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Looking through the 55-300mm VR Nikkor on a D90. You can see the AF points and focusing grid, while also note the amount of light lost by the TTL viewfinder assembly with the f/5.6 lens.
Found this little cutie in a second hand shop in The hague. It takes 126 film and that is hard to get. Costs: 2 euro.
One of my favourite toys. why? coz i get to practice my feet wriggling and kicking. and it literally dislodge itself if i tried hard enough.the nurse would come whenever they see a flatline on the monitor as this sensor came off.
gonna miss playing with it soon
After reading this thread, I decided to go see how much dust was on my Digital Rebel XT's sensor.
Quite a bit. I'm betting it's all pollen.
The MCA Cat III Workboat, owned by Aspect Land & Hydrographic Surveys Ltd, of Ayrshire.
The 'Marine Sensor' is road towable, and with a small forward cabin, can deploy from a slipway or boat hoist / crane and able to operate a wide variety of sensors.
Her hulls and catamaran configuration lend a fast transit speed and give good directional stability resulting in high quality survey data.
MCA Cat III Workboat
Length 6.9m
Beam 2.5m
Draught 0.3m
Trying to determine which of the 2 body height sensors on the Subaru have gone futt - the likely cause of the a warning from the headlight levelling system.
A resistance check yielded nothing useful, so I had to cut in to the wiring, power up the sensors to check the feedback voltages. This showed that the front senor is defective, so a step forward. Replacement sensors are available - dodgy new ones from China, used ones from Ebay or eye wateringly expensive new ones from specialist suppliers. I went for the middle option.
This is the first populated board of my wireless temperature/humidity sensors. This board is populated with a 2.4 GHz radio but most will have 433 MHz radios. The good thing about using Anaren AIR series is they are mostly footprint compatible. The diode in series with the battery is giving me problems but I can always just use 0R jumpers if it can't be fixed.
I don't know why I never noticed this before, but my pitch calculations are way off. They're delayed by a good couple of seconds and what's worse, they reverse for the first second. This means that when it pitches forward, the copter actually thinks it's pitching backwards (and then it flips).
Roll is fine, making it even more confusing. It's the same sensors and math, just different axis.
The IMU data is what I actually use -- it's a combination of the gyro and accel data.
A single built in sensor is in the middle of the box. It is behind the small hole. The other hole is a jack for a plug in dual sensor module.
This is a change from the earlier pictures I posted. I have decided that the only way to properly test 35mm SLR film planes is with dual sensors spaced appropriately.
For mounting the sensor board into a tubular enclosure, this two-part "shuttle" was cut from a steel can, and screwed to the board's mounting holes.
After I clean my sensor with a cleaning kit, I go outside and find a cloud-less part of sky and shoot it with a small aperture opening, slightly underexposed. If you see no dark smudges your cleaning was successful.
IMG_9362
My Baroesque Barometric Skirt reflects environmental data, plus my personal temperature - it's a reflection of the self within the bigger picture. What I mean by this is that how I pass through and interact with the ambient environment interests me. To visualise this passage I have created a skirt that uses sensors to glean environmental data in the form of a barometric sensor board, its data more commonly familiar to those who track and predict weather. To the viewer of the skirt, they will see colours changing in real time on four rays of RGB strip, one for each sensor reading.
This is how I’ve put together the electronics inside the skirt: the aforementioned barometric sensor board protrudes from the skirt and gleans the ambient temperature ( Celcius C) around it, the other sensors on the board collect data and via algorithms in the code work out the altitude (meters m) and pressure (Pascal Pa). I’ve used a Shrimp kit, which is similar to the Arduino Uno, that comes as a bag of components and soldered it onto stripboard. Another temperature sensor, measuring my temperature sits on this stripboard, Four lengths of RGB LED strip radiate from the Shrimp circuit and both the stripboard circuit and the RGB LED strip are sewn onto what I call an ‘apron’, which sits under the skirt and is detachable for washing purposes and also as I like to fashion my electronic circuits as interesting pieces to be viewed in their own right.
The code takes the readings from the sensors and runs an algorithm firstly to convert the data into Celcius, meters or Pascals, and then runs another to mix the colours appearing on each corresponding RGB LED strip. There are 7 colours I’ve set to pass through, the lowest reading being blue, followed by cyan, white, green, yellow, magenta and finally red for the highest reading in each sensor reading data band.
It took a months to create the skirt as there was so many iterations between experimenting with circuits around how to make my idea come to life and creating the skirt, testing paint on fabric, choosing a visual metaphor and style of the skirt, then making the skirt. Next finalising choice of the electronics, coding, prototyping, then transferring the circuit to stripboard. Finally soldering everything together and then debugging, testing, making changes to the code, before eventually putting the skirt and the electronics together.
The Baroesque Skirt’s weather artwork was inspired by the characters Amaterasu & Kabegami from the game Okami.
Read more about the Baroesque Skirt: rainycatz.wordpress.com/2012/10/22/baroesque-barometric-s...