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Hi there !
For this one, I needed 3 nights to get some good result as the signal seems to be very faint (especially for the O3). With that, Waxing gibbous Moon and some clouds entered in the battle. :D
I had some issue popping the blue O3, that's the reason I'll retry this object in the future, trying to get more details on the Nebula and its surroundings,
Clear Skies :)
Lights : 58 x 600 sec (9h40)
Darks : 60 ~ Offset : 100 ~ Flats : 60
Setup :
Camera : ZWO ASI 2600 MC
Main Scope : Skywatcher Esprit 100 ED
Mount : Skywatcher EQ6-R
Guide Camera : ZWO ASI 120MM Mini
Guide Scope : ZWO Mini Guide Scope
Filters : Antlia ALP-T
Others : ZWO ASIAIR PRO, ZWO EAF
A great antithesis to todays lousy weather. I actually did something unusual to this image that I wanted to try for quite some time. Can you spot what that is?
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More about this image here
Background - smoko-stock.deviantart.com/gallery/6800113?offset=48#/d1w...
Fairy - browse.deviantart.com/resources/stockart/?q=music#/dvjbny
Flowers - browse.deviantart.com/resources/stockart/?q=flowers&o...
Butterflies- Shoofly Stk @ DA
Corfe Castle and the Milky Way || Dorset, UK
I’ve been a relatively slow at releasing new images recently. So, I thought I’d share one that’s been bubbling around in my head for a while. Here is the magnificent 11th century Corfe Castle covered in snow, offset by the lights of Corfe village and the majestic milky way.
This is actually my third attempt at capturing this scene, and I couldn’t believe my luck on Monday evening when I arrived, the hills were still adorned with snow and the skies were clearing, allowing me to finally get it out of my system. I hope you like it!
Technical Rubbish:
Gear: Nikon D810, Nikkor 14-24 f/2.8, Fornax LT II, iOptron Polarscope, Skywatcher Equatorial Wedge, FLM Tripod and Ballhead
This is a composite of the following frames.
1x 18mm | ISO 64 | f/8 | 30sec (Foreground/Castle)
4x 18mm | ISO 64 | f/11 | 60sec (Village lights/Car trails)
1x 18mm | ISO 64 | f/16 | 180sec (Diffraction spikes on the street lights)
1x 18mm | ISO 800 | f/8 | 30sec (Not included in the final image and was only used as a reference for the light pollution dome)
21 x 18mm | ISO 400 | f/4 | 180sec | 5500K (Milky Way Light Frames)
20 x ISO 64 | 1/8000th | 5500K (BIAS Offset Frames)
8 x ISO 400 | 180sec | 5500K (Dark Offset Frames)
Total Capture Time: 94.5 mins
The Milky Way was calibrated, stacked and arcsine stretched in PixInsight. I had hoped to plate solve the galaxy and use photometric colour calibration to ensure a natural colour, however I just can’t get it to properly plate solve automatically. I think I’m going to have to generate a distortion map of my Nikkor 14-24 for this purpose in the future.
The foreground elements were captured in blue hour and RAW corrected in Lightroom. The whole lot was then squirted into Photoshop and blended together.
Many thanks,
Will
Not as PS'ed as you might think...a label (Now gone) over the middle area changed it's rate of oxidation...
old offset printer sitting out there all on its own... actually an empty shell left behind by the demolition of the surrounding neighbourhood for a road bypass
Cream of the Crop pool as most interesting.
We don`t have our tree up yet but, here`s some Christmas Tree Bokeh I had put aside from last year.
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DSC9434
This is a scene that when I shot it, I knew Sandra and I would end up with similar images. It is such a distinctive juxtaposition of dunes and mountains. That said, I think our slightly different compositional approaches plus the difference of her square format and my traditional 2x3, present a different feel.
When I think of sand dunes and photography, I think black and white. The natural white environment coupled with shadow areas is just made for B/W interpretation. Here are my attempts to capture the beauty of White Sands National Park in this medium. Most are shot in hard light, but some are early or late in the day, some even approach high key. White Sands looks great in any wardrobe.
In late October, I made a trip to New Mexico to shoot the dunes at White Sands National Park. I hooked up with my close friend and photographer, Sandra Herber. www.flickr.com/photos/sandraherber/ We were at White Sands four days, made eight excursions into the dunes, hiked over 20 miles and shot close to 2,000 photos between us.
We are posting our images at the same time and it will be interesting to see how we handled being in the same locations together. For safety reasons and for the fun of it, we hiked the dunes together, sometimes pointing our lenses in the same direction, other times wandering apart. I am sure we got some similar shots, but it will be interesting to see those that are different as we each have our own way of looking at things, as well as having different focal length coverage. Then there is the processing aspect.
To say White Sands is magical is an understatement. As photographers, we talk about the light, emphasize the light, are critical about the light. The dunes at White Sands react in amazing ways to the change in light, offering different looks, revealing various personalities. It is this diversity of the dunes that I wanted to capture then, and present here now.
I'm sure loads of people have already done this... don't know why I didn't think of it sooner! Using jumpers with 1x4 bricks with grooves.
Not entirely sure what use it will be - I think it will be great to create stable interlocking sections in models (the three parts are not attached)
A use of this technique is here
Thought of a name for this technique - the Groovy Jumper!
Saw this whilst driving past Howden station. I was kinda hoping the tree would be central on the barn but the offset to the left works OK I think.
I know, it's an oldie but a goodie. I had a link to a version of this, but it is deleted. Made my own, and color-coded it. Saved on Flickr as a back-up.
Just logging this before I improve it by adding vertical serifs.
This version is one plate lower at 13 plates, meaning the central crossbars on the F and H are now vertically symmetrical. Next time I'll try 15, as that will make using SNOT a lot easier for more complex letters. Currently there is no SNOT, just offset.
The T is too wide but I was interested to try some 10 LDU kerning between the T and the H, and that was the only way I could figure of achieving it.
I’ve seen a few things like this over the years that would take about 10 steps to make a change of 1 stud width. I decided to challenge myself with this version that would take 40 steps to make a change of 1 brick width. Each step is approximately 0.5 LDU. Over this range of 16 steps the difference is only the thickness of a plate. This relies on combining a few known offset techniques. The base takes advantage of technic bricks having a hole position slightly different to 1x1 brick modified with stud on one side. By having 4 technic bricks oriented one way and another 4 oriented upside down to them it gets that offset in both directions. The 3LDU version of the minifigure neck bracket is also used to get another set of divisions.
ANCHE SU
Camera: Nikon F80
Lens: AF Nikkor type-D
Film: Fujifilm Fujicolor 100 ISO 100/21° 35mm (expired film 06/2008)
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