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Split Apparel - Beast Mode Tee for KARIO FIT - LEGACY ATHLETIC
marketplace.secondlife.com/p/SPLIT-APPAREL-Beast-Mode-Tee...
I used a solar filter which renders the sun WHITE, not the orange you see here. The sun is SO bright that you have to stretch the data to see some of the grain, and orange/yellow helps to make the solar details easier to see. However since this is a STACK most of that good data is lost in the stacking process.
What is a stack? Photoshop people will know this as a "layer" but instead of using screen mode or lighten mode as one with a star trail, I used ***** mode.
For information about how Venus' motion differed according to your location on earth see: transitofvenus.nl/wp/where-when/local-transit-times/ enter "Trona Pinnacles, CA" in the search box. You'll notice from the slider that Venus doesn't move at a uniform speed. Lots of reasons including that the apparent motion of Venus across the face of the sun is due to a combination of: Venus' rotation around the sun; Earth's Rotation around the sun AND earth's rotation on it's axis. For super fun, enter "Manila, Phillipines" in the search box and you'll see something rather interesting. Advance the slider and you'll notice the ingress is slow but the egress is rapid. (It also makes a LOOP).
My results from Trona Pinnacles look quite linear - but I was using an Equatorial mount so was getting very little field rotation.
From our vantage point (Phil McGrew was with me), the motion was quite linear - see below for the forecast path.
© Copyright 2012, Steven Christenson
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All rights reserved. Curious what "all rights reserved means?" it means that without written permission you may not: copy, transmit, modify, use, print or display this image in any context other than as it appears in Flickr.
The Manchester Ship Canal Company (MSC) in its early railway operating days had a penchant for products built by the Hunslet Engine Company, but from 1902 changed their allegiance to the products of Hudswell Clarke, who continued to supply the six-coupled locomotives synonymous with the MSC until 1927. By this 8th March 1963 photograph taken at Mode Wheel depot the steam locomotive fleet had all but had its day and the diesel interlopers were making their mark, also supplied by Hudswell Clarke, although from 1963 Rolls Royce 'Sentinels' were the preferred choice. In this transitional scene, one of the veteran Hunslet 0-6-0 tanks is dumped out of use, 20 'Glasgow' (W/No.732 of 1900) in the company of two Hudswell Clarke tanks and two new 0-6-0 diesel-mechanicals, 'D11' (W/No.D1265 of 1962) and ‘D12’ (W/No.1266 of 1962).
© Gordon Edgar collection - All rights reserved. Please do not use my images without my explicit permission
GWR class 800 IET 800302 calling at Cardiff with the 13:24 Swansea to Paddington.
Click here for more photographs of Railways Around Cardiff: www.jhluxton.com/Railways-and-Tramways/British-Network-Ra...
작품명Name : 사마귀(플라잉모드) Mantis (flying mode)
창작가 Creator : 맹형규 me
접은이 Folder : 맹형규 me
종이 Paper : 티슈페이퍼 Tissue paper 60X60(cm)
-자르지않은 정사각형 한장 사용(One Paper Uncut)!-
* maternity dress h&M*
*bow self made*
*belt Ebay*
* necklace h&m an old one*
* leggings Genereuses*
*shoes André*
Minox 35 ML with Color-Minotar 2.8/35
Compact camera for 35 mm film with manual focusing, aperture priority automatic exposure and programmed shutter AE.
It was introduced in 1985, about 10 years after the first Minox 35, the 35 EL. It has a broader top, but otherwise it looks pretty much the same. And it has some nice improvements, which make the camera very usable, e.g. it uses a battery which is available today, has an exposure lock and the shutter speeds are indicated in the viewfinder with some LEDs instead of a needle.
Some specs and features:
* Shutter speeds from 1 s to 1/500 s @ ISO 100 (at the long end faster/slower for higher/lower ISO-values)
* Electronic shutter
* ISO range: 25 to 1600
* Lens with 4 elements
* Nearest focus distance: 0.9 m
* For advancing the film you have to swing the advance lever twice
* Switches for self-timer and exposure correction ("x2" = +1 EV)
* Battery test button
* Thread for cable release
* Tripod socket
* Bright frame viewfinder without parallax marks
* If the flap is closed, the shutter button is locked and the electronic is switched off entirely (no battery consumption)
* Exposure lock with half-pressed shutter button
* Battery required: PX 28, 6 V. Or a stack of 4xLR44.
* In the viewer LEDs for P-mode, underexposure/slow shutter speeds (> 1/30), shutter speed ranges 1/30 .. 1/500 s, overexposure. In P-mode only "P" and underexposure/slow speeds are indicated. The brightness of the LEDs is adapted to the scene.
* Minox offered 3 flashes for the ML (and its sister, the MB): MF 35, MF 35ST and MT 35 (the most powerful, GN 26). You can use most other common flashes, but not Minox flashes which are made for Minox 35 cameras with the smaller top (FC 35, FC 35ST, TC 35 for 35 GT, PL, GL, EL).
* A switch in the hot shoe sets the shutter speed automatically to 1/125 s when a flash is mounted
* Size: 32 x 62 x 100 mm
* Weight: 180 g with battery
When buying another camera I got this ML for free additively - "I doesn't work anyway!" It was actually in a poor condition: cracks in the housing, window pane of the frame counter pushed in and the locking lever of the film chamber was broken away. Fortunately the previous owner kept it in the film chamber, so I just glued it on again. But when I pressed the shutter button, suddenly a shutter blade lay across in the lens - and I felt challenged.
So I opened the lens from the front side. Warning: if you remove the aperture ring, you simultaneously pull out a pin, which reaches deep into the camera, and it will require some work on reassembling. But I found the reason for the shutter blade on-the-run: the three blades are hinged between two rings, and those rings are hold together by three screws, which can be found under the aperture ring. Two of the screws were unscrewed entirely, the rings were loose and the shutter blade could slip away. I'm not the only one who has trouble with those screws, like I could see in some videos. If they are loose and sticking out, they can block the aperture ring.
For reassembling you possibly want to adjust the focus ring - with a matt screen at the focal plane and without B. You can darken the exposure meter cell and fire the shutter, it will open for a second, so you'll have time to remove the battery ..
While I was pottering around I noticed, that the only way to close the diaphragm is the aperture ring, there is no further connection. So how on earth the camera can close the diaphragm in program mode? The answer: it isn't necessary. In program mode (aperture ring to "P") the diaphragm is fully opened, and the camera uses the shutter blades instead to stop down, like on the Lomo LC-A and Konica C35. Nice design. BTW, it is the toggling between the two exposure modes which requires the pin on the rear of the aperture ring, which reaches deep into the camera.
You probably know, that older Minoxes are sometimes not very reliable: the shutter makes click, but it doesn't open. I thought, that this flaw was eliminated on later models, but I have the same trouble with the ML. And maybe I found a solution. If you open the camera back you can remove the baffle around the lens. It's just clicked in, but it is somewhat delicate, the two hooks are on top and below. With the baffle removed you have an excellent view onto the shutter assembly. You can see two magnetic coils, the one on top opens the shutter, the one below closes it. In front of each coil is a lever which is pushed away, when the coil is activated. Each lever is catching a pin which is connected with the shutter blades, when the shutter is cocked by operating the advance lever. It are those pins which are released, when the shutter is fired. Now, sometimes, the closer-pin is not pushed far enough to be caught when the advance lever is turned. That means, the shutter doesn't leave the closed position, and is already closed when the shutter is fired. So, on the right side you can see a strong lever, shaped like a fork, which transmits the movement from the advance lever to the shutter. My idea is, to "lift" that lever a tiny bit, so that the closer-pin is pushed further and can be caught. For that I loosen the two strong screws which are holding that lever, then I pushed the lever minimally upwards (and tightened up the screws again of course). As a result, the closer-pin is always caught, the shutter opens whenever the shutter button is pressed. I don't know, if this is working on every Minox 35, but here it looks very promising, still not tested with film though.