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Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts
Via Alberto Cadlolo 101
00136 Rome, Italy
*** In the Beginning ***
In 1954 Fred Joyce, the publicity Director for Hilton Hotels Corporation, issued the following press release:
"The Societa Generale Immobiliare (Real Estate), in cooperation with Hilton Hotels International have formed the company to be known as Italo American Nuovo Alberghi (New Hotel) which will have an eventual capitalizaiton of some $3 million. The hotel will be known as the Albergo dei Cavalieri Hilton and will cost approximately $7 million. Emilio Pifferi, a famous Italian architect is presently consulting in Rome with John W. Houser, executive vice president of Hilton Hotels International regarding the design and planning for the new hotel. It is expected that Rome's municipal government will build a new expressway from the heart of the city to the hotel."
Houser was a former Marine intelligence officer who became a director at Hilton Hotels International. Houser had negotiated with the pro-Batista Cuban faction for the casino in the Havana Hilton which opened in 1958 and nationalized in 1960.
The hotel would be owned by the Rome real estate Sociata General Immobiliare (The General Company of Real Estate). At that time the Vatican was the largest shareholder in Sociata General Immobiliare. The proposed name of the hotel was Albergo Dei Cavalieri Hilton (The hotel of knights Hilton). Societa General Immobiliare is known to have the Vatican among its stockholders. It has also built the Watergate Complex in Washington, D.C. The name Cavalieri pays tribute to the riders or knights who for centuries rode the path known as Via Francigene from Canterbury in England through France and on to Rome. Travellers used to rest on the hill of Monte Mario.
Conrad Hilton made a trip in 1955 to work with Italian concerns for the construction of the hotel. Hilton's plans were fought by the Left-wing parties in the Rome Municipal Council. The Communists (as Left-wingers were known then) contended the proposed Hilton Hotel was ugly and would ruin the sky line of Monte Mario. A proposal for a smaller, lower hotel was finally approved in 1959. Opposition to the hotel, led by Antonio Cederna, one of the founders of Italian Nostra, began immediately referring to the hotel site as a "wound" in the green of Monte Mario. The site of the hotel was expected to be a public green such as on the Janiculum Hill, the second tallest hill in Rome with Monte Mario the tallest. The Italian Nostra organisation was founded in 1955 with the specific aim of opposing the projected demolition of part of the city’s historic centre. The hotel is located in the residential area of Monte Mario, Rome’s highest hill. The Rome Cavalieri is 3 km from the Vatican and 5 km from the historic city centre and is nestled in a 15-acre private Mediterranean park, overlooking the Eternal City.
On September 13, 1960 Conrad Hilton watched as the cornerstone of a six-story hotel bearing his name was laid on Monte Mario. Designed by Ugo Luccichenti (1898 - 1976), Emilio Pifferi and Alberto Ressa the hotel was under construction from 1960 -1963.
*** Cavalieri Hilton Hotel opened in June 1963 ***
The hotel has 400 rooms and suites and sits high atop Monte Mario northwest of Rome. It has a panoramic view of almost the entire city. The italian architectural team of Ugo Luccichenti, Emillio Pisseri and Alberto Rossa designed the 8 story hotel. An opposing planner and architect, Italo Insolera, was quoted "the hotel was even worse in reality than one would expect." Others say the hotel belongs in Miami Beach. In the hotel lobby's atrium, the spiral fountain was designed by Franco Albini (1905/77) and Franca Helg (1920/89).
When opened in 1963 the building was an admirable example of modular architecture, resulting in a style which is both clean-lined and functional. The hotel resembled a Mediterranean vacation village, including olympic size swimming pool, tennis courts and a 7 acre park filled with pines, cyprus, olive pal and lemon trees. The hotel's original restaurants were the roof terrace restaurant night club La Pergolia with a cosmopolitan cuisine with specialties from around the world. At the garden level is a night club/restaurant known as L'Ellisse with French cuisine. La Belle Arti specialized in Italian food. The coffee shop (note the lower case) served Italian and American food with prices from $1.25 to $2.25. The coffee shop had an American style soda fountain and two pizza ovens. The hotel's massive ballroom, Salone dei Cavalieri, could seat 1,600. The hotels opening rates were $10.50 for a single to $74.00 for a two room suite. There was a 18% service charge and a 3% government tax. The ballroom was the largest space without column support at that time in Italy. Italians called it the most beautiful hotel in Rome "l'albergo più bello di Roma".
In 2001 the Rome Cavalieri Hilton, started a four-year, $45-million renovation designed to enhance the guest experience across all touchpoints of the resort. Each of the 370 guestrooms were modernized and refurbished, welcoming travelers with opulent new amenities and a higher level of convenience and connectivity. Also new is a collection of 25 individually designed and decorated suites. The property received extensive landscaping attention, the lobby received a face-lift, new fitness offerings were added and meeting space upgraded.
The Rome Cavalieri Hilton lobby received new reception and concierge desks by Italian architect Gaetano Castelli which feature surfaces made of Sodalite, a rare Brazilian semi-precious stone dramatically shaded in blue, gray and green. This stone is believed to facilitate communication between people, stimulate creativity and soothe and relax the soul. Antique multi-chrome marble panels, originally decorative features of an aristocratic southern Italian palazzo, adorn the center of each desk, encased at the sides by contemporary curved blue crystal. Also displayed in the lobby are some rare Old Master paintings, furniture, tapestries and artifacts dating from the 17th and 18th centuries.
In 2002 the Rome Cavalieri Hilton had 372 rooms. A standard double was US $474, Continental breakfast is US $29. The use of the fitness center was US $28; a massage, US $80. Dinner at La Pergola for two with wine, about US $320.
In 2008 the hotel was rebranded from "just a Hilton" to Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts. Guestrooms were refurbished in 2011. The Imperial La Pergola is Rome’s only 3 star Michelin rooftop restaurant.
*** Hotel Art Collection ***
The Rome Cavalieri possibly has the world’s most prestigious art collection housed within a hotel worldwide. Among the over one thousand works of art kept in the hotel:
Paintings
"Ulysses discovering Achilles among the daughters of Nicomedes" by G.B. Tiepolo (1696/1770)
"Judgement of Paris" by Giuseppe Bazzani (1690/1769)
"Landscape with Hermit" by Alessandro Magnasco (1667/1749)
"Flora" by Carlo Cignani (1628/1719) a pupil of Francesco Albani
"Arrival of the Bucintoro in St. Mark's Square" by Josef Heintz the Younger (about 1600/78)
"Country landscape with bridge" by Giuseppe Zaïs (1709/84) artist from Belluno who died in poverty, exponent of the Arcadian school
"Dollar Sign" by Andy Warhol (1928/87)
Sculptures
Bronze statue "Boy with Dog" by Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770/1844)
Marble sculpture "The Kiss" by Antonio Tantardini (1829/79)
*** General Managers ***
Franz Schutzman (1915-2001) was the opening general manager. He served from 1962-1964. Prior to the Rome Cavalieri Hilton he was the Manager Raffles Hotel, Singapore, 1950-1959 and general manager Nile Hotel, Cairo, 1960-1961. From Rome Schutzman went on to general manager Hyatt Regency Toronto, Ontario, 1971-1974. Vice president, general manager United Nations Plaza Hotel, New York City, 1974-1976 and general manager The Manila Hotel, 1976-1987.
It is said Franz Schutzman concocted the popular cocktail, the Singapore Sling, while at the Raffles Hotel. Paul Schreiber was the opening Food and Beverage Manager, previously he was at the Hilton Hawaiian Village. In 1964 Berne Hal-Mann and Group played for seven months in the La Pergola - they were the house band at the Garden Bar at the Hilton Hawaiian Village for many years.
From 1964 to 1967 Gabor Olah De Garab (1924-2014) was the general manager. He also managed the Watergate Hotel in Washington DC for 18 years from 1967 to 1985. Gabor Olah de Garab was born in Paszto, Hungary on August 8, 1924. After studying hotel management at the world-renowned Ecole Hoteliere in Lausanne, Switzerland, he held managerial positions at the Gallia Excelsior in Milan, the Hotel Splendido in Portofino and the Cavalieri Rome Hilton. In 1967, at the request of Giuseppe Cecchi, one of Washington, DC's foremost real estate developers and then project manager for the Watergate complex development, Olah assumed leadership of the Watergate Hotel that year and served as its General Manager for 18 years.
When Hilton took over the Kaiser Hawaiian Village in 1961 it appointed Olaf S. Bonde as Executive Assistan Manager. German born Bonde came to the U.S. in 1952 and worked for the Statler hotel chain until it was purchased by Hilton. He arrived in Hawaii from the Berlin Hilton which he helped to open. Bonde has a Bachelor of Science in Hotel Administration, Heidelberg University, Germany, 1948. Bonde went on to be the general manager Tokyo Hilton, 1963-1965, and the Cavalieri Hilton-Rome from 1965-1972. He was appointed Area director, vice president Hilton International (central Europe, eastern Mediterranean), officed in Rome from 1973-1988. Currently semi-retired running Bonde Consulting.
Serge Ethuin was the Cavalieri general manager from 2008 thru 2014. Serge graduated in 1982 from the Ecole Hôtelière in Strasbourg, and began his career in 1983 working for the Hilton Group as a receptionist at Hilton Paris, Strasbourg Hilton and the Orly Hilton. In 1997, he was appointed general manager of the Hilton Madagascar and followed by Hilton Rome Airport and Hilton Arc de Triomphe. In 2008 he moved to head the Rome Cavalieri Hilton, which became the first European hotel to integrate the prestigious Waldorf-Astoria Collection. Serge Ethuin inspired a new dynamic through the three Michelin Star restaurant La Pergola, the Grand Spa Club, the hotel's unique Art collection. In 2011, he was awarded “Best General Manager” by Waldorf Astoria Worldwide. After 30 years within the Hilton Group, Serge Ethuin moved on to managed the Royal Monceau Raffles Paris and most recently as General Manager of the Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo.
In 2014 Alessandro Maurizio Cabella was appointed general manager of the Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts. He previously served as general manager at Hilton Molino Stucky Venice, the Hilton Vilamoura As Cascatas Golf Resort & Spa in Portugal and Hotel Mirabeau - Société des Bains de Mer Monte Carlo in Monaco.
It seems the best chef in Rome is German. Heinz Beck has presided over Pergola, the panoramic restaurant at the Rome Cavalieri Hilton, since 1994. The dining room tables are arrayed around the picture windows overlooking the city. Rare tapestries, paintings, sculptures, and blown glass give the restaurant an atmosphere of excellence. Rated 3 stars in the Michelin guide, La Pergola is routinely voted the best in Rome. The wine cellar is vast: an array of rooms containing 65,000 bottles of wine, with 3,500 different labels offered on the list. The 7 course tasting menu here was €210, with a full a la carte choice as an alternative. Heinz Beck now has restaurants in Portugal, Dubai, London (Apsleys) and Tokyo.
Compiled by Dick Johnson, May 2017
Standing in the heart of Rome, the Colosseum remains a timeless symbol of ancient grandeur and history.
Rome is the Eternal City.
One of the most beautiful city that I'd ever see.
And these photos tries to show all the unforgetable places that i visited.
Italy, officially the Italian Republic, is a country in Southern and Western Europe. It consists of a peninsula that extends into the Mediterranean Sea, with the Alps on its northern land border, as well as nearly 800 islands, notably Sicily and Sardinia. Italy shares land borders with France to the west; Switzerland and Austria to the north; Slovenia to the east; and the two enclaves of Vatican City and San Marino. It is the tenth-largest country in Europe by area, covering 301,340 km2 (116,350 sq mi), and the third-most populous member state of the European Union, with nearly 59 million inhabitants. Italy's capital and largest city is Rome; other major cities include Milan, Naples, Turin, Palermo, Bologna, Florence, Genoa, and Venice.
The history of Italy goes back to numerous Italic peoples—notably including the ancient Romans, who conquered the Mediterranean world during the Roman Republic and ruled it for centuries during the Roman Empire. With the spread of Christianity, Rome became the seat of the Catholic Church and the Papacy. Barbarian invasions and other factors led to the decline and fall of the Western Roman Empire between late antiquity and the Early Middle Ages. By the 11th century, Italian city-states and maritime republics expanded, bringing renewed prosperity through commerce and laying the groundwork for modern capitalism. The Italian Renaissance flourished during the 15th and 16th centuries and spread to the rest of Europe. Italian explorers discovered new routes to the Far East and the New World, contributing significantly to the Age of Discovery.
After centuries of political and territorial divisions, Italy was almost entirely unified in 1861, following wars of independence and the Expedition of the Thousand, establishing the Kingdom of Italy. From the late 19th to the early 20th century, Italy industrialised—mainly in the north—and acquired a colonial empire, while the south remained largely impoverished, fueling a large immigrant diaspora to the Americas. From 1915 to 1918, Italy took part in World War I with the Entente against the Central Powers. In 1922, the Italian fascist dictatorship was established. During World War II, Italy was first part of the Axis until an armistice with the Allied powers (1940–1943), then a co-belligerent of the Allies during the Italian resistance and the liberation of Italy (1943–1945). Following the war, the monarchy was replaced by a republic and the country enjoyed a strong recovery.
A developed country with an advanced economy, Italy has the eighth-largest nominal GDP in the world, the second-largest manufacturing sector in Europe, and plays a significant role in regional and—to a lesser extent—global economic, military, cultural, and political affairs. Italy is a founding and leading member of the European Union and the Council of Europe, and is part of numerous other international organizations and forums. As a cultural superpower, Italy has long been a renowned global centre of art, music, literature, cuisine, fashion, science and technology, and the source of multiple inventions and discoveries. It has the highest number of World Heritage Sites (60) and is the fourth-most visited country in the world.
Rome wasn't built in a day and you'll need much more than a day to take in this timeless city. The city is a real-life collage of piazzas, open-air markets, and astonishing historic sites.
Rome is the capital of Italy and the largest and most populous city in the country. It covers an area of 1,285 square kilometres and has nearly 3 million residents.
Most Visited Tourist Attractions In Rome: The Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Roman Forum, Spanish steps, Piazza del Campidoglio, Castel Sant’Angelo, Vatican, St. Peter’s Basilica, Colosseum, piazza Venezia, piazza Navona, piazza Barberini, piazza della Rotonda, piazza della Minerva ,piazza del Popolo etc.
Rome is the capital city and most populated comune (municipality) of Italy. It is also the administrative centre of the Lazio region and of the Metropolitan City of Rome. A special comune named Roma Capitale with 2,746,984 residents in 1,287.36 km2 (497.1 sq mi), Rome is the third most populous city in the European Union by population within city limits. The Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, with a population of 4,223,885 residents, is the most populous metropolitan city in Italy. Its metropolitan area is the third-most populous within Italy. Rome is located in the central-western portion of the Italian Peninsula, within Lazio (Latium), along the shores of the Tiber Valley. Vatican City (the smallest country in the world and headquarters of the worldwide Catholic Church under the governance of the Holy See) is an independent country inside the city boundaries of Rome, the only existing example of a country within a city. Rome is often referred to as the City of Seven Hills due to its geography, and also as the "Eternal City". Rome is generally considered to be one of the cradles of Western civilization and Western Christian culture, and the centre of the Catholic Church.
So here we are, on the road again, and I hadn't sorted out the Sony A6000 to Snapseed interfaces.
I shoot RAW and my image transfers from this trip look meh. After 4 weeks it finally occurred to me to look at the file size. Lo and behold, thumbnail jpgs were transferred. Ugh.
This is why my cellphone images look sharp on Flickr and the A6000 images do not.
I tested shooting RAW + JPG and the good, full Rez JPG does transfer. Lesson learned.
Next thing is image processing.
I read about how Norman Seeff used to print high contrast works with a twist. He used a black stocking between the enlarger lens and paper to give a interesting softness to some of his images.
He wasn't by any means the only one to do this.
When I worked at Samy Cameras photo lab on Sunset Blvd in Hollyweird we used to do this at client request. It was really no big deal.
What was a bigger deal was our use of Agfa Portriga Rapid 111 Glossy paper. It gave a gorgeous deep walnut brown tone. We used this for may of the gallery shows we printed for various then famous photographers.
Taking the black stocking idea and borrowing tones from Portriga Rapid, it turns out, expresses pretty well how I feel about Rome.
So, here is a series of images done in an old, outdated, likely not very hip manner.
La construction du plus grand amphithéâtre de Rome débute en 72 ap. J.C. sur la demande de l'Empereur Vespasien. Ses deux fils, Titus et Domitien poursuivent sa construction qui s'achève en l'an 82. L’édifice s'appelle alors amphithéâtre Flavien, du nom de la dynastie de ces empereurs. Le nom de Colisée n'apparaît qu'au Moyen Age, en référence à la gigantesque statue de Néron de 35 mètres (appelée colosse) situé à côté de l'amphithéâtre. Avec ses 187 mètres de long, 155 mètres de large et 50 mètres de hauteur, le Colisée pouvait probablement accueillir 50 000 spectateurs avides de spectacles tels que les venationes (combats d'animaux sauvages), les munera (combats de gladiateurs) et autres spectacles publics. Pour améliorer le confort, le Colisée était équipé de 70 fontaines à eau et des marchands de nourriture passaient pendant les spectacles. Il est resté en service pendant près de 500 ans, les derniers jeux se prolongeant jusqu'au VIe siècle. Pour l'inauguration du Colisée, Titus donna une naumachie dans le Colisée transformé en bassin reconstituant la bataille navale de Corinthe contre Corcyre. Le bâtiment a finalement cessé d'être utilisé au cours du haut Moyen Âge. Il a plus tard été réutilisé pour des usages variés tels que des habitations, des ateliers d'artisans, le siège d'un ordre religieux, une forteresse, une carrière et un sanctuaire catholique chrétien.
En forme d’œuf, le Colisée présente 4 étages. Les trois premiers sont portés par des colonnes des différents ordres : Dorique (Rez-de-chaussée), Ionique (Premier étage) et Corinthien (Second étage). L'utilisation de ces trois styles montrent les évolutions artistiques connues durant l'antiquité. Cette succession d'arcades n'existent que sur les trois premiers niveaux, le quatrième, postérieur, est un mur plein (une pièce d'architecture que l'on appelle "attique") percé de petites fenêtres rectangulaires au rythme d'une arcade sur deux. L'attique servait à exposer de grands boucliers décoratifs, un peu comme un mur d'exposition. Au sommet, des excroissances encore visibles, permettaient de tendre une toile (le velarium) au-dessus du Colisée pour protéger les spectateurs du soleil. Ce voile était manœuvré par un détachement de marins de la flotte impériale basés à la caserne Castra Misenatium !
Le Colisée utilise plusieurs matériaux. Le principal est le travertin (piliers), le marbre pour des décorations, les murs rayonnants sont en briques ou en tuf, et les voûtes en béton romain. On s'est également servi de métal pour lier les pierres entre elles : pour s'assurer que deux blocs contigüs ne bougent pas on les perçait de deux trous et on y fixait une agrafe. Durant le Moyen-âge ces agrafes furent récupérées et fondues. On peut observer de nos jours sur la quasi-totalité des blocs des trous indiquant les emplacements des anciennes agrafes.
L'espace entre l'amphithéâtre et la façade est fait de deux couloirs circulaires mitoyens par étage. Le nombre de couloirs (vomitorium) permettait de faire sortir les spectateurs en 5 minutes. Chaque classe sociale avait sa tribune et ses couloirs avec leurs propres entrées. Les classes sociales pouvaient donc ne jamais se croiser dans le Colisée. Il existe un couloir spécial derrière le podium interdit au public, une sorte de galerie de service permettant de positionner des archers en charge de la sécurité des spectateurs.
La Cavea (gradins) est fortement dégradée et seule une toute petite partie des gradins a été reconstruite. Les gradins étaient répartis le long de la courbe de l'amphitéâtre. Les sièges les plus proches de l'arène étaient séparés par un mur de 3 mètres de hauteur (le podium), les plus hauts sièges étaient situés à plus de 40 mètres de haut. Les spectateurs étaient assis dans un arrangement hiérarchisé qui reflète la nature rigide et stratifiée de la société romaine. L'empereur était bien sûr tout en bas alors que la plèbe était au sommet. L'arène mesure 83m de long sur 48 m de large. Le sol était un plancher, parfois remplacé par de la brique sur certains endroits. L'arène couvre une vaste structure souterraine appelée « hypogée » (caves d'un bâtiment antique, partie souterraine) qui a été créé après l'inauguration, sous l'empereur Domitien et correspond à nos coulisses modernes. L'hypogée était divisés en 15 couloirs réalisés en brique et en blocs de tuf, bâtis parallèlement à une galerie centrale.
The construction of Rome's largest amphitheater begins in 72 AD. J.C. at the request of Emperor Vespasian. His two sons, Titus and Domitian continue his construction that ends in the year 82. The building is called Flavian Amphitheater, named after the dynasty of these emperors. The name of Colosseum appears only in the Middle Ages, in reference to the gigantic statue of Nero of 35 meters (called colosse) located next to the amphitheater. With its 187 meters long, 155 meters wide and 50 meters high, the Colosseum could probably accommodate 50 000 spectators eager for shows such as venationes (fights of wild animals), munera (gladiator fights) and other shows public. To improve comfort, the Colosseum was equipped with 70 water fountains and food vendors were running during the shows. It remained in service for nearly 500 years, the last games lasting until the sixth century. For the inauguration of the Colosseum, Titus gave a naumachie in the Colosseum transformed into a pool reconstituting the naval battle of Corinth against Corcyra. The building finally ceased to be used during the High Middle Ages. It was later reused for various uses such as dwellings, craftsmen's workshops, the seat of a religious order, a fortress, a quarry and a Christian Catholic sanctuary.
In the shape of an egg, the Coliseum has 4 floors. The first three are carried by columns of different orders: Doric (Ground floor), Ionic (First floor) and Corinthian (Second floor). The use of these three styles show the artistic evolutions known during antiquity. This succession of arcades only exist on the first three levels, the fourth, posterior, is a solid wall (a piece of architecture that we call "Attic") pierced with small rectangular windows to the rhythm of an arcade On two. The attic was used to expose large decorative shields, much like an exhibition wall. At the top, still visible growths, allowed to stretch a canvas (the velarium) above the Colosseum to protect the spectators from the sun. This sail was maneuvered by a detachment of sailors from the imperial fleet based at the Castra Misenatium barracks!
The Colosseum uses several materials. The main one is the travertine (pillars), the marble for decorations, the radiant walls are in brick or tuff, and the vaults in Roman concrete. Metal was also used to bind the stones together: to make sure that two contiguous blocks did not move they were pierced with two holes and a staple attached. During the Middle Ages these staples were recovered and melted. Almost all blocks of holes can be seen today, indicating the locations of the old staples.
The space between the amphitheater and the facade is made of two adjoining circular corridors per floor. The number of corridors (vomitorium) allowed to get the spectators out in 5 minutes. Each social class had its gallery and corridors with their own entrances. Social classes could never cross in the Colosseum. There is a special corridor behind the public banned podium, a kind of service gallery for positioning archers in charge of spectator safety.
The Cavea (bleachers) is heavily degraded and only a very small portion of the bleachers has been rebuilt. The bleachers were distributed along the curve of the amphitheater. The seats closest to the arena were separated by a wall 3 meters high (the podium), the highest seats were located more than 40 meters high. Spectators sat in a hierarchical arrangement that reflected the rigid and stratified nature of Roman society. The emperor was of course at the bottom while the plebs was at the top. The arena is 83m long by 48m wide. The floor was a floor, sometimes replaced by brick on some places. The arena covers a vast underground structure called "hypogeum" (cellars of an ancient building, underground part) that was created after the inauguration, under the emperor Domitian and fits our modern backstage. The hypogeum was divided into 15 corridors made of brick and blocks of tufa, built parallel to a central gallery.
So here we are, on the road again, and I hadn't sorted out the Sony A6000 to Snapseed interfaces.
I shoot RAW and my image transfers from this trip look meh. After 4 weeks it finally occurred to me to look at the file size. Lo and behold, thumbnail jpgs were transferred. Ugh.
This is why my cellphone images look sharp on Flickr and the A6000 images do not.
I tested shooting RAW + JPG and the good, full Rez JPG does transfer. Lesson learned.
Next thing is image processing.
I read about how Norman Seeff used to print high contrast works with a twist. He used a black stocking between the enlarger lens and paper to give a interesting softness to some of his images.
He wasn't by any means the only one to do this.
When I worked at Samy Cameras photo lab on Sunset Blvd in Hollyweird we used to do this at client request. It was really no big deal.
What was a bigger deal was our use of Agfa Portriga Rapid 111 Glossy paper. It gave a gorgeous deep walnut brown tone. We used this for may of the gallery shows we printed for various then famous photographers.
Taking the black stocking idea and borrowing tones from Portriga Rapid, it turns out, expresses pretty well how I feel about Rome.
So, here is a series of images done in an old, outdated, likely not very hip manner.