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The Hack 4000 is a vehicle composed out of other fighters that have been plundered by the relentless space pirates.Space pirates? Space pirates! I don't know where this came from, but it might be a bit different. I haven't put a cock pit in yet but there is room, and there is also an unfinished storage area out back, where I would put all the lego gold. A fig to go with this would also be ideal.
The lighting and backgrounds leave something to be desired, need different colors, or textures, or diffusers, or something. Better pics will come if I can work it out. Let me know what you think - I can take it.
A hack of the MIT Media Lab.
A livingroom was installed on the underside of the sculpture attached to the MIT Media Lab (normally it looks like www.media.mit.edu/about/images/e15.jpg ).
Hacking google & mozilla. What happens when you enter as many characters you can into the Firefox URL bar? Well it just keeps on taking them. More interesting was what google suggested.
Official link for downloading the complete archive is mgpf.it/2013/08/07/shots-and-portraits-from-ohm.html
All pictures are released under an Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license. Do something awesome with them.
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© by Wil Wardle. Please do not use this or any of my images without my permission.
Please click "L" on your keyboard to view on Black, you know it looks better.
Windows login password for computer is used to keep personal information private and we are always create some administrator or user accounts on Windows 7/Vista/XP PC and also domain admin or AD accounts on Windows Server 2000/2003(R2)/2008(R2). It will be a big besetment when you lost windows passwords of those accounts. However, with some easily windows password hacker ways, it is possible to re-access your Windows system with no damage of the data.
So I bought a few things from KEH recently: a BGN grade 135/2.8 (for $60 they practically gave it away) a 55mm UV filter and an "as-is" inoperative Winder 2. Why would I buy an inoperative Winder 2 might you ask? Well, for a whopping .89 cents I figured I'd take a chance on trying to make my own grip for my OM. Took me about 45 minutes, but I managed to dismantle the winder (after making sure it really was DOA) remove the guts and put it back together. The battery compartment is more or less separate from the rest of the device, so I just took that off completely. My only complaint is that the bottom is now a shiny metal plate that is flimsy at best, and the actual grip itself is just slightly too large to be really ergonomic. I'm going to try using it to see how it handles in "real world" situations; if it doesn't help any, oh well, it was .89 cents and I got to see the guts of a Winder 2.
The Museum Store at The Dayton Art Institute is pleased to offer a selection of prints of works by the late Dayton artist, Homer Hacker. Quantities are limited, and the prints are only available for purchase at The Museum Store during regular hours. For more information, visit bit.ly/daimuseumstore.
Since the Fortnite Hack game never offers the very same play experience twice, this Fortnite Hack tips book instructs one to adjust your hostile and guarded battling techniques as expected to drastically improve your chances of achievement during each activity stuffed fight.
click here : bit.ly/30Q5jFx
Official link for downloading the complete archive is mgpf.it/2013/08/07/shots-and-portraits-from-ohm.html
All pictures are released under an Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license. Do something awesome with them.
I'd really appreciate if you can refer the link if you use them and I'd like to hear your impressions, so please email me your greetings and your feelings. You can add me to twitter too, my nick is @lastknight.
Germany 2011
هام جدًا : حقوق الصورة محفوظه لصاحبها - عبدالله القديري - أي استخدام للصورة بدون سابق إذن لن يعرضك للمسؤولية ولا للمقاضاة .. حيث ان القانون لن ينصف حقوقي الفكرية والملكيه للصورة.. لذلك فتوقع اغتيالك من مجهول.. هذه ليست مزحه فقط بالانجليزي مزحه لأنهم ما يبوقون
Attention please : Unfortunately There are no Copy Rights Law for my photography work in this country.. So any use of this picture without permission.. I will NOT Sue you! But expect an Assassination with a closed CASE. It is a JOKE!
☻♥☻
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.l l. .l l.
Official link for downloading the complete archive is mgpf.it/2013/08/07/shots-and-portraits-from-ohm.html
All pictures are released under an Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license. Do something awesome with them.
I'd really appreciate if you can refer the link if you use them and I'd like to hear your impressions, so please email me your greetings and your feelings. You can add me to twitter too, my nick is @lastknight.
I know, this is like tricking out a Ford Taurus Station Wagon. But hey, sometimes you just gotta work with what ya got. And I got a pair of 3700s. Besides, this flash is 20+ years old. I figured if I killed it doing this that would give me a good excuse to buy a new flash, maybe something built in this century : )
(When I first got into photography I chose these over a 283 because they had the same power, but they also had the 'Interchangeable Dedicated Module. At the time that sounded very impressive. Oh well, live and learn).
After reading all the posts about modding the Vivitar 283's for Variable Power I thought I'd try something similar with a Vivitar 3700 Flash. From what I've read Vivitar does make a Vari-Power Module for these flashes. But I have NEVER seen one on either ebay OR Google.
It was quite simple. I mounted a Closed-Circuit 1/8 Jack (Radio Shack Part # 274-0248) in the 'module'. I spliced it into the two wires going to the sensor on the front. The closed-circuit jack interrupts and re-directs the circuit. (Think about the stereos and boomboxes where the speakers cut out when you plugged the headphones in.) I connected the red wire (which I presumed was the 'hot' wire) to the switched side of the plug.
Then I mounted a 100k pot (Radio Shack Part # 271-0092) in a small Radio Shack Project Box, attacked a length of speaker wire to the pot, attached a 1/8 plug to the other end of the wire. And I now have a removable Vari-Power Control.
With the control unplugged all the settings on the flash work normally. When I plug the control in I get variable power from full power to about 1/64 power (or so it seems with a quick test).
As the jack is wired into the sensor unit on the front of the flash I have to set the flash to one of the 'auto dedicated f-stop' settings on the back. (This module has three of them). Then I can use the control unit and adjust the power from the auto f-stop selected up to full power.
Here are some of the Flash Meter readings I took with a Sekonic L-508 Zoom Master Meter:
(Set Up- Flash and Meter set to 100 ISO. Meter about 5 feet from flash. Flash powered by a Quantum 1+ battery. 10 seconds between flashes. Fired via Cactus V4).
(Try this with your own flash. See exactly how accurate those 'Auto' settings are)
With the Control Unplugged
Flash - - - Meter
Setting - Reading
F/2 - - - - - F/2
F/4 - - - - - F/2.8
F/8 - - - - - F/4
Full
Power - - F/16
1/16
Power - - F/4
With the control plugged in and the flash set to the auto F/2 setting:
Dial all the way left - - F/2
Dial all the way right - - F/16
At various settings in between I got the expected range of power somewhat consistent with where the dial was set. Just over half way I got F/11. So all the lower stops (F/2.8 - 8) were in the first 1/2 turn of the dial. I haven't taken the time to pinpoint where on the dial each stop was yet..
I repeated the tests with a piece of black tape over the sensor just to make sure it was not active with the control plugged in. With the control unplugged and the flash set for F/2 I would get a full power flash if I covered the sensor. With the control plugged in it made no difference if the sensor was covered or not.
I would presume this would work with just about any flash. If you decide to try it I offer no guarantees on your flash if it dies when you do this.