View allAll Photos Tagged Simplify3D
After a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, my husband requested a 3D Print of a Buck Rogers Disintegrator Gun. As luck would have it, there was already a model on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:938752
The modeler recommended supports, but to save on printing time, material, and to reduce scarring and blemishes on the finish, I used Simplify3D to split the model in two halves.
More details on my 3D Printing Blog at www.tgaw.com AND on my brand new YouTube Channel at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCkKmkZGDoBtiQue8WSh-TfA
Noting my Slic3r prints tended to do better in Overhangs and Bridges than my Simplify3d prints, I made an effort to scrunitize and match up the settings (back in May).
Please don't take these setting changes as conclusive. I'm just documenting my experiments and why.
Noting my Slic3r prints tended to do better in Overhangs and Bridges than my Simplify3d prints, I made an effort to scrunitize and match up the settings (back in May).
Please don't take these setting changes as conclusive. I'm just documenting my experiments and why.
Noting my Slic3r prints tended to do better in Overhangs and Bridges than my Simplify3d prints, I made an effort to scrunitize and match up the settings (back in May).
Please don't take these setting changes as conclusive. I'm just documenting my experiments and why.
After a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, my husband requested a 3D Print of a Buck Rogers Disintegrator Gun. As luck would have it, there was already a model on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:938752
The modeler recommended supports, but to save on printing time, material, and to reduce scarring and blemishes on the finish, I used Simplify3D to split the model in two halves.
More details on my 3D Printing Blog at www.tgaw.com AND on my brand new YouTube Channel at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCkKmkZGDoBtiQue8WSh-TfA
Noting my Slic3r prints tended to do better in Overhangs and Bridges than my Simplify3d prints, I made an effort to scrunitize and match up the settings (back in May).
Please don't take these setting changes as conclusive. I'm just documenting my experiments and why.
After a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, my husband requested a 3D Print of a Buck Rogers Disintegrator Gun. As luck would have it, there was already a model on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:938752
The modeler recommended supports, but to save on printing time, material, and to reduce scarring and blemishes on the finish, I used Simplify3D to split the model in two halves.
More details on my 3D Printing Blog at www.tgaw.com AND on my brand new YouTube Channel at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCkKmkZGDoBtiQue8WSh-TfA
After a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, my husband requested a 3D Print of a Buck Rogers Disintegrator Gun. As luck would have it, there was already a model on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:938752
The modeler recommended supports, but to save on printing time, material, and to reduce scarring and blemishes on the finish, I used Simplify3D to split the model in two halves.
More details on my 3D Printing Blog at www.tgaw.com AND on my brand new YouTube Channel at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCkKmkZGDoBtiQue8WSh-TfA
Noting my Slic3r prints tended to do better in Overhangs and Bridges than my Simplify3d prints, I made an effort to scrunitize and match up the settings (back in May).
Please don't take these setting changes as conclusive. I'm just documenting my experiments and why.
Noting my Slic3r prints tended to do better in Overhangs and Bridges than my Simplify3d prints, I made an effort to scrunitize and match up the settings (back in May).
Please don't take these setting changes as conclusive. I'm just documenting my experiments and why.
After a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, my husband requested a 3D Print of a Buck Rogers Disintegrator Gun. As luck would have it, there was already a model on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:938752
The modeler recommended supports, but to save on printing time, material, and to reduce scarring and blemishes on the finish, I used Simplify3D to split the model in two halves.
More details on my 3D Printing Blog at www.tgaw.com AND on my brand new YouTube Channel at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCkKmkZGDoBtiQue8WSh-TfA
After a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, my husband requested a 3D Print of a Buck Rogers Disintegrator Gun. As luck would have it, there was already a model on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:938752
The modeler recommended supports, but to save on printing time, material, and to reduce scarring and blemishes on the finish, I used Simplify3D to split the model in two halves.
More details on my 3D Printing Blog at www.tgaw.com AND on my brand new YouTube Channel at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCkKmkZGDoBtiQue8WSh-TfA
Noting my Slic3r prints tended to do better in Overhangs and Bridges than my Simplify3d prints, I made an effort to scrunitize and match up the settings (back in May).
Please don't take these setting changes as conclusive. I'm just documenting my experiments and why.
Noting my Slic3r prints tended to do better in Overhangs and Bridges than my Simplify3d prints, I made an effort to scrunitize and match up the settings (back in May).
Please don't take these setting changes as conclusive. I'm just documenting my experiments and why.
After a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, my husband requested a 3D Print of a Buck Rogers Disintegrator Gun. As luck would have it, there was already a model on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:938752
The modeler recommended supports, but to save on printing time, material, and to reduce scarring and blemishes on the finish, I used Simplify3D to split the model in two halves.
More details on my 3D Printing Blog at www.tgaw.com AND on my brand new YouTube Channel at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCkKmkZGDoBtiQue8WSh-TfA
After a visit to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, my husband requested a 3D Print of a Buck Rogers Disintegrator Gun. As luck would have it, there was already a model on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:938752
The modeler recommended supports, but to save on printing time, material, and to reduce scarring and blemishes on the finish, I used Simplify3D to split the model in two halves.
More details on my 3D Printing Blog at www.tgaw.com AND on my brand new YouTube Channel at: www.youtube.com/channel/UCkKmkZGDoBtiQue8WSh-TfA
The Roof for the Main Tower of Hogwarts is one of the single largest things I've ever printed. The PLA is still raw, and when lit from the inside, gives an amazing glow. The Hexagonal Infill is beautifully visible, as well as all the shingles and tiny dormers.
The Original 3d Printed/CNC'd Hogwarts Model. Created for Discovery Place's Wizarding World Science on the Rocks Event in January 2017. With a person for Scale!
To make sure my bridge settings are taking effect where I want them I temporarily set the Bridge Speed to something super high like 600%. That way in the preview they show up as red and orange. (Then I change it back to something reasonable).
3D printed dragon designed by Martin Nebelong.
Sliced with Simplify3D.
Printed on MakerGear M3-ID.
PLA filament and BVOH for support.
0.35mm nozzles for both extruders.
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Temperature: 215 C (For both extruders. Probably should have the PLA hotter because it failed to stick well under the chin. Part of it came off, but it actually recovered quite well and printed the rest of the head just fine, so I repaired it by removing the lower piece and reattaching with superglue gel.)
Filament is "Gold Silk" available here: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2/