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A look through the viewfinder. It's nice and bright - if you can see what you're trying to take a picture of, you'll be able to focus on it if your lens is appropriate at all.
On the right hand side is the speed indicator: LEDs indicate the metered speed (two means that the speed is between the two). If you have it set on a speed manually, that will appear as a blinking LED if not the same as the metered speed. OVER and UNDER are too fast or too slow for the camera... on auto, it will stay open for up to 40 seconds though.
The central part has a diagonal split focus bar and a ground glass ring around that.
The small rectangle at the bottom shows the aperture. It's just a little window down onto the dial on the lens, nothing fancy.
Made in Germany by Wilhem Witt, which took over the original Iloca company in early 1950s. According to the McKeown's guide, this is the earlier version of Tower 50 that is similar to the Iloca Quick L introduced in 1954. There is also a later version (1956-1958) based on the Iloca Quick R that has the rapid wind lever and a thicker base for the top cover.
It is equipped with a Steinheil Munchen Cassar 1:2.8 45mm lens in a Vero shutter, with speeds from 1/25 to 1/200, plus B. The viewfinder is quite small. Guess focusing from 3 feet to infinity by rotating the front cell. The back cover can be removed for easy film loading. The way it is removed is unusual -- by prying the rear-left side panel. The body is made of cast metal and feels very solid.
This camera is special in that its shutter resembles a program shutter with two shared aperture and shutter blades. However, there is no speed governor commonly found in program shutters (the flywheel on the C35 shutter and the escape on some Seiko shutters). As the result, the shutter blades move in a snap and the shutter open time remains relatively stable (about 1/125) regardless of the aperture size. The aperture size is controlled by the combination of the weather settings (sunny, cloudy, flash, close up flash) and the film speed settings (100, 200/400, 1000), resulting six different values from f/4.5 to f/16.
The shutter is pure mechanical and once cocked can be released without battery. However, there is no way to manually cock the shutter -- it has to be done by the motor driven film advance mechanism.
It has a 34mm f/4.5 lens with fixed focus. The CdS sensor is only used for low light warning (so you can turn the flash on manually).
It seems to be almost identical (except the ISO labeling) to the Halina Speedy 33, made by Haking of Hong Kong.
Not sure what the green light mean. Maybe it's focus locked despite not properly exposed. Would need the DW20 waist level finder to have more information I guess.
Anyway, testing the CY adapter to GFX. So far, it seems 50mm and longer focal length works on the GFX. Did try Nikkor 28-50mm. There's a circle covering the corners at 28mm. It's gone by 35mm which I assume would be the widest. This is probably true for the 6:7 aspect ratio I am shooting at now.
This is a nice little compact camera from the late 1960s. It is very sturdy with all metal construction. The condition is surprisingly good except that the lens label plate is missing and the foam seals need replacement. The selenium meter is still working, but the EV reading is one stop lower when compared with my DSLR. This can be compensated with higher ISO setting (e.g. use ISO 200 for ISO 100 film). The maximum ISO setting is 200. That leaves ISO 100 film as the best choice for this camera.
The lens is Fujinon 38mm f/2.8 with aperture down to f/22. The Seiko-L shutter has speed 1/30-1/250s, and Bulb. The shutter works in one of three modes: (1) when the aperture is set to "A", the shutter is automatically locked to "A/flash", this is the programmed auto exposure mode; (2) when the aperture is set to a non-"A" position and the shutter is set to "A/flash", the shutter speed is set to a fixed flash sync speed, this is the flash mode; (3) when both aperture and shutter are set to non-"A" position, it works in full manual exposure mode.
Yashica D, viewfinder, taken with sony nex6 + sony 50 1.8 oss
Edited in LR + PS with a B/W Layer and masked and painted colour
Russian-made post-war 3,5cm 24x36 silver viewfinder, commonly used with Kiev and Zorki rangefinders.
During a recent trip back to my old house, I came across this old Kodak duaflex camera that I had picked up at a yard sale a good 10-15 years ago, and had never really thought about using. I opened it up, and checked it out, and it appears to be in perfect condition. So I picked up some film over at Central Camera, and we wandered around Chicago taking some pictures with it.
Will the photos come out? Who knows, but it was a lot of fun. This camera is just about as simple as one can get: the focus is fixed, there is only two choices of shutter speed: fixed and bulb. Hopefully it takes a nice and sharp picture, but it has definitely made me interested in getting a cheap medium format camera.
it was a birthday present from my husband, and it's such fun to use. I bought the Voigtlander viewfinder to make it complete ( in my eyes anyway ).....
I got a Rolleiflex tattoo on my right arm. It's about 4x6 in size.
Liz Miller at Relentless Tattoo in Sacramento was the artist.
A favourite toy when we're directing.
There's no better way to feel like Kubrick on set - except directing really, really well.
Viewfinder removed from an old film camera. _Really_ interesting mechanics - it's like a periscope with more magic.
How to make a Viewfinder Magnifier for your Camera
Eventually most of us will end up needing spectacles for reading, the older we get the more our eyesight deteriorates and the day will come when the dioptres on our cameras can no longer be adjusted. About four years ago I was about three + clicks from the end of the dioptre adjustment on my Nikon D7200 and last year I reached the end, the last click went by, and sooner or later I was going to have to purchase a viewfinder magnifier, but which one to get? What if it's no good, what about the expense? Getting a proper Nikon one was out of the question due to the cost. Anyway, it seems that there are two basic types of viewfinder magnifier, ones with adjustable focusing and ones with fixed focusing that simply act in the same way as your spectacles enabling better focusing and slightly magnifying and keeping in focus what you see in your camera's viewfinder. Essentially this basic eyepiece is just a rubber cup with a lens in it. So I set about making one for myself, and it works, in fact it works so well that I made another one as a spare.
Click link below
Bronx Zoo, The Bronx
2012
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A beautifully classy coin-operated binocular looking out over the African Plains exhibits near the rear of the Bronx Zoo.