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Move the blade rapidly down the steel, see the blur in the blade in the picture. Alternate sides and you should end up with a sharp blade. If just freshening up an already sharp blade, then you don't need to support the end of the steel, but the hand grip shown helps to stop the steel moving about too much.
More in this old blog post of mine, on knife sharpening
The homemade paper instamatic cartridge with an 36 exp., here Fuji sensia 200 iso.. Actually it works. This cartridge is made of black paper, lightproof tape and an ordinary film 135 m,m film. The mask inside is made of sliced 120 film neg to get more clean edges. To make it fit into instamatic camera I have used an paperclip. After bending and gluing the paper together - you pull the film out of the film canister and roll it together and place it in the black box. last step is to tape it together. I have used this "126" film in my kodak 500
Gather the materials you need. The blue fabric wasn't used for this. This jumper's made with two different fabrics. The black, and the red.
Use however many buttons you wish. I prefer just a few big buttons, but alas I did not have any. Make sure you have enough buttons to keep your bodice securely closed.
Not Pictured: Tailors chalk and an iron.
I had a request for an explanation of how I set up "Topaz Ring, Macro", so here it is. This is taken from nearly above to best show the arrangement of the elements. Note:
-ring on stone fragment at center (film plane was parallel to stone fragment)
-white flat as backdrop, angled with respect to the stone and film plane
-gelled flash on backdrop, positioned to spill light across backdrop
-main light is flash into a 45" white umbrella, about 45 degrees offset from stone in both the horizontal and vertical
-camera was positioned parallel to stone, about 6" from the ring.
-there was also a white flat to the right when I took the original, but I was just holding it with my right hand (camera on tripod with two-second timer and 1-second mirror lockup so I had time to grab the flat)
The real trick here was angling the backdrop. When I didn't angle the backdrop, the main light overwhelmed the gelled light. But by putting the backdrop at an extreme angle to the main light, I could effectively weaken the main light, and since the backdrop is featureless and will be greatly out of focus anyway, you can't tell in the final image that it was angled. (I already had the umbrella'ed flash as low as I really wanted it to go, and the gelled flash isn't very adjustable.)
This shot was lit with two tungsten hotlights, one 100W pointed at the setup, and one 200W pointed at the ceiling for a little more fill. When taking the original shot, the flashes were wired with Wein HH units and household cord, but I left that out here for clarity.
If I were doing the whole thing again, I think I would place a large white flat under the whole shebang for more bounced light. (The bit of cardboard that says "PARAMOUNT" is just so the stone won't scratch the top of my chest of drawers...)
I made a little video showing how to make this slipcover. Video and diagram on my blog: studiocherie.blogspot.com/2016/03/sweet-slipcovers-video-...
some people, online magazines, webloggers find it hard to give credit to authors using a Creative Commons license.
couldn't be more simple!
on the right on every photo page you see Additional Information. check the link to the Creative Commons license, click on it. then on the next page you can see the above box. click on it and copy it. then on your blog paste it. that's it. link and license are now included in your blogpost and can be read by machines (read: search engines like Google who indexes Creative Commons licenses as well)
click on this link and you see what I mean:
Lissajous figures are interesting curves that occur in systems where oscillation happens in more than one direction, for example when a pendulum hanging from a string moves in the plane.
These pictures are from an easy persistence of vision approach to playing with Lissajous figures. Read more about this project here.
this is an untried idea for a fast improvised coil brace for wave stabilization.
You'll need a 2 liter soda bottle and a few zip ties. cut the bottom off of the bottle at the desired angle of shaft to coil.
Cut a hole in the top of the bottle on the same side as the high end of the angle. The hole should be near the flat side of the bottle and be big enough to slide over the shaft of your detector.
punch four holes about as far apart as the width of your MD shaft and about 1" from the top hole and bottom edge.
Thread the shaft of your MD through the top hole so that the bottle bottom is flush with the coil at the desired angle.
Fasten the bottle in place with zip ties through the four holes.
Leave the top off of the bottle so air doesn't get trapped wen you submerge it.
If this work for anyone, let me know.
If it fails miserably, let me know as well so I can pull the image and instructions off of the site.
Yesterday in the final installment of his Essential Kitchen Handtools post, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt mentioned holding a Y-peeler like a pencil.
While this is probably obvious to many a Y-peeler user, I had never thought about holding one like this. In fact, I have always hated Y-peelers because of the way I had been holding them. Which is probably why I never switched to one from my conventional peeler.
Anyway, I wasn't alone. Lemons asked the same question I had — How do you hold it like a pencil? So today, when I had to shave some asparagus, I figured I'd demonstrate the pencil method. Here you go.
First I used a hacksaw to remove the old brush head from the Sonicare and cut the new toothbrush to the length I wanted and filed off the rough edges.
I posted a how-to for making a fur hand bag with rabbit fur and a purse frame. Check it out here: howdidyoumakethis.com/blog/2012/1/9/make-this-fur-handbag...
En el tutorial de hoy veremos cómo hacer un pequeño regalo de arcilla polimérica.seguir leyendo
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