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The island fort of Murud Janjira off the coast of Maharashtra, near Alibaug. The fort was built by the Siddhis and was never conquered in its proud 900 year history. Not by the Mughals, the Marathas, the Portuguese or the English! When the Indian Union was formed, the Siddhis acceded into the union and hence ceased to exist as a separate kingdom.
You can find more details here.
Snap info - Taken off a hill on the road leading into Murud village. This is the first place on the road that you get a glimpse of the majestic fort which has stood the tide of time and even to this day remains as solid as ever! The boatmen who took us to the fort and back speak of the huge waves during monsoon and also during the horrendous Tsunami of 2004 off the coast of Thailand which caused huge waves even at Murud.
View LARGE to see the minute details of the village at the bottom
Janjira - the invincible fort in the sea... Just after we got off the boat and got into the fort I turned around and saw this. The tide was rising rapidly and had covered half the steps by the time we were ready to return to land...
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Murud-Janjira ( pronunciation (help·info)) is the local name for a fort situated on an island just off the coastal village of Murud, in the Raigad district of Maharashtra, India.[1] It was occupied by the Siddis and is famous for being the only fort along India's Western coast that remained undefeated despite Dutch, Maratha and English East India Company attacks.[
The word Janjira is not native to India, and may have originated after the Arabic word Jazeera, which means an island. Murud was once known in Marathi as Habsan ("of Habshi" or Abyssinian). The name of the fort is a concatenation of the Konkani and Arabic words for Island, "morod" and "jazeera". The word "morod" is peculiar to Konkani and is absent in Marathi.
[edit]Major features
Murud-Janjira Fort is situated on an oval-shaped rock off the Arabian Sea coast near the port town of Murud, 165 km (103 mi) south of Mumbai. Janjira is considered one of the strongest marine forts in India. The fort is approached by sailboats from Rajapuri jetty. The main gate of the fort faces Rajapuri on the shore and can be seen only when one is quite close to it. It has a small postern gate towards the open sea for escape.
The fort has 19 rounded bastions, still intact. There are many cannons of native and European make rusting on the bastions. Now in ruins, the fort in its heyday was a full-fledged living fort with all the necessary facilities, e.g., palaces, quarters for officers, mosque, two big fresh water tank, etc. On the outer wall flanking the main gate, there is a sculpture depicting a tiger-like beast clasping elephants in its claws. There are prominent "ASHOK-CHAKRAS" on all major gates of the fort Janjira. There are images of playing elephants, lions etc.
The sculpture on the main gate
The palace of the Nawabs of Janjira at Murud is still in good shape. The palace was self-sufficient and must have support of the locals. It has secret gates to hide and escape. Its construction is unique and very strong.[citation needed]
Originally the fort was a small wooden structure built by a Koli chief in the late 15th century. It was captured by Pir Khan, a general of Nizamshah of Ahmednagar. Later, the fort was strengthened by Malik Ambar, the Abyssinian-origin Siddi regent of Ahmednagar kings. From then onward, Siddis became independent, owing allegiance to Adilshah and the Mughals as dictated by the times.The last surviving prince Roby Philip lives in New york.
[edit]History
Inside the fort
The fort was originally built in 15th century on a smaller scale by a local Maratha-Fisherman Chieftain- Ram Patil to protect his people from pirates/ thieves and was known as " Medhekot". He was a fearless man with independent bent of mind who was quite popular with the local fishermen. Nizam, the ruler from Ahmadnagar sent one of his Siddi commanders Piram Khan, who came with three ships armed with necessary weapons and soldiers and captured the fort. Piram Khan was succeeded by Burhan Khan, who demolished the original fort and built an impregnable much bigger, 22 acre, stone fort sometime in between 1567 and 1571. The fort was called 'Jazeere Mahroob Jazeera ' which in Arabic means an Island. Siddhi Ambersatak was nominated as Commander of the fort.
Despite their repeated attempts, the Portuguese, the British and the Marathas failed to subdue the power of the Siddi's, who were themselves allied with the Mughal Empire. Major historical figures from Murud-Janjira include men such as Yahya Saleh and Sidi Yaqub. The fort has a tunnel which opens in Rajpuri. The fort was made by a mixture of lead, sand and gul.
The Marathas led by Shivaji attempted to scale the 12 meters high Granite walls but failed in all his attempts. His son Sambhaji even attempted to tunnel his way into the fort but was unsuccessful in all his attempts.[3]
Janjira ruins
The small pond inside Janjira fort
In the year 1736, Siddis of Murud-Janjira set out to recapture Raigarh from the ravaging forces of Baji Rao, on 19 April 1736, Chimnaji attacked the gathering forces in the encampments of the Siddis during the Battle of Riwas near Riwas, when the confrontation ended 1500 Siddi's including their leader Siddi Sat were killed. Peace was concluded in September 1736, but the Siddis were confined to Janjira, Gowalkot and Anjanwel.
Today is the auspicious day of Gudi Padwa - a day to start afresh, new hopes new ventures perhaps new liaisons of business and buying of new houses and things.
I came out on Bandra Bazar road that is a war field as a new pipe line is being laid and both ends have been opened up, you can no more enter via Boran Road or via Chinchpokli Road.
The Boran road is in a mess since a month no mukadm no supervision..
Before one road is finished two more roads are dug up, and I think we all understand that good work has been undertaken but keeping the convenience of senior citizens and little kids is important to, and its exam time.
I hope the versatile youth corporator reads my blogs .
There is no warning sign that the road is closed , ditches kept open but really who cares- we are born to take shit as it comes.
Near Pahelvi Restaurant an open tunnel and motorcyclists have fallen in ..
Well Happy Gudi Padwa Jai Maharashtra.
I came out on Bandra Bazar Road to shoot the Ram Mandir Gudi but was told that it would be placed after noon.
I shot the Bandra Ram Mandir yesterday.
Normally and even at this moment as I write normally on Gudi Padwa day I left Mumbai heading by boat to Alibagh and than a creaky ride of 4 hours by bus to my favorite haunt Murud Janjira..to shoot the Murud Janjira Bullock Cart Race.
I am in two minds now I have a viral infection almost akin to chicken pox, that has grounded me , and I am worried if I take the punishing trip I might aggravate the problem I am faced with.
I missed the last Gudi Padwa bullock cart race because of the Moharam injury on my right hand.
So this is a Catch 22 Situation for me.
Also I have to post the pictures of Alibahh Bullock Cart Race ..
And for the moment Alibagh is famous for Vaishali Patil, nun beatings , rich mans retreat-
With my wife
My only escort
Our marriage
Was crumbling
So we came here
To give our life
Another chance
Remove the blots
On our marriage
Report..
We luckily did
Not have to
File a divorce
At the family court
#murudjanjira
Famous for being the only fort along India's Western coast that remained undefeated despite Dutch, Maratha and English East India Company attacks, Murud-Janjira, which was occupied by the Siddis, is the local name for a fort situated on an island just off the coastal village of Murud, in the Raigad district of Maharashtra, India
Halfway through our boat ride towards the Janzira fort, we heard Ismail get up and start talking to all of us - he was recounting the history and the glory of the fort so passionately, that we kept photographing and videotaping him despite being in the middle of such beautiful surroundings.
The white and green structure is of Vinayaka Restaurant Murud, the finest Malwani cuisine, rice thali, prawn thali ..each thali for Rs 100.
Most refreshing is the Kokam water that he serves as an appetizer..
Sunil my friend owns the restaurant and his bullock cart runs at the race on Gudi Padwa .
Normally most of the photographers of Mumbai park themselves at this open air restaurant , Sunil is very fond of me and Mr Anil Bhartiya photo journo and Guru.
This trip to the caves would have not been possible without my dear friend Kiran Batham who took us in his car from Murud and dropped us at the Murud Depot for the 6 hour ride back to Mumbai today.
About Kuda Mandad Caves Near Janjira
There is a group of ancient rock-cut Buddhist caves in central Maharashtra, near the sea, at Janjira creek. These are Kuda Caves - 26 caves made for Buddhist mendicants some 1700 - 2100 years ago.
Buddhist temples near ancient port
Often the oldest Buddhist rock-cut caves were made near port cities and on ancient trade routes. Seems that Kuda Caves were not an exception to this. Most likely here was located the ancient port of Mandagora mentioned by Ptolemy, ancient Greco-Roman geographer.
Caves were cut for Buddhist mendicants in Hinayana tradition, in 1st century BC - 3rd century AD. Later, in 6th - 7th century AD there were made additions in Mahayana tradition - including numerous sculptures of Buddha.
26 caves
Kuda Caves are 26 rock-cut caves and 11 rock-cut cisterns. Some count more caves here, for example 28 - but these other caves are just small chambers.
Caves are located some 45 - 60 m above the sea level, they are cut in the side of some 75 m high hill.
All caves are located in compact group, outer caves are not further than 200 m away. Entrances open to the south-west, there opens beautiful view on fine landscape - estuary with steep hills around it.
Researchers have numbered the caves - from Cave I to Cave XXVI.
Part of caves - caves I-XV are located somewhat lover but caves XVI-XXVI are located some 12 m higher.
Sculptures, inscriptions and paintings
For thousands of years these caves have experienced the impact of storms and rain. Natural forces have erased sculptures, inscriptions and drawings in the front part of caves. Less exposed inscriptions and artwork though have been preserved.
Interior of Kuda caves for most part is plain and not adorned, caves are quite similar.
There is an exception though - Cave VI has lavish interior with many reliefs.
Walls of caves were plastered with earth and rice-shaff. Several caves contain traces of paintings.
Many caves contain inscriptions, Cave VI contains even six inscriptions. Five of these inscriptions (in Cave VI) belong to 5th - 6th c. AD. All other inscriptions have writing characteristic for 1st century BC. Nearly all inscriptions mention the names of donors to the monastery and the donated gift - cave, cistern.
Five caves are chaityas - temples - with dagobas - shrines - inside. Other caves are leni - created for dwelling. Lenis for most part consist of verandah with a door and window in the rear wall. Behind the rear wall there is cell or chamber with cells with rock-cut benches where monks slept.
Doorframes contain a groove - once here were placed wooden doors.
As it is common in ancient rock-cut architecture, the design of caves strives to imitate wooden architecture.
Description of caves
Cave I consists of verandah with two pillars and two pilasters. Walls in antechamber contain traces of plaster. Cell above the door contains inscription which tells that the cave has been donated by some Sivabhuti.
Cave II has small forecourt. Walls also contain traces of plaster.
Cave III contains traces of inscription, mentioning the person who donated this cave.
Cave IV contains front court with benches and steps leading to verandah. Verandah has two pillars and two ornamented pilasters, cave is large.
Cave V also is large, contains traces of plaster. Cistern in front. Verandah has one pillar. Cave contains three inscriptions. One mentions the person who donated cistern and ends with swastika. Second inscription has five lines and is nearly unreadable - it hints at some donors. Third inscription is inside the verandah and consists of six lines and mentions that cave has been donated by female ascetic Padumanika.
Cave VI is chaitya and the most interesting cave in this monument. Forecourt adorned with sculpture of front part of standing elephant - initially there were two but one is lost. In the front of cave there is small sculpture of Buddha, seated on a throne, upheld by naga. Two vidyadharas hold a crown over Buddhas head. Above this sculptural group there is arch supported by sculptures of alligators and with two flying figures above. Interior of the cave is adorned also with sculptures of Buddha, Avalokitesvara, women, lion with dwarves, elephant, bull, tiger. Main hall contains sculptures added here in 5th - 6th century, sculptures have remnants of paint on them. Whole interior of the cave - columns, ceiling, walls - contain traces of plaster and painting. Inside the cave there are several inscriptions left by donors. Left end of verandah contains long inscription with beautiful calligraphy, in seven lines. This inscription also is left by donor.
Cave VII has a plain forecourt with two cisterns in front. Verandah has two columns and two pilasters. Walls have remnants of plaster. Left end wall contains inscription in four lines which tells that cave has been donated by physicist Somadeva. One cistern also contains inscription left by donor.
Cave VIII is an oblong chamber with benches for monks.
Cave IX is chaitya. It has verandah with two columns and one pilaster, it contains chamber with dagoba. Walls contain traces of plaster. Inscription left by donor.
Cave X has small forecourt, damaged front part. Oblong hall inside with a cell to the right. Inscription left by donor - gardener.
Cave XI has open verandah, damaged front part. On the right end wall of verandah inscription left by donor.
Cave XII is in bad condition, with verandah nearly lost. Contains inscription telling that this is dwelling-cave of Goyamma, daughter of minister. Inscription starts with an etching of lion.
Cave XIII has an open verandah, this is dwelling. Contains inscription left by donor.
Cave XIV is similar to previous cave. Inscription of donor. In front of cave cistern with inscription.
Cave XV is chaitya. It located somewhat further away - some 50 m from previous cave. Verandah has four columns. Contains shrine with dagoba. Traces of plaster on the walls and roof, traces of paintings on columns. Well preserved inscription in one long line, made by donor.
With this cave ends the first "line" of Kuda Caves and next cave belongs to the next group.
Cave XVI has two cisterns in front. Front part of cave has a bench along the facade. Cave itself is an oblong chamber and cell at rear wall. Cave contains inscription left by donor - nun. Another inscription is left on the cistern - this cistern has been donated by a gardener.
Cave XVII is similar to the previous one, contains traces of plaster. Inscription by donor - trader and house-keeper.
Cave XVIII contains traces of plaster on walls and inscription left by donor - some merchant.
Cave XIX has plain forecourt, verandah and cell. Remnants of plaster on walls.
Cave XX is a bit harder to access. Front part is nearly lost.
Cave XXI was planned as chaitya but not finished. It has plain forecourt and two roughly cut pillars leading into verandah. Chamber is unfinished, there is rock massif intended as dagoba. Cistern in front with inscription left by donor - merchant.
Cave XXII has a court with bench in front. Cave consists of chamber, also with a bench. Cistern in front of cave.
Cave XXIII contains inscription left by donor.
Cave XXIV contains inscription left by trader - donor. Front part of verandah is broken.
Cave XXV also has lost front part. Part of verandah and chamber behind it.
Cave XXVI has a common wall with cave XXV, it is partly broken. Small chamber behind verandah.
Famous for being the only fort along India's Western coast that remained undefeated despite Dutch, Maratha and English East India Company attacks, Murud-Janjira, which was occupied by the Siddis, is the local name for a fort situated on an island just off the coastal village of Murud, in the Raigad district of Maharashtra, India
This trip to the caves would have not been possible without my dear friend Kiran Batham who took us in his car from Murud and dropped us at the Murud Depot for the 6 hour ride back to Mumbai today.
About Kuda Mandad Caves Near Janjira
There is a group of ancient rock-cut Buddhist caves in central Maharashtra, near the sea, at Janjira creek. These are Kuda Caves - 26 caves made for Buddhist mendicants some 1700 - 2100 years ago.
Buddhist temples near ancient port
Often the oldest Buddhist rock-cut caves were made near port cities and on ancient trade routes. Seems that Kuda Caves were not an exception to this. Most likely here was located the ancient port of Mandagora mentioned by Ptolemy, ancient Greco-Roman geographer.
Caves were cut for Buddhist mendicants in Hinayana tradition, in 1st century BC - 3rd century AD. Later, in 6th - 7th century AD there were made additions in Mahayana tradition - including numerous sculptures of Buddha.
26 caves
Kuda Caves are 26 rock-cut caves and 11 rock-cut cisterns. Some count more caves here, for example 28 - but these other caves are just small chambers.
Caves are located some 45 - 60 m above the sea level, they are cut in the side of some 75 m high hill.
All caves are located in compact group, outer caves are not further than 200 m away. Entrances open to the south-west, there opens beautiful view on fine landscape - estuary with steep hills around it.
Researchers have numbered the caves - from Cave I to Cave XXVI.
Part of caves - caves I-XV are located somewhat lover but caves XVI-XXVI are located some 12 m higher.
Sculptures, inscriptions and paintings
For thousands of years these caves have experienced the impact of storms and rain. Natural forces have erased sculptures, inscriptions and drawings in the front part of caves. Less exposed inscriptions and artwork though have been preserved.
Interior of Kuda caves for most part is plain and not adorned, caves are quite similar.
There is an exception though - Cave VI has lavish interior with many reliefs.
Walls of caves were plastered with earth and rice-shaff. Several caves contain traces of paintings.
Many caves contain inscriptions, Cave VI contains even six inscriptions. Five of these inscriptions (in Cave VI) belong to 5th - 6th c. AD. All other inscriptions have writing characteristic for 1st century BC. Nearly all inscriptions mention the names of donors to the monastery and the donated gift - cave, cistern.
Five caves are chaityas - temples - with dagobas - shrines - inside. Other caves are leni - created for dwelling. Lenis for most part consist of verandah with a door and window in the rear wall. Behind the rear wall there is cell or chamber with cells with rock-cut benches where monks slept.
Doorframes contain a groove - once here were placed wooden doors.
As it is common in ancient rock-cut architecture, the design of caves strives to imitate wooden architecture.
Description of caves
Cave I consists of verandah with two pillars and two pilasters. Walls in antechamber contain traces of plaster. Cell above the door contains inscription which tells that the cave has been donated by some Sivabhuti.
Cave II has small forecourt. Walls also contain traces of plaster.
Cave III contains traces of inscription, mentioning the person who donated this cave.
Cave IV contains front court with benches and steps leading to verandah. Verandah has two pillars and two ornamented pilasters, cave is large.
Cave V also is large, contains traces of plaster. Cistern in front. Verandah has one pillar. Cave contains three inscriptions. One mentions the person who donated cistern and ends with swastika. Second inscription has five lines and is nearly unreadable - it hints at some donors. Third inscription is inside the verandah and consists of six lines and mentions that cave has been donated by female ascetic Padumanika.
Cave VI is chaitya and the most interesting cave in this monument. Forecourt adorned with sculpture of front part of standing elephant - initially there were two but one is lost. In the front of cave there is small sculpture of Buddha, seated on a throne, upheld by naga. Two vidyadharas hold a crown over Buddhas head. Above this sculptural group there is arch supported by sculptures of alligators and with two flying figures above. Interior of the cave is adorned also with sculptures of Buddha, Avalokitesvara, women, lion with dwarves, elephant, bull, tiger. Main hall contains sculptures added here in 5th - 6th century, sculptures have remnants of paint on them. Whole interior of the cave - columns, ceiling, walls - contain traces of plaster and painting. Inside the cave there are several inscriptions left by donors. Left end of verandah contains long inscription with beautiful calligraphy, in seven lines. This inscription also is left by donor.
Cave VII has a plain forecourt with two cisterns in front. Verandah has two columns and two pilasters. Walls have remnants of plaster. Left end wall contains inscription in four lines which tells that cave has been donated by physicist Somadeva. One cistern also contains inscription left by donor.
Cave VIII is an oblong chamber with benches for monks.
Cave IX is chaitya. It has verandah with two columns and one pilaster, it contains chamber with dagoba. Walls contain traces of plaster. Inscription left by donor.
Cave X has small forecourt, damaged front part. Oblong hall inside with a cell to the right. Inscription left by donor - gardener.
Cave XI has open verandah, damaged front part. On the right end wall of verandah inscription left by donor.
Cave XII is in bad condition, with verandah nearly lost. Contains inscription telling that this is dwelling-cave of Goyamma, daughter of minister. Inscription starts with an etching of lion.
Cave XIII has an open verandah, this is dwelling. Contains inscription left by donor.
Cave XIV is similar to previous cave. Inscription of donor. In front of cave cistern with inscription.
Cave XV is chaitya. It located somewhat further away - some 50 m from previous cave. Verandah has four columns. Contains shrine with dagoba. Traces of plaster on the walls and roof, traces of paintings on columns. Well preserved inscription in one long line, made by donor.
With this cave ends the first "line" of Kuda Caves and next cave belongs to the next group.
Cave XVI has two cisterns in front. Front part of cave has a bench along the facade. Cave itself is an oblong chamber and cell at rear wall. Cave contains inscription left by donor - nun. Another inscription is left on the cistern - this cistern has been donated by a gardener.
Cave XVII is similar to the previous one, contains traces of plaster. Inscription by donor - trader and house-keeper.
Cave XVIII contains traces of plaster on walls and inscription left by donor - some merchant.
Cave XIX has plain forecourt, verandah and cell. Remnants of plaster on walls.
Cave XX is a bit harder to access. Front part is nearly lost.
Cave XXI was planned as chaitya but not finished. It has plain forecourt and two roughly cut pillars leading into verandah. Chamber is unfinished, there is rock massif intended as dagoba. Cistern in front with inscription left by donor - merchant.
Cave XXII has a court with bench in front. Cave consists of chamber, also with a bench. Cistern in front of cave.
Cave XXIII contains inscription left by donor.
Cave XXIV contains inscription left by trader - donor. Front part of verandah is broken.
Cave XXV also has lost front part. Part of verandah and chamber behind it.
Cave XXVI has a common wall with cave XXV, it is partly broken. Small chamber behind verandah.
patriotism
refuge of scoundrel and thieves
taunted barren leaves
a mother for her dead son grieves
people like bush weapons of mass destruction
a nation forever deceives..
a spider like web on the dead soul
of humanity weaves
Famous for being the only fort along India's Western coast that remained undefeated despite Dutch, Maratha and English East India Company attacks, Murud-Janjira, which was occupied by the Siddis, is the local name for a fort situated on an island just off the coastal village of Murud, in the Raigad district of Maharashtra, India
This is a close range view of the Murud Janjira fort. Taken from within the fort.
I was precariously hanging out of one of the view points for this :) lol! :)
Famous for being the only fort along India's Western coast that remained undefeated despite Dutch, Maratha and English East India Company attacks, Murud-Janjira, which was occupied by the Siddis, is the local name for a fort situated on an island just off the coastal village of Murud, in the Raigad district of Maharashtra, India
Earlier I used to go to Alibagh on Holi to shoot the bullock cart races on the beach , and to Murud Janjira to shoot the same on Gudi Padwa. Than came the ban on these races and I stopped going to both the places .
I was told there was one in Murud this year but I did not go , its a long trip , very tiring and if the race is not there you come back empty handed , and will my deteriorating health I avoid such excursions.
But I miss the races the rising adrenalin I am not scared of Death I rush into the path of the racing bulls and take my shots
And every one knows me as the colorful mad photographer from Mumbai.
And it was these races , that taught me timing , I hated panning , and taking risks ..
And for all this I must thank my gurus Shreekanth Malushte who bought me here the first time and than there was no looking back .Late Prof BW Jatkar who helped me a lot shooting this form of action and the seagulls on the boat that bought us fromGateway of India to Alibagh.
And last but not the least my very humble teacher mentor Mr Anil Bhartiya a great photojournalist and fine art photographer too.
But it was Jayant Dhulap at Alibagh his wife Sharda daughter Abha that extended their hospitality to shoot the races at Alibagh .
And Kiran Batham my friend from Murud .
Shooting the bullock cart races on the beach barefeet is an awesome high.. and I have documented this sport form at my Flickr photostream.