There is not much in life that cannot be made better by the judicious application of a Dremel tool. For this job, I decided that a grinding wheel would do the job and, after a little practice on the broken money clip, I ground off most of the support vanes to leave a flat surface. The original vane is still visible on the right.

There were two versions of credit card insert in the package Mike sent. The insert on the right has two indentations to accommodate the support pegs moulded into the shell on the left. These pegs do basically the same job as the vanes on the insert - stabilizing the structure of the Jimi™ when it is closed so it does not flex. Note that if the inserts are switched, the pegs have nowhere to go and will bend if forced.

See my Lego minifig costume how-to for more info on this photo.

turkeys in disguise , lomics.co/l/8qtfJWIDF3

Download Lomics:

IOS - m.onelink.me/de143c61

Android - m.onelink.me/5301f4f0

step 25: head gear

this step is optional, and the costume is pretty cute without it. things look more complete if you're wearing something on your head, though. here, i've wrapped 2 lengths of wire around a regular plain flat headband, covered the wire with red fleece (cut out a long slender rectangle with a rounded end, sew the edges together, turn right side out, and pull down over the wire), and hot-glued googly eyes to the ends. bend the wires to whatever shape you like.

other options would be to put googly eyes on a red beanie cap, put long hair into wire-stiffened pippi-longstalking-type pigtail braids with googly-eye ends, or purchase a crab costume hat.

www.realmacsoftware.com/clear/

[Design Solutions]

Smoosh it all together so there isn't a mouth/height issue. EAT AND ENJOY LIKE IT'S A AWESOME SANDWICH

step 19: string the legs together

this is an optional step, but if you do it, your crab legs will have more movement. using that same yarn, tie a knot through each outer-most joint of the legs on one side, leaving the top piece long. you'll make a loop in that top piece of yarn and attach it to your claws, so that every time you lift your arm, all the crab legs on that side move with you.

From a collection of simple solar circuits.

Turn your piece right side out.

step 10: make armholes for the front

where you've marked the sleeve opening of your starter shirt on your pattern piece, make an oval opening a few inches down. this will be the armhole on your costume.

step 11: cut out body pieces

take the color fleece you've chosen for the back (mine is red, we're cooked crabs), fold it in half longwise, and put the straight edge of the pattern on the fold. when you cut it out through both layers and open it up, it will be one large symmetrical piece. do the same to make your costume's front/belly with the color you've chosen for that part.

Dad and I decided the other day that since his project car was out being painted, we would start a mini project for barbecues. We built a game of washers. The first step, of course is to cut out your parts. We decided to use plywood and to improvise our design, but in retrospect, some 1 x 4's and a 1 x 10 would have been much more suitable for the frame, and it would have costed less to make.

step 9: shape the body pattern

going back to that starter picture, you see that crabs have points on their shell out over their claw arms - your body pattern will need that same shape. draw it several times with a marker until you feel you've gotten the contour you want, then cut it out.

step 6: close the arms

push the stuffing back up into the leg, away from the open end. fold the raw edges to the inside all the way around, and sew the leg closed with a regular straight stitch. then "massage" all over the legs to get the stuffing even throughout.

you turn and make the happy dance.

step 22: turn & stuff claws

just like you did for the legs earlier, turn the claws right side out, using those closed scissors or spoon handle to get the tips to pop out. stuff them and sew the claws shut across the bottom.

step 23: make a hand loop

add a loop of elastic in the center of the claw, so that you can attach the cuff around your wrist and slip your hand into the loop to keep those claws on.

Contact Paper Counter Tops in Grey Granite

Much better than the yellow boomerang.

Shot by Logan Williams using CHDK chdk.wikia.com/

step 15: make the groove pattern on the back

with the close-up, you can see how to tack that yarn down: use a wide, loose zig-zag stitch that catches the fabric to either side of the yarn. pin the yarn in place on the outside center of the back and tack to make the crab's dorsal groove:

http://webs.lander.edu/rsfox/rsfoximages3/crab20La_x550_x_440x.gif

step 8: draft the body pattern

to draft the body pattern, find a shirt that fits the way you want the finished costume to. remember that we're dealing with polar fleece here, which is not stretchy or slinky, so a boxy, loose fit is best for this fabric type. notice the sweater i've picked is flat front and back - no darts or body shaping is built into this garment - and it hangs to my upper thigh. lay the center of your chosen starter shirt along the edge of the newspaper and trace it out, marking where the sleeve starts at the shoulder & underarm.

Photo credit: Samiad40

(link to the original photo)

there's the battery! It's a standard lithium 2032 3v cell too- nothing special. pick one up at any Radio Shack or self-respecting drug store. remove it by pushing it gently upwards to clear the ridges, then lift the lower edge and slide it out. replace the battery by following those steps in reverse, and then put it all back in place (logic board, outer case). you will need to reload all your factory sounds/patches from either the original PCM card, or a MIDI dump, however- but that's all it takes to swap the battery! they'll tell you this needs to be done by a pro, but don't get hit up for an hour of shop repair time for a simple battery swap. it's freakin' simple.

step 5: turn & stuff the legs

flip the sewn legs inside-out, so that all the seamed edges are to the inside, and the outer contour is smooth. use a closed pair of scissors or a spoon handle pushed from the inside to get those tips to pop all the way right side out. then fill the insides with handfuls of polyester stuffing. they don't need to be drum-tight full, just stuffed enough to give them a nice round cross-sectioned shape.

See my Lego minifig costume how-to for more info on this photo.

From a collection of simple solar circuits.

Start with slightly damp hair.

Made from a bottle of 8th Generation soymilk, some cellophane tape, and a piece of camera tissue.

If you changed to 1980x1080 dpi screen like I did, your eyes (not you) are over 40 and you still use a lot of Instant messages on Skype, you might find this screen useful. I use Tahoma regular 12.

now look at the side of the lens and u'll notice a notch like this

this is used to hold the front element to it's position

Unscrew the Torx bolts holding down the radio panel.

step 18: attach the legs

pin the legs in place on the belly, spaced evenly from the armhole down to the bottom, and sew them on (sew only onto the front belly piece!).

step 3: cut out legs

it's easiest for you to fold your fleece in half longwise and cut through both layers at one time, making 2 pieces at once. then these 2 pieces are already lying face-to-face, and you're ready to sew them.

step 4: sew the legs

use a regular straight stitch to sew the two long sides and the beveled tip together, leaving the smallest (blunt) side open.

See my Lego minifig costume how-to for more info on this photo.

With Flickr's redesign they've move the embed code from the view all sizes page to the "Share This" button above the picture.

Click on "Share This" > "Grab the HTML" > select which size with dropbox list.

Note they've added a new Medium side. Now a 500 and a 640 width Medium option.

Flip the picture back, then the mat back, and you have a matted picture!

This one goes to Corporal Tunnel. :)