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Plain Graham - after being colored with the spray food coloring. You can imagine variations on this theme where you put down traces (pretzel sticks?) before spraying the green stuff, to mask true printed layers on the board.
Part of the circuitry snacks project: Edible models of functioning electronic circuits. Designed for fun, for geeks, for kids, and for teaching and learning electronics.
All the modules for the new setup 2009 to capture insects in flight are now ready. Just a few software adjusts now.
Seen Here: The PCB all soldered, except the ICSP header (forgot that...)
So, today my PCB for the LED matrix arrived from BatchPCB! For what I paid, the PCB arrived fairly quickly - I ordered it on the 15/02 I believe, and it arrived 11/03 -- 26 days, which is pretty good (they state 19 business days).
The quality is very, very impressive - far better than anything I could pull off at home. The silkscreen and soldermask makes it look really nice, too.
Soldering it was a joy, although there was a LOT to solder and it's all surface mounted.
I had a few problems at first; it wasn't lighting the matrix at all properly but I soon realised with my new design (transistors on the cathodes) I have to write the transistors HIGH to get a LOW on the cathode, so a quick line of code changed to get that working.
Then for some reason the top half of every letter was flipped. It turns out this was my fault: I messed up when making the package for the LED matrix in Eagle, swapping the matrix's 5th cathode for my system's 8th, 6th for 7th, 7th for 6th and 8th for 5th. This was fairly easy to fix in code, however.
Finally USB isn't working to program or communicate, but I can configure the FT232RL chip (after all, it's sending the clock pulse that's driving my ATmega168). I think I have an idea of what's causing this, but I'm not sure yet.
My PCB order from Golden Pheonix arrived, a day less than two weeks after ordering them. Not bad turnaround!
The PCBs themselves are really nice and I have loads (ordered a panel though I'll only need one or two of each), though I'm yet to actually solder them up. I plan to use some solder paste I just got and reflow them under the grill, which I hope will work.
The only problem I've identified is that one of the PCBs is physically broken (a small bit snapped off when being cut presumably) which breaks two traces, but they'll be easy to fix with a small wire if needed.
They are for my current project - see if you can guess what it is!
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Nikon N65
Outdated Konica 200 Film
One of my obligatory shots for checking a camera - Panama City Beach skyline from the fishing pier at St Andrews State Park
This photo is licensed under a Creative Commons license. If you use this photo, please list the photo credit as "matthew mcglynn / recordinghacks.com" and link the credit to recordinghacks.com.
Moem was cutting a bit of PCB for one of her projects, a circuitboard book cover for a small notebook.
The PCB populated:Leonardo Tiny Atmega32U4 Development Board, a couple of small push-buttons, trimpot, LDR & RTC. All arranged around the outside of the PCB.
www.jaycar.co.nz/duinotech-leonardo-tiny-atmega32u4-devel...
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Under Creative Commons license "Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike CC BY-NC-SA."
This license lets others remix, tweak, and build upon our work non-commercially, as long as you credit us and license our new creations under the identical terms.
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...with a grill!
I needed to try out my solder paste and wanted to reflow solder these parts, especially the tricky switch and SD card which would be a pain to solder by hand. I don't have an IR oven or a hot plate (or a reflow machine!) but I do have a standard home grill and figured it would be perfect: the fan moves the air, keeping everything the same temperature while the heating elements are overhead and far away enough to heat uniformly over the surface.
It took 5 minutes from turning on until every joint had reflowed (they started reflowing at 4min) and then I left them for a minute out of the grill to cool down. They seem to have soldered perfectly!
I'm still waiting for the parts for the other two PCBs, but the method seems to be great - and loads quicker than doing it by hand!
P.S. yea, it's not a very well regulated temperature, but I don't have a thermometer that could cope so it's pretty difficult to measure
PCB to build a version of the Atari Punk Console. Several options are built into the bpoard to allow the easy evaluation of external CV or the use of LDR to further bend the sounds or even add on an optional external LFO, and start to create some really strange noises.
Coming soon to Tindie and Ebay form Electro-Resales
It is one PCB but includes two different circuits. Both of them are for a client that wants to put a few of those units to remote control his farms. It is not the full control circuit just the "glue peripherals" of the main unit (plus a bunch of extra sensors just in case that I want to use one of the boards somewhere else).
The dimensions are for a Hammond enclosure and in order to use them as separate circuits I have to cut them using a hex saw. The panelization is be the best choice here but having in mind the low production volume... the cost will increase dramatically.
Finally the result of 8 months of reconsidering and redesigning.
KiCAD was used as an EDA tool to replace Eagle. The entire layout + schematics were redone from scratch.
This new version features:
128Mbit 16-bit PSRAM
4Mbit 8-bit SRAM
200/400kgate FPGA
100MHz 32-bit uC
2 SPI or 1 SPI + 1 SD native (4-bit)
Buttons: Reset, Freeze
LEDs: Ready, Read, Write
2 switching regulators (3.3V, 1.2V)
2 LDOs (2.5V, 1.8V)
Audio DAC
auto region CIC clone
autonomous (async) + SNES (sync) clock
backup battery (e.g. RTC)
Bus connect: A+B Addr + Data
Interfaces:
SD-Card
USB
2x UART (1 for ISP)
JTAG