View allAll Photos Tagged HandCrank
Macro Mondays Weekly Challenge
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Wooden cab and seat, fabric roof, butterfly hood, and handcrank start. I have no Idea what vintage this is but would be interested to know. There were way too many wasps living in it to inspect it more closely.
Visible Handcrank Gas Pumps
Before my time... Johnnie explained one would physically pump the gas into the glass cylinder (that way you could assess the amount & quality). Gravity would then send the gas to the vehicle's tank.
For Classical Gas Museum I:
www.flickr.com/photos/bluemt/51458650451/in/photostream/
Fuji X-S10. Fujinon XF 10-24mm f/4 R OIS. 10mm, f/9, 1/500 sec, ISO 320.
An iconic Victor Talking Machine. Made in 1921 by Victor Victrola Co. Taking us back in time to the "Roaring 20's" when jazz and big bands ruled. There's lots of jazz 78's for this wind up phonograph. It plays 78 RPM vinyl records. It isn't rare since about 185,000 were made. It was made before the company was bought by RCA, becoming RCA Victrola. This wind up phonograph plays surprisingly good music. #TimeMachine #VictorTalkingMachine #Victrola #78RPM #vinyl #HandCrank #WindUp
Early 40's Dodge trucks still had the option of handcranking to start the engine. Not sure if this option carried through the war or not.
This old car was abandoned in the East Bottoms Kansas City, Mo. 1940 Chevrolet.
UPDATE 2/17/09: I recently went back and it's not there anymore!
The cranks on the side of each slide is connected to gears in the center of the slide. When the handle is cranked an image in the circle moves in a circular motion. The lantern slides are all hand drawn and painted on a round glass disc. This set is dated around 1870. It was going to e be discarded by a school when my wife rescued it and brought it home.
it's so cold here in the midwest even Alexa can't keep things straight, windchill is 34 below......as we push for electric vehicles what do we do when the 'rolling power outages' continue across the country, handcrank generators ?
Texas has 'frozen' wind turbines hampering their power supply...rolling outages in our area due to over usage...looks like I may have to find the old pot belly stove we burned corn cobs in as a child....love the winters but not the sub zeros !
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
La Victor Model 5 és una càmera de 16mm amb motor de molla molt típica dels anys 30. Segueix l'estil molt exitós de les Filmo-70, i fou fabricada als Estats Units entre 1933 i 1949. Aquesta en concret data d'entre 1933 i 1935, pel tipus de placa identificativa.
Tenia una torreta per a 3 objectius intercanviables, amb rosca universal "C". El visor és obert, amb la part posterior movil per a corretgir el paralatge; també compta amb un visor auxiliar per enquadrar amb l'objectiu abans de situar-lo en posició per a rodar. I finalment un punt interessant és que compta amb un anclatge auxiliar per a fer anar la càmera a ma. Per desgracia la maneta especial que hi anava no la tinc, però potser la puc trobar... o fer-ne una de adaptada.
www.vintagecameras.fr/victor/victor-model-5
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The Victor Model 5 is a 16mm camera with a spring motor very typical of the 1930s. It follows the very successful style of the Filmo-70, and was manufactured in the United States between 1933 and 1949. This one in particular dates from between 1933 and 1935, by the type of identification plate.
It had a turret for 3 interchangeable lenses, with a universal "C" thread. The viewfinder is open, with the rear part movable to correct parallax; it also has an auxiliary viewfinder to frame with the lens before placing it in position to shoot. And finally, an interesting point is that it has an auxiliary anchor to move the camera by hand. Unfortunately, I don't have the special handle that came with it, but maybe I can find it... or make an adapted one.
In a car graveyard on the road to Stepandsmindi Georgia.
Fujifilm GF670 in 6x7 mode, EBC Fujinon 80mm f/3.5
Kodak Tri-X 400 at EI 320
D-76 *1+4, 10mins, 30s agitations.
See my previous pic for processing notes.
BIP on the return to Parkersburg, WV passes by one of 10 handcrank locks along the Muskingum River in Alden, OH. These locks are operated during the summer months for recreational boaters and were built between 1836 and 1841.
Built to dimensions of 184 ft long and 36 feet wide, commercial river traffic ended by 1948 when the Army Corps of Engineers stopped all preventive maintenance and upkeep on the dams. In 1958 the state of Ohio took over ownership and maintenance costs of the dilapidated lock and dam’s to help promote tourism in the area. Thankfully they still survive and in return hold the title as the oldest navigational lock and dam system in the entire United States.
Here's a informative video showing how they work: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sN_jCtaKjbA
No special processing - the "screen" is the actual fabric of the drapes on which the candle's shadow is being cast. To the left of the candle is the handcrank for opening/closing the window.
I liked the gears in the cranking mechanism
Photographed at the Jacksonport Farmers Market
Jacksonport Wisconsin
Tuesday September 13th, 2022
Gaso-electic Motor Omnibus
(motor designed by the General Electric Company,)
and De Dion Bolton Omnibus
-- Identified by jamica1 and Steve (Visual Photons)
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"solid tires, hand cranked, chain drive, rear ends along with carbide or acetylene lamps made this the high tech wonder of the teens ... looks like a trolley car put atop a wagon chassis"
-- bike-R (Geri)
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Photographer unknown
Carte de visite by E.A. Kusel of Oroville, Calif. A man sits in a wheel chair that features a flywheel with hand-crank that turns a belt and powers the large back wheels. A third, smaller wheel is operated by a steering lever. The chassis is constructed of metal and the seat, large wheels, and floorboard of wood.
Photographer Edward Abraham Kusel (1824-1907), a Prussian immigrant from a Jewish family who arrived in America during the Gold Rush, supported abolitionist causes and was active in civic affairs in Oroville.
I encourage you to use this image for educational purposes only. However, please ask for permission.
Seen at one of the vendors attempting to find new owners for things they have acquired and brought to the Southeastern Old Thresher's Reunion at Denton Farm Park. Love the hand crank on the front of the auto. Didn't get to check, but believe it to be a pedal car.
My inlaws had this phone as a decorative piece in their home, and we, in turn, have had it for many years. It's actually a small cabinet inside, since the innards have been ripped out.
The Northern Electric Company's roots go back into the nineteenth century. It was centered in Montreal for many years.
As time went on, it evolved into what is now known as Nortel, which has had a fairly checkered recent history. For many years, it was headquartered in Brampton, Ontario, Canada, which is not far from here. A lot of my buddies and acquaintances worked for Nortel. Some of them joined the company when it was still Northern Electric.
Here's the link to Wikipedia's detailed company history:
Inspired by the cool trucks made by coolnvintage I decided to do my own take. A late series 2A with the wing mounted headlights and 'Maltese' grill. This truck has a full beige leather interior with many upgrades including, an overdrive, heater, under seat storage, fold flat front seats (which reveal the behind seat handcrank storage) and folding station wagon rear seats. A spare wheel on the bonnet and fold down window complete 'the look'. I felt like a couple of surfboards fitted with the styling and sense of adventure.
Inspired by the cool trucks made by coolnvintage I decided to do my own take. A late series 2A with the wing mounted headlights and 'Maltese' grill. This truck has a full beige leather interior with many upgrades including, an overdrive, heater, under seat storage, fold flat front seats (which reveal the behind seat handcrank storage) and folding station wagon rear seats. A spare wheel on the bonnet and fold down window complete 'the look'. I felt like a couple of surfboards fitted with the styling and sense of adventure.
I photographed this 1921 Ford Model T Huckster Truck at the 1990 Steam Weekend at the Blue Mountain & Reading Railroad Station in Hamburg, Pennsylvania on September 16, 1990. The Truck appears to have a Canvas Roof and Canvas Roll Down Sides in the Cargo Area. I would classify it as a Flat Bed Truck. The Spoked Wheels have very Thin Tires. There's a Hand Crank for starting the engine.
Disclaimer: This photo was taken on September 16, 1990 with my Minolta Maxxim 5000 SLR using Print (Negative) Film when I was just learning photograph; so it is very soft & grainy. I scanned the Negative, used Photoshop Elements to correct the exposure and to generate a Digital Image.
©PhotographyByMichiale. All images are copyright protected and cannot be used without my permission. please visit me on Facebook, too! www.facebook.com/photographybymichiale
Our Daily Challenge "Gadgets"
73/365
If you like to make apple pie but hate prepping the apples - well here's the doohickey to have! As you turn the handcrank, the affixed apple turns while the blade peels it -all the while it passes through the corer. In the end, the apple is cored, thinly sliced in a spiral fashion and peeled all in one step!
LensBaby Composer Double Glass Optic f/4 ; Wireless flash @ 1/4 power 35mm zoom camera left in softbox.
atelier ying, nyc.
As I had mentioned in my previous uploaded photo, I love Schnabel's work and admire him.
The shift of scale within Schnabel's famous pink Palazzo Chupi building in Manhattan and its transporting views of the West side were part of the inspiration for my humble design, along with a vintage fisher-price wind up music box I saw in a soho store which just seemed the vehicle, I hope he won't mind. I felt I needed to move in big gestures vectorially rather than adhere to any standard. In this fantasy-homage, the quasi-setback for the small L-shaped building (which has intensely yellow-tinted glass curtain walls, the color of the eyeglasses Schnabel sometimes favors) would create much more light. The rest of the design would somehow be advantageous in gaining the adjacent building's top floor (call it an improvement to the neighborhood for now).
The warmest (focused) zone of the main building is oddly the roof of its inner structure, which is an extension of Schnabel's painting studio. Option A is an escalator-walkway connecting the spaces. But the far more interesting Option B would connect via a smaller red glass 'chute' to the next building's upper level where he would work. The original toy's handcrank that produced music would now siphon all scraps and refuse of discarded painting materials and supplies which would be dumped out the duct and would roll down the chute (as if a demolition were taking place) ending up in the glass enclosed roof area as a growing pile, from which Schnabel can periodically re-cycle for sculpture or combine and use as supports for new work. The discarded tarp cloths, wood timbers, found objects, etc. can be allowed to pile up attractively (it would also be visible from the street and within as most of the structures are of glass). As the piles grow they are shaped by moveable clear walls which act as brackets so Schnabel can use the piles as abstract inspiration. There would be plenty of walkways in and around the structures to resemble a quasi-highline open to the public. The highline views into his studio and his abstract sculpture of painting materials "waste" would be a wonderful way to interact both publicly and with the neighborhood surroundings as an artful and totally different constructive form of debris.
Please see my last upload (image also below) for more on Schnabel.
The Singer Victorian Model 28-K Hand-crank Sewing Machine
What a Jewel!
Manufactured on Oct 1, 1901 in Kilbowie Factory in Clydesbank, Scotland, this gorgeous quality vintage Singer workhorse is in beautiful working order.
This quality made machine is powered by you with a nifty hand crank. This all-iron-and-steel lass was manufactured at the very beginning of the 20th century during Singer's Golden Years, when Superior Quality products were both the expected and the norm.
This cool Antique Singer Model 28k with her gold and silver decals is a beauty ravishing beauty with a nickel silver plated head plate. She's got a few minor battle-scars on the top edge, but very few. Somebody loved and cared for this pretty lassie and kept her tucked inside her oaken carry case.
The Singer 28-K is a gorgeous enameled cast iron machine, all tricked out in her original elegant bright nickle plated detailing and has been entirely cleaned and reconditioned from top to bottom here in our own Raymond, Maine workshop.
She's been beautifully restored back to her original factory fresh purrrrr-fect running order.
The Singer Model 28-K is Serious Machine –
She's all-metal and heavy-duty and powered by a hand operated control, she features standard Singer long bobbin, built bobbin winder, carries a needle Size 8 to Size 22, no problem … and if you're a rugged lass, she’ll sew her way through the most delicate of satins and laces to light leathers, canvas, denims and upholstery. What a workhorse! She uses a 15-19" stretch belt. (We'll send her out with a brand new one.)
A solid and reliable machine you will use every day – care for her with a bit of brushing under the plate and a drop or two of oil and she’ll purr for you for a lifetime (or two!) This machine was originally a treadle machine and was wired and converted to electricity in the early 1960s.
The Singer Model 666's Particulars:
Forward gears.
Swing shuttle mechanism with standard Singer long bobbins
Stitching range from 6 to 30 stitches per inch.
Belt-driven forward .9 AMP Delco AC/DC Motor 115volt Volts, 25 to 75 cycles
She comes with a Universal Foot
Four Steel Antique Singer Long Bobbins
A Five needle box of Singer needles size 15X1 #14
Also included is a CD ROM file with the owner's manual including instructions for attachments and a machine owner's troubleshooting guide.
With this very same sewing machine, your great-grandmother may have made clothes for your grandmother's dolls and curtains for her room; perhaps she even made her own wedding gown with her as well!
For about the same price as a nightmarish wimpy all-plastic machine from Big Box Store, you can own this spectacular cast-iron-and-steel, belt-driven reliable beauty. She’ll be purring like a kitten when your grandkids are ready to sew and their grandkids, too!
Your lovely antique Scottish Singer Model 66 will come cradled in a sturdy original period Oak coffin-style carrying case in fair condition. Thee top has some good hard dings in her though. She's just beautiful. Still good and rock solid.
If you're a person living somewhere off the power grid or just enjoy depriving the local power company their fees, this is just the perfect gal for you!
www.recyclart.org/2016/08/hand-crank-wash-tub/
There are many hand-crank washing tubs out there, but they cost money. Heck with that! I made my own Hand-Crank Wash Tub out of recycled and upcycled bits & pieces lying around my shed for FREE! The motivation behind it is that I like to do basic maintenance on my cars and motorcycles, and it always generates a lot of dirty, greasy rags.
I don’t like to run them through my washing machine because of the risk of spreading grease to my regular laundry. I also don’t like to take them to the laundromat for the same reason. It’s not fair to the next customer to ruin their clothes! So, I decided to make something that would at least do a good job of a first wash so that I could then use my own washing machine.
When I looked around, the cheapest ones were around fifty dollars. I looked around for plans, and the most prominent ones were basically versions of wash boards or the style that uses a plunger in a lid. I didn’t want to sit around and basically “churn butter”, as agitating washers work better. So this is my version of an agitating washer!
Hand-Crank Wash Tub – supplies & tools needed:
Supplies needed:
5-gal. bucket (like a used latex paint bucket that you’ve cleaned out)
Two 2x2” pieces of wood, approx. 18” long (I used redwood pallet boards for all wood on this project)
Two 2x2” pieces of wood, approx. 4 to 5” long
One 2x2” piece of wood, approx. 6” long
Front fork set from a kid’s BMX bike (don’t need the handlebars)
One piece of 6” black PVC pipe (the type used for sewer cleanouts, etc), approx. 8” long & cut into two pieces vertically
4 sets of nuts/bolts/washers – approx. 1.5” long (enough to go through forks and piece of PVC pipe)
2 sets of nuts/bolts/washers – approx. 4.5” long (enough to go through your 2x2 boards to clamp together)
4 wood screws, 2.5” or 3” long
1 pallet block (ensure all nails/screws are removed)
1 set of nuts/bolts/washers – approx.. 6” long (enough to go through hand crank and the 2x2 board
1 piece of wire (heavy gauge – like fence wrapping wire), enough to wrap around the bucket a couple times so you have places to hook bungee cords to. I used approx. 4’ of wire
Tools Needed:
Band Saw
Reciprocating Saw
Draw knife
Drill press
Drill & a few different drill bits
Hole saw bits (optional – can use the band saw too)
Impact driver
Circular Saw
Chop/Miter saw
Wrench & socket set
Utility knife
¼” chisel
Pencil
Tape measure
Sand paper (from 80-grit to 2000 grit)
Hand file
Small wood lathe
Sanding sponges (medium and fine grit)
End cutting pliers (dull is fine – you’re not cutting anything – just prying nails from blocks)
Hand-Crank Wash Tub – A BMX bike front fork set:
We had a leftover kid’s BMX bike that my husband had picked up at a used store for 8.00. He used the crankset for another project he made. The front fork set had been sitting around, so I thought I’d use it, as it has free-spinning bearings. I used a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade to cut the front fork set loose from the frame just behind where it was welded together.
Hand-Crank Wash Tub – Tub & Supporting Frame:
My wash tub is a leftover, heavy-duty 5-gal bucket. I happened to have an old Behr latex paint bucket that we’d used up, let dry, and then peeled out the dry latex paint remnants. The frame is made from pallet wood. To begin the frame, I started with with the two 2x2 x18” pieces of wood. I placed them across the top of the bucket, side by side and used clamps to hold them together. I marked the outside and inside diameters of the bucket with a pencil on the bottom sides of the wood. Next, I used a band saw to cut notches into the wood along the cut lines, approx. 3/8” deep. It just needs to be deep enough to create a channel so the wood frame will sit securely on top of the bucket. I used a chisel to clean up along the ends of the curves that the band saw couldn’t cut.
Find the approximate center of the two boards, and if you have them clamped tightly, you could use a hole saw to drill one hole down between the two for where it will clamp around the top tube. If not, you can use a band saw and cut the half-circles out. My cut was a little crooked, so I just notched around my bad prep job. I’d suggest you cut it more evenly, haha! Then I re-clamped the boards together and drilled two holes, equidistant from the center hole. The bolts will clamp the top tube in between these two boards. Sand the boards down the way you want. They don’t have to be perfect.
Hand-Crank Wash Tub – Correcting my error (do yours right and skip this step):
I test-fitted mine, and because of the crooked frame cut, it caused it to slip a little when I tried it, so the two shorter 2x2” boards were my solution. If you cut straight, you may not need them. Repeat the hole cutting process, as these two smaller boards will squeeze tightly around the top tube, basically clamping all 4” of the top tube. I screwed these two smaller boards together and then down on top of the longer boards to anchor the tube tightly.
Hand-Crank Wash Tub – Woodturning!
To make the handle, I used a pallet block. It is CRITICAL when using a lathe, or most of your saws, to remove any nails or screws. I used a circular saw to make shallow cuts around the nails that were cut flush when I dismantled pallets with a reciprocating saw. After cutting close to the nails, I made more cuts around the edge that I just sliced across so I’d be able to chisel the wood away easily to expose a bit of nail top. Next, I chiseled the wood away, exposing about ¼” of the nail heads, and used an old pair of end-cutting pliers. The rolled cutting end does a great job of clamping onto the exposed nail, and then allows you to roll the pliers over and pull the deeply-embedded nails out easily.
Identify the approximate centers of your block. Use a ruler and draw a line from one corner to the other diagonally. Do the same in the other direction. X marks the spot! Do this on both of the end-grain ends of the block and carefully center it into the lathe. I used a draw knife to round over the edges. You can use a band saw or other tools if you choose, but a draw knife is fast and convenient for me. I turned the wood into the shape of an old-style hand-crank drill. Those old handles are a good fit for my hands, and I know my husband won’t be doing it, haha! I turned it, smoothed it down, starting with 80-grit sponges, all the way down to 2000 grit paper while still on the lathe. I removed it and cut the excess wood off, then sanded the ends. Next I turned the horizontal piece of handle from more pallet wood – the last piece of 2x2x6” wood. Find the centers again and load it into the lathe. You could chip or sand down a dowel instead, but I didn’t have any leftover dowels. Besides, I only needed about 2-3” of round wood that’ll fit into the round-shaped clamp at the top end of the top tube – where the handle bars clamp in. I turned it down to the size I needed, and then rounded over the edges just so if I hit my knuckles, it wouldn’t be too uncomfortable.
I used a drill press and a wood-boring bit to drill a centered hole through the handle knob and then through the location on the horizontal piece of wood. Cut it loose around the size of your bolt so it’ll turn freely like a drill handle.
Hand-Crank Wash Tub – hardware stackup on crank knob assembly:
The hardware stackup is as follows: Long machine bolt, large washer, crank knob, large washer, connecting wood piece, large washer, and either a nylock or, if you don’t have those, I just used two bolts and tightened them against themselves so that the handle could turn freely. Bolt the crank knob assembly into the handlebar grip point and secure.
Hand-Crank Wash Tub – wash paddles (the agitator):
To agitate the dirty rags, I had to come up with something that would be a little flexible, but very durable. So, I used a piece of large, black PVC pipe – I think it was left over from when we installed a new cleanout drain on our 1920’s home. I cut a short piece off of the long tube – approximately 8” with the reciprocating saw, and then split it in half. I used the band saw to round over the corners, and then a hand file to smooth over the edges. It doesn’t have to be perfect; just not so rough that it’ll snag and tear your terry-cloth rags.
Next, clamp them onto the forks, in whatever pattern you want. You can stagger the height, or change the curve directions; it’s up to you. I put mine the same direction, but staggered the height. Drill two holes through the paddles and all the way through the forks. Hardware stackup: Bolt, tooth-washer, paddle, fork, tooth washer, nut. Repeat for the 2nd paddle, so you’ll have four holes to drill total (or more if you make your paddles bigger).
Hand-Crank Wash Tub – Putting it all together:
Final assembly begins now! Install your top tube in between your first two boards you cut, and secure tightly with bolts/nuts. Ensure that your tube assembly is level, or the paddles will slap up against the sides of the bucket and create drag. Put the entire assembly into the bucket and align the grooves on the two mounting boards onto the edges of the bucket. Secure with bungee cords. I did a non-permanent mounting so if anything got tangled, I could just unhook the bungees and pull it all out easily. However, you can mount the assembly any way you choose.
Now, time to give her a twirl! My assembly WORKED – other than the oops I listed above. With the extra little corrective boards I added, it stays level and slaps the dirty rags around. This probably seems like an excessively long post for such a little project, but I wanted to make this and not spend a single dime, and accomplished it! Are there other ways to make hand-crank washers? Sure. But I’ve got one load of rags that have been washed already so far. :D
Achilles Freedom Team Athletes at the 2011 ING New York City Marathon. Photo courtesy of our friends at the FBI
One of the classic mechanical workhorses of the farm, a green Fordson tractor is having a minute in between ploughing a furrow in the competition at the Festival of the Plough at the High Burnham farm near to Epworth - home of the 18th century preacher John Wesley. A gaggle of event goers check the spoils, no doubt being told a thing or two about the job from the resting driver.
copyright © Mim Eisenberg/mimbrava studio. All rights reserved.
From the classic car show I went to on Sunday morning. Notice the hand crank!
My thanks to Budderflyman/Michael for this informative link.
I seem to have run out of time yesterday before I got to do any visiting. I'll try to do better today.
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This is another look at the 1923 Ford Truck that I ran across at a car show in Crossville, TN. It was a extremely cool old truck with wooden spokes in the rims and a wooden bed and side rails. In this photo, you can see the hand crank that the owner actually used to start the truck along with the original license plate. Being a old car/truck enthusiast, this was a fantastic find...
This image is an HDR created from three photos taken at -2, 0, +2 EV.
"For I know the plans I have for you", declares the LORD, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." ~Jeremiah 29:11
The best way to view my photostream is through Flickriver with the following link: www.flickriver.com/photos/photojourney57/
Join me for a summer "crank along". Details on the blog.
#crankalong #packporchsewing
Crank Along @ The Little Red Hen
Achilles Freedom Team Athletes at the 2011 ING New York City Marathon. Photo courtesy of our friends at the FBI
Series of frames taken with a Lomokino camera in week 490 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:
www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240
Expired Fuji Velvia 50 slide film, cross-processed in the Tetenal C41 kit.
A float is attached to a shaft which has a small screw propeller at the rear. The propeller is worked by the hands and by a crank moved by the feet. The swimmer rests upon the float which keeps his head above water while the propeller forces him through the water.
From the Renault.com website (I think the writer must have had a few glasses of wine before completing this write-up about the car).
Dauphine took over from the 4CV in 1956, but not as a replacement. The name dauphine (heiress) was highly significant. Release was a major event on the motoring scene, and followed up by a successful career on French and export markets.
Dauphine played its successor’s role to the full, boasting all the latest features of the epoch, such as adjustable seats, heating, and an automatic gearbox. The finish was very smart, with a red and black steering wheel and matching seats. The dashboard layout was uncluttered, and the interior roomy.
Dauphine was a four-seater, with rear bench and two separate seats at the front. In January 1957, the US motoring weekly The Motor crowned it the “prettiest little four-seater in the world”. Sure, it was beautiful, elegant and shapely, totally in keeping with spirit of the 1960s.
For stability and roadholding, Dauphine was impeccable, with Aérostable spring suspension keeping the wheels exactly where they belonged, and precise, supple steering giving the driver total control over the car at all times. Then the aerodynamic styling and low weight kept fuel consumption down.
Quite aside from its economical qualities, Dauphine also proved superbly maneuverable, fast and efficient. Stupendous results were achieved right from the start of Dauphine’s sporting career, with victories in the Tour de Corse, Mille Miglia and Monte Carlo Rallies in 1958 and the Ivory Coast Rally in 1959.
This international tourer held irresistible appeal for sports-minded drivers, with its slick four-speed gearbox, a 845cc engine rated at 55hp, symmetrical-expansion brakes, and a top speed approaching 115kph. Dauphine did, indeed, “leave the others standing”! (Note -- that's 71.5 mph.)
Renault installed state-of-the-art facilities to produce the Dauphine in the premises built at Flins. A car left the assembly line every 20 to 30 seconds. The Billancourt site, which had the world’s most highly automated workshops with its transfer lines, produced an engine every 28 seconds. A technological first!
Dauphine was a big hit outside France too, with export sales accounting for 43% of production. Dauphine was made in Italy, Spain, Brazil and Africa, becoming a worldwide ambassador not only for Renault but for the French automotive industry as a whole.
The career of the Dauphine came to an end at end-December 1967, when it set another record for vehicle production in France: 2,150,738 units since launch.
Note: My reasons for buying the car -- it was cheap and had great traction in the snow given the rear mounted engine. In addition, it came with a handcrank to start the engine manually in case of a dead battery (a nice feature during the cold Minnesota winters). A little known feature of the car was its ability to carry a beer keg under the front bonnet. The tap was run through the the thin firewall with iced packed around the keg.
©PhotographyByMichiale. All images are copyright protected and cannot be used without my permission. please visit me on Facebook, too! www.facebook.com/photographybymichiale