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Traffic officer in the streets of Pyongyang. There is very fews cars in North Korea, but at every crossings, there is a female traffic officer who acts as if there were cars everywhere in a very quick choregraphy. On sunday, cars are not allowed in Pyongyang, to prevent from pollution...

 

Pyongyang North Korea 북한

 

© Eric Lafforgue

www.ericlafforgue.com

The Kaesŏn 개선 (Triumph) metro station in Pyongyang, North Korea.

 

One of the things I wanted to do, was to shoot a sunrise or sunset there. As the tour is a guided tour, sunset was always going to be difficult. However, waking up at 4am for sunrise wasn't really that easy too. I am glad I woke up for sunrise twice and got a really good sky on the second attempt! I am lucky also that my room offered me a panoramic view of Pyongyang's skyline with Taedong river in front. Beautiful view.

Puhŭng station, Pyongyang, North Korea.

The government takes care of everything in North Korea, even of the fun... On this sunday afternoon, all the kids were rehearsing a mass game, and the parents too. So the buildings and and the streets around were totally void...Strange mood.

You can find a famous satellite picture on the net showing a map of the Korean peninsula by night, with a huge difference between the north and south. In North Korea, there is no public lighting, and people use very low wattage bulbs in their houses. The North Korean capital is as surreal by night as it is by day. Due to the fuel crisis there's hardly any traffic to be heard after dark, and nightlife is virtually non-existent. Only monuments are lit during local festivities.

Every hour, on the hour, from 6 am to midnight, loudspeakers blast out a patriotic song.

Tourists are totally forbidden from leaving their hotels to walk around town, even though Pyongyang is safe, that’s the rule.

The outsides of the buildings are regularly painted and renovated, but inside, they are rather run down.

 

North Korea

© Eric Lafforgue

www.ericlafforgue.com

Yanggakdo International Hotel is one of the largest working hotels and the second tallest building in North Korea, after the Ryugyong Hotel. The hotel is located on Yanggakdo (Yanggak Island), two kilometers to the south-east of the center of Pyongyang, the nation's capital. It rises to an overall height of 170 meters and sports a slowly revolving restaurant on the 47th floor. The hotel is said to contain 1,000 rooms and a total floor space of 87,870 square meters. The structure was built between 1986 and 1992 by France’s Campenon Bernard Construction Company and opened in 1995.

All over the capital, the Arirang adverts (« Grand mass gymnastic and artistic performance », « Welcome to Pyongyang » and so on) warn the profane…Between August and October, takes place one of the biggest and most impressive performances in the world. The tone is set : even the Beijing Olympics ceremony can’t compete with the mass games organized by the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK). The show is held several times a week and welcomes tourists from all over the World, including the US, in one of the most isolated and despised country on earth. The well-called « mass games » are designed to emphasize group dynamics rather than individual performances as the supreme emblem of communism. Prepared by hundred of thousands performers all along the year, after their classes for the youngest of them, they are entirely dedicated to the NK’s leader Kim Jong Il and his deceased father Kim Il Sung, considered as the « Eternal president » and « sun of the 21st century »…

  

In the surroundings of Pyongyang's May Day giant Stadium, two girls are running to perform for the Arirang show. They are already dressed in their gymnastic outfits, as well as some 100,000 others who participate to the performance. They all come to honour their self-proclaimed « dear leader » Kim Jong Il, after a very hard and gruelling training, since their earliest age. Yet, it has been many years that Kim Jong Il has not shown up, formally for business reasons. But officials now admit the western medias’ assertions of illness. Anyways, Kim Jong Il or not, the mass games are held every year in Pyongyang, as a means for the regime to show to the entire world the country’s strength and good shape. To reach this sole purpose, not less than 100,000 people are involved in a choreographed show of simultaneous dancing and gymnastics. Many symbols are displayed by thousands of trained athlets, whether they are adults or even children. Hand over their heart, the young pupils sing in chorus "We are the happiest children in the world", one of the famous propaganda songs in North Korea. Many dancers make movements either with ribbons or colourful flowers named « kimjonglias » after the leader Kim Jong Il. All along the show, a live band plays a ceremonious music.

 

On the background, some 20,000 young koreans sit on the terraces, facing the spectators. They flip coloured cards at a high speed to form a fresco of animated and detailed images, changing from one to another. Each time they turn the page to create a new giant picture, they cry out. It creates a awe-inspiring atmosphere, as the shout is mixed with the noise of thousands of pages turned at the same moment. The figures are stunning : to compose these images, 2000 children are needed to make only one soldier, 20,000 for a north korean flag. Hiding a much more grim reality, the panels represent Pyongyang enlightened by night, wheat fields ready for harvest, scientists at work, atoms as symbols of the nuclear bomb and others for the reunification of two Koreas. One of the North Korea’s myths (history according to them) is recounted by the means of a huge image made by thousands of children. It represents the two pistols reportedly used by Kim Il Sung, when he founded the Anti-Japanese People’s Guerrilla Army in 1932. When the pistols appear, the audience applauses loudly. Among them, many soldiers attend the show as the ultimate award after years of good and faithful service.The thousands and thousands of boys and girls involved create a giant mass movement in the stadium which leaves the public stunned. These talented performers are used to that kind of performance: in North Korea they have to dance, sing, jump and spin around as many times as there are celebrations, always in praise of their leaders. There are mainly two sorts of shows. The first one is the classical artistic show, named "Arirang" after the famous korean folk song (whose story sometimes changes, but most often recounts the legend of a disappointed woman who hopes that her lover will return to her –metaphor of the break-up with South Korea). The second one is a more political show, which was untitled in 2008 "Prosper our country" and intended to show the country’s greatest achievements and its struggle against the foreign oppressors.

 

The show continues in the same way for one hour. Thereafter, the thousands of people present vanish in the dark and silent streets of Pyongyang, which contrast with the flood of lights and music in the stadium. Within the space of a few hours, it gives us a a strange feeling, between the real and unreal, of another universe both terrifying and fantastic.

  

Dans toute la ville, les publicités d’Arirang (« Grande représentation gymnastique et artistique de masse », « Bienvenue à Pyongyang » etc.) mettent le profane en garde …Entre août et octobre, a lieu l’une des plus grandes et impressionnantes représentations au monde. Le ton est donné : pas même la cérémonie des Jeux de Pékin ne peut rivaliser avec les mass games organisés par la République Démocratique Populaire de Corée (RDPC). Le spectacle se tient plusieurs fois par semaine et accueille des touristes du monde entier, y compris des Etats-Unis, dans l’un des pays les plus isolés et méprisés sur terre. Les biens nommés mass games (« mouvements de masse») sont conçus pour mettre en avant les dynamiques de groupe plutôt que les performances individuelles comme emblème suprême du communisme. Préparés par des centaines de milliers d’artistes tout au long de l’année, après les cours pour les plus jeunes d’entre eux, les jeux sont entièrement dédiés au leader de la Corée du Nord, Kim Jong Il, et feu son père Kim Il Sung, considéré comme l’ « Eternel président » et « soleil du 21ème siècle »…

 

Aux environs du Stade géant May Day de Pyongyang, deux filles courent pour participer au spectacle de Arirang. Elles sont déjà en costume de gymnastique, tout comme quelque 100 000 autres qui participent à la représentation. Tous viennent pour honorer leur autoproclamé « cher leader » Kim Jong Il, après un très difficile et éprouvant entraînement, depuis leur plus jeune âge. Pourtant, cela fait plusieurs années que Kim Jong Il ne s’est pas montré, formellement pour des raisons professionnelles. Mais des officiels admettent les assertions des médias occidentaux sur sa maladie. Quoi qu’il en soit, Kim Jong Il ou pas, les jeux de masse ont lieu chaque année à Pyongyang, comme moyen pour le régime de montrer au monde entier la puissance et bonne santé du pays. Pour atteindre ce seul but, pas moins de 100 000 personnes sont engagées dans une chorégraphie de danses et gymnastiques synchronisées. De nombreux symboles sont affichés par des milliers d’athlètes entraînés, qu’il s’agisse d’adultes ou même d’enfants. Main sur le cœur, les jeunes élèves chantent en chœur « Nous sommes les enfants les plus heureux du monde », l’une des chansons de propagande les plus connues en Corée du Nord. De nombreux danseurs font des mouvements avec des rubans ou avec des fleurs colorées appelées « kimjonglias », du nom du leader Kim Jong Il. Tout le long du spectacle, un orchestre joue une musique solennelle.

 

À l’arrière-plan, quelque 20 000 jeunes coréens sont assis sur les gradins, faisant face aux spectateurs. Ils retournent des cartes colorées à une grande vitesse pour former une fresque d’images animées et détaillées, changeant de l’une à l’autre. Chaque fois qu’ils tournent la page pour créer une nouvelle illustration, ils crient. Cela crée une atmosphère impressionnante, le cri étant mêlé avec le bruit de milliers de pages tournées au même moment. Les chiffres sont stupéfiants : pour composer ces images, 2000 enfants sont nécessaires pour faire un seul soldat, 20 000 pour un drapeau de la Corée du Nord. Cachant une réalité bien plus dure, les panneaux représentent Pyongyang éclairée la nuit, des champs de blé prêt à être récolté, des scientifiques au travail, des atomes comme symboles de la bombe nucléaire et d’autres pour la réunification des deux Corées. L’un des mythes de Corée du Nord (ou histoire selon eux) est relaté au moyen d’une image gigantesque faite par des milliers d’enfants. Elle représente les deux pistolets que Kim Il Sung aurait utilisés quand il a fondé l’armée de guérilla populaire anti-japonaise en 1932. Lorsque les deux pistolets apparaissent, le public applaudit bruyamment. Parmi eux, de nombreux soldats assistent au spectacle comme récompense ultime après des années de bons et loyaux services. Les milliers et milliers de garçons et de filles participant créent un mouvement de masse géant dans le stade, qui laisse le public ébahi. Ces artistes talentueux sont coutumiers de ce type de représentation : en Corée du Nord ils doivent danser, chanter, sauter et virevolter autant de fois qu’il y a de célébrations, toujours à la gloire de leurs chefs. Il existe principalement deux sortes de spectacles. Le premier est le spectacle classique artistique, appelé « Arirang » d’après la célèbre chanson folklorique coréenne (dont l’histoire quelques fois change, mais qui raconte le plus souvent la légende d’une femme déçue qui espère que son amant lui reviendra –métaphore de la séparation avec la Corée du Sud). Le second est un spectacle plus politique, qui était intitulé en 2008 « Que prospère notre pays » et qui tentait de montrer les plus grandes réalisations du pays et sa lutte contre les oppresseurs étrangers.

 

Le spectacle continue de cette façon pendant une heure. Ensuite, les milliers de personnes présentes disparaissent dans les rues sombres et silencieuses de Pyongyang, ce qui contraste avec le déluge de lumières et de musique dans le stade. En l’espace de quelques heures, cela nous donne un étrange sentiment, entre le réel et l’irréel, d’un autre univers à la fois terrifiant et fantastique.

 

© Eric Lafforgue

www.ericlafforgue.com

Pyongyang

North Korea

March 2016

A Tatra-tram in front of Pyongyang main station with some typical neurasthenic crap-propaganda. January 2004

A North Korean man bowls at the Golden Lane Bowling Alley; ten-pin bowling is a popular recreation activity amongst locals.

 

Pyongyang, North Korea, 2013

DPRK, Sept 2011 (scanned slide)

View from the largely empty Yanggakdo Hotel tucked away from the Korean public on an island in the middle of the Taedong river.

 

It's an anarchic place in the North Korean capital: there's a nine-hole golf course out front, a ten-pin bowling alley, rumours of a brothel in the basement, and an Egyptian-themed karaoke bar.

  

DPRK, Pyongyang, Okt. 2015

The Pyongyang traffic girls are on their way out. Modern, low voltage LED based traffic lights have been installed throughout Pyongyang and were functional throughout the stay. The girls were allegedly laid off earlier in the year, however some have been retained in case of long-term power shortages.

Read more about it here: bit.ly/1HGQaJt

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© 2014 All rights reserved. All photos are owned by Reuben Teo Jia Chyau. For permissions to use, please contact him at reubenteo@gmail.com

  

Potong Gate (보통문 | 普通門) is the former western gate of Pyongyang, North Korea, from when the city was surrounded by walls.

 

It's current form dates from 1473, however the wooden pavilion was rebuilt in 1955 following the destruction of Pyongyang during the Korean War (1950-53).

 

Picture taken during a visit to North Korea in 2002.

A handout photo taken and relesed on August 19, 2015 by Mute records shows Slovenian avant-garde music group Laibach in Pyongyang. With a 45-minute set that included cover versions of "Edelweiss" and "Do-Re-Mi" from the "Sound of Music", Laibach became the first foreign rock band to play a gig in North Korea.

"AFP PHOTO / MUTE / JOERUND F PEDERSEN"

Close-up of a Pyongyang apartment block, from the Juche Tower.

While she did love the camera it still was hard to catch the right expression.

The Pyongyang skyline as seen from the top of the Juche Tower. In the forn the river Taedong. The pyramid shaped building is the infamous 150 story Ryugyong hotel.

Pyongyang Metro Station

Commuters on the bank of the Taedong river opposite the Juche tower.

Boarding an overcrowded Pyongyang tram is not easy. However, if you are young and agile you can always find a place and even save the fare. Seen in Munsu Street, Pyongyang.

Pyongyang

North Korea

March 2016

The Reunification Arch outside Pyongyang on the main highway to Sariwon, Democratic People's Republic of Korea.

Pyongyang

North Korea

March 2016

A brand new South Korean lorry with a number plate indicating the North Korean People’s Army – another unwanted result of the famous Sunshine Policy. Still, I tend to think that the Sunshine Policy was a more sensible approach than the current S. Korean government’s reckless confrontation course.

View from the Koryo Hotel, Pyomgyang, North Korea (DPRK).

Pyongyang

North Korea

March 2016

North Korean train arriving at Pyongyang station.

 

Kim Il Sung square in the centre of Pyongyang.

 

DPRK, Sept 2011 (scanned slide)

My last picture of an amazing trip into the DPRK. Hope to go back there some day!

The view from the Juche Tower in Pyongyang, Korea. July 2015.

Downtown Pyongyang as seen from the 28th floor of the Koryo Hotel.

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