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A tiny patch of paradise, sheltering us from the winds. A unique individual named Chuck provided both entertainment and outrageous hospitality. He ended up driving us across the island so we could hike down the cliff to Kalaupapa, and doing it again to pick us up. Lest I ruin his reputation by implying that he is a prince of a guy with sterling character, I should mention that he's an obnoxious redneck and I'm not convinced we ever saw him sober. Even so, he had us in stitches with his stories and one-liners.