View allAll Photos Tagged Rewinde
i live down the street from this. it's huge and it's an amazing place to take pictures!
the leak explanation:
i got my new roll of film developed today. i was kinda not paying attention and opened the back of the camera before i rewinded the film into the film canister so some of my pictures got leaks! they didn't ruin my film though so i'm pretty happy. on the other hand, i was freaking out for a while because i left the back open for about 5 seconds and didn't even realize it. i thought my pictures were going to be ruined! so glad they weren't.
film, canon ae-1
i got my new roll of film developed today. i was kinda not paying attention and opened the back of the camera before i rewinded the film into the film canister so some of my pictures got leaks! they didn't ruin my film though so i'm pretty happy.
ethan, my 3 year old nephew, took this haha. well i set it up. he hit the button. i promised him i'd put it up.
film, canon ae-1
Camera: Leica M5
Lens: Elmarit 2.8/28mm (version 3, from 1982)
Film: Kodak Gold 200
This double exposure was unintended. I removed the film from a camera that seemed to have developed problems. As the frame counter was not working, I had to guess how many frames I had taken. I rewinded the film and put the canister in another camera, advanced the film to a point where I thought the film would be unexposed but I guessed wrong. Had five double exposures that look like crap. Only this one pleased me.
|facebook| |tumblr| |instagram| |blog|
Today I went to the woods with a friend. We had lunch under some beautiful trees and fought with a few wasps and red spiders. We went to see little beautiful things, such as clear water rivers, fields and horses.
Today I finished shooting my first roll of film, rewinded it and put another one on. That's a progress to me, I was afraid I would break everything. So happy!!! I can't wait to see the results.
My living room was so bright when I came back home a while ago that I had to take a picture.
Vivitar Ultra Wide & Slim + Agfa Precisa CT, Xpro
Feria de abril en el Forum, Barcelona
***
Had a bit of a happy accident with this one... I opened the camera by accident when the film hadnt been completely rewinded inside. Behold, the light leak from hell!
The red halos are becouse of the fact the roll detached from the sprocket, and so I opened the camera after rewinded the roll, and some slide took a bit of light... the result in this case is stunning in my opinion!
zorki-6 - j8 - ilford hp5- epson3200
my zorki ate the last frames of the roll, might have transported too fast or rewinded fiercely. gotta love the unpredictible nature of these cameras.
Expired Fujichrome Sensia 100 found with almost 30 shots left in recently acquired Minolta X-700. I rewinded the film and loaded it in my trusty Canon A-1.
Cross Processed
October 2018, Novi Sad
Check out my instagram page:
>> instagram.com/hailehalassie <<
Happy Six word story Feathery Friday!
This week, your photo should tell a story. The title should be a Six Word Story.
The group, Six Word Story, is one that is public and fun. You don't have to join the group to take part in this week's story, but if you do... you can post your picture both Here in Feathery Friday and There in the Six word Story group.
It's easy:
1. Choose your picture, preferably one that tells a story.
2. Title your picture with six words that (with simple elegance) tell the story.
3. Put your picture-story in the pool.
4. Put your photo in the bragging thread.
5. Vote on your favorite six-word-story on Friday or Saturday.
SO! Go be storytellers! Have fun!
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
Per fi, la tinc. La càmera que va fixar i definir el format de 35mm i el posà al centre del món, essent encara el patró (full frame) per a totes les cameres que es fabriquen 100 anys després. Fins i tot la distribució generica dels control ja va quedar en gran part fixada per aquest primer model.
Estic parlant obviament de la Leica I, model A, començada a fabricar a Wetzlar el 1925; també es coneix com a Leica A. Com molts sabreu, el primer prototip (Ur-Leica) fou del 1913, creat per Oskar Barnack per a l'empresa de microscopis Ernst Leitz. Però la Gran Guerra ho parà tot i no fou fins el 1923 que els models de pre-serie s'ultimaren (Leica Null-Series). Finalment, Leitz, tot i la crisi, s'arriscà a llençar al mercat aquesta "camera en miniatura", i canvià el món de la fotografía.
La Leica I model A es diferencia visualment de la resta de Leicas pel anomenat "pal de hoquei", peça frontal que bloqueja l'enfoc a infinit. A la part superior hi ha la maneta d'avançament, el disparador, la palanca de desembragament per poder rebobinar, el selector de vel·locitats, el visor i la maneta de rebobinat. Aquesta disposició de comandaments serà copiada fins l'extenuació i esdevindrà l'estandart fins i tot avui en dia.
Aquest exemplar és la segona i més antiga Leica I (A) que tinc. Això es nota en detalls com el disparador en forma de xampinyó, o el avançador de rodet més baix. Amb el número de serie 14926, data del 1929, i funciona perfectament, amb l’excepció que no pot rebobinar. Vaig descobrir que l’interior està en molt bon estat, però que li manca una peça que desembraga el mecanisme per poder rebobinar. Així i tot, pot fer fotos de gran qualitat, amb la salvetat que cal treure el rodet a les fosques. L'objectiu és l'usual en les Leica I, el Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm plegable (que facilita molt poder-la portar a la butxaca). Aquestes Leica inicials tenien un objectiu fixe, i no es podia canviar. Es tracta del Elmar original, sense escala de profunditat de camp, el que fa l’enfoc una mica més dificil. Per sort, es pot adjuntar a la càmera un telèmetre extern de la propia Leitz, com el FODIS/FODUA o el FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
============================================
At last, I got IT. The camera, which set and defined the 35mm format, put it in the center of the World, still being the pattern (full frame) for all cameras 100 years later. Even the generic distribution of the controls was already largely fixed by this first model.
I'm obviously talking about the Leica I, model A, which was manufactured in Wetzlar from 1925; also known as Leica A. As you may know, the first prototype (Ur-Leica) was from 1913, created by Oskar Barnack for the Ernst Leitz microscope company. But the Great War delayed all development, and it was not until 1923 that the pre-series models were produced (Leica Null-Series). Finally, despite the crisis, Leitz took the risk of launching this "miniature camera" on the market, changing the world of photography.
The Leica I model A differs visually from the rest of Leicas by the so-called "hockey stick", a front piece that blocks the focus at infinite. At the top plate are the advance lever, trigger, release lever for rewinding, speed selector, viewfinder and rewind handle. This control layout will be copied multiple times (notably by Nikon in the S and F series) and will become the standard even today.
This Leica I (A) is in fact my second one of this early model, and was made in 1929, due to it’s serial number being the 14926. It has several early model details, like the “mushroom” button or short advance lever. The camera works well, but can’t be rewinded. I discovered that it lacks a part that disengages the mechanism so it could be rewinded (so it has to be done in the dark). The lens is the usual for the Leica I, the folding Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm (which makes it very easy to carry it in your pocket). These initial Leica had a fixed lens, and they could not be changed. In this case it is the original Elmar, without depth-of-field scale, making focusing more difficult. A detachable vertical rangefinder could be mounted on the cold shoe, like Leit’z own FODIS/FODUA or the later FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.earlyphotography.co.uk/site/entry_C234.html
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
Aquí podeu veure comparades l'origen i l'evolució (casi) final de la Leica classica, la de format M39 (és a dir, els models I, II i III). Dic casi, perque la de sobre és una Leica IIIf del 1956, i encara sortí el model IIIg fins el 1960. La Leica I model A de baix data del 1929, però és pràcticament identica a les produides el 1925. Com podeu veure, canvià el color, s'hi sumà el telèmetre i la conexió de flaix, però els controls es mantingueren pràcticament iguals.
Aquesta és la càmera que va fixar i definir el format de 35mm i el posà al centre del món, essent encara el patró (full frame) per a totes les cameres que es fabriquen 100 anys després. Fins i tot la distribució generica dels control ja va quedar en gran part fixada per aquest primer model.
Estic parlant obviament de la Leica I, model A, començada a fabricar a Wetzlar el 1925; també es coneix com a Leica A. Com molts sabreu, el primer prototip (Ur-Leica) fou del 1913, creat per Oskar Barnack per a l'empresa de microscopis Ernst Leitz. Però la Gran Guerra ho parà tot i no fou fins el 1923 que els models de pre-serie s'ultimaren (Leica Null-Series). Finalment, Leitz, tot i la crisi, s'arriscà a llençar al mercat aquesta "camera en miniatura", i canvià el món de la fotografía.
La Leica I model A es diferencia visualment de la resta de Leicas pel anomenat "pal de hoquei", peça frontal que bloqueja l'enfoc a infinit. A la part superior hi ha la maneta d'avançament, el disparador, la palanca de desembragament per poder rebobinar, el selector de vel·locitats, el visor i la maneta de rebobinat. Aquesta disposició de comandaments serà copiada fins l'extenuació i esdevindrà l'estandart fins i tot avui en dia.
Aquest exemplar és la segona i més antiga Leica I (A) que tinc. Això es nota en detalls com el disparador en forma de xampinyó, o el avançador de rodet més baix. Amb el número de serie 14926, data del 1929, i funciona perfectament, amb l’excepció que no pot rebobinar. Vaig descobrir que l’interior està en molt bon estat, però que li manca una peça que desembraga el mecanisme per poder rebobinar. Així i tot, pot fer fotos de gran qualitat, amb la salvetat que cal treure el rodet a les fosques. L'objectiu és l'usual en les Leica I, el Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm plegable (que facilita molt poder-la portar a la butxaca). Aquestes Leica inicials tenien un objectiu fixe, i no es podia canviar. Es tracta del Elmar original, sense escala de profunditat de camp, el que fa l’enfoc una mica més dificil. Per sort, es pot adjuntar a la càmera un telèmetre extern de la propia Leitz, com el FODIS/FODUA o el FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
============================================
Here's a comparison of an early (bottom) and late (top) Leica LTM cameras, showing similarities and differences in three decades of evolution (and a World War between). The Leica I (A) was made in 1929 (but those made in 1925 are quite similar), and the Leica IIIf was made in 1956. Color changed, features were added, but the basic controls remained in place.
This is the camera which set and defined the 35mm format, put it in the center of the World, still being the pattern (full frame) for all cameras 100 years later. Even the generic distribution of the controls was already largely fixed by this first model.
I'm obviously talking about the Leica I, model A, which was manufactured in Wetzlar from 1925; also known as Leica A. As you may know, the first prototype (Ur-Leica) was from 1913, created by Oskar Barnack for the Ernst Leitz microscope company. But the Great War delayed all development, and it was not until 1923 that the pre-series models were produced (Leica Null-Series). Finally, despite the crisis, Leitz took the risk of launching this "miniature camera" on the market, changing the world of photography.
The Leica I model A differs visually from the rest of Leicas by the so-called "hockey stick", a front piece that blocks the focus at infinite. At the top plate are the advance lever, trigger, release lever for rewinding, speed selector, viewfinder and rewind handle. This control layout will be copied multiple times (notably by Nikon in the S and F series) and will become the standard even today.
This Leica I (A) is in fact my second one of this early model, and was made in 1929, due to it’s serial number being the 14926. It has several early model details, like the “mushroom” button or short advance lever. The camera works well, but can’t be rewinded. I discovered that it lacks a part that disengages the mechanism so it could be rewinded (so it has to be done in the dark). The lens is the usual for the Leica I, the folding Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm (which makes it very easy to carry it in your pocket). These initial Leica had a fixed lens, and they could not be changed. In this case it is the original Elmar, without depth-of-field scale, making focusing more difficult. A detachable vertical rangefinder could be mounted on the cold shoe, like Leit’z own FODIS/FODUA or the later FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.earlyphotography.co.uk/site/entry_C234.html
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
Rewinded my older model, did some structure upgrades and tried out a few variatons, like that one with the "camper" roofing for more space while standing in the vehicle.
these are from an experiment i did yesterday. first i took pictures of glitter thinys under the sun. used a whole film. then rewinded till the begining , and took pictures of other things.
i was working so i had the chance to take pictures of children playing in the garden.
i only got %15 good pictures , but still happy!
will try again later.
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
La Leica I no comptava amb telèmetre integrat. Calia enfocar a ull, o fer servir un telèmetre desmontable fabricat per la propia Leitz, com aquest FODIS (també conegut com FODUA). De fet, Leitz sembla que fabricava telemetres abans que càmeres i tot).
Aquesta és la càmera que va fixar i definir el format de 35mm i el posà al centre del món, essent encara el patró (full frame) per a totes les cameres que es fabriquen 100 anys després. Fins i tot la distribució generica dels control ja va quedar en gran part fixada per aquest primer model.
Estic parlant obviament de la Leica I, model A, començada a fabricar a Wetzlar el 1925; també es coneix com a Leica A. Com molts sabreu, el primer prototip (Ur-Leica) fou del 1913, creat per Oskar Barnack per a l'empresa de microscopis Ernst Leitz. Però la Gran Guerra ho parà tot i no fou fins el 1923 que els models de pre-serie s'ultimaren (Leica Null-Series). Finalment, Leitz, tot i la crisi, s'arriscà a llençar al mercat aquesta "camera en miniatura", i canvià el món de la fotografía.
La Leica I model A es diferencia visualment de la resta de Leicas pel anomenat "pal de hoquei", peça frontal que bloqueja l'enfoc a infinit. A la part superior hi ha la maneta d'avançament, el disparador, la palanca de desembragament per poder rebobinar, el selector de vel·locitats, el visor i la maneta de rebobinat. Aquesta disposició de comandaments serà copiada fins l'extenuació i esdevindrà l'estandart fins i tot avui en dia.
Aquest exemplar és la segona i més antiga Leica I (A) que tinc. Això es nota en detalls com el disparador en forma de xampinyó, o el avançador de rodet més baix. Amb el número de serie 14926, data del 1929, i funciona perfectament, amb l’excepció que no pot rebobinar. Vaig descobrir que l’interior està en molt bon estat, però que li manca una peça que desembraga el mecanisme per poder rebobinar. Així i tot, pot fer fotos de gran qualitat, amb la salvetat que cal treure el rodet a les fosques. L'objectiu és l'usual en les Leica I, el Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm plegable (que facilita molt poder-la portar a la butxaca). Aquestes Leica inicials tenien un objectiu fixe, i no es podia canviar. Es tracta del Elmar original, sense escala de profunditat de camp, el que fa l’enfoc una mica més dificil. Per sort, es pot adjuntar a la càmera un telèmetre extern de la propia Leitz, com el FODIS/FODUA o el FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
============================================
The Leica I had no integral rangefinder, only the option to use an external one (the "cold shoe" was just for that, not for flash). This one is a FODIS (aka FODUA), of the same Leitz company. You have to focus first with the FODIS, and then transfer the distance to the lens.
This is the camera which set and defined the 35mm format, put it in the center of the World, still being the pattern (full frame) for all cameras 100 years later. Even the generic distribution of the controls was already largely fixed by this first model.
I'm obviously talking about the Leica I, model A, which was manufactured in Wetzlar from 1925; also known as Leica A. As you may know, the first prototype (Ur-Leica) was from 1913, created by Oskar Barnack for the Ernst Leitz microscope company. But the Great War delayed all development, and it was not until 1923 that the pre-series models were produced (Leica Null-Series). Finally, despite the crisis, Leitz took the risk of launching this "miniature camera" on the market, changing the world of photography.
The Leica I model A differs visually from the rest of Leicas by the so-called "hockey stick", a front piece that blocks the focus at infinite. At the top plate are the advance lever, trigger, release lever for rewinding, speed selector, viewfinder and rewind handle. This control layout will be copied multiple times (notably by Nikon in the S and F series) and will become the standard even today.
This Leica I (A) is in fact my second one of this early model, and was made in 1929, due to it’s serial number being the 14926. It has several early model details, like the “mushroom” button or short advance lever. The camera works well, but can’t be rewinded. I discovered that it lacks a part that disengages the mechanism so it could be rewinded (so it has to be done in the dark). The lens is the usual for the Leica I, the folding Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm (which makes it very easy to carry it in your pocket). These initial Leica had a fixed lens, and they could not be changed. In this case it is the original Elmar, without depth-of-field scale, making focusing more difficult. A detachable vertical rangefinder could be mounted on the cold shoe, like Leit’z own FODIS/FODUA or the later FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.earlyphotography.co.uk/site/entry_C234.html
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
again trying to get some realism out of bluerender aiming for the old TLG catalogue pictures style..
The bus is inspired by www.flickr.com/photos/gabor_horvath
Olympus mju i
Kodak Color Plus 200
I got that mju on an ebay auction for like 30 bucks, right away started shooting with that badboy, but suddenly on rewind function it got stuck and could't work it out. So I manually rewinded the film and the results was that. More will be uploaded soon.
Expired Fujichrome Sensia 100 found with almost 30 shots left in recently acquired Minolta X-700. I rewinded the film and loaded it in my trusty Canon A-1.
Cross Processed
October 2018, Novi Sad
Instagram.com/hailehalassie
Went today to the city to get my films to the photo laboratory (shortly bevor i arrived there i rewinded the film and it wasnt completely in the film roll as i opened the lid and exposed a little part of it :P).
On the way there i passed by the Wasserturm - Mannheims landmark. I really like the tower as a subject for a photo but it got shot just too many times.
So i tried to make something "new"! And here we go with the shot thorugh the eyes of an old Seagull camera (Rollei Copy). Its nearly broken :( but for this kind of shots its just perfect :)
Hope you like the shot - im enjoying the last few days of my holidays so far...just too great to keep my ass on the couch when ever i want to :P
Camel ride is kinda like riding on roller coaster, UP and Down, UP and Down. We have to hold the rail all the time to maintain my position right on the seat. Yes, I was taking a risk to take this stupid photo. Even I rewinded & loaded a roll of film to my Lomo LCW camera as well XD
One day, while at my last job, I was sitting around watching my line, getting bored. Line was running fine, I wasn't yet an operator for that line, so I was really just there for changeovers which happened around 5 times a day with the operator I was paired with. I was bored. SO BORED! In my bordedom, I had a lot of time to think, so I tactfully wasted that time twiddling my thumbs. Eventually this tired me too, so I went to a different line that I had run earlier that week and got a core that was destined to go in the dumpster. When I say core, think cardboard toilet paper tube on steroids. It's 1/4" thick cardboard tube with an inner diameter of about 3"...It's practically structural tubing. I took out my multi-tool and started to bore a hole in it with the leather punch. Now mind you that this core is 1/4" wood pulp held together with thick glue. It took me 30 minutes to get a hole in the core. Woo hoo. Then the idea hit me like a ton of bricks. I WOULD MAKE THIS PIECE OF GARBAGE INTO A CAMERA. I told everybody that I would do so, and nobody believed me. That night I went home and got a 3/8" wooden dowel, 4 1/4x20x1.5 NF Hex head bolts, an old film can, an old roll of fuji superia that I wasn't going to use, some super glue, my drill bits, and a good roll of TMax 100. I also printed out a sheet of reciprocity failure characteristics for the TMax.
The next day, armed with my parts and ideas swirling around in my head, I went to work. It was going to be another day of the same boredom from the last, but I was prepared. When I got there, I performed my usual setup and cleaning duties, helped to start the line, and got things running smooth. Then it was waiting time.
I set about building my device. I took the straight edge I kept at work and lined out 4 lines down the length of the core, 90 degrees apart, making sure to keep one line through the approximate center of my recently created hole. I took my drill bits and, by hand, drilled out 4 holes for the bolts and 4 holes for the dowels undercut by one size bit. I cut the dowels to approximate size with my multi-tool. I tapped the four bolt holes with the bolts themselves in order to ensure the most light-tight seal that I could get. I CHANGED OVER THE MACHINE.
After the changeover, I had to cut some cores for the current run. I grabbed a few and my cut dowels and ran upstairs to the bandsaw. When I was done with the cores, I cut a slot down the approximate center of the dowels, about 1/3 the length of the dowel. When I got back to the line, I tried to fit the dowels into the rolls of film. They didn't fit. I took a small drill bit and carved the dowels down the sides of the band saw cut, and the knife in my multitool until the dowels fit into the film cartridge and engaged the flats (so I could advance/rewind the film without having to rely on friction fits or glue). Then...A CHANGEOVER!
Once we got that all sorted out, I went back about my business. I attacked the roll of superia like a dog. I tore off the top of the can and ripped all the film out. I made sure to completely remove all the film and tape from the spindle without damaging it, because I knew I'd need it later. I took the film can from the TMax and cut out a slot so the part of the superia can where the film came out would fit through it. I superglued them together as you see in the image. Then I drilled out a hole in the lid and bottom of the can to fit the dowel to the spindle (again by hand...no power tools or even bit-holders for me). I set that aside to dry and decided to cut a groove the size of some tape around the aperture. It worked out well and it was a quick sortie of hacking and tearing. I then decorated my creation with shapies until the next CHANGEOVER!
At last, I was set to assemble my camera...but wait! I had forgotten to create an aperture! There was merely a gaping hole in the camera where the controlled diameter aperture should be! CRAP! I quickly set about going to a break in order to search out a suitable (preferrably ductile) material that I could use as an aperture plate. I walked slowly toward the restroom through the warehouse looking for any garbage that may be of use...and there it was. Foil. Trash, left on a dead machine with no printing on it. Perfect. I got a good 6" square piece of my prize and went to the restroom, then to lunch.
A half hour later, I returned and sought out one of my mechanic friends. I asked for something like a pin, and he said he'd look around and find me on the line. I went back to the line just in time for a CHANGEOVER!
This was it, the last CHANGEOVER of the day. I had to get this thing together. About an hour before quitting time, Mr. Mechanic came by with an extremely fine-pointed pin-type thing. It was perfect. I quickly cut my foil to about the size of a dime, layed out two pieces of tape on the steel table and cut a triangular hole in the centers. I sandwiched the foil between the two pieces of tape, as centered as I dared eye, and applied it to my cameruh. I poked a hole in the foil as close to center as possible and refined it with a combination of calipers and pressure. The hole came out to about 0.2mm in diameter. It was done. I went home for the night.
The next day, I went in and did my normal routine until we were running. Boredom time. I got out my film from my pocket and the camera from under the table where I had left it last night. This was it. The moment of truth. I pulled out the leader of the TMax and cut it to an appropriate shape. I stuck it through the slot in my makeshift film receiver and taped it securely to the spindle. I wound the unwind spindle a couple revolutions. It worked well enough in the damning light of...um...sodium lights? Happy with my contraption, I placed it into the body. The spindles would sit suspended upon the dowels, which would also act as advance/rewind knobs for the film. The bolts would act as holders to avoid the cans from spinning with the advance/rewinde action. I was set. A double layer of tape covering both ends of the tube, a 0.2mm or f/235 aperture installed, and film in the proper place, approximately 47mm from the opening of the aperture. There was no reason it wouldn't work. I had the reciprocity characteristics at hand and was itching to try out my creation...
tl;dr - I made a camera from garbage at work cause I was bored. Also left an attempted cliffhanger/segway into the next picture I'm going to post...just push F!
Sorry for the wall of text, but there might be another one coming.
Not so sure sprcket holes are worth the extra trouble. Preflashed fuji 800 35mm film in holga 120n. Developed in hair dye. Bleach bypass. Scanned with epson v500.
There used to be more info online about preflashing and how to do it. Here's a basic explanation of what it is.
www.brighthub.com/electronics/cameras-camcorders/articles...
How I did it was, I put a white styrofoam cup (cut off short) over the lens of my Holga, I adjusted the focus to infinity. I turned off all room lights, Then I opened different colored backgrounds in my photo editing software, (I use the GIMP) I dimmed the brightness of my computer monitor and held the styro cup to the monitor and exposed the whole roll, shot by shot, each frame with a different color, just as if I was taking pictures. Then I rewinded the film back into the canister and shot it as usual. That might not be how you're supposed to do it, but it's the way i did it :-) You can also post flash, for a slightly different effect.
Just having fun. I'm no expert. Try at your own risk :-)
This link has a list of movies in which they flashed the film for different effects. Some of them you can watch at youtube. "Picnic" starring William Holden, for instance.
> Check and stay tuned on my photography Facebook : www.facebook.com/photographe.maximepateau/
_
www.flickr.com/groups/strobist/pool/ :
_ + zooming
_ Flash used SB-910 > 1
_ Flash place > right side of the camera
_ Flash > not modified
_ Flash triggered with remote control
Accidentally I've got quite symbolic picture: ORWO Net GmbH HQ on the last frame of ORWO NP55. This film was rewinded from the big film reel (long expired stock from 1980's) - and that's the reason why it was exposed at the end.
Minolta 505si Super + M42 adapter
Carl Zeiss Jena DDR Flektogon 2,4/35mm
Yellow-orange PZO (Polskie Zakłady Optyczne) filter OG4 m49x0,75/51 mm
ORWO NP-55 ISO50 + Rodinal 1:100 (1hr semi-stand)
Expired Fujichrome Sensia 100 found with almost 30 shots left in recently acquired Minolta X-700. I rewinded the film and loaded it in my trusty Canon A-1.
Cross Processed
October 2018, Novi Sad
Check out my instagram page:
>> instagram.com/hailehalassie <<
This was featured in Lil Kim's "Black Friday" music video. When I saw them, I stopped and rewinded XD
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
Quan Oskar Barnack va crear la Leica, existien pocs precedents d'ús de pel·licula DE CINEMA de 35mm per a càmeres de fotografia. I encara menys el després ubicu rodet standard tipus 135 (creat per Kodak). La pel·licula es comprava a l'engròs i es carregava en rodets reutilitzables de la propia Leitz, el model FILCA. Aquest és un FILCA B preparat per carregar a la Leica I (A). Els rodets 135 no poden ser emprats en aquestes Leica tant inicials (de 1929).
Aquesta és la càmera que va fixar i definir el format de 35mm i el posà al centre del món, essent encara el patró (full frame) per a totes les cameres que es fabriquen 100 anys després. Fins i tot la distribució generica dels control ja va quedar en gran part fixada per aquest primer model.
Estic parlant obviament de la Leica I, model A, començada a fabricar a Wetzlar el 1925; també es coneix com a Leica A. Com molts sabreu, el primer prototip (Ur-Leica) fou del 1913, creat per Oskar Barnack per a l'empresa de microscopis Ernst Leitz. Però la Gran Guerra ho parà tot i no fou fins el 1923 que els models de pre-serie s'ultimaren (Leica Null-Series). Finalment, Leitz, tot i la crisi, s'arriscà a llençar al mercat aquesta "camera en miniatura", i canvià el món de la fotografía.
La Leica I model A es diferencia visualment de la resta de Leicas pel anomenat "pal de hoquei", peça frontal que bloqueja l'enfoc a infinit. A la part superior hi ha la maneta d'avançament, el disparador, la palanca de desembragament per poder rebobinar, el selector de vel·locitats, el visor i la maneta de rebobinat. Aquesta disposició de comandaments serà copiada fins l'extenuació i esdevindrà l'estandart fins i tot avui en dia.
Aquest exemplar és la segona i més antiga Leica I (A) que tinc. Això es nota en detalls com el disparador en forma de xampinyó, o el avançador de rodet més baix. Amb el número de serie 14926, data del 1929, i funciona perfectament, amb l’excepció que no pot rebobinar. Vaig descobrir que l’interior està en molt bon estat, però que li manca una peça que desembraga el mecanisme per poder rebobinar. Així i tot, pot fer fotos de gran qualitat, amb la salvetat que cal treure el rodet a les fosques. L'objectiu és l'usual en les Leica I, el Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm plegable (que facilita molt poder-la portar a la butxaca). Aquestes Leica inicials tenien un objectiu fixe, i no es podia canviar. Es tracta del Elmar original, sense escala de profunditat de camp, el que fa l’enfoc una mica més dificil. Per sort, es pot adjuntar a la càmera un telèmetre extern de la propia Leitz, com el FODIS/FODUA o el FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
Sobre rodets reutilitzables:
www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps%20how%20choose%20...
============================================
When Oskar Barnack created the Leica, there were few precedents for using 35mm MOVIE film for cameras. And even less the afterwards ubiquitous standard daylight cassette type 135 (created by Kodak). The film was bought in bulk and loaded into reusable cassettes from Leitz itself, the FILCA model. This is a FILCA B ready to load into the Leica I (A). The 135 rollers cannot be used in these early Leicas ( this one from 1929).
This is the camera which set and defined the 35mm format, put it in the center of the World, still being the pattern (full frame) for all cameras 100 years later. Even the generic distribution of the controls was already largely fixed by this first model.
I'm obviously talking about the Leica I, model A, which was manufactured in Wetzlar from 1925; also known as Leica A. As you may know, the first prototype (Ur-Leica) was from 1913, created by Oskar Barnack for the Ernst Leitz microscope company. But the Great War delayed all development, and it was not until 1923 that the pre-series models were produced (Leica Null-Series). Finally, despite the crisis, Leitz took the risk of launching this "miniature camera" on the market, changing the world of photography.
The Leica I model A differs visually from the rest of Leicas by the so-called "hockey stick", a front piece that blocks the focus at infinite. At the top plate are the advance lever, trigger, release lever for rewinding, speed selector, viewfinder and rewind handle. This control layout will be copied multiple times (notably by Nikon in the S and F series) and will become the standard even today.
This Leica I (A) is in fact my second one of this early model, and was made in 1929, due to it’s serial number being the 14926. It has several early model details, like the “mushroom” button or short advance lever. The camera works well, but can’t be rewinded. I discovered that it lacks a part that disengages the mechanism so it could be rewinded (so it has to be done in the dark). The lens is the usual for the Leica I, the folding Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm (which makes it very easy to carry it in your pocket). These initial Leica had a fixed lens, and they could not be changed. In this case it is the original Elmar, without depth-of-field scale, making focusing more difficult. A detachable vertical rangefinder could be mounted on the cold shoe, like Leit’z own FODIS/FODUA or the later FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.earlyphotography.co.uk/site/entry_C234.html
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
About reloadable cassettes:
www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps%20how%20choose%20...
Norrtälje, Sweden, 2019 (probably March)
Konica FC-1, Kodak Tmax100, Hexanon 135 mm f3.5, yellow filter; developed with Paranol-S
This frame was one of the first on the roll. Shortly after the shot, the camera died, so I rewinded the film, put in in another camera (another FC-1, actually), and finished the roll. I'm glad the exposures survived...
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
La Leica I no comptava amb telèmetre integrat. Calia enfocar a ull, o fer servir un telèmetre desmontable fabricat per la propia Leitz, com aquest FODIS (també conegut com FODUA). De fet, Leitz sembla que fabricava telemetres abans que càmeres i tot).
Aquesta és la càmera que va fixar i definir el format de 35mm i el posà al centre del món, essent encara el patró (full frame) per a totes les cameres que es fabriquen 100 anys després. Fins i tot la distribució generica dels control ja va quedar en gran part fixada per aquest primer model.
Estic parlant obviament de la Leica I, model A, començada a fabricar a Wetzlar el 1925; també es coneix com a Leica A. Com molts sabreu, el primer prototip (Ur-Leica) fou del 1913, creat per Oskar Barnack per a l'empresa de microscopis Ernst Leitz. Però la Gran Guerra ho parà tot i no fou fins el 1923 que els models de pre-serie s'ultimaren (Leica Null-Series). Finalment, Leitz, tot i la crisi, s'arriscà a llençar al mercat aquesta "camera en miniatura", i canvià el món de la fotografía.
La Leica I model A es diferencia visualment de la resta de Leicas pel anomenat "pal de hoquei", peça frontal que bloqueja l'enfoc a infinit. A la part superior hi ha la maneta d'avançament, el disparador, la palanca de desembragament per poder rebobinar, el selector de vel·locitats, el visor i la maneta de rebobinat. Aquesta disposició de comandaments serà copiada fins l'extenuació i esdevindrà l'estandart fins i tot avui en dia.
Aquest exemplar és la segona i més antiga Leica I (A) que tinc. Això es nota en detalls com el disparador en forma de xampinyó, o el avançador de rodet més baix. Amb el número de serie 14926, data del 1929, i funciona perfectament, amb l’excepció que no pot rebobinar. Vaig descobrir que l’interior està en molt bon estat, però que li manca una peça que desembraga el mecanisme per poder rebobinar. Així i tot, pot fer fotos de gran qualitat, amb la salvetat que cal treure el rodet a les fosques. L'objectiu és l'usual en les Leica I, el Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm plegable (que facilita molt poder-la portar a la butxaca). Aquestes Leica inicials tenien un objectiu fixe, i no es podia canviar. Es tracta del Elmar original, sense escala de profunditat de camp, el que fa l’enfoc una mica més dificil. Per sort, es pot adjuntar a la càmera un telèmetre extern de la propia Leitz, com el FODIS/FODUA o el FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
============================================
The Leica I had no integral rangefinder, only the option to use an external one (the "cold shoe" was just for that, not for flash). This one is a FODIS (aka FODUA), of the same Leitz company. You have to focus first with the FODIS, and then transfer the distance to the lens.
This is the camera which set and defined the 35mm format, put it in the center of the World, still being the pattern (full frame) for all cameras 100 years later. Even the generic distribution of the controls was already largely fixed by this first model.
I'm obviously talking about the Leica I, model A, which was manufactured in Wetzlar from 1925; also known as Leica A. As you may know, the first prototype (Ur-Leica) was from 1913, created by Oskar Barnack for the Ernst Leitz microscope company. But the Great War delayed all development, and it was not until 1923 that the pre-series models were produced (Leica Null-Series). Finally, despite the crisis, Leitz took the risk of launching this "miniature camera" on the market, changing the world of photography.
The Leica I model A differs visually from the rest of Leicas by the so-called "hockey stick", a front piece that blocks the focus at infinite. At the top plate are the advance lever, trigger, release lever for rewinding, speed selector, viewfinder and rewind handle. This control layout will be copied multiple times (notably by Nikon in the S and F series) and will become the standard even today.
This Leica I (A) is in fact my second one of this early model, and was made in 1929, due to it’s serial number being the 14926. It has several early model details, like the “mushroom” button or short advance lever. The camera works well, but can’t be rewinded. I discovered that it lacks a part that disengages the mechanism so it could be rewinded (so it has to be done in the dark). The lens is the usual for the Leica I, the folding Leitz Elmar f3.5 / 50mm (which makes it very easy to carry it in your pocket). These initial Leica had a fixed lens, and they could not be changed. In this case it is the original Elmar, without depth-of-field scale, making focusing more difficult. A detachable vertical rangefinder could be mounted on the cold shoe, like Leit’z own FODIS/FODUA or the later FOFER.
www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-wiki.en/index.php/Leica_I_(model_A)
www.cameraquest.com/leicaa.htm
www.earlyphotography.co.uk/site/entry_C234.html
www.shutterbug.com/content/leica-i-camera-change-photography
Preflashed Fuji 800 35mm film in a Holga 120N. Developed in hairdye. Bleach bypass. Scanned with Epson v500.
There used to be more info online about preflashing and how to do it. Here's a basic explanation of what it is.
www.brighthub.com/electronics/cameras-camcorders/articles...
How I did it was, I put a white styrofoam cup (cut off short) over the lens of my Holga, I adjusted the focus to infinity. I turned off all room lights, Then I opened different colored backgrounds in my photo editing software, (I use the GIMP) I dimmed the brightness of my computer monitor and held the styro cup to the monitor and exposed the whole roll, shot by shot, each frame with a different color, just as if I was taking pictures. Then I rewinded the film back into the canister and shot it as usual. That might not be how you're supposed to do it, but it's the way i did it :-) You can also post flash, for a slightly different effect.
Just having fun. I'm no expert. Try at your own risk :-)
This link has a list of movies in which they flashed the film for different effects. Some of them you can watch at youtube. "Picnic" starring William Holden, for instance.
In the background: stator of an electric motor currently being rewinded by Godfried-Willem Raes. Future was looking bleak for the Logos Foundation but there seem to be new projects on the horizon at the moment.
these are from an experiment i did yesterday. first i took pictures of glitter thinys under the sun. used a whole film. then rewinded till the begining , and took pictures of other things.
i was working so i had the chance to take pictures of children playing in the garden.
i only got %15 good pictures , but still happy!
will try again later.
A friend asked me if I ever had done any paintings with cars on.
My brain rewinded and entered empty space – NO! - I had to admit.
I had seenLady Charlys Cadillac and found that the depth in its composition was so powerful that even if I used the technique I call "digital woodcut" that depth would still be there. Some parts would stay pixelated, half carved into the wood and some parts would be allowed to have the softness of the brushstrok. @Lady Charly "Thank you for allowing me to turn your photo in to a painting!"
Dimensions er: 38x50 cm, Golden Acrylics on birch-plywood
Pentax Spotmatic, Kodak Tri-X 400, double exposure through rewinding the film entierly and shooting again, sepia toned.
And crazy leaning outbuilding on Maytown Rd. Preflashed Fuji 800 35mm film in a Holga 120N. Developed in hairdye. Bleach bypass. Scanned with Epson v500. Effing flow marks but I didnt have gloves and my tank leaks so I swirled instead of agitating.
There used to be more info online about preflashing and how to do it. Here's a basic explanation of what it is.
www.brighthub.com/electronics/cameras-camcorders/articles...
How I did it was, I put a white styrofoam cup (cut off short) over the lens of my Holga, I adjusted the focus to infinity. I turned off all room lights, Then I opened different colored backgrounds in my photo editing software, (I use the GIMP) I dimmed the brightness of my computer monitor and held the styro cup to the monitor and exposed the whole roll, shot by shot, each frame with a different color, just as if I was taking pictures. Then I rewinded the film back into the canister and shot it as usual. That might not be how you're supposed to do it, but it's the way i did it :-) You can also post flash, for a slightly different effect.
Just having fun. I'm no expert. Try at your own risk :-)
This link has a list of movies in which they flashed the film for different effects. Some of them you can watch at youtube. "Picnic" starring William Holden, for instance.
SOOC. It was a rainy lazy day. This was taken at my cousin's house, the lighting was perfect so i started to take photos of the bed alone, then Nemo came in and jumped up and modeled for me :) He actually stayed still....for a little while that is.
my grandma's old film camera that i started to use around last autumn, i finally finished the roll today (i shouldn't say finally- i rushed the rest of the shots today, because i kept trying to find more excuses to waste the rest of the roll because of personal reasons) and i realized that photos 1 - 12 are very very personal due to serious nostalgia and i didn't realize those moments were so scarce back then and now they do not exist anymore. When i shot the last photo on the roll, it slowly rewinded. When i saw those numbers counting down i felt scared, im terrified to develope this roll, espically those 12 first shots i took with that camera. this worries me, i can't describe this type of worry though. it took a while for it to count down from 37 to 1. and while each number decreased i suddenly remembered what each photo probably was, 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 and zero. memories counted down backwards...the ones that are gone and hard to think back to. i am nervous but i am going to get them developed before summer ends i have decided. and then here comes the feeling i had thought i have forgotten.
you don't understand.
i don't know what to expect at the studio tomorrow, i am waking up early and i am going to be there all day like last week. i don't know what to expect with helping out my mentor with a handful of senior portraits, nerves nerves. i don't think there will be enough time to ask him if he knows what is wrong with my AE-1 Canon film camera :p so i guess, ill just take it to a camera shop soon-ish ._.although i don't have time to this week
2018/07
Canon AF35M II | Fuji Eterna 250D | Epson v370
(film accidentally rewinded and double-exposed)
2018/07
Canon AF35M II | Fuji Eterna 250D | Epson v370
(film accidentally rewinded and double-exposed)
Preflashed Fuji 800 35mm film in a Holga 120N. Developed in hairdye. Bleach bypass. Scanned with Epson v500.
There used to be more info online about preflashing and how to do it. Here's a basic explanation of what it is.
www.brighthub.com/electronics/cameras-camcorders/articles...
How I did it was, I put a white styrofoam cup (cut off short) over the lens of my Holga, I adjusted the focus to infinity. I turned off all room lights, Then I opened different colored backgrounds in my photo editing software, (I use the GIMP) I dimmed the brightness of my computer monitor and held the styro cup to the monitor and exposed the whole roll, shot by shot, each frame with a different color, just as if I was taking pictures. Then I rewinded the film back into the canister and shot it as usual. That might not be how you're supposed to do it, but it's the way i did it :-) You can also post flash, for a slightly different effect.
Just having fun. I'm no expert. Try at your own risk :-)
This link has a list of movies in which they flashed the film for different effects. Some of them you can watch at youtube. "Picnic" starring William Holden, for instance.