McLean called the move to Coral Gables "bittersweet."
Trump has been the target of dozens of liens from contractors who worked on the renovation project. On May 20, 2016, a Miami-Dade County Circuit Court judge ordered Trump National Doral Miami to be foreclosed and sold on June 28 unless the Trump Organization paid $32,800 to a Miami paint supply company. A 6-foot high portrait of Donald Trump hanging in the Champions Bar became controversial when it was reported to be purchased for $10,000 with funds from the non-profit Trump Foundation. The resort has challenged the local property tax assessments every year. In May 2019 it was reported the resort was in "steep decline" financially, in which its net operating income had fallen by 69 percent – from $13.8 million in 2015 to $4.3 million two years later.
David Feder has served as Vice President and Managing Director of Trump National Doral from 2014 to present. He previously presided over the Boca Resort and Club, Fairmont Turnberry Isle and the Arizona Biltmore. Paige Koerbel managed Doral in 2010 when it was operated by Marriott International and was there during the Trump acquisition. Joel Paige served as KSL's General Manager at Doral from 1995 to 2001. Paige is now the Chief Operating Officer at Kingsmill Resort in Williamsburg, Va.
Photos and text compiled by Dick Johnson
richardlloydjohnson@hotmail.com
blog.ted.com/2010/06/fellows_friday.php
From pollution-eating robots to abstract animated films, TED Fellow Cesar Harada is involved in an ocean of projects. He was able to squeeze in this interview with TED, where he talks about architecture, his love of the sea and a special cartoon cat.
What are the most important things you're working on right now?
The project I'm working on right now is called the "Energy Animal." I had the first iteration when I was working for the British government Renewable Energies Department at the University of Southampton in the Fluid Mechanics Laboratory.
I built a prototype that makes energy from the waves, the wind, and the sun simultaneously. It's a device that can be working in any type of weather condition, anywhere. It doesn't necessarily produce a lot of energy, but produces it steadily.
I'm still working very much on the World Environment Action. It's in coordination with Ushahidi [another TED Fellows project]. Three weeks ago I was in Kenya working on this environmental monitoring software that I'm going to use in the next application.
Since two weeks ago I am a researcher at MIT SENSEable City Lab and I am working on the project I mentioned before called Energy Animal. We're trying to build devices that make energy while collecting pollution -- apprehending pollution as a resource. Originally I was commissioned by MIT to collect the North Pacific Garbage Patch, but I've been redirected to work on the Gulf of Mexico oil spill, so now I am designing a machine to collect oil. It will use oil as a combustible, as a gasoline fuel to actually move around. The idea is to make autonomous robots that would swarm around and collect garbage or different types of pollution.
I'm designing not one specific device, but a floating open source design "framework" so it can generate many other boats for different applications. It can be used for the oil spill, or the North Pacific Garbage Patch or even for fresh water to purify, for example, the Laguna Venice, where the prototype will be presented for the International Architecture Biennale to represent the MIT SENSEable City Lab.
I am now pushing the lab staff to help me make this robot self-replicating: a robot that can fabricate its own children. Since we are collecting a lot of raw material, the best use we can make of that material is fabricating more robots to accelerate the cleaning. So that means that you make a robot, and if it accumulates energy and raw material, it can build, if you want, a baby -– the same of its own. So it's very futuristic. That is also why we are not working at solving this precise problem but more for longer-term.
We have problems that are very big, like the North Pacific Garbage Patch, and we never have the money to actually build an entire fleet. So we'd rather build a fleet that builds itself!
How will one device feed off of completely different types of pollution?
What I was saying about "framework" -- it's very much like the evolutionary process. You can't have a robot that does everything. The idea is that we build a framework, for example from a simple kind of boat, and you can swap organs. So say that you go for the oil spill -- you will have some oil combustion chamber. In Venezia you will have some anaerobic digester so it will make energy from gas -- methane, propane -- from organic waste digestion, and also create fertilizer. And if it's in the case of the North Pacific Gyre, it will collect the plastic, process some of it, and some will be reused to fabricate more raw materials. So the robots themselves will be made of plastic.
Read more of this interview with Cesar Harada after the jump >>
(Continued)
You have different labs like the "Energy Animal" that make up your overarching project, Open_Sailing. Tell me more about this project.
The purpose of Open_Sailing is to build an International Ocean Station. That's really the main target. Whatever the intermediary experiments we're doing, the objective is the International Ocean Station. So if NASA has as a target to explore space, Open_Sailing's would be to explore the ocean, and to do so, involving probably inventing this new generation of devices.
Open_Sailing has many different applications. For example the Instinctive Architecture could be inhabited human beings. For the Energy Animal, it's autonomous drones. The Nomadic Ecosystem are moving farms. They are designed for a world even without humans.
ABOVE: Cesar and a Nomadic Ecosystem float prototype
You compare your project to the International Space Station. A lot of expertise, money and time were invested in that. You've said you expect to achieve something comparable with a fraction of the resources. Why are you convinced you can succeed?
The first reason is that many, many people have access to the sea, so the testing ground is near us. Secondly, I'd like to actually probably moderate what I said because I said this when I was quite early in the research. And a few days after I wrote these words for the first time, I went to meet Professor Masubuchi in the MIT Center for Ocean Engineering. He happens to also have been the chief welding engineer of NASA for the rocket that went on the moon.
We had a long discussion and I asked him why we don't have already an International Ocean Station if we already have an International Space Station. And he told me that it's because the International Ocean Station is much more complicated to make. And that is also why he himself was transferred from NASA to ocean engineering –- because the ocean is the next frontier.
Space is empty, cold, and the gravitational forces are very predictable, depending on where you are in space. You can deploy these very huge solar panels, like 100-meter long solar panels, with almost no support because there is little gravity. It's mostly empty space, it's cold and there's no acidity.
But in the ocean you have the mechanical action of the waves, some of which impact can be tens of tons per square meter. You have salinity, UV, winds, strong currents all the time, and the conditions are changing very, very quickly. In other words the surface of the ocean is very, very difficult. And on the bottom you have extreme high pressures, darkness….
How did you move from architecture to designing ocean structures?
I'm not a qualified architect, I didn't graduate from architecture. My family is in construction. Most of my uncles are structure engineers in Japan, which is subject to a lot of earthquakes, so since I'm a kid I've been building houses and participating in architectural plans for buildings. When I was in Kenya, again, I was construction manager, so I'm not an architect officially but I'm an architect in the fact. Also my father actually is a professor in an architecture school. These 2 last years I was assistant of the Architect Usman Haque, Angel Borrego Cubero and the biochemist Natalie Jeremijenko.
I've always been passionate about the ocean. Since I was a kid –- before I could walk -- I was a very good baby swimmer [laughs]. Actually the first time I went to the hospital, it was because when I was four years old, I was left alone and I went smashing myself in the waves. I was found on the beach side, my lungs full of sand and my nose cavity full of pebbles. So I had to have my first operation to remove the pebbles out of my nose when I was four.
ABOVE: Cesar on his boat, Vela
And since I'm passionate about sailing and windsurfing … that is also why I'm in MIT, because a few minutes from the office I can sail. So 3 or 4 times a week I am windsurfing and sailing now. I'm really happy here.
Let's talk about World Environment Action.
World Environment Action is a website that is crowdsourcing environmental data. The idea is that to be getting everybody to participate to create the most reliable and multi-platform service. We are using Ushahidi, which is a crisis reporting system, so people can use their mobile phones, they can send just a simple SMS, MMS, they can make a phone call, or they can go directly on the website w-e-a.org and report an environmental problem.
The idea is very simple. If you are passing in front of some environmental damage, you can just take a picture with your mobile phone and you upload it to the website, and almost in real time –- maybe just a couple of hours after because we have to moderate every post -- then you will be able to see this environmental report, amongst a lot of others. So the idea is that everybody can become an environmental activist. You don't have to be part of an NGO, or you don't have to be part of a government, or claim that you belong to anybody, you can just actively report and take action against environmental problems.
Ushahidi was started by two TED Fellows. Can you tell us more about that partnership?
The whole TED experience instantly bounded a TED family that one can only be delighted to be part of. I was looking for partners in software development and environmental monitoring, I found Erik Hersman and the Ushahidi project. I was looking for good programmers, I found Jessica Colaco. Together Erik and Jessica are building the iHub in Nairobi, the Kenyan innovation incubator that will soon be the hottest place in mobile application development in East Africa.
ABOVE: Jessica Colaco, Erik Hersman and Cesar Harada: A TED Fellows Coalition
I brought them an ambitious project clearly answering the question TED asked: "What the World Needs Now." The answer: a powerful environmental governance. We are currently looking for partners and contributors for this world-changing project. We can make it happen, together.
Let's talk about the films you've produced.
Films used to be my goal, but now I consider them only a way to share ideas. So I actually studied animation film until I was 23. I made a couple of things but now when I look back at them I feel they are very intimate and poetic.
Maybe three weeks ago I just republished a film that I re-masterized. One is called Arvo Part -- it's a remix of Arvo Pärt, one of my favorite composers, and it's really abstract. The second is called disponible (available), a roadtrip I made in nature on a boat I fabricated for the purpose of the film.
What cartoon character are you most similar to?
I wish Doraemon! Doraemon is a mechanical cat. He's such an important character. Basically he's a big lazy cat and he's really funny and ingenious. He has a big pocket in front of him like on his belly here, and he always pulls out the craziest gadgets from it. He's the best product designer in history.
Anything else before we wrap up?
I have to stress that a lot of what I do is very propositional. The International Ocean Station is a very, very big endeavor, and the World Environment Action is the same –- it's a very ambitious project. What MIT has asked me to solve are global-scale problems.
Look at me, I'm just a little guy, I do my best, I don't sleep very much already, I don't know how much I can do for the world, but I have lots of ideas and I try hard. I really consider myself a contributor. Even if in my lifetime none of the stuff that I'm talking about and working on everyday exists before I die, it's ok. If I can contribute to the fact that it comes into existence one day, for me it's a very big satisfaction.
Posted by Alana Herro
The Starts and Stops
As long as you believe things come to you from your own power and strength and you rely on that,
nothing will come to you from the Realm of the Unseen.
Ghaus Pak (ra)
When I studied tajweed, the rules of recitation of the Quran, a few years ago I only memorized the shorter surahs in the end. Then this Ramadan I memorized a longer one. It was Surah Yaseen. Well, almost! I’m shy a few verses. It had been suggested to me for eons but I had not been able to do it. Primarily out of laziness. But in all honesty I was not being granted the ability. Probably because of the laziness.
Last month, for the 12th of Rabbul Awal, I wrote a piece through which I learnt that, according to the Quran, the heart, as opposed to the mind, is the seat of intellect and understanding. Just as I continued to learn it, I had also been reciting the Surah Yaseen every day so I didn’t forget it. Now each time I came to the following verse, the thought of the uncomprehending heart crossed my mind.
لِّيُنذِرَ مَن كَانَ حَيًّۭا َ
It warns those who are alive (of heart) – Surah Yaseen, Verse 70
So I knew. The state of my heart was the reason why my spiritual journey was in endless starts and stops. I knew the starts came when I followed the Friends of God. I wanted to uncover the root of the stops. What was making me also not obey them? I asked my teacher, Qari Sahib, to devote a class to it.
He began with a verse from Az-Zumar, The Troops.
أَفَمَن شَرَحَ ٱللَّهُ صَدْرَهُۥ لِلْإِسْلَـٰمِ فَهُوَ عَلَىٰ نُورٍۢ مِّن رَّبِّهِۦ ۚ
فَوَيْلٌۭ لِّلْقَـٰسِيَةِ قُلُوبُهُم مِّن ذِكْرِ ٱللَّهِ ۚ
أُو۟لَـٰٓئِكَ فِى ضَلَـٰلٍۢ مُّبِينٍ
Is the one whose heart God has opened to submit to Him with willingness so he is illuminated by a light from His Lord (the same as the one whose heart rejects God)?
So woe unto those whose hearts are hardened against remembrance of Allah.
They are clearly lost in error – Surah Az-Zumar, Verse 22
“So what is happening here?” Qari Sahib began. “The light from Allah is for the one who surrenders willingly. Islam is submission yes but it is submission with a willingness that matters to God.”
“Jo marzi se aaye,” is what he said exactly. “The one who comes wanting to.” It reminded me of a lecture by Uzair I had just finished hearing. He had touched on the same subject so to speak, willingness, but from the opposing angle, refusal. When it was allowed and when it bore penalty.
Uzair’s lecture was titled “Quran, Hadith and Hadith Qudsi.” It was one of the best lectures I have heard in my life. I thought I already knew how to define the three but he put it so concisely I was reminded of the words “fasahat” and “balaghat” – the deepest meaning expressed in the least number of words. It was one of the gifts bestowed upon Nabi Kareem (peace be upon him) by his Lord.
أُعْطِيتُ مَفَاتِيحَ الْكَلِمِ، وَنُصِرْتُ بِالرُّعْبِ، وَبَيْنَمَا أَنَا نَائِمٌ الْبَارِحَةَ
إِذْ أُتِيتُ بِمَفَاتِيحِ خَزَائِنِ الأَرْضِ حَتَّى وُضِعَتْ فِي يَدِي
The Prophet (peace be upon him) said, “I have been given the keys of eloquent speech and given victory with awe (cast into the hearts of the enemy), and while I was sleeping last night, the keys of the treasures of the Earth were brought to me till they were put in my hand.”
I memorized Uzair’s definitions: “The Quran, Hadith and hadith Qudsi, all three are the kalam, the spoken word, of the Prophet (peace be upon him). I want to tell you the differences between the three for they are subtle.
Let’s start with the Quran: the ilm (knowledge) is Allah’s, the topics (mazameen) are chosen by Him and it is His Words (alfaaz).
In hadith the ilm is still Allah’s, the words and topics are chosen by the Prophet (peace be upon him) and the thought is the Prophet’s (peace be upon him).
For Hadith Qudsi, the knowledge is again Allah’s, the topic is also chosen by Allah but the words are those of Mustafa (peace be upon him).
So the weight, the significance, of the Quran and the Hadith Qudsi is in fact the same. The only difference is in the words. Allah chooses them in the former, Huzoor chooses them in the latter on behalf of Allah.”
Midway through his lecture, Uzair touched on refusal while giving the reason people were going to be sent to Heaven or Hell.
“Allah uses polarity, opposites, to describe the signs of the two groups of people. He says, ‘If you don’t want to land in Hell, don’t do these two things; don’t be arrogant and don’t be unjust. And if you want to go to Heaven, be humble to the point of appearing weak and don’t be of those who exert power over others.’”
Then he delved into the idea of pride. I knew it was the fountainhead of all sin for it was the first sin. Iblis had refused to obey the Command to bow before the Prophet Adam (as) out of pride. Uzair explained the nuances within the concept of refusal using his example. Refusal was allowed in the faith. Or perhaps expected. It was just when it was soaked in pride that it brought God’s Wrath upon one.
“When Allah created the Universe, He wanted to give His Trust (amana’t) to it and He asked if there was a taker. For it was a burden.
إِنَّا عَرَضْنَا ٱلْأَمَانَةَ عَلَى ٱلسَّمَـٰوَٰتِ وَٱلْأَرْضِ وَٱلْجِبَالِ فَأَبَيْنَ أَن يَحْمِلْنَهَا وَأَشْفَقْنَ مِنْهَا وَحَمَلَهَا ٱلْإِنسَـٰنُ ۖ إِنَّهُۥ كَانَ ظَلُومًۭا جَهُولًۭا
Indeed, We offered the burden of Trust to the heavens and the earth and the mountains,
but they refused to bear it and they feared from it but bore it Man. Indeed, he was unjust and foolish – Surah Al-Ahzab, Verse 72
‘But they refused,’ the verse says. But did Allah become angry with them? Did he destroy them? No. It is only when the refusal is tinged with arrogance that Allah becomes angry. When Allah asked Iblis why he wouldn’t bow, He even told him that Adam was different from all other Creation.
قَالَ يَـٰٓإِبْلِيسُ مَا مَنَعَكَ أَن تَسْجُدَ لِمَا خَلَقْتُ بِيَدَىَّ ۖ أَسْتَكْبَرْتَ أَمْ كُنتَ مِنَ ٱلْعَالِينَ
He said, “O Iblis! What prevented you that you don’t prostrate to whom I created with My Hands? Are you arrogant or are you of the exalted ones?” – Surah As-Sad, Verse 75
For everything else came into being because Allah said a word, ‘Kun.’ Be and ‘fayakun,’ it is! But in the case of human beings, He says He made him with His Hands. Which He doesn’t have but it is to set his creation apart from all else.
But Iblis responded, ‘You made me from fire and him from earth.’”
Uzair ended the point on this note: “Human beings are in a state of refusing God all day along. If we were punished for it each time, existence would not be possible. It is refusal with arrogance which causes all goodness to become null in an instant. Be it ours or Iblis’ countless years of worship.”
Qari Sahib had once shed light on the daily aspects of pride’s interference in one’s life unforgettably. He was relating one of his favourite incidents from his years in the Madrassa.
“My teacher used to tell us this story of Hazrat Mujjadid al Fisani (ra), a Master of the Naqshbandi path, and his advice to a young man.
So he said to his disciple, “Rabb na bani te rasool na bani.” (Don’t become God and don’t become a Prophet!)
The student’s jaw dropped with amazement as did mine.
“How can I possible ever think to become God or a Prophet?” he exclaimed.
“You will see you do it all the time,” Hazrat Mujjadid al Fasani (ra) replied.
Then he went on to explain. “‘Whatever I want should happen’ – human beings start thinking like that but it is only Allah Subhan Ta’ala whose Will always prevails. ‘Whoever denies me is munkir, is kafir, the denier of truth’ becomes a regular response, covert if not overt, in times of disagreements but only a Prophet of God can claim thus.”
The words were striking. Everyone seemed to want what they wanted to happen all the time. More and more since instant gratification was becoming the norm. I wonder if that contributed to people’s distance from the Afterlife. It was so far away. Who cared what happened then. I confess I found myself in category two most of the time. Nothing I wanted ever came about so I had let go of that. It was the contradiction to ideas that in all fairness weren’t mine but those I had studied, by those who knew nothing most of the time that made me think of them as munkirs and kafirs. It happened instantly and it felt infuriating.
Going back to the lecture, Qari Sahib quoted another verse to explain the first one about the heart and willingness.
“Let’s go back a step. What is necessary to accept Islam willingly, to surrender one’s self to Allah?” He answered the question himself through the Quran. “Guidance!”
فَمَن يُرِدِ ٱللَّهُ أَن يَهْدِيَهُۥ يَشْرَحْ صَدْرَهُۥ لِلْإِسْلَـٰمِ ۖ
And whoever God wills to guide, He opens wide his breast to self-surrender (unto Him).
– Surah Al-An’am, Verse 125
“Note the sequence in the verse: First comes the Will of Allah (irada) to guide, then He opens the heart to surrender to Him. Then light enters it and it is no longer dark.”
I mapped it for clarity: Will – guidance – light!
مَا كُنتَ تَدْرِى مَا ٱلْكِتَـٰبُ وَلَا ٱلْإِيمَـٰنُ وَلَـٰكِن جَعَلْنَـٰهُ نُورًۭا نَّهْدِى بِهِۦ
مَن نَّشَآءُ مِنْ عِبَادِنَا ۚ
You did not know what the Book was nor the faith but We have made it a light whereby we guide whom We will of Our Servant – Surah Ash-Shu’ra, Verse 52
“But why did it become dark in the first place, the heart?” I asked. Was it simply the reverse? No guidance was received because Allah did not will it? What was my role then? That was what concerned me all the time.
I was in a continual effort these days to curb my over the top reactions to two categories of people in my life; the ignorant and the sad. Both were unaware of their states. I was acutely aware of mine. Yet my response towards them remained unchanging. It was frustrating. They both drove me nuts. One would think my cognizance of the differences between us would render me some control but my nafs was overpowering. I was desperate to hone in on what aspect of my nafs was so overwhelmingly, enshrouding me so completely. After all “the evil that befell me was my own doing.”
“The heart is dark because of the absence of light.” Qari Sahib repeated what he had told me often before. “Where is the nur?”
يَـٰٓأَيُّهَا ٱلَّذِينَ ءَامَنُوا۟ ٱتَّقُوا۟ ٱللَّهَ وَءَامِنُوا۟ بِرَسُولِهِۦ يُؤْتِكُمْ كِفْلَيْنِ مِن رَّحْمَتِهِۦ
وَيَجْعَل لَّكُمْ نُورًۭا تَمْشُونَ بِهِۦ
وَيَغْفِرْ لَكُمْ ۚ وَٱللَّهُ غَفُورٌۭ رَّحِيمٌۭ
O ye who believed! Remain conscious of God and believe in His Messenger (peace be upon him) and He will grant you doubly of His Mercy.
And He will make for you a (nur) light, you will walk with it.
And He will forgive you. For Allah is Oft-Forgiving, Most Merciful – Surah Al-Hadid, Verse 28
“Where was my nur?” I thought.
In the Surah At-Taghabun translated as The Haggling, The Cheating, The Mutual Disillusion, Ghaus Pak (ra) explains why something goes right and why it goes wrong.
هُوَ ٱلَّذِى خَلَقَكُمْ فَمِنكُمْ كَافِرٌۭ وَمِنكُم مُّؤْمِنٌۭ ۚ
وَٱللَّهُ بِمَا تَعْمَلُونَ بَصِيرٌ
It is He who created you. Yet some of you deny the truth and some of you believe in it.
And Allah sees all that you do – Surah At-Taghabun, Verse 2
In his tafseer (exegesis of the Quran) I found my answer as to why Allah limits ability (taufeeq) for some and renders them without guidance and therefore without light. Ability is confined to kufr, limited to hiding or denying the truth. either because we are inspired by Iblis’ whisperings or succumbing to the desires of our own ego, the nafs. Both of which veil a person from the sun of the reality of Truth.
That day I let two words from the beginning of Qari Sahib’s last verse addressed to the believers spin in my head. To be counted amongst them, one had to be a possessor of taqwa and imaan according to the Arabic in the verse. I was familiar with both.
Begin excerpt The Softest Heart
The exalted category of the Mo’mineen in Mankind, the believers, are in fact unknown to each other and even to themselves. Most people confuse being of the believers with simply being Muslim. It is critical to understand there is a significant difference. Becoming a Muslim, at least overtly, only requires the utterance of a single line, the Kalima Tauheed (Declaration of One-ness of God):
لَآ اِلٰهَ اِلَّا اللّٰهُ مُحَمَّدٌ رَّسُوْلُ اللّٰهِؕ
There is no God but Allah and Muhammad (peace be upon him) is His Messenger.
That’s it! Entering the religion, Islam, has this sole marker. Anyone Muslim who has ever had a female friend or relative marrying outside the faith knows that the utterance of that one line by the to-be spouse is desperately sought by the family.
Imaan on the other hand, faith, has no measures that a human can apply and then tick off. For themselves or anyone else! It lies inside the heart where only one has access, its Creator. In the Quran, all the verses in which those who Allah decrees possess imaan start in the same way. Allah calls out to them:
يَا أَيُّهَا الَّذِينَ آمَنُوا
Ya Ayyoha-Alladina Amino.
O Ye who believed!
O Ye who attained to faith!
Since everything about the language and the Book pivots on precision, what Allah Ar-Rahman, The Beneficent, says in each of these verses and in what order becomes supremely significant. I decided to study the first address for it would then be the most so.
يَا أَيُّهَا الَّذِينَ آمَنُوا لَا تَقُولُوا رَاعِنَا
وَقُولُوا انظُرْنَا وَاسْمَعُوا ۗ وَلِلْكَافِرِينَ عَذَابٌ أَلِيمٌ
O Ye who believed! Say not (to Allah's Messenger (peace be upon him)), "Ra'ina" but say, "Unthurna" and listen. And for the Disbelievers is a painful punishment - Surah Al-Baqarah, verse 104
With Qari Sahib, I read three tafaseer (exegesis of the Quran) of the verse by Imam Razi, Naeemi and Tibyan al Quran to understand what Allah Al-Quddus, The Most Sacred, was saying in this, His First Saying to the Believers. I discovered the following:
“At the time of the first sermons of the Prophet (peace be upon him), some of the Muslims used to use the word Ra’ina which means, “Please excuse us while we understand.” In essence they were asking for more time, leeway, in coming about to his Message. Some of the Jews, when speaking to the Prophet (peace be upon him) started using a word from the Hebrew, also sounding like Rai’na, that was disrespectful and lacking regard. The meaning of that word is to “Hear and be not heard.” Taking advantage of the word being used by the Muslims, they laughed amongst themselves in having the opportunity to mock the Prophet (peace be upon him).
One day, upon hearing the utterance from them, Hazrat Saad Bin Muaz (ratu) cursed those who used it and warned them that if he heard the word from their mouths again, he would cut off their necks. They retorted that the Muslims used the word as well so why didn’t he go and kill them. In this moment the verse was revealed:
O you who believed, say not (to Allah's Messenger (peace be upon him)), ‘Ra'ina’ but say, ‘Unthurna’ and listen. And for the Disbelievers is a painful punishment.”
Majestically, Allah Al-Muhaymin, The Preserver of Safety, steps in for the Prophet (peace be upon him), ending the charade for anyone who claimed at least to believe, by forbidding the address altogether, giving its replacement instead, Unthurna.
Thus, the first time Allah directly speaks to His Creation (and those of us who aspire to be counted amongst the Believers one day), He clearly delineates two things: the mark of the Believer is regard for His Beloved (peace be upon him) and anyone deviating from a show of respect for him, compulsory, is deserving of a painful punishment.
The following verse from the Quran explains the idea exactly:
مِّنَ الَّذِينَ هَادُوا يُحَرِّفُونَ الْكَلِمَ عَن مَّوَاضِعِهِ
وَيَقُولُونَ سَمِعْنَا وَعَصَيْنَا وَاسْمَعْ غَيْرَ مُسْمَعٍ
وَرَاعِنَا لَيًّا بِأَلْسِنَتِهِمْ وَطَعْنًا فِي الدِّينِ ۚ
وَلَوْ أَنَّهُمْ قَالُوا سَمِعْنَا وَأَطَعْنَا وَاسْمَعْ وَانظُرْنَا لَكَانَ خَيْرًا لَّهُمْ
وَأَقْوَمَ وَلَٰكِن لَّعَنَهُمُ اللَّهُ بِكُفْرِهِمْ فَلَا يُؤْمِنُونَ إِلَّا قَلِيلًا
Among those of the Jewish faith are they who distort words from their (proper) usages and say, "We hear and disobey" and "Hear but be not heard" and "Ra'ina," twisting their tongues and defaming the religion.
And if they had said (instead), "We hear and obey" and "Wait for us (to understand)," it would have been better for them and more suitable. But Allah has cursed them for their disbelief, so they believe not, except for a few - Surah An-Nisa, Verse 46
The verse serves another purpose, hugely significant.
If from a good act can arise something evil, then to avoid the evil, leave the supposed good act.
وَلَا تَسُبُّوا الَّذِينَ يَدْعُونَ مِن دُونِ اللَّهِ فَيَسُبُّوا اللَّهَ عَدْوًا بِغَيْرِ عِلْمٍ ۗ
And do not insult those they (the Disbelievers) invoke other than Allah, lest they insult Allah in enmity without knowledge - Surah Al-An’am, Verse 108
Thus, in the first verse of 89 verses beginning with O Ye who believed, Allah Al-Hafiz, The Guarding One, sets the foundation of all relationships for humanity as well. Respect is the essential ingredient. Manners and therefore behavior are the manifestation of it. In the absence of either, nothing else is sustainable, least of all love. No other emotion, no matter how pure, can carry a relationship forward without regard, without a sensitivity for the state of another’s heart.
As far as teaching His Creation something Himself, Allah Al-Wakeel, The Universal Trustee, in His first lesson commands regard for His Beloved Messenger (peace be upon him) and nothing for Himself per se. Not piety or generosity or patience or gratitude, not softness or kindness, not prayer or any other ritual of worship that He solely receives. The first step in obedience, in being considered a person of faith before Him, is respect for His Beloved (peace be upon him).
End Excerpt The Softest Heart
And so the verses addressing the “believers” continue one by one, some extremely easy to abide to, others much more difficult. Taqwa had its own layering:
Begin excerpt The Softest Heart
I understood that it was the lack of purification (tazkiya) that separated my zahir overt from my baatin, inner being, occupying the giant abyss that prohibited the union of the two. There seemed to be two aspects to it. The tafseer of Surah An-Nas allowed me to focus on not just being acutely aware of what they were but of their cleansing: the erasure of the doubts and the paranoia, the elimination of irrational fear. Then my thoughts, my intentions which governed my deeds would emanate from a single point. There would be fusion of the overt and the hidden. Once the clouds of doubt were lifted, then perhaps knowledge could become manifest in deed, not just remain isolated in my head.
I came upon the second aspect of tazkiya in a lecture by Uzair. He explained that according to hikmat, wisdom, there are five main motivators of actions for a human being: need, desire, lust, emotion and finally, the soul. They lie in a pyramid-like structure and the layering begins with need forming the base of the pyramid. Then comes desire which dominates need. Then is lust which over-rides desire. Fourth is emotion which prevails over the other three: lust, desire and need. Atop all of them is the soul. If one gains access to it, and it’s a big if, the soul over-rides everything else. That is nirvana!
Uzair explained that all humans experienced all four states of need, desire, lust and emotion while alive. Suppressing them entirely was not possible. On top of that I read that ending a desire was itself a desire, hence desire could never be gotten rid of entirely by one’s own self! What was needed was for the four variables to be in a state of balance, to exist within limits, a hadd. I was reminded again of the verses in the Quran endlessly pointing to the ones who only indulge every whim and emotion and remain stuck in a perpetual state of darkness. The punishment was severe: obedience of indulgence rendered one undeserving of aid from where it was essential, God.
وَكَذَٰلِكَ أَنزَلْنَاهُ حُكْمًا عَرَبِيًّا ۚ
وَلَئِنِ اتَّبَعْتَ أَهْوَاءَهُم بَعْدَمَا جَاءَكَ مِنَ الْعِلْمِ مَا لَكَ مِنَ اللَّهِ مِن وَلِيٍّ وَلَا وَاقٍ
Thus have We revealed it, a decisive utterance in Arabic, and if you should follow their desires after that which has come unto you of knowledge, then truly would you have from Allah no protecting friend nor defender - Surah Ar-Ra’d, Verse 37
Hence was made clear that the one who made their likes and dislikes their master, their gods, became incapable of receiving guidance. The thought made me shudder. My weakness predominantly lay in the fourth rung: my emotions were usually running abound unchecked, indulged by me to no end.
فَإِن لَّمْ يَسْتَجِيبُوا لَكَ فَاعْلَمْ أَنَّمَا يَتَّبِعُونَ أَهْوَاءَهُمْ
If they do not respond to you (O Beloved (peace be upon you)), then know that they follow only their own desires - Surah Al-Qassas, Verse 50
For the one who was on a path of spirituality, the dominance of the soul over the rest was the ultimate goal. Listening to the soul, doing what it says, what it wants, that was the way to live in order to be close to Allah Al-Haqq, The One who is the Truth. For the soul was in a permanent state of attachment to Him.
فَإِذَا سَوَّيْتُهُ وَنَفَخْتُ فِيهِ مِن رُّوحِي فَقَعُوا لَهُ سَاجِدِينَ
And when I have formed him fully and breathed into him of My Spirit, fall, you (the angels), down before him in prostration! - Surah As-Sad, Verse 72
Uzair explained that to control need, desire, lust and emotion one had to exercise refraining. And that ceasing from obedience to the motivators of action, that was taqwa. It was to safeguard oneself from what is deemed harmful as well as forbidden, both in physical action as well as in thought. The one who practices taqwa is the Muttaqi whose status is the highest in the Quran. The first verse of the first Surah, Al-Baqarah, states exactly that:
ذَٰلِكَ الْكِتَابُ لَا رَيْبَ ۛ فِيهِ ۛ هُدًى لِّلْمُتَّقِينَ
This Divine Writ, let there be no doubt about it is (meant to be) a guidance for all the God-conscious (the Muttaqeen) - Surah Al-Baqarah, Verse 2
Seems strange to be told something in the very beginning and only get to it in the end! Since, as previously stated, the order of the verses form their significance, guidance from the Quran was only set aside for those who attempted to check their motivators of action thus tapping into the soul.
For that rendered them to be receptors of guidance.
وَالَّذِينَ اهْتَدَوْا زَادَهُمْ هُدًى وَآتَاهُمْ تَقْوَاهُمْ
And for those who are (willing to be) guided, He increases their (ability to follow His) Guidance and causes them to grow in their consciousness of God - Surah Muhammad, Verse 17
But I knew taqwa could not be rooted in fear, the word it is translated into most often. Taqwa could only come about from a state of awareness of God that wanted to increase.
In that state of resonance with The Divine, far from being a driving force, the fear of retribution, of punishment and Hell was absent altogether. In any case, fear was too easily ignored at will. Indulgence easily and almost always prevailed over it. It could also not be about living a life devoid of sin. Who amongst us was sure they would never commit any kind of wrongdoing ever again? It wasn’t even possible.
From all I read and heard, taqwa was being in a state of sincere consciousness of God, a consciousness which caused one to feel ashamed to disappoint Him, to feel ungrateful to go against that which Allah Ar-Rahman, The Most Beneficent, willed. But if it wasn’t fear then what would become the reason to abandon one’s own will for His? I discovered that it would be the awareness, the ability, to be informed about the source of one’s own wellbeing.
The only sustainable cause to give up that which was a source of pleasure once, despite being harmful, despite being forbidden, was to differentiate between one’s state of peace and calm versus one of anxiety and distress as result of it. Only when the source of the restlessness was known could it be abandoned.
إِيَّاكُمْ وَحَزَّازَ الْقُلُوبِ وَمَا حَزَّ فِي قَلْبِكِ مِنْ شَيْءٍ فَدَعْهُ
Beware of what disturbs the hearts. If something unsettles your heart, then abandon it.
Therefore to take effect, taqwa could only be rooted in love. If not love of God or His Beloved (peace be upon him), at least love for one’s own self. That is why every spiritual journey only really starts with a discovery of one’s own self-esteem.
After hearing the lecture on the motivators of action, I kept wondering when I would be able to listen to my soul? I knew somewhere the secret lay in surrender! Surrender of everything to the care of Nabi Kareem (peace be upon him), the appointed Purifier, and through him, God. It had to be in one’s own surrender as well as that of loved ones, worrying for whom could so easily eat away at one’s peace of mind and harden the heart. For then each and every thing chosen by Allah and His Beloved (peace be upon him) would come into play. Whether it felt difficult or unfair, there was nothing better than that which they would ordain.
وَعَسَىٰ أَن تَكْرَهُوا شَيْئًا وَهُوَ خَيْرٌ لَّكُمْ ۖ وَعَسَىٰ أَن تُحِبُّوا شَيْئًا وَهُوَ شَرٌّ لَّكُمْ ۗ
وَاللَّهُ يَعْلَمُ وَأَنتُمْ لَا تَعْلَمُونَ
But it may well be that you hate a thing the while it is good for you, and it may well be that you love a thing the while it is bad for you and God knows, whereas you do not know - Surah Al Baqarah, Verse 216
But what surrendering actually entailed, I did not know.
Then in the spring of 2019 I landed in Fes per my annual schedule of travel. I chose tazkiya, purification, for the topic of my study. I wanted to learn about it deeply in case I came upon something that I had missed. As it turned out I had missed it all!
We started the class with the definitions of purification. All people of faith trying to “do good”, “be good” know two of them. The first is deepening possessed virtue, if any, and striving to acquire positive attributes previously absent. The second is limiting and eventually discarding from habit, and therefore behaviour, that which is forbidden or marked as detrimental, both physically and emotionally.
My teacher, Ustad Ahmed, offered a third.
“I didn’t know there was third definition,” I said. The surprise in my tone was clear.
“Yes there is and it’s everywhere in the Quran.”
He paused. I paused too. I read the Quran but it was almost always a forced read (then). I didn’t understand the translations. I didn’t get anything out of the Arabic. I just read it to read it, to “do good” and “be good.” Only when I studied it with a teacher through tafaseer did its secrets become apparent to me, did I learn anything. Ustad Ahmed continued:
“The third and perhaps most subtle condition for purification is that one should not praise their own selves, their ego, their nafs.”
I stared at the words on the page we were reading. Verse after verse from the Quran was echoing the same.
فَلَا تُزَكُّوا أَنفُسَكُمْ ۖ هُوَ أَعْلَمُ بِمَنِ اتَّقَىٰ
Do not, then, consider yourselves pure. He knows best as to who is conscious of Him - Surah An-Najm, Verse 32
I felt confused but I didn’t know why so I didn’t say anything. On the way home, the words swam in my head. Except they weren’t so much floating as hitting my heart like arrows. How could such a simple statement have such a devastating consequence? There could not be any purification and therefore knowledge could never transfer to deed just because a person ascribed any goodness to themselves!
At first I thought the whole idea was terribly unfair. Wasn’t there a clear catch 22 in the first two definitions? If I was actively, perhaps on occasion successfully, trying to acquire an attribute I didn’t possess or deepen one I already had, as well as giving up things I had done for too long just because they were forbidden, how could I not feel like I was worthy of at least a tiny bit of praise?
Why wouldn’t I notice the achievement and acknowledge it? Wasn’t I at least entitled to a pat on the back for my effort, if not success if there was any? How could anyone avoid that trap? But rules are rules. If there is one thing I learnt in the years I tried to gain spiritual knowledge, it was that. Either a rule was followed exactly or it was broken to suit one’s own preferences and therefore its altered application never had any effect.
The next day in class brought everything home in terms of the real cause behind the prohibition of self-praise. The line was uttered by Iblis before God:
قَالَ مَا مَنَعَكَ أَلَّا تَسْجُدَ إِذْ أَمَرْتُكَ ۖ
قَالَ أَنَا خَيْرٌ مِّنْهُ خَلَقْتَنِي مِن نَّارٍ وَخَلَقْتَهُ مِن طِينٍ
(Allah) said, "What prevented you that you did not prostrate when I commanded you?" (Iblis) said, "I am better than him. You created me from fire and You created him from clay.” - Surah Al-A’raf, Verse 12
أَنَا خَيْرٌ مِّنْهُ
Ana khairun min-hu!
Five words: I am better than him.
In the spiritual theory of knowledge, if you are not practicing something you know and understand as knowledge, then in reality you do not possess that knowledge either.
In those six weeks while I roamed the city that I love, I realized that all the while I was trying feverishly to be a believer, a Mo’min, I had entirely forgotten to first be a Muslim. Then my friend Tashu sent me an excerpt from a book she was reading as she often does. It was spectacular in terms of shedding light on the process of self-reflection, of what was happening behind the scenes:
Maulana Rum (ra) says in The Sufi Path of Love: The Prophets and Saints call people to God and Paradise, while Iblis and his followers call them to Hell. So these two groups perform opposite functions in the world. But all opposites are correlative terms and ultimately manifest a single reality. Hence from another point of view, the Prophets and Iblis are performing a single task: making the Hidden Treasure manifest by inciting people to display their inward natures. Those who follow the Prophets and Saints show that within them the Attribute of Gentleness predominates while those who follow Satan reveal that they are primarily manifestations of the Attribute of Severity.
What was the ratio of gentleness to severity for me? I felt like I was at a point where I didn’t want to know anymore, to seek anything anymore. I just wanted to be led and not take a single step in any direction of my own volition. The admission that I knew nothing about everything was a first!
End excerpt The Softest Heart
Qari Sahib started adding more dots to the design in the verses. Nur, light from God, was the goal. It came when Allah willed guidance upon one. The guidance was bestowed to the one who surrendered, then sought an increase in their imaan and practiced taqwa.
“There is something else you should know that Allah is mentioning each time He says the heart is unable to comprehend. He says the ears also cannot hear.”
وَمِنْهُم مَّن يَسْتَمِعُ إِلَيْكَ ۖ
وَجَعَلْنَا عَلَىٰ قُلُوبِهِمْ أَكِنَّةً أَن يَفْقَهُوهُ وَفِىٓ ءَاذَانِهِمْ وَقْرًۭا ۚ
وَإِن يَرَوْا۟ كُلَّ ءَايَةٍۢ لَّا يُؤْمِنُوا۟ بِهَا ۚ
And among them are those who listen to you, O Prophet (peace be upon you), but we have placed over their heart coverings so they do not understand it, and in their ears deafness.
And even if they see every sign, they will not believe in it – Surah Al-An’am, Verse 25
وَمَنْ أَظْلَمُ مِمَّن ذُكِّرَ بِـَٔايَـٰتِ رَبِّهِۦ
فَأَعْرَضَ عَنْهَا وَنَسِىَ مَا قَدَّمَتْ يَدَاهُ ۚ
إِنَّا جَعَلْنَا عَلَىٰ قُلُوبِهِمْ أَكِنَّةً أَن يَفْقَهُوهُ وَفِىٓ ءَاذَانِهِمْ وَقْرًۭا ۖ
وَإِن تَدْعُهُمْ إِلَى ٱلْهُدَىٰ فَلَن يَهْتَدُوٓا۟ إِذًا أَبَدًۭا
And who is more unjust than the one who is reminded of his Lord’s Messages but turns away from them, forgetting what he has done? We have placed veils over their hearts, so they do not understand and deafness in their ears. If you ask them to be guided, they will never be guided – Surah Al-Kahf, Verse 87
Deafness!
The verses were overwhelming to say the least. I knew Hell was not a pit of fire for me in the Afterlife. It was a burning right here in this world. It was being deprived of God which was in fact a state of humiliation (ruswai). It was not seeing His Signs, in the world or in the Quran with its layering of secrets and signs. It was not feeling His Presence. It was missing the point of being in the world. It was a perpetual state of denial of truth. By the heart, the eyes, the ears.
But it was the ears unable to hear that I found myself fixating upon. Qari Sahib summed it up in a line:
“Until the heart changes, listening is useless.”
It made sense from an entirely new angle why a person like me who read the Quran for years, took classes to understand its meaning for years, prayed for years and heard sermons for years remained stuck. The heart was still dark so the ears were listening but not. The truth of content in a speech or lecture might be undeniable. In the moment of hearing the speaker the words could induce a calm. The soul would feel happy.
Then as soon as the moment ended and life resumed, the dead heart took over everything again. It was like the listening didn’t even happen. I was on the giving and receiving end of that experience for a while. I used to share knowledge through lectures but then I stopped speaking before others and confined myself to writing. There seemed less falseness in that although I wonder about that too.
The other aspect of deadness of the heart that I became obsessed with had to do with good deeds becoming null and void. All people I knew, whether they were of a faith or not, especially the Muslims, we all had the impression that a good deed was a good deed and therefore it had merit that was assigned to it which held a reward and therefore would be given to all. Then one day recently by chance I was reading the Surah Muhammad. And verse after verse was stating the exact opposite of that hypothesis.
In a state of defiance, good deeds were in fact worthless.
ذَٰلِكَ بِأَنَّهُمُ ٱتَّبَعُوا۟ مَآ أَسْخَطَ ٱللَّهَ وَكَرِهُوا۟ رِضْوَٰنَهُۥ فَأَحْبَطَ أَعْمَـٰلَهُمْ
This is because they pursue what God condemns and hate what pleases Him. So he made their good deeds come to naught - Surah Muhammad, Verse 28
Tafseer e Jilani: “They deny guidance and turn their faces from it. There is no careful deliberation of the Quran’s lessons and advice beneficial in it for them. For the Quran is what connects with guidance and deliverance from the threats of the Day of Judgement so that one returns and turns away from the pursuit of sin. And doesn’t even take a step towards them. But their hearts are sealed with locks so there is no effect upon them from the Quran and its warnings.
They followed that which angered God, by turning away from the Path of Truth and not following the followers of the faith. They behaviour was based on their false desires. Instead of following Allah’s Wishes which He has sent upon His Prophets and His Books, they went against them.
Therefore it was the Right of God per His Wrath and Anger that the ability to approach the level of rewards for the good deeds was taken from them. So they fall short of the level where their reward is promised.”
I was fixated on the words for the translation of “ahbata” in reference to the deeds: “the coming to nothing.” Other words in translations were void, worthless, of no avail, failed, wasted, fruitless. What did it mean? I asked Qari Sahib.
First he gave me an example of a Prophet and his son. It was the Prophet Noah (as).
“The flood was going to hit the Earth and Hazrat Nuh’s (as) was not amongst those chosen to be saved from it. So the Prophet reminded God of it. What would happen to his boy? And Allah said:
قَالَ يَـٰنُوحُ إِنَّهُۥ لَيْسَ مِنْ أَهْلِكَ ۖ إِنَّهُۥ عَمَلٌ غَيْرُ صَـٰلِحٍۢ ۖ فَلَا تَسْـَٔلْنِ مَا لَيْسَ لَكَ بِهِۦ عِلْمٌ ۖ
إِنِّىٓ أَعِظُكَ أَن تَكُونَ مِنَ ٱلْجَـٰهِلِينَ
O Noah! Indeed he is not of your family for he was unrighteous in his conduct.
So do not ask me of which you don’t have knowledge. Indeed I admonish you lest you be of those who are unaware (of what is right) – Surah Hud, Verse 46
I looked up the Tafseer e Jilani to make sure I was reading it right. Allah was telling his beloved Prophet that his son was not of his family since he had rejected his faith. Why was he excluded from being from his clan? “Because the one who denies the truth (kafir) and the one who is a believer of it (mo’min) will not have sustained closeness or affection between them.”
The line gave me pause.
The relationships I was struggling with were ones where once we had been close. Then somewhere along the path of faith we parted. Now when I hung out with the same people, I was mostly sitting on eggshells that they would say something that would rile me. Not to do with religion but about anything. It wasn’t even so much what they said but the bravado they said it with that disturbed me. For hours later, if not days, I would be struggling with my feelings of negativity towards them. It wasn’t fun being in their company anymore and I had distanced myself from them. It was true. The affection for them was dissipating on my end.
Ghaus Pak (ra) says that the one who is not happy with you is not happy with God. So, he says, if one is not happy with their Creator, how can you expect them to be happy with anyone else? I inverted the words upon myself. If I was not happy with them anymore, beyond our differences, was I in some way also disconnected from God? If so, I knew the reason. Pride! It was my condescension towards them. At least my hardness towards them eased a little when I honed in on my own self. That was a plus!
Then God warned His Prophet to not ask him of which his knowledge is limited whereas Allah’s Knowledge possesses the reality of all. The Prophet Noah’s (as) response to the admonishment is one of my favourite prayers that I try to recite every day.
قَالَ رَبِّ إِنِّىٓ أَعُوذُ بِكَ أَنْ أَسْـَٔلَكَ مَا لَيْسَ لِى بِهِۦ عِلْمٌۭ ۖ وَإِلَّا تَغْفِرْ لِى وَتَرْحَمْنِىٓ أَكُن مِّنَ ٱلْخَـٰسِرِينَ
He, the Prophet Noah (as), said, “Oh my Lord! Indeed I seek refuge from You from asking of You anything of which I cannot have knowledge.
And unless You forgive me and You have mercy upon me, I will be among the lost. – Surah Hud, Verse 47
Qari Sahib went back to explaining why good deeds would bear no fruit if the doer of them was in a state of defiance. He gave me an excellent example: “Here in Pakistan, you have to get x marks in order to get admission into medical colleges. If you miss that entry by a single number, one mark, do you get in? No. You do not. All your years of study are wasted as far as the result you sought from them from it. It’s exactly the same thing. You worked, you tried but you did not reach the level that Allah has set in order to be rewarded.”
A few verses later again came the voiding of deeds.
إِنَّ ٱلَّذِينَ كَفَرُوا۟ وَصَدُّوا۟ عَن سَبِيلِ ٱللَّهِ وَشَآقُّوا۟ ٱلرَّسُولَ مِنۢ بَعْدِ مَا تَبَيَّنَ لَهُمُ ٱلْهُدَىٰ لَن يَضُرُّوا۟ ٱللَّهَ شَيْـًۭٔا وَسَيُحْبِطُ أَعْمَـٰلَهُمْ
Indeed those who are bent on denying the truth and barring others after guidance has been manifested upon them, never will they harm Allah and He will cause all their deeds to come to naught – Surah Muhammad, Verse 32
And again I read the exegesis of the verse in the Tafseer e Jilani: “They turn away while denying the truth in their zahir (overt) and batin (inner being). They accuse the Messenger (peace be upon him) of lying despite being given clear guidance in the form of the Quran revealed upon his heart and his miracles. But they cannot harm or benefit Allah for He is above it. So their deeds will be made of no value. The blessing they thought they would receive from their deeds is what is lost. For every deed has a reward or punishment.”
“But I thought all good deeds held some intrinsic value? How are they going to zero?” I found myself harping on, reminding Qari Sahib that he once gave me the verse that said just that.
فَٱسْتَجَابَ لَهُمْ رَبُّهُمْ أَنِّى لَآ أُضِيعُ عَمَلَ عَـٰمِلٍۢ مِّنكُم مِّن ذَكَرٍ أَوْ أُنثَىٰ ۖ
Then responded to them their Lord, "Indeed, I will not waste deeds of the doer among each of you (whether) male or female – Surah Aal e Imran, Verse 195
“Yes that is correct,” replied Qari Sahib. “But there is a condition for it.”
In Surah Al-Furqan, after the verse where punishment, disgrace and humiliation was promised for those who commit adultery, murder, and associate someone with God, definitely the major sins (Gunah e Kabeera), follows this one:
إِلَّا مَن تَابَ وَءَامَنَ وَعَمِلَ عَمَلًۭا صَـٰلِحًۭا فَأُو۟لَـٰٓئِكَ يُبَدِّلُ ٱللَّهُ سَيِّـَٔاتِهِمْ حَسَنَـٰتٍۢ ۗ وَكَانَ ٱللَّهُ غَفُورًۭا رَّحِيمًۭا
Except those who repent and attain to faith and do righteous deeds. Then for those Allah will replace their evil deeds with good ones. And Allah is Ever Forgiving, Most Merciful - Surah Al-Furqan, Verse 70
“Repentance (tauba) and bringing faith (imaan) are the conditions. Then the deeds might be converted. The deeds of those are lost who remain steadfast on the path of denial and die in that state.”
إِنَّمَا ٱلتَّوْبَةُ عَلَى ٱللَّهِ لِلَّذِينَ يَعْمَلُونَ ٱلسُّوٓءَ بِجَهَـٰلَةٍۢ ثُمَّ يَتُوبُونَ مِن قَرِيبٍۢ فَأُو۟لَـٰٓئِكَ يَتُوبُ ٱللَّهُ عَلَيْهِمْ ۗ وَكَانَ ٱللَّهُ عَلِيمًا حَكِيمًۭا
God’s acceptance of repentance is for those who do evil out of ignorance and then repent soon after. Then they will receive Allah’s Forgiveness upon them. And Allah is All-Knowing, All-Wise – Surah An-Nisa, Verse 17
Ghaus Pak says that the key to repentance is that a person feel ashamed and regretful. Regret only comes when the heart acknowledges the wickedness of disobedience. That is the tauba, the repentance, God accepts. This repentance comes from those who have faith but pursue sin. They are unaware of the harmful consequences of their acts and when they do become conscious of their error, they immediately repent and turn towards God. They do not wait till their dying breath.
Qari Sahib circled back to the beginning.
“The secret behind why this kind of repentance (nearing death) is not acceptable to God is that the tauba, the turning towards God has to come willingly.” But then he stressed, “And it is not for you and me to judge another’s willingness. It is Allah’s Prerogative and His alone.”
Ghaus Pak defines the willingness: “Repentance has to come intentionally with want for it to be accepted before God. The expression of repentance that comes out of compulsion (iztarar) and lack of choice (majboori) comes from a state in which the person does not possess the attribute of being a worshipper of Allah and being obedient to Him. Nor is there a desire for closeness to Him. In fact there is no difference between such a person who claims faith and an outright denier of truth who dies in a state of being an infidel. The torment then on the Day of Judgment is their deprivation of God’s Essence and His Rejection of them.”
While writing this piece, I shared my findings with one of my most spiritually elevated friends, Rashiqay, who was visiting me from Karachi. As an infant she was in an accident. As a result she lives with a physical disability in one leg and one hand. Then just this year she suffered two strokes. One of them left her in a wheelchair. The other caused facial paralysis. Six months later she was walking again. Her face was more gorgeous than ever. She was one of the most incredible human beings I have known in my life.
“The Quran says the reason the heart does not understand is that the person is missing faith and taqwa, which is not crossing boundaries defined by God. It seems the latter is harder…,” the Maulvi (clergy person in Islam) in me was about to drone on.
She didn’t even let me finish my sentence.
“No,” she said assuredly. “It’s both. They’re equally important.”
I was about to dive into my spiel of why it was not so much the first, since people claimed or at least believed they were of faith, when she stopped me dead in my tracks.
“The problem is not that people don’t believe in God. It is that people don’t have faith in themselves. The faith to change, to be different, in believing in themselves, in accepting that everything, good or bad, comes from God and must be borne without complaint. They want to do it. Often they even come across a way but then they just don’t see it happening for themselves. That makes them stuck where they are. They don’t move.”
I wonder if she even knew she was touching on a verse in the Quran.
مَآ أَصَابَ مِن مُّصِيبَةٍۢ فِى ٱلْأَرْضِ وَلَا فِىٓ أَنفُسِكُمْ إِلَّا فِى كِتَـٰبٍۢ مِّن قَبْلِ أَن نَّبْرَأَهَآ ۚ إِنَّ ذَٰلِكَ عَلَى ٱللَّهِ يَسِيرٌۭ
No misfortune occurs either on Earth on in your selves unless it is laid down in a decree before we bring it into being. Indeed for Allah that is easy – Surah Al-Hadid, Verse 22
لِّكَيْلَا تَأْسَوْا عَلَىٰ مَا فَاتَكُمْ وَلَا تَفْرَحُوا بِمَا آتَاكُمْ وَاللَّهُ لَا يُحِبُّ كُلَّ مُخْتَالٍ فَخُور
“We let you know this” so you do not grieve over what has passed you by nor do you exult over what you have gained. For God does not like the vain and the arrogant – Surah Al-Hadid, Verse 23
“Look at it this way,” Rashiqay continued. “You’re born. You have a set of parent. They bring you up a certain way. If you believe in the fact that you want better then you will go out of the house to achieve that betterment. Only when you widen your horizons then can you say, this decision was wrong.
You’ve lived it. Now you can address where it went south. But people don’t like to reverse decisions. Normally you would think that when you something doesn’t work, you try something different. But many people don’t. Think about it. What changed your life for you?”
I knew the answer to that. The first time my stuckness had shifted it was because of the Prophet (peace be upon him). It was when, as decades passed, I began seeing the aspects of my behaviour which were unchanging and rendering me misery. Not to mention others. I started studying the exact same aspect entirely missing in mine but present clear as day in Nabi Kareem’s (peace be upon him) person; in his words, his actions, his reactions. I began to study what I had been taught was his Sunnah in Arabic in Fes with my teacher.
Through that reading over years I understood the layering of different attributes and their application. It was how my journey of emulation of him began. In starts and stops!
Unsurprisingly in Surah Muhammad I also read that in his emulation lay the antidote for not making one’s deeds void. If one was aspiring for the title of mo’min, believer!
يَـٰٓأَيُّهَا ٱلَّذِينَ ءَامَنُوٓا۟ أَطِيعُوا۟ ٱللَّهَ وَأَطِيعُوا۟ ٱلرَّسُولَ وَلَا تُبْطِلُوٓا۟ أَعْمَـٰلَكُمْ
O ye who believed! Obey Allah and obey His Messenger (peace be upon him) and let not your deeds be in vain - Surah Muhammad, Verse 33
It was not lost on me that Allah was declaring the nullification of deeds, no matter what they were, as naught repeatedly in the Surah named after His Beloved (peace be upon him).
Then during Rabul Awwal this November, again courtesy of Uzair, I learnt in an entirely new way what the Sunnah of the Prophet was, beyond the narrow manner in which it is commonly defined.
“Sunnah is defined as propensity, deed. That is the traditional view. But it has a deeper spiritual dimension. More so that what the Prophet (peace be upon him) did. Let’s start with a verse from the Quran that is well known (ma’roof):
لَّقَدْ كَانَ لَكُمْ فِى رَسُولِ ٱللَّهِ أُسْوَةٌ حَسَنَةٌۭ لِّمَن كَانَ يَرْجُوا۟ ٱللَّهَ وَٱلْيَوْمَ ٱلْـَٔاخِرَ وَذَكَرَ ٱللَّهَ كَثِيرًۭا
Certainly, is for you in (the) Messenger (of) Allah an example good for one who has hope (in) Allah and the Last Day and remembers Allah much – Surah Al-Ahzab, Verse 21
Now the verse has been translated in the last 50 years with the addition of “his life” in brackets in many instances. Those who know Arabic know that the example lies not in his life, but in his essence (zaat). It’s not in the deed of the Prophet (peace be upon him), it’s in his entire being (wujood).
The Sufis give a beautiful example of this: the Sahaba, his Companions, used to wait ardently for Sharia’t (Islamic Law) to come so that they would follow it and become closer to God, be accepted by him. But the Sufis say that while the Companions waited for Sharia’t to come, Sharia’t itself waited for the Prophet of God (peace be upon him) to do something so that it would be granted creation (through his deed).”
Subhan Allah! No one seems to hold a deeper romantic sensibility than the Sufis when it came to love.
“The Quran is saying the exact same thing in the verse (above). Rasool is uswa e hasna, the best example. Then the Quran also says the same thing about the Prophet Ibrahim (as). And the Allah uses the exact same words. The best example is in his (the Prophet Ibrahim’s) essence, in his being and those who are with him (ma’hu).
قَدْ كَانَتْ لَكُمْ أُسْوَةٌ حَسَنَةٌۭ فِىٓ إِبْرَٰهِيمَ وَٱلَّذِينَ مَعَهُۥٓ
Indeed, there is for you an example good in Ibrahim and those with him – Surah Al-Mumtahinah, Verse 4
And then Allah says the same again a verse later, the best example also lies in “fihim,” “those with him.”
لَقَدْ كَانَ لَكُمْ فِيهِمْ أُسْوَةٌ حَسَنَةٌۭ لِّمَن كَانَ يَرْجُوا۟ ٱللَّهَ وَٱلْيَوْمَ ٱلْـَٔاخِرَ ۚ وَمَن يَتَوَلَّ فَإِنَّ ٱللَّهَ هُوَ ٱلْغَنِىُّ ٱلْحَمِيدُ
Here is a good example in them for you all, for anyone, who ties their hopes to God and the Last Day.
But if anyone turns away, God is Rich beyond Need, the Praiseworthy - Surah Al-Mumtahinah, Verse 6
And so the most excellent model is also in those who have their hopes tied to God (yarju Allah) and the Day of Judgement.”
I looked up the tafseer of the verse to understand a little more what having one’s hopes tied to God really meant. What was the expectation of the Day of Judgement?
Tafseer e Jilani: “The example is in those who is hopeful of standing in the ranks of those who Allah counts as the ones seeking His Pleasure and are in utter surrender before Him. And they believe that on the Last Day they will receive from God all that they have been promised by Him.”
Qari Sahib gave me an example of who these “others” were.
“Look what happened what Hazrat Ibrahim had a dream in which he saw himself slaughtering his only son. He shared the dream with Hazrat Ismail and what did his son so young say to him?”
فَلَمَّا بَلَغَ مَعَهُ ٱلسَّعْىَ قَالَ يَـٰبُنَىَّ إِنِّىٓ أَرَىٰ فِى ٱلْمَنَامِ أَنِّىٓ أَذْبَحُكَ فَٱنظُرْ مَاذَا تَرَىٰ ۚ
قَالَ يَـٰٓأَبَتِ ٱفْعَلْ مَا تُؤْمَرُ ۖ سَتَجِدُنِىٓ إِن شَآءَ ٱللَّهُ مِنَ ٱلصَّـٰبِرِينَ
Then when he reached with him the age of sharing his endeavours, the Prophet Ibrahim said, “O my son! Indeed, I have seen in the dream that I am sacrificing you, so see what you think.”
He, the Prophet Ismail (as) said, “O my father! Do what you are commanded.
You will find me, if wills Allah, of the patient ones.” – Surah As-Saffat, Verse 102
“He didn’t blink an eyelid. He simply acquiesced to what he thought was his Lord’s Pleasure even though it was for him to be killed.”
Uzair returned to the verse about Nabi Kareem (peace be upon him) to decode it; who amongst us was going to gain anything and benefit from this perfect manifestation of Allah’s Essence. He was highlighting the words in the verse which were the same as for Hazrat Ibrahim (as) and those with him: hope in Allah and the Last of days.
لَّقَدْ كَانَ لَكُمْ فِى رَسُولِ ٱللَّهِ أُسْوَةٌ حَسَنَةٌۭ لِّمَن كَانَ يَرْجُوا۟ ٱللَّهَ وَٱلْيَوْمَ ٱلْـَٔاخِرَ وَذَكَرَ ٱللَّهَ كَثِيرًۭا
Certainly, is for you in the Messenger of Allah an example good for one who has hope in Allah and the Last Day and remembers Allah much – Surah Al-Ahzab, Verse 21
“The Prophet of God (peace be upon him) will only be the exemplary model for those i.e. he will only be followed by those i.e. only those will be able to obey him who
1. Have their hopes tied with Allah alone
2. Believe in the Afterlife (the Day of Judgement)
3. Are conscious of God often
It is necessary to keep these conditions in your mind at all times. If you want to be amongst those who are even allowed his emulation.”
Suddenly it was apparent, the reason for the confining of ability (taufeeq)!
“Ability is confined to kufr, limited to hiding or denying the truth, either because we are inspired by Iblis’ whisperings or succumbing to the desires of our own ego, the nafs. Both of which veil a person from the sun of the reality of Truth.”
I had read the verse from Surah Al-Ahzab about Nabi Kareem (peace be upon him) as the one to emulate many times. I had used it in many of my pieces, more prominently in the preface of “The Softest Heart.” I had not known the same verse was in the Quran for Hazrat Ibrahim (as), nor those who were in his company. When Uzair stressed the need to remember the conditions that allow for emulation, I concentrated on them.
Somewhere in those three conditions is where I failed when my actions fell short and I fell into disobedience. Maybe if I could pin exactly where, I could be better in my effort. I had a feeling it was not being in a state of consciousness of God more often, more deeply.
Uzair explained the philosophy behind the concept: “So Sunnah is the zaat, the essence of the person. The basis of Sunnah is deed (amal). The basis of deed is intention (niyyat). The basis of intention is knowledge (ilm). The basis of ilm is understanding (shaoor). The basis of understanding is revelation (wahi). Or in inverse:
God – revelation – understanding – knowledge – intention – deed – Sunnah
So the way that I, Uzair, define Sunnah is that it is the Mercy (Rahmat) of God being sent to Creation through the being, the way of the Prophet (peace be upon him). There is a physical dimension since he was a human being. There is a spiritual dimension.”
Then he related a hadith.
وَعَنْ عَلِيٍّ رَضِيَ اللَّهُ عَنْهُ قَالَ: سَأَلْتُ رَسُولَ اللَّهِ صَلَّى اللَّهُ عَلَيْهِ وَسَلَّمَ عَنْ سُنَّتِهِ فَقَالَ
الْمَعْرِفَةُ رَأْسُ مَالِي
وَالْعَقْلُ أَصْلُ دِينِي
وَالْحُبُّ أَسَاسِي
وَالشَّوْقُ مركبي
وَذِكْرُ اللَّهِ أَنِيسِي
وَالثِّقَةُ كَنْزِي
وَالحُزْنُ رَفِيقِي
وَالْعِلْمُ سِلَاحِي
وَالصَّبْرُ رِدَائِي
وَالرِّضَاءُ غَنِيمَتِي
وَالْعَجْزُ فَخْرِي
وَالزُّهْدُ حِرْفَتِي
وَالْيَقِينُ قُوَّتِي
وَالصِّدْقُ شَفِيعِي
وَالطَّاعَةُ حَسْبِي
وَالْجِهَادُ خُلُقِي
وَقُرَّةُ عَيْنِي فِي الصَّلَاةِ
Hazrat Ali (ratu) asked the Prophet (peace be upon him), “What is your Sunnah?”
Nabi Kareem (peace be upon him) mentioned 17 things in his answer. Uzair highlighted three:
1. Al-hubbo asasi – Love is my foundation
2. Al-aqlo aslo deeni – The power to reflect is the source of my religion
3. Al-shauqo markabi – I ride the horse of longing (towards the meeting with my Lord)
“This brings me to when did Sunnah start and when did it end? And did it even end? Scholars think it started when he first received revelation at 40 and ended when he passed 23 years later. But I don’t agree with this. Of course we have the hadith:
I was a Prophet when Adam (as) was between clay and water
But let’s go back to the Quran to confirm the timeline of his being:
وَإِذْ أَخَذَ ٱللَّهُ مِيثَـٰقَ ٱلنَّبِيِّـۧنَ لَمَآ ءَاتَيْتُكُم مِّن كِتَـٰبٍۢ وَحِكْمَةٍۢ ثُمَّ جَآءَكُمْ رَسُولٌۭ مُّصَدِّقٌۭ لِّمَا مَعَكُمْ لَتُؤْمِنُنَّ بِهِۦ
وَلَتَنصُرُنَّهُۥ ۚ قَالَ ءَأَقْرَرْتُمْ وَأَخَذْتُمْ عَلَىٰ ذَٰلِكُمْ إِصْرِى ۖ
قَالُوٓا۟ أَقْرَرْنَا ۚ قَالَ فَٱشْهَدُوا۟ وَأَنَا۠ مَعَكُم مِّنَ ٱلشَّـٰهِدِينَ
And lo! God made His Covenant with the Prophets:
"If, after all the revelation and the wisdom which I have vouchsafed unto you, there comes to you an apostle, (the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him)), confirming the truth already in your possession, you must believe in him and succour him.”
Said He (Allah), “Do you acknowledge and accept My Bond on this condition?"
They (the Prophets) answered, "We do acknowledge it."
Allah said, "Then bear witness (thereto), and I shall be your Witness.”
فَمَن تَوَلَّىٰ بَعْدَ ذَٰلِكَ فَأُولَٰئِكَ هُمُ الْفَاسِقُونَ
And, henceforth, all who turn away (from this pledge),
it is they, they who are truly wicked!" - Surah Aal e Imran, Verse 81-82
Mufassareen have been confused about this verse as to when this moment happened. Was it on the Night of Mairaj when the Prophet lead the 124,000 prophets in Masjid e Aqsa? Was it before the creation of the Universe in the Realm of the Souls (Alam e Arwah)? Because Allah is saying they have to bring faith upon the Prophet (peace be upon him) and help him. But they all came after him so how are they supposed to help him?”
Here Uzair made a point that has millions in the Ummah tied up in knots; the asking of help from a person who is a Friend of God, who is no longer in the world.
“So if all the other Prophets have died and Allah is saying they have to help His Beloved (peace be upon him), then it means that asking for help from those who have passed is not apostasy, shirk, as so many preach today. In fact their not helping would be wrong as they clearly have been endowed from God Himself the means to help.
And if we assume it happens in the Realm of the Souls, then the verse testifies that the Sunnah of the Prophet begins before the Creation of the Universe.”
Remainder of piece at: www.flickr.com/photos/42093313@N00/50652933661/in/datepos...
St Mary and All Saints, Fotheringhay, Northamptonshire
As any experienced pub quizzer will be able to tell you, Cambridgeshire shares borders with more other counties than any other English county, and one of the pleasures of exploring its churches by bike is to occasionally pop over a border and cherry-pick some of the best churches nearby. I had long wanted to visit Fotheringhay in Northamptonshire, and it is only ten miles west of Peterborough, and so I thought why not? I could also take in its near neighbours Nassington and Warmington, both noted as interesting churches.
Fotheringhay is a haunted place. It is haunted by noble birth and violent death, by its pivotal importance as a place in 15th Century English politics, and by its desolation in later centuries - not to mention by one significant event in the last couple of years.
The view of the church from the south across the River Nene is one of the most famous views of a church in England - there can be few books about churches which do not include it. The tower is a spectacular wedding cake, the square stage surmounted by an octagonal bell stage. This is not an unusual arrangement in the area of the Nene and Ouse Valleys, but nowhere is it on such a scale and with such intricacy as this.
The nave is also vast, a great length of flying buttresses running above each aisle, and walls of glass, great perpendicular windows designed to let in light and drive out superstition. What you cannot see from across the river is that, behind the big oak tree, the church has no chancel.
Inside, it is a square box full of light divided by great arcades that march resolutely eastwards towards a large blank wall. Heraldic shields stand aloof up in the arcades, and the one fabulous spot of colour is the great pulpit nestled in the south arcade, another sign that this building was designed to assert the doctrine of the Holy Catholic Church. This place swallows sound and magnifies light. It is thrilling, awe-inspiring. What happened here?
In the medieval period, Fotheringhay Castle was the powerbase of the House of York. The church was built as a result of a bequest by Edward III, who died in 1370. It was complete by the 1430s, with a college of priests and a large nave for the Catholic devotions of the people.
Over the next century it would house the tombs of, among others, Edward of Norwich, 2nd Duke of York and grandson of Edward III who was killed in 1415 at Agincourt, and Richard Plantaganet, 3rd Duke of York, who was killed in the Battle of Wakefield in 1460. It was Richard's claim to the throne of England which had led to the Wars of the Roses. His decapitated head was gleefully displayed on a pike above Micklegate Bar in York by the victorious Lancastrian forces. Also killed in the battle was Richard's 17 year old son Edmund.
But the Lancastrian delight was shortlived, for by the following year Richard's eldest son had become King as Edward IV. He immediately arranged for the translation of the bodies of his father and brother from their common grave at Pontefract back to Fotheringhay.
It was recorded that on 24 July the bodies were exhumed, that of the Duke garbed in an ermine furred mantle and cap of maintenance, covered with a cloth of gold lay in state under a hearse blazing with candles, guarded by an angel of silver, bearing a crown of gold as a reminder that by right the Duke had been a king.
On its journey, Richard, Duke of Gloucester, with other lords and officers of arms, all dressed in mourning, followed the funeral chariot, drawn by six horses, with trappings of black, charged with the arms of France and England and preceded by a knight bearing the banner of the ducal arms.
Fotheringhay was reached on 29 July, where members of the college and other ecclesiastics went forth to meet the cortege. At the entrance to the churchyard, King Edward waited, together with the Duke of Clarence, the Marquis of Dorset, Earl Rivers, Lord Hastings and other noblemen. Upon its arrival the King made obeisance to the body right humbly and put his hand on the body and kissed it, crying all the time.
The procession moved into the church where two hearses were waiting, one in the choir for the body of the Duke and one in the Lady Chapel for that of the Earl of Rutland, and after the King had retired to his closet and the princes and officers of arms had stationed themselves around the hearses, masses were sung and the King's chamberlain offered for him seven pieces of cloth of gold 'which were laid in a cross on the body.
The sorrowing Edward IV donated the great pulpit for the proclamation of the Catholic faith. And then in 1483 he died. He was succeeded as tradition required by his son, the 12 year old Edward V. But three months after his father's death the younger Edward was also dead, in mysterious circumstances. He was succeeded by his uncle, who had been born here in Fotheringhay in 1452, and who would reign, albeit briefly, as Richard III.
Was Richard III really the villain that history has made him out to be? Did he really murder his nephew to achieve the throne? Within two years he had also been killed at the Battle of Bosworth Field, and the Lancastrians were finally triumphant. Henry VII established the Tudor dynasty, and, as we all know, history is written by the victors, not by the losers.
But Fotheringhay had one more dramatic scene to set in English history before settling back into obscurity, and this time it involved the Tudors. In September 1586 a noble woman of middle years arrived at Fotheringhay Castle under special guard, and was imprisoned here. Her name was Mary, and she was on trial for treason.
It is clear today that most of the evidence was entirely fictional, but the powers of the day had good reason to fear Mary, for she had what appeared to many to be a legitimate claim to the English throne. She was the daughter of James V of Scotland, and had herself become Queen of Scotland at the age of just six weeks. She spent her childhood and youth in France while regents governed the nation in her stead, and she married Francis, the Dauphin of France, who became King of France in 1559. Briefly, Mary was both Queen of Scotland and Queen Consort of France, but in 1561 Francis died, and Mary returned to Scotland to govern her own country.
But there was a problem. Mary was a Catholic. Scotland had led the way in the English-speaking Reformation with a particularly firebrand form of Calvinism, and the protestant merchants of Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen and Dundee were aghast at the prospect of a Catholic monarch.
And there was a further problem. Scotland was currently at peace with its neighbour England, where Queen Elizabeth I had brought some stability to the troubled country. But the Catholic Church did not recognise Elizabeth as the rightful monarch of England, because it was considered that her father Henry VIII's divorce from his first wife Katherine of Aragon was invalid. As he had divorced Katherine to marry Elizabeth's mother Ann Boleyn, Catholics considered that the rightful line of succession had passed horizontally from Henry VIII to his deceased elder sister and then on to her descendants, the most senior of whom was Mary, Queen of Scotland.
Mary remarried in Scotland, but her husband was murdered, and she was forced to abdicate her throne in favour of their one year old baby. He would be brought up by protestant regents and advisors, and would reign Scotland as James VI. His protestant faith allowed the English crown to recognise the line's legitimate claims, and in 1603 James VI of Scotland became James I of England, the first monarch to govern both nations.
But that was all in the future. After her abdication, Mary fled south to seek the protection of her cousin Elizabeth. She spent most of the next 18 years in protective custody. A succession of plots and conspiracies implicated her, and finally on 8th February 1587, at the age of 44, Mary Queen of Scots was beheaded at Fotheringhay Castle.
One of her son James's first acts on ascending the English throne was to order that the castle where his mother had been shamefully imprisoned and executed be razed to the ground.
The chancel of Fotheringhay church and its College of Priests were already gone by then, demolished after the Reformation, leaving the York tombs exposed to the elements. it is said that Elizabeth herself, on a visit to Fotheringhay in 1566, insisted that they be brought back into the church.
Fotheringhay church settled back into obscurity. During the long 18th Century sleep of the Church of England it suffered neglect and disuse, but was restored well in the 19th Century. A chapel was designated for the memory of the York dynasty during the 20th Century, a sensitive issue for the Church of England which does not recognise prayers for the dead, but they can happen here in the Catholic tradition.
Today, the population of Fotheringhay cannot be much more than a hundred, an obscure backwater in remote north-east Northamptonshire, consisting of little more than its grand church set above the water meadows of the River Nene. But there was one more day in the public light to come.
In 2012, an archaeological dig in the centre of the city of Leicester, some 30 miles from here, uncovered a skeleton which had been buried in such a manner that it seemed it might be the dead King Richard III. Carbon dating and DNA matching proved that it was so. A controversy erupted about where the dead king might be reburied. Leicester Cathedral seemed the obvious place, although pompous claims were made by, among others, the MP for York, for him to be buried in York Minster. But there was also a case for the remains being returned here, to the quiet peace of Fotheringhay.
In the event reason held sway and Richard was reburied in Leicester, but Fotheringhay church, along with Leicester Cathedral, York Minster and Westminster Abbey, was one of four sites to host books of remembrance for Richard III.
In June 2015 I was surprised to find that the book here was still in use at the west end of the nave, and is still regularly signed by people. Perhaps they think it is the visitors book.
The silence of the church and the quiet peace of the graveyard are in dramatic contrast to the sensationalism of the media over the controversy and the razzamatazz of Richard's reburial in Leicester Cathedral. But now the circus has moved on, and Fotheringhay is still here. And white roses are scattered in the church every year on Richard III's birthday.
Being able to see Darth Vader and some Stormtroopers in person still gives me a big thrill! I have been a Star Wars fanatic since the first movie came out, and still cannot get enough of it!
Finally, I'm able to show you some pics of my new Jasmine 17 inch LE doll. I hope you like her. She looks 100% better in real life xD. I regret not buying her when she originally came out, so I had to buy her from Ebay >_<.... but she was totally worth it!! :D yayyyy!!
BRIEFING WITH LINDA THOMAS-GREENFIELD, ASSISTANT SECRETARY FOR AFRICAN AFFAIRS
MODERATOR: So welcome to the New York Foreign Press Center. We’re really honored today to have Assistant Secretary for African Affairs Linda Thomas-Greenfield with us. This is a roundtable on-the-record discussion. It’s also DVCed to Washington --
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Okay.
MODERATOR: -- so if people have questions from Washington, we’ll bring them in.
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Okay.
MODERATOR: So I know that the assistant secretary is on a tight schedule, so we’ll go ahead and get started. She’ll give a few remarks and then we’ll open it out to your questions. So thank you all for coming and I’ll turn this over to Assistant Secretary Linda Thomas-Greenfield.
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Good. Good evening and let me thank all of you for being here and thank those who are joining us from Washington. This has been a very, very hectic period at UNGA this year. Being here with so many leaders from throughout the African continent has provided us a fantastic opportunity to have a series of bilateral meetings and provide us an opportunity to strengthen our relationships with African heads of state, and I’m pleased that so many of them are here, and we’ve been able to discuss discrete ideas that allow us to collaborate on issues that we’ve worked on in the past, but also to advance our own goals of promoting democracy, peace, and prosperity on the continent. So I’m very excited about the opportunities that I’ve had. We refer to this in Washington as speed dating. Last year, I had – I think, if I recall correctly – 39 bilats during UNGA week. We have not counted yet. I started last week, Friday, and we have been going nonstop since then and it continues for me until Friday.
Just to say there have been a number of very positive developments on the continent of Africa since last year. President Obama’s trip to Kenya and to Ethiopia this summer was a historic trip for many reasons. He opened the Global Entrepreneurship Summit and that gave entrepreneurs from across the globe an opportunity to see Africa at its best, to see Kenya at its best, to seek opportunities to invest on the continent.
The recent reauthorization of the Africa Growth and Opportunity Act was a big success and it sent a very strong signal to investors and showed confidence in the possibilities of investing on the continent of Africa. As you know, we had the good fortune of the Gabonese Government hosting the AGOA Forum in Gabon at the end of August and it was quite successful. It was extraordinary that we had members of Congress participate in the forum, and that AGOA is a bipartisan, very widely supported initiative that we have on the continent, and we had several members of Congress at the forum to reflect that view.
Looking ahead, we will continue to focus on the importance of strong democratic institutions and solid performance in the area of governance, which is essential, in our view, to security and prosperity across the continent of Africa. Many African countries will conduct parliamentary elections and presidential elections over the coming months, and certainly quite a few are occurring in 2016. So we will be working with African countries to support on-time, free, peaceful, and fair elections.
The Sustainable Development Goals under discussion here at UNGA remind us of the challenges the continent faces. Africa is the youngest and it is the fastest growing continent. Incomes are rising and the middle class is growing, but Africa will need to generate millions more jobs to sustain its momentum. So to help create these jobs, we’ll continue to work with our partners to build up the investment and entrepreneurship climate and encourage more trade with Africa.
All of our discussions here at UNGA have focused on taking advantage of the progress we’ve made to solve some of the hard problems we will face, and this is the core of our engagement with our African colleagues this week. Of course, there are a number of things happening on the continent right now that has keen interest for us. I’ll look forward to taking your questions. I think in the question and answers we’ll get to those difficult issues, and I’ll be able to address those then.
So thank you very much, and I’m happy to take your questions.
MODERATOR: Yes.
QUESTION: Bingxin Li from People’s Daily, based at the UN. I understand that President Obama initiated the Power Africa strategy several years ago. How is that going on?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: It’s going quite well. The idea was to bring power to Africa. As you know, sometimes I refer to the fact that (inaudible) refer to as the dark continent. What that darkness means is the lack of electricity, and the idea of Power Africa was to bring power to more African homes and more African businesses. We tripled this to bring electricity to at least 60 million new households and businesses and to encourage more companies, as well as other governments, to look at power as a source of prosperity (inaudible) on the continent of Africa.
So (inaudible) I was just meeting with European colleagues, and they’re looking at doing some similar investments on the continent of Africa. And we know that power or energy will be the engine of investment and growth on the continent.
MODERATOR: Yes.
QUESTION: I have half a dozen questions.
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Try one at a time. (Laughter.)
MODERATOR: If everyone could introduce yourself – say your name and news organization.
QUESTION: Right. So I’m Kevin Kelley. I’m based here in New York. I cover the UN for the Nation Media Group in Kenya, which also publishes The East African weekly paper covering the eastern half of the continent. So my questions are mainly about that, not about Kenya per se. I’ll choose the one about the DRC. At the Africa Summit, which is now 14 months ago – President Obama’s summit in Africa --
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Yes, a little over a year.
QUESTION: Ambassador – yeah, right. Ambassador Feingold was saying it’s urgent that there be action now against the FDLR. Then there was all these complications involving human rights questions and the generals in command. Nothing’s happened as far as anybody can see. What’s the U.S.’s view of what can and should be happening there now?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Well, first of all, we’re very disappointed that nothing has happened. We think that the parties need to address the FDLR threat in DRC. Commitments were made to the Rwandan Government, as we worked to address the issues related to M23, that once we completed the actions against M23 we would turn to FDLR, and we are still committed to doing that. We’re encouraging all of the parties, including the Government of DRC, MONUSCO, the FB forces, to bring their combined resources together to address the FDLR threat and we continue to push that.
We have named a new special envoy, Tom Perriello, and he has been actively engaged on this issue since taking over his responsibilities about six weeks ago.
QUESTION: Just to --
MODERATOR: And he’ll be here at 4 o’clock today.
QUESTION: Yeah, he’ll be here. Just to follow up on that, can the United States bring pressure to bear on President Kabila? This is the issue. It’s that the UN says we can’t act because of these human rights violations that these generals are at least alleged to have committed. It’s fairly simple, it seems, that if these generals weren’t in command, the UN, the FIB, could act. Is that too simple an analysis?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: It probably is, but I would make those same arguments as well that it ought to be simple to deal with this issue. And it is one that, again, we are working very deliberately and very intensely on, because commitments were made that we would work to address this issue, and we need to get the parties to do it.
QUESTION: Hi, I’m Bukola Shonuga with the African View Network, and I also host a radio program called The African View – and it’s a pleasure to meet you. So with reference to Nigeria within your Administration and in light of the issue of Boko Haram, I was just wondering are there any new efforts form the United States Government to partner with this new administration to combat Boko Haram? And with the 20-some – 200-something girls still missing, so we don’t think they’ll ever find them, so I just wanted you to shed some light on that.
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: I hope you’re wrong. I know that their mothers, their parents are still hopeful that some of these girls will be found and brought back to their homes. And we’re not going to give up hope and working with the Nigerian Government and with the families to try to bring as many of them back as we can.
We are working very closely with the Nigerian Government, as we were with the previous government. It is has been made somewhat easier with the current government to work more cooperatively on trying to address the Boko Haram threat. We have provided some assistance and funding to the multinational task force through the AU. They are working to pull together the Lake Chad Basin countries so that they can coordinate their efforts in addressing Boko Haram.
We still continue to cooperate with the Nigerian Government in terms of information sharing as well as training. Our AFRICOM team will be going to Nigeria later in the month to hold discussions on resuming the training that was stopped previously, and we hope to continue to work with the government in a much more positive and proactive way to address what is not just a Nigeria problem. It is a regional problem, and terrorism is a global problem. So we have to work with Nigeria. We cannot leave Nigeria to address this problem alone.
QUESTION: Thank you.
QUESTION: Frank Obimpeh from News Ghana. During your submission, you said that the U.S. is trying to build investment and climate of opportunities for Africans. Now let’s come back to my country, Ghana, whereby while we have a lot of malls – new malls going around, where we have foreign products in the malls. So there is what’s called a tendency of our culture families losing bias or their products. What is the U.S. doing, because the investment are taking jobs from the African and then they becoming poor? What are you doing to overcome?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Yeah. Well, I think investment can create jobs. So having greater investment in Ghana can create new job opportunities for people in areas that they may not have worked in in the past. But we don’t want to see trade opportunities and business displace people who already have jobs. And it is important that government policies support their own local industry, encourage the local industries. But also the local industries have to be competitive. They have to be able to compete on a global market. They have to be able to compete with the products that are being sold in large department stores if they want to advance.
People – I remember working on a program in Liberia where people were making small products and making additional money, and we talked to them. And they said, oh we were making it before you came and supported our project. We were making about $50 a month, and now we’re making $80 a month. Well, they’re still poor. What we want to do is move people from being the working poor to being the working middle class, so that they can benefit from the investments that are coming from overseas, but also they can take their products and sell their products overseas so that they become part of the working middle class.
So it’s not an easy – the answer is not easy, but it is not about keeping new products from coming into your market. It’s about making the products that are produced in your country more competitive. AGOA offers the opportunity for Ghanaians to import their products to the United States duty-free, and Ghana has taken advantage of that.
QUESTION: Thank you, Ms. Ambassador. I just wanted to thank you for all your work. My name is Garry Iwele. I’m a freelance from DRC. And my question is just about the upcoming election. We know that eight of the – eight of some of the African countries go into the election next year. And the president are trying to run again against the constitution. So we saw it in (inaudible) a bit already; it’s sending people to the referendum. And now there is a piece of legislation in DRC under the table trying to do the same thing. I mean, my question is this: What you’re doing as U.S. Government? We know that you are the biggest partner in Africa. What are you doing to push those presidents to not try to run again –
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Our policy – yeah.
QUESTION: -- when the constitution does not allow them?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Yeah, our policy is very clear on that. We do not support countries changing their constitutions to change term limits to benefit the incumbent who is currently serving in office. People can change their constitutions; that’s their right. But when the constitutions are changed just to support the incumbent, it sends a message that people don’t want to leave power. And Africa has gone through many generations of presidents for life, and we believe in a true democracy, transitions actually work. We think transitions contribute to stability. There are a number of countries in Africa that have had elections and transitions, and they’ve worked. Nigeria is our most recent example where it has worked.
So we are engaging with these governments to discourage their efforts to change constitutions. We are working closely with the regional organizations, with the African Union, with ECOWAS, and other regional organizations, to gain their support in pushing for this. ECOWAS, for example, has been looking at an agreement that would limit terms to two terms in ECOWAS countries. And actually, they went quite far, except two countries declined to agree. But I think it’s something they’re still working on.
People support democracy. Africans line up to vote like no other countries in – that I’ve seen in the world. And when they – when African people are given the opportunity in their individual countries to express their will at the ballot box, they do it. They do it enthusiastically. And so we want to support those efforts, and we are very clear on our policy. No country gets a pass on this. We raise it with every country where we see there are issues. And we certainly have had that discussion with DRC, with Republic of Congo, with Rwanda, and with Burundi, even though they did succeed in pushing forward an election that we believe was not transparent, that led to the president being elected for a third term against their constitution.
QUESTION: Hi, I just wanted to go back to the AGOA issue. I mean, in Africa, across the world, youth employment continues to be a major issue. And in Nigeria 60 percent of the youth are unemployed, according to the recent presentation by President Buhari. I was just wondering, how does AGOA translate into job gain for the youth in – across Africa?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Yeah. We believe, actually, AGOA creates jobs both in Africa and in the United States because it allows for increased export products that are produced in your countries that are allowed into the U.S. duty-free. And so it does create jobs. But ultimately what will create jobs in Africa is investments in Africa, more companies creating opportunities for jobs, better education for young people so that they are qualified for the many job opportunities that will open up. The situation in Nigeria exists across the continent, where you have populations that are very, very young, and they need to be supported.
We have an initiative called the Young African Leaders Initiative, or the Washington Mandela Fellowship Program, where over the past two years we’ve brought 500 a year young people across the continent. Next year we will be bringing 1,000. They do a six-week leadership program at a major university in the United States and then they have a one-week summit in Washington in which President Obama and senior leaders across the U.S. Government participate. The first year of this program, when we were only choosing 500, we had 50,000 completed applications. There is intense desire, there is intense hunger on the continent of Africa by young people to get the tools that they need to be successful in the future.
So this is a challenge for African governments. It is a challenge for them to figure out how they engage with their young people, how they support their young people, and what tools they give to them so that they are able to be successful in the future. Some countries have raised questions about the Young African Leaders Initiative. I had one country suggest to us that we were brainwashing Africa’s young. And my response to that is you should not be worried about the U.S. brainwashing your young; you should be worried about Boko Haram brainwashing your young, you should be worried about al-Shabaab brainwashing your young, you should be worried about ISIL brainwashing your young.
What we’re trying to do is give them the tools so that they can be successful in the future, they can hone the leadership skills they already have to contribute to their governments. And what we’ve seen so far with the 1,000 who have gone through this program is they will be great in the future, whether they are great teachers, university professors, businesspeople, politicians. Whatever field of endeavor they’re involved in, they’re going to be good. And we’ve given them just a little bit more in terms of leadership tools to sharpen their skills to help them be successful in the future.
QUESTION: Thank you.
QUESTION: Do you know if any private sector initiative, for instance, that could facilitate funding for the private sector in Africa that are trying to create employment for these – because the programs for the most part on the U.S. – from the U.S. side is government – government initiatives. But we feel that private sector is actually more powerful or maybe just as powerful.
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Well, we certainly work very closely with the private sector, and in terms of promoting the capacity of businesses in Africa – when I was in Nigeria, I visited a company that was being run by a young woman that produced animal feed, and she had been a Young African Leader, a Mandela Washington Fellow, and her – she got a small grant from the African Development Foundation, used that grant to improve the packaging for her products, and her products are competing with products that are coming from overseas. And she’s doubled the number of employees in a very short, short period of time.
So sometimes it just is small investments. Similar to what is being done by the African Development Foundation, USAID supports capacity building for small companies. We have trade hubs that are in Ghana and in Kenya that support businesses that want to do business with the United States. So there are many opportunities there, but there’s – the challenges are huge and it’s going to take a lot more effort on all of our parts.
QUESTION: Thank you.
MODERATOR: We only have time for a couple of questions, so maybe Kevin and then we want to give PK a chance.
QUESTION: Okay, thanks a lot. So I’ll combine two into one, and they both relate to President Obama’s initiative regarding peacekeeping the other day. So – and the British prime minister announced that they’re going to send troops to Somalia and Sudan. Would the United States consider doing that? Specifically also, there’s always complaints by AMISOM and others that they lack airpower especially to combat Shabaab. The United States has engaged with airpower in Somalia, but could you do more? Could you supply helicopters, transport planes? And the same – in the same vein, with South Sudan, would the United States consider sending peacekeeping troops to South Sudan?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: I think on the – to answer your last question first, it is not something that we normally do, but we do support peacekeeping efforts quite extensively. We’re the largest funder of peacekeeping. And through our Africa training initiative, we’ve trained more than 250,000 African peacekeepers and we will continue those efforts to train. In addition to training them, we equip them. And we have provided them with airpower, and we’re looking at how we can provide additional enablers such as air to Ugandan and Kenyan and Ethiopian troops in Somalia. We’re working very, very closely with the AMISOM troops in Somalia in terms of helping to build up the capacity of the Somali national army. So we’re there as well, working to support the efforts of peacekeeping.
We were very pleased by the results of the peacekeeping conference. There were huge commitments that were made. The next step is to get those commitments honored. But again, I think this was responded to in a very serious way. And we look forward to working with these governments, particularly for myself on the continent of Africa, where we’ve had African countries that have very, very graciously and generously contributed to peacekeeping.
QUESTION: But the United States would not send troops to South Sudan?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: I – it’s not something that I’m aware that we have considered. But I certainly know that we will support the efforts.
QUESTION: I’d like to ask something regarding health in Africa. I’m from Ghana. Ebola never got to Ghana thankfully. And one of the things that Ebola exposed was the health structures in Africa. I’m sure you’re aware of this. In the aftermath of Ebola, if I could say that there still nothing has been done – I can speak for Ghana. And I know that the U.S. is a major contributor in terms of resources and personnel to the health systems in Africa. Do you ever get tired that you do all these things and African governments don’t respond – (laughter) – and do the updates? I mean, are you impressing on them to do something actually on the ground?
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Yeah. I never get tired. (Laughter.) No, let me be clear. We have worked with governments, and a lot has been done. We have signed an agreement with the African Union to help them to develop a center for disease control, an African center for disease control. CBC has also worked with African governments to support their efforts to address responses to infectious diseases. And in the case of Nigeria, where we did have Ebola cases, the Nigerians were able to control this because they had an effective CBC-like operation that they had worked over many years to develop. And we’re working with Ghana as well on developing that capacity.
Still, there’s tremendous additional effort that will be required in terms of building Africa’s health infrastructure. What Ebola showed us is that infrastructure is extraordinarily fragile and any infectious disease that occurs on the continent can really force a total collapse. And we saw that collapse take place in the three Ebola countries. So we are more than engaged on trying to address these issues across the continent, because you can’t do it just in one country. You have to work in all the countries to ensure that any type of infectious disease doesn’t go – doesn’t cross borders, because they don’t recognize borders. And we certainly saw that in the case of Ebola.
But we’ve had Ebola-like diseases in Central Africa for many, many years, and it’s been kept under wraps. So there are – there is some progress being made, but I agree with you: A lot more needs to be done. But we can’t get tired, because if we get tired, we will be defeated. And I’m not prepared and I don't think our Center for Disease Control that is intensely engaged in this – that any of us are prepared to declare defeat at this point.
MODERATOR: I understand the Assistant Secretary is on a really tight schedule and I’ve been asked to go ahead and end the briefing. Thank you so much for coming. We’re so happy to have you, and it’s been a wonderful discussion.
ASSISTANT SECRETARY THOMAS-GREENFIELD: Thank you very much. And thanks to all of you.
# # #
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2015, 2:00 P.M. EDT
NEW YORK FOREIGN PRESS CENTER, 799 UNITED NATIONS PLAZA, 10TH FLOOR
I love being able to plug in the headphones and flick the mp3 player on to shuffle. It sometimes creates a weird mixture of tunes but today it excelled itself with a stunning selection of songs that I couldn't have picked better myself.
I enjoyed it so much that I had to write down the track list before I forgot it.
Porcupine Tree - Harmony Korine
Morrissey - Let me kiss you
Andrea Bocelli - Melodramma
Nine Inch Nails - Head Down (binary beat mix)
Devo - Pink Pussycat
Takagi Masakatsu - J.F.P.
The Reindeer Section - You are my joy
Heaven 17 - Let's all make a bomb (remix)
Rush - Subdivisions
Skin - Movin'
Public Image Limited - Love Song
Clash - Police on my back
John5 - Monsters and gods
Led Zeppelin - Bonzo's Montreux
Magazine - Sweetheart Contract
The Czars - Kilipy
Photo taken through Glass!
Snow Leopard
Able to leap 50 feet horizontally! Able to jump 20 feet vertically! It's a bird! It's a plane! No, it's a snow leopard! This species, like the clouded leopard, is one of those that is somewhere between the small cats and the great cats in that it can't purr like the small cats and it can't roar like the true great cats. It makes a happy sound similar to the tiger's chuffing.
Its greatest threats are the hunting of its main prey species in the mountains, and the poisoning of other of its prey species, leaving the snow leopard with out a means of sustaining itself. There is also a demand now for snow leopard bones in traditional Chinese medicine as a substitute for tiger bones. Unfortunately, there is still a demand for fur coats from snow leopard skins in some countries, but luckily that has greatly diminished. At one time here in the US, a coat from a snow leopard sold for up to $50,000.00.
Zoological name: Panthera uncia
Species: The Snow Leopard are a single species - There have been some attempt to recognize different sub-species of snow leopard. No subspecies of snow leopard are recognised, insufficient information exists to determine significant differences between wild populations.
Presence on the planet: Snow leopards live in the mountain regions of central Asia. Their habitat consists of alpine meadows and rocky areas from the Hindu Kush, the Karakorum, southwest Ladakh, and Kashmir up onto the Tibetan plateau and north to the Pamirs, Tien Shan, the Altai and Sayan mountains and the Russo-Mongolian border; and east to Nepal, Bhutan and the Gansu, Quinghai and Sichuan provinces of China. They are found as far east as western Baikal in Siberia.
Habitat: The snow leopard ranges includes alpine meadows, treeless rocky mountains and rhododendron forests. Most of their range occurs in Tibet and other parts of China associated with steep rocky slopes, with arid shrub land, grassland or steppe vegetation. Occasionally, in parts of their habitats they visit open coniferous forests, but generally avoid dense forests. They are found at high elevations of 3000-4500 meters (9800 ft ? 14800 ft.), and even higher in the Himalayas.
Physical appearance: Snow leopards are generally smaller than true leopards, and their tails are characteristically much longer. Their heads are notably more rounded than those of common leopards. Females are smaller than males.
Physically, snow leopards are completely adapted to moving in a montane environment. Their feet act like large snowshoes and their legs are designed for jumping. The hind legs are longer than the fore legs. Snow leopards have very large nasal cavities to enable them to efficiently utilise the oxygen in the thin, cold and dry air of high altitudes.
Snow leopards' eyes have round pupils unlike domestic and the other small cats. Anterior upper premolars are present. Panthera cats have cartilaginous portions in their hyoid apparatus, a series of skeletal elements which support the base of the tongue. In the smaller cats, the hyoid is completely ossified or bony.
Diet: The snow leopard eats wild sheep, wild boars, gazelles, hares, markhor, bobak, tahr, marmots, mice and deer. The snow leopard is a carnivore, which means that it eats meat. The snow leopard can eat an animal three times the size of itself. The male eats the prey it kills; if he sees his family, he will back off and leave as they eat. The snow leopard will drag the carcass of a large animal to its marked territory and eat it over several days.
Conservation status: Snow leopard fur is extremely beautiful, as a consequence, it is very much in demand. Persecution in conjunction with low population densities, habitat destruction and local animosity, is taking them near to extinction.
I have been able to get a few shots of wood mice in the garden recently. D7100_15449.NEF. Many thanks for views, comments and favourites.
Our shirtless shackled hero - or villain? - in the allegorical representation of the executive branch lacks a nipple.
Artisans capable of producing such a splendid mosaic should have been able to depict a nipple had they been directed to - or would it have disrupted the flowing lines of tiles that give the surfaces a sense of topographic relief?
According to the Iowa legislature's Web site,
"Six mosaics in arched panels are located directly above the mural painting Westward, located on the east side of the Capitol's third floor. The mosaics were made in Venice, Italy, out of tiles of glass. Frederick Dielman of New York created the mosaics, installing them at the Capitol in 1908. The mosaics depict Defense, Charities, Education, and the Executive, Legislative and Judicial branches of government. Dielman was paid $10,000 to create this work of art, the last artwork to be installed in the Capitol."
"The following, taken from the book The Iowa Capitol: A Harvest of Design, was written regarding the mosaics:
'The reason for using mosaics instead of paint, was to get as much of an architectural feeling in these panels as possible, and to avoid conflict or rivalry between them and the mural, Westward, directly below. Another reason was to give the Dielman mosaics carrying power enough to overcome the extra distance from the spectator. It will be observed that the mosaics have been made to take up the color and feeling of the architecture about them. . .' "
For even more information about the mosaics, please go to:
www.legis.iowa.gov/DOCS/LSA/Tidbits/2012/TBJMA014.PDF
You'll be glad you did.
Concerning the artist, Wikipedia tells us:
"Frederick Dielman (25 December 1847 – August 25, 1935) was an American portrait and figure painter."
"He was born in Hanover, Germany. He was taken to the United States in early childhood. He graduated from Calvert College in New Windsor, Maryland, in 1864, and from 1866 to 1872 served as a topographer and draughtsman for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in Fortress Monroe and Baltimore, and in the survey of canal routes over the Alleghanies in Virginia. He then studied under Wilhelm von Diez at the Royal Academy at Munich where he received a medal in the life class."
"He opened a studio in New York City, where he worked at first as an illustrator of books and magazines, and became a distinguished draughtsman and painter of genre pictures. He was one of the original members of the Society of American Artists, was made a National Academician in 1883, and was also a member of the American Water Color Society, the New York Etching Club, and the Salmagundi Sketch Club. He was president of the Arts Federation of New York."
"In 1899, he was elected president of the National Academy of Design. In 1903, Dielman became professor of drawing at the College of the City of New York and about the same time was made director of the art schools at Cooper Union."
"He made major contributions to deluxe editions of works by Longfellow, Hawthorne, George Eliot, and other writers, and to the various publications of the Tile Club, of which he was a member. His mural decorations and mosaic panels for the Library of Congress in Washington are notable. Among his pictures shown at National Academy exhibitions were 'The Patrician Lady' (1877), 'Young Gamblers' (1885), and a 'Head' (1886). One of the best known of his illustrations is that entitled 'A Girl I Know.' "
Igtham is well known, at least the nearby moated manor house, Igtham Moat. The village is well travelled through, and many stop here because it is chocolate box picture perfect.
I stopped here at about half ten on a Saturday morning, the place should have been packed with tourists, maybe it will once the pub opens for lunch, but I was able to park in the picturesque village square, take a few shots of the timber-framed buildings, and walk up the hill to the church.
From the lych gate I could see the porch door open, so my hopes were raised, and indeed the church was open, un-manned, and the lights came on, triggered by a pressure pad in the porch.
This I did not know until the lights went out after ten minutes, I went out to find the light switches, returned and the lights were back on.
Upon entering the church, your eyes are drawn to large and impressive memorials on the right hand side of the Chancel, two lying armoured male figures have relaxed for four hundred years, on the east wall, a severe female glares down as she has done since the 17th century.
And in an alcove on the north side, a 14th century knight, covered in armour lies with a lion at his feet.
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The church is built on a steep hillside and displays a rare brick-built north aisle. The chancel is full of unusual memorials, the most noteworthy of which is to Sir Thomas Cawne dating from the end of the fourteenth century. He is wearing armour and chain mail and lies under a canopy beneath a window that forms part of the same composition. In the churchyard is a nice nineteenth-century tomb designed by the famous architect William Burges. The other monuments of note at Ightham are all to the Selby family, the most famous of whom is Dorothy Selby (d. 1641) who is reputed to have had a connection with the Gunpower Plot, although the ambiguous inscription on her tomb is now believed to be no more than an appreciation of her needlework.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Ightham
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IGHTHAM.
WESTWARD from Wrotham lies IGHTHAM, so corruptly called for Eightham, which name it had from the eight boroughs or hams lying within the bounds of it, viz. Eightham, Redwell, Ivybatch, Borough-green, St. Cleres, the Moat, Beaulies, and Oldborough. (fn. 1) In the Textus Roffensis it is spelt EHTEHAM.
THE PARISH of Ightham for the most part is in the vale between the chalk and the sand or quarry hills, tho' it reaches above the former northward. Near the chalk hill, and for some distance southward the same soil prevails, thence it is an unsertile deep sand, and at the boundaries towards Shipborne a deep clay and heavy tillage land; from hence, and its situation, however healthy it may be, it is by no means a pleasant or a profitable one. The parish is very narrow, little more than a mile in width, but from north to south it extends near five miles, from Kingsdown, above the hills, to Shipborne, its southern boundary. At the foot of the chalk hill and north-west boundary of this parish, is the mansion of St. Clere, and not far from it Yaldham; about a mile from which is Ightham-court, and at a little distance further southward is the church and village, situated on the high road from Maidstone to Sevenoke and Westerham, which here crosses this parish by the hamlet of Borough-green, and the manor of Oldborough, or Oldbery, as it is now called, with the hill of that name, belonging to Richard James, esq. of this parish, in this part, and by Ivy-hatch plain, there is much rough uninclosed waste ground, the soil a dreary barren sand, consisting in this and the adjoining parish, of several hundred acres, being in general covered with heath and furze, with some scrubby wood interspersed among them. At the southern extremity of the parish, next to Shipborne, and adjoining to the grounds of Fairlawn, is the seat of the Moat, lowly situated in a deep and miry soil. A fair is kept yearly in this parish, upon the Wednesday in Whitsun week, which is vulgarly called Coxcombe fair.
The Roman military way seems to have crossed this parish from Ofham, and Camps directing its course westward through it. The names of Oldborough, now called Oldberry-hill, and Stone-street in it, are certain marks of its note in former times.
At Oldberry-hill there are the remains of a very considerable intrenchment, which is without doubt of Roman origin. It is situated on the top of the hill, and is now great part of it so overgrown with wood as to make it very difficult to trace the lines of it. It is of an oval form, and by a very accurate measurement, contains within its bounds the space of one hundred and thirty-seven acres. Just on the brow of the hill is an entrance into a cave, which has been long filled up by the sinking of the earth, so as to admit a passage but a very small way into it, but by antient tradition, it went much further in, under the hill.
The whole of it seems to have been antiently fortified according to the nature of the ground, that is, where it is less difficult of access by a much stronger vallum or bank, than where it is more so. In the middle of it there are two fine springs of water. The vast size of this area, which is larger even than that at Keston, in this county, takes away all probability of its having been a Roman station, the largest of which, as Dr. Horsley observes, that he knew of, not being near a tenth part of this in compass. It seems more like one of their camps, and might be one of their castra æstiva, or summer quarters, of which kind they had several in this county. An intrenchment of like form seems to have been at Oldbury hill, in Wiltshire, which the editor of Camden thought might possibly be Danish. There are remains of a Roman camp at Oldbury, in Gloucestershire, where the pass of the Romans over the Severn, mentioned by Antonine, is supposed to have been by Camden. And at Oldbury, near Manchester, in Warwickshire, are such like remains.
IGHTHAM was held in the reign of king Henry III. by Hamo de Crevequer, who died possessed of it in the 47th year of that reign, anno 1262, leaving Robert, his grandson, his heir. By his wife, Maud de Albrincis, or Averenches, he had also four daughters, Agnes, wife of John de Sandwich, Isolda, of Nicholas de Lenham; Elene, of Bertram de Criol; and Isabel, of Henry de Gaunt.
Robert de Crevequer left one son, William, who dying without issue, his inheritance devolved on the children of three of the daughters of Hamon de Crevequer, as above-mentioned, Agnes, Isolda, and Elene, and on the division of their inheritance, Ightham seems to have fallen to the share of Nicholas, son of Bertram de Criol, by his wife Elene, above-mentioned. He was a man greatly in the king's favour, and was constituted by him warden of the five ports, sheriff of Kent, and governor of Rochester castle. By Joane his wife, daughter and sole heir of William de Aubervill, he had Nicholas de Criol, who had summons to parliament, and died in the 31st year of king Edward the 1st.'s reign, possessed of this manor, which his heirs alienated to William de Inge, who held it in the first year of king Edward II. and procured free-warren for his lands in Eyghtham, (fn. 2) and in the 9th year of it, a market here, to be held on a Monday weekly, and one fair on the feast of the apostles, St. Peter and St. Paul. In which last year he was constituted one of the justices of the common pleas. (fn. 3) He bore for his arms, Or, a chevron vert. On his death, in the 15th year of that reign, anno 1286, Joane, his daughter, married to Eudo, or Ivo la Zouch, the son of William, lord Zouch, of Harringworth, by Maud, daughter of John, lord Lovel, of Tichmarsh, became entitled to it.
His descendants continued in the possession of this manor till the reign of king Henry VII. when it was alienated to Sir Robert Read, serjeant at law, afterwards made chief justice of the common pleas, (fn. 4) who died in the next reign of king Henry VIII. leaving by Margaret, one of the daughters and coheirs of John Alphew, esq. of Chidingstone, one son, Edmund, one of the justices of the king's bench, who died before him in 1501, and also four daughters, who became his coheirs, and on the partition of their inheritance this manor was allotted to Sir Thomas Willoughby, (fn. 5) in right of Bridget his wife, the eldest of them. He was in the 29th year of king Henry VIII. promoted to the office of chief justice of the common pleas, and in the 31st year of it, he, among others, procured his lands to be disgavelled by the act then passed for that purpose. He left Robert his son and heir, who alienated this manor to William James, third son of Roger James, of London, who was of Dutch parentage, and coming into England in the latter end of the reign of king Henry VIII. was first as being the descendant of Jacob Van Hastrecht, who was antiently seated at Cleve near Utrecht, called after the Dutch fashion Roger Jacobs, and afterwards Roger James, alias Hastrecht. This Roger James, alias Hastrecht, had several sons and one daughter. Of the former, Roger, the eldest, was of Upminster, in Essex, whose descendants settled at Ryegate, in Surry. William, was of Ightham, as before mentioned; Richard had a son, who was of Creshell, in Essex; John was of Woodnesborough, in this county, and George was of Mallendine, in Cliff, near Rochester. William-James, the third son of Roger as before-mentioned, resided at Ightham-court, as did his son William James, esq. who was a man much trusted in the usurpation under Oliver Cromwell, as one of the committee members for the sequestration of the loyalists estates, during which time he was in five years thrice chosen knight of the shire for Kent. His son Demetrius was knighted, whose son William James held his shrievalty for this county here in 1732. He left by his wife, daughter of Demetrius James, esq. of Essex, two sons, Richard his heir, and Demetrius, late rector of this parish, and a daughter married to Mr. Hindman. He died in 1780, and was succeeded by his eldest son Richard James, esq. now of Ightham-court, and the present possessor of this manor. He is colonel of the West-Kent regiment of militia, and is at present unmarried. The original coat of arms of this family of Haestrecht was, Argent, two bars crenelle, gules, in chief three pheons sable; which arms, without the pheons, are borne by the several branches of James, quartered with, Argent, a chevron between three fer de molins transverse, sable.
ST. CLERES, alias West Aldham, situated in the borough of the latter name, is a manor and seat in the north-west part of this parish, adjoining to Kemsing, which was formerly called by the latter name only, and was possessed by a family of the same denomination, who bore for their arms, Azure, a pile, or.
Sir Thomas de Aldham was owner of it in the reign of king Richard I. and was with that king at the siege of Acon, in Palestine. His descendant Sir Thomas de Aldham, possessed this manor of Aldham in the reign of king Edward II. and dying without male issue, his three daughters became his coheirs, the eldest of whom married Newborough, called in Latin de Novo Burgo, of Dorsetshire; Margery married Martin Peckham, and Isolda was the wife of John St. Clere, and on the division of their inheritance this manor fell to the share of John St. Clere, who possessed it in his wife's right. (fn. 6)
John de St. Clere, written in Latin deeds De Sancta Claro, died possessed of it in the beginning of king Edward III. leaving Isolda his wife surviving, on whose death John St. Clere, their son, succeeded to this manor, which from this family now gained the name of Aldham St. Cleres, and in process of time came to be called by the latter name only, and their descendants continued in possession of this manor till the beginning of the reign of king Henry VII. when it was alienated to Henry Lovel, who left two daughters his coheirs; Agnes, who married John Empson, cousin to Sir Richard Empson, the grand projector; and Elizabeth, married to Anthony Windsor.
John Empson conveyed his moiety of it, in the 8th year of king Henry VIII. to Sir Thomas Bulleyn, afterwards created earl of Wiltshire and Ormond, and father of the lady Anne Bulleyn, wife to Henry VIII. (fn. 7) and Anthony Windsor, in the 10th year of that reign, passed his moiety away by sale to Richard Farmer, who that year purchased of Sir Thomas Bulleyn the other part, and so became possessed of the whole of this manor of St. Cleres. In the 28th year of that reign, Richard Farmer conveyed it to George Multon, esq. of Hadlow who removed hither. He bore for his arms, Or, three bars vert; being the same arms as those borne by Sir John Multon, lord Egremond, whose heir general married the lord Fitzwalter, excepting in the difference of the colours, the latter bearing it, Argent, three bars, gules. His grandson Robert Multon, esq. was of St. Cleres, and lies buried with his ancestors in this church. He alienated this manor and estate, in the reign of Charles I. to Sir John Sidley, knight and baronet, a younger branch of those of Southfleet and Aylesford, in this county, who erected here a mansion for his residence, which is now remaining. He was descended from William Sedley, esq. of Southfleet, who lived in the reign of king Edward VI. and left three sons, of whom John was ancestor of the Sedleys, of Southfleet and Aylesford; Robert was the second son, and Nicholas the third son, by Jane, daughter and coheir of Edward Isaac, esq. of Bekesborne, afterwards married to Sir Henry Palmer, left one son, Isaac Sidley, who was of Great Chart, created a baronet in 1621, and sheriff of this county in the 2d year of Charles I. whose son Sir John Sidley, knight and baronet, purchased St. Cleres, as above-mentioned. (fn. 8) He left two sons, Isaac and John, who both succeeded to the title of baronet. The eldest son, Sir Isaac Sidley, bart. succeeded his father in this estate, and was of St. Cleres, as was his son, Sir Charles Sidley, bart. who dying without issue in 1702, was buried in Ightham church. By his will he devised this manor, with the seat and his estates in this parish, to his uncle John, who succeeded him in the title of baronet, for his life, with remainder to George Sedley, his eldest son, in tale male. But Sir Charles having been for some time before his death, and at the time of his making his will of weak understanding, and under undue influence, Sir John Sedley contested the validity of it, and it was set aside by the sentence in the prerogative court of Canterbury.
Soon after which Sir John, and his son George Sedley above-mentioned, entered into an agreement, by which Sir John Sedley waved his right as heir at law, and his further right to contest the will. In consequence of which an act of parliament was obtained for the settling in trustees the manor of West Aldham, alias St. Cleres, with its appurtenances, and the capital messuage called St. Cleres, in Ightham, and other messuages and lands in Ightham, Wrotham, Kemsing, Seal, &c. that they might be sold for the purposes of the agreement, which the whole of them were soon afterwards to William Evelyn, esq. the fifth son of George Evelyn, esq. of Nutfield, in Surry, who afterwards resided here, and in 1723 was sheriff of this county.
He married first the daughter and heir of William Glanvill, esq. and in the 5th year of king George I. obtained an act of parliament to use the surname and arms of Glanvill only, the latter being Argent, a chief indented azure, pursuant to the will of William Glanvill, esq. above-mentioned. By her he had an only daughter Frances, married to the hon. Edward Boscawen, next brother to Hugh, viscount Falmouth, and admiral of the British fleet. His second wife was daughter of Jones Raymond, esq. who died in 1761, by whom he had William Glanvill Evelyn, esq. who on his father's decease in 1766, succeeded to St. Cleres and the rest of his estates in this county. In 1757 he kept his shrievalty at St. Cleres, where he resides at present, and is one of the representatives in parliament for Hythe, in this county.
He married about the year 1760, Susan, one of the two daughters and coheirs of Thomas Borrett, esq. of Shoreham, late prothonotary of the court of common pleas, by whom he had a son, William Evelyn, esq. who died in 1788 at Blandford-lodge, near Woodstock, by a fall from his horse, æct. 21, and unmarried; and a daughter Frances, afterwards his sole heir, married in 1782 to Alexander Hume, esq. of Hendley, in Surry, brother of Sir Abraham Hume, who in 1797 had the royal licence to take and use the name and arms of Evelyn only, and he now resides at St. Clere.
THE MOAT is another borough in this parish, in which is the manor and seat of that name, lying at the southern extremity of it next to Shipborne, which in the reign of king Henry II. was in the possession of Ivo de Haut, and his descendant, Sir Henry de Haut, died possessed of it in the 44th year of Edward III. as appears by the escheat roll of that year. His son, Sir Edmund de Haut, died in his life-time, so that his grandson, Nicholas Haut, became his heir, and succeeded him in the possession of this estate. (fn. 9)
He was sheriff in the 19th year of king Richard II. and kept his shrievalty at Wadenhall, in this county. He left two sons, William, who was of Bishopsborne; and Richard Haut, who succeeded him in this estate, and was sheriff in the 18th and 22d years of king Edward IV. keeping both his shrievalties at this seat of themoat; but having engaged, with several others of the gentry of this county, with the duke of Buckingham, in favor of the Earl of Richmond, he was beheaded at Pontefract, anno 1 Richard III. and afterwards attainted in the 3d year of that reign, and his estates confiscated. (fn. 10) Quickly after which, this manor and seat were granted by that king to Robert Brakenbury, lieutenant of the tower of London, and that year sheriff of this county. He kept possession of the Moat but a small time, for he lost his life with king Richard in the fatal battle of Bosworth, fought that year on August 22, and on the Earl of Richmond's attaining the crown was attainted by an act then passed for the purpose, and though his two daughters were restored in blood by another act four years afterwards, yet the Moat was immediately restored to the heirs of its former owner Richard Haut, whose attainder was likewise reversed, and in their descendants it remained till the latter end of the reign of king Henry VII. when it appears by an old court roll to have been in the possession of Sir Richard Clement, who kept his shrievalty at the Moat in the 23d year of king Henry VIII and bore for his arms, A bend nebulee, in chief three fleurs de lis within a border, gobinated. He died without any legitimate issue, and was buried in the chancel of this church. Upon which his brother, John Clement, and his sister, married to Sir Edward Palmer, of Angmering, in Sussex, became his coheirs, but the former succeeded to the entire fee of this estate.
John Clement died without male issue, leaving an only daughter and heir Anne, who carried the Moat in marriage to Hugh Pakenham, and he, in the reign of king Edward VI. joining with Sir William Sydney, who had married Anne, his only daughter and heir passed it away to Sir John Allen, who had been of the privy council to king Henry VIII. and lord mayor of London in the year 1526 and 1536. He was of the company of mercers, a man of liberal charity. He gave to the city of London a rich collar of gold, to be worn by the succeeding lord-mayors: also five hundred marcs as a stock for sea coal, and the rents of those lands which he had purchased of the king, to the poor of London for ever; and during his life he gave bountifully to the hospitals, prisons, &c. of that city. He built the mercers chapel in Cheapside, in which his body was buried, which was afterwards moved into the body of the hospital church of St. Thomas, of Acon, and the chapel made into shops by the mercer's company. He bore for his arms, In three roundlets, as many talbots passant, on a chief a lion passant guardant between two anchors. (fn. 11)
He left a son and heir Sir Christopher Allen, whose son and heir, Charles Allen, esq. succeeded his father in this estate, and resided at the Moat, which he afterwards sold at the latter end of the reign of queen Elizabeth to Sir William Selby, younger brother of Sir John Selby, of Branxton, in Northumberland. He resided here in the latter part of his life, and died greatly advanced in years in 1611, unmarried, and was buried in this church, bearing for his arms, Barry of twelve pieces, or and azure. He by his will gave this estate to his nephew, Sir William Selby, who resided here, and died likewise without issue, and by his will, for the sake of the name gave the Moat to Mr. George Selby, of London, who afterwards resided here, and was sheriff in the 24th year of king Charles I. and bore for his arms, Barry of eight pieces, or and sable. He died in 1667, leaving several sons and daughters. Of whom William Selby, esq. the eldest son, succeeded to this estate, and was of the Moat. He married Susan, daughter of Sir John Rainey, bart. of Wrotham, by whom he had several children, of whom John Selby, esq. the eldest son, was of the Moat, and by Mary his wife, one of the three daughters and coheirs of Thomas Gifford, esq. left two sons, William, who succeeded him in this seat and estate at Ightham, and John Selby, esq. who was of Pennis, in Fawkham, and died unmarried.
William Selby resided at the Moat, of which he died possessed in 1773, leaving his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Mr. Burroughs, surviving, who afterwards possessed this seat and resided here. She died in 1788, and her only son, William Selby, esq. of Pennis, having deceased in 1777, and his only daughter and heir likewise, Elizabeth Borough Selby, by Elizabeth his wife, one of the daughters of John Weston, esq. of Cranbrook, under age, and unmarried in 1781. This seat, with her other estates in this county, devolved to John Brown, esq. who has since taken the name of Selby, and now resides at the Moat, of which he is the present possessor.
The park, called Ightham park, has been already mentioned under the parish of Wrotham, to which the reader is referred.
It appears by the visitation of 1619, that there was a branch of the Suliards, of Brasted, then residing in this parish.
John Gull resided in this parish in the reign of king Henry VIII. and died here in 1547.
Charities.
HENRY PEARCE gave by will in 1545, to be distributed to the poor in bread yearly the annual sum of 6s. 8d. charged on land now vested in Cozens, and she gave besides to be distributed to the poor in bread at Easter yearly, 40l. now of the annual produce of 2l. and for the providing of books for poor children to learn the catechism, the sum of 10l. now of the annual produce of 10s.
HENRY FAIRBRASSE gave by will in 1601, to be distributed in like manner, the annual sum of 1l. to be paid out of land now vested in William Hacket.
WILLIAM JAMES, ESQ. gave by will in 1627, to be distributed in bread to the poor every Sunday, the annual sum of 2l. 12s. to be paid out of lands now vested in Rich. James, esq.
GEORGE PETLEY gave by will in 1705, to be distributed in like manner, every Sunday, 2s. the annual sum of 5l. 4s. to be paid out of land vested in William Evelyn, esq.
ELIZABETH JAMES, gave by will in 1720, for the education of poor children, the annual sum of 5l. to be paid out of land now vested in Elizabeth Solley.
IGHTHAM is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Rochester, and being a peculiar of the archbishop, is as such in the deanry of Shoreham.
¶The church is dedicated to St. Peter. Under an arch on the north side of it, there is a tomb of free stone, having on it a very antient figure at full length of a man in armour, ornamented with a rich belt, sword and dagger, his head resting on two cushions, and a lion at his feet, over his whole breast are his arms, viz. A lion rampant, ermine, double queued. This is by most supposed to be the tomb of Sir Thomas Cawne, who married Lora, daughter and heir of Sir Thomas Morant. He was originally extracted from Staffordshire: he probably died without issue, and his widow remarried with James Peckham, esq. of Yaldham. His arms, impaling those of Morant, were in one of the chancel windows of this church.
The rectory is valued in the king's books at 15l. 16s. 8d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 11s. 8d. It is now of the yearly value of about 200l.
The patronage of this rectory seems to have been always accounted an appendage to the manor of Ightham, as such it is now the property of Richard James, esq. of Ightham-court.
These are some more shots of my Tour to Europe in Sept - Nov 2012. I has been a while since I last saw them.. great to be able to catch up on them at last!
On our tour of Valencia, on my Cosmos tour, October 15, 2012.
The Metropolitan Cathedral–Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady of Valencia
alternatively known as Saint Mary's Cathedral or Valencia Cathedral, is a Roman Catholic parish church in Valencia, Spain. It was consecrated in 1238 by the first bishop of Valencia after the Reconquista, Pere d'Albalat, Archbishop of Tarragona, and was dedicated by order of James I the Conqueror to Saint Mary.
It was built over the site of the former Visigothic cathedral, which under the Moors had been turned into a mosque. Gothic architecture, in its Catalan or Mediterranean version, is the predominant style of this cathedral, although it also contains Romanesque, French Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Neo-Classical elements.
One of the supposed Holy Chalices in the world is revered in one of this cathedral's chapels; this chalice has been defended as the true Holy Grail; indeed, most Christian historians all over the world declare that all their evidence points to this Valencian chalice as the most likely candidate for being the authentic cup used at the Last Supper. It was the official papal chalice for many popes, and has been used by many others, most recently by Pope Benedict XVI, on July 9, 2006. This chalice dates from the 1st century, and was given to the cathedral by king Alfonso V of Aragon in 1436.
The cathedral contains numerous 15th-century paintings, some by local artists (such as Jacomart), others by artists from Rome engaged by the Valencian Pope Alexander VI who, when still a cardinal, made the request to elevate the Valencian See to the rank of metropolitan see, a category granted by Pope Innocent VIII in 1492.
Most of Valencia Cathedral was built between the 13th century and the 15th century, and thus its style is mainly Gothic. However, its construction went on for centuries. As a consequence there is a mixture of artistic styles, ranging from the early Romanesque, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical.
Excavations in the adjacent Almoina Archaeological Centre have unearthed the remains of the ancient Visigothic cathedral, which later became a mosque. There is documentary evidence that some decades after the Christian conquest of the city (1238), the mosque-cathedral remained standing, even with the Koranic inscriptions on the walls, until 22 June 1262, when the then bishop, Andreu d'Albalat resolved to knock it down and build a new cathedral in its place, according to the plans of the architect Arnau Vidal.
Stones from neighboring quarries in Burjassot and Godella were used to build the cathedral, but also from other more distant quarries such as those in Benidorm and Xàbia, which came by boat.
Some reasons for the simplicity and sobriety of Valencia Cathedral are that it was built quickly to mark the Christian territory against the Muslims, and that it was not a work by a king, but by the local bourgeoisie.
For More Info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valencia_Cathedral
24 hours before, I had not heard of Frenze, or knew that it lay in Norfolk. A friend had posted a shot of St Andrew from the air, and finding that it ay within 2 miles of the A143, and a short detour from the route, I thought I would go
I was stuck in a long line of traffic leading into Diss, but able to take a turning to the right off the main road, then take a left turn along a farm track. The sat nav suggested it was some distance off.
Through fields and through a wood, until the road stopped at a farmyard with some abandoned industrial units and a farmhouse. But beyond was St Andrew.
Small, and perfectly formed, St Andrew reminded me of several of the untouched two cell Norman churches back in Kent, a church and yet so much like a farm building too.
St Andrew despite being small has lots of interest; ancient glass, unusual box pews, a formidable pulpit, a grand coat of arms and two good brasses.
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The heaviest snow in East Anglia that winter fell in early March. We had a new car to try out - we hadn't planned on this, but the previous one had died on the way back from Cambridge, the camshaft exploding into the engine and causing several thousand pounds worth of damage. After a few sleepless nights, we decided to cut our losses, and so here we were on an icy Sunday afternoon threading through wide flat fields to the hills near the border.
We parked near an old maltings which styled itself 'Diss Business Centre'. That town was just over the rise, but in fact we could have been miles away, in the middle of nowhere. There was no one about as we set off on foot along a track into the woods towards Frenze Hall.
The winter was at its barest. Although most of the snow had now melted, nothing had yet regrown after the winter silence. A few miserable birds chattered at us, a rabbit bolted. the coop coop of an occasional pheasant came from the copse. Eventually, the track came out into an empty farmyard, apparently abandoned, although the farm house was still occupied, and in one corner of the yard, on a rise behind an old wooden fence, sat the church of St Andrew, Frenze.
St Andrew is a curious looking structure. Effectively, it is just the small nave of a formerly longer church, propped up but still leaning all over the place. Obviously redundant, it is in the tender care of the Churches Conservation Trust (the key hangs outside the farmhouse door during daylight hours) and would just be a beautiful, unspoiled hidden corner of Norfolk if it were not for one very curious thing - this church has no less than seven figure brasses, more than just about any other church in East Anglia, as well as other memorial inscriptions. An extraordinary find in such a place.
They are all between eighteen and twenty-four inches tall. Mostly, they are to the Blenerhaysett, or Blennerhassett, family and their relatives - a most un-East Anglian name; in the Paston letters, Sir John scoffs that Ralph Blenerhaysett is a name to start a hare. They came from Cumbria, and were Lords of the Manor here. Six of the figures are still in situ on the floor. They are (top row above) vowess Joan Braham, died 1519, in cloak and girdle; Jane Blenerhaysett, 1521, in kennel headdress; John Blenerhaysett, her husband, also 1521, in armour, with sword; the already mentioned Ralph Blenerhaysett, 1475, in full mail. The first and last in the second row are an exquisite shroud brass to Thomas Hobson, and Anne Duke, also in a kennel headress. Other inscriptions also survive, and there are replicas of others on the wall. As I say, extraordinary stuff.
Even if there were no brasses, you would want to come here. Although the porch, font and a few other features survive from medieval times, the overwhelming flavour of the inside is of the 17th century - a silvery white family pew faces across to the contemporary pulpit, clearly by the same hand.
Everything is simple, but touched down the long years - the plain altar, bearing a medieval mensa, is typical of this. Boards from a royal arms hang above the south door - were they once overpainted with something else? There are two piscinas set into windowsills, one each side of the nave. Two smug little monkeys on a single bench stare out at all of this. What a special place.
Simon Knott, March 2005
www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/frenze/frenze.htm
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Was always one manor, (fn. 1) which in King Edward's time was held by Edric, (fn. 2) of Edric, for one carucate; and in the Conqueror's time by Hubert, of Robert Malet, lord of Eye; it was then worth 15s. per annum, being five furlongs long, and four broad, and paid 3d. Danegeld.
It was always held of Eye honour at one quarter of a knight's fee, and paid x.s. relief. I do not meet with any lords' names (fn. 3) before 1280, (fn. 4) when John de Ludham was lord and patron, whose family took their sirname from a village so called in Suffolk, in Wilford hundred, (fn. 5) which they held many ages. In 1297, it was settled on
William de Ludham, and Alice his wife, and John their son, and his heirs. In 1329,
Joan, wife of Sir John Ludham, and John Lowdham, Knt. son of Thomas, was 21 years old, and held this manor; and in 1336, purchased several large parcels of land of Ralph de Shimpling, and Katerine his wife, being the first of this family that had Boyland's manor; both which, together with this advowson, in 1343, they settled by fine on themselves, and the heirs of John; Edmund de Ufford le Frere, and Peter de Teye, being feoffees. In 1351,
Sir John, son and heir of Sir John de Lowdham, and Joan his wife, held this and Boyland manor in Osmundeston, Frenze and Stirston; he died in 1355, and Joan his wife had it to her death in 1371, and held it of Edmund, son of Sir Thomas de Ufford, lord of Eye.
John, son of Thomas de Lowdham, Knt. inherited, and died in 1373; and
Sir Thomas de Lowdham, Knt. brother and heir of John, son of Thomas, son of John, and Joan his wife, held it, jointly with Maud his wife; he died in 1385, and
Sir Robert Corbet, senior, Knt. held it, as guardian to John Lowdham, who dying, left it to his wife;
And in 1401, the lady which was the wife of Sir Robert Corbet, senior, Knt. held Boyland's in dower, and Sir Robert Corbet, junior, her son, held Frenze, during the minority of John Lowdham, son of Thomas de Lowdham and Maud his wife, who, when his father died, was but seven years old. This John died 28th April, 1428; Alice his wife surviving him: he left only one daughter,
Joan, then 14 years old, married to Thomas Hevenyngham, Esq. and after that to Ralph Blaverhasset, Esq. both which she outlived, not dying till June 20, 1501, being 97 years of age: she was seized of Boyland's, the other moiety of which was granted by John Lowdham to John Woodhouse.
John Blaverhasset was her son and heir, being 77 years old at his mother's death. This is a very ancient family, taking their name from Bleverseta, or Bleverhayset, in Cumberland, where the eldest branch continued a long time. In 1382, Alan Bleverhasset was mayor of the city of Carlisle, as was John, in 1430. (fn. 6) In 1412, Ralph Bleverhayset was parliament-man for that city, and so was Thomas, in 1584. In 1510, this John died, in the 87th year of his age, seized of Frenze, and a moiety of Boyland's; he had two wives; Jane daughter of Thomas Heigham of Heigham Green in Suffolk, Esq. by whom he had SirThomas, his son and heir, now 49 years of age; and Jane, daughter of Sir Thomas Tindall of Hockwold in Norfolk, Knt. He came from South-hill in Bedfordshire, to Frenze, which estate he gave to John, his son by his second wife, who dying without issue, it was divided among his four sisters,Margaret, married to Robert Warner of Besthorp, after to William Drury of the same; Jane, to Sir Phillip Calthorp; Anne, to Sir Henry Grey of Wrest in Bedfordshire, Knt.; Ellen to Miles Hobert of Plumstede in Norfolk, Esq. second son of Sir James Hobart, Knt.
Sir Thomas died seized of Frenze and Boyland's, June 27, 1531, leaving
George, his eldest son by his first wife, his heir: he died in 1543, and by his will gave Frenze to Margaret his wife for life, and Boyland's moiety to Mary, his daughter and heiress, then married to Thomas Culpepper, Esq. she being to have Frenze also at Margaret's death. This Mary, by fine, settled Frenze on
Francis Bacon, Esq. her second husband, and Edmund his son, for their lives, both which had it, Edmund Bacon of Harleston being seized of it in 1572: after whose death it reverted to
John Bleverhasset, who had enjoyed Boyland's ever since the death of the said Mary. This John was brother to George, her father: he sold the moiety of Boyland's to Sir Thomas Cornwaleis, Knt. and his heirs, but Frenze continued in this family; for in 1587,
George Bleverhasset held it; and in 1595,
Samuel Bleverhasset. How or when it went from this family I do not find; but in 1666, 24th Nov.
Richard Nixon, Esq. died seized, and.
Richard was his son and heir, whose son, Diamond Nixon, sold it to
Sir Robert Kemp, Bart. whose son, Sir Robert, is now lord and patron. [1730.]
The Church is a small building, of equal height, covered with tile; and having no steeple, the bell hangs on the outside of the roof, at the west end: there is no partition between the church and chancel, but there is a beam fixed across the east chancel window, on which the rood was conveniently placed. The church is about 24 yards long, and 7 yards wide; the south porch is tiled. It is dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle, (fn. 7) as appears from the will of Ralph Bleverhasset, who desired to be buried in the chancel of St. Andrew at Frenze. The meanness of the fabrick hath preserved the inscriptions from being reaved, for it looks like a barn, at a distance. In the chancel, according to his will, is buried Ralph Bleverhasset, Esq. whose effigies, standing upon a lion, still remains on a stone, and this inscription:
Hic iacct venerabilis Uir Radulphus Bleverhansett Armiger qui obiit riiio die Mensis Novembris Ao dni. Mo CCCC lrrbo. cuisu Anime propicietur Deus Amen.
There are four shields still remaining.
1. Bleverhasset with an annulet quartering Orton;
2. Ditto impaling Lowdham;
3. As the second;
4. Lowdham single.
The inscription for his wife is now lost, but was, as we learn from Mr. Anstis's MSS. (marked G. 6, fol. 39.) as follows:
Here lyeth Mrs. Joane Bleverhasset, the Wife of Ralph Bleverhasset, Esq. the Daughter and Heir of John Lowdham, who died the 20th Dan of June 1501.
The same MSS. hath the following inscription, now gone:
"Here lyeth the venerable Gentleman John Blaverhasset, Esq; who died the 27th of March, in the Year of our Lord, 1514."
On a stone by the south door is the effigies of a woman bidding her beads, with three shields under the inscription.
1. Hasset with an annulet, quartering Lowdham;
2. Ditto impaling Tindall, quartering Fecklin;
3. Tindall quartering Orton and Scales.
Pran for the Soule of Jane Bleverhayssett, Wedow, late Wyf onto John Blaverhayssett, Esquier, Whiche Jane departed oute of this present Lyf, the bi Day of October, the Yere of our Lord God, M y rri on whose Soule Jhu have merry, Amen.
On a stone at the east end,
Here lyeth Sir Thomas Bleuerhayssette, Knyght, which decessyd the ryii Dan of June, the Yere of our Lorde M yo rrri. and rrriii Yere of the Reigne of our Sobe raygne Lord Kyng Henry the viiith, whois Soule God Pardon.
At each corner is a coat:
1. Hasset with an annulet, quartering Orton, impaling Lowdham and Keldon, quartered.
2. Hasset and Lowdham quartered, impaling Heigham, his first wife.
3. Hasset, Lowdon, Orton, and Keldon, quartered, impaling Braham, with a crescent.
4. Hasset, and the three quartered as in the last, impaling two lions passant.
His effigies still remains, in complete armour, having a surcoat of his arms, viz. Bleverhasset with the annulet, (which this branch always bare for difference,) with his quarterings, Lowdham, Orton, and Kelvedon; (or Keldon;) under his head lies his crest, viz. a fox passant.
On a marble three yards long, and a yard and half wide, is this on a brass plate:
Here lyeth Dame Margaret Bleverhayset, Wedowe. late Wyf to Syr Thomas Bleverhayset off Frens, Knyght, Domghter to John Braham of Metheryngset, Esquyer, who bad Yssue by the said Sur Thomas, two Sonnes, Thomas a Pryst, and John Bleverhayset of Bargham, by Beclys in Suff, and fyve Dowghters, that ys Elizabeth Fyrst married to Lyonell Lowth, after to Francis Clopton, Agnes married to Syr Antony Rows, Knyght, Anne married fyrst to George Duke, after to Peter Rede, Margaret fyrst married to John Gosnold, after to Antony Myngfyld, who dyed the rriii of Julye in the Yere of our Lorde, 1561.
The first coat is lost, but was Braham impaling Reydon.
2. Hasset, Lowdham, Keldon, Orton, Skelton, and Hasset, impaling Braham; the third is lost.
Adjoining is another stone, having had two coats, which are reaved, as is the effigies of the man; that of the woman remains; her head lies on a pillow, and her beads hang before her; the two remaining shields have these arms:
1. Duke quartering Banyard, with the difference of two annulets interlaced on the fess.
Park and Ilketshall impaling Hasset, quartering Lowdham, Keldon, Orton, and Skelton.
2. Hasset, and his quarterings, as before.
Mr. Le Neve says, that the two coats lost were,
1. Duke and his quarterings, as before.
2. Duke, &c. impaling Jenney, quartering Buckle and Leiston. Buckle, or, a chevron between three buckles.
Heare uner lieth George Duke, Esquyre. who marryed Anne, the Dowghter of Syr Thomas Bleverhaysset, Knyght, the whiche George died the rrbi day of July, in the Yere of our Lorde God, a. M. CCCCC. li. whos Sowle God Pardon, Amen.
Another stone hath its inscription torn off, and one shield; the other is
Cornwaleis impaling Froxmere.
The next hath a man in armour, his sword hanging before him on a belt, his hands erected.
Hasset quarters Lowdham and Orton; Orton or Lowthe impales Heigham.
Hic iacet venerabilis bir Johannis Bleber hayset, Armiger, qui viresimo viiio die Mens: Novemb: Ao Dni. Mo bo r. cuius anime propicietur Deus.
On another stone: crest, a fox sedant on a wreath, under it, in a lozenge:
1. Hasset, Lowdham, Orton, Keldon, Skelton, Duke, frette - - - Lowthe.
2. Culpepper quartering - - - - a chevron between eleven martlets, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, impaling Hasset, and quarterings as before.
3. Bacon impaling Hasset and quarterings.
4. Hasset and quarterings.
5. Duke, with an annulet, quartering three pelicans vulning themselves, and - - - frette - - -
6. Orton.
Mariæ filiæ et hæredi unicæ Georgij Bleverhasset, Militis inaurati Enuptæ primo Thomæ Culpeper, Armigero, qui hic, postea Francisco Bacon, Armigero, Qui Petistiræ in Comitat: Suff. tumulatur, sine prole, Defuncte vii Septembr. 1587, Ætatis suæ, 70. Viduæ, Piæ, Castæ, Hospitali, Benignæ! Joannes Cornwaleis, et Joannes Bleverhasset, Memoriæ et amoris ergo posuerunt.
On a brass fixed to the north chancel wall:
Here under lyethe Thomazin Platers, Daughter of George Duke, Esquyer, and Wife to William Platers, Sonne t Heier of Thomas Platers of Soterley, Esquier, whiche Thomazin dyed the 23d day of December, in the second Yere of the Reigne of our Sovereigne Lady Quene Elizabethe, Ao 1560.
Platers, arg. three bends wavy az.
Platers impaling Duke and his quarterings.
More towards the east, on the said wall, remains the impression of a brass effigies, and inscription now lost, but in a MSS. (marked E. 26, fol. 23.) in Mr. Anstis's hands we have the following account:
Platers's arms and Duke's:
Orate pro animabus Willi Platers et Thomazin uroris suæ filiæ Duke
As also of this, now lost:
Orate pro Domina Johanna Braham, vidua ur: Johns: Braham de Lowdham, Armigeri.
Braham impales Duke.
On a stone having the effigies of a woman in her winding sheet, bidding her beads:
Hic iaret tumulata domina Johanna Braham, vidua ar Deo dirata olim uror Johannis Braham Armigeri que obiit rbiiio die Nobembris Ao Dni. Millimo CCCCC rir. cuius anime propicietur Deus, Amen.
Braham single, and again impaling Reydon. Reydon single.
On a brass plated stone near the north door, a man in his winding sheet, and this:
Pray for the Sowle of your Charite, Of Thomas Hobson to the Trynyte.
On three flat marbles:
Nixon, on a chief, an axe impaling three roundels.
Here lieth the Body of Richard the Son of Richard Nixon, Esq; and Susan his Wife, who departed this Life the 28th Day of August, 1678.
In the 22d Year of his Age.
Nixon, impaling a chevron between three lions rampant:
Reliquiæ Richardi Nixon, Armig: Qui obijt 24° Novemb: Ano Dom. 1666, Ætatis suæ 77.
Per fess embattled three pheons impaling Nixon:
Here lyeth the Body of William Cooper, Gent. who died the 30th Day of March, 1693, Aged 54 Years.
In a north window was a man bearing Ufford's arms, and by him stood pictured a lady in the arms of Shelton, covered with a mantle of Lowdham. (fn. 8)
In the next window, or, a fess gul. Hasset, Scales; many funeral escutcheons for Hasset; one for Catherine, wife to Thomas Froxmere, Gent.
In the windows, Hasset and Lowdham quartered. Lowdham,— Ufford,—Dalimer, arg. three inescutcheons gul.; Shelton, Mortimer of Wigmore, Ufford with a label, again with a de-lis, again with a batoon gobonne arg. and gul.; again with an annulet arg.
In the west window Lowdham.
Lowdham impales Bacon, gul. on a chief arg. two mullets of the field, pierced sab.
Or, a fess gul. impales Scales.
Lowdham impales az. on a chief gul. three leopards faces or.
Mascule or and sab.
Most of these arms still remain in the windows.
I find among the evidences of Brightlead's tenement in Scole, that Thomas Ropkyn was buried here, with this inscription, now lost:
Pray for the Sowle of Thomas Ropkyn.
I have now by me three brass shields, which I am apt to think were stolen from this church some time agone; the arms being
Shelton impaling a cross ingrailed erm.
Shelton impaling a fess between fifteen billets, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.
Paston impaling Shelton.
At Mrs. Hill's at Castor, near Yarmouth, I saw an ancient canvass surrounding two rooms, painted with the matches of the Bleverhassets; (John Bleverhasset, who married Mrs. Hill's sister, and died in 1704, was the last of this branch;) their names are under each coat; but with hanging against moist walls, several are worn out: those that are perfect I have added here, though they are so displaced, that the time of the matches cannot be determined by their succession.
Bleverhasset, gul. a chevron. erm. between three dolphins embowed arg.
Crest on a wreath, arg. and gul. a fox seiant, gul.
Impaled with all the following coats:
Frogmorton, gul. on a chevron, or, three bars sab.
Braham, as in p. 134.
Tindall, arg. a fess indented in chief three crescents gul.
Eyre, arg. on a fess, - - - three trefoils or.
Pickerell, as in p. 48.
Clopton, sab. a bend arg. cotized, indented or.
Lowthe, sab. a lion rampant or, armed gul.
Cressi, arg. three beacons sab.
Culpepper, arg. a bend ingrailed gul.
Covert, gul. a fess between three lions heads or.
Baynaugh, gul. a chevron between three bulls faces or.
Brampton, gul. a saltire between four croslets fitchee arg.
Meawes, pally of six, or and arg. on a chief gul. three croslets formy of the first.
Lowdham, as in p. 134.
Kelvedon, (or Keldon,) gul. a pall reversed erm.
Orton, arg. a lion rampant guardant vert, crowned or.
Skelton, az. on a fess between three de-lises, or, a crescent sab.
Cornwaleis, Hare, Heydon, Wyngfield, Reape, Kempe, Gosnold, Spilman, Colby, Alcock, Rowse, Drury, Hubbard, Heigham, Warner, quartering Whetnall, Calthorp, Lovell and Ruthyn.
Rectors.
1294, John de Petestre, rector. (fn. 9)
1325, prid. non. Jan John de Novadomo (Newhouse) de Snapes; presented by Cecily, widow of Sir Robert de Ufford Earl of Suffolk, and lord of Eye, Robert de Shelton, and William Tastard, guardians of John de Lowdham.
1349, 21 Sept. Walter Manneysyn (after wrote in Deeds Malvesyn.) Sir John Lowdham, Knt.
1381, 7 May, William Payok, priest. Thomas de Lowdham, Knt.
1382, 6 June, John Baxter, priest. (fn. 10) Ditto.
1393, 4 June, Peter Rous, priest. Sir Robert Corbett, senior, guardian to John de Lowdham.
1394, 20 May, Henry Brakkele, priest, (fn. 11) Sir Robert Corbett, senior, guardian to John de Lowdham.
1397, 6 Decem. Sir John de Scoles, priest. Ditto.
1401, ult. Jan. Michael Crowe of Kenninghall, priest. Ditto.
1404, 4 Oct. Sir Tho. Warner of Leyham, priest. Gilbert de Debenham, for this turn.
1408, 8 Nov. Robert Pope of Frandeston, priest. John Lowdham of Burgate.
1416, 18 Oct. Tho. Bukke of Melles, priest. (fn. 12) John Lowdham of Ipswich, patron, by right of inheritance in a lineal descent.
1416, 20 Jan. John Greeve. Ditto.
1417, 22 Oct. Roger de Knyveton, priest. John Hevenyngham, senior, Knt. Will. Shelton, Esq. Will. Lord, clerk, and John Intewode, for this turn.
1419, 22 Dec. John Rawe, priest, on Knyveton's resignation. John Lowdham.
1423, 31 May, Simon Warner, priest. (fn. 13) John Lowdham, Esq. son and heir of Thomas Lowdham, Knt.
1428, 10 April, John Bubwith, priest, on Warner's resignation. John Hagh, Esq.
1479, 18 July, Henry - - - - - - -
1484, 22 Sept. Robert Stukely, collated by the Bishop. I meet with no more institutions till
1597, 21 April, Edmund Stanhaw. The Crown (as guardian to Bleverhasset.)
1598, 20 Oct. John Smith, A. M. on Stanhaw's resignation. Samuel Bleverhasset, Esq. united to Scole.
1603, John Smith, rector, of whom the Answers of the Parsons inform us, that he was a preacher allowed by the late Lord Bishop of Norwich, but no graduate.
1618, 21 April, Tho. Hall, A. M. united to Scole. Samuel Blaverhasset of Lowdham, Esq.
1642, 10 Sept. John Gibbs, A. M. on Hall's death. Richard Nixon, Gent.
1651, 18 Febr. Toby Dobbin. Ditto.
¶1673, 22 Sept. Tho. Wales, A. B. on Dobbin's death. John Fincham of Outwell, in the Isle of Ely, Esq.; he had Thelton.
1702, 7 Oct. Tho. Palgrave, on Wales's death. Diamond Nixon, Esq.
1725, 24 Aug. Will. Baker, on Palgrave's death. Robert Kemp, Bart. united to Wacton-Parva.
1734, the Rev. Mr. John James, the present [1736] rector, on Baker's resignation. Sir Robert Kemp, Bart. patron.
www.british-history.ac.uk/topographical-hist-norfolk/vol1...
Still totally passive aggressive though. Sitting on top of my pillows. Totally able to pee on them any second.
I fed her right after I took the shot. xD
Andora says: andora.tumblr.com/post/932073400/pillow-queen
These are some more shots of my Tour to Europe in Sept - Nov 2012. I has been a while since I last saw them.. great to be able to catch up on them at last!
It was our tour guides 38th birthday and we had a celebration for him at out hotel.
On our tour of Valencia, on my Cosmos tour, October 15, 2012.
Valencia, is the capital of the autonomous community of Valencia and the third largest city in Spain after Madrid and Barcelona, with around 800,000 inhabitants in the administrative centre. Its urban area extends beyond the administrative city limits with a population of around 1.5 million people. Valencia is Spain's third largest metropolitan area, with a population ranging from 1.7 to 2.5 million. The city has global city status. The Port of Valencia is the 5th busiest container port in Europe and busiest container port on the Mediterranean Sea.
Valencia was founded as a Roman colony in 138 BC. The city is situated on the banks of the Turia, on the east coast of the Iberian Peninsula, fronting the Gulf of Valencia on the Mediterranean Sea. Its historic centre is one of the largest in Spain, with approximately 169 acres; this heritage of ancient monuments, views and cultural attractions makes Valencia one of the country's most popular tourist destinations. Major monuments include Valencia Cathedral, the Torres de Serranos, the Torres de Quart, the Llotja de la Seda (declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996), and the Ciutat de les Arts i les Ciències (City of Arts and Sciences), an entertainment-based cultural and architectural complex designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela. The Museu de Belles Arts de València houses a large collection of paintings from the 14th to the 18th centuries, including works by Velázquez, El Greco, and Goya, as well as an important series of engravings by Piranesi. The Institut Valencià d'Art Modern (Valencian Institute of Modern Art) houses both permanent collections and temporary exhibitions of contemporary art and photography.
The original Latin name of the city was Valentia, meaning "strength", or "valour", the city being named according to the Roman practice of recognizing the valour of former Roman soldiers after a war. The Roman historian Livy explains that the founding of Valentia in the 2nd century BC was due to the settling of the Roman soldiers who fought against an Iberian rebel, Viriato.
For More Info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valencia
3-29-20 Pip 1:15:54pm
We have all been able to observe the miracle of nature while watching the hatching on SWFEC. Throughout the night the eaglet has been going through the hard process of hatching. We were able to see the first view of a pip at 7:15:48 this morning. At around 12:20pm we observed some blood in the egg around the pip area.
While we are not sure what has caused this blood we can share some information regarding the hatch. During the hatch process the chick has to switch its respiration and blood circulation. After it breaks the shell it absorbs the rest of the yolk and the blood vessels.
Blood vessels that haven't dried up yet may still attach the shell to the chick, and prematurely pulling of the shell can cause excessive bleeding. We usually do see some sign of blood inside of the egg shell after the hatch.
But I think most of us have never seen this much blood during a hatch - so it is understandable we all have questions. We can only hope that all will go well for this eaglet during the hatching process. But we would be remiss if we didn’t remind everyone that not all eaglets survive the hatch.
This information on hatching comes from from Nick Fox (Understanding the Bird of Prey, 1995) on hatching:
"About 72 hours before hatching, the egg starts an ordered sequence of events which are critical. The chick must progress from allantoic respiration to lung breathing, retract its yolk sac and hatch.
[The allantois is part of the membrane surround the embryo -- it is the mechanism of the exchange of oxygen in and carbon dioxide out until the chick's lungs begin to function just before hatch, and it collects metabolic wastes that are discarded after hatch.]
"At the time when the air cell is beginning the 'draw down' the complexis hatching muscle at the nape of the chick's neck becomes swollen with lymph and twitches spasmodically. The twitching movement extends throughout the whole body of the chick causing it to straighten briefly.
These unbending movements press the chick tight against the eggshell and force the beak upwards. On the upper ridge of the beak is the small egg tooth which eventually penetrates the inner shell membrane into the air cell. Once the beak is into the air cell, the chick is able to start breathing air into its lungs although it is still dependent on allantoic gas exchange. With its lungs in operation it is able to cheep and this is a sure sign that breathing has started.
"With continuous rebreathing, the air in the air cell becomes high in carbon dioxide and this stimulates the hatching muscle to further activity. With more faint tapping and pressure from the chick, the shell wall gives way and a slight lifting of a fragment of shell becomes visible. This is called 'starring.'
This allows a small amount of fresh air into the air space and the chick usually becomes quiet for some hours. Working sporadically, the chick then begins to break up an area around the pip and also splits the air cell membrane much further so that, on candling, it can be seen to occupy most of the air cell and is much looser inside the shell. Gradually the chick enlarges an opening and the beak and egg tooth come into view.
"The chick may rest at this point for a further twenty-four hours. During this time the lungs and airsac system are becoming fully functional and gradually take over total responsibility for gas exchange. The blood circulation in the allantois slowly shuts down.
"Once the allantois has shut down, the chick starts to rotate inside the shell. Within about fifteen minutes the chick circles about half to two-thirds around the egg, industriously cutting out the shell as it goes. Soon it is able to push up the cap with its shoulders and kick itself free of the shell, leaving the membranes and excreted uric acid waste behind.
The allantoic blood vessels quickly fall away from the navel. By one or two days after hatching the hatching muscle has reduced in size and is no longer swollen with lymph. The total time from pip to hatch in birds of prey varies considerably from about 30-70 hours but is usually complete within 50 hours."
Here's that monument I was looking for in the extreme southeastern corner of Ohio, only about 3-and-a-half miles from the Indiana border behind me, and a thousand feet from the Kentucky border at the north bank of the Ohio River off to my right. If I'd pulled off a panorama, you'd be able to see the river just out of frame. This great column is the final resting place of William Henry Harrison, hero of the Indian wars and the War of 1812, secretary of the Northwest Territories, governor of the Indiana Territory, and, very briefly, 9th President of the United States. The tomb sits atop a hill called Mount Nebo, on property Harrison bought from his father-in-law.
I've talked about Harrison a number of times on this page going back a decade, starting with the picture I posted of the house he owned in Vincennes, Indiana. He's a hugely important figure in the history of this part of the country, he's not somebody anyone ever thinks of. This may owe to the fact that he got himself elected President and then almost immediately died after serving the shortest Presidential term, exactly one month. The historical footnote overwhelms the fame -- or, maybe infamy -- he deserves. But he was the guy largely responsible for forcing the Indians out of Indiana and much of the rest of the old Northwest Territory. Without Harrison, American white folk might never have built the great cities of Columbus or Indianapolis, and it's hard to quantify the impact that loss would have had on the American psyche.
Harrison was born into the wealth and power of the Virginia tobacco aristocracy -- his father signed the Declaration of Independence and served as the fifth governor of the Commonwealth of Virginia -- but he took off as a young man and joined the army in 1791. They sent him to a wilderness fort near the little town of Cincinnati, and he spent about half the decade running around Ohio with General "Mad" Anthony Wayne trying to kill Natives. (He was there for the Battle of Fallen Timbers.) Toward the end of the decade, he decided to quit soldiering for a while and got into politics. The settlers of soon-to-be Ohio elected him as their Congressional delegate, and then he got appointed secretary of the Northwest Territories. He used his time in that job to convince Congress to split Indiana off into its own Indiana Territory, and in 1801, he got himself appointed territorial governor. He held that job for the next decade.
That decade is when Harrison wielded his most influence over the course of American history, because his most dearly held goal was to drive all the Indians out of Indiana so white folks could turn it into corn fields, churches, and race tracks. He accomplished this by presaging the invention of the used car salesman, pitting all the different Native groups against each other, dreaming up fake treaties that some groups signed giving away the lands of other groups, yanking land out from under people, wheeling and dealing and wrapping it all up in bureaucratic circles the Natives couldn't begin to understand, because none of it made any sense.
In 1811, a Shawnee chief named Tecumseh and his brother, a man called the Prophet, went to Vincennes with a couple of hundred warriors to tell Harrison they'd had enough of all that crap, that they hadn't signed any Shawnee lands away (that had been the Miami), and that they wanted their land back. Harrison told them all to get lost, and so Tecumseh started roaming around the South and near West trying to build up allies for a fight. Harrison figured the outcome of that might go badly for him, so he pulled his old army uniform out of the closet, marched up into northern Indiana, and tracked Tecumseh and the Prophet and their warriors to the Tippecanoe River. They all fought a big battle, but Harrison's army won in the end, and Tecumseh's embryonic alliance was shattered. Harrison marched back to Vincennes a hero, and he rode the press on the battle for the rest of his life.
He did another stint in the army during the War of 1812, which was fine, because he was pretty decent at the war stuff. As a Brigadier General, he commanded the forces that recaptured Detroit and won the Battle of the Thames (not that Thames), where Tecumseh was killed. But then he got into a tiff with the Secretary of War and was assigned to some boondocks outpost, and he resigned in a huff. He went back to Ohio, built a farm right on this spot at the edge of the town of North Bend, and dabbled in politics. The dabbling soon got him chosen to be one of Ohio's US senators, He did that until 1828, then was appointed to an ambassadorial post in Gran Columbia, the all-new nation Simon Bolivar established where Columbia and Venezuela are today. He turned out to be a horrible diplomat, though, so the government canned him, and he went back home to Ohio in 1829.
And that's probably where he should have stayed. Instead, he ran for president in 1836 and lost. He ran again in 1840 and beat Martin Van Buren, becoming the 9th President of the United States. His most consequential Presidential act turned out to be choosing John Tyler as his vice president. His second most consequential act, the story goes, was giving a two-hour inaugural speech -- still the longest of any inaugural address, ironically -- in the rain without wearing a hat. History long said that's where he caught the cold that turned into pneumonia and killed him, though doctors in those days never had any idea what killed anyone. More recent research in the last decade has noted that the White House water supply was downstream from a raw sewage dump, and that Harrison more likely died of septic shock from something like typhoid fever.
Nobody has any idea what Harrison would have done as president, though his inaugural address outlined in excruciating detail the things he planned to do, though most of that involved reversing the disastrous financial policies Andrew Jackson and Martin Van Buren had followed before him. Would he have done it? Who knows? He died, and they stuck him in a Washington vault until the rivers thawed enough to send him home to this hill in Ohio.
+++ DISCLAIMER +++
Nothing you see here is real, even though the conversion or the presented background story might be based historical facts. BEWARE!
Some background:
Although the performance increases of jet-powered aircraft introduced towards the end of World War II over their piston-powered ancestors were breathtaking, there were those at the time who believed that much more was possible. As far back as 1943, the British Ministry of Aircraft Production had issued a specification designated "E.24/43" for a supersonic experimental jet aircraft that would be able to achieve 1,600 KPH (1,000 MPH).
Beginning in 1946, a design team at English Electric (EE) under W.E.W. "Teddy" Petter began design studies for a supersonic fighter, leading to award of a Ministry of Supply (MoS) contract in 1947 under specification "ER.103" for a design study on an experimental aircraft that could achieve Mach 1.2.
The MoS liked the EE concepts, and in early 1949 awarded the company a contract under specification "F.23/49" for two flying prototypes and one ground-test prototype of the "P.1".
The P.1 was defined as a supersonic research aircraft, though the design had provisions for armament and a radar gunsight. It incorporate advanced and unusual design features, such as twin turbojet engines mounted one above the other to reduce aircraft frontal area; and strongly swept wings, with the wingtip edges at a right angle to the fuselage, giving a wing configuration like that of a delta wing with the rear inner corners cut out. The aircraft featured an elliptical intake in the nose.
The P.1's performance was so outstanding that the decision was quickly made to proceed on an operational version that would be capable of Mach 2. In fact, the second P.1 prototype featured items such as a bulged belly tank and fit of twin Aden Mark 4 30 millimeter revolver-type cannon, bringing it closer to operational specification.
Orders were placed for three "P.1B" prototypes for a production interceptor and the original P.1 was retroactively designated "P.1A". The P.1B featured twin Rolls-Royce Avon afterburning engines and a larger tailfin. An airborne intercept (AI) radar was carried in the air intake shock cone, which was changed from elliptical to circular. The cockpit was raised for a better field of view and the P.1B was armed with two Aden cannon in the upper nose, plus a pack under the cockpit that could either support two De Havilland Blue Jay (later Firestreak) heat-seeking AAMs or 44 Microcell 5 centimeter (2 inch) unguided rockets.
The initial P.1B prototype performed its first flight on 4 April 1957 and the type entered RAF service as EE Lightning F.1. RAF Number 74 Squadron at Coltishall was the first full service unit, with the pilots acquiring familiarization with the type during late 1960 and the squadron declared operational in 1961.
However, while the Lightning was developed further into more and more advanced versions. Its concept was also the basis for another research aircraft that would also be developed into a high performance interceptor: the P.6/1, which later became the “Levin” fighter.
P.6 encompassed a total of four different layouts for a Mach 2+ research aircraft, tendering to ER.134T from 1952. P.6/1 was the most conservative design and it relied heavily on existing (and already proven) P.1 Lightning components, primarily the aerodynamic surfaces. The most obvious difference was a new fuselage of circular diameter, housing a single Rolls Royce RB.106 engine.
The RB.106 was a two-shaft design with two axial flow compressors each driven by its own single stage turbine and reheat. It was of similar size to the Rolls-Royce Avon, but it produced about twice the thrust at 21,750 lbf (96.7 kN) in the initial version. The two-shaft layout was relatively advanced for the era; the single-shaft de Havilland Gyron matched it in power terms, while the two-spool Bristol Olympus was much less powerful at the then-current state of development. Apart from being expected to power other British aircraft such as those competing for Operational Requirement F.155, it was also selected to be the powerplant for the Avro Canada CF-105 Arrow and led to the Orenda Iroquois engine, which even reach 30.000 lbf (130 kN).
The P.6/1 was eventually chosen by the MoS for further development because it was regarded as the least risky and costly alternative. Beyond its test bed role for the RB.106 the P.6/1 was also seen as a potential basis for a supersonic strategic air-to-ground missile (similar to the massive Soviet AS-3 ‘Kangaroo’ cruise missile) and the starting point for an operational interceptor that would be less complex than the Lightning, but with a comparable if not improved performance but a better range.
In 1955 English Electric received a go ahead for two P.6/1 research aircraft prototypes. Despite a superficial similarity to the Lightning, the P.6/1’s internal structure was very different. The air duct, for instance, was bifurcated and led around on both sides of the cockpit tub and the front wheel well instead of below it. Further down, the duct ran below the wing main spar and directly fed the RB.106.
The rear fuselage was area-ruled, the main landing gear retracted, just like the Lightning’s, outwards into the wings, while the front wheel retracted backwards into a well that was placed further aft than on the Lightning. The upper fuselage behind the main wings spar carried fuel tanks, more fuel was carried in wing tanks.
Both research machines were ready in 1958 and immediately started with aerodynamic and material tests for the MoS, reaching top speeds of Mach 2.5 and altitudes of 60.000 ft. and more.
In parallel, work on the fighter version, now called “Levin”, had started. The airframe was basically the same as the P.6/1’s. Biggest visible changes were a wider air intake with a bigger central shock cone (primarily for a radar dish), a shorter afterburner section and an enlarged fin with area increased by 15% that had become necessary in order to compensate instability through the new nose layout and the potential carriage of external ordnance, esp. under the fuselage. This bigger fin was taken over to the Lightning F.3 that also initially suffered from longitudal instability due to the new Red Top missiles.
The Levin carried armament and avionics similar to the Lightning, including the Ferranti-developed AI.23 monopulse radar. The aircraft was to be fully integrated into a new automatic intercept system developed by Ferranti, Elliot, and BAC. It would have turned the fighters into something like a "manned missile" and greatly simplified intercepts.
Anyway, the Levin’s weapon arrangement was slightly different from the Lightning: the Levin’s armament comprised theoretically a mix of up to four 30mm Aden cannons and/or up to four of the new Red Top AAMs, or alternatively the older Firestreak. The guns were mounted in the upper nose flanks (similar to the early Lightning arrangement, but set further back), right under the cockpit hatch, while a pair of AAMs was carried on wing tip launch rails. Two more AAMs could be carried on pylons under the lower front fuselage, similar to the Lightning’s standard configuration, even though there was no interchangeable module. Since this four-missile arrangement would not allow any cannon to be carried anymore and caused excessive drag, the typical payload was limited to two Aden cannons and the single pair of wing-tip missiles.
Despite its proven Lightning ancestry, the development of the Levin went through various troubles. While the RB.106 worked fine in the research P.6/1, it took until 1962 that a fully reliable variant for the interceptor could be cleared for service. Meanwhile the Lightning had already evolved into the F.3 variant and political discussions circled around the end of manned military aircraft. To make matters even worse, the RAF refused to buy the completely automatic intercept system, despite the fact that it had been fully engineered at a cost of 1.4 million pounds and trialed in one of the P.1Bs.
Eventually, the Levin F.1 finally entered service in 1964, together with the Lightning F.3. While the Lightning was rather seen as a point defense interceptor, due to the type’s limited range: If a Lightning F.3 missed its target on its first pass, it almost never had enough fuel to make a second attempt without topping off from a tanker, which would give an intruder plenty of time to get to its target and then depart… The Lightning’s flight endurance was less than 2 hours (in the F.2A, other variants even less), and it was hoped that the Levin had more potential through a longer range. Anyway, in service, the Levin’s range in clean configuration was only about 8% better than the Lightning’s. The Levin F.1’s flight endurance was about 2 ½ hours – an improvement, but not as substantial as expected.
In order to improve the range on both fighters, English Electric developed a new, stiffened wing for the carriage of a pair of jettisonable overwing ferry tanks with a capacity of 1,182 liters (312 US gallons / 260 Imperial gallons, so-called “Overburgers”). The new wing also featured a kinked leading edge, providing better low-speed handling. From mid 1965 onwards, all Levins were directly produced in this F.2 standard, and during regular overhauls the simpler F.1 machines were successively updated. The Lightning introduced the kinked wing with the F.3A variant and it was later introduced with the F.2A and F.6A variants.
Levin production comprised 21 original F.1 airframes, plus 34 F.2 fighters, and production was stopped in 1967. A trainer version was not produced, the Lightning trainers were deemed sufficient for conversion since the Levin and the Lightning shared similar handling characteristics.
The Levin served only with RAF 29 and 65 Squadron, the latter re-instated in 1970 as a dedicated fighter squadron. When in November 1984 the Tornado squadrons began to form, the Levin was gradually phased out and replaced until April 1987 by the Tornado F.3.
General characteristics:
Crew: 1
Length w/o pitot: 51 ft 5 in (15,70 m), 55 ft 8 in (16.99 m) overall
Wingspan incl. wingtip launch rails: 34 ft 9 in (10.54 m)
Height: 19 ft 7 in (5.97 m)
Wing area: 474.5 ft² (44.08 m²)
Empty weight: 8937 kg (lb)
Loaded weight: 13,570 kg (29,915)
Max. takeoff weight: 15,210 kg (33,530 lb)
Powerplant:
1× Rolls-Royce RB.106-10S afterburning turbojet,
rated at 20,000 lbf (89 kN) dry and 26,000 lbf (116 kN) with afterburning
Performance:
Maximum speed:
- 1,150 km/h (620 kn, 715 mph, Mach 0.94) at sea level
- 2,230 km/h (1.202 kn, 1,386 mph, Mach 2.1;), clean with 2× Red Top AAMs at high altitude
- Mach 2.4 absolute top speed in clean configuration at 50.000 ft.
Range: 1,650 km (890 nmi, 1,025 mi) on internal fuel
Combat radius: 500 km (312 mi); clean, with a pair of wing tip Red Top AAMs
Ferry range: 1,270 mi (1.100 NM/ 2.040 km) with overwing tanks
Service ceiling: 16,760 m (55,000 ft)
Rate of climb: 136.7 m/s (27,000 ft/min)
Wing loading: 76 lb/ft² (370 kg/m²)
Thrust/weight: 0.78
Takeoff roll: 950 m (3,120 ft)
Landing roll: 700 m (2,300 ft)
Armament:
2× 30 mm (1.18 in) ADEN cannons with 120 RPG in the upper front fuselage
2× wing tip hardpoints for mounting air-to-air missiles (2 Red Top of Firestreak AAMs)
2× overwing pylon stations for 260 gal ferry tanks
Optional, but rarely used: 2× hardpoints under the front fuselage for mounting air-to-air missiles
(2 Red Top of Firestreak AAMs)
The kit and its assembly:
Another contribution to the Cold War GB at whatifmodelers.com, and the realization of a project I had on the agenda for long. The EE P.6/1 was a real project for a Mach 2+ research aircraft, as described above, but it never went off the drawing board. Its engine, the RB.106, also never saw the light of day, even though its later career as the Canadian Orenda Iroquois for the stillborn CF-105.
Building this aircraft as a model appears simple, because it’s a classic Lightning (actually a F.1 with the un-kinked wing and the small fin), just with a single engine and a rather tubular fuselage. But creating this is not easy at all…
I did not want to replicate the original P.6/1, but rather a service aircraft based on the research aircraft. Therefore I used parts from a Lightning F.6 (a vintage NOVO/Frog kit). For the fuselage I settled for a Su-17, from a MasterCraft kit. The kit’s selling point was its small price tag and the fuselage construction: the VG mechanism is hidden under a separate spine piece, and I wanted to transplant the Lightning’s spine and cockpit frame, so I thought that this would make things easier.
Nope.
Putting the parts from the VERY different kits/aircraft together was a major surgery feat, with several multiple PSR sessions on the fuselage, the air intake section (opened and fitted with both an internal splitter and a bulkhead to the cockpit section), the wings, the stabilizers, the fin… This model deserves the title “kitbash” like no other, because no major sections had ever been intended to be glued together, and in the intended position!
The landing gear was more or less taken OOB, but the main struts had to be elongated by 2mm – somehow the model turned out to be a low-riding tail sitter! The cockpit interior was improvised, too, consisting of a Su-17 cockpit tub, a scratched dashboard and a Martin Baker ejection seat from an Italeri Bae Hawk trainer.
Since most of the fuselage surface consists of various materials (styrene and two kinds of putty), I did not dare to engrave panel lines – after all the PSR work almost any surface detail was gone. I rather went for a graphic solution (see below). Some antennae and air scoops were added, though.
The overwing tanks come OOB from the NOVO kit, as well as the Red Top missiles, which ended up on improvised wing tip launch rails, based on design sketches for Lightning derivatives with this layout.
Colors and markings:
There are several “classic” RAF options, but I settled for a low-viz Eighties livery taken from BAC Lightnings. There’s a surprising variety of styles, and my version is a mix of several real world aircraft.
I settled for Dark Sea Grey upper surfaces (Modelmaster Authentic) with a high waterline, a fuselage completely in Medium Sea Grey (Humbrol 165 – had to be applied twice because the first tin I used was obviously old and the paint ended up in a tone not unlike PRU Blue!) and Light aircraft Grey underwing surfaces (Humbrol 166). The leading edges under the wings are Dark Sea Grey, too.
The cockpit interior was painted in dark grey (Humbrol 32 with some dry-brushing), while the landing gear is Aluminum (Humbrol 56).
Once the basic painting was done I had to deal with the missing panel lines on the fuselage and those raised lines that were sanded away during the building process. I decided to simulate these with a soft pencil, after the whole kit was buffed with a soft cotton cloth and some grinded graphite. This way, the remaining raised panel lines were emphasized, and from these the rest was drawn up. A ruler and masking tape were used as guidance for straight lines, and this worked better than expected, with good results.
As a next step, the newly created panels were highlighted with dry-brushed lighter tones of the basic paints (FS 36492 and WWII Italian Blue Grey from Modelmaster, and Humbrol 126), more for a dramatic than a weathered effect. The gun ports and the exhaust section were painted with Modelmaster Metallizer (Titanium and Magnesium).
The decals come from several Xtradecal aftermarket sheets, including a dedicated Lightning stencils sheet, another Lightning sheet with various squadron markings and a sheet for RAF Tornado ADVs.
The code number “XS970” was earmarked to a TSR.2, AFAIK, but since it was never used on a service aircraft it would be a good option for the Levin.
The kit received a coat of matt acrylic varnish from the rattle can – jn this case the finish was intended to bear a slight shine.
This was a project with LOTS of effort, but you hardly recognize it – it’s a single engine Lightning, so what? But welding the Lightning and Su-17 parts together for something that comes close to the P.6/1 necessitated LOTS of body work and improvisation, carving it from wood would probably have been the next complicated option. Except for the surprisingly long tail I am very happy with the result, despite the model’s shaggy origins, and the low-viz livery suits the sleek aircraft IMHO very well.
New to Able Coaches, South Mimms is Irizar i6 Integral YN13BWY.
Seen at Wembley for the Sky Bet Championship play-off final
Igtham is well known, at least the nearby moated manor house, Igtham Moat. The village is well travelled through, and many stop here because it is chocolate box picture perfect.
I stopped here at about half ten on a Saturday morning, the place should have been packed with tourists, maybe it will once the pub opens for lunch, but I was able to park in the picturesque village square, take a few shots of the timber-framed buildings, and walk up the hill to the church.
From the lych gate I could see the porch door open, so my hopes were raised, and indeed the church was open, un-manned, and the lights came on, triggered by a pressure pad in the porch.
This I did not know until the lights went out after ten minutes, I went out to find the light switches, returned and the lights were back on.
Upon entering the church, your eyes are drawn to large and impressive memorials on the right hand side of the Chancel, two lying armoured male figures have relaxed for four hundred years, on the east wall, a severe female glares down as she has done since the 17th century.
And in an alcove on the north side, a 14th century knight, covered in armour lies with a lion at his feet.
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The church is built on a steep hillside and displays a rare brick-built north aisle. The chancel is full of unusual memorials, the most noteworthy of which is to Sir Thomas Cawne dating from the end of the fourteenth century. He is wearing armour and chain mail and lies under a canopy beneath a window that forms part of the same composition. In the churchyard is a nice nineteenth-century tomb designed by the famous architect William Burges. The other monuments of note at Ightham are all to the Selby family, the most famous of whom is Dorothy Selby (d. 1641) who is reputed to have had a connection with the Gunpower Plot, although the ambiguous inscription on her tomb is now believed to be no more than an appreciation of her needlework.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Ightham
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IGHTHAM.
WESTWARD from Wrotham lies IGHTHAM, so corruptly called for Eightham, which name it had from the eight boroughs or hams lying within the bounds of it, viz. Eightham, Redwell, Ivybatch, Borough-green, St. Cleres, the Moat, Beaulies, and Oldborough. (fn. 1) In the Textus Roffensis it is spelt EHTEHAM.
THE PARISH of Ightham for the most part is in the vale between the chalk and the sand or quarry hills, tho' it reaches above the former northward. Near the chalk hill, and for some distance southward the same soil prevails, thence it is an unsertile deep sand, and at the boundaries towards Shipborne a deep clay and heavy tillage land; from hence, and its situation, however healthy it may be, it is by no means a pleasant or a profitable one. The parish is very narrow, little more than a mile in width, but from north to south it extends near five miles, from Kingsdown, above the hills, to Shipborne, its southern boundary. At the foot of the chalk hill and north-west boundary of this parish, is the mansion of St. Clere, and not far from it Yaldham; about a mile from which is Ightham-court, and at a little distance further southward is the church and village, situated on the high road from Maidstone to Sevenoke and Westerham, which here crosses this parish by the hamlet of Borough-green, and the manor of Oldborough, or Oldbery, as it is now called, with the hill of that name, belonging to Richard James, esq. of this parish, in this part, and by Ivy-hatch plain, there is much rough uninclosed waste ground, the soil a dreary barren sand, consisting in this and the adjoining parish, of several hundred acres, being in general covered with heath and furze, with some scrubby wood interspersed among them. At the southern extremity of the parish, next to Shipborne, and adjoining to the grounds of Fairlawn, is the seat of the Moat, lowly situated in a deep and miry soil. A fair is kept yearly in this parish, upon the Wednesday in Whitsun week, which is vulgarly called Coxcombe fair.
The Roman military way seems to have crossed this parish from Ofham, and Camps directing its course westward through it. The names of Oldborough, now called Oldberry-hill, and Stone-street in it, are certain marks of its note in former times.
At Oldberry-hill there are the remains of a very considerable intrenchment, which is without doubt of Roman origin. It is situated on the top of the hill, and is now great part of it so overgrown with wood as to make it very difficult to trace the lines of it. It is of an oval form, and by a very accurate measurement, contains within its bounds the space of one hundred and thirty-seven acres. Just on the brow of the hill is an entrance into a cave, which has been long filled up by the sinking of the earth, so as to admit a passage but a very small way into it, but by antient tradition, it went much further in, under the hill.
The whole of it seems to have been antiently fortified according to the nature of the ground, that is, where it is less difficult of access by a much stronger vallum or bank, than where it is more so. In the middle of it there are two fine springs of water. The vast size of this area, which is larger even than that at Keston, in this county, takes away all probability of its having been a Roman station, the largest of which, as Dr. Horsley observes, that he knew of, not being near a tenth part of this in compass. It seems more like one of their camps, and might be one of their castra æstiva, or summer quarters, of which kind they had several in this county. An intrenchment of like form seems to have been at Oldbury hill, in Wiltshire, which the editor of Camden thought might possibly be Danish. There are remains of a Roman camp at Oldbury, in Gloucestershire, where the pass of the Romans over the Severn, mentioned by Antonine, is supposed to have been by Camden. And at Oldbury, near Manchester, in Warwickshire, are such like remains.
IGHTHAM was held in the reign of king Henry III. by Hamo de Crevequer, who died possessed of it in the 47th year of that reign, anno 1262, leaving Robert, his grandson, his heir. By his wife, Maud de Albrincis, or Averenches, he had also four daughters, Agnes, wife of John de Sandwich, Isolda, of Nicholas de Lenham; Elene, of Bertram de Criol; and Isabel, of Henry de Gaunt.
Robert de Crevequer left one son, William, who dying without issue, his inheritance devolved on the children of three of the daughters of Hamon de Crevequer, as above-mentioned, Agnes, Isolda, and Elene, and on the division of their inheritance, Ightham seems to have fallen to the share of Nicholas, son of Bertram de Criol, by his wife Elene, above-mentioned. He was a man greatly in the king's favour, and was constituted by him warden of the five ports, sheriff of Kent, and governor of Rochester castle. By Joane his wife, daughter and sole heir of William de Aubervill, he had Nicholas de Criol, who had summons to parliament, and died in the 31st year of king Edward the 1st.'s reign, possessed of this manor, which his heirs alienated to William de Inge, who held it in the first year of king Edward II. and procured free-warren for his lands in Eyghtham, (fn. 2) and in the 9th year of it, a market here, to be held on a Monday weekly, and one fair on the feast of the apostles, St. Peter and St. Paul. In which last year he was constituted one of the justices of the common pleas. (fn. 3) He bore for his arms, Or, a chevron vert. On his death, in the 15th year of that reign, anno 1286, Joane, his daughter, married to Eudo, or Ivo la Zouch, the son of William, lord Zouch, of Harringworth, by Maud, daughter of John, lord Lovel, of Tichmarsh, became entitled to it.
His descendants continued in the possession of this manor till the reign of king Henry VII. when it was alienated to Sir Robert Read, serjeant at law, afterwards made chief justice of the common pleas, (fn. 4) who died in the next reign of king Henry VIII. leaving by Margaret, one of the daughters and coheirs of John Alphew, esq. of Chidingstone, one son, Edmund, one of the justices of the king's bench, who died before him in 1501, and also four daughters, who became his coheirs, and on the partition of their inheritance this manor was allotted to Sir Thomas Willoughby, (fn. 5) in right of Bridget his wife, the eldest of them. He was in the 29th year of king Henry VIII. promoted to the office of chief justice of the common pleas, and in the 31st year of it, he, among others, procured his lands to be disgavelled by the act then passed for that purpose. He left Robert his son and heir, who alienated this manor to William James, third son of Roger James, of London, who was of Dutch parentage, and coming into England in the latter end of the reign of king Henry VIII. was first as being the descendant of Jacob Van Hastrecht, who was antiently seated at Cleve near Utrecht, called after the Dutch fashion Roger Jacobs, and afterwards Roger James, alias Hastrecht. This Roger James, alias Hastrecht, had several sons and one daughter. Of the former, Roger, the eldest, was of Upminster, in Essex, whose descendants settled at Ryegate, in Surry. William, was of Ightham, as before mentioned; Richard had a son, who was of Creshell, in Essex; John was of Woodnesborough, in this county, and George was of Mallendine, in Cliff, near Rochester. William-James, the third son of Roger as before-mentioned, resided at Ightham-court, as did his son William James, esq. who was a man much trusted in the usurpation under Oliver Cromwell, as one of the committee members for the sequestration of the loyalists estates, during which time he was in five years thrice chosen knight of the shire for Kent. His son Demetrius was knighted, whose son William James held his shrievalty for this county here in 1732. He left by his wife, daughter of Demetrius James, esq. of Essex, two sons, Richard his heir, and Demetrius, late rector of this parish, and a daughter married to Mr. Hindman. He died in 1780, and was succeeded by his eldest son Richard James, esq. now of Ightham-court, and the present possessor of this manor. He is colonel of the West-Kent regiment of militia, and is at present unmarried. The original coat of arms of this family of Haestrecht was, Argent, two bars crenelle, gules, in chief three pheons sable; which arms, without the pheons, are borne by the several branches of James, quartered with, Argent, a chevron between three fer de molins transverse, sable.
ST. CLERES, alias West Aldham, situated in the borough of the latter name, is a manor and seat in the north-west part of this parish, adjoining to Kemsing, which was formerly called by the latter name only, and was possessed by a family of the same denomination, who bore for their arms, Azure, a pile, or.
Sir Thomas de Aldham was owner of it in the reign of king Richard I. and was with that king at the siege of Acon, in Palestine. His descendant Sir Thomas de Aldham, possessed this manor of Aldham in the reign of king Edward II. and dying without male issue, his three daughters became his coheirs, the eldest of whom married Newborough, called in Latin de Novo Burgo, of Dorsetshire; Margery married Martin Peckham, and Isolda was the wife of John St. Clere, and on the division of their inheritance this manor fell to the share of John St. Clere, who possessed it in his wife's right. (fn. 6)
John de St. Clere, written in Latin deeds De Sancta Claro, died possessed of it in the beginning of king Edward III. leaving Isolda his wife surviving, on whose death John St. Clere, their son, succeeded to this manor, which from this family now gained the name of Aldham St. Cleres, and in process of time came to be called by the latter name only, and their descendants continued in possession of this manor till the beginning of the reign of king Henry VII. when it was alienated to Henry Lovel, who left two daughters his coheirs; Agnes, who married John Empson, cousin to Sir Richard Empson, the grand projector; and Elizabeth, married to Anthony Windsor.
John Empson conveyed his moiety of it, in the 8th year of king Henry VIII. to Sir Thomas Bulleyn, afterwards created earl of Wiltshire and Ormond, and father of the lady Anne Bulleyn, wife to Henry VIII. (fn. 7) and Anthony Windsor, in the 10th year of that reign, passed his moiety away by sale to Richard Farmer, who that year purchased of Sir Thomas Bulleyn the other part, and so became possessed of the whole of this manor of St. Cleres. In the 28th year of that reign, Richard Farmer conveyed it to George Multon, esq. of Hadlow who removed hither. He bore for his arms, Or, three bars vert; being the same arms as those borne by Sir John Multon, lord Egremond, whose heir general married the lord Fitzwalter, excepting in the difference of the colours, the latter bearing it, Argent, three bars, gules. His grandson Robert Multon, esq. was of St. Cleres, and lies buried with his ancestors in this church. He alienated this manor and estate, in the reign of Charles I. to Sir John Sidley, knight and baronet, a younger branch of those of Southfleet and Aylesford, in this county, who erected here a mansion for his residence, which is now remaining. He was descended from William Sedley, esq. of Southfleet, who lived in the reign of king Edward VI. and left three sons, of whom John was ancestor of the Sedleys, of Southfleet and Aylesford; Robert was the second son, and Nicholas the third son, by Jane, daughter and coheir of Edward Isaac, esq. of Bekesborne, afterwards married to Sir Henry Palmer, left one son, Isaac Sidley, who was of Great Chart, created a baronet in 1621, and sheriff of this county in the 2d year of Charles I. whose son Sir John Sidley, knight and baronet, purchased St. Cleres, as above-mentioned. (fn. 8) He left two sons, Isaac and John, who both succeeded to the title of baronet. The eldest son, Sir Isaac Sidley, bart. succeeded his father in this estate, and was of St. Cleres, as was his son, Sir Charles Sidley, bart. who dying without issue in 1702, was buried in Ightham church. By his will he devised this manor, with the seat and his estates in this parish, to his uncle John, who succeeded him in the title of baronet, for his life, with remainder to George Sedley, his eldest son, in tale male. But Sir Charles having been for some time before his death, and at the time of his making his will of weak understanding, and under undue influence, Sir John Sedley contested the validity of it, and it was set aside by the sentence in the prerogative court of Canterbury.
Soon after which Sir John, and his son George Sedley above-mentioned, entered into an agreement, by which Sir John Sedley waved his right as heir at law, and his further right to contest the will. In consequence of which an act of parliament was obtained for the settling in trustees the manor of West Aldham, alias St. Cleres, with its appurtenances, and the capital messuage called St. Cleres, in Ightham, and other messuages and lands in Ightham, Wrotham, Kemsing, Seal, &c. that they might be sold for the purposes of the agreement, which the whole of them were soon afterwards to William Evelyn, esq. the fifth son of George Evelyn, esq. of Nutfield, in Surry, who afterwards resided here, and in 1723 was sheriff of this county.
He married first the daughter and heir of William Glanvill, esq. and in the 5th year of king George I. obtained an act of parliament to use the surname and arms of Glanvill only, the latter being Argent, a chief indented azure, pursuant to the will of William Glanvill, esq. above-mentioned. By her he had an only daughter Frances, married to the hon. Edward Boscawen, next brother to Hugh, viscount Falmouth, and admiral of the British fleet. His second wife was daughter of Jones Raymond, esq. who died in 1761, by whom he had William Glanvill Evelyn, esq. who on his father's decease in 1766, succeeded to St. Cleres and the rest of his estates in this county. In 1757 he kept his shrievalty at St. Cleres, where he resides at present, and is one of the representatives in parliament for Hythe, in this county.
He married about the year 1760, Susan, one of the two daughters and coheirs of Thomas Borrett, esq. of Shoreham, late prothonotary of the court of common pleas, by whom he had a son, William Evelyn, esq. who died in 1788 at Blandford-lodge, near Woodstock, by a fall from his horse, æct. 21, and unmarried; and a daughter Frances, afterwards his sole heir, married in 1782 to Alexander Hume, esq. of Hendley, in Surry, brother of Sir Abraham Hume, who in 1797 had the royal licence to take and use the name and arms of Evelyn only, and he now resides at St. Clere.
THE MOAT is another borough in this parish, in which is the manor and seat of that name, lying at the southern extremity of it next to Shipborne, which in the reign of king Henry II. was in the possession of Ivo de Haut, and his descendant, Sir Henry de Haut, died possessed of it in the 44th year of Edward III. as appears by the escheat roll of that year. His son, Sir Edmund de Haut, died in his life-time, so that his grandson, Nicholas Haut, became his heir, and succeeded him in the possession of this estate. (fn. 9)
He was sheriff in the 19th year of king Richard II. and kept his shrievalty at Wadenhall, in this county. He left two sons, William, who was of Bishopsborne; and Richard Haut, who succeeded him in this estate, and was sheriff in the 18th and 22d years of king Edward IV. keeping both his shrievalties at this seat of themoat; but having engaged, with several others of the gentry of this county, with the duke of Buckingham, in favor of the Earl of Richmond, he was beheaded at Pontefract, anno 1 Richard III. and afterwards attainted in the 3d year of that reign, and his estates confiscated. (fn. 10) Quickly after which, this manor and seat were granted by that king to Robert Brakenbury, lieutenant of the tower of London, and that year sheriff of this county. He kept possession of the Moat but a small time, for he lost his life with king Richard in the fatal battle of Bosworth, fought that year on August 22, and on the Earl of Richmond's attaining the crown was attainted by an act then passed for the purpose, and though his two daughters were restored in blood by another act four years afterwards, yet the Moat was immediately restored to the heirs of its former owner Richard Haut, whose attainder was likewise reversed, and in their descendants it remained till the latter end of the reign of king Henry VII. when it appears by an old court roll to have been in the possession of Sir Richard Clement, who kept his shrievalty at the Moat in the 23d year of king Henry VIII and bore for his arms, A bend nebulee, in chief three fleurs de lis within a border, gobinated. He died without any legitimate issue, and was buried in the chancel of this church. Upon which his brother, John Clement, and his sister, married to Sir Edward Palmer, of Angmering, in Sussex, became his coheirs, but the former succeeded to the entire fee of this estate.
John Clement died without male issue, leaving an only daughter and heir Anne, who carried the Moat in marriage to Hugh Pakenham, and he, in the reign of king Edward VI. joining with Sir William Sydney, who had married Anne, his only daughter and heir passed it away to Sir John Allen, who had been of the privy council to king Henry VIII. and lord mayor of London in the year 1526 and 1536. He was of the company of mercers, a man of liberal charity. He gave to the city of London a rich collar of gold, to be worn by the succeeding lord-mayors: also five hundred marcs as a stock for sea coal, and the rents of those lands which he had purchased of the king, to the poor of London for ever; and during his life he gave bountifully to the hospitals, prisons, &c. of that city. He built the mercers chapel in Cheapside, in which his body was buried, which was afterwards moved into the body of the hospital church of St. Thomas, of Acon, and the chapel made into shops by the mercer's company. He bore for his arms, In three roundlets, as many talbots passant, on a chief a lion passant guardant between two anchors. (fn. 11)
He left a son and heir Sir Christopher Allen, whose son and heir, Charles Allen, esq. succeeded his father in this estate, and resided at the Moat, which he afterwards sold at the latter end of the reign of queen Elizabeth to Sir William Selby, younger brother of Sir John Selby, of Branxton, in Northumberland. He resided here in the latter part of his life, and died greatly advanced in years in 1611, unmarried, and was buried in this church, bearing for his arms, Barry of twelve pieces, or and azure. He by his will gave this estate to his nephew, Sir William Selby, who resided here, and died likewise without issue, and by his will, for the sake of the name gave the Moat to Mr. George Selby, of London, who afterwards resided here, and was sheriff in the 24th year of king Charles I. and bore for his arms, Barry of eight pieces, or and sable. He died in 1667, leaving several sons and daughters. Of whom William Selby, esq. the eldest son, succeeded to this estate, and was of the Moat. He married Susan, daughter of Sir John Rainey, bart. of Wrotham, by whom he had several children, of whom John Selby, esq. the eldest son, was of the Moat, and by Mary his wife, one of the three daughters and coheirs of Thomas Gifford, esq. left two sons, William, who succeeded him in this seat and estate at Ightham, and John Selby, esq. who was of Pennis, in Fawkham, and died unmarried.
William Selby resided at the Moat, of which he died possessed in 1773, leaving his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Mr. Burroughs, surviving, who afterwards possessed this seat and resided here. She died in 1788, and her only son, William Selby, esq. of Pennis, having deceased in 1777, and his only daughter and heir likewise, Elizabeth Borough Selby, by Elizabeth his wife, one of the daughters of John Weston, esq. of Cranbrook, under age, and unmarried in 1781. This seat, with her other estates in this county, devolved to John Brown, esq. who has since taken the name of Selby, and now resides at the Moat, of which he is the present possessor.
The park, called Ightham park, has been already mentioned under the parish of Wrotham, to which the reader is referred.
It appears by the visitation of 1619, that there was a branch of the Suliards, of Brasted, then residing in this parish.
John Gull resided in this parish in the reign of king Henry VIII. and died here in 1547.
Charities.
HENRY PEARCE gave by will in 1545, to be distributed to the poor in bread yearly the annual sum of 6s. 8d. charged on land now vested in Cozens, and she gave besides to be distributed to the poor in bread at Easter yearly, 40l. now of the annual produce of 2l. and for the providing of books for poor children to learn the catechism, the sum of 10l. now of the annual produce of 10s.
HENRY FAIRBRASSE gave by will in 1601, to be distributed in like manner, the annual sum of 1l. to be paid out of land now vested in William Hacket.
WILLIAM JAMES, ESQ. gave by will in 1627, to be distributed in bread to the poor every Sunday, the annual sum of 2l. 12s. to be paid out of lands now vested in Rich. James, esq.
GEORGE PETLEY gave by will in 1705, to be distributed in like manner, every Sunday, 2s. the annual sum of 5l. 4s. to be paid out of land vested in William Evelyn, esq.
ELIZABETH JAMES, gave by will in 1720, for the education of poor children, the annual sum of 5l. to be paid out of land now vested in Elizabeth Solley.
IGHTHAM is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Rochester, and being a peculiar of the archbishop, is as such in the deanry of Shoreham.
¶The church is dedicated to St. Peter. Under an arch on the north side of it, there is a tomb of free stone, having on it a very antient figure at full length of a man in armour, ornamented with a rich belt, sword and dagger, his head resting on two cushions, and a lion at his feet, over his whole breast are his arms, viz. A lion rampant, ermine, double queued. This is by most supposed to be the tomb of Sir Thomas Cawne, who married Lora, daughter and heir of Sir Thomas Morant. He was originally extracted from Staffordshire: he probably died without issue, and his widow remarried with James Peckham, esq. of Yaldham. His arms, impaling those of Morant, were in one of the chancel windows of this church.
The rectory is valued in the king's books at 15l. 16s. 8d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 11s. 8d. It is now of the yearly value of about 200l.
The patronage of this rectory seems to have been always accounted an appendage to the manor of Ightham, as such it is now the property of Richard James, esq. of Ightham-court.
Beluga Whale
"Male belugas are larger than females. Males can reach 5.5 metres (18 ft) long, while females grow to 4.1 metres (13 ft). Males weigh between 1,100 and 1,600 kilograms (2,400 and 3,500 lb) while females weigh between 700 and 1,200 kilograms (1,500 and 2,600 lb). This is larger than most dolphins, but is smaller than most other toothed whales.
The adult beluga is rarely mistaken for another species, because it is completely white or whitish-gray in color. Calves, however, are usually gray. Its head is unlike that of any other cetacean. Like most toothed whales it has a melon—an oily, fatty tissue lump found at the center of the forehead. The beluga's melon is extremely bulbous and even malleable. The beluga is able to change the shape of its head by blowing air around its sinuses. Unlike many dolphins and whales, the vertebrae in the neck are not fused together, allowing the animal to turn its head laterally. The rostrum has about 8 to 10 teeth on each side of the jaw and a total of 34 to 40 teeth.
Belugas are highly sociable. Groups of males may number in the hundreds, while mothers with calves generally mix in slightly smaller groups. When pods aggregate in estuaries, they may number in the thousands. This can represent a significant proportion of the entire population and is when they are most vulnerable to hunting.
Pods tend to be unstable, meaning that they tend to move from pod to pod. Radio tracking has shown that belugas can start out in a pod and within a few days be hundreds of miles away from that pod. Mothers and calves form the beluga's closest social relationship. Nursing times of two years have been observed and lactational anestrus may not occur. Calves often return to the same estuary as their mother in the summer, meeting her sometimes even after becoming fully mature.
Belugas can be playful—they may spit at humans or other whales. It is not unusual for an aquarium handler to be drenched by one of his charges. Some researchers believe that spitting originated with blowing sand away from crustaceans at the sea bottom.
Unlike most whales, it is capable of swimming backwards.
Males reach sexual maturity between four and seven years, while females mature at between six and nine years. The beluga can live more than 50 years."
- Courtesy of Wikipdida
Marineland
"If you are in the Niagara Falls area and want to find a fun activity for the kids to enjoy, try Marineland Canada. At Marineland Canada kids will be thrilled to see sea lions, dolphins and killer whales in shows and up-close in an observation tank. There’s also a wildlife display where children can feed and pet deer and see bears and elk. If this weren’t enough, there are also a number of theme-park rides and three restaurants.
Marineland Niagara Falls Canada is one of the only marine parks in the world that allows visitors the opportunity to get up-close and personal with the amazing marine animals. A tried-and-true favorite is the aquarium theatre show performances by dolphins, killer whales, sea lions, and of course, King Waldorf, the walrus. The King Waldorf Stadium Show takes place throughout the day at regular intervals. Get there early to get a good seat because seating is on a first-come, first-served basis and guests are not allowed in once a show has started.
To see killer whales close up, children can go to Friendship Cove, a 4.5 million gallon observation tank. Friendship Cove is home to the largest whale habitat in the world, and Marineland Canada has created overhead walkways and underwater viewing for some dramatic views of these amazing creatures. There is another aquarium which displays freshwater fish that kids will have fun observing as well.
Similar to the Friendship Cove design, Marineland Niagara Falls Canada has created Arctic Cove, home to the beluga whales. Artic Cove is beautifully designed with extensive rockwork made to reflect the beluga whale’s natural ocean environment. Like Friendship Cove, Marineland Ontario has built several walkways around the habitat for great viewing of the whales. The underwater viewing panels allow visitors to watch the beautiful creatures as they dive and swim and interact with each other. Kids will really love the opportunity to feed the friendly beluga whales. Marineland Ontario holds touching and feeding sessions with the animals regularly throughout the day, though you must buy tickets for this activity.
At Marineland Ontario, the whole family will enjoy getting close to the animals that live both on land and in the sea. There are elk and deer in the park that you can touch and feed if you so desire. At the fish-feeding lake guests can feed fish and watch playful black bears, powerful buffaloes, majestic elk and other fascinating animals of the wild.
Marineland Niagara Falls Canada also has all of the amusement park rides that kids love. There is a roller coaster, a Ferris wheel, Dragon Boat rides and a big playground. The most exhilarating ride of all is Dragon Mountain, a roller coaster that loops and winds through 1,000 feet of tunnels."
- Courtesy of Destination 360
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I won't be able to remeber he's tryingh to remember EVERYTHING and abbot Duds the GOvernment for a early election on new electrole funding Lawrie oaks blew up in his face The date is set a non confidence vote maybe the cross benches....
and in ceasar wife saying ADONI not all those who call HIM lord can't change the rules when?
they are roman catholics THE hammock 50000 The great assembly...flash forward to the coachman and the groange Jack the ripper...serial killers..
THis one is terrirotial MY NAME IS DAVID CAPPER...we all know bug here
I even hear of one that takes orders from his talking dog to KILL
and then IN our age christian FIGHT...your choice and the chaved eyebrow playing on your mind...all those dead children....all those that LUV'd you...and in nostalgia When I was two after they spiked her mothers head a christian and I know it's childish...shaving off somone eyebrow..and at st johns colleged and they bedded her I suppose we'll go "home" for sex...and the kids attacked....and maimed them the best of the best GLAditors so you were maimed in the coleuem Once were warriors..a maimed man will do anything to regain his HONOUR and scarhead rubs his scare rascals eating people is part of our culture...street rules..CASINO that's the last time they A FUCKING TALK SHOW what the fuck is going on OUT there says the KANSAS bosses
because because because...and in nostalgia I feel down and when i was two years old a maimed man will ragain your honour and lash says the render won't stick..RENDERED in christian taosis as ALLAH
and then they attacked them all THE ONE sabir..IT will take a simple country girl..the city is full of murderers and theives...and then her name in nostiagias and the kids maimed the gladitors..the best of the best...IT's not really a porbl;em that will cause misunderstanding not even a concern and abbot says a word...IT's really more like a pearl CULtured pearls a treadmill the man who taught me how to grow oysters in canberra under the flight path a farm A TREADMIKLL wait till the daughters of rome and cesar called ceasa and the kids played tunnelball...with her own mothers head welcome to deathcamp...and then maybe we should have a who's who of rome an yearly annual...the rabbit and she escapped colkecuem after running up and down a wall a net superspring...like a pearl cultured pearl and on a farm under a flight path with bore water COme to the 9 am job interview can't the bore water doesn't defrost till NOON...and many go to work at DEF deaprtment SALE of the centuary and have their showers there don't go for the cash..should be on millionare but all those tempataions and the boobies victorian england is ripe for one of these men the royals are investigating jack the ripper..he will strike tonight I"m sure FEAR fleet street and ILL I'll kill them all..your are in maori PUMPM? go rebiuild your cathidrel and lash reads tibetan book of the living and the dead with one tit...
Thursday morning, and all I had to do was get back to Kent. Hopefully before five so I could hand the hire car back, but getting back safe and sound would do, really.
I woke at six so I could be dressed for breakfast at half six when it started, and as usual when in a hotel, I had fruit followed by sausage and bacon sarnies. And lots of coffee.
Outside it had snowed. OK, it might only be an inch of the stuff, but that's more than an inch needed to cause chaos on the roads.
Back to the room to pack, one last look round and back to reception to check out, then out into the dawn to find that about a quarter of the cars were having snow and ice cleared off them before being able to be driven.
I joined them, scraping the soft snow then the ice. Bracing stuff at seven in the morning.
Now able to see out, I inched out of the car park and out to the exit and onto the untreated roads.
It was a picturesque scene, but not one I wanted to stop to snap. My first road south had only been gritted on one side, thankfully the side I was travelling down, but was still just compacted snow.
After negotiating two roundabouts, I was on the on ramp to the M6, and a 60 mile or so drive south. The motorway was clear of snow, but huge amounts of spray was thrown up, and the traffic was only doing 45mph, or the inside lane was, and that was quite fast and safe enough for me.
More snow fell as I neared Stoke, just to add to the danger of the journey, and then the rising sun glinted off the road, something which I had most of the drive home.
I went down the toll road, it costs eight quid, but is quick and easy. And safe too with so little traffic on it. I think for the first time, I didn't stop at the services, as it was only about half nine, and only three hours since breakfast.
And by the time I was on the old M6, there was just about no snow on the ground, and the road was beginning to dry out.
My phone played the tunes from my apple music store. Loudly. So the miles slipped by.
After posting some shots from Fotheringhay online, a friend, Simon, suggested others nearby that were worth a visit, and I also realised that I hadn't taken wide angle shots looking east and west, so I could drop in there, then go to the others suggested.
And stopping here was about the half way point in the journey so was a good break in the drive, and by then the clouds had thinned and a weak sin shone down.
Fotheringhay is as wonderful as always, it really is a fine church, easy to stop there first, where I had it to myself, and this time even climbed into the richly decorated pulpit to snap the details.
A short drive away was Apethorpe, where there was no monkey business. The village was built of all the same buttery yellow sandstone, looking fine in the weak sunshine.
Churches in this part of Northamptonshire are always open, Simon said.
Not at Apethorpe. So I made do with snapping the church and the village stocks and whipping post opposite.
A short drive up the hill was King's Cliffe. Another buttery yellow village and a fine church, which I guessed would be open.
Though it took some finding, as driving up the narrow high street I failed to find the church. I checked the sat nav and I had driven right past it, but being down a short lane it was partially hidden behind a row of houses.
The church was open, and was surrounded by hundreds of fine stone gravestones, some of designs I have not seen before, but it was the huge numbers of them that was impressive.
Inside the church was fine, if cold. I record what I could, but my compact camera's batter had died the day before, and I had no charger, so just with the nifty fifty and the wide angle, still did a good job of recording it.
There was time for one more church. Just.
For those of us who remember the seventies, Warmington means Dad's Army, or rather Warmington on Sea did. THat there is a real Warmington was a surprise to me, and it lay just a couple of miles the other side of Fotheringhay.
The church is large, mostly Victorian after it fell out of use and became derelict, if the leaflet I read inside was accurate. But the renovation was excellent, none more so than the wooden vaulted roof with bosses dating to either the 15th or 16th centuries.
Another stunning item was the pulpit, which looks as though it is decorated with panels taken from the Rood Screen. Very effective.
Back to the car, I program the sat nav for home, and set off back to Fotheringhay and the A14 beyond.
No messing around now, just press on trying to make good time so to be home before dark, and time to go home, drop my bags, feed the cats before returning the car.
No real pleasure, but I made good time, despite encountering several bad drivers, who were clearly out only to ruin my mood.
Even the M25 was clear, I raced to the bridge, over the river and into Kent.
Nearly home.
I drive back down the A2, stopping at Medway services for a sandwich and a huge coffee on the company's credit card.
And that was that, just a blast down to Faversham, round onto the A2 and past Canterbury and to home, getting back at just after three, time to fill up the bird feeders, feed the cats, unpack and have a brew before going out at just gone four to return the car.
Jools would rescue me from the White Horse on her way home, so after being told the car was fine, walked to the pub and ordered two pints of Harvey's Best.
There was a guy from Essex and his American girlfriend, who were asking about all sorts of questions about Dover's history, and I was the right person to answer them.
I was told by a guide from the Castle I did a good job.
Yay me.
Jools arrived, so I went out and she took me home. Where the cats insisted they had not been fed.
Lies, all lies.
Dinner was teriyaki coated salmon, roasted sprouts and back, defrosted from before Christmas, and noodles.
Yummy.
Not much else to tell, just lighting the fire, so Scully and I would be toast warm watch the exciting Citeh v Spurs game, where Spurs were very Spursy indeed.
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I was exploring the churches of north-east Northamptonshire, and on my way back to Peterborough station how could I resist a visit to lovely Warmington church? The village is rather a suburban one but, the solid little entirely Early English church sits at its heart. Entirely a Huntingdonshire church in style, with a stubby spire and big dormer-style lucarnes.
I had previously visited almost exactly a year ago, and as before I left my bike in the Early English porch, which is vaulted in blocks of stone, handsome yet familiar. I remembered in 2015 stepping into what turned out to be then the most interesting interior of the day, although rather overshadowed by Apethorpe and Blatherwycke on my current trip. The most striking feature, and rather a surprising one, is that the roof of the nave is vaulted in wood. This was done in the 13th Century, and the bosses survive from that time - even more surprising, they all depict green men, nine of them. Why was this not done elsewhere?
The rood screen is one of the best in the area, and the medieval pulpit appears to be constructed of rood screen panels (can that be right? Did they come from the rood loft? Surely it is pre-Reformation, in which case perhaps they came from somewhere else). Lots to think about. A good church, it would be considered so in any county.
So I got back on my bike and headed on towards Peterborough, but not without a memory of the last time I had done the same thing, because in 2015, as I was about to leave the church, three young women came in. They were walking the Nene Way, and were attired as you might expect attractive young women to be on such a sunny day. I didn't want them to be made nervous by the presence of a middle-aged man with a camera, so I nodded a greeting as I left, but in the event they engaged me in conversation, asking me where I'd come from, telling me what they were doing, where they were going, and so on.
In the end I had to make my apologies and leave as they didn't seem to want to let me go, not an experience I have very often these days, I can tell you. It rather put me in mind of the Sirens episode in the Odyssey.
And so I headed on, wary now of any wandering rocks and one-eyed giants.
www.flickr.com/photos/norfolkodyssey/27033140016/in/photo...
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St Michael’s Parish Church, Warmington
Warmington was already an established farming community when its assets were recorded in Domesday Book. Shortly afterwards, its Norman owner, the Earl of Warwick, gave the manor of Warmington to the Benedictine Abbey which his father had endowed in Normandy, St.Peter’s at Preaux. Warmington was to remain in monastic hands, with one short break, for about 450 years. Monks were sent over from Preaux who built a small Priory. Its foundations were discovered when houses were built in Court Close in the 1950s. The Priory has disappeared, but the splendid church built under the monks’ supervision, mainly in the early medieval period, remains.
The church stands high above the village, close to the summit of Warmington Hill. Tradition tells us that the stone for building it was dug close by, in the area known as Catpits, or Churchpits. The stone for the tower was brought from a field known as Turpits, or Towerpits, a quarter of a mile away along the Hornton road. The churchyard is entered either by the lych-gate from the main road, or from the village by two long flights of steps. A diagonal line of pine trees marks the former boundary of the churchyard which was extended in the 1850s. In the older part, and especially near the south porch, are gravestones of exceptionally fine workmanship dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. About eighty of these are ‘listed’ by the Department of the Environment. All the inscribed memorials were recorded in 1981.
An admirable and detailed architectural description of the church is available in the Victoria County History. These notes are intended rather as a ‘layman’s conducted tour’. The church was purpose-built and used for the first half of its long life for forms of worship very different from our own. It was also the village meeting place for many secular purposes The church comprises north and south porches, nave with north and south aisles, a west tower and chancel with two-storey vestry adjoining.
As you enter the church by the south porch you walk forward into the nave. This area, with the first three pillars on each side, is where Warmington people have met and worshipped since the twelfth century. The area was extended by the addition of the aisles a century later. Today the overwhelming impression is a sense of simplicity, of space and of strength. Imagine the scene in the medieval period: no pews but white-washed walls covered with paintings, images of the saints in stone, on wood and painted cloths, the whole lit by the sunlight through stained glass and by candles and lamps burning before every image. On Sundays before Mass, at special festivals and for some fifty saints’ days in the year, a procession would form, with banners and hand bells, winding its way around the church and churchyard, and stopping at various points for particular acts of worship. The north and west doors, so rarely used today, had significance in these processions.
Before leaving this area of the church, notice the variety of windows, almost all of early date, but now mostly with clear glass. The ones at the east ends of the aisles, where the stone plate is pierced with roundels and a five-pointed star, are unusual. Considerable work has been undertaken in recent years in renewing the stone mullions, worn by the weather over time. The early Norman tub font of simple design is large enough for infant immersion. The aisles both taper by a foot, one to the east, and one to the west. The nave and chancel are slightly out of alignment, perhaps symbolic of Christ’s drooping head on the cross.
Before stepping down into the chancel, run your hand along the wooden screen under the chancel arch. This is all that remains of the great rood-screen which would have dominated the medieval church. The screen was hacked through quite roughly when the church was stripped of its ‘idolatrous’ treasures at the Reformation. Just to the right of the chancel arch is the doorway and stair which used to lead to the rood-screen loft.
The stained glass and memorial tablets in the chancel all commemorate the family of the Victorian rector during whose incumbency the church was restored. On the south wall are a richly decorated triple sedilia and piscina, dating from the fifteenth century when Warmington manor had newly passed to the Carthusian monks of Wytham in Somerset.
A door from the chancel leads into the vestry, built about 1340. The lower room was a chapel, dedicated to St Thomas. The stone altar shows four of its five original crosses cut in the top. An altar would have a piscina nearby for washing the vessels used at Mass. The piscina here has a trefoiled ogee-head and quartrefoil basin. On the opposite wall is a blocked fireplace.
The oak doors and stairway are delightful and a testament to the skills of local carpenters, smiths and masons. The upper room was the priest’s home complete with windows, commanding extensive views, fireplace, lavatory and a shuttered opening for keeping watch over the main alter. The exterior walls of the vestry are extraordinarily thick. One Warmington tradition was that it was used as a prison for recalcitrant monks!
A more credible and interesting suggestion is that the walls were so constructed to carry the weight of a tower. If this was indeed the plan, it was quickly abandoned, for soon after the vestry was built work started on the tower in the usual Warwickshire position at the west end of the nave.
The slightly different stonework on the exterior indicates the stages of its building. The tower is recessed slightly into the nave, presumably to accommodate it in the very limited land there was available for extending the church at the west end. A stair within the thickness of the wall gives access to the bell chamber and the roof. The flight is steep and the treads are worn down to the bottom of the risers. The present bells are dated 1602, 1613 and 1811.
There are many interesting gravestones in the churchyard, which were recorded by members of Warmington WI in a 1981 survey.
VICTORIA COUNTY HISTORY
WARMINGTON
This extract from the Victoria County History gives a very detailed description of the parish church.
The church stands directly on the east side of the main road from Banbury to Warwick at the top of a steep gradient and the village lies mostly to the northeast of it at a lower level. The parish church of ST. MICHAEL, or ST. NICHOLAS, consists of a chancel, north chapel with a priest’s chamber above it, nave, north and south aisles and porches and a west tower.
The nave dates from the 12th century; no detail is left to indicate its original date but it was of the proportion of two squares, common in the early 12th century. A north aisle was added first, about the middle of the 12th century, with an arcade of three bays; a south aisle followed, near the end of the 12th century, also with a three-bay arcade. After about a century a considerable enlargement was begun and continued over a period of half a century or more; the nave was lengthened eastwards about 10 ft. and a new chancel built. The extra length of the side walls added to the nave perhaps remained unpierced at first.
Although there is a general sameness in the Hornton stone ashlar walling throughout, all the various parts—chancel, chapel, aisles, and tower—have different plinths, &c., and there is a great variation in the elevations and details of the windows, showing constant changes from the 14th century, when there was much activity, onwards, probably because of decay and need for repair caused by the church’s exposed position on the brow of a hill.
The south aisle was widened to its present limits about 1290, on the evidence of the wide splays and other details of its windows; but an early-13th-century doorway was re-used. It is possible that the east part of the north aisle followed soon afterwards, c. 1300, as a kind of transeptal chapel, on the evidence of its east window, which differs from the other aisle windows. From c. 1330–40 much was done. The chancel arch was widened, new bays to match were inserted in the east lengths of the nave walls, making both arcades now of four bays, the widening of the whole of the north aisle was completed with the addition of the north porch. The 12th-century north arcade, which seems to have lost its inner order, was probably rebuilt. There is a curious distortion about both aisles, perhaps only explained by the widenings being made in more than one period; the north aisle tapers from west to east and the south aisle tapers from east to west, about a foot each, as compared with the lines of the arcades. The south porch was probably added about 1330.
About 1340 came also the addition of the chapel with the priest’s chamber above it. The north wall of the chancel, probably of the 13th century and thinner than any of the other walls, was kept to form the south wall of the chapel, but the other walls were made unusually thick, as though it was at first intended to raise a higher superstructure than was actually carried out, perhaps even a tower. If such was the intention it was quickly abandoned and the west tower was begun about 1340–5 and carried up to some two-thirds of its present height. There was not much room above the road-side and it had to encroach 2 or 3 ft. into the west end of the nave. The top stage was added or completed in the 15th century.
With the addition of the chapel, alterations were made to the chancel windows, but its south wall had to be rebuilt in the 15th century, when new and larger windows were inserted and the piscina and sedilia constructed.
There have been many repairs and renovations, notably in 1867 to the chancel and 1871 for the rest of the church, and others since then. The roofs have been entirely renewed, though probably more or less of the original forms of the 14th or 15th centuries.
The chancel (about 30½ft. by 16½ft.) has an east window of four trefoiled pointed lights and modern tracery of 14th-century character in a two-centred head with an external hood-mould having head-stops. The jambs and arch, of two moulded orders, and the hood-mould are early-14th-century. In the north wall is a 14th-century doorway into the chapel with jambs and ogee head of three moulded orders and a hoodmould with head-stops, the eastern a cowled man’s, the western a woman’s. It contains an ancient oak door, with stout diagonal framing at the back and hung with plain strap-hinges. At the west end of the wall are two windows close together; the eastern, of c. 1340, of two trefoiled ogee-headed lights and cusped piercings in a square head with an external label having decayed head-stops. It has a shouldered internal lintel which is carved with grotesque faces. The western is a narrower and earlier 14th-century window of two trefoiled ogee-headed lights and a quatrefoil, &c., in a square head with an external label.
The window at the west end of the south wall is similar. The other two are 15th-century insertions, each of two wide cinquefoiled three-centred lights under a square head with head-stops, one a cowled human head, the other beast-heads. The jambs and lintel of two sunk-chamfered orders are old, the rest restored. The rear lintel is also sunk-chamfered and is supported in the middle by a shaped stone bracket from the mullion.
The 14th-century priest’s doorway has jambs and two-centred ogee head of two ovolo-moulded orders and a cambered internal lintel; it has no hood-mould.
Below the south-east window is a 15th-century piscina with small side pilasters that have embattled heads, and a trefoiled ogee head enriched with crockets. The sill, which projects partly as a moulded corbel, has a round basin. West of it are three sedilia of the same character with cinquefoiled ogee heads also crocketed and with finials. At the springing level are carved human-head corbels: the cusp-points are variously carved, an acorn, a snake’s head, a skull, and foliage. The two outer are surmounted by crocketed and finialled gables and all are flanked and divided by pilasters with embattled heads and crocketed pinnacles.
The east wall is built of yellow-grey ashlar with a projecting splayed plinth; the gable-head has been rebuilt. At the south-east angle is a pair of square buttresses of two stages, probably later additions, as the plinth is not carried round them. Another at the former north-east angle has been restored. The south wall is of yellow ashlar but has a moulded plinth of the 15th century. The eaves have a hollow-moulded course with which the uprights of the 15th-century window-labels are mitred.
The 14th-century chancel arch has responds and pointed head of two ovolo-moulded orders interrupted at the springing line by the abacus.
The roof with arched trusses is modern and is covered with tiles.
The north chapel (about 12 ft. east to west by 17 ft. deep) is now used as the vestry, and dates from c. 1340. In its south wall, the thin north wall of the chancel, is a straight joint 3¼ft. from the east wall probably marking the east jamb of a former 13th-century window, and below it is the remnant of an early stringcourse that is chamfered on its upper edge. The east wall is 3 ft. 10 in. thick and the north wall 4 ft. 6 in. In the middle of each is a rectangular one-light window with moulded jambs and head of two orders and an external label; the internal reveals are half splayed and part squared at the inner edges and have a flat stone lintel. The lights were probably cusped originally. In the west wall is a filled-in square-headed fire-place, perhaps original. Partly in the recess of the east window and partly projecting is an ancient thick stone altarslab showing four of the original five crosses cut in the top. It has a hollow-chamfered lower edge and is supported by moulded stone corbels. South of it in the east wall is a piscina with a trefoiled ogee-head and hood-mould and a quatrefoil basin.
The stair-vice that leads up to the story above is in the south-west angle, its doorway being splayed westwards to avoid the doorway to the chancel. In it is an ancient oak door with one-way diagonal framing on the back. The turret projects externally to the west in the angle with the chancel wall; it is square in the lower part but higher is broadened northwards with a splay that is corbelled out below in three courses, the lowest corbel having a trefoiled ogee or blind arch cut in it. The top is tabled back up to the eaves of the chapel west wall. A moulded string-course passes round the projection and there is another half-way up the tabling. The doorway at the top of the spiral stair leading into the upper chamber has an ancient oak door hung with three strap-hinges.
The upper priest’s chamber has an east window of two plain square-headed lights, probably altered. In the north wall is a rectangular window that was of two lights but has lost its mullion. Outside it has a false pointed head of two trefoiled ogee-headed lights and leaf tracery, all of it blank, and a hood-mould with human-head stops, one cowled. Apparently this treatment was purely for decorative purposes, like the square-headed windows at Shotteswell and elsewhere. The south wall is pierced by a watching-hole into the chancel, which is fitted with an iron grill and oak shutter: it has been reduced from a larger opening that had an ogee head and hood-mould. There is a square-headed fire-place in the west wall and in the splayed north-west angle is the entrance to a garderobe or latrine, which is lighted by a north loop.
The walls are of yellow ashlar and have a plinth of two courses, the upper moulded, a moulded stringcourse at first-floor level, and moulded eaves-courses at the sides. The north wall is gabled and has a parapet with string-course and coping. At the angles are diagonal buttresses of two stages; the lower stage is 2½ft. broad up to the first-floor level, above this the upper stage is reduced to about half the breadth. They support square diagonal pinnacles with restored crocketed finials. The west wall is unpierced but above it is a plain square chimney-shaft with an open-side hood on top. Internally the walls are faced with whitish-brown ashlar. The gabled roof is modern and of two bays.
The nave (about 41½ft. by 16½ft.) has north and south arcades of four bays. The easternmost bay on each side, with the first pillar, is of the same detail and date as the chancel arch. They vary in span, the north being about 9 ft. and the south about 10 ft., and in both cases the span is less than those of the older bays. Those on the north side are of 11–12 ft. span and date from the middle of the 12th century. The pillars are circular, the west respond a half-circle, with scalloped capitals, 6 in. high and square in the deep-browed upper part and with a 4½in. grooved and hollowchamfered abacus. The bases are chamfered and stand on square sub-bases. The arches are pointed and of one square order with a plain square hood-mould, The voussoirs are small. The middle parts of the soffits are plastered between the flush inner ends of the voussoirs, suggesting a former inner order, abolished perhaps in a rebuilding of the heads.
The same three bays of the south side are of 11 ft. span and of late-12th-century date. The round pillars are rather more slender than the northern, and the capitals are taller, 12 in. high, with long and shallow scallops, and have 4 in. abaci like the northern. The bases are taller and moulded in forms approaching those of the 13th century, on chamfered square sub-bases.
The pointed arches are of one chamfered order and their hood-moulds are now flush with the plastered wall-faces above.
The half-round west responds of both arcades have been overlapped on the nave side by the east wall of the tower.
High above the 14th-century south-east respond is a 15th-century four-centred doorway to the former rood-loft. The stair-vice leading up to it is entered by a four-centred doorway in the east wall of the south aisle.
The north aisle (11½ft. wide at the east end and 12½ft. at the west) has an uncommon east window of c. 1300. It is of three plain-pointed rather narrow lights; above the middle light, which has a shorter pointed head than the others, is a circle enclosing a pierced five-pointed star, all in a two-centred head with an external hood-mould having defaced head-stops, and with a chamfered rear-arch.
Set fairly close together at the east end of the north wall are two tall windows of c. 1340, each of two trefoiled round-headed lights and foiled leaf-tracery below a segmental-pointed head with an ogee apex, the tracery coming well below the arch. The jambs are of two orders, the outer sunk-chamfered. The lights are wider and the splays of ashlar are more acute than those of the east window.
The third window near the west end is narrower and shorter and of two plain-pointed lights and an uncusped spandrel in a two-centred head: it is of much the same date as the east window. The jambs and head are of two hollow-chamfered orders and the fairly obtuse plastered splays have old angle-dressings. The segmental-pointed rear-arch is chamfered.
The north doorway, also of c. 1340, has jambs and two-centred head without a hood-mould; the segmental rear-arch is of square section. In it is an 18th-century oak door.
The three-light window in the west wall has jambs and splays like those of the north-west but its head has been altered; it is now of three trefoiled ogee-headed lights below a four-centred arch. The chamfered reararch is elliptical.
The walls are yellow ashlar with a chamfered plinth and parapets with moulded string-courses and copings that are continued over the east and west gables. Below the sills of the two north-east windows is a plain stringcourse. At the east angle is a pair of shallow square buttresses and a diagonal buttress at the west, all ancient. White ashlar facing is exposed inside between the two north-east windows only, the remainder being plastered. The gabled roof of trussed-rafter type is modern and covered with tiles.
The south aisle (13 ft. wide at the east end and 12 ft. at the west) has an east window of three plain-pointed lights, and three plain circles in plate tracery form, in a two-centred head with an external hood-mould having mask stops. The yellow stone jambs and head of two chamfered orders and the wide ashlar splays are probably of the late 13th century; the grey stone mullions and tracery are apparently old restorations but are probably reproductions of the original forms.
There are two south windows: the eastern is of two wide cinquefoiled elliptical-headed lights under a square main head with an external label with return stops. The jambs are of two moulded orders, the inner (and the mullion) with small roll-moulds, probably of the 13th century re-used when the window was refashioned in the 15th century. The wide splays are of rubble-work and there is a chamfered segmental reararch. The western is a narrower opening of two trefoiled-pointed lights, with the early form of soffit cusping, and early-14th-century tracery in a twocentred head: the jambs are of two chamfered orders and the wide splays are plastered, with ashlar dressings: the chamfered rear-arch is segmental pointed.
The reset south doorway has jambs and pointed head of two moulded orders with filleted rolls and undercut hollows of the early 13th century, divided by a three-quarter hollow more typical of a later period, and all are stopped on a single splayed base. The hoodmould has defaced shield-shaped head-stops. There are four steps down into the church through this doorway.
The window in the west wall is like that in the east but the three lights are trefoiled and the three circles in the two-centred head are quatrefoiled: the head is all restored work. The jambs are ancient and precisely like those of the square-headed south window, and the wide splays are of rubble-work.
The walls are of yellow fine-jointed ashlar and have plinths of two splayed courses, the upper projecting like that of the east chancel-wall, and plain parapets with restored copings. At the angles are old and rather shallow diagonal buttresses. There are three scratched sundials on the south wall, one, a complete circle, being on a west jambstone of the south-east window.
The gabled roof is modern like that of the north aisle.
The south porch is built of ashlar like that of the aisle but the courses do not tally and it has a different plinth, a plain hollow-chamfer. The gabled south wall has a parapet with a restored coping. The pointed entrance is of two orders, the inner ovolo-moulded, the outer hollow-chamfered, and has a hood-mould of 13thcentury form. There are side benches. The roof is modern but on the wall of the aisle are cemented lines marking the position of an earlier high-pitched roof at a lower level than the present one.
The north porch is of shallower projection. It has a gabled front with diagonal buttresses and coped parapet and a pointed entrance with jambs and head of two chamfered orders, the inner hollow, and a hood-mould with head-stops.
The west tower (about 9½ft. square) is of three stages divided by projecting splayed string-courses: it has a high plinth, with a moulded upper member and chamfered lower course, and a plain parapet. The walls are of yellow ashlar, that of the two upper stages being of rather rougher facing and in smaller courses than the lowest stage. At the west angles are diagonal buttresses reaching to the top of the second stage. There are no east buttresses but in the angle of the north wall with the end of the nave is a shallow buttress against the nave-wall. In the south-west angle, but not projecting, is a stair-vice with a pointed doorway in a splay, and lighted by a west loop. The archway to the nave has a two-centred head of two chamfered orders, the inner dying on the reveals, the outer mitring with the single chamfered order of the responds. It has large voussoirs. The wall on either side of the archway is of squared rough-tooled ashlar.
The 14th-century west doorway has jambs and pointed head of two wave-moulded orders divided by a three-quarter hollow, and a hood-mould with return stops. The head of the tall and narrow 14th-century west window is carried up into the second stage, its hood-mould springing from the string-course. It is of two trefoiled ogee-headed lights and a quatrefoil in a two-centred head: the jambs are of two chamfered orders.
There are no piercings in the second stage, but on the north side is a modern clock face.
The bell-chamber has 15th-century windows, each of two lights with depressed trefoiled ogee heads and uncusped tracery in which the mullion line is continued up to the apex of the two-centred head. The jambs are of two chamfered orders and there is no hood-mould.
The font is circular and dates probably from the 13th century. It has a plain tapering bowl, a short stem with a comparatively large 13th-century moulding at the top: a short base is also moulded.
In the vestry is an ancient iron-bound chest.
There are three bells, the first of 1811, the second of 1616, and the tenor of 1602 by Edward Newcombe.
The registers begin in 1636.
Advowson
The church was valued at £8 6s. 8d. in 1291, and at £16 3s. 10d., in addition to a pension of 13s. 4d. payable to Witham Priory, in 1535. The advowson passed with the manor until 1602, when the patron was Richard Cooper. In 1628 William Hall and Edward Wotton, by concession of — Hill, the patron, presented Richard Wotton, who at the time of his wife’s death in 1637 was ‘rector and patron, of the church’. In 1681 and 1694 presentations were made by Thomas Farrer, and from 1726 till his death in 1764 the patronage was held by his son Thomas Farrer. His widow Alice held it in 1766, but by 1773 it had been divided between their two daughters, Mary wife of John Adams, and Elizabeth Farrer (1782) who afterwards married Hamlyn Harris. In 1802 Henry Bagshaw Harrison was patron and rector. He died in 1830, and by 1850 the advowson had been acquired by Hulme’s Trustees, in whose hands it has continued, so that they now present on two out of three turns to the combined living of Warmington and Shotteswell, which was annexed to it in 1927.
For a list of rectors and clergy of Warmington see the ‘trades and occupations’ section of the site.
www.warmingtonheritage.com/village-history/significant-bu....
This is site where the Christchurch Convention Centre stood. They are busy there building the temple so wasn't able to go closer to see the new art works. August 15, 2013, Christchurch New Zealand.
What is the Temple?
“The Temple for Christchurch” is a large scale interactive art installation that seeks to provide a mechanism for emotional healing alongside the physical rebuilding of the city, and to be a catalyst for reflection on the past three years of earthquakes; from the initial damage caused, the lingering effects, to the process of recovery, and residents’ hopes for the future.
It will be open in the central city on the site of the old Convention Centre on Peterborough St from September 1st-14th, commemorating the anniversary of the first quake to hit Christchurch on September 4th. It will then be relocated to Motukarara racecourse to be ceremonially burned in a public event on September 21st.
The structure itself is a visual interpretation of an earthquakes movement through the ground, with its design is based on the seismic data of the February 22nd earthquake, the largest and most destructive of the earthquakes to hit Christchurch. It is being built by by local volunteers from wood recycled from demolished houses, and will be 40m long, 25m wide and 6.3m tall when completed.
As people visit the Temple they are encouraged to share their stories and experiences with others by adding to the walls of the Temple. People are invited to bring photos, poems, mementos, letters from insurance companies; to write poems, and draw pictures. As more and more people add their stories to the walls, a communal dialogue is created, allowing insight into how others have been affected by the shared history of the earthquakes.
The act of writing out these stories and the emotions associated with them can be a cathartic experience, an opportunity to let go of the of the past and move forward more freely. We encourage people to bring any emotions from their lives they wish to share, both positive and negative, and not just those earthquake related.
The final burning of the Temple signifies the release of the stories it has gathered, and will be the finale to a community event which will include performances, workshops, and speakers from notable Christchurch projects.
“There is a great need for the people of Christchurch to finally let go of the horrific experiences they have suffered from the over a year and a half of almost constant earthquakes. Almost everyone is hurting over the trauma they have been through.
We are not often offered a tangible way to deal with these traumatic experiences, which are either buried and ignored, or dealt with through sometimes lengthy counseling processes. Through our project, we are offering people the chance to write about their experiences, reflect upon those felt by others, and see them all turn into ashes.“
-Hippathy Valentine, Temple Project Manager, Christchurch Resident and Artist
For more info: templeforchristchurch.org/
Info on the Earthquakes: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2011_Christchurch_earthquake
Igtham is well know, at least the nearby moated manor house, Igtham Moat. The village is well travelled through, and many stop here because it is chocolate box picture perfect.
I stopped here at about half ten on a Saturday morning, the place should have been packed with tourists, maybe it will once the pub opens for lunch, but I was able to park in the picturesque village square, take a few shots of the timber-framed buildings, and walk up the hill to the church.
From the lych gate I could see the porch door open, so my hopes were raised, and indeed the church was open, un-manned, and the lights came on, triggered by a pressure pad in the porch.
This I did not know until the lights went out after ten minutes, I went out to find the light switches, returned and the lights were back on.
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The church is built on a steep hillside and displays a rare brick-built north aisle. The chancel is full of unusual memorials, the most noteworthy of which is to Sir Thomas Cawne dating from the end of the fourteenth century. He is wearing armour and chain mail and lies under a canopy beneath a window that forms part of the same composition. In the churchyard is a nice nineteenth-century tomb designed by the famous architect William Burges. The other monuments of note at Ightham are all to the Selby family, the most famous of whom is Dorothy Selby (d. 1641) who is reputed to have had a connection with the Gunpower Plot, although the ambiguous inscription on her tomb is now believed to be no more than an appreciation of her needlework.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Ightham
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IGHTHAM.
WESTWARD from Wrotham lies IGHTHAM, so corruptly called for Eightham, which name it had from the eight boroughs or hams lying within the bounds of it, viz. Eightham, Redwell, Ivybatch, Borough-green, St. Cleres, the Moat, Beaulies, and Oldborough. (fn. 1) In the Textus Roffensis it is spelt EHTEHAM.
THE PARISH of Ightham for the most part is in the vale between the chalk and the sand or quarry hills, tho' it reaches above the former northward. Near the chalk hill, and for some distance southward the same soil prevails, thence it is an unsertile deep sand, and at the boundaries towards Shipborne a deep clay and heavy tillage land; from hence, and its situation, however healthy it may be, it is by no means a pleasant or a profitable one. The parish is very narrow, little more than a mile in width, but from north to south it extends near five miles, from Kingsdown, above the hills, to Shipborne, its southern boundary. At the foot of the chalk hill and north-west boundary of this parish, is the mansion of St. Clere, and not far from it Yaldham; about a mile from which is Ightham-court, and at a little distance further southward is the church and village, situated on the high road from Maidstone to Sevenoke and Westerham, which here crosses this parish by the hamlet of Borough-green, and the manor of Oldborough, or Oldbery, as it is now called, with the hill of that name, belonging to Richard James, esq. of this parish, in this part, and by Ivy-hatch plain, there is much rough uninclosed waste ground, the soil a dreary barren sand, consisting in this and the adjoining parish, of several hundred acres, being in general covered with heath and furze, with some scrubby wood interspersed among them. At the southern extremity of the parish, next to Shipborne, and adjoining to the grounds of Fairlawn, is the seat of the Moat, lowly situated in a deep and miry soil. A fair is kept yearly in this parish, upon the Wednesday in Whitsun week, which is vulgarly called Coxcombe fair.
The Roman military way seems to have crossed this parish from Ofham, and Camps directing its course westward through it. The names of Oldborough, now called Oldberry-hill, and Stone-street in it, are certain marks of its note in former times.
At Oldberry-hill there are the remains of a very considerable intrenchment, which is without doubt of Roman origin. It is situated on the top of the hill, and is now great part of it so overgrown with wood as to make it very difficult to trace the lines of it. It is of an oval form, and by a very accurate measurement, contains within its bounds the space of one hundred and thirty-seven acres. Just on the brow of the hill is an entrance into a cave, which has been long filled up by the sinking of the earth, so as to admit a passage but a very small way into it, but by antient tradition, it went much further in, under the hill.
The whole of it seems to have been antiently fortified according to the nature of the ground, that is, where it is less difficult of access by a much stronger vallum or bank, than where it is more so. In the middle of it there are two fine springs of water. The vast size of this area, which is larger even than that at Keston, in this county, takes away all probability of its having been a Roman station, the largest of which, as Dr. Horsley observes, that he knew of, not being near a tenth part of this in compass. It seems more like one of their camps, and might be one of their castra æstiva, or summer quarters, of which kind they had several in this county. An intrenchment of like form seems to have been at Oldbury hill, in Wiltshire, which the editor of Camden thought might possibly be Danish. There are remains of a Roman camp at Oldbury, in Gloucestershire, where the pass of the Romans over the Severn, mentioned by Antonine, is supposed to have been by Camden. And at Oldbury, near Manchester, in Warwickshire, are such like remains.
IGHTHAM was held in the reign of king Henry III. by Hamo de Crevequer, who died possessed of it in the 47th year of that reign, anno 1262, leaving Robert, his grandson, his heir. By his wife, Maud de Albrincis, or Averenches, he had also four daughters, Agnes, wife of John de Sandwich, Isolda, of Nicholas de Lenham; Elene, of Bertram de Criol; and Isabel, of Henry de Gaunt.
Robert de Crevequer left one son, William, who dying without issue, his inheritance devolved on the children of three of the daughters of Hamon de Crevequer, as above-mentioned, Agnes, Isolda, and Elene, and on the division of their inheritance, Ightham seems to have fallen to the share of Nicholas, son of Bertram de Criol, by his wife Elene, above-mentioned. He was a man greatly in the king's favour, and was constituted by him warden of the five ports, sheriff of Kent, and governor of Rochester castle. By Joane his wife, daughter and sole heir of William de Aubervill, he had Nicholas de Criol, who had summons to parliament, and died in the 31st year of king Edward the 1st.'s reign, possessed of this manor, which his heirs alienated to William de Inge, who held it in the first year of king Edward II. and procured free-warren for his lands in Eyghtham, (fn. 2) and in the 9th year of it, a market here, to be held on a Monday weekly, and one fair on the feast of the apostles, St. Peter and St. Paul. In which last year he was constituted one of the justices of the common pleas. (fn. 3) He bore for his arms, Or, a chevron vert. On his death, in the 15th year of that reign, anno 1286, Joane, his daughter, married to Eudo, or Ivo la Zouch, the son of William, lord Zouch, of Harringworth, by Maud, daughter of John, lord Lovel, of Tichmarsh, became entitled to it.
His descendants continued in the possession of this manor till the reign of king Henry VII. when it was alienated to Sir Robert Read, serjeant at law, afterwards made chief justice of the common pleas, (fn. 4) who died in the next reign of king Henry VIII. leaving by Margaret, one of the daughters and coheirs of John Alphew, esq. of Chidingstone, one son, Edmund, one of the justices of the king's bench, who died before him in 1501, and also four daughters, who became his coheirs, and on the partition of their inheritance this manor was allotted to Sir Thomas Willoughby, (fn. 5) in right of Bridget his wife, the eldest of them. He was in the 29th year of king Henry VIII. promoted to the office of chief justice of the common pleas, and in the 31st year of it, he, among others, procured his lands to be disgavelled by the act then passed for that purpose. He left Robert his son and heir, who alienated this manor to William James, third son of Roger James, of London, who was of Dutch parentage, and coming into England in the latter end of the reign of king Henry VIII. was first as being the descendant of Jacob Van Hastrecht, who was antiently seated at Cleve near Utrecht, called after the Dutch fashion Roger Jacobs, and afterwards Roger James, alias Hastrecht. This Roger James, alias Hastrecht, had several sons and one daughter. Of the former, Roger, the eldest, was of Upminster, in Essex, whose descendants settled at Ryegate, in Surry. William, was of Ightham, as before mentioned; Richard had a son, who was of Creshell, in Essex; John was of Woodnesborough, in this county, and George was of Mallendine, in Cliff, near Rochester. William-James, the third son of Roger as before-mentioned, resided at Ightham-court, as did his son William James, esq. who was a man much trusted in the usurpation under Oliver Cromwell, as one of the committee members for the sequestration of the loyalists estates, during which time he was in five years thrice chosen knight of the shire for Kent. His son Demetrius was knighted, whose son William James held his shrievalty for this county here in 1732. He left by his wife, daughter of Demetrius James, esq. of Essex, two sons, Richard his heir, and Demetrius, late rector of this parish, and a daughter married to Mr. Hindman. He died in 1780, and was succeeded by his eldest son Richard James, esq. now of Ightham-court, and the present possessor of this manor. He is colonel of the West-Kent regiment of militia, and is at present unmarried. The original coat of arms of this family of Haestrecht was, Argent, two bars crenelle, gules, in chief three pheons sable; which arms, without the pheons, are borne by the several branches of James, quartered with, Argent, a chevron between three fer de molins transverse, sable.
ST. CLERES, alias West Aldham, situated in the borough of the latter name, is a manor and seat in the north-west part of this parish, adjoining to Kemsing, which was formerly called by the latter name only, and was possessed by a family of the same denomination, who bore for their arms, Azure, a pile, or.
Sir Thomas de Aldham was owner of it in the reign of king Richard I. and was with that king at the siege of Acon, in Palestine. His descendant Sir Thomas de Aldham, possessed this manor of Aldham in the reign of king Edward II. and dying without male issue, his three daughters became his coheirs, the eldest of whom married Newborough, called in Latin de Novo Burgo, of Dorsetshire; Margery married Martin Peckham, and Isolda was the wife of John St. Clere, and on the division of their inheritance this manor fell to the share of John St. Clere, who possessed it in his wife's right. (fn. 6)
John de St. Clere, written in Latin deeds De Sancta Claro, died possessed of it in the beginning of king Edward III. leaving Isolda his wife surviving, on whose death John St. Clere, their son, succeeded to this manor, which from this family now gained the name of Aldham St. Cleres, and in process of time came to be called by the latter name only, and their descendants continued in possession of this manor till the beginning of the reign of king Henry VII. when it was alienated to Henry Lovel, who left two daughters his coheirs; Agnes, who married John Empson, cousin to Sir Richard Empson, the grand projector; and Elizabeth, married to Anthony Windsor.
John Empson conveyed his moiety of it, in the 8th year of king Henry VIII. to Sir Thomas Bulleyn, afterwards created earl of Wiltshire and Ormond, and father of the lady Anne Bulleyn, wife to Henry VIII. (fn. 7) and Anthony Windsor, in the 10th year of that reign, passed his moiety away by sale to Richard Farmer, who that year purchased of Sir Thomas Bulleyn the other part, and so became possessed of the whole of this manor of St. Cleres. In the 28th year of that reign, Richard Farmer conveyed it to George Multon, esq. of Hadlow who removed hither. He bore for his arms, Or, three bars vert; being the same arms as those borne by Sir John Multon, lord Egremond, whose heir general married the lord Fitzwalter, excepting in the difference of the colours, the latter bearing it, Argent, three bars, gules. His grandson Robert Multon, esq. was of St. Cleres, and lies buried with his ancestors in this church. He alienated this manor and estate, in the reign of Charles I. to Sir John Sidley, knight and baronet, a younger branch of those of Southfleet and Aylesford, in this county, who erected here a mansion for his residence, which is now remaining. He was descended from William Sedley, esq. of Southfleet, who lived in the reign of king Edward VI. and left three sons, of whom John was ancestor of the Sedleys, of Southfleet and Aylesford; Robert was the second son, and Nicholas the third son, by Jane, daughter and coheir of Edward Isaac, esq. of Bekesborne, afterwards married to Sir Henry Palmer, left one son, Isaac Sidley, who was of Great Chart, created a baronet in 1621, and sheriff of this county in the 2d year of Charles I. whose son Sir John Sidley, knight and baronet, purchased St. Cleres, as above-mentioned. (fn. 8) He left two sons, Isaac and John, who both succeeded to the title of baronet. The eldest son, Sir Isaac Sidley, bart. succeeded his father in this estate, and was of St. Cleres, as was his son, Sir Charles Sidley, bart. who dying without issue in 1702, was buried in Ightham church. By his will he devised this manor, with the seat and his estates in this parish, to his uncle John, who succeeded him in the title of baronet, for his life, with remainder to George Sedley, his eldest son, in tale male. But Sir Charles having been for some time before his death, and at the time of his making his will of weak understanding, and under undue influence, Sir John Sedley contested the validity of it, and it was set aside by the sentence in the prerogative court of Canterbury.
Soon after which Sir John, and his son George Sedley above-mentioned, entered into an agreement, by which Sir John Sedley waved his right as heir at law, and his further right to contest the will. In consequence of which an act of parliament was obtained for the settling in trustees the manor of West Aldham, alias St. Cleres, with its appurtenances, and the capital messuage called St. Cleres, in Ightham, and other messuages and lands in Ightham, Wrotham, Kemsing, Seal, &c. that they might be sold for the purposes of the agreement, which the whole of them were soon afterwards to William Evelyn, esq. the fifth son of George Evelyn, esq. of Nutfield, in Surry, who afterwards resided here, and in 1723 was sheriff of this county.
He married first the daughter and heir of William Glanvill, esq. and in the 5th year of king George I. obtained an act of parliament to use the surname and arms of Glanvill only, the latter being Argent, a chief indented azure, pursuant to the will of William Glanvill, esq. above-mentioned. By her he had an only daughter Frances, married to the hon. Edward Boscawen, next brother to Hugh, viscount Falmouth, and admiral of the British fleet. His second wife was daughter of Jones Raymond, esq. who died in 1761, by whom he had William Glanvill Evelyn, esq. who on his father's decease in 1766, succeeded to St. Cleres and the rest of his estates in this county. In 1757 he kept his shrievalty at St. Cleres, where he resides at present, and is one of the representatives in parliament for Hythe, in this county.
He married about the year 1760, Susan, one of the two daughters and coheirs of Thomas Borrett, esq. of Shoreham, late prothonotary of the court of common pleas, by whom he had a son, William Evelyn, esq. who died in 1788 at Blandford-lodge, near Woodstock, by a fall from his horse, æct. 21, and unmarried; and a daughter Frances, afterwards his sole heir, married in 1782 to Alexander Hume, esq. of Hendley, in Surry, brother of Sir Abraham Hume, who in 1797 had the royal licence to take and use the name and arms of Evelyn only, and he now resides at St. Clere.
THE MOAT is another borough in this parish, in which is the manor and seat of that name, lying at the southern extremity of it next to Shipborne, which in the reign of king Henry II. was in the possession of Ivo de Haut, and his descendant, Sir Henry de Haut, died possessed of it in the 44th year of Edward III. as appears by the escheat roll of that year. His son, Sir Edmund de Haut, died in his life-time, so that his grandson, Nicholas Haut, became his heir, and succeeded him in the possession of this estate. (fn. 9)
He was sheriff in the 19th year of king Richard II. and kept his shrievalty at Wadenhall, in this county. He left two sons, William, who was of Bishopsborne; and Richard Haut, who succeeded him in this estate, and was sheriff in the 18th and 22d years of king Edward IV. keeping both his shrievalties at this seat of themoat; but having engaged, with several others of the gentry of this county, with the duke of Buckingham, in favor of the Earl of Richmond, he was beheaded at Pontefract, anno 1 Richard III. and afterwards attainted in the 3d year of that reign, and his estates confiscated. (fn. 10) Quickly after which, this manor and seat were granted by that king to Robert Brakenbury, lieutenant of the tower of London, and that year sheriff of this county. He kept possession of the Moat but a small time, for he lost his life with king Richard in the fatal battle of Bosworth, fought that year on August 22, and on the Earl of Richmond's attaining the crown was attainted by an act then passed for the purpose, and though his two daughters were restored in blood by another act four years afterwards, yet the Moat was immediately restored to the heirs of its former owner Richard Haut, whose attainder was likewise reversed, and in their descendants it remained till the latter end of the reign of king Henry VII. when it appears by an old court roll to have been in the possession of Sir Richard Clement, who kept his shrievalty at the Moat in the 23d year of king Henry VIII and bore for his arms, A bend nebulee, in chief three fleurs de lis within a border, gobinated. He died without any legitimate issue, and was buried in the chancel of this church. Upon which his brother, John Clement, and his sister, married to Sir Edward Palmer, of Angmering, in Sussex, became his coheirs, but the former succeeded to the entire fee of this estate.
John Clement died without male issue, leaving an only daughter and heir Anne, who carried the Moat in marriage to Hugh Pakenham, and he, in the reign of king Edward VI. joining with Sir William Sydney, who had married Anne, his only daughter and heir passed it away to Sir John Allen, who had been of the privy council to king Henry VIII. and lord mayor of London in the year 1526 and 1536. He was of the company of mercers, a man of liberal charity. He gave to the city of London a rich collar of gold, to be worn by the succeeding lord-mayors: also five hundred marcs as a stock for sea coal, and the rents of those lands which he had purchased of the king, to the poor of London for ever; and during his life he gave bountifully to the hospitals, prisons, &c. of that city. He built the mercers chapel in Cheapside, in which his body was buried, which was afterwards moved into the body of the hospital church of St. Thomas, of Acon, and the chapel made into shops by the mercer's company. He bore for his arms, In three roundlets, as many talbots passant, on a chief a lion passant guardant between two anchors. (fn. 11)
He left a son and heir Sir Christopher Allen, whose son and heir, Charles Allen, esq. succeeded his father in this estate, and resided at the Moat, which he afterwards sold at the latter end of the reign of queen Elizabeth to Sir William Selby, younger brother of Sir John Selby, of Branxton, in Northumberland. He resided here in the latter part of his life, and died greatly advanced in years in 1611, unmarried, and was buried in this church, bearing for his arms, Barry of twelve pieces, or and azure. He by his will gave this estate to his nephew, Sir William Selby, who resided here, and died likewise without issue, and by his will, for the sake of the name gave the Moat to Mr. George Selby, of London, who afterwards resided here, and was sheriff in the 24th year of king Charles I. and bore for his arms, Barry of eight pieces, or and sable. He died in 1667, leaving several sons and daughters. Of whom William Selby, esq. the eldest son, succeeded to this estate, and was of the Moat. He married Susan, daughter of Sir John Rainey, bart. of Wrotham, by whom he had several children, of whom John Selby, esq. the eldest son, was of the Moat, and by Mary his wife, one of the three daughters and coheirs of Thomas Gifford, esq. left two sons, William, who succeeded him in this seat and estate at Ightham, and John Selby, esq. who was of Pennis, in Fawkham, and died unmarried.
William Selby resided at the Moat, of which he died possessed in 1773, leaving his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Mr. Burroughs, surviving, who afterwards possessed this seat and resided here. She died in 1788, and her only son, William Selby, esq. of Pennis, having deceased in 1777, and his only daughter and heir likewise, Elizabeth Borough Selby, by Elizabeth his wife, one of the daughters of John Weston, esq. of Cranbrook, under age, and unmarried in 1781. This seat, with her other estates in this county, devolved to John Brown, esq. who has since taken the name of Selby, and now resides at the Moat, of which he is the present possessor.
The park, called Ightham park, has been already mentioned under the parish of Wrotham, to which the reader is referred.
It appears by the visitation of 1619, that there was a branch of the Suliards, of Brasted, then residing in this parish.
John Gull resided in this parish in the reign of king Henry VIII. and died here in 1547.
Charities.
HENRY PEARCE gave by will in 1545, to be distributed to the poor in bread yearly the annual sum of 6s. 8d. charged on land now vested in Cozens, and she gave besides to be distributed to the poor in bread at Easter yearly, 40l. now of the annual produce of 2l. and for the providing of books for poor children to learn the catechism, the sum of 10l. now of the annual produce of 10s.
HENRY FAIRBRASSE gave by will in 1601, to be distributed in like manner, the annual sum of 1l. to be paid out of land now vested in William Hacket.
WILLIAM JAMES, ESQ. gave by will in 1627, to be distributed in bread to the poor every Sunday, the annual sum of 2l. 12s. to be paid out of lands now vested in Rich. James, esq.
GEORGE PETLEY gave by will in 1705, to be distributed in like manner, every Sunday, 2s. the annual sum of 5l. 4s. to be paid out of land vested in William Evelyn, esq.
ELIZABETH JAMES, gave by will in 1720, for the education of poor children, the annual sum of 5l. to be paid out of land now vested in Elizabeth Solley.
IGHTHAM is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Rochester, and being a peculiar of the archbishop, is as such in the deanry of Shoreham.
¶The church is dedicated to St. Peter. Under an arch on the north side of it, there is a tomb of free stone, having on it a very antient figure at full length of a man in armour, ornamented with a rich belt, sword and dagger, his head resting on two cushions, and a lion at his feet, over his whole breast are his arms, viz. A lion rampant, ermine, double queued. This is by most supposed to be the tomb of Sir Thomas Cawne, who married Lora, daughter and heir of Sir Thomas Morant. He was originally extracted from Staffordshire: he probably died without issue, and his widow remarried with James Peckham, esq. of Yaldham. His arms, impaling those of Morant, were in one of the chancel windows of this church.
The rectory is valued in the king's books at 15l. 16s. 8d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 11s. 8d. It is now of the yearly value of about 200l.
The patronage of this rectory seems to have been always accounted an appendage to the manor of Ightham, as such it is now the property of Richard James, esq. of Ightham-court.
A long planned visit to Leeds to record the church.
Leeds is just off the M20, and nearby to Leeds Castle, which means the roads are often busy. St Nicholas is on the main road leading up the down, but before the road gets narrow as it winds between the timber framed houses. Thankfully there is good parking next door, so we were able to get off the main road and out of the traffic, as unbeknown to us, there was a classical music show on that night, and most of Kent were going and in the process of arriving.
St Nicholas is a grand church, the chancel and two side chapels are partially hidden behind a very fine Rood Screen, which at first didn't look original, but actually is.
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One of the largest twelfth-century towers in Kent. The arch between tower and nave is of three very plain orders with no hint of the usual zigzag moulding of the period, and is so large that a meeting room has recently been built into it. The nave has three bay aisles and short chapels to north and south of the chancel. The outstanding rood screen was partially reconstructed in 1892, and runs the full width of nave and aisles - with the staircase doorways in the south aisle. That the chancel was rebuilt in the sixteenth century may be seen by the plain sedilia through which is cut one of two hagioscopes from chapels to chancel. The north chapel contains some good seventeenth- and eighteenth-century tablets and monuments. The stained glass shows some excellent examples of the work of Heaton, Butler and Bayne (south aisle) whilst there is an uncharacteristically poor example of the work of C.E. Kempe & Co. Ltd. in the north aisle. The church has recently been reordered to provide a spacious, light and manageable interior with excellent lighting and a welcoming atmosphere without damaging the character of the building.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Leeds
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LEEDS
IS the next parish southward from Hollingborne. Kilburne says, that one Ledian, a chief counsellor to king Ethelbert II. who began his reign in 978, raised a fortress here, which was called in Latin, from him, Ledani Castrum, and in process of time in English, LEEDS. This castle was afterwards demolished by the Danes, and continued in that situation till the time of the Norman conquest.
THE PRESENT CASTLE is situated at the southeast boundary of this parish, adjoining to Bromfield, which includes a part of the castle itself. It is situated in the midst of the park, an ample description of it the reader will find hereafter. The Lenham rivulet takes its course through the park, and having supplied the moat, in which the castle stands, and the several waters in the grounds there, and having received into it the several small streamlets from Hollingborne, and one from the opposite side, which comes from Leeds abbey, it flows on, and at a small distance from Caring street, in this parish, adjoining to Bersted, the principal estate of which name there belongs to the Drapers company, it turns a mill, and then goes on to Maidstone, where it joins the river Medway. The high road from Ashford and Lenham runs close by the outside of the pales of Leeds park, at the northern boundary of the parish next to Hollingborne, and thence goes on towards Bersted and Maidstone, from which the park is distant a little more than five miles; here the soil is a deep sand, but near the river it changes to a black moorish earth. Southward from the castle the ground rises, at about three quarters of a mile south-west from it is Leeds abbey, the front of which is a handsome well-looking building, of the time of queen Elizabeth. It is not unpleasantly situated on a gentle eminence, and is well watered by a small stream which rises just above it, and here turns a mill. It is well cloathed with wood at the back part of it, to which the ground still keeps rising; adjoining to the abbey grounds westward is Leeds-street, a long straggling row of houses, near a mile in length, having the church at the south end of it; here the soil becomes a red unfertile earth much mixed with slints, which continues till it joins to Langley and Otham.
LEEDS was part of those possessions given by William the Conqueror to his half-brother Odo, bishop of Baieux; accordingly it is thus entered, under the general title of that prelate's lands, in the survey of Domesday, taken in the year 1080.
Adelold holds of the bishop (of Baieux) Esiedes. It was taxed at three sulings. The arable land is twelve carucates. In demesne there are two carucates, and twenty-eight villeins, with eight borderers, having seven carucates. There is a church, and eighteen servants. There are two arpends of vineyard, and eight acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of twenty bogs, and five mills of the villeins. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth sixteen pounds, the like when be received it, now twenty pounds, and yet it pays twentyfive pounds. Earl Leuuin held it.
Of this manor the abbot of St. Augustine has half a suling, which is worth ten shillings, in exchange of the park of the bishop of Baieux. The earl of Ewe has four denns of this manor, which are worth twenty shillings.
The mention of the two arpends of vineyard in the above survey, is another instance of there having been such in this county in early times, some further observations of which the reader will find in the description of the parish of Chart Sutton, not far distant, and he will likewise observe, that at the above time the bishop of Baieux had a park here, which he acquired by exchange with the abbot of St. Augustine, who must therefore have had possessions here before that time.
On the bishop of Baieux's disgrace, about four years after the taking of the above-mentioned survey, this estate, among the rest of his possessions, became consiscated to the crown.
After which it was granted by king William to the eminent family of Crevequer, called in antient charters Creveceur, and in Latin, De Crepito Corde, who at first made Chatham in this county their seat, or caput baroniæ, i. e. the principal manor of their barony, for some time, until they removed hither, being before frequently written Domini de Cetham.
Robert, son of Hamon de Crevequer, who had probably a grant of Leeds from the Conqueror, appears to have held it of the king, as of his castle of Dover, in capite by barony, their barony, which consisted of five knight's sees, being stiled Baronia de Crevequer . (fn. 1) He erected the castle here, to which he asterwards removed the capital seat of his barony. This castle being environed with water, was frequently mentioned in antient writings by the name of Le Mote. In the north-west part of it he built a chapel, in which he placed three canons, which on his foundation of the priory of Leeds, in the 19th year of king Henry I. he removed thither.
His descendant, Hamon de Crevequer, lived in the reign of king Henry III. in the 19th year of which, he was joined with Walterand Teutonicus, or Teys, in the wardenship of the five ports, and the next year had possession granted to him of the lands of William de Albrincis or Averenches, whose daughter and heir Maud he had married. He died in the 47th year of king Henry III. possessed of the manor of Ledes, held of the king in capite, as belonging to his barony of Chatham; upon which Robert, his grandson, viz. son of Hamon his son, who died in his life-time, succeeded him as his heir, and in the 52d year of that reign, exchanged the manor of Ledes, with its appurtenances, together with a moiety of all his fees, with Roger de Leyburne, for the manors of Trottesclyve and Flete. He lest William de Leyburne, his son and heir, who in the 2d year of king Edward I. had possession granted to him of the manor of Ledes, as well as of the rest of his inheritance, of which Eleanor, countess of Winchester, his father's widow, was not endowed. (fn. 2)
His son, William de Leyborne, observing that the king looked on the strength of this fortress with a jealous eye, in the beginning of king Edward Ist.'s reign reinstated the crown in the possession of both the manor and castle; and the king having, in his 27th year married Margaret, sister of Philip, king of France, he settled them, being then of the clear yearly value of 21l. 6s. 8d. among other premises, as part of her dower. She survived the king her husband, who died in 1307, and in the 5th year of the next reign of king Edward II. by the king's recommendation, appointed Bartholomew de Badlesmere, a nobleman of great power and eminence, and much in that prince's favor, governor of this castle. (fn. 3) She died possessed of them in the 10th year of that reign; on which they came once more into the hands of the crown, and in the beginning of the next year the king appointed Bartholomew de Badlesmere, above-mentioned, governor of this castle, as well as of that of Bristol. In the 11th year of that reign, the king granted to him in see, this manor and castle, and the advowson of the priory of Ledes, in exchange for the manor of Addresley, in Shropshire. Being possessed of great possessions, especially in this county, he was usually stiled, the rich lord Badlesmere of Ledes. Being pussed up through ambition and his great wealth, he forgot his allegiance, and associated himself with the earl of Lancaster, and the discontented barons; which the king being well informed of, resolved, if possible, to gain possession of this strong fortress of Ledes: to effect which, under pretence of the queen's going on a pilgrimage to Canterbury, she set forward for that city with a large train of attendants, and, with a secret intention of surprising this castle, sent her marshal with others of her servants, to prepare lodging for her and her suit in it. The lord Badlesmere's family, that is, his wife, son, and four daughters, were at that time in it, together with all his treasure, deposited there for safety, under the care of Thomas Colepeper, the castellan, who refused the queen's servants admittance, and on her coming up, peremptorily persisted in denying her or any one entrance, without letters from his lord. The queen, upon this, made some attempt to gain admittance by force, and a skirmish ensued, in which one or more of her attendants were slain, but being repulsed, she was obliged to relinquish her design, and to retire for a lodging elsewhere.
The king, chagrined at the failure of his scheme, and highly resenting the indignity offered to the queen, sent a force under the earls of Pembroke and Richmond, to besiege the castle; (fn. 4) and those within it finding no hopes of relief, for though the lord Badlesmere had induced the barons to endeavours to raise the siege, yet they never advanced nearer than Kingston, yielded it up. Upon which, the lady Badlesmere and her children were sent prisoners to the tower of London, Thomas Colepeper, the castellan, was hung up, and the king took possession of the castle, as well as of all the lord Badlesmere's goods and treasures in it. But by others, Thomas de Aldone is said to have been castellan at this time, and that the castle being taken, he, with the lord Badlesmere's wife, his only son Giles, his daughters, Sir Bartholomew de Burgershe, and his wife, were sent to the tower of London by the king's order; and that afterwards, he caused Walter Colepeper, bailiff of the Seven Hundreds, to be drawn in a pitiable manner at the tails of horses, and to be hung just by this castle; on which Thomas Colepeper, and others, who were with him in Tunbridge castle, hearing of the king's approach, sled to the barons.
After which the lord Badlesmere, being taken prisoner in Yorkshire, was sent to Canterbury, and there drawn and hanged at the gallows of Blean, and his head being cut off, was set on a pole on Burgate, in that city. Upon which the manor and castle of Leeds, became part of the royal revenue and the castle remained in a most ruinous condition till the year 1359, anno 34 Edward III. in which year that munisicent prelate, William of Wickham, was constituted by the king, chief warden and surveyor of his castle of Ledes, among others, (fn. 5) having power to appoint all workmen, to provide materials, and to order every thing with regard to building and repairs; and in those manors to hold leets and other courts of trespass and misdemeanors, and to enquire of the king's liberties and rights; and from his attention to the re-edisying and rebuilding the rest of them, there is little doubt but he restored this of Leeds to a very superior state to whatever it had been before, insomuch, that it induced king Richard to visit it several times, particularly in his 19th year, in which several of his instruments were dated at his castle of Ledes; and it appears to have been at that time accounted a fortress of some strength, for in the beginning of the next reign, that unfortunate prince was, by order of king Henry IV. sent prisoner to this castle; and that king himself resided here part of the month of April in his 2d year.
After which, archbishop Arundel, whose mind was by no means inferior to his high birth, procured a grant of this castle, where he frequently resided and kept his court, whilst the process against the lord Cobham was carrying forward, and some of his instruments were dated from his castle of Ledes in the year 1413, being the year in which he died. On his death it reverted again to the crown, and became accounted as one of the king's houses, many of the principal gentry of the county being instrusted with the custody of it:
In the 7th year of king Henry V. Joane of Navarre, the second queen of the late king Henry IV. being accused of conspiring against the life of the king, her son-in-law, was committed to Leeds-castle, there to remain during the king's pleasure; and being afterwards ordered into Sir John Pelham's custody, he removed her to the castle of Pevensey, in Sussex.
In the 18th year of king Henry VI. archbishop Chichele sat at the king's castle of Leeds, in the process against Eleanor, duchess of Gloucester, for forcery and witchcrast.
King Edward IV. in his 11th year, made Ralph St. Leger, esq. of Ulcomb, who had served the office of sheriff of this county three years before, constable of this castle for life, and annexed one of the parks as a farther emolument to that office. He died that year, and was buried with his ancestors at Ulcomb.
Sir Thomas Bourchier resided at Leeds castle in the 1st year of king Richard III. in which year he had commission, among others of the principal gentry of this county, to receive the oaths of allegiance to king Richard, of the inhabitants of the several parts of Kent therein mentioned; in which year, the king confirmed the liberties of Leeds priory, in recompence of twentyfour acres of land in Bromfield, granted for the enlargement of his park of Ledes.
In the 4th year of king Henry VIII. Henry Guildford, esq. had a grant of the office of constable of Leeds castle, and of the parkership of it; and in the 12th year of that reign, he had a grant of the custody of the manor of Leeds, with sundry perquisities, for forty years. He died in the 23d year of that reign, having re-edisied great part of the castle, at the king's no small charge.
But the fee simple of the manor and castle of Leeds remained in the hands of the crown, till Edward VI. in his 6th year, granted them, with their appurtenances in the parishes of Leeds, Langley, and Sutton, to Sir Anthony St. Leger, lord deputy of Ireland, to hold in capite by knight's service.
His son, Sir Warham St. Leger, succeeded him in this manor and castle, and was afterwards chief governor of Munster, in Ireland, in which province he was unfortunately slain in 1599, (fn. 6) but before his death he alienated this manor and castle to Sir Richard Smyth, fourth son of Thomas Smyth, esq. of Westenhanger, commonly called Customer Smyth.
Sir Richard Smyth resided at Leeds castle, of which he died possessed in 1628, and was buried in Ashford church, where there is a costly monument erected to his memory.
Sir John Smith, his only son, succeeded his father, and resided at Leeds castle, and dying s. p. in 1632, was buried in this church; upon which his two sisters, Alice, wife of Sir Timothy Thornhill, and Mary, of Maurice Barrow, esq. became his coheirs, and entitled their respective husbands to the property of this manor and castle, which they afterwards joined in the sale of to Sir T. Culpeper, of Hollingborne, who settled this estate, after his purchase of it, on his eldest son Cheney Culpeper, remainder to his two other sons, Francis and Thomas. Cheney Culpeper, esq. resided at Leedscastle for some time, till at length persuading his brother Sir Thomas Culpeper, of Hollingborne, (then his only surviving brother, Francis being dead. s. p.) to cut off the entail of this estate, he alienated it to his cousin Sir John Colepeper, lord Colepeper, only son of Sir John Culpeper, of Wigsell, in Sussex, whose younger brother Francis was of Greenway-court, in Hollingborne, and was father of Sir Thomas Culpeper, the purchaser of this estate as before-mentioned.
Sir John Colepeper represented this county in parliament in the 16th year of king Charles I. and being a person, who by his abilities had raised himself much in the king's favor, was made of his privy council, and chancellor of the exchequer, afterwards master of the rolls, and governor of the Isle of Wight. During the troubles of that monarch, he continued stedfast to the royal cause, and as a reward for his services, was in 1644 created lord Colepeper, baron of Thoresway, in Lincolnshire.
After the king's death he continued abroad with king Charles II. in his exile. During his absence, Leeds-castle seems to have been in the possession of the usurping powers, and to have been made use of by them, for the assembling of their committee men and sequestrators, and for a receptacle to imprison the ejected ministers, for in 1652, all his estates had been declared by parliament forfeited, for treason against the state. He died in 1660, a few weeks only after the restoration, and was buried at Hollingborne. He bore for his arms, Argent, a bend ingrailed gules, the antient bearing of this family; he left by his second wife Judith, daughter of Sir Thomas Culpeper, of Hollingborne, several children, of whom Thomas was his successor in title and estates, and died without male issue as will be mentioned hereafter, John succeeded his brother in the title, and died in 1719 s. p. and Cheney succeeded his brother in the title, and died at his residence of Hoston St. John, in 1725, s. p. likewise, by which the title became extinct; they all, with the rest of the branch of the family, lie buried at Hollingborne. Thomas, lord Colepeper, the eldest son, succeeded his father in title, and in this manor and castle, where he resided, and having married Margaret, daughter of Signior Jean de Hesse, of a noble family in Germany, he left by her a sole daughter and heir Catherine, who intitled her husband Thomas, lord Fairfax, of Cameron, in Scotland, to this manor and castle, with his other estates in this neighbourhood.
The family of Fairfax appear by old evidences in the hands of the family to have been in possession of lands in Yorkshire near six hundred years ago. Richard Fairfax was possessed of lands in that county in the reign of king John, whose grandson William Fairfax in the time of king Henry III. purchased the manor of Walton, in the West Riding, where he and his successors resided for many generations afterwards, and from whom descended the Fairfax's, of Walton and Gilling, in Yorkshire; of whom, Sir Thomas Fairfax, of Gilling, was created viscount Fairfax, of the kingdom of Ireland, which title became extinct in 1772; and from a younger branch of them descended Sir Thomas Fairfax, of Denton, who lived in queen Elizabeth's reign, and changed the original field of his coat armour from argent to or, bearing for his arms, Or, 3 bars gemelles, gules, surmounted of a lion rampant, sable, crown'd, of the first, and was father of Sir. T. Fairfax, who was, for his services to James and Charles I. created in 1627 lord Fairfax, baron of Cameron, in Scotland. He died in 1640, having had ten sons and two daughters; of whom, Ferdinando was his successor; Henry was rector of Bolton Percy, and had two sons, Henry, who became lord Fairfax, and Bryan, who was ancestor of Bryan Fairfax, late commissioner of the customs; and colonel Charles Fairfax, of Menston, was the noted antiquary, whose issue settled there.
Ferdinando, the second lord Fairfax, in the civil wars of king Charles I. was made general of the parliamentary forces, and died at York in 1646. His son, Sir Thomas Fairfax, succeeded him as lord Fairfax, and in all his posts under the parliament, and was that famous general so noted in English history during the civil wars, being made commander in chief of all the parliamentary forces; but at last he grew so weary of the distress and confusion which his former actions had brought upon his unhappy country, that he heartily concurred in the restoration of king Charles II. After which he retired to his seat at Bilborough, in Yorkshire, where he died in 1671, and was buried there, leaving by Anne, daughter and coheir of Horatio, lord Vere of Tilbury, a truly loyal and virtuous lady, an only daughter; upon which the title devolved to Henry Fairfax, esq. of Oglesthorpe, in Yorkshire, his first cousin, eldest son of Henry, rector of Bolton Percy, the second son of Thomas, the first lord Fairfax. Henry, lord Fairfax, died in 1680, and was succeeded by his eldest son Thomas, fifth lord Fairfax, who was bred to a military life, and rose to the rank of a brigadier-general. He represented Yorkshire in several parliaments and marrying Catherine, daughter and heir of Thomas, lord Colepeper, possessed, in her right this manor and castle, and other large possessions, as before-mentioned. (fn. 7)
He died possessed of them in 1710, leaving three sons and four daughters, Thomas, who succeeded him as lord Fairfax; Henry Culpeper, who died unmarried, in 1734; and Robert, of whom hereafter. Of the daughters, Margaret married David Wilkins, D. D. and prebendary of Canterbury, and Francis married Denny Martin, esq. Thomas, lord Fairfax, the son, resided at Leeds-castle till his quitting England, to reside on his great possessions in Virginia, where he continued to the time of his death. On his departure from England, he gave up the possession of this manor and castle, with his other estates in this neighbourhood, to his only surviving brother, the hon. Robert Fairfax, who afterwards resided at Leeds-castle, and on his brother's death unmarried, in 1782, succeeded to the title of lord Fairfax. He was at first bred to a military life, but becoming possessed of Leeds castle, he retired there, and afterwards twice served in parliament for the town of Maidstoue, as he did afterwards in two successive parliaments for this county. He was twice married; first to Marsha, daughter and coheir of Anthony Collins, esq. of Baddow, in Essex, by whom he had one son, who died an instant; and, secondly, to one of the daughters of Thomas Best, esq. of Chatham, who died s. p. in 1750. Lord Fairfax dying s. p. in 1793, this castle and manor, with the rest of his estates in this county, came to his nephew the Rev. Denny Martin, the eldest son of his sister Frances, by Denny Martin, esq. of Loose, who had before his uncle's death been created D. D. and had, with the royal licence, assumed the name and arms of Fairfax. Dr. Fairfax is the present possessor of this manor and castle, and resides here, being at present unmarried.
A court leet and court baron is held for the manor of Leeds, at which three borsholders are appointed. It is divided into six divisions, or yokes as they are called, viz. Church-yoke, Ferinland-yoke, Mill-yoke, Russerken-yoke, Stockwell-yoke, and Lees-yoke.
I am so thrilled to be able to share this amazing dog coat made by Melodee for a special dog named Elvis. He looks like a king adorned in his beautiful jacket. Great job Melodee and thank you so much for sharing. Fabric designed by Blue Velvet available here www.spoonflower.com/en/fabric/4696580-hound-dog-by-blueve...
Thursday morning, and all I had to do was get back to Kent. Hopefully before five so I could hand the hire car back, but getting back safe and sound would do, really.
I woke at six so I could be dressed for breakfast at half six when it started, and as usual when in a hotel, I had fruit followed by sausage and bacon sarnies. And lots of coffee.
Outside it had snowed. OK, it might only be an inch of the stuff, but that's more than an inch needed to cause chaos on the roads.
Back to the room to pack, one last look round and back to reception to check out, then out into the dawn to find that about a quarter of the cars were having snow and ice cleared off them before being able to be driven.
I joined them, scraping the soft snow then the ice. Bracing stuff at seven in the morning.
Now able to see out, I inched out of the car park and out to the exit and onto the untreated roads.
It was a picturesque scene, but not one I wanted to stop to snap. My first road south had only been gritted on one side, thankfully the side I was travelling down, but was still just compacted snow.
After negotiating two roundabouts, I was on the on ramp to the M6, and a 60 mile or so drive south. The motorway was clear of snow, but huge amounts of spray was thrown up, and the traffic was only doing 45mph, or the inside lane was, and that was quite fast and safe enough for me.
More snow fell as I neared Stoke, just to add to the danger of the journey, and then the rising sun glinted off the road, something which I had most of the drive home.
I went down the toll road, it costs eight quid, but is quick and easy. And safe too with so little traffic on it. I think for the first time, I didn't stop at the services, as it was only about half nine, and only three hours since breakfast.
And by the time I was on the old M6, there was just about no snow on the ground, and the road was beginning to dry out.
My phone played the tunes from my apple music store. Loudly. So the miles slipped by.
After posting some shots from Fotheringhay online, a friend, Simon, suggested others nearby that were worth a visit, and I also realised that I hadn't taken wide angle shots looking east and west, so I could drop in there, then go to the others suggested.
And stopping here was about the half way point in the journey so was a good break in the drive, and by then the clouds had thinned and a weak sin shone down.
Fotheringhay is as wonderful as always, it really is a fine church, easy to stop there first, where I had it to myself, and this time even climbed into the richly decorated pulpit to snap the details.
A short drive away was Apethorpe, where there was no monkey business. The village was built of all the same buttery yellow sandstone, looking fine in the weak sunshine.
Churches in this part of Northamptonshire are always open, Simon said.
Not at Apethorpe. So I made do with snapping the church and the village stocks and whipping post opposite.
A short drive up the hill was King's Cliffe. Another buttery yellow village and a fine church, which I guessed would be open.
Though it took some finding, as driving up the narrow high street I failed to find the church. I checked the sat nav and I had driven right past it, but being down a short lane it was partially hidden behind a row of houses.
The church was open, and was surrounded by hundreds of fine stone gravestones, some of designs I have not seen before, but it was the huge numbers of them that was impressive.
Inside the church was fine, if cold. I record what I could, but my compact camera's batter had died the day before, and I had no charger, so just with the nifty fifty and the wide angle, still did a good job of recording it.
There was time for one more church. Just.
For those of us who remember the seventies, Warmington means Dad's Army, or rather Warmington on Sea did. THat there is a real Warmington was a surprise to me, and it lay just a couple of miles the other side of Fotheringhay.
The church is large, mostly Victorian after it fell out of use and became derelict, if the leaflet I read inside was accurate. But the renovation was excellent, none more so than the wooden vaulted roof with bosses dating to either the 15th or 16th centuries.
Another stunning item was the pulpit, which looks as though it is decorated with panels taken from the Rood Screen. Very effective.
Back to the car, I program the sat nav for home, and set off back to Fotheringhay and the A14 beyond.
No messing around now, just press on trying to make good time so to be home before dark, and time to go home, drop my bags, feed the cats before returning the car.
No real pleasure, but I made good time, despite encountering several bad drivers, who were clearly out only to ruin my mood.
Even the M25 was clear, I raced to the bridge, over the river and into Kent.
Nearly home.
I drive back down the A2, stopping at Medway services for a sandwich and a huge coffee on the company's credit card.
And that was that, just a blast down to Faversham, round onto the A2 and past Canterbury and to home, getting back at just after three, time to fill up the bird feeders, feed the cats, unpack and have a brew before going out at just gone four to return the car.
Jools would rescue me from the White Horse on her way home, so after being told the car was fine, walked to the pub and ordered two pints of Harvey's Best.
There was a guy from Essex and his American girlfriend, who were asking about all sorts of questions about Dover's history, and I was the right person to answer them.
I was told by a guide from the Castle I did a good job.
Yay me.
Jools arrived, so I went out and she took me home. Where the cats insisted they had not been fed.
Lies, all lies.
Dinner was teriyaki coated salmon, roasted sprouts and back, defrosted from before Christmas, and noodles.
Yummy.
Not much else to tell, just lighting the fire, so Scully and I would be toast warm watch the exciting Citeh v Spurs game, where Spurs were very Spursy indeed.
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I was exploring the churches of north-east Northamptonshire, and on my way back to Peterborough station how could I resist a visit to lovely Warmington church? The village is rather a suburban one but, the solid little entirely Early English church sits at its heart. Entirely a Huntingdonshire church in style, with a stubby spire and big dormer-style lucarnes.
I had previously visited almost exactly a year ago, and as before I left my bike in the Early English porch, which is vaulted in blocks of stone, handsome yet familiar. I remembered in 2015 stepping into what turned out to be then the most interesting interior of the day, although rather overshadowed by Apethorpe and Blatherwycke on my current trip. The most striking feature, and rather a surprising one, is that the roof of the nave is vaulted in wood. This was done in the 13th Century, and the bosses survive from that time - even more surprising, they all depict green men, nine of them. Why was this not done elsewhere?
The rood screen is one of the best in the area, and the medieval pulpit appears to be constructed of rood screen panels (can that be right? Did they come from the rood loft? Surely it is pre-Reformation, in which case perhaps they came from somewhere else). Lots to think about. A good church, it would be considered so in any county.
So I got back on my bike and headed on towards Peterborough, but not without a memory of the last time I had done the same thing, because in 2015, as I was about to leave the church, three young women came in. They were walking the Nene Way, and were attired as you might expect attractive young women to be on such a sunny day. I didn't want them to be made nervous by the presence of a middle-aged man with a camera, so I nodded a greeting as I left, but in the event they engaged me in conversation, asking me where I'd come from, telling me what they were doing, where they were going, and so on.
In the end I had to make my apologies and leave as they didn't seem to want to let me go, not an experience I have very often these days, I can tell you. It rather put me in mind of the Sirens episode in the Odyssey.
And so I headed on, wary now of any wandering rocks and one-eyed giants.
www.flickr.com/photos/norfolkodyssey/27033140016/in/photo...
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St Michael’s Parish Church, Warmington
Warmington was already an established farming community when its assets were recorded in Domesday Book. Shortly afterwards, its Norman owner, the Earl of Warwick, gave the manor of Warmington to the Benedictine Abbey which his father had endowed in Normandy, St.Peter’s at Preaux. Warmington was to remain in monastic hands, with one short break, for about 450 years. Monks were sent over from Preaux who built a small Priory. Its foundations were discovered when houses were built in Court Close in the 1950s. The Priory has disappeared, but the splendid church built under the monks’ supervision, mainly in the early medieval period, remains.
The church stands high above the village, close to the summit of Warmington Hill. Tradition tells us that the stone for building it was dug close by, in the area known as Catpits, or Churchpits. The stone for the tower was brought from a field known as Turpits, or Towerpits, a quarter of a mile away along the Hornton road. The churchyard is entered either by the lych-gate from the main road, or from the village by two long flights of steps. A diagonal line of pine trees marks the former boundary of the churchyard which was extended in the 1850s. In the older part, and especially near the south porch, are gravestones of exceptionally fine workmanship dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. About eighty of these are ‘listed’ by the Department of the Environment. All the inscribed memorials were recorded in 1981.
An admirable and detailed architectural description of the church is available in the Victoria County History. These notes are intended rather as a ‘layman’s conducted tour’. The church was purpose-built and used for the first half of its long life for forms of worship very different from our own. It was also the village meeting place for many secular purposes The church comprises north and south porches, nave with north and south aisles, a west tower and chancel with two-storey vestry adjoining.
As you enter the church by the south porch you walk forward into the nave. This area, with the first three pillars on each side, is where Warmington people have met and worshipped since the twelfth century. The area was extended by the addition of the aisles a century later. Today the overwhelming impression is a sense of simplicity, of space and of strength. Imagine the scene in the medieval period: no pews but white-washed walls covered with paintings, images of the saints in stone, on wood and painted cloths, the whole lit by the sunlight through stained glass and by candles and lamps burning before every image. On Sundays before Mass, at special festivals and for some fifty saints’ days in the year, a procession would form, with banners and hand bells, winding its way around the church and churchyard, and stopping at various points for particular acts of worship. The north and west doors, so rarely used today, had significance in these processions.
Before leaving this area of the church, notice the variety of windows, almost all of early date, but now mostly with clear glass. The ones at the east ends of the aisles, where the stone plate is pierced with roundels and a five-pointed star, are unusual. Considerable work has been undertaken in recent years in renewing the stone mullions, worn by the weather over time. The early Norman tub font of simple design is large enough for infant immersion. The aisles both taper by a foot, one to the east, and one to the west. The nave and chancel are slightly out of alignment, perhaps symbolic of Christ’s drooping head on the cross.
Before stepping down into the chancel, run your hand along the wooden screen under the chancel arch. This is all that remains of the great rood-screen which would have dominated the medieval church. The screen was hacked through quite roughly when the church was stripped of its ‘idolatrous’ treasures at the Reformation. Just to the right of the chancel arch is the doorway and stair which used to lead to the rood-screen loft.
The stained glass and memorial tablets in the chancel all commemorate the family of the Victorian rector during whose incumbency the church was restored. On the south wall are a richly decorated triple sedilia and piscina, dating from the fifteenth century when Warmington manor had newly passed to the Carthusian monks of Wytham in Somerset.
A door from the chancel leads into the vestry, built about 1340. The lower room was a chapel, dedicated to St Thomas. The stone altar shows four of its five original crosses cut in the top. An altar would have a piscina nearby for washing the vessels used at Mass. The piscina here has a trefoiled ogee-head and quartrefoil basin. On the opposite wall is a blocked fireplace.
The oak doors and stairway are delightful and a testament to the skills of local carpenters, smiths and masons. The upper room was the priest’s home complete with windows, commanding extensive views, fireplace, lavatory and a shuttered opening for keeping watch over the main alter. The exterior walls of the vestry are extraordinarily thick. One Warmington tradition was that it was used as a prison for recalcitrant monks!
A more credible and interesting suggestion is that the walls were so constructed to carry the weight of a tower. If this was indeed the plan, it was quickly abandoned, for soon after the vestry was built work started on the tower in the usual Warwickshire position at the west end of the nave.
The slightly different stonework on the exterior indicates the stages of its building. The tower is recessed slightly into the nave, presumably to accommodate it in the very limited land there was available for extending the church at the west end. A stair within the thickness of the wall gives access to the bell chamber and the roof. The flight is steep and the treads are worn down to the bottom of the risers. The present bells are dated 1602, 1613 and 1811.
There are many interesting gravestones in the churchyard, which were recorded by members of Warmington WI in a 1981 survey.
VICTORIA COUNTY HISTORY
WARMINGTON
This extract from the Victoria County History gives a very detailed description of the parish church.
The church stands directly on the east side of the main road from Banbury to Warwick at the top of a steep gradient and the village lies mostly to the northeast of it at a lower level. The parish church of ST. MICHAEL, or ST. NICHOLAS, consists of a chancel, north chapel with a priest’s chamber above it, nave, north and south aisles and porches and a west tower.
The nave dates from the 12th century; no detail is left to indicate its original date but it was of the proportion of two squares, common in the early 12th century. A north aisle was added first, about the middle of the 12th century, with an arcade of three bays; a south aisle followed, near the end of the 12th century, also with a three-bay arcade. After about a century a considerable enlargement was begun and continued over a period of half a century or more; the nave was lengthened eastwards about 10 ft. and a new chancel built. The extra length of the side walls added to the nave perhaps remained unpierced at first.
Although there is a general sameness in the Hornton stone ashlar walling throughout, all the various parts—chancel, chapel, aisles, and tower—have different plinths, &c., and there is a great variation in the elevations and details of the windows, showing constant changes from the 14th century, when there was much activity, onwards, probably because of decay and need for repair caused by the church’s exposed position on the brow of a hill.
The south aisle was widened to its present limits about 1290, on the evidence of the wide splays and other details of its windows; but an early-13th-century doorway was re-used. It is possible that the east part of the north aisle followed soon afterwards, c. 1300, as a kind of transeptal chapel, on the evidence of its east window, which differs from the other aisle windows. From c. 1330–40 much was done. The chancel arch was widened, new bays to match were inserted in the east lengths of the nave walls, making both arcades now of four bays, the widening of the whole of the north aisle was completed with the addition of the north porch. The 12th-century north arcade, which seems to have lost its inner order, was probably rebuilt. There is a curious distortion about both aisles, perhaps only explained by the widenings being made in more than one period; the north aisle tapers from west to east and the south aisle tapers from east to west, about a foot each, as compared with the lines of the arcades. The south porch was probably added about 1330.
About 1340 came also the addition of the chapel with the priest’s chamber above it. The north wall of the chancel, probably of the 13th century and thinner than any of the other walls, was kept to form the south wall of the chapel, but the other walls were made unusually thick, as though it was at first intended to raise a higher superstructure than was actually carried out, perhaps even a tower. If such was the intention it was quickly abandoned and the west tower was begun about 1340–5 and carried up to some two-thirds of its present height. There was not much room above the road-side and it had to encroach 2 or 3 ft. into the west end of the nave. The top stage was added or completed in the 15th century.
With the addition of the chapel, alterations were made to the chancel windows, but its south wall had to be rebuilt in the 15th century, when new and larger windows were inserted and the piscina and sedilia constructed.
There have been many repairs and renovations, notably in 1867 to the chancel and 1871 for the rest of the church, and others since then. The roofs have been entirely renewed, though probably more or less of the original forms of the 14th or 15th centuries.
The chancel (about 30½ft. by 16½ft.) has an east window of four trefoiled pointed lights and modern tracery of 14th-century character in a two-centred head with an external hood-mould having head-stops. The jambs and arch, of two moulded orders, and the hood-mould are early-14th-century. In the north wall is a 14th-century doorway into the chapel with jambs and ogee head of three moulded orders and a hoodmould with head-stops, the eastern a cowled man’s, the western a woman’s. It contains an ancient oak door, with stout diagonal framing at the back and hung with plain strap-hinges. At the west end of the wall are two windows close together; the eastern, of c. 1340, of two trefoiled ogee-headed lights and cusped piercings in a square head with an external label having decayed head-stops. It has a shouldered internal lintel which is carved with grotesque faces. The western is a narrower and earlier 14th-century window of two trefoiled ogee-headed lights and a quatrefoil, &c., in a square head with an external label.
The window at the west end of the south wall is similar. The other two are 15th-century insertions, each of two wide cinquefoiled three-centred lights under a square head with head-stops, one a cowled human head, the other beast-heads. The jambs and lintel of two sunk-chamfered orders are old, the rest restored. The rear lintel is also sunk-chamfered and is supported in the middle by a shaped stone bracket from the mullion.
The 14th-century priest’s doorway has jambs and two-centred ogee head of two ovolo-moulded orders and a cambered internal lintel; it has no hood-mould.
Below the south-east window is a 15th-century piscina with small side pilasters that have embattled heads, and a trefoiled ogee head enriched with crockets. The sill, which projects partly as a moulded corbel, has a round basin. West of it are three sedilia of the same character with cinquefoiled ogee heads also crocketed and with finials. At the springing level are carved human-head corbels: the cusp-points are variously carved, an acorn, a snake’s head, a skull, and foliage. The two outer are surmounted by crocketed and finialled gables and all are flanked and divided by pilasters with embattled heads and crocketed pinnacles.
The east wall is built of yellow-grey ashlar with a projecting splayed plinth; the gable-head has been rebuilt. At the south-east angle is a pair of square buttresses of two stages, probably later additions, as the plinth is not carried round them. Another at the former north-east angle has been restored. The south wall is of yellow ashlar but has a moulded plinth of the 15th century. The eaves have a hollow-moulded course with which the uprights of the 15th-century window-labels are mitred.
The 14th-century chancel arch has responds and pointed head of two ovolo-moulded orders interrupted at the springing line by the abacus.
The roof with arched trusses is modern and is covered with tiles.
The north chapel (about 12 ft. east to west by 17 ft. deep) is now used as the vestry, and dates from c. 1340. In its south wall, the thin north wall of the chancel, is a straight joint 3¼ft. from the east wall probably marking the east jamb of a former 13th-century window, and below it is the remnant of an early stringcourse that is chamfered on its upper edge. The east wall is 3 ft. 10 in. thick and the north wall 4 ft. 6 in. In the middle of each is a rectangular one-light window with moulded jambs and head of two orders and an external label; the internal reveals are half splayed and part squared at the inner edges and have a flat stone lintel. The lights were probably cusped originally. In the west wall is a filled-in square-headed fire-place, perhaps original. Partly in the recess of the east window and partly projecting is an ancient thick stone altarslab showing four of the original five crosses cut in the top. It has a hollow-chamfered lower edge and is supported by moulded stone corbels. South of it in the east wall is a piscina with a trefoiled ogee-head and hood-mould and a quatrefoil basin.
The stair-vice that leads up to the story above is in the south-west angle, its doorway being splayed westwards to avoid the doorway to the chancel. In it is an ancient oak door with one-way diagonal framing on the back. The turret projects externally to the west in the angle with the chancel wall; it is square in the lower part but higher is broadened northwards with a splay that is corbelled out below in three courses, the lowest corbel having a trefoiled ogee or blind arch cut in it. The top is tabled back up to the eaves of the chapel west wall. A moulded string-course passes round the projection and there is another half-way up the tabling. The doorway at the top of the spiral stair leading into the upper chamber has an ancient oak door hung with three strap-hinges.
The upper priest’s chamber has an east window of two plain square-headed lights, probably altered. In the north wall is a rectangular window that was of two lights but has lost its mullion. Outside it has a false pointed head of two trefoiled ogee-headed lights and leaf tracery, all of it blank, and a hood-mould with human-head stops, one cowled. Apparently this treatment was purely for decorative purposes, like the square-headed windows at Shotteswell and elsewhere. The south wall is pierced by a watching-hole into the chancel, which is fitted with an iron grill and oak shutter: it has been reduced from a larger opening that had an ogee head and hood-mould. There is a square-headed fire-place in the west wall and in the splayed north-west angle is the entrance to a garderobe or latrine, which is lighted by a north loop.
The walls are of yellow ashlar and have a plinth of two courses, the upper moulded, a moulded stringcourse at first-floor level, and moulded eaves-courses at the sides. The north wall is gabled and has a parapet with string-course and coping. At the angles are diagonal buttresses of two stages; the lower stage is 2½ft. broad up to the first-floor level, above this the upper stage is reduced to about half the breadth. They support square diagonal pinnacles with restored crocketed finials. The west wall is unpierced but above it is a plain square chimney-shaft with an open-side hood on top. Internally the walls are faced with whitish-brown ashlar. The gabled roof is modern and of two bays.
The nave (about 41½ft. by 16½ft.) has north and south arcades of four bays. The easternmost bay on each side, with the first pillar, is of the same detail and date as the chancel arch. They vary in span, the north being about 9 ft. and the south about 10 ft., and in both cases the span is less than those of the older bays. Those on the north side are of 11–12 ft. span and date from the middle of the 12th century. The pillars are circular, the west respond a half-circle, with scalloped capitals, 6 in. high and square in the deep-browed upper part and with a 4½in. grooved and hollowchamfered abacus. The bases are chamfered and stand on square sub-bases. The arches are pointed and of one square order with a plain square hood-mould, The voussoirs are small. The middle parts of the soffits are plastered between the flush inner ends of the voussoirs, suggesting a former inner order, abolished perhaps in a rebuilding of the heads.
The same three bays of the south side are of 11 ft. span and of late-12th-century date. The round pillars are rather more slender than the northern, and the capitals are taller, 12 in. high, with long and shallow scallops, and have 4 in. abaci like the northern. The bases are taller and moulded in forms approaching those of the 13th century, on chamfered square sub-bases.
The pointed arches are of one chamfered order and their hood-moulds are now flush with the plastered wall-faces above.
The half-round west responds of both arcades have been overlapped on the nave side by the east wall of the tower.
High above the 14th-century south-east respond is a 15th-century four-centred doorway to the former rood-loft. The stair-vice leading up to it is entered by a four-centred doorway in the east wall of the south aisle.
The north aisle (11½ft. wide at the east end and 12½ft. at the west) has an uncommon east window of c. 1300. It is of three plain-pointed rather narrow lights; above the middle light, which has a shorter pointed head than the others, is a circle enclosing a pierced five-pointed star, all in a two-centred head with an external hood-mould having defaced head-stops, and with a chamfered rear-arch.
Set fairly close together at the east end of the north wall are two tall windows of c. 1340, each of two trefoiled round-headed lights and foiled leaf-tracery below a segmental-pointed head with an ogee apex, the tracery coming well below the arch. The jambs are of two orders, the outer sunk-chamfered. The lights are wider and the splays of ashlar are more acute than those of the east window.
The third window near the west end is narrower and shorter and of two plain-pointed lights and an uncusped spandrel in a two-centred head: it is of much the same date as the east window. The jambs and head are of two hollow-chamfered orders and the fairly obtuse plastered splays have old angle-dressings. The segmental-pointed rear-arch is chamfered.
The north doorway, also of c. 1340, has jambs and two-centred head without a hood-mould; the segmental rear-arch is of square section. In it is an 18th-century oak door.
The three-light window in the west wall has jambs and splays like those of the north-west but its head has been altered; it is now of three trefoiled ogee-headed lights below a four-centred arch. The chamfered reararch is elliptical.
The walls are yellow ashlar with a chamfered plinth and parapets with moulded string-courses and copings that are continued over the east and west gables. Below the sills of the two north-east windows is a plain stringcourse. At the east angle is a pair of shallow square buttresses and a diagonal buttress at the west, all ancient. White ashlar facing is exposed inside between the two north-east windows only, the remainder being plastered. The gabled roof of trussed-rafter type is modern and covered with tiles.
The south aisle (13 ft. wide at the east end and 12 ft. at the west) has an east window of three plain-pointed lights, and three plain circles in plate tracery form, in a two-centred head with an external hood-mould having mask stops. The yellow stone jambs and head of two chamfered orders and the wide ashlar splays are probably of the late 13th century; the grey stone mullions and tracery are apparently old restorations but are probably reproductions of the original forms.
There are two south windows: the eastern is of two wide cinquefoiled elliptical-headed lights under a square main head with an external label with return stops. The jambs are of two moulded orders, the inner (and the mullion) with small roll-moulds, probably of the 13th century re-used when the window was refashioned in the 15th century. The wide splays are of rubble-work and there is a chamfered segmental reararch. The western is a narrower opening of two trefoiled-pointed lights, with the early form of soffit cusping, and early-14th-century tracery in a twocentred head: the jambs are of two chamfered orders and the wide splays are plastered, with ashlar dressings: the chamfered rear-arch is segmental pointed.
The reset south doorway has jambs and pointed head of two moulded orders with filleted rolls and undercut hollows of the early 13th century, divided by a three-quarter hollow more typical of a later period, and all are stopped on a single splayed base. The hoodmould has defaced shield-shaped head-stops. There are four steps down into the church through this doorway.
The window in the west wall is like that in the east but the three lights are trefoiled and the three circles in the two-centred head are quatrefoiled: the head is all restored work. The jambs are ancient and precisely like those of the square-headed south window, and the wide splays are of rubble-work.
The walls are of yellow fine-jointed ashlar and have plinths of two splayed courses, the upper projecting like that of the east chancel-wall, and plain parapets with restored copings. At the angles are old and rather shallow diagonal buttresses. There are three scratched sundials on the south wall, one, a complete circle, being on a west jambstone of the south-east window.
The gabled roof is modern like that of the north aisle.
The south porch is built of ashlar like that of the aisle but the courses do not tally and it has a different plinth, a plain hollow-chamfer. The gabled south wall has a parapet with a restored coping. The pointed entrance is of two orders, the inner ovolo-moulded, the outer hollow-chamfered, and has a hood-mould of 13thcentury form. There are side benches. The roof is modern but on the wall of the aisle are cemented lines marking the position of an earlier high-pitched roof at a lower level than the present one.
The north porch is of shallower projection. It has a gabled front with diagonal buttresses and coped parapet and a pointed entrance with jambs and head of two chamfered orders, the inner hollow, and a hood-mould with head-stops.
The west tower (about 9½ft. square) is of three stages divided by projecting splayed string-courses: it has a high plinth, with a moulded upper member and chamfered lower course, and a plain parapet. The walls are of yellow ashlar, that of the two upper stages being of rather rougher facing and in smaller courses than the lowest stage. At the west angles are diagonal buttresses reaching to the top of the second stage. There are no east buttresses but in the angle of the north wall with the end of the nave is a shallow buttress against the nave-wall. In the south-west angle, but not projecting, is a stair-vice with a pointed doorway in a splay, and lighted by a west loop. The archway to the nave has a two-centred head of two chamfered orders, the inner dying on the reveals, the outer mitring with the single chamfered order of the responds. It has large voussoirs. The wall on either side of the archway is of squared rough-tooled ashlar.
The 14th-century west doorway has jambs and pointed head of two wave-moulded orders divided by a three-quarter hollow, and a hood-mould with return stops. The head of the tall and narrow 14th-century west window is carried up into the second stage, its hood-mould springing from the string-course. It is of two trefoiled ogee-headed lights and a quatrefoil in a two-centred head: the jambs are of two chamfered orders.
There are no piercings in the second stage, but on the north side is a modern clock face.
The bell-chamber has 15th-century windows, each of two lights with depressed trefoiled ogee heads and uncusped tracery in which the mullion line is continued up to the apex of the two-centred head. The jambs are of two chamfered orders and there is no hood-mould.
The font is circular and dates probably from the 13th century. It has a plain tapering bowl, a short stem with a comparatively large 13th-century moulding at the top: a short base is also moulded.
In the vestry is an ancient iron-bound chest.
There are three bells, the first of 1811, the second of 1616, and the tenor of 1602 by Edward Newcombe.
The registers begin in 1636.
Advowson
The church was valued at £8 6s. 8d. in 1291, and at £16 3s. 10d., in addition to a pension of 13s. 4d. payable to Witham Priory, in 1535. The advowson passed with the manor until 1602, when the patron was Richard Cooper. In 1628 William Hall and Edward Wotton, by concession of — Hill, the patron, presented Richard Wotton, who at the time of his wife’s death in 1637 was ‘rector and patron, of the church’. In 1681 and 1694 presentations were made by Thomas Farrer, and from 1726 till his death in 1764 the patronage was held by his son Thomas Farrer. His widow Alice held it in 1766, but by 1773 it had been divided between their two daughters, Mary wife of John Adams, and Elizabeth Farrer (1782) who afterwards married Hamlyn Harris. In 1802 Henry Bagshaw Harrison was patron and rector. He died in 1830, and by 1850 the advowson had been acquired by Hulme’s Trustees, in whose hands it has continued, so that they now present on two out of three turns to the combined living of Warmington and Shotteswell, which was annexed to it in 1927.
For a list of rectors and clergy of Warmington see the ‘trades and occupations’ section of the site.
www.warmingtonheritage.com/village-history/significant-bu....
Julia asked if we could set up a Valentines day shoot quickly for the upcoming holiday. She wanted to be able to print out a picture and frame it. Always willing to shoot with her I came up with an Idea for something pink. She wanted a pin up style look so we searched for dresses that would match the look we were going for. We took a trip to the arts district in downtown in hopes of finding a pin up style dress. I was quite shocked what I had seen there. It pretty much was a huge swap meet with people yelling at you from there little shops trying to get you to come in. We could not locate anything close to what we needed so we went with the online route. She found a little dress she liked and we set up the shoot for the following weekend. I decided to book smash studios in long beach after seeing a few friends shoot there. I have never shot in a studio before and wasn't quite sure just what to expect. The guy who ran the place was extremely nice and gave me a quick walk though and just let me have a run of the place while he went to the back office. It was nice that he wasn't around and gave us total freedom to do what we want. The shoot went great and made me wish I had my own backdrop to do this kind of thing more often.
Strobist: sb-800 in a foldable softbox on the left of the camera, 2 sb-600 on the right of the camera one high one low in shoot though umbrellas 1/2 power, triggered by nikon cls.
We were quite excited to be able to try this new "Malaysian Cuisine" that appeared in Chinatown, especially after several false starts of it being closed for one-day renovations a few days after it's opening, and queues during lunchtime.
Maybe our expectations of it were too high, but our first impressions was that the coconut rice wasn't that "lemak". In other words, not rich enough in coconut milk and/or pandan leaves, or in their posh terminology, "pandanus". Aiya, call a pandan a pandan lah. The beef rendang was quite good, but wasn't that great. I think I prefer the rendang at Nelayan where the sauce is rich and unctuous. The sambal squid turned out quite well though, tender morsels of fat squid in a good tangy sambal. Julia failed the dish after tasting soggy peanuts and ikan bilis, the deep fried anchovies that are supposed to be crunchy.
Next came the "white coffee" that Old Town Kopitiam supposedly invented, so named after the White Cafe that was its birthplace, or so the story goes on the Old Town White Coffee website. One sip from both of us and our knowing glances at each other signalled, instant coffee. C'mon lah, brew the real stuff.
Our last dish was the Char Kuay Teow. They had ran out of blood cockles, or clams proclaimed the menu, even though it was a AUD2 addition to the dish. Authentic CKT comes with cockles. If you don't like it, exclude it, but perhaps in a nod to Western sensibilities, it is left out. Educate their palates I say. While the noodles and dish itself is not bad, with a faint whiff of smokiness from a hot wok, the noodles were thin, like Pad Thai noodles. Not entirely authentic, but not too bad either. And the prawns were decent sized.
The logo on the signage and menu suggests that it could be somehow related to Old Town White Coffee or Old Town Kopitiam in Malaysia. I should have asked a friendly waiter dressed in black, who i suspect might be the boss or shareholder. Then again, the service was very friendly overall.
Would we go back? Well, I'll at least give it a second chance for the curry laksa, assam laksa, chicken curry, or the nasi goreng fried rice. I didn't even manage an Ice Kacang or Cendol. Both sold out, apparently.
Old Town Kopitiam
Little Bourke St, Melbourne
(previously Banana Palm, between Russell and Swanston Streets)
Photos:
- Char Kuay Teow - AUD9. AUD2 extra for blood cockles.
- Char Kuay Teow - Jeff's iPhone
- Old Town Kopitiam Nasi Lemak with Beef Rendang and Sambal Squid - AUD10
- Top view - Old Town Kopitiam Nasi Lemak with Beef Rendang and Sambal Squid - AUD10
- Authentic sauces + trendy display
- Decor
First a rant, then a review. I (try) to work hard at my job to be able to afford to try new beers and eventually review them. However, it pisses me the eff off when one of my roommates has been stealing my beers and beer glasses for weeks now. I had a hoard of Quebec beers, I wanted to drink my bottle of Unibroue "U" Rousse, and hmm.. for some reason the bottle was opened and empty. That's not like me.. EVERY time I try/drink a beer, I post it on untappd, even if it's Club or OV. But this time, I looked to see if I had it very late at night when I may have had a few too many.. nope. I didn't check in.. so something's up. I look in a box where I had 12 different Quebec beers.. oh look.. 6 of them are all empty.. I didn't even get to try them! Then the other day I wanted to drink a bottle of Unibroue 17 Grande Réserve out of my Unibroue glass (Note: I bought one for $25 + shipping off eBay and got another two from my friend Jonny, but the other two are at the farm), the Unibroue glass is missing! I live in a place that's basically a dorm meets rooming home, everyone here's about my age. None of them really like beer, so it seems really unusual that someone would be stealing my beer I used my HARD EARNED MONEY to buy.. IN QUEBEC! You may be saying "but Cody? Why don't you move out?" Well, I'm perpetually broke. I can't afford to move out. Every time I do have money, I save it for my Quebec bièrcation fund ($50 or so per paycheque) and the rest goes to bills bills bills. I'm sick of this fucking shit.. I work my ass off (even if some don't think I do.. I honestly try my best) and this is the thanks I get. What does this have to do with tonight's review? One beer that fortunately DIDN'T get stolen out of the box was the new Big Bison ESB by Fort Garry Brewing.
Matt & team over at Fort Garry Brewing have been working on a bunch of new seasonals/one-offs for quite a while now, and I still remember reviewing their very first craft beer, Munich Eisbock back in 2011.. oh how the times have changed!
Appearance: Big Bison, like most of their seasonals/Brewmasters beers comes in a painted 650mL bottle. Big Bison has a portrait of a.. bison with the words Big Bison on it, with a 1970 Manitoba centennialesque "Manitoba" logo. Pours a somewhat clear slightly reddish-honey golden ale, thick amount of creamy beige head, fluffy as heck.
Aroma: Has a kind of Fort Garryesque aroma to it, reminiscent of Fort Garry's Rouge in aroma, some moderate amount of bitterness from the hops, a whiff of barley, sweet caramel malt notes and slightly bready.
Taste: While it's called a "bitter", it's quite moderate in bitterness to the tongue.. hi-oh ;) It has a bit of a creamy mouthfeel, floral yet somewhat bitter hops, caramel maltiness, slightly grainy, and somewhat toasted. The flavour is very much of a Fort Garry taste to it, it has a combination of Fort Garry of the past meets Fort Garry of the present. Notes that remind me of Fort Garry Rouge and Gibraltar yet flavours we should expect from Brewmaster Matt.
Overall Thoughts: I'm nowhere near as cranky as I was when I was starting this piece, the beer really calmed me down, soothed me to the point I'm just about ready to go to sleep. I've had quite a few Extra Special Bitters (ESBs) in the past few weeks thanks to taste testing beers at the Lt Governor's Winter Festival, and this is an incredibly solid ESB, nice moderate amount of bitterness, creamy on the palate, caramel notes, a bit toasty, not a beer you would see in Manitoba circa 1970 but this is a style that seems to be one of the "next big styles" in beer, as I've seen a few of my favourite breweries starting to experiment with ESBs as of late. Costs $6.55/650ML bottle at the Liquormart. 5.5% ABV and 45 IBU. I love the name, it's really a Manitoban kind of beer name, and the 1970 "Manitoba" logo reminds me of Manitoba's past. This will of course, pair well with a local bison burger topped with fresh bacon (with a bit of drizzling of maple syrup), Bothwell's award winning Monterey Jack cheese, buns from Le Croissant, Minary Homestyle Bakery in Souris or my favourite.. Stella's Cracked Wheat buns. Oh and don't forget to have a bit of BBQ sauce for the Big Bison burger.. a stout/dark ale BBQ sauce will do its trick!
Okay.. I'm hungry.
Thursday morning, and all I had to do was get back to Kent. Hopefully before five so I could hand the hire car back, but getting back safe and sound would do, really.
I woke at six so I could be dressed for breakfast at half six when it started, and as usual when in a hotel, I had fruit followed by sausage and bacon sarnies. And lots of coffee.
Outside it had snowed. OK, it might only be an inch of the stuff, but that's more than an inch needed to cause chaos on the roads.
Back to the room to pack, one last look round and back to reception to check out, then out into the dawn to find that about a quarter of the cars were having snow and ice cleared off them before being able to be driven.
I joined them, scraping the soft snow then the ice. Bracing stuff at seven in the morning.
Now able to see out, I inched out of the car park and out to the exit and onto the untreated roads.
It was a picturesque scene, but not one I wanted to stop to snap. My first road south had only been gritted on one side, thankfully the side I was travelling down, but was still just compacted snow.
After negotiating two roundabouts, I was on the on ramp to the M6, and a 60 mile or so drive south. The motorway was clear of snow, but huge amounts of spray was thrown up, and the traffic was only doing 45mph, or the inside lane was, and that was quite fast and safe enough for me.
More snow fell as I neared Stoke, just to add to the danger of the journey, and then the rising sun glinted off the road, something which I had most of the drive home.
I went down the toll road, it costs eight quid, but is quick and easy. And safe too with so little traffic on it. I think for the first time, I didn't stop at the services, as it was only about half nine, and only three hours since breakfast.
And by the time I was on the old M6, there was just about no snow on the ground, and the road was beginning to dry out.
My phone played the tunes from my apple music store. Loudly. So the miles slipped by.
After posting some shots from Fotheringhay online, a friend, Simon, suggested others nearby that were worth a visit, and I also realised that I hadn't taken wide angle shots looking east and west, so I could drop in there, then go to the others suggested.
And stopping here was about the half way point in the journey so was a good break in the drive, and by then the clouds had thinned and a weak sin shone down.
Fotheringhay is as wonderful as always, it really is a fine church, easy to stop there first, where I had it to myself, and this time even climbed into the richly decorated pulpit to snap the details.
A short drive away was Apethorpe, where there was no monkey business. The village was built of all the same buttery yellow sandstone, looking fine in the weak sunshine.
Churches in this part of Northamptonshire are always open, Simon said.
Not at Apethorpe. So I made do with snapping the church and the village stocks and whipping post opposite.
A short drive up the hill was King's Cliffe. Another buttery yellow village and a fine church, which I guessed would be open.
Though it took some finding, as driving up the narrow high street I failed to find the church. I checked the sat nav and I had driven right past it, but being down a short lane it was partially hidden behind a row of houses.
The church was open, and was surrounded by hundreds of fine stone gravestones, some of designs I have not seen before, but it was the huge numbers of them that was impressive.
Inside the church was fine, if cold. I record what I could, but my compact camera's batter had died the day before, and I had no charger, so just with the nifty fifty and the wide angle, still did a good job of recording it.
Back to the car, I program the sat nav for home, and set off back to Fotheringhay and the A14 beyond.
No messing around now, just press on trying to make good time so to be home before dark, and time to go home, drop my bags, feed the cats before returning the car.
No real pleasure, but I made good time, despite encountering several bad drivers, who were clearly out only to ruin my mood.
Even the M25 was clear, I raced to the bridge, over the river and into Kent.
Nearly home.
I drive back down the A2, stopping at Medway services for a sandwich and a huge coffee on the company's credit card.
And that was that, just a blast down to Faversham, round onto the A2 and past Canterbury and to home, getting back at just after three, time to fill up the bird feeders, feed the cats, unpack and have a brew before going out at just gone four to return the car.
Jools would rescue me from the White Horse on her way home, so after being told the car was fine, walked to the pub and ordered two pints of Harvey's Best.
There was a guy from Essex and his American girlfriend, who were asking about all sorts of questions about Dover's history, and I was the right person to answer them.
I was told by a guide from the Castle I did a good job.
Yay me.
Jools arrived, so I went out and she took me home. Where the cats insisted they had not been fed.
Lies, all lies.
Dinner was teriyaki coated salmon, roasted sprouts and back, defrosted from before Christmas, and noodles.
Yummy.
Not much else to tell, just lighting the fire, so Scully and I would be toast warm watch the exciting Citeh v Spurs game, where Spurs were very Spursy indeed.
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From Easton-on-the-Hill I cycled on through Collyweston, passing the church with the eccentric keyholder who I had met the previous July, and then turned off through the fields. This led me to a short stretch of the A47, which thankfully wasn't terribly busy, and then I turned off on a long, winding road down from the top of the ridge through the forest until I reached Kingscliffe, one of the loveliest villages in Northamptonshire.
I had visited the church here before, in May 2016, but on that occasion a wedding had just started and so I wasn't able to see inside. The village is large, and had once been served by the railway, and it still has a busy feel. As I headed down the village high street, an ancient Skoda passed me, and I wondered if it was much more likely for such a thing to survive out here in remote Northamptonshire than in the busy towns and cities. When I got to the church, the Skoda was parked outside, and as I leaned my bike against the wall an elderly man came out of the churchyard, got in the car and drove off. It was just before nine o'clock. Thus, I had witnessed the church-opener going about his business.
This is a tremendous building, a great cruciform church with a central tower set four-square on a rise surrounded by hundreds of unreset Ketton stone headstones. You step into a wide open space that swallows sound, and I was immediately put in mind of the great churches of south Lincolnshire, which after all is only a few miles off. The star of the show here is a good collection of medieval glass, including some angels which are so similar to those in one of the Stamford churches that they must be the same workshop, and possibly even from the same collection. The rest of the glass is mostly by Kempe and not bad (as you know, I am not a huge fan), and the overall feel of the Anglo-catholic tradition, only slightly faded and diluted, is delicious. One curiosity is an elaborate spiral staircase set below the central tower.
I eventually tugged myself away, and headed off in the direction of Blatherwycke, through gentle fields and eventually past the stone walls of the Blatherwycke estate.
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Ecclesiastical
¶(1) The Parish Church of All Saints (Fig. 115; Plate 8) stands in a large churchyard on the S. side of the village. It consists of a Chancel, Central Tower, North and South Transepts, Nave with Aisles, and North and South Porches. The walls are built in coursed limestone rubble; the tower has Barnack quoins and the spire is in freestone. The roofs of the chancel and porches are steep-pitched and stone-slated and the remainder are flat-pitched. The earliest part is the central tower which belongs to the first half of the 12th century as indicated by the style of the windows in the second stage. However, the tower has projecting corners, except on the N.E. where the chancel and N. transept have been widened and its plan is irregular; these characteristics are usually associated with pre-Conquest buildings. It is not possible to say whether or not the first church had transepts. Since the 12th century much of the church has been rebuilt. In the 13th century the spire was added, the N. wall of the chancel was rebuilt slightly to the N. of its former line and the E. and W. tower arches were remodelled. In this operation the new E. tower arch was set off-centre to conform with the widened chancel; the original axis of the chancel is indicated by a 12th-century window in the E. wall of the tower above the E. arch. Also at this time a chapel N. of the chancel was proposed, and possibly built, as demonstrated by a respond of an arch against the N.E. corner of the tower. Early features in the W. walls of the nave and the N. aisle show that the 13th-century nave and N. aisle were the same length as at present. The existence of a N. aisle implies that there was a transept N. of the tower at this time. Except for two 14th-century windows inserted in these 13th-century W. walls, the nave, most of the W. wall of the N. transept, the S. transept, the S. aisle and both porches, belong to the early 15th century. In the late 15th century the chancel was rebuilt, on the lines of the former walls, and the E. and N. walls of the N. transept were rebuilt, the E. wall about one metre further to the E. A diagonal passage was formed at the junction of the N. wall of the chancel and the E. wall of the transept. Also in the 15th century, the N. and S. tower arches were remodelled.
A major restoration by Browning of Stamford took place in 1862 when galleries and the old pews were removed (NRO, Faculty, 16 Aug. 1862; Peterborough Advertiser, 6 June 1863).
The church is notable for its early origin and for its dominating appearance.
Architectural Description – The Chancel has a freestone ogee-moulded plinth and two-stage weathered buttresses, those on the E. being set diagonally but not exactly on the diagonal axis. The eaves are plain and the E. wall has a parapeted gable which carries a lozenge-shaped panel inscribed '1648'; this date presumably refers to the rebuilding of the upper part of the walling which is of smaller stones than the lower. An offset, visible internally, indicates a former low-pitched roof. The E. window of the 15th-century has vertical tracery and a quatrefoil in the head. In the side walls 15th-century windows have vertical tracery and triangular heads. A priest's door in the N. wall has a four-centred head. At the N.W. corner is a diagonal passage to the N. transept; it has a flat ceiling supported on a 13th-century respond with fillets on the shafts, water-holding base and roll-moulded capital.
The Central Tower of two external stages was built in the first half of the 12th century if not earlier; the upper part and the broach spire belong to the 13th century. The S.E. external angle has quoins of Barnack stone and no plinth. Some quoins at a high level are set upright; two survive on the S.E., and one on the S.W. The E. arch of two chamfered orders supported on semi-octagonal responds has a label with mask stops; it is probably late 13th-century. The N. and S. arches have two-centred heads of two chamfered orders, the inner carried on semi-octagonal capitals and half-round shafts with wave-moulded bases; these 15th-century arches are not set centrally in the tower walls. The W. arch has two chamfered orders carried on semi-octagonal capitals and half-round shafts with water-holding bases. In the E. wall above the arch is a small round-headed 12th-century window, with deeply splayed jambs, which opens into the chancel. In the second stage on all four faces and above the level of the small window, are round-headed windows of the same date, those on the E., N. and S. with two recessed inner lights separated by a circular shaft with a scroll-decorated base, capital with primitive volutes and square abacus (Plate 5). The window on the W. is without a recessed containing arch; each of the two lights have straight unmoulded jambs, and are separated by two shafts set across the wall to carry a through-stone instead of a square abacus. Although the window is blocked internally the two shafts are visible on the nave side (Fig. 116). The sill, forming part of a double-chamfered string-course which continues round the tower, has been cut in two places to receive the steep gable of a former nave roof. The third stage of the tower is mostly 13th-century; the centre parts of the walls at this level are recessed. On each face is a tall belfry window the upper half of which becomes a gabled lucarne against the spire; they are of two lights with circular shafts, pierced central spandrels, and nail-head enrichment. The broach spire, with eaves supported on mask-stop corbels, has four small lucarnes of two lights and a blunt pyramidal finial. In the spandrel of the W. tower arch is a square-headed doorway, now blocked, which probably led to the rood loft; it is perhaps late-medieval.
The North Transept has a high ogee-moulded plinth on the E. and N., diagonal buttresses of two weathered stages and a wide projection in the angle between the chancel and the transept, fashioned as a buttress to accommodate the diagonal passage. On the E. and N. is a roll-moulded continuous sill-course, below which the walling is mostly of reused material. The parapets are plain, but below them on the W. the string-course is enriched with mask stops, possibly reused, and a carved boss. Most of the W. wall is of earlier date than those on the E. and N.; it sets back at the point where the aisle meets the transept, conforming with the arch below. The late 15th-century E. window has a four-centred head and trefoil-headed lights. The N. window of the same date has a square head, three lights with flat, cusped heads, and a label with head stops, one a female with square head-dress the other a male with forked beard. In the W. wall is a small 17th-century rectangular window with ovolo-moulded jambs and head.
¶The South Transept, of the early 15th century, has an ogee-moulded plinth, diagonal buttresses, and embattled parapets. In the E. wall is a small 16th-century doorway with a four-centred head; above it is the head of a single-light 13th-century window or recess, probably reset. The E. and S. windows have pointed segmental heads, trefoil-headed lights and quatrefoils; the tracery in the S. window has been renewed as a result of a flue, since removed, being built against the window.
The W. wall has two 15th-century four-stage buttresses with cusped and gabled tops. The W. window has splayed jambs with keel-moulded arrises and a roll-moulded internal sill of the 13th century; within the splays is a 14th-century window with curvilinear tracery having a central octofoil and mouchettes. Above, the line of an earlier steep-pitched -roof which matches that on the tower is visible externally. The 15th-century clearstorey has an embattled parapet and windows all with two trefoil-headed lights and labels with head stops; at the W. end, over the aisles, are small pilasters with gabled tops. Gargoyles, three on each side, are carved as grotesque heads, mostly of animals.
The North Aisle has a N. wall with an ogee-moulded plinth and gargoyles carved as a crowned head and a muzzled beast. At the E. end is an arch with wave-and-hollow mouldings which die into the side walls. The side windows have pointed segmental heads, ogee-headed lights and twin quatrefoils in the tracery. The N. doorway has a four-centred head and continuous moulded jambs. In the W. wall a hollow-moulded jamb with a roll stop, and part of a chamfered sill, remain from the 13th century. Above, is a late 14th-century window of three graduated and cusped lights. The South Aisle is uniform with the N. aisle and wholly of the 15th century. The first window has a label with head stops. Two gargoyles survive carved with grotesque human heads.
The North Porch, of the 15th century, has an archway with a four-centred head of two chamfered orders, the outer continuous, the inner carried on half-round responds. In the parapeted gable is a panel inscribed '1663 LT TR' which may refer to a rebuilding of part of the porch. On the E. and W. are single-light windows and inside are stone benches. The South Porch is similar to that on the N. but lacks side windows. On the exterior, E. of the entrance arch is an indent for a brass of a kneeling male figure with inscription plate, 15th-century (Fig. 117).
The Roof of the S. transept is low-pitched with cambered tie beams, wall posts and stone corbels carved with male and female heads. The nave roof, of four bays has cambered tie beams, arched braces resting on stone head corbels, and intermediate principals terminating on wooden angels with shields. At the junction of the principals and the purlins are foliated bosses; 15th-century.
Fittings – Bells: six; 1st, inscribed 'Iohn Nebon Esq gave Henry Penn made me 1714'; 2nd, inscribed 'Mistris Maria Hartleie widdo casthis bell, 1619. Richard Bardon Nicholas Baili Gardian. Mvlt ivocati pauci electi 1619'; 3rd, by T. Mears, 1832; 4th, modern; 5th, inscribed 'William Eywood Henrie Thorpe 1592'; 6th, inscribed 'IHS Nazarenus Rex Iudeorum Fili Dei miserere mei. Tho Eayre A.D. 1738'; recast 1917. Brasses and Indents. Brasses (Plate 68): in chancel (1), on N. wall, of Richard Wildbore, 1688; (2), of Samuel Wyman, woolstapler, 1700; both are small rectangular plates. Indent: see S. porch. Font: rounded limestone bowl with four circular cusped panels and smaller blank roundels between, 13th-century; beneath the latter are moulded capitals which now rest on modern detached shafts grouped round a central stem. Paley (Baptismal Fonts (1844) ) shows the bowl on a stout octagonal stem, the top of which now forms the base. In 1862 it was moved from the N. aisle where it stood on a foot-pace (faculty in NRO), and was again dismantled and reassembled in 1897 (NRO, Messrs. Roberts' account, of Stamford).
Glass: most of the early glass in the church is said to have come from Fotheringhay and been installed by the Rev. H. K. Bonney in 1862, but Bridges, writing before 1724, recorded ancient glass in the S. aisle and this probably survives incorporated in the present arrangement. Other early pieces were added in 1897 to the N. and S. aisle windows (Messrs. Roberts' account, of Stamford). Those pieces bearing the heraldic badges of the House of York, for example the fetterlock and the sun in splendour, presumably came from Fotheringhay. Unless otherwise stated the glass is 15th-century. In S. transept, in E. window (1), set in quatrefoils: unidentified shield, probably 18th-century, and four quarries showing a white rose in a sun in splendour, an oak tree, oak leaves, and a rose and fetterlock; 18th-century heraldic lion, and four quarries showing seated animals, foliage and a black-letter U entwined with cords; in S. window (2), in quatrefoils: fragment of figure possibly playing bagpipes, and four quarries with oak leaves; roundel with eagle of St. John inscribed 'iohannes', and four quarries depicting a sun in splendour and oak leaves. In nave in W. window (3), random fragments include figures playing stringed instruments, a crown, fetterlocks and oak trees. In N. aisle in W. window (4), angel playing trumpet, roundel with lion of St. Mark and inscribed scroll, angel playing lute. Locker: in chancel, small recess, medieval.
¶Monuments and Floor slabs. Monuments: in chancel – on N. wall (1), of John Neabon, 1713, and Susanna his wife who erected tablet, 1748; (2), of Thomas Law, 1714, freestone, with broken pediment enclosing skull, wide pilasters decorated with foliage, and large monogram on apron; (3), of Charlotte Bonney, 1850, by R. Brown, 58 Great Russell Street, London. On S. wall (4), of Sarah Browne (Butler), 1681, and Mary Butler, 1683, round-headed inscription panel, segmental broken pediment, side scrolls, lozenge of arms of Butler on base flanked by palm branches. In N. transept – on E. wall (5), of William Walker, 1823; (6), to three generations of the Thorpe family, masons, dated 1623, freestone, with broken pediment enclosing obelisk and painted shield of arms of Thorpe, shaped apron inscribed 'Thomas' three times, and remains of painted inscription recorded fully by Bridges (II, 432); the youngest Thomas was father of John Thorpe, the architect (Plate 65). On S. wall (7), of Thomas Boughton, 1658, with steep pediment, shield of arms of Boughton in the tympanum impaling an unidentified quartered coat; (8), of Emma Mason, 1837, by Smith of Stamford; on W. wall (9), of Rev. Henry Bonney, rector, 1810, and (10), of Bridget Bonney his wife, 1824. In N. aisle – on N. wall (11), of Jane Maddock, 1835. In S. aisle – on S. wall (12), of Francis Mason, 1818, Elizabeth his wife, 1844, and Scott Secker their grandson, 1842, by Fearn of Stamford; (13), of Elizabeth Cunnington, 1827, lozenge-shaped panel by Gilbert of Stamford; (14), of Eleanor Dafforn, 1847; (15), of Emma Law, 1829, by Gilbert of Stamford; (16), of Elizabeth Carrington, 1825; (17), of Thomas Law, 1739, and (18), of Martha Law (Forde), 1725, a pair of freestone tablets with segmental pediments, bolection-moulded surrounds, gadrooned sills and shaped aprons with shields of arms of Law impaling Forde, flanked by branches (Plate 72). In N. porch – on E. wall (19), of Ann Wood, 1796, and others, surmounted by urn; (20), of Roger Wood, 1818, and Elizabeth his wife, 1814, freestone, by Stevens. On S. wall (21), of Charles Attkins, 1802, and Ann, 1783, freestone oval tablets; (22), of Ann Attkins, 1781, freestone eared tablet with shaped panels above and below decorated with cherub's head and flowers. In S. porch – on W. wall (23), of Elizabeth Carrington, 1798, by Glithero; (24), of James Carrington, 1822, by Stephens. Monuments listed without full descriptions are of simple design. Floor slabs: in chancel – (1), of Rev. H. K. Bonney, rector, 1810, and Bridget his wife, 1824; (2), of Rev. W. Pyemont, an 'Allways Resident Rector', 1751, freestone with pitch-filled foliage decoration. In N. transept – (3), of John Walker, 1809.
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