View allAll Photos Tagged Fasteners
20 Inch S10 Deep Concave Wheels. Color-matched Centers/ Brushed Aluminum Windows And Register. Gloss Black Fasteners. Chrome Lips. Gloss Black Inner Barrels. 20x9.5/ 20x10.5
Added a fastener at the end of the zip cover to keep things tight and tidy. (And to take my mind of the buzzing problem in ignition position 2...)
R10 Signature Series Wheels. Gloss Red Centers. Chrome Lips. Chrome Fasteners. Gloss Black Inner Barrels. 19x10/ 20x13
Kishidan, which means "The Knights", are a pop band. They have a retro image, wearing Japanese school uniforms in the style of bōsōzoku.
C.S. Osborne snap fasteners are interchangeable with durable fasteners. Sold 100 sets per box. Copper Black in color. Sets are comprised of 4 pieces: cap, socket, stud and eyelet. Eyelet and cap are 1/4" tall.
I used these seven drawers (all made out of Douglas fir, mostly) to experiment with finishes:
o General Finishes Arm-R-Seal
o Minwax Water Based Oil-Modified Polyurethane
o Minwax Wipe-On Poly
o Rust-Oleum Ultimate Spar Varnish
o Tung Oil
o Watco Danish Oil
o Waterlox Original Satin Finish
I was surprised how good some of these finishes made the Douglas fir look.
Fasteners and the bolts that hold the toilet bowl base to the flange. A 1/4-20 brass T bolt broke, and this is the upgrade. The previous plumber had installed nuts to hold the bolts to the flange as well as the ones to hold down the toilet base. Smart idea, thank you. I repeated with larger hardware.
Left to right:
5/16", 18 threads per inch stainless steel carriage bolt;
Brass washer to space back from the back of the flange;
(where the flange goes)
Stainless steel washer above flange;
Bronze lock washer;
Brass nut #1 to hold bolt to flange;
(where the toilet bowl base goes)
Stainless steel washer above bowl base;
Plastic washer to lock nut cover;
Stainless steel nylon lock-nut #2;
Plastic nut cover
How did we get here? 1/4-20 brass T-bolt broke off 1/2 of the "T" I thought 'bigger = better" and got a 5/16 brass T bolt set. When I tried to tighten the #1 nut, the T turned from across the slot in the flange to diagonally across the slot and higher in the slot- same angle that the previous bolt broke at. The back of the flange wasn't flat! Cross section was diagonal, not straight up and down:
Bolt:
__ || ___
__/ || \__ Flange:
. . === . . "T" head
No all-thread machine screws at the store, either Brass or Stainless Steel. Then I spotted the stainless steel carriage bolts. The slot was quite big enough for the square base, but the square bit was too tall for #1 nut to clamp down onto the flange.
Carrage Bolt:
. __||__ mid washer
___[ ]____________
__/ [ ] \__ Flange:__
. . === . .
Head
So I added a washer between the head of the carriage bolt and the bottom of the flange:
Carrage Bolt:
___ || __ mid washer
___ || ____________
__/ [ ] \__ Flange:___
. .---[ ]-- . bottom washer
. . ==== . .
Head
I filed out the hole in the bottom washer until it slipped over the square boss on the carriage bolt, but I had to file smaller circles at the four points of the boss. THEN the washer lay flat against the head of the bolt. The resulting hole in the brass washer looks squareish- like a 1960 cartoon of a crt.
The brass nut and bronze split ring are holdovers from when I was going to use a brass 5/16 T boit.
I could have repurposed the brass screws (full length threads) that hold the tank to the bowl, but but I wasn't sure I wouldn't need them. So I held off.