Tutorials, Recipes and Patterns
View allAll Photos Tagged Tutorial,
I followed a Julieanne Kost tutorial the other day and somehow I must have missed a step because it wasn't supposed to be quite like this. One day I will start again but in the meantime I thought I'd keep this anyway, I quite liked it.
These are 10 images of mine, severely cropped after applying 2 blur filters.
Someone was asking me lots of questions about mohair and asked for a tutorial on how to actually reroot it and everything.... the ones I recommended they didn't find helpful apparently, so I made one for them.
iamlily, this is your blythe's scalp, it's famous! :P
So Wedge, how can you do yourself and possibly others out of business?
This picture demonstrates what can't be done in normal photography (3D glasses required).
A 3D picture that pops out the screen. Watch the picture full size. Put a chair at about 3m (10 feet) away from your monitor. Sit down and watch the branch grow about 80 cm (3 feet) out of your screen!
This is one of my first digital 3D pictures, made with one camera and a simple plastic slider on a tripod.
TUTORIAL - How to make an anaglyph using Photoshop
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
• Start Photoshop.
• Open the two pictures of your stereo pair.
• Make yourself sure of which is the left and which is the right picture.
• Open the channels palette (menu: Window, Channels). You’ll see the channels RGB, Red, Green and Blue with a small eye in front.
• Activate the LEFT picture (click the title bar).
• Select the red channel in the palette (Ctrl-1). Now only the red channel has the small eye in front. The picture shows the red channel in grayscale.
• Select all (Ctrl-A) and copy to the clipboard (Ctrl-C).
• Activate the RIGHT picture (click the title bar).
• Select the red channel in the palette (Ctrl-1). Again the picture shows the red channel in grayscale.
• Paste the contents of the clipboard (Ctrl-V). What you just did is replacing the red channel of the right image, by the red channel of the left image.
• Click at the gray square left of the RGB channel in the palette, all small eyes switch back on. Important: don’t click at the channel itself, but in the square where the small eye should be.
• Put on your red/cyan 3D-glasses.
• Stroke V and align the picture with the arrow keys.
• Save the picture under a new name.
I know my profile says I am not here to sell tutorials, and I am technically not changing that because it is not for sale, it is purely a community service - So here goes.
Jaap's cellphone photography course - Chapter one.
When photographing wildlife with a cellphone it is a little known but highly effective technique to point the phone in the general direction of the subject.
hehehehe
I made a picture tutorial for creating this image. It was done digitally in Paint Shop Pro X. I made the tutorial for my Smudgepainting group here on Flickr and for all my Digitalnuts friends.
I used a wooden thrift store plaque as a base and added cereal box cardboard details. Coated in gesso, painted with chalk paint, aged a bit with brown wax and added a door knob.
It is a little short, but works ok for Blythe in a diorama.
This tutorial is done in Photoshop CS3, and you need some basic knowlegde to follow it. The numbers are the exact ones I used.
Step by step snapshots at www.soffia.net/tutorial.html
1. I duplicade the layer twise, on one layer I erase out carefully the mountain with soft eraser, opacity 100 flow around 60. (you can also use masks) One layer is just to have the photo as it is.
2. Name the layers ( image01) mountains, clouds and just_in_case_layer.
3. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 8 ~ 0,73 ~ 200
4. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again but this time choose Brightness/Contrast. and put in -12 for brightness and contr. -28 (Image03)
5. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again and choose Hue/Saturation. (Image 04)
take up saturation to 22
6. For now, I´m fairly happy with the mountains, so now I drag the Clouds layer on top of all the layers. (Image 05)
7. Then I merge the mountains with all the adjustment layers by selecting all the layers, and choose merge layers (Image 06)Name the Layer mountains again if it´s called hue/saturation.
8. Now we can work on the clouds, you can turn off the mountains layer by clicking on the eye on the left. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 18 ~ 0,84 ~ 215
9. I want a little more contrast in the big cloud so duplicade the clouds layer, name it cloud-contrast go to Image - Adjustment - Levels. Use 59~ 0,64~ 195. The reason why I choose levels from there is cause I only want it to affect the new cloud layer(Image 07)
10. with the cloud-contrast layer picked, go to Image - Adjustment - Brightness/Contrast and put brightness to +36 and contrast +17
11. I find the cloud too red, so go to Image - Adjustment - hue/saturation, in Edit: choose
Reds and take the saturation down to -42. After that I rease around it so the layer would look like this (Image 08)
12. Let´s go to the Clouds layer again, Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Brightness/Contrast. put in +45 for brightness (Image03)
13. Go to create new fill or adjustment layer (Image 04) and choose Hue/Saturation. In Edit:
Blues hue: -13 sat: -67
Cyans hue: -10 sat: -57 (or tweek the numbers untill you´re happy with the colors......)
15. Merge the layers by selecting Cloud-contrast,clouds and the all the adjustment layers(image 06) (you can also select the layers and hit Ctrl + E )
16. Turn on the Mountains Layer. Flatten image. Then I did some more adjucstment with hue/sat, cyan -9 and -39 then blues -4 and -22 and Yelloes -35. And then I went to levels and did 8 ~ 1,16 ~ 255.
17. Then I put the lomo gradient fill with 40 % opacity on that layer
I did use the clone stamp to erase out a part of the sky, the dark bottom part... :P
And finally I ran it through Neat Image, a software I bought the other day. neatimage.com/
I could probably spend another hour tweeking and tuning. But let´s say this done for now.
1 » foto original;
2 » Selecione o rosto sem selecionar olhos, boca e narinas;
3 » Após selecionar, copie (ctrl+c), cole (ctrl+v) e duplique a camada colada (ctrl+j). Na cama da meio, aplique um desfoque gaussiano (Menu Filtro/Desfoque/Desfoque gaussiano/5,0 OK). Na última camada (a de cima), você vai aplicar uma alta frequencia (Menu Filtro/Outros/Alta Frequencia - high pass/1,5 OK). A imagem ficará cinza, então mude para sobrepor (overlay) e una as camadas. Obs.: Caso precise arrumar alguma coisa que ficou "embaçada demais", vá na camada do desfoque gaussiano e passe uma borracha macia com uma opacidade baixa.
4 » Boca: Selecione a boca e vá em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida. Escolha uma cor que fique boa pra boca e clique em OK. Caso fique borrado, é só usar a borracha macia (sempre usando a borracha macia =))
5 » Como fica a camada =)
6 » Olhos (oba!): Os olhos são que nem a boca. Você seleciona onde você quer a sombra e o lápis. Nesse passo, fiz o lápis e o delineador. Junto à foto tem as camadas. =)
7 » Mesma coisa. Selecione os olhos e pinte com o preenchimento de camada. Caso precise, dê um desfoque gaussiano pra ficar mais realista e tire um pouco da opacidade ou use a borracha, também. Mudei a cor dos olhos, também. Deixei mais viva a cor. É o mesmo passo. =)
8 » Como os olhos ficaram e o blush, que é a mesma coisa. Selecione as maçãs do rosto e vão em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida/Escolha a cor OK e tire a opacidade. Será necessário dar uma desfocada (ctrl+f, caso tenha sido o último filtro que você usou =))
9 » Resultado.
Espero que tenham gostado e que eu tenha ajudado! hehe.
Qualquer dúvida, perguntem! =D
I've got a little good news under the stars here in New Zealand for you all on a rather dreary week! I don't know if you've seen my two recent videos on "Despair" and "Anxiety" - but in one of them I mentioned that a great way to escape from your own crazy-monkey mind is to help other people!
I'm not saying this is a self-congratulatory way, but just because it's kinda cool and maybe it will help others be outward-focused as well! First, if you're bored at home, why not learn photography, eh? I took my best Beginning Photography course, filmed here in New Zealand, and made it TOTALLY FREE - people seem to love it and Stu says we have over $50,000 worth of downloads already - that's awesome and I hope you all are enjoying it.
Link below...
Also, I want to send a shout out to my friends over at Monday.com for helping out with a new information-sharing initiative that's just about to get started here in NZ that should help with the COVID-19 sitch.
Besides all that stuff, I'm gonna make some more videos here in the next several days... people seem interested in these topics: 1) conspiracy theories and why you shouldn't believe them 2) my full death experiences and why I'm not afraid to die 3) what kind of evolved society will emerge after this 4) what the heck I get up to on a daily basis in solo isolation 5) ways to thrive and create in this new paradigm... and more!
I may even make some fun videos with good 'ol Gino. Hey man I have a lot of spare time and I can't play video games ALLLL day!!
store.stuckincustoms.com/collections/tutorials/products/b...
Ever wondered how to build good tudor style walls?
Check out our latest tutorial by Titus V. on brickbuilt.
In this advanced Photoshop tutorial I will show you how to create a nice floating woman in a forest. We will turn the forest from day to night effect in Photoshop and we will mask the sky using Calculations. We will create realistic depth of field using a Depth Map and we’ll paint realistic hair and light effects.
Tutorial here: www.psdbox.com/tutorials/fantasy-photoshop-tutorial-float...
Hey everyone.
Isaac and John asked me to write a small tutorial for my waterfall design to be featured on their awesome site www.brickbuilt.org/.
Check it out here!
This can be done in 2 ways. The Vanishing Point Filter is one way and there are dozens of Tutorials to show you how. But the much simpler way is to put your background and type on 2 layers. Then go to Edit, Perspective Warp. You will see two modes on the top left corner of your screen one says Layout, then other says Warp. Be sure you are on the Text Layer.
With the Layout screen you can make your Panels to go around your text. Be sure you have a straight line on the divider. You can move these anywhere to cover your text. Make another panel for the other side, start it very close to the first panel. When you are done just join the Links to combine them.
Then clip on Warp. Nothing happens. but now when you move the panel links you can line up your type perfectly on the lines.
When you finish if one side didn't line up quite right go back to Perspective Warp and make another Panel and move it.
This is a much simpler way to accomplish the same result.
I create this image in my new video tutorial. It's all about Giants ;)
I shot the background in Dubai and the models in the studio ;)
If you like to see more: tutorial.adriansommeling.com
TUTORIAL ♥♥
A lot of people asked me how special shaped bokehs are done. I decided to put together a tutorial and explain things in details.
This is a single shot out of the camera! Nothing was added in Photoshop.
Special thanks to Tony who helped me with the picture formatting!
#28
Step 1 - Taking the Image
When I first started off using my DSLR, I knew diddly squat about camera settings, auto-bracketing, manual mode etc...
Experimenting with different settings, looking at various tips and tutorials have improved my knowledge vastly on this.
So here we go then…Firstly there are two main ways to create the source images needed for HDR.
- Autobracketing
- One raw image
Autobracketing:
Most DSLR camera’s have the ability to bracket multiple exposures. This is simply a way to tell the camera to take several shots in quick succession, each at different exposures. For example, in this image a -2, 0, +2 setting was used to take three shots.
When deciding on how many auto-bracketing exposures to use, you will need to consider the contrast range of the scene. If there is a higher contrast range, consider using a wider bracket setting.
Now this may not be possible on some cameras. My own Canon 400D only has the ability to bracket 3 shots, but some cameras are able to go as high as nine. Normally 3 exposures are suffice for me when shooting in interior locations, such as churches and other buildings.
When I do need more than 3 exposures, I normally take auto-bracketing off in Aperture Priority mode and fire out 5 or more shots by manually changing the shutter speed each time.
One RAW image:
The other way to produce the 3 shots needed is to take 1 photo and adjust it in a RAW editor such as Lightroom, Aperture or any other one you may use.
The main advantage with this is that you can produce a HDR shot with moving subjects such as cars and people. The downside from experience is that if an image contains dark shadows, the exposure adjusting followed by the HDR process has a tendency to create a lot of noise. The other thing that is debated quite often is that by taking 1 raw image, it doesn’t truly capture the full dynamic data range of a scene.
Camera Settings
-Shoot in RAW – it allows you to capture more dynamic range data than using JPEGs.
-Use a tripod. In some places this can be difficult, especially in churches. Alternatively, try and find some kind of ledge, bench, stack of books or take up an awkward stance and take the image handheld.
-Use Aperture Priority mode on your camera. As you will be combining several images into one, you don’t want your Depth of Field (DOF) to change between shots, as the final image will appear all out of focus.
-Keep the ISO setting to the minimum. The higher the ISO setting, the more noise it will generate. I try to keep mine at 100 whenever I can.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image and following the high resolution link from there.
** Update: I have loaded the 3 original hi-res exposures for you guys/gals to experiment with. Click on them below and then save. Have fun and it will be great to see what you can come up with.
*** Update 2 - Be sure to check out my latest tutorial which focuses more on the post processing techniques in Photoshop. You can find that tutorial here.
Oi meninas, final do ano a gente tem aquele monte de eventos né? É festinha disso, encerramento daquilo, coquetel, amigo secreto, festa de fim de ano da empresa... pensando nisso resolvi hj fazer uma make não muito cheguei, mas bem bonita pra esses tipos de evento.
Fotografei o passo a passo, mas tô com uma preguiça enorme de editar, vcs perdoam???? rs rs rs
O que usei:
- Fixador de Sombra Contém 1G
- Sombra Pérola do trio Hippie Chic NYX
- Sombra 06 Duda Molinos
- Sombra Marrom Cintilante Contém 1G
- Iluminador Sun Light Nivea
- Jumbo Eyeshadow cor Gold NYX
- Rímel Ashtoning AVON
Depois eu aviso quando postar o tutorial tá?
As promised, here is the tutorial for my littler R0-XI Droid. I'd love to see your versions of it, so feel free to tag me in your post, if you use the design.
This tutorial explains how I built the 45° roof of my Riften Watchtower, and also shows the method I used to make the plank siding underneath the roof-line.
Check it out on brickbuilt.
Gostaria do tutorial destes box, para passar para uma amiga muito querida Lelê Ceschini, se alguém tiver, agradeço!
bjos
I was hoping to put this tutorial up a while ago, but never got the chance to complete it until now. I received a lot of requests from people who wanted to know the workflow on the Times Square image(below). It’s fairly similar to my previous tutorial (the first few stages relating to the camera setup and Photomatix processing are pretty much the same), although this one concentrates more on the post processing in Adobe Photoshop.
If anyone wants to practice with the original images, let me know and I’ll upload them. You can see my original HDR tutorial here.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image which will take you through to the larger image.
The tutorial can also be found over on my blog http://blog.sandmania.co.uk.
This is the second tutorial geared around the frame warping and a little more on shadowing using PS CS2. Also see below for the first tutorial on creating a OOB as well. Please let me know of any errors or if you have questions here.
TUTORIAL - FIRESTORM
TURN OFF AO
1. www.flickr.com/photos/valenska/50866330231/in/pool-poseus...
2. www.flickr.com/photos/147240527@N03/51052457858/in/pool-p...
I've been tinkering with this idea for getting sort of a muted color effect that's sorta neat. It also looks pretty good on portraits. Here's what I did. LARGE
1. having the layers and channels pallet side by side (for ease of use) first command/ctrl + click on the RGB layers in the channels pallet.
2. Add a new blank layer. Hit "d" on the keyboard to get DEFAULT COLORS and then hit command/ctrl + delete/backspace (mac/windows).
3. Put that layer in "Screen" blending mode and on the keyboard do command/ctrl + d to deselect (Select > deselect).
4. Hide Layer 1 by clicking on the little eye in the layers pallet to the left of that layer's icon.
5. Click on the background layer and invert it...... command/ctrl + i
6. command/ctrl + click on the RGB layer in the Channels pallet.
7. Deselect.... command/ctrl + d
8. Invert the background layer back to positive (command/ctrl + i )
9. Click on Layer 1 and then CLICK ON THE ADD NEW LAYER BUTTON in the Layer's Pallet.
10. Reselect your last selection..... command/ctrl + shift + d
11. OK fill that layer with the foreground color, which should be black, ..... option/alt + delete/backspace
12. Put that layer in "Multiply" blending mode (using the Layers Pallet menu) and deselect (command/ctrl + d)
13. Add a hue/saturation adjustment layer and put saturation at +25 (to the right using saturation slider).
If you light this effect you can easily make and action of this by adding a new action before you do these steps and then clicking to close action in the actions pallet after you're done.
NEW VIDEO! iPhone Photography Tutorial: Lippen - Surreal Portrait #04 #video
Check link on my Instagram profile for my channel. OR here’s for direct link to video: youtu.be/Ok9e_PtsUGU
Enjoy!
#surreal #icolorama #superimpose #lensdistortions #mextures #iphoneart #mobileart #iphoneonly
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
#instagram #mobileartistry #shotaward #artsick #fineartphg #expofilm #enter_imagination #graphicroozane #thecreativers #manipulationteam #moodcommunity #launchdsigns #milliondollarvisuals #imaginativeuniverse
#iphoneography #iphone #photography
The latest tutorial on Brickbuilt shows how to build slanted rockwork, like I used in my Risky Endeavor creation.
These are the tutorials I managed to put together during 2018. Not that many, but still a number of them. Most of them were nature themed, and about half of them were a result of my Element Experimentation builds.
Making tutorials is a rather different experience as compared to normal building. It takes a great deal of time and effort to put a tutorial together, compared to making regular builds. You have to take many pictures, think through the flow of the technique and write good descriptive texts for each picture. Tutorials also play out differently on different platforms, so often you have to create multiple versions of the tutorial to fit the platforms you post on.
Also, for me, pretty much all tutorials I make are of techniques I've already showcased in builds before, so tutorials doesn't bring anything new to the table - it just shows how a previously used technique is made.
These two things combined makes tutorial making more of a chore than fun, to be honest. It's a lot of work and it doesn't result in a nice new build. So why do it?
I have personally learned loads from tutorials made by others, and so I have reaped the benefits of their hard work with very little effort on my side. So, making tutorials of your techniques is a way of contributing back to the LEGO community. It may not be the most fun, or get you the most likes or comments, but it's still a satisfying experience knowing that you have given something back.
And of course it puts a smile on your face when you see people starting to use your techniques in their own builds :) I have noticed that both my spruce techniques are seeing quite some use these days, so that's something I'm really happy about :)
Image created for a tutorial.... inspired by the amazing James White... signalnoise.com
Check the tutorial out at abduzeedo.com/really-cool-eclipse-effect-photoshop
If you have ever struggled with making a round roof, you'll definitely want to check out this tutorial by Cozei on brickbuilt.
Picture II
For those who did not see the first picture...
This is going to be my first visual tutorial about consciousness and awareness.
It is very easy because the pictures will speak for themselves.
Without words you will understand, what it all means.
Maybe you discover something very important for yourself... :-)))
If you like, ask yourself what you see and how you see.
Next picture tomorrow.
HKD
This is a visual of one way to improve dark eyes. There are several other things you can do including using a hue/sat adjustment layer combined with it's mask to eliminate color in the whites of the eyes. It's not shown here. LARGE IN SEPARATE WINDOW