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We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
I was in the area, checking up on the Heath Spotted Orchids, and the church was a five minute drive away, in the grounds of a former country house.
I park at the church and find it locked, as expected, but there were directions to a keyholder nearby, walking into the cobbled squares and converted estate buildings now executive housing.
I ring the bell: nothing
I ring again: nothing
I use the knocker: dog barks. Dog attacks the door.
There is angry voices. Or voice. There was the sound of the dog being put into a side room, and the struggle to close the door.
The front door opened: yes?
Can I have the church key, please?
Not sure if I still have it.
Why'd you want it?
To photograph the interior.
Who're with?
I'm with no one, I am photographing all parish churches in the county, and would like to do this one. I showed him my driving licence which should say under job title: obsessive and church crawler.
He seemed satisfied, and let me have the key.
Phew.
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Substantially rebuilt after a fire of 1598. The welcoming interior displays no chancel arch, although the doorways in the arcade show where the medieval rood screen ran the width of the church. The striking east window was designed by Wallace Wood in 1954. There is a good aumbry and piscina nearby. To the north of the chancel stands the excellent tomb chest of Sir John Tufton (d. 1624). The arcade into which it is built was lowered to allow a semi-circular alabaster ceiling to be inserted to set the composition off. Because it is completely free-standing it is one of the easiest tomb chests in Kent to study, with five sons kneeling on the south side and four daughters on the north . In addition there are complicated coats of arms and an inscription which records the rebuilding of the church by Tufton after the fire. On top of the chest lie Sir John and his wife, with their son Nicholas kneeling between their heads. Much of the monument is still covered with its original paint. The organ, which stands in the south aisle, may be the instrument on which Sir Arthur Sullivan composed 'The Lost Chord'. It originally stood in Hothfield Place where Sullivan was a frequent guest.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Hothfield
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HOTHFIELD
IS the next parish northward from Great Chart, and is so called from the bothe, or heath within it. The greatest part of this parish lies within the hundred of Chart and Longbridge, and the remainder in that of Calehill. It is in the division of East Kent.
THE PARISH of Hothfield lies a little more than two miles from Ashford north-westward, the high road from which towards Lenham and Maidstone goes through it over Hothfield heath. It contains about 1250 acres, and fifty houses, the rents of it are about 1300l. per annum. It is not a pleasant, nor is it accounted a healthy situation, owing probably to the many low and watry lands in and about it. The river Stour, which rises at Lenham, runs along the southern side of the parish, which is watered likewise by several small streams, which rise about Charing and Westwell, from under the chalk hills, and join the Stour here. The heath, which contains near one half of the parish, consists mostly of a deep sand, and has much peat on it, which is continually dug by the poor for firing. On the east and west sides of the heath, the latter being called West-street, are two hamlets of houses, which form the scattered village of Hothfield. The Place-house stands on a hill, at a small distance from the corner of the heath southward, with some small plantations of trees about it, forming a principal object to the country round it. It is a square mansion, built of Portland stone, by the late earl of Thanet, on the scite of the antient mansion, close to the church; it has a good prospect round it. The adjoining grass grounds are extensive, and well laid out for the view over them; the water, which rises at no great distance from the house, becomes very soon a tolerable sized stream, and running on in sight of it, joins the Stour a little above Worting mill; these grass lands are fertile and good fatting land, like those mentioned before, near Godington, in Great Chart. The parsonage house, which is a neat dwelling of white stucco, stands at the southern corner of the heath, at the foot of the hill, adjoining the Place grounds, near West-street. Between the heath and Potter's corner, towards Ashford, the soil begins to approach much of the quarry stone.
Though the land in the parish is naturally poor, it is rendered productive by the chalk and lime procured from the down hills. The inhabitants have an unlimited right of commoning with those of the adjoining parish of Westwell, to upwards of five hundred acres of common, which affords them the means of keeping a cow and their poultry, which, with the liberty of digging peat, draws a number of certificated poor to reside here. There is not one dissenter in the parish.
Jack Cade, the noted rebel, in Henry the VI.th's reign, though generally supposed to be taken by Alexander Iden, esq. the sheriff, in a field belonging to Ripple manor, in the adjoining parish of Westwell, was discovered, as some say, in a field in this parish, still named from him, Jack Cade's field, now laid open with the rest of the grounds adjoining to Hothfieldplace.
The plant caryophyllata montena, or water avens, which is a very uncommon one, grows in a wood near Barber's hill, in this parish.
THE MANOR OF HOTHFIELD seems, in very early times, to have had the same owners as the barony of Chilham, and to have continued so, for a considerable length of time after the descendants of Fulbert de Dover were become extinct here. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, who in the 5th year of king Edward II. had a grant of this manor as well as of Chilham in see, appears to have held this manor of Hothfield by grand sergeantry of the archbishop, and accordingly, in the 8th year of it, at the enthroning of archbishop Walter Reynolds, he made his claim, and was allowed to perform the office of chamberlain for that day, and to serve up the water, for the archbishop to wash his hands; for which his fees were, the furniture of his bedchamber, and the bason and towel made use of for that purpose; (fn. 1) and in the next year he obtained of the king, a charter of free-warren for his demesne lands within this manor among others. After this the manor of Hothfield continued to be held by the like service, and continued in the same owners as that of Chilham, (fn. 2) down to Thomas lord Roos, who became entitled to the see of it, who for his attachment to the house of Lancaster, was, with others, attainted, in the 1st year of king Edward IV.'s reign, and his lands confiscated to the crown. But Margaret his mother, being possessed of it for her life, afterwards married Roger Wentworth, esq. whom she survived, and died possessed of it in the 18th year of that reign; upon which, by reason of the above attaint, the crown became entitled to it, the inquisition for which was found in the 4th year of that reign; immediately after which, the king granted it to Sir John Fogge, of Repton, who was comptroller of his household and one of his privy council, for his life. On king Richard III.'s accession to the crown, he took shelter in the abbey of Westminster, from whence he was invited by the king, who in the presence of a numerous assembly gave him his hand, and bid him be confident that from thenceforward he was sure to him in affection. This is rather mentioned, as divers chronicles have erroneously mentioned that he was an attorney, whom this prince had pardoned for forgery. He died possessed of it in the 17th year of Henry VII. where it remained till Henry VIII. granted it, at the very latter end of his reign, to John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, in Sussex, whose lands were disgavelled by the acts of 2 and 3 Edward VI. who afterwards resided at Hothfield, where he kept his shrievalty in the 3d year of queen Elizabeth. He was descended from ancestors who were originally written Toketon, and held lands in Rainham, in this county, as early as king John's reign; (fn. 3) one of whom was seated at Northiam, in Sussex, in king Richard the IId.'s reign, at which time they were written as at present, Tufton, and they continued there till John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, before-mentioned, removed hither. He died in 1567, and was buried in this church, leaving one son John Tufton, who resided at Hothfield-place, and in July, in the 16th year of queen Elizabeth, anno 1573, entertained the queen here, in her progress through this county. In the 17th year of that reign he was sheriff, and being a person of eminent repure and abilities, he was knighted by king James, in his 1st year, and created a baronet at the first institution of that order, on June 19, 1611. He married Olimpia, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. of Sileham, in Rainham, by whom he had three daughters; and secondly Christian, daughter and coheir of Sir Humphry Brown, a justice of the common pleas. He died in 1624, and was buried in this church, having had by her several sons and daughters. Of the former, Nicholas the eldest, succeeded him in title and estates. Sir Humphry was of Bobbing and the Mote, in Maidstone, and Sir William was of Vinters, in Boxley, both baronets, of whom further mention has already been made in the former parts of this history.
Sir Nicholas Tufton, the eldest son, was by letters patent, dated Nov. 1, anno 2 Charles I. created lord Tufton, baron of Tufton, in Sussex; and on August 5, in the 4th year of that reign, earl of the Isle of Thanet, in this county. He had four sons and nine daughters; of the former, John succeeded him in honors, and Cecil, was father of Sir Charles Tufton, of Twickenham, in Middlesex. John, the eldest son, second earl of Thanet, married in 1629 Margaret, eldest daughter and coheir of Richard, earl of Dorset, by his wife the lady Anne Clifford, sole daughter and heir of George, earl of Cumberland, and baroness of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy, by which marriage these tithes descended afterwards to their issue. In the time of the commonwealth, after king Charles the 1st.'s death, he was, in 1654, appointed sheriff, and however inconsistent it might be to his rank, yet he served the office. He left six sons and six daughters, and was succeeded by Nicholas his eldest son, third earl of Thanet, who by the deaths of his mother in 1676, and of his cousin-german Alethea, then wife of Edward Hungerford, esq. who died s. p. in 1678, he became heir to her, and sole heir to his grandmother Anne, lady Clifford, and consequently to the baronies of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy; dying s. p. he was succeeded as earl of Thanet and lord Clifford, &c. by his next brother John, who, on his mother's death, succeeded likewise by her will to her large estates in Yorkshire and Westmoreland, and to the hereditary in sheriffdoms of the latter and of Cumberland likewise, for it frequently happened in these hereditary sheriffdoms that female heirs became possessed of them, and consequently were sheriffs of those districts; but this was not at all an unusual thing, there being many frequent instances of women bearing that office, as may be seen in most of the books in which any mention is made of it, some instances of which the reader may see in the differtation on the office of sheriff, in vol. i. of this history. That part of their office which was incompatible for a woman to exercise, was always executed by a deputy, or shyre-clerk, in their name. But among the Harleian MSS. is a very remarkable note taken from Mr. Attorney-general Noys reading in Lincoln's inn, in 1632, in which, upon a point, whether the office of a justice of a forest might be executed by a woman; it was said, that Margaret, countess of Richmond, mother to king Henry VII. was a justice of peace; that the lady Bartlet, perhaps meant for Berkley, was also made a justice of the peace by queen Mary, in Gloucestershire; and that in Suffolk one ..... Rowse, a woman, did usually fit upon the bench at assizes and sessions among other justices, gladio cincta. John, earl of Thanet, died unmarried, as did his next brother earl Richard, so that the titles devolved to Thomas Tufton, who became the sixth earl of Thanet, and lord Clifford, which latter title was decreed to him by the house of peers in 1691. He left surviving issue five daughters and coheirs, the eldest of whom, Catherine, married Ed. Watson, viscount Sondes, son and heir of Lewis, earl of Rockingham; and the four others married likewise into noble families. He died at Hothfield in 1729, having by his will bequeathed several legacies to charitable purposes, especially towards the augmentation of small vicarages and curacies. He died without male issue, so that the titles of earl of Thanet and baron Tufton, and of baronet, descended to his nephew Sackville Tufton, eldest surviving son of his brother Sackville Tufton, fifth son of John, second earl of Thanet. But the title of baroness Clifford, which included those of Westmoreland and Vescy, upon the death of Thomas, earl of Thanet, without male issue, became in abeyance between his daughters and coheirs above-mentioned, and in 1734, king George II. confirmed that barony to Margaret, his third surviving daughter and coheir, married to Thomas Coke, lord Lovel, afterwards created earl of Leicester, which title is now again in abeyance by his death s. p. Which Sackville Tufton died in 1721, leaving Sackville the seventh earl of Thanet, whose eldest son of the same name succeeded him as eighth earl of Thanet, and rebuilt the present mansion of Hothfield-place, in which he afterwards resided, but being obliged to travel to Italy for his health, he died there at Nice in 1786, and was brought to England, and buried in the family vault at Rainham, in this county, where his several ancestors, earls of Thanet, with their countesses, and other branches of the family, lie deposited, from the time of their first accession to that title. He married Mary, daughter of lord John Philip Sackville, sister of the present duke of Dorset, by whom he had five sons and two daughters, Elizabeth; and Caroline married to Joseph Foster Barham, esq. Of the former, Sackville, born in 1769, succeeded him in honors; Charles died unmarried; John is M. P. for Appleby; Henry is M. P. for Rochester, and William. He was succeeded by his eldest son, the present right hon. Sackville Tufton, earl of Thanet, baron Tufton, lord of the honor of Skipton, in Craven, and baronet, and hereditary sheriff of the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, who is the present possessor of this manor and seat, and resides here, and is at present unmarried. (fn. 4)
The antient arms of Tufton were, Argent, on a pale, sable, an eagle displayed of the field; which coat they continued to bear till Nicholas Tufton, the first earl of Thanet, on his obtaining that earldom, altered it to that of Sable, an eagle displayed, ermine, within a bordure, argent; which coat was confirmed by Sir William Segar, garter, in 1628, and has been borne by his descendants to the present time. The present earl of Thanet bears for his coat of arms that last-mentioned; for his crest, On a wreath, a sea lion, seiant, proper; and for his supporters, Two eagles, their wings expanded, ermine.
SWINFORT, or Swinford, which is its more proper name, is a manor in this parish, lying in the southern part of it, near the river Stour, and probably took its name from some ford in former times over it here. However that be, it had formerly proprietors, who took their name from it; but they were never of any eminence, nor can I discover when they became extinct here; only that in king Henry V.'s reign it was in the possession of Bridges, descended from John atte Bregg, one of those eminent persons, whose effigies, kneeling and habited in armour, was painted in the window often mentioned before, in Great Chart church; and in this family the manor of Swinford continued till the latter end of king James I.'s reign, when it passed by sale from one of them to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, whose son John, earl of Thanet, before the 20th year of that reign, exchanged it for other lands, which lay more convenient to him, with his near neighbour Nicholas Toke, esq. of Godinton, in which family and name it has continued down, in like manner as that feat, to Nicholas Roundell Toke, esq. now of Godinton, the present possessor of it. A court baron is held for this manor.
FAUSLEY, or FOUSLEY, as it is now usually called, is the last manor to be described in this parish; its more antient name was Foughleslee, or, as it was usually pronounced, Faulesley; which name it gave to owners who in early times possessed and resided at it. John de Foughleslee, of Hothfield, was owner of it in the second year of king Richard II. and in his descendants this manor seems to have continued till about the beginning of queen Elizabeth's reign, when it passed by sale to Drury; from which name, at the latter end of it, this manor was conveyed to Paris, who immediately afterwards alienated it to Bull, who soon afterwards reconveyed it back again to the same family, whence, in the next reign of king James I. it was sold to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, in whose successors, earls of Thanet, it has continued down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, the present owner of it.
Charities.
RICHARD PARIS, by deed in 1577, gave for the use of the poor, a rent charge of 16s. per annum, out of land called Hanvilles, in this parish; the trustees of which have been long ago deceased, and no new ones appointed since.
THOMAS KIPPS, gent. of Canterbury, by will in 1680, gave for the use of the same, an annual rent charge of 1l. out of lards in Great Chart.
RICHARD MADOCKE, clothier, of this parish, by will in 1596, ordered that the 11l. which he had lent to the parishioners of Hothfield, towards the rebuilding of their church, should, when repaid, be as a stock to the poor of this parish for ever.
SIR JOHN TUFTON, knight and baronet, and Nicholas his son, first earl of Thanet, by their wills in 1620 and in 1630, gave certain sums of money, with which were purchased eight acres of land in the parish of Kingsnoth, of the annual produce of 10l.
DR. JOHN GRANDORGE, by deed in 1713, gave a house and land in Newington, near Hythe, of the annual produce of 7l. which premises are vested in the earl of Thanet.
THOMAS, EARL OF THANET, and SACKVILLE TUFTON. Esq. grandfather of the present earl, by their deeds in 1720 and 1726, gave for a school mistress to teach 24 poor children, a rent charge and a house and two gardens, in Hothfield, the produce in money 20l. The premises were vested in Sir Penyston Lambe and Dr. John Grandorge, long since deceased; since which the trust has not been renewed; and the original writings are in the earl of Thanet's possession.
Such of the above benefactions as have been contributed by the Tufton family, have been ordered by their descendants to be distributed annually by the steward of Hothfield-place for the time being, without the interference of the parish officers, to such as received no relief from this parish; the family looking upon these rather as a private munisicence intended to continue under their direction.
The poor annually relieved are about twenty-five, casually as many.
HOTHFIELD is situated within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
¶The church, which is small, is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of three isles and a chancel, having a low spire steeple, covered with shingles at the west end, in which are five bells, and though it stands on a hill, is yet very damp. There is not any painted glass in the windows of it. On the north side in it, is a monument of curious workmanship, having the figures of a man and woman, in full proportion, lying at length on it; at three corners of it are those of two sons and one daughter, kneeling, weeping, all in white marble; round the edges is an inscription, for Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, and Olympia his wife, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. On the monument are the arms of Tufton, with quarterings and impalements; on the sides are two inscriptions, one, that he re-edified this church after it was burnt, at his own charge, and under it made a vault for himself and his posterity, and after that he had lived eighty years, departed this life; the other enumerating his good qualities, and saying that by his will he gave perpetual legacies to this parish and that of Rainham. This monument is parted off from the north isle by a strong partition of wooden balustrades, seven feet high. The vault underneath is at most times several feet deep with water, and the few coffins which were remaining in it were some years since removed to the vaults at Rainham, where this family have been deposited ever since. On the north side of the chancel is a smaller one, formerly called St. Margaret's chapel, now shut up, and made no use of. In the south isle is a memorial for Rebecca, wife of William Henman, esq. obt. 1739, and Anna-Rebecca, their daughter, obt. 1752; arms, A lion, between three mascles, impaling a bend, cotized, engrailed. This church, which is a rectory, was always esteemed an appendage to the manor, and has passed accordingly, in like manner with it, down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, lord of the manor of Hothfield, the present patron of it.
This rectory is valued in the king's books at 17l. 5s. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 14s. 6d.
There was a pension of ten shillings paid from it to the college of Wye. In 1588 here were communicants one hundred and ninety-three, and it was valued at eighty pounds. In 1640, communicants one hundred and ninety, and valued at only sixty pounds per annum. There is a modus of two pence an acre of the pasture lands in the parish. There are twelve acres of glebe. It is now worth about one hundred and twenty pounds per annum.
Richard Hall, of this parish, by will in 1524, ordered that his feoffees should enfeoffe certain honest persons in his house and garden here, set beside the pelery, to the intent that the yearly serme of them should go to the maintenance of the rode-light within the church.
This church was burnt down in the reign of king James I. and was rebuilt at the sole expence of Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, who died in 1624. His descendant Thomas, earl of Thanet, who died in 1729, gave the present altar-piece, some of the pewing, and the pulpit.
A couple of weeks back, we met a couple in a pub in Canterbury, and they had been out exploring the city and said they were disappointed by the cathedral.
Not enough labels they said.
That not withstanding, I thought it had been some time since I last had been, so decided to revisit, see the pillars of Reculver church in the crypt and take the big lens for some detail shots.
We arrived just after ten, so the cathedral was pretty free of other guests, just a few guides waiting for groups and couples to guide.
I went round with the 50mm first, before concentrating on the medieval glass which is mostly on the south side.
But as you will see, the lens picked up so much more.
Thing is, there is always someone interesting to talk to, or wants to talk to you. As I went around, I spoke with about three guides about the project and things I have seen in the churches of the county, and the wonderful people I have met. And that continued in the cathedral.
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St Augustine, the first Archbishop of Canterbury, arrived on the coast of Kent as a missionary to England in 597AD. He came from Rome, sent by Pope Gregory the Great. It is said that Gregory had been struck by the beauty of Angle slaves he saw for sale in the city market and despatched Augustine and some monks to convert them to Christianity. Augustine was given a church at Canterbury (St Martin’s, after St Martin of Tours, still standing today) by the local King, Ethelbert whose Queen, Bertha, a French Princess, was already a Christian.This building had been a place of worship during the Roman occupation of Britain and is the oldest church in England still in use. Augustine had been consecrated a bishop in France and was later made an archbishop by the Pope. He established his seat within the Roman city walls (the word cathedral is derived from the the Latin word for a chair ‘cathedra’, which is itself taken from the Greek ‘kathedra’ meaning seat.) and built the first cathedral there, becoming the first Archbishop of Canterbury. Since that time, there has been a community around the Cathedral offering daily prayer to God; this community is arguably the oldest organisation in the English speaking world. The present Archbishop, The Most Revd Justin Welby, is 105th in the line of succession from Augustine. Until the 10th century, the Cathedral community lived as the household of the Archbishop. During the 10th century, it became a formal community of Benedictine monks, which continued until the monastery was dissolved by King Henry VIII in 1540. Augustine’s original building lies beneath the floor of the Nave – it was extensively rebuilt and enlarged by the Saxons, and the Cathedral was rebuilt completely by the Normans in 1070 following a major fire. There have been many additions to the building over the last nine hundred years, but parts of the Quire and some of the windows and their stained glass date from the 12th century. By 1077, Archbishop Lanfranc had rebuilt it as a Norman church, described as “nearly perfect”. A staircase and parts of the North Wall – in the area of the North West transept also called the Martyrdom – remain from that building.
Canterbury’s role as one of the world’s most important pilgrimage centres in Europe is inextricably linked to the murder of its most famous Archbishop, Thomas Becket, in 1170. When, after a long lasting dispute, King Henry II is said to have exclaimed “Who will rid me of this turbulent priest?”, four knights set off for Canterbury and murdered Thomas in his own cathedral. A sword stroke was so violent that it sliced the crown off his skull and shattered the blade’s tip on the pavement. The murder took place in what is now known as The Martyrdom. When shortly afterwards, miracles were said to take place, Canterbury became one of Europe’s most important pilgrimage centres.
The work of the Cathedral as a monastery came to an end in 1540, when the monastery was closed on the orders of King Henry VIII. Its role as a place of prayer continued – as it does to this day. Once the monastery had been suppressed, responsibility for the services and upkeep was given to a group of clergy known as the Chapter of Canterbury. Today, the Cathedral is still governed by the Dean and four Canons, together (in recent years) with four lay people and the Archdeacon of Ashford. During the Civil War of the 1640s, the Cathedral suffered damage at the hands of the Puritans; much of the medieval stained glass was smashed and horses were stabled in the Nave. After the Restoration in 1660, several years were spent in repairing the building. In the early 19th Century, the North West tower was found to be dangerous, and, although it dated from Lanfranc’s time, it was demolished in the early 1830s and replaced by a copy of the South West tower, thus giving a symmetrical appearance to the west end of the Cathedral. During the Second World War, the Precincts were heavily damaged by enemy action and the Cathedral’s Library was destroyed. Thankfully, the Cathedral itself was not seriously harmed, due to the bravery of the team of fire watchers, who patrolled the roofs and dealt with the incendiary bombs dropped by enemy bombers. Today, the Cathedral stands as a place where prayer to God has been offered daily for over 1,400 years; nearly 2,000 Services are held each year, as well as countless private prayers from individuals. The Cathedral offers a warm welcome to all visitors – its aim is to show people Jesus, which we do through the splendour of the building as well as the beauty of the worship.
www.canterbury-cathedral.org/heritage/history/cathedral-h...
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History of the cathedral
THE ORIGIN of a Christian church on the scite of the present cathedral, is supposed to have taken place as early as the Roman empire in Britain, for the use of the antient faithful and believing soldiers of their garrison here; and that Augustine found such a one standing here, adjoining to king Ethelbert's palace, which was included in the king's gift to him.
This supposition is founded on the records of the priory of Christ-church, (fn. 1) concurring with the common opinion of almost all our historians, who tell us of a church in Canterbury, which Augustine found standing in the east part of the city, which he had of king Ethelbert's gift, which after his consecration at Arles, in France, he commended by special dedication to the patronage of our blessed Saviour. (fn. 2)
According to others, the foundations only of an old church formerly built by the believing Romans, were left here, on which Augustine erected that, which he afterwards dedicated to out Saviour; (fn. 3) and indeed it is not probable that king Ethelbert should have suffered the unsightly ruins of a Christian church, which, being a Pagan, must have been very obnoxious to him, so close to his palace, and supposing these ruins had been here, would he not have suffered them to be repaired, rather than have obliged his Christian queen to travel daily to such a distance as St. Martin's church, or St. Pancrace's chapel, for the performance of her devotions.
Some indeed have conjectured that the church found by St. Augustine, in the east part of the city, was that of St.Martin, truly so situated; and urge in favor of it, that there have not been at any time any remains of British or Roman bricks discovered scattered in or about this church of our Saviour, those infallible, as Mr. Somner stiles them, signs of antiquity, and so generally found in buildings, which have been erected on, or close to the spot where more antient ones have stood. But to proceed, king Ethelbert's donation to Augustine was made in the year 596, who immediately afterwards went over to France, and was consecrated a bishop at Arles, and after his return, as soon as he had sufficiently finished a church here, whether built out of ruins or anew, it matters not, he exercised his episcopal function in the dedication of it, says the register of Christ-church, to the honor of Christ our Saviour; whence it afterwards obtained the name of Christ-church. (fn. 4)
From the time of Augustine for the space of upwards of three hundred years, there is not found in any printed or manuscript chronicle, the least mention of the fabric of this church, so that it is probable nothing befell it worthy of being recorded; however it should be mentioned, that during that period the revenues of it were much increased, for in the leiger books of it there are registered more than fifty donations of manors, lands, &c. so large and bountiful, as became the munificence of kings and nobles to confer. (fn. 5)
It is supposed, especially as we find no mention made of any thing to the contrary, that the fabric of this church for two hundred years after Augustine's time, met with no considerable molestations; but afterwards, the frequent invasions of the Danes involved both the civil and ecclesiastical state of this country in continual troubles and dangers; in the confusion of which, this church appears to have run into a state of decay; for when Odo was promoted to the archbishopric, in the year 938, the roof of it was in a ruinous condition; age had impaired it, and neglect had made it extremely dangerous; the walls of it were of an uneven height, according as it had been more or less decayed, and the roof of the church seemed ready to fall down on the heads of those underneath. All this the archbishop undertook to repair, and then covered the whole church with lead; to finish which, it took three years, as Osbern tells us, in the life of Odo; (fn. 6) and further, that there was not to be found a church of so large a size, capable of containing so great a multitude of people, and thus, perhaps, it continued without any material change happening to it, till the year 1011; a dismal and fatal year to this church and city; a time of unspeakable confusion and calamities; for in the month of September that year, the Danes, after a siege of twenty days, entered this city by force, burnt the houses, made a lamentable slaughter of the inhabitants, rifled this church, and then set it on fire, insomuch, that the lead with which archbishop Odo had covered it, being melted, ran down on those who were underneath. The sull story of this calamity is given by Osbern, in the life of archbishop Odo, an abridgement of which the reader will find below. (fn. 7)
The church now lay in ruins, without a roof, the bare walls only standing, and in this desolate condition it remained as long as the fury of the Danes prevailed, who after they had burnt the church, carried away archbishop Alphage with them, kept him in prison seven months, and then put him to death, in the year 1012, the year after which Living, or Livingus, succeeded him as archbishop, though it was rather in his calamities than in his seat of dignity, for he too was chained up by the Danes in a loathsome dungeon for seven months, before he was set free, but he so sensibly felt the deplorable state of this country, which he foresaw was every day growing worse and worse, that by a voluntary exile, he withdrew himself out of the nation, to find some solitary retirement, where he might bewail those desolations of his country, to which he was not able to bring any relief, but by his continual prayers. (fn. 8) He just outlived this storm, returned into England, and before he died saw peace and quientness restored to this land by king Canute, who gaining to himself the sole sovereignty over the nation, made it his first business to repair the injuries which had been done to the churches and monasteries in this kingdom, by his father's and his own wars. (fn. 9)
As for this church, archbishop Ægelnoth, who presided over it from the year 1020 to the year 1038, began and finished the repair, or rather the rebuilding of it, assisted in it by the royal munificence of the king, (fn. 10) who in 1023 presented his crown of gold to this church, and restored to it the port of Sandwich, with its liberties. (fn. 11) Notwithstanding this, in less than forty years afterwards, when Lanfranc soon after the Norman conquest came to the see, he found this church reduced almost to nothing by fire, and dilapidations; for Eadmer says, it had been consumed by a third conflagration, prior to the year of his advancement to it, in which fire almost all the antient records of the privileges of it had perished. (fn. 12)
The same writer has given us a description of this old church, as it was before Lanfranc came to the see; by which we learn, that at the east end there was an altar adjoining to the wall of the church, of rough unhewn stone, cemented with mortar, erected by archbishop Odo, for a repository of the body of Wilfrid, archbishop of York, which Odo had translated from Rippon hither, giving it here the highest place; at a convenient distance from this, westward, there was another altar, dedicated to Christ our Saviour, at which divine service was daily celebrated. In this altar was inclosed the head of St. Swithin, with many other relics, which archbishop Alphage brought with him from Winchester. Passing from this altar westward, many steps led down to the choir and nave, which were both even, or upon the same level. At the bottom of the steps, there was a passage into the undercroft, under all the east part of the church. (fn. 13) At the east end of which, was an altar, in which was inclosed, according to old tradition, the head of St. Furseus. From hence by a winding passage, at the west end of it, was the tomb of St. Dunstan, (fn. 14) but separated from the undercroft by a strong stone wall; over the tomb was erected a monument, pyramid wife, and at the head of it an altar, (fn. 15) for the mattin service. Between these steps, or passage into the undercroft and the nave, was the choir, (fn. 16) which was separated from the nave by a fair and decent partition, to keep off the crowds of people that usually were in the body of the church, so that the singing of the chanters in the choir might not be disturbed. About the middle of the length of the nave, were two towers or steeples, built without the walls; one on the south, and the other on the north side. In the former was the altar of St. Gregory, where was an entrance into the church by the south door, and where law controversies and pleas concerning secular matters were exercised. (fn. 17) In the latter, or north tower, was a passage for the monks into the church, from the monastery; here were the cloysters, where the novices were instructed in their religious rules and offices, and where the monks conversed together. In this tower was the altar of St. Martin. At the west end of the church was a chapel, dedicated to the blessed Virgin Mary, to which there was an ascent by steps, and at the east end of it an altar, dedicated to her, in which was inclosed the head of St. Astroburta the Virgin; and at the western part of it was the archbishop's pontifical chair, made of large stones, compacted together with mortar; a fair piece of work, and placed at a convenient distance from the altar, close to the wall of the church. (fn. 18)
To return now to archbishop Lanfranc, who was sent for from Normandy in 1073, being the fourth year of the Conqueror's reign, to fill this see, a time, when a man of a noble spirit, equal to the laborious task he was to undertake, was wanting especially for this church; and that he was such, the several great works which were performed by him, were incontestable proofs, as well as of his great and generous mind. At the first sight of the ruinous condition of this church, says the historian, the archbishop was struck with astonishment, and almost despaired of seeing that and the monastery re edified; but his care and perseverance raised both in all its parts anew, and that in a novel and more magnificent kind and form of structure, than had been hardly in any place before made use of in this kingdom, which made it a precedent and pattern to succeeding structures of this kind; (fn. 19) and new monasteries and churches were built after the example of it; for it should be observed, that before the coming of the Normans most of the churches and monasteries in this kingdom were of wood; (all the monasteries in my realm, says king Edgar, in his charter to the abbey of Malmesbury, dated anno 974, to the outward sight are nothing but worm-eaten and rotten timber and boards) but after the Norman conquest, such timber fabrics grew out of use, and gave place to stone buildings raised upon arches; a form of structure introduced into general use by that nation, and in these parts surnished with stone from Caen, in Normandy. (fn. 20) After this fashion archbishop Lanfranc rebuilt the whole church from the foundation, with the palace and monastery, the wall which encompassed the court, and all the offices belonging to the monastery within the wall, finishing the whole nearly within the compass of seven years; (fn. 21) besides which, he furnished the church with ornaments and rich vestments; after which, the whole being perfected, he altered the name of it, by a dedication of it to the Holy Trinity; whereas, before it was called the church of our Saviour, or Christ-church, and from the above time it bore (as by Domesday book appears) the name of the church of the Holy Trinity; this new church being built on the same spot on which the antient one stood, though on a far different model.
After Lanfranc's death, archbishop Anselm succeeded in the year 1093, to the see of Canterbury, and must be esteemed a principal benefactor to this church; for though his time was perplexed with a continued series of troubles, of which both banishment and poverty made no small part, which in a great measure prevented him from bestowing that cost on his church, which he would otherwise have done, yet it was through his patronage and protection, and through his care and persuasions, that the fabric of it, begun and perfected by his predecessor, became enlarged and rose to still greater splendor. (fn. 22)
In order to carry this forward, upon the vacancy of the priory, he constituted Ernulph and Conrad, the first in 1104, the latter in 1108, priors of this church; to whose care, being men of generous and noble minds, and of singular skill in these matters, he, during his troubles, not only committed the management of this work, but of all his other concerns during his absence.
Probably archbishop Anselm, on being recalled from banishment on king Henry's accession to the throne, had pulled down that part of the church built by Lanfranc, from the great tower in the middle of it to the east end, intending to rebuild it upon a still larger and more magnificent plan; when being borne down by the king's displeasure, he intrusted prior Ernulph with the work, who raised up the building with such splendor, says Malmesbury, that the like was not to be seen in all England; (fn. 23) but the short time Ernulph continued in this office did not permit him to see his undertaking finished. (fn. 24) This was left to his successor Conrad, who, as the obituary of Christ church informs us, by his great industry, magnificently perfected the choir, which his predecessor had left unfinished, (fn. 25) adorning it with curious pictures, and enriching it with many precious ornaments. (fn. 26)
This great undertaking was not entirely compleated at the death of archbishop Anselm, which happened in 1109, anno 9 Henry I. nor indeed for the space of five years afterwards, during which the see of Canterbury continued vacant; when being finished, in honour of its builder, and on account of its more than ordinary beauty, it gained the name of the glorious choir of Conrad. (fn. 27)
After the see of Canterbury had continued thus vacant for five years, Ralph, or as some call him, Rodulph, bishop of Rochester, was translated to it in the year 1114, at whose coming to it, the church was dedicated anew to the Holy Trinity, the name which had been before given to it by Lanfranc. (fn. 28) The only particular description we have of this church when thus finished, is from Gervas, the monk of this monastery, and that proves imperfect, as to the choir of Lanfranc, which had been taken down soon after his death; (fn. 29) the following is his account of the nave, or western part of it below the choir, being that which had been erected by archbishop Lanfranc, as has been before mentioned. From him we learn, that the west end, where the chapel of the Virgin Mary stood before, was now adorned with two stately towers, on the top of which were gilded pinnacles. The nave or body was supported by eight pair of pillars. At the east end of the nave, on the north side, was an oratory, dedicated in honor to the blessed Virgin, in lieu, I suppose, of the chapel, that had in the former church been dedicated to her at the west end. Between the nave and the choir there was built a great tower or steeple, as it were in the centre of the whole fabric; (fn. 30) under this tower was erected the altar of the Holy Cross; over a partition, which separated this tower from the nave, a beam was laid across from one side to the other of the church; upon the middle of this beam was fixed a great cross, between the images of the Virgin Mary and St. John, and between two cherubims. The pinnacle on the top of this tower, was a gilded cherub, and hence it was called the angel steeple; a name it is frequently called by at this day. (fn. 31)
This great tower had on each side a cross isle, called the north and south wings, which were uniform, of the same model and dimensions; each of them had a strong pillar in the middle for a support to the roof, and each of them had two doors or passages, by which an entrance was open to the east parts of the church. At one of these doors there was a descent by a few steps into the undercroft; at the other, there was an ascent by many steps into the upper parts of the church, that is, the choir, and the isles on each side of it. Near every one of these doors or passages, an altar was erected; at the upper door in the south wing, there was an altar in honour of All Saints; and at the lower door there was one of St. Michael; and before this altar on the south side was buried archbishop Fleologild; and on the north side, the holy Virgin Siburgis, whom St. Dunstan highly admired for her sanctity. In the north isle, by the upper door, was the altar of St. Blaze; and by the lower door, that of St. Benedict. In this wing had been interred four archbishops, Adelm and Ceolnoth, behind the altar, and Egelnoth and Wlfelm before it. At the entrance into this wing, Rodulph and his successor William Corboil, both archbishops, were buried. (fn. 32)
Hence, he continues, we go up by some steps into the great tower, and before us there is a door and steps leading down into the south wing, and on the right hand a pair of folding doors, with stairs going down into the nave of the church; but without turning to any of these, let us ascend eastward, till by several more steps we come to the west end of Conrad's choir; being now at the entrance of the choir, Gervas tells us, that he neither saw the choir built by Lanfranc, nor found it described by any one; that Eadmer had made mention of it, without giving any account of it, as he had done of the old church, the reason of which appears to be, that Lanfranc's choir did not long survive its founder, being pulled down as before-mentioned, by archbishop Anselm; so that it could not stand more than twenty years; therefore the want of a particular description of it will appear no great defect in the history of this church, especially as the deficiency is here supplied by Gervas's full relation of the new choir of Conrad, built instead of it; of which, whoever desires to know the whole architecture and model observed in the fabric, the order, number, height and form of the pillars and windows, may know the whole of it from him. The roof of it, he tells us, (fn. 33) was beautified with curious paintings representing heaven; (fn. 34) in several respects it was agreeable to the present choir, the stalls were large and framed of carved wood. In the middle of it, there hung a gilded crown, on which were placed four and twenty tapers of wax. From the choir an ascent of three steps led to the presbiterium, or place for the presbiters; here, he says, it would be proper to stop a little and take notice of the high altar, which was dedicated to the name of CHRIST. It was placed between two other altars, the one of St. Dunstan, the other of St. Alphage; at the east corners of the high altar were fixed two pillars of wood, beautified with silver and gold; upon these pillars was placed a beam, adorned with gold, which reached across the church, upon it there were placed the glory, (fn. 35) the images of St. Dunstan and St. Alphage, and seven chests or coffers overlaid with gold, full of the relics of many saints. Between those pillars was a cross gilded all over, and upon the upper beam of the cross were set sixty bright crystals.
Beyond this, by an ascent of eight steps towards the east, behind the altar, was the archiepiscopal throne, which Gervas calls the patriarchal chair, made of one stone; in this chair, according to the custom of the church, the archbishop used to sit, upon principal festivals, in his pontifical ornaments, whilst the solemn offices of religion were celebrated, until the consecration of the host, when he came down to the high altar, and there performed the solemnity of consecration. Still further, eastward, behind the patriarchal chair, (fn. 36) was a chapel in the front of the whole church, in which was an altar, dedicated to the Holy Trinity; behind which were laid the bones of two archbishops, Odo of Canterbury, and Wilfrid of York; by this chapel on the south side near the wall of the church, was laid the body of archbishop Lanfranc, and on the north side, the body of archbishop Theobald. Here it is to be observed, that under the whole east part of the church, from the angel steeple, there was an undercrost or crypt, (fn. 37) in which were several altars, chapels and sepulchres; under the chapel of the Trinity before-mentioned, were two altars, on the south side, the altar of St. Augustine, the apostle of the English nation, by which archbishop Athelred was interred. On the north side was the altar of St. John Baptist, by which was laid the body of archbishop Eadsin; under the high altar was the chapel and altar of the blessed Virgin Mary, to whom the whole undercroft was dedicated.
To return now, he continues, to the place where the bresbyterium and choir meet, where on each side there was a cross isle (as was to be seen in his time) which might be called the upper south and north wings; on the east side of each of these wings were two half circular recesses or nooks in the wall, arched over after the form of porticoes. Each of them had an altar, and there was the like number of altars under them in the crost. In the north wing, the north portico had the altar of St. Martin, by which were interred the bodies of two archbishops, Wlfred on the right, and Living on the left hand; under it in the croft, was the altar of St. Mary Magdalen. The other portico in this wing, had the altar of St. Stephen, and by it were buried two archbishops, Athelard on the left hand, and Cuthbert on the right; in the croft under it, was the altar of St. Nicholas. In the south wing, the north portico had the altar of St. John the Evangelist, and by it the bodies of Æthelgar and Aluric, archbishops, were laid. In the croft under it was the altar of St. Paulinus, by which the body of archbishop Siricius was interred. In the south portico was the altar of St. Gregory, by which were laid the corps of the two archbishops Bregwin and Plegmund. In the croft under it was the altar of St. Owen, archbishop of Roan, and underneath in the croft, not far from it the altar of St. Catherine.
Passing from these cross isles eastward there were two towers, one on the north, the other on the south side of the church. In the tower on the north side was the altar of St. Andrew, which gave name to the tower; under it, in the croft, was the altar of the Holy Innocents; the tower on the south side had the altar of St. Peter and St. Paul, behind which the body of St. Anselm was interred, which afterwards gave name both to the altar and tower (fn. 38) (now called St. Anselm's). The wings or isles on each side of the choir had nothing in particular to be taken notice of.— Thus far Gervas, from whose description we in particular learn, where several of the bodies of the old archbishops were deposited, and probably the ashes of some of them remain in the same places to this day.
As this building, deservedly called the glorious choir of Conrad, was a magnificent work, so the undertaking of it at that time will appear almost beyond example, especially when the several circumstances of it are considered; but that it was carried forward at the archbishop's cost, exceeds all belief. It was in the discouraging reign of king William Rufus, a prince notorious in the records of history, for all manner of sacrilegious rapine, that archbishop Anselm was promoted to this see; when he found the lands and revenues of this church so miserably wasted and spoiled, that there was hardly enough left for his bare subsistence; who, in the first years that he sat in the archiepiscopal chair, struggled with poverty, wants and continual vexations through the king's displeasure, (fn. 39) and whose three next years were spent in banishment, during all which time he borrowed money for his present maintenance; who being called home by king Henry I. at his coming to the crown, laboured to pay the debts he had contracted during the time of his banishment, and instead of enjoying that tranquility and ease he hoped for, was, within two years afterwards, again sent into banishment upon a fresh displeasure conceived against him by the king, who then seized upon all the revenues of the archbishopric, (fn. 40) which he retained in his own hands for no less than four years.
Under these hard circumstances, it would have been surprizing indeed, that the archbishop should have been able to carry on so great a work, and yet we are told it, as a truth, by the testimonies of history; but this must surely be understood with the interpretation of his having been the patron, protector and encourager, rather than the builder of this work, which he entrusted to the care and management of the priors Ernulph and Conrad, and sanctioned their employing, as Lanfranc had done before, the revenues and stock of the church to this use. (fn. 41)
In this state as above-mentioned, without any thing material happening to it, this church continued till about the year 1130, anno 30 Henry I. when it seems to have suffered some damage by a fire; (fn. 42) but how much, there is no record left to inform us; however it could not be of any great account, for it was sufficiently repaired, and that mostly at the cost of archbishop Corboil, who then sat in the chair of this see, (fn. 43) before the 4th of May that year, on which day, being Rogation Sunday, the bishops performed the dedication of it with great splendor and magnificence, such, says Gervas, col. 1664, as had not been heard of since the dedication of the temple of Solomon; the king, the queen, David, king of Scots, all the archbishops, and the nobility of both kingdoms being present at it, when this church's former name was restored again, being henceforward commonly called Christ-church. (fn. 44)
Among the manuscripts of Trinity college library, in Cambridge, in a very curious triple psalter of St. Jerome, in Latin, written by the monk Eadwyn, whose picture is at the beginning of it, is a plan or drawing made by him, being an attempt towards a representation of this church and monastery, as they stood between the years 1130 and 1174; which makes it probable, that he was one of the monks of it, and the more so, as the drawing has not any kind of relation to the plalter or sacred hymns contained in the manuscript.
His plan, if so it may be called, for it is neither such, nor an upright, nor a prospect, and yet something of all together; but notwithstanding this rudeness of the draftsman, it shews very plain that it was intended for this church and priory, and gives us a very clear knowledge, more than we have been able to learn from any description we have besides, of what both were at the above period of time. (fn. 45)
Forty-four years after this dedication, on the 5th of September, anno 1174, being the 20th year of king Henry II.'s reign, a fire happened, which consumed great part of this stately edifice, namely, the whole choir, from the angel steeple to the east end of the church, together with the prior's lodgings, the chapel of the Virgin Mary, the infirmary, and some other offices belonging to the monastery; but the angel steeple, the lower cross isles, and the nave appear to have received no material injury from the flames. (fn. 46) The narrative of this accident is told by Gervas, the monk of Canterbury, so often quoted before, who was an eye witness of this calamity, as follows:
Three small houses in the city near the old gate of the monastery took fire by accident, a strong south wind carried the flakes of fire to the top of the church, and lodged them between the joints of the lead, driving them to the timbers under it; this kindled a fire there, which was not discerned till the melted lead gave a free passage for the flames to appear above the church, and the wind gaining by this means a further power of increasing them, drove them inwardly, insomuch that the danger became immediately past all possibility of relief. The timber of the roof being all of it on fire, fell down into the choir, where the stalls of the manks, made of large pieces of carved wood, afforded plenty of fuel to the flames, and great part of the stone work, through the vehement heat of the fire, was so weakened, as to be brought to irreparable ruin, and besides the fabric itself, the many rich ornaments in the church were devoured by the flames.
The choir being thus laid in ashes, the monks removed from amidst the ruins, the bodies of the two saints, whom they called patrons of the church, the archbishops Dunstan and Alphage, and deposited them by the altar of the great cross, in the nave of the church; (fn. 47) and from this time they celebrated the daily religious offices in the oratory of the blessed Virgin Mary in the nave, and continued to do so for more than five years, when the choir being re edified, they returned to it again. (fn. 48)
Upon this destruction of the church, the prior and convent, without any delay, consulted on the most speedy and effectual method of rebuilding it, resolving to finish it in such a manner, as should surpass all the former choirs of it, as well in beauty as size and magnificence. To effect this, they sent for the most skilful architects that could be found either in France or England. These surveyed the walls and pillars, which remained standing, but they found great part of them so weakened by the fire, that they could no ways be built upon with any safety; and it was accordingly resolved, that such of them should be taken down; a whole year was spent in doing this, and in providing materials for the new building, for which they sent abroad for the best stone that could be procured; Gervas has given a large account, (fn. 49) how far this work advanced year by year; what methods and rules of architecture were observed, and other particulars relating to the rebuilding of this church; all which the curious reader may consult at his leisure; it will be sufficient to observe here, that the new building was larger in height and length, and more beautiful in every respect, than the choir of Conrad; for the roof was considerably advanced above what it was before, and was arched over with stone; whereas before it was composed of timber and boards. The capitals of the pillars were now beautified with different sculptures of carvework; whereas, they were before plain, and six pillars more were added than there were before. The former choir had but one triforium, or inner gallery, but now there were two made round it, and one in each side isle and three in the cross isles; before, there were no marble pillars, but such were now added to it in abundance. In forwarding this great work, the monks had spent eight years, when they could proceed no further for want of money; but a fresh supply coming in from the offerings at St. Thomas's tomb, so much more than was necessary for perfecting the repair they were engaged in, as encouraged them to set about a more grand design, which was to pull down the eastern extremity of the church, with the small chapel of the Holy Trinity adjoining to it, and to erect upon a stately undercroft, a most magnificent one instead of it, equally lofty with the roof of the church, and making a part of it, which the former one did not, except by a door into it; but this new chapel, which was dedicated likewise to the Holy Trinity, was not finished till some time after the rest of the church; at the east end of this chapel another handsome one, though small, was afterwards erected at the extremity of the whole building, since called Becket's crown, on purpose for an altar and the reception of some part of his relics; (fn. 50) further mention of which will be made hereafter.
The eastern parts of this church, as Mr. Gostling observes, have the appearance of much greater antiquity than what is generally allowed to them; and indeed if we examine the outside walls and the cross wings on each side of the choir, it will appear, that the whole of them was not rebuilt at the time the choir was, and that great part of them was suffered to remain, though altered, added to, and adapted as far as could be, to the new building erected at that time; the traces of several circular windows and other openings, which were then stopped up, removed, or altered, still appearing on the walls both of the isles and the cross wings, through the white-wash with which they are covered; and on the south side of the south isle, the vaulting of the roof as well as the triforium, which could not be contrived so as to be adjusted to the places of the upper windows, plainly shew it. To which may be added, that the base or foot of one of the westernmost large pillars of the choir on the north side, is strengthened with a strong iron band round it, by which it should seem to have been one of those pillars which had been weakened by the fire, but was judged of sufficient firmness, with this precaution, to remain for the use of the new fabric.
The outside of this part of the church is a corroborating proof of what has been mentioned above, as well in the method, as in the ornaments of the building.— The outside of it towards the south, from St. Michael's chapel eastward, is adorned with a range of small pillars, about six inches diameter, and about three feet high, some with santastic shasts and capitals, others with plain ones; these support little arches, which intersect each other; and this chain or girdle of pillars is continued round the small tower, the eastern cross isle and the chapel of St. Anselm, to the buildings added in honour of the Holy Trinity, and St. Thomas Becket, where they leave off. The casing of St. Michael's chapel has none of them, but the chapel of the Virgin Mary, answering to it on the north side of the church, not being fitted to the wall, shews some of them behind it; which seems as if they had been continued before, quite round the eastern parts of the church.
These pillars, which rise from about the level of the pavement, within the walls above them, are remarkably plain and bare of ornaments; but the tower above mentioned and its opposite, as soon as they rise clear of the building, are enriched with stories of this colonade, one above another, up to the platform from whence their spires rise; and the remains of the two larger towers eastward, called St. Anselm's, and that answering to it on the north side of the church, called St. Andrew's are decorated much after the same manner, as high as they remain at present.
At the time of the before-mentioned fire, which so fatally destroyed the upper part of this church, the undercrost, with the vaulting over it, seems to have remained entire, and unhurt by it.
The vaulting of the undercrost, on which the floor of the choir and eastern parts of the church is raised, is supported by pillars, whose capitals are as various and fantastical as those of the smaller ones described before, and so are their shafts, some being round, others canted, twisted, or carved, so that hardly any two of them are alike, except such as are quite plain.
These, I suppose, may be concluded to be of the same age, and if buildings in the same stile may be conjectured to be so from thence, the antiquity of this part of the church may be judged, though historians have left us in the dark in relation to it.
In Leland's Collectanea, there is an account and description of a vault under the chancel of the antient church of St. Peter, in Oxford, called Grymbald's crypt, being allowed by all, to have been built by him; (fn. 51) Grymbald was one of those great and accomplished men, whom king Alfred invited into England about the year 885, to assist him in restoring Christianity, learning and the liberal arts. (fn. 52) Those who compare the vaults or undercrost of the church of Canterbury, with the description and prints given of Grymbald's crypt, (fn. 53) will easily perceive, that two buildings could hardly have been erected more strongly resembling each other, except that this at Canterbury is larger, and more pro fusely decorated with variety of fancied ornaments, the shafts of several of the pillars here being twisted, or otherwise varied, and many of the captials exactly in the same grotesque taste as those in Grymbald's crypt. (fn. 54) Hence it may be supposed, that those whom archbishop Lanfranc employed as architects and designers of his building at Canterbury, took their model of it, at least of this part of it, from that crypt, and this undercrost now remaining is the same, as was originally built by him, as far eastward, as to that part which begins under the chapel of the Holy Trinity, where it appears to be of a later date, erected at the same time as the chapel. The part built by Lanfranc continues at this time as firm and entire, as it was at the very building of it, though upwards of seven hundred years old. (fn. 55)
But to return to the new building; though the church was not compleatly finished till the end of the year 1184, yet it was so far advanced towards it, that, in 1180, on April 19, being Easter eve, (fn. 56) the archbishop, prior and monks entered the new choir, with a solemn procession, singing Te Deum, for their happy return to it. Three days before which they had privately, by night, carried the bodies of St. Dunstan and St. Alphage to the places prepared for them near the high altar. The body likewise of queen Edive (which after the fire had been removed from the north cross isle, where it lay before, under a stately gilded shrine) to the altar of the great cross, was taken up, carried into the vestry, and thence to the altar of St. Martin, where it was placed under the coffin of archbishop Livinge. In the month of July following the altar of the Holy Trinity was demolished, and the bodies of those archbishops, which had been laid in that part of the church, were removed to other places. Odo's body was laid under St. Dunstan's and Wilfrid's under St. Alphage's; Lanfranc's was deposited nigh the altar of St. Martin, and Theobald's at that of the blessed Virgin, in the nave of the church, (fn. 57) under a marble tomb; and soon afterwards the two archbishops, on the right and left hand of archbishop Becket in the undercrost, were taken up and placed under the altar of St. Mary there. (fn. 58)
After a warning so terrible, as had lately been given, it seemed most necessary to provide against the danger of fire for the time to come; the flames, which had so lately destroyed a considerable part of the church and monastery, were caused by some small houses, which had taken fire at a small distance from the church.— There still remained some other houses near it, which belonged to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine; for these the monks of Christ-church created, by an exchange, which could not be effected till the king interposed, and by his royal authority, in a manner, compelled the abbot and convent to a composition for this purpose, which was dated in the year 1177, that was three years after the late fire of this church. (fn. 59)
These houses were immediately pulled down, and it proved a providential and an effectual means of preserving the church from the like calamity; for in the year 1180, on May 22, this new choir, being not then compleated, though it had been used the month be fore, as has been already mentioned, there happened a fire in the city, which burnt down many houses, and the flames bent their course towards the church, which was again in great danger; but the houses near it being taken away, the fire was stopped, and the church escaped being burnt again. (fn. 60)
Although there is no mention of a new dedication of the church at this time, yet the change made in the name of it has been thought by some to imply a formal solemnity of this kind, as it appears to have been from henceforth usually called the church of St. Thomas the Martyr, and to have continued so for above 350 years afterwards.
New names to churches, it is true. have been usually attended by formal consecrations of them; and had there been any such solemnity here, undoubtedly the same would not have passed by unnoticed by every historian, the circumstance of it must have been notorious, and the magnificence equal at least to the other dedications of this church, which have been constantly mentioned by them; but here was no need of any such ceremony, for although the general voice then burst forth to honour this church with the name of St. Thomas, the universal object of praise and adoration, then stiled the glorious martyr, yet it reached no further, for the name it had received at the former dedication, notwithstanding this common appellation of it, still remained in reality, and it still retained invariably in all records and writings, the name of Christ church only, as appears by many such remaining among the archives of the dean and chapter; and though on the seal of this church, which was changed about this time; the counter side of it had a representation of Becket's martyrdom, yet on the front of it was continued that of the church, and round it an inscription with the former name of Christ church; which seal remained in force till the dissolution of the priory.
It may not be improper to mention here some transactions, worthy of observation, relating to this favorite saint, which passed from the time of his being murdered, to that of his translation to the splendid shrine prepared for his relics.
Archbishop Thomas Becket was barbarously murdered in this church on Dec. 29, 1170, being the 16th year of king Henry II. and his body was privately buried towards the east end of the undercrost. The monks tell us, that about the Easter following, miracles began to be wrought by him, first at his tomb, then in the undercrost, and in every part of the whole fabric of the church; afterwards throughout England, and lastly, throughout the rest of the world. (fn. 61) The same of these miracles procured him the honour of a formal canonization from pope Alexander III. whose bull for that purpose is dated March 13, in the year 1172. (fn. 62) This declaration of the pope was soon known in all places, and the reports of his miracles were every where sounded abroad. (fn. 63)
Hereupon crowds of zealots, led on by a phrenzy of devotion, hastened to kneel at his tomb. In 1177, Philip, earl of Flanders, came hither for that purpose, when king Henry met and had a conference with him at Canterbury. (fn. 64) In June 1178, king Henry returning from Normandy, visited the sepulchre of this new saint; and in July following, William, archbishop of Rhemes, came from France, with a large retinue, to perform his vows to St. Thomas of Canterbury, where the king met him and received him honourably. In the year 1179, Lewis, king of France, came into England; before which neither he nor any of his predecessors had ever set foot in this kingdom. (fn. 65) He landed at Dover, where king Henry waited his arrival, and on August 23, the two kings came to Canterbury, with a great train of nobility of both nations, and were received with due honour and great joy, by the archbishop, with his com-provincial bishops, and the prior and the whole convent. (fn. 66)
King Lewis came in the manner and habit of a pilgrim, and was conducted to the tomb of St. Thomas by a solemn procession; he there offered his cup of gold and a royal precious stone, (fn. 67) and gave the convent a yearly rent for ever, of a hundred muids of wine, to be paid by himself and his successors; which grant was confirmed by his royal charter, under his seal, and delivered next day to the convent; (fn. 68) after he had staid here two, (fn. 69) or as others say, three days, (fn. 70) during which the oblations of gold and silver made were so great, that the relation of them almost exceeded credibility. (fn. 71) In 1181, king Henry, in his return from Normandy, again paid his devotions at this tomb. These visits were the early fruits of the adoration of the new sainted martyr, and these royal examples of kings and great persons were followed by multitudes, who crowded to present with full hands their oblations at his tomb.— Hence the convent was enabled to carry forward the building of the new choir, and they applied all this vast income to the fabric of the church, as the present case instantly required, for which they had the leave and consent of the archbishop, confirmed by the bulls of several succeeding popes. (fn. 72)
¶From the liberal oblations of these royal and noble personages at the tomb of St. Thomas, the expences of rebuilding the choir appear to have been in a great measure supplied, nor did their devotion and offerings to the new saint, after it was compleated, any ways abate, but, on the contrary, they daily increased; for in the year 1184, Philip, archbishop of Cologne, and Philip, earl of Flanders, came together to pay their vows at this tomb, and were met here by king Henry, who gave them an invitation to London. (fn. 73) In 1194, John, archbishop of Lions; in the year afterwards, John, archbishop of York; and in the year 1199, king John, performed their devotions at the foot of this tomb. (fn. 74) King Richard I. likewise, on his release from captivity in Germany, landing on the 30th of March at Sandwich, proceeded from thence, as an humble stranger on foot, towards Canterbury, to return his grateful thanks to God and St. Thomas for his release. (fn. 75) All these by name, with many nobles and multitudes of others, of all sorts and descriptions, visited the saint with humble adoration and rich oblations, whilst his body lay in the undercrost. In the mean time the chapel and altar at the upper part of the east end of the church, which had been formerly consecrated to the Holy Trinity, were demolished, and again prepared with great splendor, for the reception of this saint, who being now placed there, implanted his name not only on the chapel and altar, but on the whole church, which was from thenceforth known only by that of the church of St. Thomas the martyr.
On July 7, anno 1220, the remains of St. Thomas were translated from his tomb to his new shrine, with the greatest solemnity and rejoicings. Pandulph, the pope's legate, the archbishops of Canterbury and Rheims, and many bishops and abbots, carried the coffin on their shoulders, and placed it on the new shrine, and the king graced these solemnities with his royal presence. (fn. 76) The archbishop of Canterbury provided forage along all the road, between London and Canterbury, for the horses of all such as should come to them, and he caused several pipes and conduits to run with wine in different parts of the city. This, with the other expences arising during the time, was so great, that he left a debt on the see, which archbishop Boniface, his fourth successor in it, was hardly enabled to discharge.
¶The saint being now placed in his new repository, became the vain object of adoration to the deluded people, and afterwards numbers of licences were granted to strangers by the king, to visit this shrine. (fn. 77) The titles of glorious, of saint and martyr, were among those given to him; (fn. 78) such veneration had all people for his relics, that the religious of several cathedral churches and monasteries, used all their endeavours to obtain some of them, and thought themselves happy and rich in the possession of the smallest portion of them. (fn. 79) Besides this, there were erected and dedicated to his honour, many churches, chapels, altars and hospitals in different places, both in this kingdom and abroad. (fn. 80) Thus this saint, even whilst he lay in his obscure tomb in the undercroft, brought such large and constant supplies of money, as enabled the monks to finish this beautiful choir, and the eastern parts of the church; and when he was translated to the most exalted and honourable place in it, a still larger abundance of gain filled their coffers, which continued as a plentiful supply to them, from year to year, to the time of the reformation, and the final abolition of the priory itself.
La fondation de Sainte-Croix
La première église fut édifiée vers 330 dans l’angle nord-est de la ville fortifiée alors appelée Aurelianum. Elle doit son vocable à saint Euverte, son fondateur. En effet, c’est à cette époque que la Croix du Christ fut découverte à Jérusalem par sainte Hélène, mère de l’empereur romain Constantin Ier. Un morceau de cette « Vraie Croix » fut conservé comme relique dans la cathédrale. Saint Aignan, évêque successeur de saint Euverte, termine l’édifice et c’est l'architecte Mélius qui en surélève l’abside et le chœur vers 450.
La fin de l'église Sainte-Croix
Les Normands pillèrent l'église en 865, mais ne purent la brûler. Les rois carolingiens Carloman et Arnulph la reconstruisirent en 883.
En 989, un grand incendie détruisit une partie de la ville, y compris Sainte Croix.
Sainte-Croix, cathédrale romane
Au xie siècle, l'église cathédrale Saint-Étienne devient trop exiguë pour rester la principale église du diocèse d'Orléans. L'église Sainte-Croix est alors élevée au rang de cathédrale. Les bâtiments du chapitre sont regroupés au sud et à l'est de la cathédrale actuelle.
L’hérésie d'Orléans décrite par plusieurs textes et chroniques médiévales est une hérésie savante qui touche en 1022 une douzaine des plus érudits parmi les chanoines de la cathédrale Sainte-Croix, liés notamment à l'entourage de la reine Constance d'Arles. Ces derniers sont brûlés comme hérétiques sur ordre du roi capétien Robert le Pieux. Il s'agit du premier bûcher de la chrétienté médiévale.
L'évêque Arnoul II entreprend la reconstruction de l'église afin de doter Orléans d'une cathédrale digne de son rang. Cet édifice roman, achevé au xiie siècle, fut une vaste cathédrale avec un déambulatoire agrémenté d'alvéoles, et une belle façade appuyée par deux tours. Mais, construite sans doute trop rapidement, elle menaça ruine au bout de 200 ans et s'effondra en partie en 1227.
Le renouveau gothique
En 1278, l'évêque Robert de Courtenay, arrière-petit-fils du roi de France Louis le Gros, décida, au lieu de restaurer l'édifice en ruine, d'édifier une autre église dans le style nouveau qui fleurissait alors en France. Mais contraint de suivre le roi Saint Louis en Terre Sainte, il lègue le soin de poursuivre et d'achever les travaux à son ami l'évêque Gilles Pasté, son successeur. Celui-ci pose la première pierre du nouvel édifice gothique le 11 septembre 1288. Comme le veut l'usage, c'est par le chœur que les travaux commenceront, pour finir par la nef. Les anciennes tours romanes de la façade occidentale, ainsi que les travées de la nef non ruinées, seront conservées.
À son achèvement, la nouvelle cathédrale comportait un chœur gothique soutenu par de magnifiques arcs-boutants. Ce chœur fut complété par des chapelles absidiales à la fin du xiiie siècle et par des chapelles latérales au cours du xive siècle.
La cathédrale passe sans heurts la Guerre de Cent Ans, y compris le siège d'Orléans levé grâce à Jeanne d'Arc le 8 mai 1429.
En 1512, une grosse boule dorée surmontée d'une croix est hissée sur le clocher qui vient d'être élevé au-dessus de la croisée des transepts. Dans les années qui suivent, le raccord avec les transepts romans est terminé ; quatre travées neuves permettent à la nef d'atteindre le portail qui s'encastre entre ses deux vieilles tours.
The destruction by the Huguenots
In 1567 began the second war of religion and Orleans, more than half gained to their cause, passed into the hands of the Protestants who are bent on churches soon. Deploring these excesses, the Prince de Condé, head of the Protestants, made wall openings of the cathedral to prevent further looting. However, a small group of fanatics Huguenots disappointed Condé ready to deal with Catholics, enters the Cathedral on the night of March 23 to 24, 1568 and blew up the four pillars of the transept crossing. The pillars collapsed, causing the steeple, copper surmounting the sphere, the vaults of the chancel and nave. Only the apse remain intact radiating chapels around the choir, and the first two bays of the nave. Work interim clearing and development will be carried out quickly.
On July 2, 1598, King Henry IV returned to Britain after he signed the Edict of Nantes that will put an end to religious wars. In Orleans, it promises to launch, at the expense of the state, the reconstruction of the cathedral. It seals the foundation stone on April 18, 1601. A plate is then placed on one of the remaining pillars.
Reconstruction: the Cathedral of the Bourbons
The April 18, 1601, the King and Queen Marie de Medici laid the first stone of the new building. The choir was completed in 1623.
In 1627, we laid the foundations of the transept which will be completed in 1636.
The north transept was completed in 1643 and the south transept in 1690. The brand of the Sun King appears by introducing classicism share in the Gothic style building. His portrait and motto Nec pluribus impar also listed, with the completion date of 1679, in the center of the rosette located above the south transept portal. Currency can be translated: It would suffice to [govern] many [kingdoms].
The architect Étienne Martellange labored there in the seventeenth century, succeeded in the eighteenth century by Jacques V Gabriel, who created the stalls and choir screen and Louis-François Trouard.
In 1739 starts the construction of the western gate topped the two towers, extension of the nave. The old Romanesque façade, which has survived all the destruction was demolished. The façade until the base of the towers, was completed in 1773. The first two floors of the towers are built over the next ten years, while the need to strengthen the portal that threatens to collapse.
The Revolution suspended the proceedings, it lacks the Gothic building than its two towers.
It contains the work in 1817. The king Charles X inaugurated completion May 8, 1829, for the 400th anniversary of lifting the English siege by Joan of Arc and her army: a monumental flight of steps takes square outside the cathedral, along with the breakthrough of the new St. Joan of Arc and the creation of the great cathedral square.
The ravages of time and war
Since its completion in 1829, the cathedral has experienced the ravages of time and war.
The bell tower, which bowed ominously, was destroyed in 1854 and rebuilt and inaugurated in 1858.
The windows of the choir (work Lobin) are installed in 1859 at the Mgr Dupanloup initiative.
In 1940, during the German advance, part of the historic center of Orleans is ravaged by bombs and German shells. The cathedral is also affected, but the damage remains minor, like in 1944. Since the end of the Second World War, the restoration works succeed to restore the building to its former glory. However, the horrors of war are not all repaired for example, access to the two towers is closed to the public because not repaired since 1940; following the bombing of May 1944, the drone, bell worst (and therefore bigger) found himself finally cracked (in 1971). Become so unusable, it has been recast and reinstalled in 2012.
Archaeological research
The discovery of the seventeenth century
François Lemaire, judge ecclesiastical court of Orleans, recounts in History of the Church and diocese of Orleans in 1628 allegedly found during the digging of foundations for the north transept, the remains of a castle Roman who has, thereafter, never been confirmed.
Excavations 1890
The first discoveries date back to the insured work undertaken in 1889/1890 to install a stove in the cathedral. They helped to recognize the North Arm and the crossing, the alignment of the southern pillars of the nave of the Romanesque cathedral. Their publication is accompanied by a plan providing a hypothetical restitution, strongly inspired by Saint-Sernin in Toulouse plan (double nave aisle, very short choir and ambulatory with five chapels). Other reconstructions, equally distant from the historical reality was even suggested by Paul Frankl or Frédéric Lesueur.
Excavations 1937-1942
In 1937 opened under the direction of Georges Chenesseau, became honorary canon between time, the first real excavations conducted in order to recognize the Romanesque choir. Its results are spectacular: all the Romanesque choir, the fruit of two building campaigns, the ambulatory and the entrance to the shaft chapels are now known. The results are stored in an archaeological basement incorrectly called crypt, this space has no religious function.
Besides graves and substructures of Romanesque and Carolingian times, are revealed building remains attributed to the Gallo-romaine9 time. Georges Chenesseau identifies immediately with the basilica built by the holy bishop Euverte, causing violent controversy that quickly exceeded the local single frame.
In 1940 a survey in the north aisle of the nave shows the north wall of the nave, thus demonstrating that the Romanesque cathedral had only one aisle.
It remained to resolve the many chapels. Excavations in 1941 before the sacristy provide the answer: the cathedral of Orleans had three chapels.
Jeanne D'Arc
There is an indirect link between the present cathedral and Joan of Arc. The national historic heroine came following the Vespers Mass May 2, 1429 during the siege of Orleans (we must remember that the building as it is today did not exist in 1429, with the exception of the chapels apse, which surround the choir at the rear). It may be mentioned also that the rue Jeanne d'Arc opened the nineteenth century arrived before the main facade (at the time we wanted to release the foremost shrine small streets and medieval buildings that the hemmed, the name did not come after).
Each year, on the evening of May 7, during Johanniques holidays, takes place on the square, the ceremony of Delivery of Etendard (which evokes that of Joan of Arc). The municipality is the guardian and send it to Catholic religious authorities for the duration of the festivities. The facade of the cathedral is then used to support a sound and light. wp
I have been to St Mary of Charity before. But that was many years ago.
Back then, I took three shots inside. I took 300 today.
St Mary is a huge church with a Victorian tower with the most amazing spire, which makes it visible from just about all over the town.
Faversham is best know as being home to Shepherd Neame brewery, it claims to the England's oldest surviving brewer.
The town sits on the edge of the Swale, with a large expanse of marshes and creeks between the town and open water.
We parked on wide Abbey Street, and while Jools went shopping, I walked along side the old brewery buildings to the church, with the tower and spire straight ahead along a street of terraced houses.
The church was open, though I got shouted at for not closing the glass door properly. This was from the group of people partaking in the weekly coffee morning.
The looked at me as I went round the large church, snapping details and marvelling at the single painted pillar.
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An extraordinary building comprising a medieval chancel and transepts, eighteenth-century nave and nineteenth-century tower and spire. Despite heavy-handed restorations of the nineteenth century - by Sir George Gilbert Scott and Ewan Christian in 1873 - which have resulted in loss of character, there is much to see. The fourteenth-century transepts are aisled - a most unusual feature in an ordinary parish church. The medieval authorities probably decided to invest in a lavish building to counteract the pulling power of the famous abbey which stood to the east. One of the pillars of the north transept has a series of contemporary small paintings of biblical scenes. You are advised to take a pair of binoculars to see them to advantage. The stalls in the chancel have misericords with a good selection of carved armrests, and there is also a crypt and an unforgettable east window of 1911.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Faversham+1
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THE PARISH AND TOWN OF FAVERSHAM.
CALLED, according to Lambarde, in Saxon, Fafresham, and Fafresfeld, in the record of Domesday, Favershant, and in some few others, Fefresham.
THE PARISH lies adjoining to the high London road southward at the 47th mile-stone, and extends to the creek on the opposite side of the town, the houses on the south side of which reach to within two hundred yards of the road, whence there is a good view into it.
The parish includes the north side of the London road from the above mile-stone westward, almost as far as the summit of Judde-hill, and the liberties of the town extend as far of this space westward as the rivulet in Ospringe street. Thus this parish intervenes, and entirely separates that part of Ospringe parish, at the northern boundary of it, in which are the storekeeper's house of the royal mills, and part of the offices and gardens belonging to it, and some of the mills themselves, and in the town likewise, Ospringe parish again intervening, there is a small part of West-street which is within that parish. At the east end of Ospringe-street, though within Faversham parish, and the liberties of the town, close to the high London road, there is a handsome new-built house, erected not many years since by Mr.Bonnick Lypyeatt, who resided in it till his death in 1789. He left two daughters his coheirs, one of whom married Mr.C.Brooke, of London, and the other Captain Gosselin, of the Life-guards. It is now occupied by John Mayor, esq.
¶The rest, or northern part of the parish lies very low, and adjoins the marshes, of which there is a very large tract. The country here is a fine extended level, the fields of a considerable size, and mostly unincumbered with trees or hedgerows, the lands being perhaps as fertile and as highly cultivated as any within this county, being part of that fruitful value extending almost from Sittingborne to Boughton Blean, so often taken notice of before. The grounds adjoining the upper parts of the town are mostly hop plantations, of a rich and kindly growth, but several of them have lately given place to those of fruit. About twenty years ago the cultivation of madder was introduced here, and many induced by the prospect of great gains, made plantations of it at a very considerable expence, and a mill was erected for the purpose of grinding the roots, but from various disappointments, and unforeseen disadvantages, the undertakers of it were deterred from prosecuting the growth of it, and I believe they have for some time entirely discontinued it.
At the south-east extremity of this parish, as well as in other particular parts of this county, there are several chalk-pits, the most noted of these being called Hegdale pit, of a great depth, which though narrow at the top, yet more inward are very capacious, having, as it were, distinct rooms, supported by pillars of chalk. Several opinions have been formed concerning the intent and use of them, some that they were formed by the digging of chalk, for the building of the abbey, as well as afterwards from time to time, for the manuring of the neighbouring lands; others that the English Saxons might dig them, for the same uses that the Germans did, from whom they were descended, who made use of them, according to Tacitus, as a refuge in winter, as a repository for their corn, and as a place of security, for themselves, their families, and their property, from the searches of their enemies. (fn. 1)
Near the west end of the bridge, opposite the storekeeper's house of the royal powder-mills, there is a strong chalybeate spring, which on trial has been proved to be nearly equal to those of Tunbridge Wells. (fn. 2)
In the year 1774, a most remarkable fish, called mola salviani, orthe sun-fish, was caught on Faversham Flats, which weighed about nineteen pounds and a half, and was about two feet diameter. It is a fish very rarely seen in our narrow seas. (fn. 3)
THE TOWN ITSELF, and so much of the parish as is within the bounds of the corporation, is subject to the liberties of it, and of the cinque ports, and is exempt from the jurisdiction of the hundred of Faversham; but the rest of the parish, together with the rectory, is within the liberties of that hundred, which has been always esteemed as appurtenant to the manor of Faversham.
Although from the several discoveries which have been made of Roman antiquities in this neighbourhood, it is plain, that it could not be unknown to that nation, during their stay in this island, yet there is no mention made of this place by any writer during that period; and it seems, even in the time of the Saxons, to have been a place of but little consequence, notwithstanding it was then a part of the royal demesnes, as appears by a charter of Cenulph, king of Mercia, anno 812, wherein it is stiled the king's little town of Fefresham; and in one of Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons and of Kent, anno 839, where it is said to be made, only, in villa de Faverisham. However, it was of note sufficient, perhaps as being the king's estate, even in the time of king Alfred, at the first division of this county into those smaller districts, to give name to the hundred in which it is situated. Lambarde, Camden, and Leland say, that king Athelstan held a parliament, or meeting of his wife menat Faversham, about the year 903, (no doubt for 930) in which several laws were enacted. (fn. 8)
FAVERSHAM continued part of the antient demesnes of the crown of this realm at the time of the taking of the general survey of Domesday, in which it is entered, under the general title of Terra Regis, that is, the king's antient demesne, as follows:
In the lath of Wivarlet, in Favreshant hundred, king William holds Favreshant. It was taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is seventeen carucates. In demesne there are two. There are thirty villeins, with forty borderers, having twenty-four carucates. There are five servants, and one mill of twenty shillings, and two acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of one hundred hogs, and of the pasture of the wood thirty-one shillings and two pence. A market of four pounds, and two salt-pits of three shillings and two-pence, and in the city of Canterbury, there are three houses of twenty-pence belonging to this manor. In the whole value, in the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth sixty pounds all but five shillings, and afterwards sixty pounds, and now it is worth four times twenty pounds.
¶The manor of Faversham, with the hundred appurtenant to it, remained part of the possessions of the crown till about the beginning of king Stephen's reign, when it was granted to William de Ipre, a foreigner, whom, for his faithful services against the empress Maud, the king, in his 7th year, created Earl of Kent; but within a few years afterwards, resolving to found an abbey here, he, with his queen Matilda, about the year 1147, exchanged the manor of Lillechirch, and other premises, for this manor and hundred, where they, at the latter end of that year, or the beginning of the year after, founded an abbey at a small distance from the town of Faversham, on the north-east side of it, for the space where Court, or Ab bey-street now stands was then unbuilt, and this was therefore, in the reign of Edward III. distinguished by the name of the New Town, as the rest of it, built before, was by that of the Old Town, and they appointed Clarembald, the prior of Bermondsey, to be abbot of this new foundation, which was dedicated to St. Saviour, and for their support, the king granted to him and the monks of it, twelve of whom had been removed with Clarembald for this purpose from Bermondsey, which priory was of the order of Clugni, the manor of Faversham, with its appurtenances, and other premises, in perpetual alms, with many liberties, as may be further seen in the charter itself. (fn. 9)
HE TOWN OF FAVERSHAM is within the limits of the cinque ports, being esteemed as a limb or member of the town of Dover, one of those ports. Of what antiquity these ports and antient towns are, when enfranchised, or at what times their members were annexed to them, has not been as yet, with any certainty, discovered; and, therefore, they are held to enjoy all their earliest liberties and privileges, as time out of mind, and by prescription.
It is, however certain, that at the time of king Edward the Consessor, the five ports were enfranchised with divers liberties, privileges, and customs, peculiar to themselves; for the better conducting of which they had the establishment of one grand court, called the court of Shipway, from its being almost always held at a place of that name near Hyth; in which the general business relating to the whole community was transacted before the warden, as principal and chief over them. Nevertheless, though they acted here jointly, like a county palatine as to the government, for the desence of the liberty of the whole, yet every particular corporation in each town acted severally and distinctly, according to its own privileges, charters, and customs within their own particular limits, without any controul or interference from this court, or the rest of the community. (fn. 20)
The five ports, as being from their situation most exposed to the depredations of enemies, were first incorporated for their own mutual defence, and were afterwards endowed with great privileges, for the public desence of the nation, and the king's service. The force they were enjoined to raise and keep in residence for this purpose was fifty-seven ships, properly furnished and accoutred for a certain number of days, to be ready at the king's summons, at their own charge, and if the state of affairs required their assistance any longer, they were paid by the crown. But because the expence was in after times found to be too burthensome for these five ports, several other towns were added as members to them, that they might bear a part of the charge, for which they were recompenced with a participation of their privileges and immunities. All which were confirmed to them by Magna Charta, by the name of the barons of the five ports, and again by one general charter by king Edward I. which, by inspeximus, has received confirmation, and sometimes additions, from most of the succeeding kings and queens of this realm.
¶FAVERSHAM, stiled both a town and a port at different times in antient records, isa corporation by prescription. In the oldest charter now remaining, which is that of the 36th year of king Henry III. wherein the members of it are stiled, according to the usual language of those times, barons, that is freemen, there is contained a confirmation of all their former antient rights and privileges. In the 42d year of the above reign, which is as far as can be traced by evidence, the jurisdiction of this town was then in a mayor or alderman, and twelve jurats. In a charter of Edward I. the barons of it are acknowledged to have done good services to him and his predecessors, kings of England; and in the 21st year of that reign, there is an entry of the mayor and jurats assembling in their hallmote, or portmote-court, as it is elsewhere called, together with the lord abbot's steward, and there sealing a fine with the town's seal, of a messuage and garden in Faversham, according to the use and custom of the court, by which it is evident, that this court was of some antiquity at that time. (fn. 21)
Faversham is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Ospringe.
The church, which stands close to the east side of the town, was dedicated to the assumption of our lady of Faversham. It is built in the form of a cross, of flints, with quoins of ashler stone. It had, until 1755, when it was taken down, a large square castellated tower in the middle of it, and there remains now another low tower at the north side of the west front, upon which is erected a frame of timber, covered with shingles. So long ago as king Henry the VIIth.'s reign, there seems to have been no steeple to this church, for in 1464, Edward Thomasson, of this town, gave sixty pounds towards the edifying of a new one to it; (fn. 31) and of later time, James Lawson, esq. a wealthy inhabitant of this town, who died in 1794, gave by his will 1000l. for the same purpose, with this sum, together with 500l. given by the corporation, and the remainder payable by a rate, a steeple, seventy-three feet high above the tower, with pinnacles at each corner of it, on the plan of St. Dunstan's in the East, has been erected, and is now nearly compleated, at the expence of 2500l.
Behind the tower, within the outer walls, is a strong timbered room, formerly called the tresory, in which, before the reformation, were carefully deposited the goods and ornaments of the church; over it was the chamber for the sextons. On the south side of the west front is a room, formerly open to the church, in which was taught reading and writing; under it is a neat chapel, with stone arches, supported by three pillars in the middle. Over the south porch there is another stone room, the window of which is grated with strong iron bars.
Mr. Henry Hatch, whose extensive charity to this town has already been mentioned, by will in 1533, gave a sum of money, at the discretion of the mayor, and his brethren, in making a new jewel-house for this church.
In 1440 there were placed in it five new bells, and in 1459 a sixth was added; these remained till 1749, when they were cast into a new peal of eight.
The church seems to have been built in the latter end of the reign of Edward I. or the beginning of the reign of Edward II. by a silver penny of one of those kings being found under the basis of one of the piers, which supported the middle tower. In the east window of the great chancel, were some time since remaining two shields of arms, viz. Gules, two lions passant-guardant, or a label of five points, azure; and Argent, a lion rampant, sable, within a bordure of the second, bezante.
In the year 1754, the body of the church, as well as the roof of it, on a survey, being deemed in a dangerous state, a faculty was obtained to pull it down, which was accordingly done, under the plan and directions of Mr. George Dance, of London, architect, at the expence of 2300l. besides which, 400l. was afterwards expended in an organ, and 100l. more in other ornaments, and ninety pounds in improving the great chancel, which through age was become very unsightly; so that the whole of it is now made equal to, if not the most elegant and spacious, of any parish church in this county, and is extensive and spacious enough to afford convenient room for all the parishioners of it.
¶When this church was new built, and the body and isles new paved, the grave-stones, many of which were antient, with brasses on them, were removed from the places where they lay, to other open and consipicuous parts of it. Among the monuments were those for Henry Hatche, merchant adventurer, 1533; Thomas Mendfield, 1614, John Fagg, esq. 1508, and one for Thomas Southouse, esq. 1558, who wrote the Monas tion Favershamiense. Both monuments and epitaphs are by far too numerous to insert in this place, they may be found at large in Weever's Funeral Monuments, in Lewis's Appendix to his History of Faversham Abbey, and in Harris's History of Kent. Besides which there is in the Appendix to Jacob's History of Faversham, a chronological list of such persons as have been known to have been buried in it.
This church measures from east to west, including the chancel, one hundred and sixty feet, the width of the body sixty five feet; the length of the isles from north to south one hundred and twenty-four feet, and their width forty-six feet.
Before the reformation, besides the high altar in the great chancel, there were two chapels, one dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the other to St. Thomas, and there were several altars in the isles and chancels.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
I was in the area, checking up on the Heath Spotted Orchids, and the church was a five minute drive away, in the grounds of a former country house.
I park at the church and find it locked, as expected, but there were directions to a keyholder nearby, walking into the cobbled squares and converted estate buildings now executive housing.
I ring the bell: nothing
I ring again: nothing
I use the knocker: dog barks. Dog attacks the door.
There is angry voices. Or voice. There was the sound of the dog being put into a side room, and the struggle to close the door.
The front door opened: yes?
Can I have the church key, please?
Not sure if I still have it.
Why'd you want it?
To photograph the interior.
Who're with?
I'm with no one, I am photographing all parish churches in the county, and would like to do this one. I showed him my driving licence which should say under job title: obsessive and church crawler.
He seemed satisfied, and let me have the key.
Phew.
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Substantially rebuilt after a fire of 1598. The welcoming interior displays no chancel arch, although the doorways in the arcade show where the medieval rood screen ran the width of the church. The striking east window was designed by Wallace Wood in 1954. There is a good aumbry and piscina nearby. To the north of the chancel stands the excellent tomb chest of Sir John Tufton (d. 1624). The arcade into which it is built was lowered to allow a semi-circular alabaster ceiling to be inserted to set the composition off. Because it is completely free-standing it is one of the easiest tomb chests in Kent to study, with five sons kneeling on the south side and four daughters on the north . In addition there are complicated coats of arms and an inscription which records the rebuilding of the church by Tufton after the fire. On top of the chest lie Sir John and his wife, with their son Nicholas kneeling between their heads. Much of the monument is still covered with its original paint. The organ, which stands in the south aisle, may be the instrument on which Sir Arthur Sullivan composed 'The Lost Chord'. It originally stood in Hothfield Place where Sullivan was a frequent guest.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Hothfield
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HOTHFIELD
IS the next parish northward from Great Chart, and is so called from the bothe, or heath within it. The greatest part of this parish lies within the hundred of Chart and Longbridge, and the remainder in that of Calehill. It is in the division of East Kent.
THE PARISH of Hothfield lies a little more than two miles from Ashford north-westward, the high road from which towards Lenham and Maidstone goes through it over Hothfield heath. It contains about 1250 acres, and fifty houses, the rents of it are about 1300l. per annum. It is not a pleasant, nor is it accounted a healthy situation, owing probably to the many low and watry lands in and about it. The river Stour, which rises at Lenham, runs along the southern side of the parish, which is watered likewise by several small streams, which rise about Charing and Westwell, from under the chalk hills, and join the Stour here. The heath, which contains near one half of the parish, consists mostly of a deep sand, and has much peat on it, which is continually dug by the poor for firing. On the east and west sides of the heath, the latter being called West-street, are two hamlets of houses, which form the scattered village of Hothfield. The Place-house stands on a hill, at a small distance from the corner of the heath southward, with some small plantations of trees about it, forming a principal object to the country round it. It is a square mansion, built of Portland stone, by the late earl of Thanet, on the scite of the antient mansion, close to the church; it has a good prospect round it. The adjoining grass grounds are extensive, and well laid out for the view over them; the water, which rises at no great distance from the house, becomes very soon a tolerable sized stream, and running on in sight of it, joins the Stour a little above Worting mill; these grass lands are fertile and good fatting land, like those mentioned before, near Godington, in Great Chart. The parsonage house, which is a neat dwelling of white stucco, stands at the southern corner of the heath, at the foot of the hill, adjoining the Place grounds, near West-street. Between the heath and Potter's corner, towards Ashford, the soil begins to approach much of the quarry stone.
Though the land in the parish is naturally poor, it is rendered productive by the chalk and lime procured from the down hills. The inhabitants have an unlimited right of commoning with those of the adjoining parish of Westwell, to upwards of five hundred acres of common, which affords them the means of keeping a cow and their poultry, which, with the liberty of digging peat, draws a number of certificated poor to reside here. There is not one dissenter in the parish.
Jack Cade, the noted rebel, in Henry the VI.th's reign, though generally supposed to be taken by Alexander Iden, esq. the sheriff, in a field belonging to Ripple manor, in the adjoining parish of Westwell, was discovered, as some say, in a field in this parish, still named from him, Jack Cade's field, now laid open with the rest of the grounds adjoining to Hothfieldplace.
The plant caryophyllata montena, or water avens, which is a very uncommon one, grows in a wood near Barber's hill, in this parish.
THE MANOR OF HOTHFIELD seems, in very early times, to have had the same owners as the barony of Chilham, and to have continued so, for a considerable length of time after the descendants of Fulbert de Dover were become extinct here. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, who in the 5th year of king Edward II. had a grant of this manor as well as of Chilham in see, appears to have held this manor of Hothfield by grand sergeantry of the archbishop, and accordingly, in the 8th year of it, at the enthroning of archbishop Walter Reynolds, he made his claim, and was allowed to perform the office of chamberlain for that day, and to serve up the water, for the archbishop to wash his hands; for which his fees were, the furniture of his bedchamber, and the bason and towel made use of for that purpose; (fn. 1) and in the next year he obtained of the king, a charter of free-warren for his demesne lands within this manor among others. After this the manor of Hothfield continued to be held by the like service, and continued in the same owners as that of Chilham, (fn. 2) down to Thomas lord Roos, who became entitled to the see of it, who for his attachment to the house of Lancaster, was, with others, attainted, in the 1st year of king Edward IV.'s reign, and his lands confiscated to the crown. But Margaret his mother, being possessed of it for her life, afterwards married Roger Wentworth, esq. whom she survived, and died possessed of it in the 18th year of that reign; upon which, by reason of the above attaint, the crown became entitled to it, the inquisition for which was found in the 4th year of that reign; immediately after which, the king granted it to Sir John Fogge, of Repton, who was comptroller of his household and one of his privy council, for his life. On king Richard III.'s accession to the crown, he took shelter in the abbey of Westminster, from whence he was invited by the king, who in the presence of a numerous assembly gave him his hand, and bid him be confident that from thenceforward he was sure to him in affection. This is rather mentioned, as divers chronicles have erroneously mentioned that he was an attorney, whom this prince had pardoned for forgery. He died possessed of it in the 17th year of Henry VII. where it remained till Henry VIII. granted it, at the very latter end of his reign, to John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, in Sussex, whose lands were disgavelled by the acts of 2 and 3 Edward VI. who afterwards resided at Hothfield, where he kept his shrievalty in the 3d year of queen Elizabeth. He was descended from ancestors who were originally written Toketon, and held lands in Rainham, in this county, as early as king John's reign; (fn. 3) one of whom was seated at Northiam, in Sussex, in king Richard the IId.'s reign, at which time they were written as at present, Tufton, and they continued there till John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, before-mentioned, removed hither. He died in 1567, and was buried in this church, leaving one son John Tufton, who resided at Hothfield-place, and in July, in the 16th year of queen Elizabeth, anno 1573, entertained the queen here, in her progress through this county. In the 17th year of that reign he was sheriff, and being a person of eminent repure and abilities, he was knighted by king James, in his 1st year, and created a baronet at the first institution of that order, on June 19, 1611. He married Olimpia, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. of Sileham, in Rainham, by whom he had three daughters; and secondly Christian, daughter and coheir of Sir Humphry Brown, a justice of the common pleas. He died in 1624, and was buried in this church, having had by her several sons and daughters. Of the former, Nicholas the eldest, succeeded him in title and estates. Sir Humphry was of Bobbing and the Mote, in Maidstone, and Sir William was of Vinters, in Boxley, both baronets, of whom further mention has already been made in the former parts of this history.
Sir Nicholas Tufton, the eldest son, was by letters patent, dated Nov. 1, anno 2 Charles I. created lord Tufton, baron of Tufton, in Sussex; and on August 5, in the 4th year of that reign, earl of the Isle of Thanet, in this county. He had four sons and nine daughters; of the former, John succeeded him in honors, and Cecil, was father of Sir Charles Tufton, of Twickenham, in Middlesex. John, the eldest son, second earl of Thanet, married in 1629 Margaret, eldest daughter and coheir of Richard, earl of Dorset, by his wife the lady Anne Clifford, sole daughter and heir of George, earl of Cumberland, and baroness of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy, by which marriage these tithes descended afterwards to their issue. In the time of the commonwealth, after king Charles the 1st.'s death, he was, in 1654, appointed sheriff, and however inconsistent it might be to his rank, yet he served the office. He left six sons and six daughters, and was succeeded by Nicholas his eldest son, third earl of Thanet, who by the deaths of his mother in 1676, and of his cousin-german Alethea, then wife of Edward Hungerford, esq. who died s. p. in 1678, he became heir to her, and sole heir to his grandmother Anne, lady Clifford, and consequently to the baronies of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy; dying s. p. he was succeeded as earl of Thanet and lord Clifford, &c. by his next brother John, who, on his mother's death, succeeded likewise by her will to her large estates in Yorkshire and Westmoreland, and to the hereditary in sheriffdoms of the latter and of Cumberland likewise, for it frequently happened in these hereditary sheriffdoms that female heirs became possessed of them, and consequently were sheriffs of those districts; but this was not at all an unusual thing, there being many frequent instances of women bearing that office, as may be seen in most of the books in which any mention is made of it, some instances of which the reader may see in the differtation on the office of sheriff, in vol. i. of this history. That part of their office which was incompatible for a woman to exercise, was always executed by a deputy, or shyre-clerk, in their name. But among the Harleian MSS. is a very remarkable note taken from Mr. Attorney-general Noys reading in Lincoln's inn, in 1632, in which, upon a point, whether the office of a justice of a forest might be executed by a woman; it was said, that Margaret, countess of Richmond, mother to king Henry VII. was a justice of peace; that the lady Bartlet, perhaps meant for Berkley, was also made a justice of the peace by queen Mary, in Gloucestershire; and that in Suffolk one ..... Rowse, a woman, did usually fit upon the bench at assizes and sessions among other justices, gladio cincta. John, earl of Thanet, died unmarried, as did his next brother earl Richard, so that the titles devolved to Thomas Tufton, who became the sixth earl of Thanet, and lord Clifford, which latter title was decreed to him by the house of peers in 1691. He left surviving issue five daughters and coheirs, the eldest of whom, Catherine, married Ed. Watson, viscount Sondes, son and heir of Lewis, earl of Rockingham; and the four others married likewise into noble families. He died at Hothfield in 1729, having by his will bequeathed several legacies to charitable purposes, especially towards the augmentation of small vicarages and curacies. He died without male issue, so that the titles of earl of Thanet and baron Tufton, and of baronet, descended to his nephew Sackville Tufton, eldest surviving son of his brother Sackville Tufton, fifth son of John, second earl of Thanet. But the title of baroness Clifford, which included those of Westmoreland and Vescy, upon the death of Thomas, earl of Thanet, without male issue, became in abeyance between his daughters and coheirs above-mentioned, and in 1734, king George II. confirmed that barony to Margaret, his third surviving daughter and coheir, married to Thomas Coke, lord Lovel, afterwards created earl of Leicester, which title is now again in abeyance by his death s. p. Which Sackville Tufton died in 1721, leaving Sackville the seventh earl of Thanet, whose eldest son of the same name succeeded him as eighth earl of Thanet, and rebuilt the present mansion of Hothfield-place, in which he afterwards resided, but being obliged to travel to Italy for his health, he died there at Nice in 1786, and was brought to England, and buried in the family vault at Rainham, in this county, where his several ancestors, earls of Thanet, with their countesses, and other branches of the family, lie deposited, from the time of their first accession to that title. He married Mary, daughter of lord John Philip Sackville, sister of the present duke of Dorset, by whom he had five sons and two daughters, Elizabeth; and Caroline married to Joseph Foster Barham, esq. Of the former, Sackville, born in 1769, succeeded him in honors; Charles died unmarried; John is M. P. for Appleby; Henry is M. P. for Rochester, and William. He was succeeded by his eldest son, the present right hon. Sackville Tufton, earl of Thanet, baron Tufton, lord of the honor of Skipton, in Craven, and baronet, and hereditary sheriff of the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, who is the present possessor of this manor and seat, and resides here, and is at present unmarried. (fn. 4)
The antient arms of Tufton were, Argent, on a pale, sable, an eagle displayed of the field; which coat they continued to bear till Nicholas Tufton, the first earl of Thanet, on his obtaining that earldom, altered it to that of Sable, an eagle displayed, ermine, within a bordure, argent; which coat was confirmed by Sir William Segar, garter, in 1628, and has been borne by his descendants to the present time. The present earl of Thanet bears for his coat of arms that last-mentioned; for his crest, On a wreath, a sea lion, seiant, proper; and for his supporters, Two eagles, their wings expanded, ermine.
SWINFORT, or Swinford, which is its more proper name, is a manor in this parish, lying in the southern part of it, near the river Stour, and probably took its name from some ford in former times over it here. However that be, it had formerly proprietors, who took their name from it; but they were never of any eminence, nor can I discover when they became extinct here; only that in king Henry V.'s reign it was in the possession of Bridges, descended from John atte Bregg, one of those eminent persons, whose effigies, kneeling and habited in armour, was painted in the window often mentioned before, in Great Chart church; and in this family the manor of Swinford continued till the latter end of king James I.'s reign, when it passed by sale from one of them to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, whose son John, earl of Thanet, before the 20th year of that reign, exchanged it for other lands, which lay more convenient to him, with his near neighbour Nicholas Toke, esq. of Godinton, in which family and name it has continued down, in like manner as that feat, to Nicholas Roundell Toke, esq. now of Godinton, the present possessor of it. A court baron is held for this manor.
FAUSLEY, or FOUSLEY, as it is now usually called, is the last manor to be described in this parish; its more antient name was Foughleslee, or, as it was usually pronounced, Faulesley; which name it gave to owners who in early times possessed and resided at it. John de Foughleslee, of Hothfield, was owner of it in the second year of king Richard II. and in his descendants this manor seems to have continued till about the beginning of queen Elizabeth's reign, when it passed by sale to Drury; from which name, at the latter end of it, this manor was conveyed to Paris, who immediately afterwards alienated it to Bull, who soon afterwards reconveyed it back again to the same family, whence, in the next reign of king James I. it was sold to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, in whose successors, earls of Thanet, it has continued down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, the present owner of it.
Charities.
RICHARD PARIS, by deed in 1577, gave for the use of the poor, a rent charge of 16s. per annum, out of land called Hanvilles, in this parish; the trustees of which have been long ago deceased, and no new ones appointed since.
THOMAS KIPPS, gent. of Canterbury, by will in 1680, gave for the use of the same, an annual rent charge of 1l. out of lards in Great Chart.
RICHARD MADOCKE, clothier, of this parish, by will in 1596, ordered that the 11l. which he had lent to the parishioners of Hothfield, towards the rebuilding of their church, should, when repaid, be as a stock to the poor of this parish for ever.
SIR JOHN TUFTON, knight and baronet, and Nicholas his son, first earl of Thanet, by their wills in 1620 and in 1630, gave certain sums of money, with which were purchased eight acres of land in the parish of Kingsnoth, of the annual produce of 10l.
DR. JOHN GRANDORGE, by deed in 1713, gave a house and land in Newington, near Hythe, of the annual produce of 7l. which premises are vested in the earl of Thanet.
THOMAS, EARL OF THANET, and SACKVILLE TUFTON. Esq. grandfather of the present earl, by their deeds in 1720 and 1726, gave for a school mistress to teach 24 poor children, a rent charge and a house and two gardens, in Hothfield, the produce in money 20l. The premises were vested in Sir Penyston Lambe and Dr. John Grandorge, long since deceased; since which the trust has not been renewed; and the original writings are in the earl of Thanet's possession.
Such of the above benefactions as have been contributed by the Tufton family, have been ordered by their descendants to be distributed annually by the steward of Hothfield-place for the time being, without the interference of the parish officers, to such as received no relief from this parish; the family looking upon these rather as a private munisicence intended to continue under their direction.
The poor annually relieved are about twenty-five, casually as many.
HOTHFIELD is situated within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
¶The church, which is small, is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of three isles and a chancel, having a low spire steeple, covered with shingles at the west end, in which are five bells, and though it stands on a hill, is yet very damp. There is not any painted glass in the windows of it. On the north side in it, is a monument of curious workmanship, having the figures of a man and woman, in full proportion, lying at length on it; at three corners of it are those of two sons and one daughter, kneeling, weeping, all in white marble; round the edges is an inscription, for Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, and Olympia his wife, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. On the monument are the arms of Tufton, with quarterings and impalements; on the sides are two inscriptions, one, that he re-edified this church after it was burnt, at his own charge, and under it made a vault for himself and his posterity, and after that he had lived eighty years, departed this life; the other enumerating his good qualities, and saying that by his will he gave perpetual legacies to this parish and that of Rainham. This monument is parted off from the north isle by a strong partition of wooden balustrades, seven feet high. The vault underneath is at most times several feet deep with water, and the few coffins which were remaining in it were some years since removed to the vaults at Rainham, where this family have been deposited ever since. On the north side of the chancel is a smaller one, formerly called St. Margaret's chapel, now shut up, and made no use of. In the south isle is a memorial for Rebecca, wife of William Henman, esq. obt. 1739, and Anna-Rebecca, their daughter, obt. 1752; arms, A lion, between three mascles, impaling a bend, cotized, engrailed. This church, which is a rectory, was always esteemed an appendage to the manor, and has passed accordingly, in like manner with it, down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, lord of the manor of Hothfield, the present patron of it.
This rectory is valued in the king's books at 17l. 5s. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 14s. 6d.
There was a pension of ten shillings paid from it to the college of Wye. In 1588 here were communicants one hundred and ninety-three, and it was valued at eighty pounds. In 1640, communicants one hundred and ninety, and valued at only sixty pounds per annum. There is a modus of two pence an acre of the pasture lands in the parish. There are twelve acres of glebe. It is now worth about one hundred and twenty pounds per annum.
Richard Hall, of this parish, by will in 1524, ordered that his feoffees should enfeoffe certain honest persons in his house and garden here, set beside the pelery, to the intent that the yearly serme of them should go to the maintenance of the rode-light within the church.
This church was burnt down in the reign of king James I. and was rebuilt at the sole expence of Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, who died in 1624. His descendant Thomas, earl of Thanet, who died in 1729, gave the present altar-piece, some of the pewing, and the pulpit.
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Chella (anticamente Sala Colonia in latino, oggi in arabo شالة) è un sito archeologico a nord di Rabat, in Marocco. Il sito è la prova della più antica presenza umana nel delta del fiume Bou Regreg, lungo le cui rive Fenici e Cartaginesi stanziarono diverse basi. A circa 3 km dal centro, il complesso si trova al di fuori delle mura della città e occupa il sito della romana Sala, su una bassa collina coperta di vegetazione, rifugio delle cicogne nella stagione riproduttiva. Gli scavi hanno rivelato la presenza di un importante agglomerato e infatti Chella conserva le vestigia di una città romana, con i resti del Decumano Massimo, di un foro presso il quale si riconoscono le tracce della Curia, di una fontana monumentale e di un arco di trionfo. Il sito rimase poi in stato di abbandono per diversi secoli, fino a che i Merinidi lo scelsero per edificarvi la loro necropoli. Circondata da una cinta di mura fortificate, ad essa si accede attraverso una porta monumentale, riccamente decorata e aperta ad arco acuto, ai cui lati sono poste due massicce torri merlate semi-ottagonali. Nella parte superiore del portale è presente un’iscrizione in caratteri cufici, dalla quale si apprende che la costruzione dello stesso fu intrapresa dal sultano Abu Said (1310-31) e terminata nel 1339 sotto il regno di Abu el-Hassan, il più grande sultano della sua dinastia. All’interno della necropoli si trovano alcune tombe di marabout e, presso una sorgente trasformata in fontana per abluzioni, la necropoli reale con la tomba di Abu el-Hassan, la cui stele, finemente decorata, è sovrastata da una tettoia a muqarnas. Nelle vicinanze sono presenti la moschea di Abu Yussef Yacub con un minareto decorato con maioliche policrome ora in rovina e una zaouia con un oratorio. Nella terrazza ai piedi del complesso si estende un incantevole giardino alimentato dalle acque della vicina sorgente Ayn Mdafa, che serpeggia nell’incavo della valletta.
Le Chellah, ou Chella (en arabe : شالة), est le site d'une nécropole mérinide située sur l'emplacement d'une cité romaine, à Rabat, au Maroc. Depuis 2005, ce site accueille chaque année le festival Jazz au Chellah. Le site du Chellah fut sans doute la plus ancienne agglomération humaine à l'embouchure du Bou Regreg. Les Phéniciens et les Carthaginois, qui ont fondé plusieurs comptoirs au Maroc, ont probablement habité les bords du Bouregreg. Le Chellah conserve, en revanche, les vestiges d'une ville romaine. Les fouilles ont révélé la présence d'une agglomération d'une certaine importance ; celle de la ville citée sous les noms de Sala, par Ptolémée, et de Sala Colonia, dans l'itinéraire d'Antonin. Les restes du Decumanus Maximus, ou voie principale, ont été dégagés ainsi que ceux d'un forum, d'une fontaine monumentale, d'un arc de triomphe, d'une basilique chrétienne, etc. La voie principale de Sala a été suivie par des sondages exécutés en direction du port antique sur le Bouregreg, port aujourd'hui ensablé. Ainsi, la ville romaine dépassait l'enceinte mérinide en direction du fleuve. Les Banou Ifren s'emparèrent de la ville2 au XIe siècle, et elle fut une de leurs métropoles jusqu'à ce que qu'elle passe sous le pouvoir des Almoravides. Le Chellah était abandonné depuis plusieurs siècles quand les Mérinides choisirent son site pour y édifier leur nécropole. Comme l'indique l'inscription en écriture coufique, qui surmonte la porte d'entrée, les travaux ont été achevés en 1339, sous le règne d'Abû al-Hasan `Alî. L'occupation du site a été progressive, et les aménagements successifs ont abouti à la réalisation d'une somptueuse nécropole. Protégée par une enceinte importante à laquelle on accède par une porte monumentale, la nécropole mérinide contient notamment une salle d'ablutions, une zaouïa avec un oratoire, un minaret paré de zellige et plusieurs salles funéraires, telle celle d'Aboul Hassan dont la stèle, finement décorée, repose sous un auvent à mouqanas. Plus tard, Abû `Inân Fâris, son fils, affecta, pour l'entretenir, les revenus d'un bain mérinide de Rabat, le hammâm Ej-Jdîd. La porte de la nécropole est une porte majestueuse et guerrière. Puissante, elle est flanquée de deux bastions semi-octogonaux avec des encorbellements surmontés de merlons pointus. Cette porte de forteresse ouvre sur une petite oasis, un havre de paix d'une dizaine d'hectares où la tranquillité des lieux est interrompue de temps à autre par le claquement de bec des cigognes. Paysage clos et enchanteur, jardin à l'atmosphère magique où le sanctuaire du fondateur est au creux d'un vallon dans lequel serpente la source d'Aïn Mdafa.
Chellah, (Arabic: شالة) or Sala Colonia is a necropolis and complex of ancient Roman Mauretania Tingitana and medieval ruins at the outskirts of Rabat, Morocco. First spot of Salé, this latter was completed towards the north of the river. It is the most ancient human settlement on the mouth of the Bou Regreg River. The Phoenicians and the Carthaginians, who founded several colonies in Morocco, probably inhabited the banks of the Bou Regreg. Chellah is the site of the ruins of the Roman town known as Sala Colonia, referred to as Sala by Ptolemy. Excavations show an important port city with ruined Roman architectural elements including a decumanus maximus or principal Roman way, a forum and a triumphal arch. One of the two main Roman roads in Morocco reached the Atlantic through Iulia Constantia Zilil (Asilah), Lixus (Larache) and Sala Colonia. Another may have been built toward south, from Sala Colonia to modern Casablanca, then called Anfa. The Romans had two main naval ouposts on the Atlantic: Sala near modern Rabat and Mogador in north of Agadir. Roman expeditions sailed from there to find the Canary islands. The site was abandoned in 1154 in favour of nearby Salé. The Almohad dynasty used the ghost town as a necropolis. In the mid-14th century, a Merinid sultan, Abu l-Hasan, built monuments and the main gate, dated to 1339. These later Merinid additions included a mosque, a zawiya, and royal tombs, including that of Abu l-Hasan. Many structures in Chellah/Sala Colonia were damaged by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. The site has been converted to a garden and tourist venue.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
A couple of weeks back, we met a couple in a pub in Canterbury, and they had been out exploring the city and said they were disappointed by the cathedral.
Not enough labels they said.
That not withstanding, I thought it had been some time since I last had been, so decided to revisit, see the pillars of Reculver church in the crypt and take the big lens for some detail shots.
We arrived just after ten, so the cathedral was pretty free of other guests, just a few guides waiting for groups and couples to guide.
I went round with the 50mm first, before concentrating on the medieval glass which is mostly on the south side.
But as you will see, the lens picked up so much more.
Thing is, there is always someone interesting to talk to, or wants to talk to you. As I went around, I spoke with about three guides about the project and things I have seen in the churches of the county, and the wonderful people I have met. And that continued in the cathedral.
I have time to look at the tombs in the Trinity Chapel, and see that Henry IV and his wife are in a tomb there, rather than ay Westminster Abbey. So I photograph them, and the Black Prince on the southern side of the chapel, along with the Bishops and Archbishops between.
Round to the transept and a chance to change lenses, and put on the 140-400mm for some detailed shots.
I go round the cathedral again.
Initially at some of the memorials on the walls and the canopy of the pulpit, but it is the windows that are calling.
At least it was a bright, sunny day outside, which meant light was good in the cathedral with most shots coming out fine with no camera shake.
As I edit the shots I am stunned at the details of windows so high up they mostly seem like blocks of colour.
And so far, I have only just started to edit these shots.
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St Augustine, the first Archbishop of Canterbury, arrived on the coast of Kent as a missionary to England in 597AD. He came from Rome, sent by Pope Gregory the Great. It is said that Gregory had been struck by the beauty of Angle slaves he saw for sale in the city market and despatched Augustine and some monks to convert them to Christianity. Augustine was given a church at Canterbury (St Martin’s, after St Martin of Tours, still standing today) by the local King, Ethelbert whose Queen, Bertha, a French Princess, was already a Christian.This building had been a place of worship during the Roman occupation of Britain and is the oldest church in England still in use. Augustine had been consecrated a bishop in France and was later made an archbishop by the Pope. He established his seat within the Roman city walls (the word cathedral is derived from the the Latin word for a chair ‘cathedra’, which is itself taken from the Greek ‘kathedra’ meaning seat.) and built the first cathedral there, becoming the first Archbishop of Canterbury. Since that time, there has been a community around the Cathedral offering daily prayer to God; this community is arguably the oldest organisation in the English speaking world. The present Archbishop, The Most Revd Justin Welby, is 105th in the line of succession from Augustine. Until the 10th century, the Cathedral community lived as the household of the Archbishop. During the 10th century, it became a formal community of Benedictine monks, which continued until the monastery was dissolved by King Henry VIII in 1540. Augustine’s original building lies beneath the floor of the Nave – it was extensively rebuilt and enlarged by the Saxons, and the Cathedral was rebuilt completely by the Normans in 1070 following a major fire. There have been many additions to the building over the last nine hundred years, but parts of the Quire and some of the windows and their stained glass date from the 12th century. By 1077, Archbishop Lanfranc had rebuilt it as a Norman church, described as “nearly perfect”. A staircase and parts of the North Wall – in the area of the North West transept also called the Martyrdom – remain from that building.
Canterbury’s role as one of the world’s most important pilgrimage centres in Europe is inextricably linked to the murder of its most famous Archbishop, Thomas Becket, in 1170. When, after a long lasting dispute, King Henry II is said to have exclaimed “Who will rid me of this turbulent priest?”, four knights set off for Canterbury and murdered Thomas in his own cathedral. A sword stroke was so violent that it sliced the crown off his skull and shattered the blade’s tip on the pavement. The murder took place in what is now known as The Martyrdom. When shortly afterwards, miracles were said to take place, Canterbury became one of Europe’s most important pilgrimage centres.
The work of the Cathedral as a monastery came to an end in 1540, when the monastery was closed on the orders of King Henry VIII. Its role as a place of prayer continued – as it does to this day. Once the monastery had been suppressed, responsibility for the services and upkeep was given to a group of clergy known as the Chapter of Canterbury. Today, the Cathedral is still governed by the Dean and four Canons, together (in recent years) with four lay people and the Archdeacon of Ashford. During the Civil War of the 1640s, the Cathedral suffered damage at the hands of the Puritans; much of the medieval stained glass was smashed and horses were stabled in the Nave. After the Restoration in 1660, several years were spent in repairing the building. In the early 19th Century, the North West tower was found to be dangerous, and, although it dated from Lanfranc’s time, it was demolished in the early 1830s and replaced by a copy of the South West tower, thus giving a symmetrical appearance to the west end of the Cathedral. During the Second World War, the Precincts were heavily damaged by enemy action and the Cathedral’s Library was destroyed. Thankfully, the Cathedral itself was not seriously harmed, due to the bravery of the team of fire watchers, who patrolled the roofs and dealt with the incendiary bombs dropped by enemy bombers. Today, the Cathedral stands as a place where prayer to God has been offered daily for over 1,400 years; nearly 2,000 Services are held each year, as well as countless private prayers from individuals. The Cathedral offers a warm welcome to all visitors – its aim is to show people Jesus, which we do through the splendour of the building as well as the beauty of the worship.
www.canterbury-cathedral.org/heritage/history/cathedral-h...
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History of the cathedral
THE ORIGIN of a Christian church on the scite of the present cathedral, is supposed to have taken place as early as the Roman empire in Britain, for the use of the antient faithful and believing soldiers of their garrison here; and that Augustine found such a one standing here, adjoining to king Ethelbert's palace, which was included in the king's gift to him.
This supposition is founded on the records of the priory of Christ-church, (fn. 1) concurring with the common opinion of almost all our historians, who tell us of a church in Canterbury, which Augustine found standing in the east part of the city, which he had of king Ethelbert's gift, which after his consecration at Arles, in France, he commended by special dedication to the patronage of our blessed Saviour. (fn. 2)
According to others, the foundations only of an old church formerly built by the believing Romans, were left here, on which Augustine erected that, which he afterwards dedicated to out Saviour; (fn. 3) and indeed it is not probable that king Ethelbert should have suffered the unsightly ruins of a Christian church, which, being a Pagan, must have been very obnoxious to him, so close to his palace, and supposing these ruins had been here, would he not have suffered them to be repaired, rather than have obliged his Christian queen to travel daily to such a distance as St. Martin's church, or St. Pancrace's chapel, for the performance of her devotions.
Some indeed have conjectured that the church found by St. Augustine, in the east part of the city, was that of St.Martin, truly so situated; and urge in favor of it, that there have not been at any time any remains of British or Roman bricks discovered scattered in or about this church of our Saviour, those infallible, as Mr. Somner stiles them, signs of antiquity, and so generally found in buildings, which have been erected on, or close to the spot where more antient ones have stood. But to proceed, king Ethelbert's donation to Augustine was made in the year 596, who immediately afterwards went over to France, and was consecrated a bishop at Arles, and after his return, as soon as he had sufficiently finished a church here, whether built out of ruins or anew, it matters not, he exercised his episcopal function in the dedication of it, says the register of Christ-church, to the honor of Christ our Saviour; whence it afterwards obtained the name of Christ-church. (fn. 4)
From the time of Augustine for the space of upwards of three hundred years, there is not found in any printed or manuscript chronicle, the least mention of the fabric of this church, so that it is probable nothing befell it worthy of being recorded; however it should be mentioned, that during that period the revenues of it were much increased, for in the leiger books of it there are registered more than fifty donations of manors, lands, &c. so large and bountiful, as became the munificence of kings and nobles to confer. (fn. 5)
It is supposed, especially as we find no mention made of any thing to the contrary, that the fabric of this church for two hundred years after Augustine's time, met with no considerable molestations; but afterwards, the frequent invasions of the Danes involved both the civil and ecclesiastical state of this country in continual troubles and dangers; in the confusion of which, this church appears to have run into a state of decay; for when Odo was promoted to the archbishopric, in the year 938, the roof of it was in a ruinous condition; age had impaired it, and neglect had made it extremely dangerous; the walls of it were of an uneven height, according as it had been more or less decayed, and the roof of the church seemed ready to fall down on the heads of those underneath. All this the archbishop undertook to repair, and then covered the whole church with lead; to finish which, it took three years, as Osbern tells us, in the life of Odo; (fn. 6) and further, that there was not to be found a church of so large a size, capable of containing so great a multitude of people, and thus, perhaps, it continued without any material change happening to it, till the year 1011; a dismal and fatal year to this church and city; a time of unspeakable confusion and calamities; for in the month of September that year, the Danes, after a siege of twenty days, entered this city by force, burnt the houses, made a lamentable slaughter of the inhabitants, rifled this church, and then set it on fire, insomuch, that the lead with which archbishop Odo had covered it, being melted, ran down on those who were underneath. The sull story of this calamity is given by Osbern, in the life of archbishop Odo, an abridgement of which the reader will find below. (fn. 7)
The church now lay in ruins, without a roof, the bare walls only standing, and in this desolate condition it remained as long as the fury of the Danes prevailed, who after they had burnt the church, carried away archbishop Alphage with them, kept him in prison seven months, and then put him to death, in the year 1012, the year after which Living, or Livingus, succeeded him as archbishop, though it was rather in his calamities than in his seat of dignity, for he too was chained up by the Danes in a loathsome dungeon for seven months, before he was set free, but he so sensibly felt the deplorable state of this country, which he foresaw was every day growing worse and worse, that by a voluntary exile, he withdrew himself out of the nation, to find some solitary retirement, where he might bewail those desolations of his country, to which he was not able to bring any relief, but by his continual prayers. (fn. 8) He just outlived this storm, returned into England, and before he died saw peace and quientness restored to this land by king Canute, who gaining to himself the sole sovereignty over the nation, made it his first business to repair the injuries which had been done to the churches and monasteries in this kingdom, by his father's and his own wars. (fn. 9)
As for this church, archbishop Ægelnoth, who presided over it from the year 1020 to the year 1038, began and finished the repair, or rather the rebuilding of it, assisted in it by the royal munificence of the king, (fn. 10) who in 1023 presented his crown of gold to this church, and restored to it the port of Sandwich, with its liberties. (fn. 11) Notwithstanding this, in less than forty years afterwards, when Lanfranc soon after the Norman conquest came to the see, he found this church reduced almost to nothing by fire, and dilapidations; for Eadmer says, it had been consumed by a third conflagration, prior to the year of his advancement to it, in which fire almost all the antient records of the privileges of it had perished. (fn. 12)
The same writer has given us a description of this old church, as it was before Lanfranc came to the see; by which we learn, that at the east end there was an altar adjoining to the wall of the church, of rough unhewn stone, cemented with mortar, erected by archbishop Odo, for a repository of the body of Wilfrid, archbishop of York, which Odo had translated from Rippon hither, giving it here the highest place; at a convenient distance from this, westward, there was another altar, dedicated to Christ our Saviour, at which divine service was daily celebrated. In this altar was inclosed the head of St. Swithin, with many other relics, which archbishop Alphage brought with him from Winchester. Passing from this altar westward, many steps led down to the choir and nave, which were both even, or upon the same level. At the bottom of the steps, there was a passage into the undercroft, under all the east part of the church. (fn. 13) At the east end of which, was an altar, in which was inclosed, according to old tradition, the head of St. Furseus. From hence by a winding passage, at the west end of it, was the tomb of St. Dunstan, (fn. 14) but separated from the undercroft by a strong stone wall; over the tomb was erected a monument, pyramid wife, and at the head of it an altar, (fn. 15) for the mattin service. Between these steps, or passage into the undercroft and the nave, was the choir, (fn. 16) which was separated from the nave by a fair and decent partition, to keep off the crowds of people that usually were in the body of the church, so that the singing of the chanters in the choir might not be disturbed. About the middle of the length of the nave, were two towers or steeples, built without the walls; one on the south, and the other on the north side. In the former was the altar of St. Gregory, where was an entrance into the church by the south door, and where law controversies and pleas concerning secular matters were exercised. (fn. 17) In the latter, or north tower, was a passage for the monks into the church, from the monastery; here were the cloysters, where the novices were instructed in their religious rules and offices, and where the monks conversed together. In this tower was the altar of St. Martin. At the west end of the church was a chapel, dedicated to the blessed Virgin Mary, to which there was an ascent by steps, and at the east end of it an altar, dedicated to her, in which was inclosed the head of St. Astroburta the Virgin; and at the western part of it was the archbishop's pontifical chair, made of large stones, compacted together with mortar; a fair piece of work, and placed at a convenient distance from the altar, close to the wall of the church. (fn. 18)
To return now to archbishop Lanfranc, who was sent for from Normandy in 1073, being the fourth year of the Conqueror's reign, to fill this see, a time, when a man of a noble spirit, equal to the laborious task he was to undertake, was wanting especially for this church; and that he was such, the several great works which were performed by him, were incontestable proofs, as well as of his great and generous mind. At the first sight of the ruinous condition of this church, says the historian, the archbishop was struck with astonishment, and almost despaired of seeing that and the monastery re edified; but his care and perseverance raised both in all its parts anew, and that in a novel and more magnificent kind and form of structure, than had been hardly in any place before made use of in this kingdom, which made it a precedent and pattern to succeeding structures of this kind; (fn. 19) and new monasteries and churches were built after the example of it; for it should be observed, that before the coming of the Normans most of the churches and monasteries in this kingdom were of wood; (all the monasteries in my realm, says king Edgar, in his charter to the abbey of Malmesbury, dated anno 974, to the outward sight are nothing but worm-eaten and rotten timber and boards) but after the Norman conquest, such timber fabrics grew out of use, and gave place to stone buildings raised upon arches; a form of structure introduced into general use by that nation, and in these parts surnished with stone from Caen, in Normandy. (fn. 20) After this fashion archbishop Lanfranc rebuilt the whole church from the foundation, with the palace and monastery, the wall which encompassed the court, and all the offices belonging to the monastery within the wall, finishing the whole nearly within the compass of seven years; (fn. 21) besides which, he furnished the church with ornaments and rich vestments; after which, the whole being perfected, he altered the name of it, by a dedication of it to the Holy Trinity; whereas, before it was called the church of our Saviour, or Christ-church, and from the above time it bore (as by Domesday book appears) the name of the church of the Holy Trinity; this new church being built on the same spot on which the antient one stood, though on a far different model.
After Lanfranc's death, archbishop Anselm succeeded in the year 1093, to the see of Canterbury, and must be esteemed a principal benefactor to this church; for though his time was perplexed with a continued series of troubles, of which both banishment and poverty made no small part, which in a great measure prevented him from bestowing that cost on his church, which he would otherwise have done, yet it was through his patronage and protection, and through his care and persuasions, that the fabric of it, begun and perfected by his predecessor, became enlarged and rose to still greater splendor. (fn. 22)
In order to carry this forward, upon the vacancy of the priory, he constituted Ernulph and Conrad, the first in 1104, the latter in 1108, priors of this church; to whose care, being men of generous and noble minds, and of singular skill in these matters, he, during his troubles, not only committed the management of this work, but of all his other concerns during his absence.
Probably archbishop Anselm, on being recalled from banishment on king Henry's accession to the throne, had pulled down that part of the church built by Lanfranc, from the great tower in the middle of it to the east end, intending to rebuild it upon a still larger and more magnificent plan; when being borne down by the king's displeasure, he intrusted prior Ernulph with the work, who raised up the building with such splendor, says Malmesbury, that the like was not to be seen in all England; (fn. 23) but the short time Ernulph continued in this office did not permit him to see his undertaking finished. (fn. 24) This was left to his successor Conrad, who, as the obituary of Christ church informs us, by his great industry, magnificently perfected the choir, which his predecessor had left unfinished, (fn. 25) adorning it with curious pictures, and enriching it with many precious ornaments. (fn. 26)
This great undertaking was not entirely compleated at the death of archbishop Anselm, which happened in 1109, anno 9 Henry I. nor indeed for the space of five years afterwards, during which the see of Canterbury continued vacant; when being finished, in honour of its builder, and on account of its more than ordinary beauty, it gained the name of the glorious choir of Conrad. (fn. 27)
After the see of Canterbury had continued thus vacant for five years, Ralph, or as some call him, Rodulph, bishop of Rochester, was translated to it in the year 1114, at whose coming to it, the church was dedicated anew to the Holy Trinity, the name which had been before given to it by Lanfranc. (fn. 28) The only particular description we have of this church when thus finished, is from Gervas, the monk of this monastery, and that proves imperfect, as to the choir of Lanfranc, which had been taken down soon after his death; (fn. 29) the following is his account of the nave, or western part of it below the choir, being that which had been erected by archbishop Lanfranc, as has been before mentioned. From him we learn, that the west end, where the chapel of the Virgin Mary stood before, was now adorned with two stately towers, on the top of which were gilded pinnacles. The nave or body was supported by eight pair of pillars. At the east end of the nave, on the north side, was an oratory, dedicated in honor to the blessed Virgin, in lieu, I suppose, of the chapel, that had in the former church been dedicated to her at the west end. Between the nave and the choir there was built a great tower or steeple, as it were in the centre of the whole fabric; (fn. 30) under this tower was erected the altar of the Holy Cross; over a partition, which separated this tower from the nave, a beam was laid across from one side to the other of the church; upon the middle of this beam was fixed a great cross, between the images of the Virgin Mary and St. John, and between two cherubims. The pinnacle on the top of this tower, was a gilded cherub, and hence it was called the angel steeple; a name it is frequently called by at this day. (fn. 31)
This great tower had on each side a cross isle, called the north and south wings, which were uniform, of the same model and dimensions; each of them had a strong pillar in the middle for a support to the roof, and each of them had two doors or passages, by which an entrance was open to the east parts of the church. At one of these doors there was a descent by a few steps into the undercroft; at the other, there was an ascent by many steps into the upper parts of the church, that is, the choir, and the isles on each side of it. Near every one of these doors or passages, an altar was erected; at the upper door in the south wing, there was an altar in honour of All Saints; and at the lower door there was one of St. Michael; and before this altar on the south side was buried archbishop Fleologild; and on the north side, the holy Virgin Siburgis, whom St. Dunstan highly admired for her sanctity. In the north isle, by the upper door, was the altar of St. Blaze; and by the lower door, that of St. Benedict. In this wing had been interred four archbishops, Adelm and Ceolnoth, behind the altar, and Egelnoth and Wlfelm before it. At the entrance into this wing, Rodulph and his successor William Corboil, both archbishops, were buried. (fn. 32)
Hence, he continues, we go up by some steps into the great tower, and before us there is a door and steps leading down into the south wing, and on the right hand a pair of folding doors, with stairs going down into the nave of the church; but without turning to any of these, let us ascend eastward, till by several more steps we come to the west end of Conrad's choir; being now at the entrance of the choir, Gervas tells us, that he neither saw the choir built by Lanfranc, nor found it described by any one; that Eadmer had made mention of it, without giving any account of it, as he had done of the old church, the reason of which appears to be, that Lanfranc's choir did not long survive its founder, being pulled down as before-mentioned, by archbishop Anselm; so that it could not stand more than twenty years; therefore the want of a particular description of it will appear no great defect in the history of this church, especially as the deficiency is here supplied by Gervas's full relation of the new choir of Conrad, built instead of it; of which, whoever desires to know the whole architecture and model observed in the fabric, the order, number, height and form of the pillars and windows, may know the whole of it from him. The roof of it, he tells us, (fn. 33) was beautified with curious paintings representing heaven; (fn. 34) in several respects it was agreeable to the present choir, the stalls were large and framed of carved wood. In the middle of it, there hung a gilded crown, on which were placed four and twenty tapers of wax. From the choir an ascent of three steps led to the presbiterium, or place for the presbiters; here, he says, it would be proper to stop a little and take notice of the high altar, which was dedicated to the name of CHRIST. It was placed between two other altars, the one of St. Dunstan, the other of St. Alphage; at the east corners of the high altar were fixed two pillars of wood, beautified with silver and gold; upon these pillars was placed a beam, adorned with gold, which reached across the church, upon it there were placed the glory, (fn. 35) the images of St. Dunstan and St. Alphage, and seven chests or coffers overlaid with gold, full of the relics of many saints. Between those pillars was a cross gilded all over, and upon the upper beam of the cross were set sixty bright crystals.
Beyond this, by an ascent of eight steps towards the east, behind the altar, was the archiepiscopal throne, which Gervas calls the patriarchal chair, made of one stone; in this chair, according to the custom of the church, the archbishop used to sit, upon principal festivals, in his pontifical ornaments, whilst the solemn offices of religion were celebrated, until the consecration of the host, when he came down to the high altar, and there performed the solemnity of consecration. Still further, eastward, behind the patriarchal chair, (fn. 36) was a chapel in the front of the whole church, in which was an altar, dedicated to the Holy Trinity; behind which were laid the bones of two archbishops, Odo of Canterbury, and Wilfrid of York; by this chapel on the south side near the wall of the church, was laid the body of archbishop Lanfranc, and on the north side, the body of archbishop Theobald. Here it is to be observed, that under the whole east part of the church, from the angel steeple, there was an undercrost or crypt, (fn. 37) in which were several altars, chapels and sepulchres; under the chapel of the Trinity before-mentioned, were two altars, on the south side, the altar of St. Augustine, the apostle of the English nation, by which archbishop Athelred was interred. On the north side was the altar of St. John Baptist, by which was laid the body of archbishop Eadsin; under the high altar was the chapel and altar of the blessed Virgin Mary, to whom the whole undercroft was dedicated.
To return now, he continues, to the place where the bresbyterium and choir meet, where on each side there was a cross isle (as was to be seen in his time) which might be called the upper south and north wings; on the east side of each of these wings were two half circular recesses or nooks in the wall, arched over after the form of porticoes. Each of them had an altar, and there was the like number of altars under them in the crost. In the north wing, the north portico had the altar of St. Martin, by which were interred the bodies of two archbishops, Wlfred on the right, and Living on the left hand; under it in the croft, was the altar of St. Mary Magdalen. The other portico in this wing, had the altar of St. Stephen, and by it were buried two archbishops, Athelard on the left hand, and Cuthbert on the right; in the croft under it, was the altar of St. Nicholas. In the south wing, the north portico had the altar of St. John the Evangelist, and by it the bodies of Æthelgar and Aluric, archbishops, were laid. In the croft under it was the altar of St. Paulinus, by which the body of archbishop Siricius was interred. In the south portico was the altar of St. Gregory, by which were laid the corps of the two archbishops Bregwin and Plegmund. In the croft under it was the altar of St. Owen, archbishop of Roan, and underneath in the croft, not far from it the altar of St. Catherine.
Passing from these cross isles eastward there were two towers, one on the north, the other on the south side of the church. In the tower on the north side was the altar of St. Andrew, which gave name to the tower; under it, in the croft, was the altar of the Holy Innocents; the tower on the south side had the altar of St. Peter and St. Paul, behind which the body of St. Anselm was interred, which afterwards gave name both to the altar and tower (fn. 38) (now called St. Anselm's). The wings or isles on each side of the choir had nothing in particular to be taken notice of.— Thus far Gervas, from whose description we in particular learn, where several of the bodies of the old archbishops were deposited, and probably the ashes of some of them remain in the same places to this day.
As this building, deservedly called the glorious choir of Conrad, was a magnificent work, so the undertaking of it at that time will appear almost beyond example, especially when the several circumstances of it are considered; but that it was carried forward at the archbishop's cost, exceeds all belief. It was in the discouraging reign of king William Rufus, a prince notorious in the records of history, for all manner of sacrilegious rapine, that archbishop Anselm was promoted to this see; when he found the lands and revenues of this church so miserably wasted and spoiled, that there was hardly enough left for his bare subsistence; who, in the first years that he sat in the archiepiscopal chair, struggled with poverty, wants and continual vexations through the king's displeasure, (fn. 39) and whose three next years were spent in banishment, during all which time he borrowed money for his present maintenance; who being called home by king Henry I. at his coming to the crown, laboured to pay the debts he had contracted during the time of his banishment, and instead of enjoying that tranquility and ease he hoped for, was, within two years afterwards, again sent into banishment upon a fresh displeasure conceived against him by the king, who then seized upon all the revenues of the archbishopric, (fn. 40) which he retained in his own hands for no less than four years.
Under these hard circumstances, it would have been surprizing indeed, that the archbishop should have been able to carry on so great a work, and yet we are told it, as a truth, by the testimonies of history; but this must surely be understood with the interpretation of his having been the patron, protector and encourager, rather than the builder of this work, which he entrusted to the care and management of the priors Ernulph and Conrad, and sanctioned their employing, as Lanfranc had done before, the revenues and stock of the church to this use. (fn. 41)
In this state as above-mentioned, without any thing material happening to it, this church continued till about the year 1130, anno 30 Henry I. when it seems to have suffered some damage by a fire; (fn. 42) but how much, there is no record left to inform us; however it could not be of any great account, for it was sufficiently repaired, and that mostly at the cost of archbishop Corboil, who then sat in the chair of this see, (fn. 43) before the 4th of May that year, on which day, being Rogation Sunday, the bishops performed the dedication of it with great splendor and magnificence, such, says Gervas, col. 1664, as had not been heard of since the dedication of the temple of Solomon; the king, the queen, David, king of Scots, all the archbishops, and the nobility of both kingdoms being present at it, when this church's former name was restored again, being henceforward commonly called Christ-church. (fn. 44)
Among the manuscripts of Trinity college library, in Cambridge, in a very curious triple psalter of St. Jerome, in Latin, written by the monk Eadwyn, whose picture is at the beginning of it, is a plan or drawing made by him, being an attempt towards a representation of this church and monastery, as they stood between the years 1130 and 1174; which makes it probable, that he was one of the monks of it, and the more so, as the drawing has not any kind of relation to the plalter or sacred hymns contained in the manuscript.
His plan, if so it may be called, for it is neither such, nor an upright, nor a prospect, and yet something of all together; but notwithstanding this rudeness of the draftsman, it shews very plain that it was intended for this church and priory, and gives us a very clear knowledge, more than we have been able to learn from any description we have besides, of what both were at the above period of time. (fn. 45)
Forty-four years after this dedication, on the 5th of September, anno 1174, being the 20th year of king Henry II.'s reign, a fire happened, which consumed great part of this stately edifice, namely, the whole choir, from the angel steeple to the east end of the church, together with the prior's lodgings, the chapel of the Virgin Mary, the infirmary, and some other offices belonging to the monastery; but the angel steeple, the lower cross isles, and the nave appear to have received no material injury from the flames. (fn. 46) The narrative of this accident is told by Gervas, the monk of Canterbury, so often quoted before, who was an eye witness of this calamity, as follows:
Three small houses in the city near the old gate of the monastery took fire by accident, a strong south wind carried the flakes of fire to the top of the church, and lodged them between the joints of the lead, driving them to the timbers under it; this kindled a fire there, which was not discerned till the melted lead gave a free passage for the flames to appear above the church, and the wind gaining by this means a further power of increasing them, drove them inwardly, insomuch that the danger became immediately past all possibility of relief. The timber of the roof being all of it on fire, fell down into the choir, where the stalls of the manks, made of large pieces of carved wood, afforded plenty of fuel to the flames, and great part of the stone work, through the vehement heat of the fire, was so weakened, as to be brought to irreparable ruin, and besides the fabric itself, the many rich ornaments in the church were devoured by the flames.
The choir being thus laid in ashes, the monks removed from amidst the ruins, the bodies of the two saints, whom they called patrons of the church, the archbishops Dunstan and Alphage, and deposited them by the altar of the great cross, in the nave of the church; (fn. 47) and from this time they celebrated the daily religious offices in the oratory of the blessed Virgin Mary in the nave, and continued to do so for more than five years, when the choir being re edified, they returned to it again. (fn. 48)
Upon this destruction of the church, the prior and convent, without any delay, consulted on the most speedy and effectual method of rebuilding it, resolving to finish it in such a manner, as should surpass all the former choirs of it, as well in beauty as size and magnificence. To effect this, they sent for the most skilful architects that could be found either in France or England. These surveyed the walls and pillars, which remained standing, but they found great part of them so weakened by the fire, that they could no ways be built upon with any safety; and it was accordingly resolved, that such of them should be taken down; a whole year was spent in doing this, and in providing materials for the new building, for which they sent abroad for the best stone that could be procured; Gervas has given a large account, (fn. 49) how far this work advanced year by year; what methods and rules of architecture were observed, and other particulars relating to the rebuilding of this church; all which the curious reader may consult at his leisure; it will be sufficient to observe here, that the new building was larger in height and length, and more beautiful in every respect, than the choir of Conrad; for the roof was considerably advanced above what it was before, and was arched over with stone; whereas before it was composed of timber and boards. The capitals of the pillars were now beautified with different sculptures of carvework; whereas, they were before plain, and six pillars more were added than there were before. The former choir had but one triforium, or inner gallery, but now there were two made round it, and one in each side isle and three in the cross isles; before, there were no marble pillars, but such were now added to it in abundance. In forwarding this great work, the monks had spent eight years, when they could proceed no further for want of money; but a fresh supply coming in from the offerings at St. Thomas's tomb, so much more than was necessary for perfecting the repair they were engaged in, as encouraged them to set about a more grand design, which was to pull down the eastern extremity of the church, with the small chapel of the Holy Trinity adjoining to it, and to erect upon a stately undercroft, a most magnificent one instead of it, equally lofty with the roof of the church, and making a part of it, which the former one did not, except by a door into it; but this new chapel, which was dedicated likewise to the Holy Trinity, was not finished till some time after the rest of the church; at the east end of this chapel another handsome one, though small, was afterwards erected at the extremity of the whole building, since called Becket's crown, on purpose for an altar and the reception of some part of his relics; (fn. 50) further mention of which will be made hereafter.
The eastern parts of this church, as Mr. Gostling observes, have the appearance of much greater antiquity than what is generally allowed to them; and indeed if we examine the outside walls and the cross wings on each side of the choir, it will appear, that the whole of them was not rebuilt at the time the choir was, and that great part of them was suffered to remain, though altered, added to, and adapted as far as could be, to the new building erected at that time; the traces of several circular windows and other openings, which were then stopped up, removed, or altered, still appearing on the walls both of the isles and the cross wings, through the white-wash with which they are covered; and on the south side of the south isle, the vaulting of the roof as well as the triforium, which could not be contrived so as to be adjusted to the places of the upper windows, plainly shew it. To which may be added, that the base or foot of one of the westernmost large pillars of the choir on the north side, is strengthened with a strong iron band round it, by which it should seem to have been one of those pillars which had been weakened by the fire, but was judged of sufficient firmness, with this precaution, to remain for the use of the new fabric.
The outside of this part of the church is a corroborating proof of what has been mentioned above, as well in the method, as in the ornaments of the building.— The outside of it towards the south, from St. Michael's chapel eastward, is adorned with a range of small pillars, about six inches diameter, and about three feet high, some with santastic shasts and capitals, others with plain ones; these support little arches, which intersect each other; and this chain or girdle of pillars is continued round the small tower, the eastern cross isle and the chapel of St. Anselm, to the buildings added in honour of the Holy Trinity, and St. Thomas Becket, where they leave off. The casing of St. Michael's chapel has none of them, but the chapel of the Virgin Mary, answering to it on the north side of the church, not being fitted to the wall, shews some of them behind it; which seems as if they had been continued before, quite round the eastern parts of the church.
These pillars, which rise from about the level of the pavement, within the walls above them, are remarkably plain and bare of ornaments; but the tower above mentioned and its opposite, as soon as they rise clear of the building, are enriched with stories of this colonade, one above another, up to the platform from whence their spires rise; and the remains of the two larger towers eastward, called St. Anselm's, and that answering to it on the north side of the church, called St. Andrew's are decorated much after the same manner, as high as they remain at present.
At the time of the before-mentioned fire, which so fatally destroyed the upper part of this church, the undercrost, with the vaulting over it, seems to have remained entire, and unhurt by it.
The vaulting of the undercrost, on which the floor of the choir and eastern parts of the church is raised, is supported by pillars, whose capitals are as various and fantastical as those of the smaller ones described before, and so are their shafts, some being round, others canted, twisted, or carved, so that hardly any two of them are alike, except such as are quite plain.
These, I suppose, may be concluded to be of the same age, and if buildings in the same stile may be conjectured to be so from thence, the antiquity of this part of the church may be judged, though historians have left us in the dark in relation to it.
In Leland's Collectanea, there is an account and description of a vault under the chancel of the antient church of St. Peter, in Oxford, called Grymbald's crypt, being allowed by all, to have been built by him; (fn. 51) Grymbald was one of those great and accomplished men, whom king Alfred invited into England about the year 885, to assist him in restoring Christianity, learning and the liberal arts. (fn. 52) Those who compare the vaults or undercrost of the church of Canterbury, with the description and prints given of Grymbald's crypt, (fn. 53) will easily perceive, that two buildings could hardly have been erected more strongly resembling each other, except that this at Canterbury is larger, and more pro fusely decorated with variety of fancied ornaments, the shafts of several of the pillars here being twisted, or otherwise varied, and many of the captials exactly in the same grotesque taste as those in Grymbald's crypt. (fn. 54) Hence it may be supposed, that those whom archbishop Lanfranc employed as architects and designers of his building at Canterbury, took their model of it, at least of this part of it, from that crypt, and this undercrost now remaining is the same, as was originally built by him, as far eastward, as to that part which begins under the chapel of the Holy Trinity, where it appears to be of a later date, erected at the same time as the chapel. The part built by Lanfranc continues at this time as firm and entire, as it was at the very building of it, though upwards of seven hundred years old. (fn. 55)
But to return to the new building; though the church was not compleatly finished till the end of the year 1184, yet it was so far advanced towards it, that, in 1180, on April 19, being Easter eve, (fn. 56) the archbishop, prior and monks entered the new choir, with a solemn procession, singing Te Deum, for their happy return to it. Three days before which they had privately, by night, carried the bodies of St. Dunstan and St. Alphage to the places prepared for them near the high altar. The body likewise of queen Edive (which after the fire had been removed from the north cross isle, where it lay before, under a stately gilded shrine) to the altar of the great cross, was taken up, carried into the vestry, and thence to the altar of St. Martin, where it was placed under the coffin of archbishop Livinge. In the month of July following the altar of the Holy Trinity was demolished, and the bodies of those archbishops, which had been laid in that part of the church, were removed to other places. Odo's body was laid under St. Dunstan's and Wilfrid's under St. Alphage's; Lanfranc's was deposited nigh the altar of St. Martin, and Theobald's at that of the blessed Virgin, in the nave of the church, (fn. 57) under a marble tomb; and soon afterwards the two archbishops, on the right and left hand of archbishop Becket in the undercrost, were taken up and placed under the altar of St. Mary there. (fn. 58)
After a warning so terrible, as had lately been given, it seemed most necessary to provide against the danger of fire for the time to come; the flames, which had so lately destroyed a considerable part of the church and monastery, were caused by some small houses, which had taken fire at a small distance from the church.— There still remained some other houses near it, which belonged to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine; for these the monks of Christ-church created, by an exchange, which could not be effected till the king interposed, and by his royal authority, in a manner, compelled the abbot and convent to a composition for this purpose, which was dated in the year 1177, that was three years after the late fire of this church. (fn. 59)
These houses were immediately pulled down, and it proved a providential and an effectual means of preserving the church from the like calamity; for in the year 1180, on May 22, this new choir, being not then compleated, though it had been used the month be fore, as has been already mentioned, there happened a fire in the city, which burnt down many houses, and the flames bent their course towards the church, which was again in great danger; but the houses near it being taken away, the fire was stopped, and the church escaped being burnt again. (fn. 60)
Although there is no mention of a new dedication of the church at this time, yet the change made in the name of it has been thought by some to imply a formal solemnity of this kind, as it appears to have been from henceforth usually called the church of St. Thomas the Martyr, and to have continued so for above 350 years afterwards.
New names to churches, it is true. have been usually attended by formal consecrations of them; and had there been any such solemnity here, undoubtedly the same would not have passed by unnoticed by every historian, the circumstance of it must have been notorious, and the magnificence equal at least to the other dedications of this church, which have been constantly mentioned by them; but here was no need of any such ceremony, for although the general voice then burst forth to honour this church with the name of St. Thomas, the universal object of praise and adoration, then stiled the glorious martyr, yet it reached no further, for the name it had received at the former dedication, notwithstanding this common appellation of it, still remained in reality, and it still retained invariably in all records and writings, the name of Christ church only, as appears by many such remaining among the archives of the dean and chapter; and though on the seal of this church, which was changed about this time; the counter side of it had a representation of Becket's martyrdom, yet on the front of it was continued that of the church, and round it an inscription with the former name of Christ church; which seal remained in force till the dissolution of the priory.
It may not be improper to mention here some transactions, worthy of observation, relating to this favorite saint, which passed from the time of his being murdered, to that of his translation to the splendid shrine prepared for his relics.
Archbishop Thomas Becket was barbarously murdered in this church on Dec. 29, 1170, being the 16th year of king Henry II. and his body was privately buried towards the east end of the undercrost. The monks tell us, that about the Easter following, miracles began to be wrought by him, first at his tomb, then in the undercrost, and in every part of the whole fabric of the church; afterwards throughout England, and lastly, throughout the rest of the world. (fn. 61) The same of these miracles procured him the honour of a formal canonization from pope Alexander III. whose bull for that purpose is dated March 13, in the year 1172. (fn. 62) This declaration of the pope was soon known in all places, and the reports of his miracles were every where sounded abroad. (fn. 63)
Hereupon crowds of zealots, led on by a phrenzy of devotion, hastened to kneel at his tomb. In 1177, Philip, earl of Flanders, came hither for that purpose, when king Henry met and had a conference with him at Canterbury. (fn. 64) In June 1178, king Henry returning from Normandy, visited the sepulchre of this new saint; and in July following, William, archbishop of Rhemes, came from France, with a large retinue, to perform his vows to St. Thomas of Canterbury, where the king met him and received him honourably. In the year 1179, Lewis, king of France, came into England; before which neither he nor any of his predecessors had ever set foot in this kingdom. (fn. 65) He landed at Dover, where king Henry waited his arrival, and on August 23, the two kings came to Canterbury, with a great train of nobility of both nations, and were received with due honour and great joy, by the archbishop, with his com-provincial bishops, and the prior and the whole convent. (fn. 66)
King Lewis came in the manner and habit of a pilgrim, and was conducted to the tomb of St. Thomas by a solemn procession; he there offered his cup of gold and a royal precious stone, (fn. 67) and gave the convent a yearly rent for ever, of a hundred muids of wine, to be paid by himself and his successors; which grant was confirmed by his royal charter, under his seal, and delivered next day to the convent; (fn. 68) after he had staid here two, (fn. 69) or as others say, three days, (fn. 70) during which the oblations of gold and silver made were so great, that the relation of them almost exceeded credibility. (fn. 71) In 1181, king Henry, in his return from Normandy, again paid his devotions at this tomb. These visits were the early fruits of the adoration of the new sainted martyr, and these royal examples of kings and great persons were followed by multitudes, who crowded to present with full hands their oblations at his tomb.— Hence the convent was enabled to carry forward the building of the new choir, and they applied all this vast income to the fabric of the church, as the present case instantly required, for which they had the leave and consent of the archbishop, confirmed by the bulls of several succeeding popes. (fn. 72)
¶From the liberal oblations of these royal and noble personages at the tomb of St. Thomas, the expences of rebuilding the choir appear to have been in a great measure supplied, nor did their devotion and offerings to the new saint, after it was compleated, any ways abate, but, on the contrary, they daily increased; for in the year 1184, Philip, archbishop of Cologne, and Philip, earl of Flanders, came together to pay their vows at this tomb, and were met here by king Henry, who gave them an invitation to London. (fn. 73) In 1194, John, archbishop of Lions; in the year afterwards, John, archbishop of York; and in the year 1199, king John, performed their devotions at the foot of this tomb. (fn. 74) King Richard I. likewise, on his release from captivity in Germany, landing on the 30th of March at Sandwich, proceeded from thence, as an humble stranger on foot, towards Canterbury, to return his grateful thanks to God and St. Thomas for his release. (fn. 75) All these by name, with many nobles and multitudes of others, of all sorts and descriptions, visited the saint with humble adoration and rich oblations, whilst his body lay in the undercrost. In the mean time the chapel and altar at the upper part of the east end of the church, which had been formerly consecrated to the Holy Trinity, were demolished, and again prepared with great splendor, for the reception of this saint, who being now placed there, implanted his name not only on the chapel and altar, but on the whole church, which was from thenceforth known only by that of the church of St. Thomas the martyr.
On July 7, anno 1220, the remains of St. Thomas were translated from his tomb to his new shrine, with the greatest solemnity and rejoicings. Pandulph, the pope's legate, the archbishops of Canterbury and Rheims, and many bishops and abbots, carried the coffin on their shoulders, and placed it on the new shrine, and the king graced these solemnities with his royal presence. (fn. 76) The archbishop of Canterbury provided forage along all the road, between London and Canterbury, for the horses of all such as should come to them, and he caused several pipes and conduits to run with wine in different parts of the city. This, with the other expences arising during the time, was so great, that he left a debt on the see, which archbishop Boniface, his fourth successor in it, was hardly enabled to discharge.
¶The saint being now placed in his new repository, became the vain object of adoration to the deluded people, and afterwards numbers of licences were granted to strangers by the king, to visit this shrine. (fn. 77) The titles of glorious, of saint and martyr, were among those given to him; (fn. 78) such veneration had all people for his relics, that the religious of several cathedral churches and monasteries, used all their endeavours to obtain some of them, and thought themselves happy and rich in the possession of the smallest portion of them. (fn. 79) Besides this, there were erected and dedicated to his honour, many churches, chapels, altars and hospitals in different places, both in this kingdom and abroad. (fn. 80) Thus this saint, even whilst he lay in his obscure tomb in the undercroft, brought such large and constant supplies of money, as enabled the monks to finish this beautiful choir, and the eastern parts of the church; and when he was translated to the most exalted and honourable place in it, a still larger abundance of gain filled their coffers, which continued as a plentiful supply to them, from year to year, to the time of the reformation, and the final abolition of the priory itself.
A silk embroidered banner from the Dominican convent at Stone, Staffordshire. It shows the Patroness of First Holy Communicants, Blessed Imelda Lambertini.
When she was nine, she was placed, at her own wish, in the Dominican convent in Val di Pietra, to be trained there by the nuns. Her disposition soon endeared her to all, while the zeal with which she entered all the religious life of the house greatly edified the nuns. Her special devotion was to the Eucharistic presence of Our Lord at Mass and in the tabernacle. To receive Our Lord in Holy Communion became the consuming desire of her heart, but the custom of the place and time had fixed twelve as the earliest age for a first communion. She would sometimes exclaim: "Tell me, can anyone receive Jesus into his heart and not die? "
When she was eleven years old she was present with the rest of the community at the Ascension Day Mass. All the others had received their communion: only Imelda was left unsatisfied. The nuns were preparing to leave the church when some of them were startled to see what appeared to be a Sacred Host hovering in the air above Imelda, as she knelt before the closed tabernacle absorbed in prayer. Quickly they attracted the attention of the priest who hurried forward with a paten on which to receive It. In the face of such a miracle he could not do otherwise than give to Imelda her first communion, which was also her last.
For the rapture with which she received her Lord was so great that it broke her heart: she sank unconscious to the ground, and when loving hands upraised her, it was found that she was dead.
When the Victorians replaced the old-fashioned box pews they put a replica carving of the pedlar and his dog on the front row of the new seating.
The chancel stalls have late 15c carving showing churchwarden John Chapman & his wife Catherine with their rosaries. c1462 John donated funds for the construction of the north aisle and tower. Clearly a very rich merchant, he features an old legend:
That dreaming one night if he went to London, he should certainly meet with a man upon London Bridge, which would tell him good news; he was so perplext in his mind, that till he set upon his journey, he could have no rest: to London therefore he hasts, and walk'd upon the Bridge for some hours, where being espyed by a Shopkeeper, and asked what he wanted, he answered, I am come hither upon a very vain errand, and so told the story of his dream which occasioned the journey. Whereupon the Shopkeeper reply'd, alas good friend ! should I have heeded dreams, I might have proved myself, as very a fool as thou hast; for 'tis not long since that I dreamt, that at a place called Swaffham-Market in Norfolk, dwells one John Chapman a Pedlar, who hath a tree under which is buried a Pot of Money. Now therefore, if I should have made a journey thither to dig for such hidden treasure, judge you whether I should not have been counted a fool. To whom the pedlar cunningly said "Yes verily;" I will therefore return home and follow my business, not heeding such dreams hence forward. But when he came home, (being satisfied that his dream was fulfilled,) he took occasion to dig in that place, and accordingly found a large pot full of money, which he prudently conceal'd, putting the pot amongst the rest of his brass. After a time it happen'd that one, who came to his house and beholding the pot, observed an inscription upon it, which being in Latin, he interpreted it, that under that there was an other twice as good. when he heard the meaning of it he said, 'tis very true, in the shop where I bought this pot, stood another under it, which was twice as big; but considering that it might tend to his further profit to dig deeper in the same place where he found that, he fell again to work, and discover'd such a pot, as was intimated by the inscription, full of old coine: notwithstanding all which, he so conceal'd his wealth, that the neighbours took no notice of it. But not long after the inhabitance of Swaffham resolving to re-edify their church, and having consulted the workmen about the charge, they made a levy, wherein they taxed the Pedlar, according to no other rate than what they had formerly done. But he knowing his own wealth, came to the church and desired the workmen to shew him their model, and to tell him what they esteemed the charge of the North-isle would amount to; which when they told him, he presently undertook to pay them for building it, and not only that, but of a very tall tower steeple. And in testimony thereof, there was then his picture, with his wife and three children, in every window of the isle, with an inscription running through the bottom of all those windows, viz. "Grate pro bono Statu Johannis Chapman, Uroris eius, et Liberorum suorum, qui quiuem for hannes hane Alam rum Tenestris, tecto et feri fecit"
This story occurs elsewhere and may have taken root here on account of "chapman" being an old word for a pedlar. John is therefore remembered as the "Pedlar of Swaffham"
The older carvings are thought to have come from their family pew which once dominated the north aisle, where survive 15c stained glass in the upper parts of the windows showing donor couples, thought to be of John Chapman, his wife and family. www.flickr.com/gp/52219527@N00/Q39f5M www.flickr.com/gp/52219527@N00/8puZ64
"Also for the Soule of John Chapman and Catharyne his Wyf, the which geve ij Shyppys of Sylver, ij grete Antiphoners on Grayle; ij gret Candelsticks, on hole sute of Cloth of Tyssews, and also did make the North Ysle, with glasyng, stolyng and Pathing of the same with Marbyl, and did geve to making the New Stepyll in Mony, besyde the Premisses cxxli."
- Church of St Peter & St Paul, Swaffham Norfolk
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Chella (anticamente Sala Colonia in latino, oggi in arabo شالة) è un sito archeologico a nord di Rabat, in Marocco. Il sito è la prova della più antica presenza umana nel delta del fiume Bou Regreg, lungo le cui rive Fenici e Cartaginesi stanziarono diverse basi. A circa 3 km dal centro, il complesso si trova al di fuori delle mura della città e occupa il sito della romana Sala, su una bassa collina coperta di vegetazione, rifugio delle cicogne nella stagione riproduttiva. Gli scavi hanno rivelato la presenza di un importante agglomerato e infatti Chella conserva le vestigia di una città romana, con i resti del Decumano Massimo, di un foro presso il quale si riconoscono le tracce della Curia, di una fontana monumentale e di un arco di trionfo. Il sito rimase poi in stato di abbandono per diversi secoli, fino a che i Merinidi lo scelsero per edificarvi la loro necropoli. Circondata da una cinta di mura fortificate, ad essa si accede attraverso una porta monumentale, riccamente decorata e aperta ad arco acuto, ai cui lati sono poste due massicce torri merlate semi-ottagonali. Nella parte superiore del portale è presente un’iscrizione in caratteri cufici, dalla quale si apprende che la costruzione dello stesso fu intrapresa dal sultano Abu Said (1310-31) e terminata nel 1339 sotto il regno di Abu el-Hassan, il più grande sultano della sua dinastia. All’interno della necropoli si trovano alcune tombe di marabout e, presso una sorgente trasformata in fontana per abluzioni, la necropoli reale con la tomba di Abu el-Hassan, la cui stele, finemente decorata, è sovrastata da una tettoia a muqarnas. Nelle vicinanze sono presenti la moschea di Abu Yussef Yacub con un minareto decorato con maioliche policrome ora in rovina e una zaouia con un oratorio. Nella terrazza ai piedi del complesso si estende un incantevole giardino alimentato dalle acque della vicina sorgente Ayn Mdafa, che serpeggia nell’incavo della valletta.
Le Chellah, ou Chella (en arabe : شالة), est le site d'une nécropole mérinide située sur l'emplacement d'une cité romaine, à Rabat, au Maroc. Depuis 2005, ce site accueille chaque année le festival Jazz au Chellah. Le site du Chellah fut sans doute la plus ancienne agglomération humaine à l'embouchure du Bou Regreg. Les Phéniciens et les Carthaginois, qui ont fondé plusieurs comptoirs au Maroc, ont probablement habité les bords du Bouregreg. Le Chellah conserve, en revanche, les vestiges d'une ville romaine. Les fouilles ont révélé la présence d'une agglomération d'une certaine importance ; celle de la ville citée sous les noms de Sala, par Ptolémée, et de Sala Colonia, dans l'itinéraire d'Antonin. Les restes du Decumanus Maximus, ou voie principale, ont été dégagés ainsi que ceux d'un forum, d'une fontaine monumentale, d'un arc de triomphe, d'une basilique chrétienne, etc. La voie principale de Sala a été suivie par des sondages exécutés en direction du port antique sur le Bouregreg, port aujourd'hui ensablé. Ainsi, la ville romaine dépassait l'enceinte mérinide en direction du fleuve. Les Banou Ifren s'emparèrent de la ville2 au XIe siècle, et elle fut une de leurs métropoles jusqu'à ce que qu'elle passe sous le pouvoir des Almoravides. Le Chellah était abandonné depuis plusieurs siècles quand les Mérinides choisirent son site pour y édifier leur nécropole. Comme l'indique l'inscription en écriture coufique, qui surmonte la porte d'entrée, les travaux ont été achevés en 1339, sous le règne d'Abû al-Hasan `Alî. L'occupation du site a été progressive, et les aménagements successifs ont abouti à la réalisation d'une somptueuse nécropole. Protégée par une enceinte importante à laquelle on accède par une porte monumentale, la nécropole mérinide contient notamment une salle d'ablutions, une zaouïa avec un oratoire, un minaret paré de zellige et plusieurs salles funéraires, telle celle d'Aboul Hassan dont la stèle, finement décorée, repose sous un auvent à mouqanas. Plus tard, Abû `Inân Fâris, son fils, affecta, pour l'entretenir, les revenus d'un bain mérinide de Rabat, le hammâm Ej-Jdîd. La porte de la nécropole est une porte majestueuse et guerrière. Puissante, elle est flanquée de deux bastions semi-octogonaux avec des encorbellements surmontés de merlons pointus. Cette porte de forteresse ouvre sur une petite oasis, un havre de paix d'une dizaine d'hectares où la tranquillité des lieux est interrompue de temps à autre par le claquement de bec des cigognes. Paysage clos et enchanteur, jardin à l'atmosphère magique où le sanctuaire du fondateur est au creux d'un vallon dans lequel serpente la source d'Aïn Mdafa.
Chellah, (Arabic: شالة) or Sala Colonia is a necropolis and complex of ancient Roman Mauretania Tingitana and medieval ruins at the outskirts of Rabat, Morocco. First spot of Salé, this latter was completed towards the north of the river. It is the most ancient human settlement on the mouth of the Bou Regreg River. The Phoenicians and the Carthaginians, who founded several colonies in Morocco, probably inhabited the banks of the Bou Regreg. Chellah is the site of the ruins of the Roman town known as Sala Colonia, referred to as Sala by Ptolemy. Excavations show an important port city with ruined Roman architectural elements including a decumanus maximus or principal Roman way, a forum and a triumphal arch. One of the two main Roman roads in Morocco reached the Atlantic through Iulia Constantia Zilil (Asilah), Lixus (Larache) and Sala Colonia. Another may have been built toward south, from Sala Colonia to modern Casablanca, then called Anfa. The Romans had two main naval ouposts on the Atlantic: Sala near modern Rabat and Mogador in north of Agadir. Roman expeditions sailed from there to find the Canary islands. The site was abandoned in 1154 in favour of nearby Salé. The Almohad dynasty used the ghost town as a necropolis. In the mid-14th century, a Merinid sultan, Abu l-Hasan, built monuments and the main gate, dated to 1339. These later Merinid additions included a mosque, a zawiya, and royal tombs, including that of Abu l-Hasan. Many structures in Chellah/Sala Colonia were damaged by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. The site has been converted to a garden and tourist venue.
La fondation de Sainte-Croix
La première église fut édifiée vers 330 dans l’angle nord-est de la ville fortifiée alors appelée Aurelianum. Elle doit son vocable à saint Euverte, son fondateur. En effet, c’est à cette époque que la Croix du Christ fut découverte à Jérusalem par sainte Hélène, mère de l’empereur romain Constantin Ier. Un morceau de cette « Vraie Croix » fut conservé comme relique dans la cathédrale. Saint Aignan, évêque successeur de saint Euverte, termine l’édifice et c’est l'architecte Mélius qui en surélève l’abside et le chœur vers 450.
La fin de l'église Sainte-Croix
Les Normands pillèrent l'église en 865, mais ne purent la brûler. Les rois carolingiens Carloman et Arnulph la reconstruisirent en 883.
En 989, un grand incendie détruisit une partie de la ville, y compris Sainte Croix.
Sainte-Croix, cathédrale romane
Au xie siècle, l'église cathédrale Saint-Étienne devient trop exiguë pour rester la principale église du diocèse d'Orléans. L'église Sainte-Croix est alors élevée au rang de cathédrale. Les bâtiments du chapitre sont regroupés au sud et à l'est de la cathédrale actuelle.
L’hérésie d'Orléans décrite par plusieurs textes et chroniques médiévales est une hérésie savante qui touche en 1022 une douzaine des plus érudits parmi les chanoines de la cathédrale Sainte-Croix, liés notamment à l'entourage de la reine Constance d'Arles. Ces derniers sont brûlés comme hérétiques sur ordre du roi capétien Robert le Pieux. Il s'agit du premier bûcher de la chrétienté médiévale.
L'évêque Arnoul II entreprend la reconstruction de l'église afin de doter Orléans d'une cathédrale digne de son rang. Cet édifice roman, achevé au xiie siècle, fut une vaste cathédrale avec un déambulatoire agrémenté d'alvéoles, et une belle façade appuyée par deux tours. Mais, construite sans doute trop rapidement, elle menaça ruine au bout de 200 ans et s'effondra en partie en 1227.
Le renouveau gothique
En 1278, l'évêque Robert de Courtenay, arrière-petit-fils du roi de France Louis le Gros, décida, au lieu de restaurer l'édifice en ruine, d'édifier une autre église dans le style nouveau qui fleurissait alors en France. Mais contraint de suivre le roi Saint Louis en Terre Sainte, il lègue le soin de poursuivre et d'achever les travaux à son ami l'évêque Gilles Pasté, son successeur. Celui-ci pose la première pierre du nouvel édifice gothique le 11 septembre 1288. Comme le veut l'usage, c'est par le chœur que les travaux commenceront, pour finir par la nef. Les anciennes tours romanes de la façade occidentale, ainsi que les travées de la nef non ruinées, seront conservées.
À son achèvement, la nouvelle cathédrale comportait un chœur gothique soutenu par de magnifiques arcs-boutants. Ce chœur fut complété par des chapelles absidiales à la fin du xiiie siècle et par des chapelles latérales au cours du xive siècle.
La cathédrale passe sans heurts la Guerre de Cent Ans, y compris le siège d'Orléans levé grâce à Jeanne d'Arc le 8 mai 1429.
En 1512, une grosse boule dorée surmontée d'une croix est hissée sur le clocher qui vient d'être élevé au-dessus de la croisée des transepts. Dans les années qui suivent, le raccord avec les transepts romans est terminé ; quatre travées neuves permettent à la nef d'atteindre le portail qui s'encastre entre ses deux vieilles tours.
The destruction by the Huguenots
In 1567 began the second war of religion and Orleans, more than half gained to their cause, passed into the hands of the Protestants who are bent on churches soon. Deploring these excesses, the Prince de Condé, head of the Protestants, made wall openings of the cathedral to prevent further looting. However, a small group of fanatics Huguenots disappointed Condé ready to deal with Catholics, enters the Cathedral on the night of March 23 to 24, 1568 and blew up the four pillars of the transept crossing. The pillars collapsed, causing the steeple, copper surmounting the sphere, the vaults of the chancel and nave. Only the apse remain intact radiating chapels around the choir, and the first two bays of the nave. Work interim clearing and development will be carried out quickly.
On July 2, 1598, King Henry IV returned to Britain after he signed the Edict of Nantes that will put an end to religious wars. In Orleans, it promises to launch, at the expense of the state, the reconstruction of the cathedral. It seals the foundation stone on April 18, 1601. A plate is then placed on one of the remaining pillars.
Reconstruction: the Cathedral of the Bourbons
The April 18, 1601, the King and Queen Marie de Medici laid the first stone of the new building. The choir was completed in 1623.
In 1627, we laid the foundations of the transept which will be completed in 1636.
The north transept was completed in 1643 and the south transept in 1690. The brand of the Sun King appears by introducing classicism share in the Gothic style building. His portrait and motto Nec pluribus impar also listed, with the completion date of 1679, in the center of the rosette located above the south transept portal. Currency can be translated: It would suffice to [govern] many [kingdoms].
The architect Étienne Martellange labored there in the seventeenth century, succeeded in the eighteenth century by Jacques V Gabriel, who created the stalls and choir screen and Louis-François Trouard.
In 1739 starts the construction of the western gate topped the two towers, extension of the nave. The old Romanesque façade, which has survived all the destruction was demolished. The façade until the base of the towers, was completed in 1773. The first two floors of the towers are built over the next ten years, while the need to strengthen the portal that threatens to collapse.
The Revolution suspended the proceedings, it lacks the Gothic building than its two towers.
It contains the work in 1817. The king Charles X inaugurated completion May 8, 1829, for the 400th anniversary of lifting the English siege by Joan of Arc and her army: a monumental flight of steps takes square outside the cathedral, along with the breakthrough of the new St. Joan of Arc and the creation of the great cathedral square.
The ravages of time and war
Since its completion in 1829, the cathedral has experienced the ravages of time and war.
The bell tower, which bowed ominously, was destroyed in 1854 and rebuilt and inaugurated in 1858.
The windows of the choir (work Lobin) are installed in 1859 at the Mgr Dupanloup initiative.
In 1940, during the German advance, part of the historic center of Orleans is ravaged by bombs and German shells. The cathedral is also affected, but the damage remains minor, like in 1944. Since the end of the Second World War, the restoration works succeed to restore the building to its former glory. However, the horrors of war are not all repaired for example, access to the two towers is closed to the public because not repaired since 1940; following the bombing of May 1944, the drone, bell worst (and therefore bigger) found himself finally cracked (in 1971). Become so unusable, it has been recast and reinstalled in 2012.
Archaeological research
The discovery of the seventeenth century
François Lemaire, judge ecclesiastical court of Orleans, recounts in History of the Church and diocese of Orleans in 1628 allegedly found during the digging of foundations for the north transept, the remains of a castle Roman who has, thereafter, never been confirmed.
Excavations 1890
The first discoveries date back to the insured work undertaken in 1889/1890 to install a stove in the cathedral. They helped to recognize the North Arm and the crossing, the alignment of the southern pillars of the nave of the Romanesque cathedral. Their publication is accompanied by a plan providing a hypothetical restitution, strongly inspired by Saint-Sernin in Toulouse plan (double nave aisle, very short choir and ambulatory with five chapels). Other reconstructions, equally distant from the historical reality was even suggested by Paul Frankl or Frédéric Lesueur.
Excavations 1937-1942
In 1937 opened under the direction of Georges Chenesseau, became honorary canon between time, the first real excavations conducted in order to recognize the Romanesque choir. Its results are spectacular: all the Romanesque choir, the fruit of two building campaigns, the ambulatory and the entrance to the shaft chapels are now known. The results are stored in an archaeological basement incorrectly called crypt, this space has no religious function.
Besides graves and substructures of Romanesque and Carolingian times, are revealed building remains attributed to the Gallo-romaine9 time. Georges Chenesseau identifies immediately with the basilica built by the holy bishop Euverte, causing violent controversy that quickly exceeded the local single frame.
In 1940 a survey in the north aisle of the nave shows the north wall of the nave, thus demonstrating that the Romanesque cathedral had only one aisle.
It remained to resolve the many chapels. Excavations in 1941 before the sacristy provide the answer: the cathedral of Orleans had three chapels.
Jeanne D'Arc
There is an indirect link between the present cathedral and Joan of Arc. The national historic heroine came following the Vespers Mass May 2, 1429 during the siege of Orleans (we must remember that the building as it is today did not exist in 1429, with the exception of the chapels apse, which surround the choir at the rear). It may be mentioned also that the rue Jeanne d'Arc opened the nineteenth century arrived before the main facade (at the time we wanted to release the foremost shrine small streets and medieval buildings that the hemmed, the name did not come after).
Each year, on the evening of May 7, during Johanniques holidays, takes place on the square, the ceremony of Delivery of Etendard (which evokes that of Joan of Arc). The municipality is the guardian and send it to Catholic religious authorities for the duration of the festivities. The facade of the cathedral is then used to support a sound and light. wp
This Masonic Pavement and Indented Skirting in the form of a rug.
www.masonicforum.ro/?cmd=displaystory&story_id=73&....
www.masonicforum.ro/?cmd=displaystory&story_id=73&....
The Mosaic Pavement
by GABRIEL VASILE OLTEAN
Expert Inspector of NGLR for Western Region; Past Worshipful Master, ZAMOLXIS Lodge, no. 182, Deva
"The interior decoration of a masonic lodge comprises ornaments, accessories and insignia. The ornaments are: the mosaic on the floor - respresenting spirt and matter, the shining star and the laced edge, which remind us always the first of the presence of God and the second of the protective wall" - cites Charles W Leadbeater from the ritual of mixed masonry in his work "Freemasonry - Rites and Initiations."
In the center of the Temple, on the ground, there is a rectangular floor, with black and white tiles, called the mosaic pavement (theoretically, cubes seen perspectivally), where a relation obtains between the sides, either 2:1 (the long square) or 1.618.../1 (the golden number), thus coming up with a surface proportional to the total area of the Lodge. Thus we see that practically the moasica, placed in the center of the Lodge is a microcosmic representation of the whole of creation and is by itself a sacred central area - whence the interdiction to ever step on the mosaic when the work of the Lodge is underway. The pavement symbolizes the indisociable operative complementarity of the two cosmic principles: the initiate must know how no longer let himself be dominated by the confrontation between positive and negative forces, to know (it is indispensable) how to use it, to master it so as to work constructively.
In Ancient Egypt, the mosaic was never stepped on except by a candidate and the masters of ceremony, and only at precise moments (by the Past Worshipful Master for the fulfilment of his tasks, by the First Expert when he took the light of the sacred fire, or by the sexton when he spread frankincense on the altar of the Temple. An extremely important aspect of the mosaic pavement is that, being placed in the middle of the Temple, framed by the three colonettes (which represent the Worshipful Master, the Senior and Junior Wardens), must be avoided by walking in a square, in a symbolic sense. The current of energy cross the floor, some along the length, some along the width, in lines that remind of the warp of a canvas.
Upon opening the work, the Trestle Board is depicted on this pavement, which varies with the first three degrees. The mosaic pavement signifies different things according to the traditional mode of work in the lodge, or the masonic rite employed.
The French Rite specifies that the pavement adorned the threshold of the geat porch of the Temple and showed that this is one of the ornaments of the Lodge, being the emblem of the intimate union among masons. Here it was explained to the Apprentice that he "could not stand on the mosaic pavement to contemplate the interior of the edifice". This started above from the seventh step, as we can well conclude by an attentive research of the Trestle Boards of the first two degrees.
The Rectified Scottish Rite speaks too little of this pavement, noting that "the mosaic pavement adorns the threshold of the great veranda of the Temple. It covers the entry to the subterranean part of the Temple between the two columns, to a crypt that held holy idols and especially the pledge of the alliance between the chosen people and the Creator: the Royal Ark (Ark of the Covenant).
The Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite does not describe in any way this ornament. As to the decoration of the Lodge, it is said however "the floor of the lodge is the pavement in alternative black and white squares. When it is thus decorated, a pavement is achieved with the shape of a long square, placed in the center of the Lodge, decorated on the model of the latter".
The York Rite affirms that "the mosaic pavement represents the floor of the Temple of Solomon", having the added laced edge. It is obvious enough that it is about a symbolic contribution in what regards the floor of the Lodge, because in the Bible the floor of the Temple isn't described as an series of black and white squares: "and the floor of the Temple was made from cypress planks" (3 Kings 6:15).
Whereas in the Emulation Rite (the Anglo-Saxon Rites are more precise in their descriptions) specifies that "the mosaic pavement may rightly be considered the wondrous tiling of a freemason Lodge due to its diversity and regularity. Thus the diversity of beings and objects in the world surfaces, as well the ensouled ones as those that are not". In the complementary course of the Rite of Emulation (in the fifth part) it is specified: "our lodge is adorned with mosaic pavement to mark the uncertainty of all terrestrial vanities... as we step on this mosaic, our thought must return to the original idea that we imitate and act as honorable men and masons". Mosaic pavement is presented as an image of faith, harmony, understanding..
Outside the definitions offered by different masonic rites, the mosaic pavement may be approached under many aspect, two of which seem edifying to us:
• The floor of the Lodge,
• The route of squares for the tracing of planes,
When we approach the mosaic pavement as floor of the Lodge, we are forced to distinguish between the pavement of operative and speculative Lodges.
In the first case, we specify that Lodges were usually annexes to the construction site, attached to the construction on the Southern side of the Work (to receive more light and to have the wall of the edifice for protection. It is extremely clear and evident that in this case no floor was imposed (nor would any be functional). The tiling that constitutes the mosaic is fragile in contradiction with the dimensions (weight) of the tools of freemasons (sledgehammers were very heavy). If we are talking about a surface for permanent cutting and polishing of rock, we can easily imagine that the floor of such a place was permanently covered by fragments, remains, abrasive dust. Not in the last place, we must note the fact that mosaic was principally fixed in especially prepared mortar in which designs were first marked that etched the image or drawing that was the purpose of the mosaic.
In the other approach, that of the speculative Lodges, a symbolic rug laid in squares may be laid on the floor, or it may be build from alternating black and white tiles, the decision being that of the Lodge. The notionc of mosaic pavement cannot be discussed before the appearance of Grand Lodges.
As a route of squares - as network of right angles - to trace planes is another mode of approach specific to operative lodges, which must distinguish:
A directory route of the edifice that must be understood after we describe the Medieval constructin site at the beginning of the work: on a leveled and cleared surface (treated with charcoal), a scheme of the main lines of the edifice was traced with the help of a rope covered in chalk. There
are documents to this effect that attest the describe practice, which reminds of certain answers from the masonic catechism. To the question: "how do you serve your Master?", there is the answer: "with charcoal, chalk and clay".
A technical assistance set of squares would be another variant of this approach. An amenably arranged surface, spread in regular squares through lines traced for inumerable uses, the first and most important being that of assembly table. It also served to establish easily a series of angles, in an approximate way that was sufficient for a mason (taking four divisions on a line, and on the perpendicular seven at one extremity, a reasaonbly 60° angle is obtained). In fact, we can imagine the banal math copybook paper that has helped us trace with more facility (and more precision) the geometrical shapes that tortured (or didn't) us in the geometry problems in elementary school.
The black and white, chessboard-like pavement is thus the mosaic pavement. In what pertains to the term "mosaic", there are two different opinions, one refering to Moses and one to the technique of decoration. Each school has its pros and cons, more or less logical and valid.
"The canvas of ours lives is a mixed thread, the good together with the bad" wrote Shakespeare. Anything is characterized by a combination of good and bad, light and shadow, joy and sadness, positive and negative, yin and yang. What is good for me may be bad for you, pleasure is generated by pain, etc.
Following the thread of the current Paper, we may say with certainty that the mosaic is not mart of the elements of Judaic architecture and that the mosaic pavement is a contribution of modern speculative Masonry, operative lodges never having been squared this way. It is obvious that the current exposition is not and does not wish to be an exhaustive work. It is a somewhat complex approach of an important symbol in the decoration of the masonic Temple and it wishes in fact to the a paper addressing an open question:
- The mosaic pavement is the floor of the Lodge (as the rituals consider it) or is it the space limited by the three pillars Power, Wisdom, and Beauty?
A good thought accompanied by the triple brotherly accolade!
Copyright Forum Masonic
The blazing star pattern used, is usually that of the
"pentalpha", or five pointed star with intermediate flames. This
star is primarily the symbol of divine providence and can be found
in our mosaic pavement. The five points should remind us also of
other masonic "fives". The five orders of arch itecture, the five
points of fellowship, the five senses and the five who must be
present in order for a Lodge to be held. The star is also said to
represent the Morning Star which is yet another symbol of rebirth
which is so significant to each of us.
I should point out that there is a six pointed star or hexalpha
which is also known as the "Glory". This six pointed star is the
Seal of Solomon and also the Star of David. This star is also
represented on the carpet at times and there is distinct confusion
in the texts over which star is THE star to use. The primary
symbolic meaning of the six pointed star is the universe as an
entity.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
I was in the area, checking up on the Heath Spotted Orchids, and the church was a five minute drive away, in the grounds of a former country house.
I park at the church and find it locked, as expected, but there were directions to a keyholder nearby, walking into the cobbled squares and converted estate buildings now executive housing.
I ring the bell: nothing
I ring again: nothing
I use the knocker: dog barks. Dog attacks the door.
There is angry voices. Or voice. There was the sound of the dog being put into a side room, and the struggle to close the door.
The front door opened: yes?
Can I have the church key, please?
Not sure if I still have it.
Why'd you want it?
To photograph the interior.
Who're with?
I'm with no one, I am photographing all parish churches in the county, and would like to do this one. I showed him my driving licence which should say under job title: obsessive and church crawler.
He seemed satisfied, and let me have the key.
Phew.
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Substantially rebuilt after a fire of 1598. The welcoming interior displays no chancel arch, although the doorways in the arcade show where the medieval rood screen ran the width of the church. The striking east window was designed by Wallace Wood in 1954. There is a good aumbry and piscina nearby. To the north of the chancel stands the excellent tomb chest of Sir John Tufton (d. 1624). The arcade into which it is built was lowered to allow a semi-circular alabaster ceiling to be inserted to set the composition off. Because it is completely free-standing it is one of the easiest tomb chests in Kent to study, with five sons kneeling on the south side and four daughters on the north . In addition there are complicated coats of arms and an inscription which records the rebuilding of the church by Tufton after the fire. On top of the chest lie Sir John and his wife, with their son Nicholas kneeling between their heads. Much of the monument is still covered with its original paint. The organ, which stands in the south aisle, may be the instrument on which Sir Arthur Sullivan composed 'The Lost Chord'. It originally stood in Hothfield Place where Sullivan was a frequent guest.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Hothfield
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HOTHFIELD
IS the next parish northward from Great Chart, and is so called from the bothe, or heath within it. The greatest part of this parish lies within the hundred of Chart and Longbridge, and the remainder in that of Calehill. It is in the division of East Kent.
THE PARISH of Hothfield lies a little more than two miles from Ashford north-westward, the high road from which towards Lenham and Maidstone goes through it over Hothfield heath. It contains about 1250 acres, and fifty houses, the rents of it are about 1300l. per annum. It is not a pleasant, nor is it accounted a healthy situation, owing probably to the many low and watry lands in and about it. The river Stour, which rises at Lenham, runs along the southern side of the parish, which is watered likewise by several small streams, which rise about Charing and Westwell, from under the chalk hills, and join the Stour here. The heath, which contains near one half of the parish, consists mostly of a deep sand, and has much peat on it, which is continually dug by the poor for firing. On the east and west sides of the heath, the latter being called West-street, are two hamlets of houses, which form the scattered village of Hothfield. The Place-house stands on a hill, at a small distance from the corner of the heath southward, with some small plantations of trees about it, forming a principal object to the country round it. It is a square mansion, built of Portland stone, by the late earl of Thanet, on the scite of the antient mansion, close to the church; it has a good prospect round it. The adjoining grass grounds are extensive, and well laid out for the view over them; the water, which rises at no great distance from the house, becomes very soon a tolerable sized stream, and running on in sight of it, joins the Stour a little above Worting mill; these grass lands are fertile and good fatting land, like those mentioned before, near Godington, in Great Chart. The parsonage house, which is a neat dwelling of white stucco, stands at the southern corner of the heath, at the foot of the hill, adjoining the Place grounds, near West-street. Between the heath and Potter's corner, towards Ashford, the soil begins to approach much of the quarry stone.
Though the land in the parish is naturally poor, it is rendered productive by the chalk and lime procured from the down hills. The inhabitants have an unlimited right of commoning with those of the adjoining parish of Westwell, to upwards of five hundred acres of common, which affords them the means of keeping a cow and their poultry, which, with the liberty of digging peat, draws a number of certificated poor to reside here. There is not one dissenter in the parish.
Jack Cade, the noted rebel, in Henry the VI.th's reign, though generally supposed to be taken by Alexander Iden, esq. the sheriff, in a field belonging to Ripple manor, in the adjoining parish of Westwell, was discovered, as some say, in a field in this parish, still named from him, Jack Cade's field, now laid open with the rest of the grounds adjoining to Hothfieldplace.
The plant caryophyllata montena, or water avens, which is a very uncommon one, grows in a wood near Barber's hill, in this parish.
THE MANOR OF HOTHFIELD seems, in very early times, to have had the same owners as the barony of Chilham, and to have continued so, for a considerable length of time after the descendants of Fulbert de Dover were become extinct here. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, who in the 5th year of king Edward II. had a grant of this manor as well as of Chilham in see, appears to have held this manor of Hothfield by grand sergeantry of the archbishop, and accordingly, in the 8th year of it, at the enthroning of archbishop Walter Reynolds, he made his claim, and was allowed to perform the office of chamberlain for that day, and to serve up the water, for the archbishop to wash his hands; for which his fees were, the furniture of his bedchamber, and the bason and towel made use of for that purpose; (fn. 1) and in the next year he obtained of the king, a charter of free-warren for his demesne lands within this manor among others. After this the manor of Hothfield continued to be held by the like service, and continued in the same owners as that of Chilham, (fn. 2) down to Thomas lord Roos, who became entitled to the see of it, who for his attachment to the house of Lancaster, was, with others, attainted, in the 1st year of king Edward IV.'s reign, and his lands confiscated to the crown. But Margaret his mother, being possessed of it for her life, afterwards married Roger Wentworth, esq. whom she survived, and died possessed of it in the 18th year of that reign; upon which, by reason of the above attaint, the crown became entitled to it, the inquisition for which was found in the 4th year of that reign; immediately after which, the king granted it to Sir John Fogge, of Repton, who was comptroller of his household and one of his privy council, for his life. On king Richard III.'s accession to the crown, he took shelter in the abbey of Westminster, from whence he was invited by the king, who in the presence of a numerous assembly gave him his hand, and bid him be confident that from thenceforward he was sure to him in affection. This is rather mentioned, as divers chronicles have erroneously mentioned that he was an attorney, whom this prince had pardoned for forgery. He died possessed of it in the 17th year of Henry VII. where it remained till Henry VIII. granted it, at the very latter end of his reign, to John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, in Sussex, whose lands were disgavelled by the acts of 2 and 3 Edward VI. who afterwards resided at Hothfield, where he kept his shrievalty in the 3d year of queen Elizabeth. He was descended from ancestors who were originally written Toketon, and held lands in Rainham, in this county, as early as king John's reign; (fn. 3) one of whom was seated at Northiam, in Sussex, in king Richard the IId.'s reign, at which time they were written as at present, Tufton, and they continued there till John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, before-mentioned, removed hither. He died in 1567, and was buried in this church, leaving one son John Tufton, who resided at Hothfield-place, and in July, in the 16th year of queen Elizabeth, anno 1573, entertained the queen here, in her progress through this county. In the 17th year of that reign he was sheriff, and being a person of eminent repure and abilities, he was knighted by king James, in his 1st year, and created a baronet at the first institution of that order, on June 19, 1611. He married Olimpia, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. of Sileham, in Rainham, by whom he had three daughters; and secondly Christian, daughter and coheir of Sir Humphry Brown, a justice of the common pleas. He died in 1624, and was buried in this church, having had by her several sons and daughters. Of the former, Nicholas the eldest, succeeded him in title and estates. Sir Humphry was of Bobbing and the Mote, in Maidstone, and Sir William was of Vinters, in Boxley, both baronets, of whom further mention has already been made in the former parts of this history.
Sir Nicholas Tufton, the eldest son, was by letters patent, dated Nov. 1, anno 2 Charles I. created lord Tufton, baron of Tufton, in Sussex; and on August 5, in the 4th year of that reign, earl of the Isle of Thanet, in this county. He had four sons and nine daughters; of the former, John succeeded him in honors, and Cecil, was father of Sir Charles Tufton, of Twickenham, in Middlesex. John, the eldest son, second earl of Thanet, married in 1629 Margaret, eldest daughter and coheir of Richard, earl of Dorset, by his wife the lady Anne Clifford, sole daughter and heir of George, earl of Cumberland, and baroness of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy, by which marriage these tithes descended afterwards to their issue. In the time of the commonwealth, after king Charles the 1st.'s death, he was, in 1654, appointed sheriff, and however inconsistent it might be to his rank, yet he served the office. He left six sons and six daughters, and was succeeded by Nicholas his eldest son, third earl of Thanet, who by the deaths of his mother in 1676, and of his cousin-german Alethea, then wife of Edward Hungerford, esq. who died s. p. in 1678, he became heir to her, and sole heir to his grandmother Anne, lady Clifford, and consequently to the baronies of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy; dying s. p. he was succeeded as earl of Thanet and lord Clifford, &c. by his next brother John, who, on his mother's death, succeeded likewise by her will to her large estates in Yorkshire and Westmoreland, and to the hereditary in sheriffdoms of the latter and of Cumberland likewise, for it frequently happened in these hereditary sheriffdoms that female heirs became possessed of them, and consequently were sheriffs of those districts; but this was not at all an unusual thing, there being many frequent instances of women bearing that office, as may be seen in most of the books in which any mention is made of it, some instances of which the reader may see in the differtation on the office of sheriff, in vol. i. of this history. That part of their office which was incompatible for a woman to exercise, was always executed by a deputy, or shyre-clerk, in their name. But among the Harleian MSS. is a very remarkable note taken from Mr. Attorney-general Noys reading in Lincoln's inn, in 1632, in which, upon a point, whether the office of a justice of a forest might be executed by a woman; it was said, that Margaret, countess of Richmond, mother to king Henry VII. was a justice of peace; that the lady Bartlet, perhaps meant for Berkley, was also made a justice of the peace by queen Mary, in Gloucestershire; and that in Suffolk one ..... Rowse, a woman, did usually fit upon the bench at assizes and sessions among other justices, gladio cincta. John, earl of Thanet, died unmarried, as did his next brother earl Richard, so that the titles devolved to Thomas Tufton, who became the sixth earl of Thanet, and lord Clifford, which latter title was decreed to him by the house of peers in 1691. He left surviving issue five daughters and coheirs, the eldest of whom, Catherine, married Ed. Watson, viscount Sondes, son and heir of Lewis, earl of Rockingham; and the four others married likewise into noble families. He died at Hothfield in 1729, having by his will bequeathed several legacies to charitable purposes, especially towards the augmentation of small vicarages and curacies. He died without male issue, so that the titles of earl of Thanet and baron Tufton, and of baronet, descended to his nephew Sackville Tufton, eldest surviving son of his brother Sackville Tufton, fifth son of John, second earl of Thanet. But the title of baroness Clifford, which included those of Westmoreland and Vescy, upon the death of Thomas, earl of Thanet, without male issue, became in abeyance between his daughters and coheirs above-mentioned, and in 1734, king George II. confirmed that barony to Margaret, his third surviving daughter and coheir, married to Thomas Coke, lord Lovel, afterwards created earl of Leicester, which title is now again in abeyance by his death s. p. Which Sackville Tufton died in 1721, leaving Sackville the seventh earl of Thanet, whose eldest son of the same name succeeded him as eighth earl of Thanet, and rebuilt the present mansion of Hothfield-place, in which he afterwards resided, but being obliged to travel to Italy for his health, he died there at Nice in 1786, and was brought to England, and buried in the family vault at Rainham, in this county, where his several ancestors, earls of Thanet, with their countesses, and other branches of the family, lie deposited, from the time of their first accession to that title. He married Mary, daughter of lord John Philip Sackville, sister of the present duke of Dorset, by whom he had five sons and two daughters, Elizabeth; and Caroline married to Joseph Foster Barham, esq. Of the former, Sackville, born in 1769, succeeded him in honors; Charles died unmarried; John is M. P. for Appleby; Henry is M. P. for Rochester, and William. He was succeeded by his eldest son, the present right hon. Sackville Tufton, earl of Thanet, baron Tufton, lord of the honor of Skipton, in Craven, and baronet, and hereditary sheriff of the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, who is the present possessor of this manor and seat, and resides here, and is at present unmarried. (fn. 4)
The antient arms of Tufton were, Argent, on a pale, sable, an eagle displayed of the field; which coat they continued to bear till Nicholas Tufton, the first earl of Thanet, on his obtaining that earldom, altered it to that of Sable, an eagle displayed, ermine, within a bordure, argent; which coat was confirmed by Sir William Segar, garter, in 1628, and has been borne by his descendants to the present time. The present earl of Thanet bears for his coat of arms that last-mentioned; for his crest, On a wreath, a sea lion, seiant, proper; and for his supporters, Two eagles, their wings expanded, ermine.
SWINFORT, or Swinford, which is its more proper name, is a manor in this parish, lying in the southern part of it, near the river Stour, and probably took its name from some ford in former times over it here. However that be, it had formerly proprietors, who took their name from it; but they were never of any eminence, nor can I discover when they became extinct here; only that in king Henry V.'s reign it was in the possession of Bridges, descended from John atte Bregg, one of those eminent persons, whose effigies, kneeling and habited in armour, was painted in the window often mentioned before, in Great Chart church; and in this family the manor of Swinford continued till the latter end of king James I.'s reign, when it passed by sale from one of them to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, whose son John, earl of Thanet, before the 20th year of that reign, exchanged it for other lands, which lay more convenient to him, with his near neighbour Nicholas Toke, esq. of Godinton, in which family and name it has continued down, in like manner as that feat, to Nicholas Roundell Toke, esq. now of Godinton, the present possessor of it. A court baron is held for this manor.
FAUSLEY, or FOUSLEY, as it is now usually called, is the last manor to be described in this parish; its more antient name was Foughleslee, or, as it was usually pronounced, Faulesley; which name it gave to owners who in early times possessed and resided at it. John de Foughleslee, of Hothfield, was owner of it in the second year of king Richard II. and in his descendants this manor seems to have continued till about the beginning of queen Elizabeth's reign, when it passed by sale to Drury; from which name, at the latter end of it, this manor was conveyed to Paris, who immediately afterwards alienated it to Bull, who soon afterwards reconveyed it back again to the same family, whence, in the next reign of king James I. it was sold to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, in whose successors, earls of Thanet, it has continued down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, the present owner of it.
Charities.
RICHARD PARIS, by deed in 1577, gave for the use of the poor, a rent charge of 16s. per annum, out of land called Hanvilles, in this parish; the trustees of which have been long ago deceased, and no new ones appointed since.
THOMAS KIPPS, gent. of Canterbury, by will in 1680, gave for the use of the same, an annual rent charge of 1l. out of lards in Great Chart.
RICHARD MADOCKE, clothier, of this parish, by will in 1596, ordered that the 11l. which he had lent to the parishioners of Hothfield, towards the rebuilding of their church, should, when repaid, be as a stock to the poor of this parish for ever.
SIR JOHN TUFTON, knight and baronet, and Nicholas his son, first earl of Thanet, by their wills in 1620 and in 1630, gave certain sums of money, with which were purchased eight acres of land in the parish of Kingsnoth, of the annual produce of 10l.
DR. JOHN GRANDORGE, by deed in 1713, gave a house and land in Newington, near Hythe, of the annual produce of 7l. which premises are vested in the earl of Thanet.
THOMAS, EARL OF THANET, and SACKVILLE TUFTON. Esq. grandfather of the present earl, by their deeds in 1720 and 1726, gave for a school mistress to teach 24 poor children, a rent charge and a house and two gardens, in Hothfield, the produce in money 20l. The premises were vested in Sir Penyston Lambe and Dr. John Grandorge, long since deceased; since which the trust has not been renewed; and the original writings are in the earl of Thanet's possession.
Such of the above benefactions as have been contributed by the Tufton family, have been ordered by their descendants to be distributed annually by the steward of Hothfield-place for the time being, without the interference of the parish officers, to such as received no relief from this parish; the family looking upon these rather as a private munisicence intended to continue under their direction.
The poor annually relieved are about twenty-five, casually as many.
HOTHFIELD is situated within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
¶The church, which is small, is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of three isles and a chancel, having a low spire steeple, covered with shingles at the west end, in which are five bells, and though it stands on a hill, is yet very damp. There is not any painted glass in the windows of it. On the north side in it, is a monument of curious workmanship, having the figures of a man and woman, in full proportion, lying at length on it; at three corners of it are those of two sons and one daughter, kneeling, weeping, all in white marble; round the edges is an inscription, for Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, and Olympia his wife, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. On the monument are the arms of Tufton, with quarterings and impalements; on the sides are two inscriptions, one, that he re-edified this church after it was burnt, at his own charge, and under it made a vault for himself and his posterity, and after that he had lived eighty years, departed this life; the other enumerating his good qualities, and saying that by his will he gave perpetual legacies to this parish and that of Rainham. This monument is parted off from the north isle by a strong partition of wooden balustrades, seven feet high. The vault underneath is at most times several feet deep with water, and the few coffins which were remaining in it were some years since removed to the vaults at Rainham, where this family have been deposited ever since. On the north side of the chancel is a smaller one, formerly called St. Margaret's chapel, now shut up, and made no use of. In the south isle is a memorial for Rebecca, wife of William Henman, esq. obt. 1739, and Anna-Rebecca, their daughter, obt. 1752; arms, A lion, between three mascles, impaling a bend, cotized, engrailed. This church, which is a rectory, was always esteemed an appendage to the manor, and has passed accordingly, in like manner with it, down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, lord of the manor of Hothfield, the present patron of it.
This rectory is valued in the king's books at 17l. 5s. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 14s. 6d.
There was a pension of ten shillings paid from it to the college of Wye. In 1588 here were communicants one hundred and ninety-three, and it was valued at eighty pounds. In 1640, communicants one hundred and ninety, and valued at only sixty pounds per annum. There is a modus of two pence an acre of the pasture lands in the parish. There are twelve acres of glebe. It is now worth about one hundred and twenty pounds per annum.
Richard Hall, of this parish, by will in 1524, ordered that his feoffees should enfeoffe certain honest persons in his house and garden here, set beside the pelery, to the intent that the yearly serme of them should go to the maintenance of the rode-light within the church.
This church was burnt down in the reign of king James I. and was rebuilt at the sole expence of Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, who died in 1624. His descendant Thomas, earl of Thanet, who died in 1729, gave the present altar-piece, some of the pewing, and the pulpit.
TERCER PUESTO CONCURSO INTERNACIONAL
DE IDEAS "SOLAR PARK SOUTH".
CALABRIA, ITALIA.
THIRD PLACE WINNERS ARCHITECTURE INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION " SOLAR PARK SOUTH "
CALABRIA, ITALY
www.newitalianblood.com/solarparksouth/
www.a57.org/articulos/actualidad/tercer-puesto-solar-park....
Group / Equipo:
Daniel Azuero
Tomas Jaramillo
Andres Gutierrez
Juan Jaramillo
CONCEPTO DE PROYECTO
Entre todas las energías renovables, la más eficiente y única con capacidad de regenerarse infinitamente sin producir ningún daño ambiental es la educación. Es un suministro inagotable de conocimiento que se extiende de persona a persona cubriendo enormes extensiones generando un progreso social, ambiental y económico masivo. Por esto el Parque Solar debería ser un foco mundial en el desarrollo de la Educación Verde.
Por esto se busca construir un parque en el que la participación ciudadana y la naturaleza sean los principales materiales de construcción. Es así como se propone que la carretera A3 Salerno entre Scilla y Bagnara Calabra se transforme en una centro de investigación y educación verde. El Parque Solar es un lugar que anima a los habitantes a jugar un rol clave en su construcción; tienen la posibilidad de transformarlo, creando un espacio público de intervención que pertenece a cada individuo y que crece en relación a la apropiación que estos hagan sobre él.
SEMBRANDO EDUCACION VERDE.Esta es la actitud que mejor describe al Parque Solar y la intervención establece tres objetivos principales para lograrlo. Primero, se buscar establecer una conexión entre Scilla y Bagnara Calabra como un circuito de transporte que simultáneamente conformará una reserva natural.En segundo lugar se busca potenciar el progreso en base a la educación cívica y la implementación de vegetación nativa y su reproducción como principales estrategias de diseño. Finalmente se utiliza esta vieja carretera como un detonador para el desarrollo en una extensión mucho mayor, en temas de energías renovables, nuevos sistemas de movilidad y desarrollo económico, entre otros.
PROJECT CONCEPT
Among all known renewable energies the most efficient and the only one of its kind capable of regenerating infinitely producing “zero environmental harm” is EDUCATION. This type of energy is an inexhaustible supply of knowledge that spreads from person to person covering vast extensions of area resulting in massive social, environmental and economical progress. This is why SOLAR PARK SOUTH should be a worldwide focal point in the development of GREEN EDUCATION.By this we mean, to edify a park where civic participation and nature are the main construction materials, as we promote that the A3 Salerno Highway between Scilla and Bagnara Calabra section transform into a Seeding Green Education Research Center. SOLAR PARK SOUTH is a place that encourages inhabitants to play a part in the construction as they have the possibility to transform it, creating an intervention Public space that belongs to everyone as it grows in relation to the appropriation of the individuals who act on it.
SEEDING GREEN EDUCATION is the attitude which best describes SOLAR PARK SOUTH, for that reason this intervention establishes three main goals to accomplish this purpose. First of all, to set up a connection between Scilla and Bagnara Calabra throughout a multi-mobility circuit that simultaneously will conform and protect what is established as natural reserve.Secondly to enhance progress in a very big extension of territory within simple overpowering approaches as civic education and the implementation of native vegetation reproduction as the main design strategy. Finally utilize this old highway as a detonator for the development of a larger extension of territory combining conflicting topics as renewable energy technologies, new mobility systems and economic development, all at once.
TERCER PUESTO CONCURSO INTERNACIONAL
DE IDEAS "SOLAR PARK SOUTH".
CALABRIA, ITALIA.
THIRD PLACE WINNERS ARCHITECTURE INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION " SOLAR PARK SOUTH "
CALABRIA, ITALY
www.newitalianblood.com/solarparksouth/
www.a57.org/articulos/actualidad/tercer-puesto-solar-park....
Group / Equipo:
Daniel Azuero
Tomas Jaramillo
Andres Gutierrez
Juan Jaramillo
CONCEPTO DE PROYECTO
Entre todas las energías renovables, la más eficiente y única con capacidad de regenerarse infinitamente sin producir ningún daño ambiental es la educación. Es un suministro inagotable de conocimiento que se extiende de persona a persona cubriendo enormes extensiones generando un progreso social, ambiental y económico masivo. Por esto el Parque Solar debería ser un foco mundial en el desarrollo de la Educación Verde.
Por esto se busca construir un parque en el que la participación ciudadana y la naturaleza sean los principales materiales de construcción. Es así como se propone que la carretera A3 Salerno entre Scilla y Bagnara Calabra se transforme en una centro de investigación y educación verde. El Parque Solar es un lugar que anima a los habitantes a jugar un rol clave en su construcción; tienen la posibilidad de transformarlo, creando un espacio público de intervención que pertenece a cada individuo y que crece en relación a la apropiación que estos hagan sobre él.
SEMBRANDO EDUCACION VERDE.Esta es la actitud que mejor describe al Parque Solar y la intervención establece tres objetivos principales para lograrlo. Primero, se buscar establecer una conexión entre Scilla y Bagnara Calabra como un circuito de transporte que simultáneamente conformará una reserva natural.En segundo lugar se busca potenciar el progreso en base a la educación cívica y la implementación de vegetación nativa y su reproducción como principales estrategias de diseño. Finalmente se utiliza esta vieja carretera como un detonador para el desarrollo en una extensión mucho mayor, en temas de energías renovables, nuevos sistemas de movilidad y desarrollo económico, entre otros.
PROJECT CONCEPT
Among all known renewable energies the most efficient and the only one of its kind capable of regenerating infinitely producing “zero environmental harm” is EDUCATION. This type of energy is an inexhaustible supply of knowledge that spreads from person to person covering vast extensions of area resulting in massive social, environmental and economical progress. This is why SOLAR PARK SOUTH should be a worldwide focal point in the development of GREEN EDUCATION.By this we mean, to edify a park where civic participation and nature are the main construction materials, as we promote that the A3 Salerno Highway between Scilla and Bagnara Calabra section transform into a Seeding Green Education Research Center. SOLAR PARK SOUTH is a place that encourages inhabitants to play a part in the construction as they have the possibility to transform it, creating an intervention Public space that belongs to everyone as it grows in relation to the appropriation of the individuals who act on it.
SEEDING GREEN EDUCATION is the attitude which best describes SOLAR PARK SOUTH, for that reason this intervention establishes three main goals to accomplish this purpose. First of all, to set up a connection between Scilla and Bagnara Calabra throughout a multi-mobility circuit that simultaneously will conform and protect what is established as natural reserve.Secondly to enhance progress in a very big extension of territory within simple overpowering approaches as civic education and the implementation of native vegetation reproduction as the main design strategy. Finally utilize this old highway as a detonator for the development of a larger extension of territory combining conflicting topics as renewable energy technologies, new mobility systems and economic development, all at once.
TERCER PUESTO CONCURSO INTERNACIONAL
DE IDEAS "SOLAR PARK SOUTH".
CALABRIA, ITALIA.
THIRD PLACE WINNERS ARCHITECTURE INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION " SOLAR PARK SOUTH "
CALABRIA, ITALY
www.newitalianblood.com/solarparksouth/
www.a57.org/articulos/actualidad/tercer-puesto-solar-park....
Group / Equipo:
Daniel Azuero
Tomas Jaramillo
Andres Gutierrez
Juan Jaramillo
CONCEPTO DE PROYECTO
Entre todas las energías renovables, la más eficiente y única con capacidad de regenerarse infinitamente sin producir ningún daño ambiental es la educación. Es un suministro inagotable de conocimiento que se extiende de persona a persona cubriendo enormes extensiones generando un progreso social, ambiental y económico masivo. Por esto el Parque Solar debería ser un foco mundial en el desarrollo de la Educación Verde.
Por esto se busca construir un parque en el que la participación ciudadana y la naturaleza sean los principales materiales de construcción. Es así como se propone que la carretera A3 Salerno entre Scilla y Bagnara Calabra se transforme en una centro de investigación y educación verde. El Parque Solar es un lugar que anima a los habitantes a jugar un rol clave en su construcción; tienen la posibilidad de transformarlo, creando un espacio público de intervención que pertenece a cada individuo y que crece en relación a la apropiación que estos hagan sobre él.
SEMBRANDO EDUCACION VERDE.Esta es la actitud que mejor describe al Parque Solar y la intervención establece tres objetivos principales para lograrlo. Primero, se buscar establecer una conexión entre Scilla y Bagnara Calabra como un circuito de transporte que simultáneamente conformará una reserva natural.En segundo lugar se busca potenciar el progreso en base a la educación cívica y la implementación de vegetación nativa y su reproducción como principales estrategias de diseño. Finalmente se utiliza esta vieja carretera como un detonador para el desarrollo en una extensión mucho mayor, en temas de energías renovables, nuevos sistemas de movilidad y desarrollo económico, entre otros.
PROJECT CONCEPT
Among all known renewable energies the most efficient and the only one of its kind capable of regenerating infinitely producing “zero environmental harm” is EDUCATION. This type of energy is an inexhaustible supply of knowledge that spreads from person to person covering vast extensions of area resulting in massive social, environmental and economical progress. This is why SOLAR PARK SOUTH should be a worldwide focal point in the development of GREEN EDUCATION.By this we mean, to edify a park where civic participation and nature are the main construction materials, as we promote that the A3 Salerno Highway between Scilla and Bagnara Calabra section transform into a Seeding Green Education Research Center. SOLAR PARK SOUTH is a place that encourages inhabitants to play a part in the construction as they have the possibility to transform it, creating an intervention Public space that belongs to everyone as it grows in relation to the appropriation of the individuals who act on it.
SEEDING GREEN EDUCATION is the attitude which best describes SOLAR PARK SOUTH, for that reason this intervention establishes three main goals to accomplish this purpose. First of all, to set up a connection between Scilla and Bagnara Calabra throughout a multi-mobility circuit that simultaneously will conform and protect what is established as natural reserve.Secondly to enhance progress in a very big extension of territory within simple overpowering approaches as civic education and the implementation of native vegetation reproduction as the main design strategy. Finally utilize this old highway as a detonator for the development of a larger extension of territory combining conflicting topics as renewable energy technologies, new mobility systems and economic development, all at once.
I have been to St Mary of Charity before. But that was many years ago.
Back then, I took three shots inside. I took 300 today.
St Mary is a huge church with a Victorian tower with the most amazing spire, which makes it visible from just about all over the town.
Faversham is best know as being home to Shepherd Neame brewery, it claims to the England's oldest surviving brewer.
The town sits on the edge of the Swale, with a large expanse of marshes and creeks between the town and open water.
We parked on wide Abbey Street, and while Jools went shopping, I walked along side the old brewery buildings to the church, with the tower and spire straight ahead along a street of terraced houses.
The church was open, though I got shouted at for not closing the glass door properly. This was from the group of people partaking in the weekly coffee morning.
The looked at me as I went round the large church, snapping details and marvelling at the single painted pillar.
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An extraordinary building comprising a medieval chancel and transepts, eighteenth-century nave and nineteenth-century tower and spire. Despite heavy-handed restorations of the nineteenth century - by Sir George Gilbert Scott and Ewan Christian in 1873 - which have resulted in loss of character, there is much to see. The fourteenth-century transepts are aisled - a most unusual feature in an ordinary parish church. The medieval authorities probably decided to invest in a lavish building to counteract the pulling power of the famous abbey which stood to the east. One of the pillars of the north transept has a series of contemporary small paintings of biblical scenes. You are advised to take a pair of binoculars to see them to advantage. The stalls in the chancel have misericords with a good selection of carved armrests, and there is also a crypt and an unforgettable east window of 1911.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Faversham+1
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THE PARISH AND TOWN OF FAVERSHAM.
CALLED, according to Lambarde, in Saxon, Fafresham, and Fafresfeld, in the record of Domesday, Favershant, and in some few others, Fefresham.
THE PARISH lies adjoining to the high London road southward at the 47th mile-stone, and extends to the creek on the opposite side of the town, the houses on the south side of which reach to within two hundred yards of the road, whence there is a good view into it.
The parish includes the north side of the London road from the above mile-stone westward, almost as far as the summit of Judde-hill, and the liberties of the town extend as far of this space westward as the rivulet in Ospringe street. Thus this parish intervenes, and entirely separates that part of Ospringe parish, at the northern boundary of it, in which are the storekeeper's house of the royal mills, and part of the offices and gardens belonging to it, and some of the mills themselves, and in the town likewise, Ospringe parish again intervening, there is a small part of West-street which is within that parish. At the east end of Ospringe-street, though within Faversham parish, and the liberties of the town, close to the high London road, there is a handsome new-built house, erected not many years since by Mr.Bonnick Lypyeatt, who resided in it till his death in 1789. He left two daughters his coheirs, one of whom married Mr.C.Brooke, of London, and the other Captain Gosselin, of the Life-guards. It is now occupied by John Mayor, esq.
¶The rest, or northern part of the parish lies very low, and adjoins the marshes, of which there is a very large tract. The country here is a fine extended level, the fields of a considerable size, and mostly unincumbered with trees or hedgerows, the lands being perhaps as fertile and as highly cultivated as any within this county, being part of that fruitful value extending almost from Sittingborne to Boughton Blean, so often taken notice of before. The grounds adjoining the upper parts of the town are mostly hop plantations, of a rich and kindly growth, but several of them have lately given place to those of fruit. About twenty years ago the cultivation of madder was introduced here, and many induced by the prospect of great gains, made plantations of it at a very considerable expence, and a mill was erected for the purpose of grinding the roots, but from various disappointments, and unforeseen disadvantages, the undertakers of it were deterred from prosecuting the growth of it, and I believe they have for some time entirely discontinued it.
At the south-east extremity of this parish, as well as in other particular parts of this county, there are several chalk-pits, the most noted of these being called Hegdale pit, of a great depth, which though narrow at the top, yet more inward are very capacious, having, as it were, distinct rooms, supported by pillars of chalk. Several opinions have been formed concerning the intent and use of them, some that they were formed by the digging of chalk, for the building of the abbey, as well as afterwards from time to time, for the manuring of the neighbouring lands; others that the English Saxons might dig them, for the same uses that the Germans did, from whom they were descended, who made use of them, according to Tacitus, as a refuge in winter, as a repository for their corn, and as a place of security, for themselves, their families, and their property, from the searches of their enemies. (fn. 1)
Near the west end of the bridge, opposite the storekeeper's house of the royal powder-mills, there is a strong chalybeate spring, which on trial has been proved to be nearly equal to those of Tunbridge Wells. (fn. 2)
In the year 1774, a most remarkable fish, called mola salviani, orthe sun-fish, was caught on Faversham Flats, which weighed about nineteen pounds and a half, and was about two feet diameter. It is a fish very rarely seen in our narrow seas. (fn. 3)
THE TOWN ITSELF, and so much of the parish as is within the bounds of the corporation, is subject to the liberties of it, and of the cinque ports, and is exempt from the jurisdiction of the hundred of Faversham; but the rest of the parish, together with the rectory, is within the liberties of that hundred, which has been always esteemed as appurtenant to the manor of Faversham.
Although from the several discoveries which have been made of Roman antiquities in this neighbourhood, it is plain, that it could not be unknown to that nation, during their stay in this island, yet there is no mention made of this place by any writer during that period; and it seems, even in the time of the Saxons, to have been a place of but little consequence, notwithstanding it was then a part of the royal demesnes, as appears by a charter of Cenulph, king of Mercia, anno 812, wherein it is stiled the king's little town of Fefresham; and in one of Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons and of Kent, anno 839, where it is said to be made, only, in villa de Faverisham. However, it was of note sufficient, perhaps as being the king's estate, even in the time of king Alfred, at the first division of this county into those smaller districts, to give name to the hundred in which it is situated. Lambarde, Camden, and Leland say, that king Athelstan held a parliament, or meeting of his wife menat Faversham, about the year 903, (no doubt for 930) in which several laws were enacted. (fn. 8)
FAVERSHAM continued part of the antient demesnes of the crown of this realm at the time of the taking of the general survey of Domesday, in which it is entered, under the general title of Terra Regis, that is, the king's antient demesne, as follows:
In the lath of Wivarlet, in Favreshant hundred, king William holds Favreshant. It was taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is seventeen carucates. In demesne there are two. There are thirty villeins, with forty borderers, having twenty-four carucates. There are five servants, and one mill of twenty shillings, and two acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of one hundred hogs, and of the pasture of the wood thirty-one shillings and two pence. A market of four pounds, and two salt-pits of three shillings and two-pence, and in the city of Canterbury, there are three houses of twenty-pence belonging to this manor. In the whole value, in the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth sixty pounds all but five shillings, and afterwards sixty pounds, and now it is worth four times twenty pounds.
¶The manor of Faversham, with the hundred appurtenant to it, remained part of the possessions of the crown till about the beginning of king Stephen's reign, when it was granted to William de Ipre, a foreigner, whom, for his faithful services against the empress Maud, the king, in his 7th year, created Earl of Kent; but within a few years afterwards, resolving to found an abbey here, he, with his queen Matilda, about the year 1147, exchanged the manor of Lillechirch, and other premises, for this manor and hundred, where they, at the latter end of that year, or the beginning of the year after, founded an abbey at a small distance from the town of Faversham, on the north-east side of it, for the space where Court, or Ab bey-street now stands was then unbuilt, and this was therefore, in the reign of Edward III. distinguished by the name of the New Town, as the rest of it, built before, was by that of the Old Town, and they appointed Clarembald, the prior of Bermondsey, to be abbot of this new foundation, which was dedicated to St. Saviour, and for their support, the king granted to him and the monks of it, twelve of whom had been removed with Clarembald for this purpose from Bermondsey, which priory was of the order of Clugni, the manor of Faversham, with its appurtenances, and other premises, in perpetual alms, with many liberties, as may be further seen in the charter itself. (fn. 9)
HE TOWN OF FAVERSHAM is within the limits of the cinque ports, being esteemed as a limb or member of the town of Dover, one of those ports. Of what antiquity these ports and antient towns are, when enfranchised, or at what times their members were annexed to them, has not been as yet, with any certainty, discovered; and, therefore, they are held to enjoy all their earliest liberties and privileges, as time out of mind, and by prescription.
It is, however certain, that at the time of king Edward the Consessor, the five ports were enfranchised with divers liberties, privileges, and customs, peculiar to themselves; for the better conducting of which they had the establishment of one grand court, called the court of Shipway, from its being almost always held at a place of that name near Hyth; in which the general business relating to the whole community was transacted before the warden, as principal and chief over them. Nevertheless, though they acted here jointly, like a county palatine as to the government, for the desence of the liberty of the whole, yet every particular corporation in each town acted severally and distinctly, according to its own privileges, charters, and customs within their own particular limits, without any controul or interference from this court, or the rest of the community. (fn. 20)
The five ports, as being from their situation most exposed to the depredations of enemies, were first incorporated for their own mutual defence, and were afterwards endowed with great privileges, for the public desence of the nation, and the king's service. The force they were enjoined to raise and keep in residence for this purpose was fifty-seven ships, properly furnished and accoutred for a certain number of days, to be ready at the king's summons, at their own charge, and if the state of affairs required their assistance any longer, they were paid by the crown. But because the expence was in after times found to be too burthensome for these five ports, several other towns were added as members to them, that they might bear a part of the charge, for which they were recompenced with a participation of their privileges and immunities. All which were confirmed to them by Magna Charta, by the name of the barons of the five ports, and again by one general charter by king Edward I. which, by inspeximus, has received confirmation, and sometimes additions, from most of the succeeding kings and queens of this realm.
¶FAVERSHAM, stiled both a town and a port at different times in antient records, isa corporation by prescription. In the oldest charter now remaining, which is that of the 36th year of king Henry III. wherein the members of it are stiled, according to the usual language of those times, barons, that is freemen, there is contained a confirmation of all their former antient rights and privileges. In the 42d year of the above reign, which is as far as can be traced by evidence, the jurisdiction of this town was then in a mayor or alderman, and twelve jurats. In a charter of Edward I. the barons of it are acknowledged to have done good services to him and his predecessors, kings of England; and in the 21st year of that reign, there is an entry of the mayor and jurats assembling in their hallmote, or portmote-court, as it is elsewhere called, together with the lord abbot's steward, and there sealing a fine with the town's seal, of a messuage and garden in Faversham, according to the use and custom of the court, by which it is evident, that this court was of some antiquity at that time. (fn. 21)
Faversham is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Ospringe.
The church, which stands close to the east side of the town, was dedicated to the assumption of our lady of Faversham. It is built in the form of a cross, of flints, with quoins of ashler stone. It had, until 1755, when it was taken down, a large square castellated tower in the middle of it, and there remains now another low tower at the north side of the west front, upon which is erected a frame of timber, covered with shingles. So long ago as king Henry the VIIth.'s reign, there seems to have been no steeple to this church, for in 1464, Edward Thomasson, of this town, gave sixty pounds towards the edifying of a new one to it; (fn. 31) and of later time, James Lawson, esq. a wealthy inhabitant of this town, who died in 1794, gave by his will 1000l. for the same purpose, with this sum, together with 500l. given by the corporation, and the remainder payable by a rate, a steeple, seventy-three feet high above the tower, with pinnacles at each corner of it, on the plan of St. Dunstan's in the East, has been erected, and is now nearly compleated, at the expence of 2500l.
Behind the tower, within the outer walls, is a strong timbered room, formerly called the tresory, in which, before the reformation, were carefully deposited the goods and ornaments of the church; over it was the chamber for the sextons. On the south side of the west front is a room, formerly open to the church, in which was taught reading and writing; under it is a neat chapel, with stone arches, supported by three pillars in the middle. Over the south porch there is another stone room, the window of which is grated with strong iron bars.
Mr. Henry Hatch, whose extensive charity to this town has already been mentioned, by will in 1533, gave a sum of money, at the discretion of the mayor, and his brethren, in making a new jewel-house for this church.
In 1440 there were placed in it five new bells, and in 1459 a sixth was added; these remained till 1749, when they were cast into a new peal of eight.
The church seems to have been built in the latter end of the reign of Edward I. or the beginning of the reign of Edward II. by a silver penny of one of those kings being found under the basis of one of the piers, which supported the middle tower. In the east window of the great chancel, were some time since remaining two shields of arms, viz. Gules, two lions passant-guardant, or a label of five points, azure; and Argent, a lion rampant, sable, within a bordure of the second, bezante.
In the year 1754, the body of the church, as well as the roof of it, on a survey, being deemed in a dangerous state, a faculty was obtained to pull it down, which was accordingly done, under the plan and directions of Mr. George Dance, of London, architect, at the expence of 2300l. besides which, 400l. was afterwards expended in an organ, and 100l. more in other ornaments, and ninety pounds in improving the great chancel, which through age was become very unsightly; so that the whole of it is now made equal to, if not the most elegant and spacious, of any parish church in this county, and is extensive and spacious enough to afford convenient room for all the parishioners of it.
¶When this church was new built, and the body and isles new paved, the grave-stones, many of which were antient, with brasses on them, were removed from the places where they lay, to other open and consipicuous parts of it. Among the monuments were those for Henry Hatche, merchant adventurer, 1533; Thomas Mendfield, 1614, John Fagg, esq. 1508, and one for Thomas Southouse, esq. 1558, who wrote the Monas tion Favershamiense. Both monuments and epitaphs are by far too numerous to insert in this place, they may be found at large in Weever's Funeral Monuments, in Lewis's Appendix to his History of Faversham Abbey, and in Harris's History of Kent. Besides which there is in the Appendix to Jacob's History of Faversham, a chronological list of such persons as have been known to have been buried in it.
This church measures from east to west, including the chancel, one hundred and sixty feet, the width of the body sixty five feet; the length of the isles from north to south one hundred and twenty-four feet, and their width forty-six feet.
Before the reformation, besides the high altar in the great chancel, there were two chapels, one dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the other to St. Thomas, and there were several altars in the isles and chancels.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
I was in the area, checking up on the Heath Spotted Orchids, and the church was a five minute drive away, in the grounds of a former country house.
I park at the church and find it locked, as expected, but there were directions to a keyholder nearby, walking into the cobbled squares and converted estate buildings now executive housing.
I ring the bell: nothing
I ring again: nothing
I use the knocker: dog barks. Dog attacks the door.
There is angry voices. Or voice. There was the sound of the dog being put into a side room, and the struggle to close the door.
The front door opened: yes?
Can I have the church key, please?
Not sure if I still have it.
Why'd you want it?
To photograph the interior.
Who're with?
I'm with no one, I am photographing all parish churches in the county, and would like to do this one. I showed him my driving licence which should say under job title: obsessive and church crawler.
He seemed satisfied, and let me have the key.
Phew.
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Substantially rebuilt after a fire of 1598. The welcoming interior displays no chancel arch, although the doorways in the arcade show where the medieval rood screen ran the width of the church. The striking east window was designed by Wallace Wood in 1954. There is a good aumbry and piscina nearby. To the north of the chancel stands the excellent tomb chest of Sir John Tufton (d. 1624). The arcade into which it is built was lowered to allow a semi-circular alabaster ceiling to be inserted to set the composition off. Because it is completely free-standing it is one of the easiest tomb chests in Kent to study, with five sons kneeling on the south side and four daughters on the north . In addition there are complicated coats of arms and an inscription which records the rebuilding of the church by Tufton after the fire. On top of the chest lie Sir John and his wife, with their son Nicholas kneeling between their heads. Much of the monument is still covered with its original paint. The organ, which stands in the south aisle, may be the instrument on which Sir Arthur Sullivan composed 'The Lost Chord'. It originally stood in Hothfield Place where Sullivan was a frequent guest.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Hothfield
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HOTHFIELD
IS the next parish northward from Great Chart, and is so called from the bothe, or heath within it. The greatest part of this parish lies within the hundred of Chart and Longbridge, and the remainder in that of Calehill. It is in the division of East Kent.
THE PARISH of Hothfield lies a little more than two miles from Ashford north-westward, the high road from which towards Lenham and Maidstone goes through it over Hothfield heath. It contains about 1250 acres, and fifty houses, the rents of it are about 1300l. per annum. It is not a pleasant, nor is it accounted a healthy situation, owing probably to the many low and watry lands in and about it. The river Stour, which rises at Lenham, runs along the southern side of the parish, which is watered likewise by several small streams, which rise about Charing and Westwell, from under the chalk hills, and join the Stour here. The heath, which contains near one half of the parish, consists mostly of a deep sand, and has much peat on it, which is continually dug by the poor for firing. On the east and west sides of the heath, the latter being called West-street, are two hamlets of houses, which form the scattered village of Hothfield. The Place-house stands on a hill, at a small distance from the corner of the heath southward, with some small plantations of trees about it, forming a principal object to the country round it. It is a square mansion, built of Portland stone, by the late earl of Thanet, on the scite of the antient mansion, close to the church; it has a good prospect round it. The adjoining grass grounds are extensive, and well laid out for the view over them; the water, which rises at no great distance from the house, becomes very soon a tolerable sized stream, and running on in sight of it, joins the Stour a little above Worting mill; these grass lands are fertile and good fatting land, like those mentioned before, near Godington, in Great Chart. The parsonage house, which is a neat dwelling of white stucco, stands at the southern corner of the heath, at the foot of the hill, adjoining the Place grounds, near West-street. Between the heath and Potter's corner, towards Ashford, the soil begins to approach much of the quarry stone.
Though the land in the parish is naturally poor, it is rendered productive by the chalk and lime procured from the down hills. The inhabitants have an unlimited right of commoning with those of the adjoining parish of Westwell, to upwards of five hundred acres of common, which affords them the means of keeping a cow and their poultry, which, with the liberty of digging peat, draws a number of certificated poor to reside here. There is not one dissenter in the parish.
Jack Cade, the noted rebel, in Henry the VI.th's reign, though generally supposed to be taken by Alexander Iden, esq. the sheriff, in a field belonging to Ripple manor, in the adjoining parish of Westwell, was discovered, as some say, in a field in this parish, still named from him, Jack Cade's field, now laid open with the rest of the grounds adjoining to Hothfieldplace.
The plant caryophyllata montena, or water avens, which is a very uncommon one, grows in a wood near Barber's hill, in this parish.
THE MANOR OF HOTHFIELD seems, in very early times, to have had the same owners as the barony of Chilham, and to have continued so, for a considerable length of time after the descendants of Fulbert de Dover were become extinct here. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, who in the 5th year of king Edward II. had a grant of this manor as well as of Chilham in see, appears to have held this manor of Hothfield by grand sergeantry of the archbishop, and accordingly, in the 8th year of it, at the enthroning of archbishop Walter Reynolds, he made his claim, and was allowed to perform the office of chamberlain for that day, and to serve up the water, for the archbishop to wash his hands; for which his fees were, the furniture of his bedchamber, and the bason and towel made use of for that purpose; (fn. 1) and in the next year he obtained of the king, a charter of free-warren for his demesne lands within this manor among others. After this the manor of Hothfield continued to be held by the like service, and continued in the same owners as that of Chilham, (fn. 2) down to Thomas lord Roos, who became entitled to the see of it, who for his attachment to the house of Lancaster, was, with others, attainted, in the 1st year of king Edward IV.'s reign, and his lands confiscated to the crown. But Margaret his mother, being possessed of it for her life, afterwards married Roger Wentworth, esq. whom she survived, and died possessed of it in the 18th year of that reign; upon which, by reason of the above attaint, the crown became entitled to it, the inquisition for which was found in the 4th year of that reign; immediately after which, the king granted it to Sir John Fogge, of Repton, who was comptroller of his household and one of his privy council, for his life. On king Richard III.'s accession to the crown, he took shelter in the abbey of Westminster, from whence he was invited by the king, who in the presence of a numerous assembly gave him his hand, and bid him be confident that from thenceforward he was sure to him in affection. This is rather mentioned, as divers chronicles have erroneously mentioned that he was an attorney, whom this prince had pardoned for forgery. He died possessed of it in the 17th year of Henry VII. where it remained till Henry VIII. granted it, at the very latter end of his reign, to John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, in Sussex, whose lands were disgavelled by the acts of 2 and 3 Edward VI. who afterwards resided at Hothfield, where he kept his shrievalty in the 3d year of queen Elizabeth. He was descended from ancestors who were originally written Toketon, and held lands in Rainham, in this county, as early as king John's reign; (fn. 3) one of whom was seated at Northiam, in Sussex, in king Richard the IId.'s reign, at which time they were written as at present, Tufton, and they continued there till John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, before-mentioned, removed hither. He died in 1567, and was buried in this church, leaving one son John Tufton, who resided at Hothfield-place, and in July, in the 16th year of queen Elizabeth, anno 1573, entertained the queen here, in her progress through this county. In the 17th year of that reign he was sheriff, and being a person of eminent repure and abilities, he was knighted by king James, in his 1st year, and created a baronet at the first institution of that order, on June 19, 1611. He married Olimpia, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. of Sileham, in Rainham, by whom he had three daughters; and secondly Christian, daughter and coheir of Sir Humphry Brown, a justice of the common pleas. He died in 1624, and was buried in this church, having had by her several sons and daughters. Of the former, Nicholas the eldest, succeeded him in title and estates. Sir Humphry was of Bobbing and the Mote, in Maidstone, and Sir William was of Vinters, in Boxley, both baronets, of whom further mention has already been made in the former parts of this history.
Sir Nicholas Tufton, the eldest son, was by letters patent, dated Nov. 1, anno 2 Charles I. created lord Tufton, baron of Tufton, in Sussex; and on August 5, in the 4th year of that reign, earl of the Isle of Thanet, in this county. He had four sons and nine daughters; of the former, John succeeded him in honors, and Cecil, was father of Sir Charles Tufton, of Twickenham, in Middlesex. John, the eldest son, second earl of Thanet, married in 1629 Margaret, eldest daughter and coheir of Richard, earl of Dorset, by his wife the lady Anne Clifford, sole daughter and heir of George, earl of Cumberland, and baroness of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy, by which marriage these tithes descended afterwards to their issue. In the time of the commonwealth, after king Charles the 1st.'s death, he was, in 1654, appointed sheriff, and however inconsistent it might be to his rank, yet he served the office. He left six sons and six daughters, and was succeeded by Nicholas his eldest son, third earl of Thanet, who by the deaths of his mother in 1676, and of his cousin-german Alethea, then wife of Edward Hungerford, esq. who died s. p. in 1678, he became heir to her, and sole heir to his grandmother Anne, lady Clifford, and consequently to the baronies of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy; dying s. p. he was succeeded as earl of Thanet and lord Clifford, &c. by his next brother John, who, on his mother's death, succeeded likewise by her will to her large estates in Yorkshire and Westmoreland, and to the hereditary in sheriffdoms of the latter and of Cumberland likewise, for it frequently happened in these hereditary sheriffdoms that female heirs became possessed of them, and consequently were sheriffs of those districts; but this was not at all an unusual thing, there being many frequent instances of women bearing that office, as may be seen in most of the books in which any mention is made of it, some instances of which the reader may see in the differtation on the office of sheriff, in vol. i. of this history. That part of their office which was incompatible for a woman to exercise, was always executed by a deputy, or shyre-clerk, in their name. But among the Harleian MSS. is a very remarkable note taken from Mr. Attorney-general Noys reading in Lincoln's inn, in 1632, in which, upon a point, whether the office of a justice of a forest might be executed by a woman; it was said, that Margaret, countess of Richmond, mother to king Henry VII. was a justice of peace; that the lady Bartlet, perhaps meant for Berkley, was also made a justice of the peace by queen Mary, in Gloucestershire; and that in Suffolk one ..... Rowse, a woman, did usually fit upon the bench at assizes and sessions among other justices, gladio cincta. John, earl of Thanet, died unmarried, as did his next brother earl Richard, so that the titles devolved to Thomas Tufton, who became the sixth earl of Thanet, and lord Clifford, which latter title was decreed to him by the house of peers in 1691. He left surviving issue five daughters and coheirs, the eldest of whom, Catherine, married Ed. Watson, viscount Sondes, son and heir of Lewis, earl of Rockingham; and the four others married likewise into noble families. He died at Hothfield in 1729, having by his will bequeathed several legacies to charitable purposes, especially towards the augmentation of small vicarages and curacies. He died without male issue, so that the titles of earl of Thanet and baron Tufton, and of baronet, descended to his nephew Sackville Tufton, eldest surviving son of his brother Sackville Tufton, fifth son of John, second earl of Thanet. But the title of baroness Clifford, which included those of Westmoreland and Vescy, upon the death of Thomas, earl of Thanet, without male issue, became in abeyance between his daughters and coheirs above-mentioned, and in 1734, king George II. confirmed that barony to Margaret, his third surviving daughter and coheir, married to Thomas Coke, lord Lovel, afterwards created earl of Leicester, which title is now again in abeyance by his death s. p. Which Sackville Tufton died in 1721, leaving Sackville the seventh earl of Thanet, whose eldest son of the same name succeeded him as eighth earl of Thanet, and rebuilt the present mansion of Hothfield-place, in which he afterwards resided, but being obliged to travel to Italy for his health, he died there at Nice in 1786, and was brought to England, and buried in the family vault at Rainham, in this county, where his several ancestors, earls of Thanet, with their countesses, and other branches of the family, lie deposited, from the time of their first accession to that title. He married Mary, daughter of lord John Philip Sackville, sister of the present duke of Dorset, by whom he had five sons and two daughters, Elizabeth; and Caroline married to Joseph Foster Barham, esq. Of the former, Sackville, born in 1769, succeeded him in honors; Charles died unmarried; John is M. P. for Appleby; Henry is M. P. for Rochester, and William. He was succeeded by his eldest son, the present right hon. Sackville Tufton, earl of Thanet, baron Tufton, lord of the honor of Skipton, in Craven, and baronet, and hereditary sheriff of the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, who is the present possessor of this manor and seat, and resides here, and is at present unmarried. (fn. 4)
The antient arms of Tufton were, Argent, on a pale, sable, an eagle displayed of the field; which coat they continued to bear till Nicholas Tufton, the first earl of Thanet, on his obtaining that earldom, altered it to that of Sable, an eagle displayed, ermine, within a bordure, argent; which coat was confirmed by Sir William Segar, garter, in 1628, and has been borne by his descendants to the present time. The present earl of Thanet bears for his coat of arms that last-mentioned; for his crest, On a wreath, a sea lion, seiant, proper; and for his supporters, Two eagles, their wings expanded, ermine.
SWINFORT, or Swinford, which is its more proper name, is a manor in this parish, lying in the southern part of it, near the river Stour, and probably took its name from some ford in former times over it here. However that be, it had formerly proprietors, who took their name from it; but they were never of any eminence, nor can I discover when they became extinct here; only that in king Henry V.'s reign it was in the possession of Bridges, descended from John atte Bregg, one of those eminent persons, whose effigies, kneeling and habited in armour, was painted in the window often mentioned before, in Great Chart church; and in this family the manor of Swinford continued till the latter end of king James I.'s reign, when it passed by sale from one of them to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, whose son John, earl of Thanet, before the 20th year of that reign, exchanged it for other lands, which lay more convenient to him, with his near neighbour Nicholas Toke, esq. of Godinton, in which family and name it has continued down, in like manner as that feat, to Nicholas Roundell Toke, esq. now of Godinton, the present possessor of it. A court baron is held for this manor.
FAUSLEY, or FOUSLEY, as it is now usually called, is the last manor to be described in this parish; its more antient name was Foughleslee, or, as it was usually pronounced, Faulesley; which name it gave to owners who in early times possessed and resided at it. John de Foughleslee, of Hothfield, was owner of it in the second year of king Richard II. and in his descendants this manor seems to have continued till about the beginning of queen Elizabeth's reign, when it passed by sale to Drury; from which name, at the latter end of it, this manor was conveyed to Paris, who immediately afterwards alienated it to Bull, who soon afterwards reconveyed it back again to the same family, whence, in the next reign of king James I. it was sold to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, in whose successors, earls of Thanet, it has continued down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, the present owner of it.
Charities.
RICHARD PARIS, by deed in 1577, gave for the use of the poor, a rent charge of 16s. per annum, out of land called Hanvilles, in this parish; the trustees of which have been long ago deceased, and no new ones appointed since.
THOMAS KIPPS, gent. of Canterbury, by will in 1680, gave for the use of the same, an annual rent charge of 1l. out of lards in Great Chart.
RICHARD MADOCKE, clothier, of this parish, by will in 1596, ordered that the 11l. which he had lent to the parishioners of Hothfield, towards the rebuilding of their church, should, when repaid, be as a stock to the poor of this parish for ever.
SIR JOHN TUFTON, knight and baronet, and Nicholas his son, first earl of Thanet, by their wills in 1620 and in 1630, gave certain sums of money, with which were purchased eight acres of land in the parish of Kingsnoth, of the annual produce of 10l.
DR. JOHN GRANDORGE, by deed in 1713, gave a house and land in Newington, near Hythe, of the annual produce of 7l. which premises are vested in the earl of Thanet.
THOMAS, EARL OF THANET, and SACKVILLE TUFTON. Esq. grandfather of the present earl, by their deeds in 1720 and 1726, gave for a school mistress to teach 24 poor children, a rent charge and a house and two gardens, in Hothfield, the produce in money 20l. The premises were vested in Sir Penyston Lambe and Dr. John Grandorge, long since deceased; since which the trust has not been renewed; and the original writings are in the earl of Thanet's possession.
Such of the above benefactions as have been contributed by the Tufton family, have been ordered by their descendants to be distributed annually by the steward of Hothfield-place for the time being, without the interference of the parish officers, to such as received no relief from this parish; the family looking upon these rather as a private munisicence intended to continue under their direction.
The poor annually relieved are about twenty-five, casually as many.
HOTHFIELD is situated within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
¶The church, which is small, is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of three isles and a chancel, having a low spire steeple, covered with shingles at the west end, in which are five bells, and though it stands on a hill, is yet very damp. There is not any painted glass in the windows of it. On the north side in it, is a monument of curious workmanship, having the figures of a man and woman, in full proportion, lying at length on it; at three corners of it are those of two sons and one daughter, kneeling, weeping, all in white marble; round the edges is an inscription, for Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, and Olympia his wife, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. On the monument are the arms of Tufton, with quarterings and impalements; on the sides are two inscriptions, one, that he re-edified this church after it was burnt, at his own charge, and under it made a vault for himself and his posterity, and after that he had lived eighty years, departed this life; the other enumerating his good qualities, and saying that by his will he gave perpetual legacies to this parish and that of Rainham. This monument is parted off from the north isle by a strong partition of wooden balustrades, seven feet high. The vault underneath is at most times several feet deep with water, and the few coffins which were remaining in it were some years since removed to the vaults at Rainham, where this family have been deposited ever since. On the north side of the chancel is a smaller one, formerly called St. Margaret's chapel, now shut up, and made no use of. In the south isle is a memorial for Rebecca, wife of William Henman, esq. obt. 1739, and Anna-Rebecca, their daughter, obt. 1752; arms, A lion, between three mascles, impaling a bend, cotized, engrailed. This church, which is a rectory, was always esteemed an appendage to the manor, and has passed accordingly, in like manner with it, down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, lord of the manor of Hothfield, the present patron of it.
This rectory is valued in the king's books at 17l. 5s. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 14s. 6d.
There was a pension of ten shillings paid from it to the college of Wye. In 1588 here were communicants one hundred and ninety-three, and it was valued at eighty pounds. In 1640, communicants one hundred and ninety, and valued at only sixty pounds per annum. There is a modus of two pence an acre of the pasture lands in the parish. There are twelve acres of glebe. It is now worth about one hundred and twenty pounds per annum.
Richard Hall, of this parish, by will in 1524, ordered that his feoffees should enfeoffe certain honest persons in his house and garden here, set beside the pelery, to the intent that the yearly serme of them should go to the maintenance of the rode-light within the church.
This church was burnt down in the reign of king James I. and was rebuilt at the sole expence of Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, who died in 1624. His descendant Thomas, earl of Thanet, who died in 1729, gave the present altar-piece, some of the pewing, and the pulpit.
A couple of weeks back, we met a couple in a pub in Canterbury, and they had been out exploring the city and said they were disappointed by the cathedral.
Not enough labels they said.
That not withstanding, I thought it had been some time since I last had been, so decided to revisit, see the pillars of Reculver church in the crypt and take the big lens for some detail shots.
We arrived just after ten, so the cathedral was pretty free of other guests, just a few guides waiting for groups and couples to guide.
I went round with the 50mm first, before concentrating on the medieval glass which is mostly on the south side.
But as you will see, the lens picked up so much more.
Thing is, there is always someone interesting to talk to, or wants to talk to you. As I went around, I spoke with about three guides about the project and things I have seen in the churches of the county, and the wonderful people I have met. And that continued in the cathedral.
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St Augustine, the first Archbishop of Canterbury, arrived on the coast of Kent as a missionary to England in 597AD. He came from Rome, sent by Pope Gregory the Great. It is said that Gregory had been struck by the beauty of Angle slaves he saw for sale in the city market and despatched Augustine and some monks to convert them to Christianity. Augustine was given a church at Canterbury (St Martin’s, after St Martin of Tours, still standing today) by the local King, Ethelbert whose Queen, Bertha, a French Princess, was already a Christian.This building had been a place of worship during the Roman occupation of Britain and is the oldest church in England still in use. Augustine had been consecrated a bishop in France and was later made an archbishop by the Pope. He established his seat within the Roman city walls (the word cathedral is derived from the the Latin word for a chair ‘cathedra’, which is itself taken from the Greek ‘kathedra’ meaning seat.) and built the first cathedral there, becoming the first Archbishop of Canterbury. Since that time, there has been a community around the Cathedral offering daily prayer to God; this community is arguably the oldest organisation in the English speaking world. The present Archbishop, The Most Revd Justin Welby, is 105th in the line of succession from Augustine. Until the 10th century, the Cathedral community lived as the household of the Archbishop. During the 10th century, it became a formal community of Benedictine monks, which continued until the monastery was dissolved by King Henry VIII in 1540. Augustine’s original building lies beneath the floor of the Nave – it was extensively rebuilt and enlarged by the Saxons, and the Cathedral was rebuilt completely by the Normans in 1070 following a major fire. There have been many additions to the building over the last nine hundred years, but parts of the Quire and some of the windows and their stained glass date from the 12th century. By 1077, Archbishop Lanfranc had rebuilt it as a Norman church, described as “nearly perfect”. A staircase and parts of the North Wall – in the area of the North West transept also called the Martyrdom – remain from that building.
Canterbury’s role as one of the world’s most important pilgrimage centres in Europe is inextricably linked to the murder of its most famous Archbishop, Thomas Becket, in 1170. When, after a long lasting dispute, King Henry II is said to have exclaimed “Who will rid me of this turbulent priest?”, four knights set off for Canterbury and murdered Thomas in his own cathedral. A sword stroke was so violent that it sliced the crown off his skull and shattered the blade’s tip on the pavement. The murder took place in what is now known as The Martyrdom. When shortly afterwards, miracles were said to take place, Canterbury became one of Europe’s most important pilgrimage centres.
The work of the Cathedral as a monastery came to an end in 1540, when the monastery was closed on the orders of King Henry VIII. Its role as a place of prayer continued – as it does to this day. Once the monastery had been suppressed, responsibility for the services and upkeep was given to a group of clergy known as the Chapter of Canterbury. Today, the Cathedral is still governed by the Dean and four Canons, together (in recent years) with four lay people and the Archdeacon of Ashford. During the Civil War of the 1640s, the Cathedral suffered damage at the hands of the Puritans; much of the medieval stained glass was smashed and horses were stabled in the Nave. After the Restoration in 1660, several years were spent in repairing the building. In the early 19th Century, the North West tower was found to be dangerous, and, although it dated from Lanfranc’s time, it was demolished in the early 1830s and replaced by a copy of the South West tower, thus giving a symmetrical appearance to the west end of the Cathedral. During the Second World War, the Precincts were heavily damaged by enemy action and the Cathedral’s Library was destroyed. Thankfully, the Cathedral itself was not seriously harmed, due to the bravery of the team of fire watchers, who patrolled the roofs and dealt with the incendiary bombs dropped by enemy bombers. Today, the Cathedral stands as a place where prayer to God has been offered daily for over 1,400 years; nearly 2,000 Services are held each year, as well as countless private prayers from individuals. The Cathedral offers a warm welcome to all visitors – its aim is to show people Jesus, which we do through the splendour of the building as well as the beauty of the worship.
www.canterbury-cathedral.org/heritage/history/cathedral-h...
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History of the cathedral
THE ORIGIN of a Christian church on the scite of the present cathedral, is supposed to have taken place as early as the Roman empire in Britain, for the use of the antient faithful and believing soldiers of their garrison here; and that Augustine found such a one standing here, adjoining to king Ethelbert's palace, which was included in the king's gift to him.
This supposition is founded on the records of the priory of Christ-church, (fn. 1) concurring with the common opinion of almost all our historians, who tell us of a church in Canterbury, which Augustine found standing in the east part of the city, which he had of king Ethelbert's gift, which after his consecration at Arles, in France, he commended by special dedication to the patronage of our blessed Saviour. (fn. 2)
According to others, the foundations only of an old church formerly built by the believing Romans, were left here, on which Augustine erected that, which he afterwards dedicated to out Saviour; (fn. 3) and indeed it is not probable that king Ethelbert should have suffered the unsightly ruins of a Christian church, which, being a Pagan, must have been very obnoxious to him, so close to his palace, and supposing these ruins had been here, would he not have suffered them to be repaired, rather than have obliged his Christian queen to travel daily to such a distance as St. Martin's church, or St. Pancrace's chapel, for the performance of her devotions.
Some indeed have conjectured that the church found by St. Augustine, in the east part of the city, was that of St.Martin, truly so situated; and urge in favor of it, that there have not been at any time any remains of British or Roman bricks discovered scattered in or about this church of our Saviour, those infallible, as Mr. Somner stiles them, signs of antiquity, and so generally found in buildings, which have been erected on, or close to the spot where more antient ones have stood. But to proceed, king Ethelbert's donation to Augustine was made in the year 596, who immediately afterwards went over to France, and was consecrated a bishop at Arles, and after his return, as soon as he had sufficiently finished a church here, whether built out of ruins or anew, it matters not, he exercised his episcopal function in the dedication of it, says the register of Christ-church, to the honor of Christ our Saviour; whence it afterwards obtained the name of Christ-church. (fn. 4)
From the time of Augustine for the space of upwards of three hundred years, there is not found in any printed or manuscript chronicle, the least mention of the fabric of this church, so that it is probable nothing befell it worthy of being recorded; however it should be mentioned, that during that period the revenues of it were much increased, for in the leiger books of it there are registered more than fifty donations of manors, lands, &c. so large and bountiful, as became the munificence of kings and nobles to confer. (fn. 5)
It is supposed, especially as we find no mention made of any thing to the contrary, that the fabric of this church for two hundred years after Augustine's time, met with no considerable molestations; but afterwards, the frequent invasions of the Danes involved both the civil and ecclesiastical state of this country in continual troubles and dangers; in the confusion of which, this church appears to have run into a state of decay; for when Odo was promoted to the archbishopric, in the year 938, the roof of it was in a ruinous condition; age had impaired it, and neglect had made it extremely dangerous; the walls of it were of an uneven height, according as it had been more or less decayed, and the roof of the church seemed ready to fall down on the heads of those underneath. All this the archbishop undertook to repair, and then covered the whole church with lead; to finish which, it took three years, as Osbern tells us, in the life of Odo; (fn. 6) and further, that there was not to be found a church of so large a size, capable of containing so great a multitude of people, and thus, perhaps, it continued without any material change happening to it, till the year 1011; a dismal and fatal year to this church and city; a time of unspeakable confusion and calamities; for in the month of September that year, the Danes, after a siege of twenty days, entered this city by force, burnt the houses, made a lamentable slaughter of the inhabitants, rifled this church, and then set it on fire, insomuch, that the lead with which archbishop Odo had covered it, being melted, ran down on those who were underneath. The sull story of this calamity is given by Osbern, in the life of archbishop Odo, an abridgement of which the reader will find below. (fn. 7)
The church now lay in ruins, without a roof, the bare walls only standing, and in this desolate condition it remained as long as the fury of the Danes prevailed, who after they had burnt the church, carried away archbishop Alphage with them, kept him in prison seven months, and then put him to death, in the year 1012, the year after which Living, or Livingus, succeeded him as archbishop, though it was rather in his calamities than in his seat of dignity, for he too was chained up by the Danes in a loathsome dungeon for seven months, before he was set free, but he so sensibly felt the deplorable state of this country, which he foresaw was every day growing worse and worse, that by a voluntary exile, he withdrew himself out of the nation, to find some solitary retirement, where he might bewail those desolations of his country, to which he was not able to bring any relief, but by his continual prayers. (fn. 8) He just outlived this storm, returned into England, and before he died saw peace and quientness restored to this land by king Canute, who gaining to himself the sole sovereignty over the nation, made it his first business to repair the injuries which had been done to the churches and monasteries in this kingdom, by his father's and his own wars. (fn. 9)
As for this church, archbishop Ægelnoth, who presided over it from the year 1020 to the year 1038, began and finished the repair, or rather the rebuilding of it, assisted in it by the royal munificence of the king, (fn. 10) who in 1023 presented his crown of gold to this church, and restored to it the port of Sandwich, with its liberties. (fn. 11) Notwithstanding this, in less than forty years afterwards, when Lanfranc soon after the Norman conquest came to the see, he found this church reduced almost to nothing by fire, and dilapidations; for Eadmer says, it had been consumed by a third conflagration, prior to the year of his advancement to it, in which fire almost all the antient records of the privileges of it had perished. (fn. 12)
The same writer has given us a description of this old church, as it was before Lanfranc came to the see; by which we learn, that at the east end there was an altar adjoining to the wall of the church, of rough unhewn stone, cemented with mortar, erected by archbishop Odo, for a repository of the body of Wilfrid, archbishop of York, which Odo had translated from Rippon hither, giving it here the highest place; at a convenient distance from this, westward, there was another altar, dedicated to Christ our Saviour, at which divine service was daily celebrated. In this altar was inclosed the head of St. Swithin, with many other relics, which archbishop Alphage brought with him from Winchester. Passing from this altar westward, many steps led down to the choir and nave, which were both even, or upon the same level. At the bottom of the steps, there was a passage into the undercroft, under all the east part of the church. (fn. 13) At the east end of which, was an altar, in which was inclosed, according to old tradition, the head of St. Furseus. From hence by a winding passage, at the west end of it, was the tomb of St. Dunstan, (fn. 14) but separated from the undercroft by a strong stone wall; over the tomb was erected a monument, pyramid wife, and at the head of it an altar, (fn. 15) for the mattin service. Between these steps, or passage into the undercroft and the nave, was the choir, (fn. 16) which was separated from the nave by a fair and decent partition, to keep off the crowds of people that usually were in the body of the church, so that the singing of the chanters in the choir might not be disturbed. About the middle of the length of the nave, were two towers or steeples, built without the walls; one on the south, and the other on the north side. In the former was the altar of St. Gregory, where was an entrance into the church by the south door, and where law controversies and pleas concerning secular matters were exercised. (fn. 17) In the latter, or north tower, was a passage for the monks into the church, from the monastery; here were the cloysters, where the novices were instructed in their religious rules and offices, and where the monks conversed together. In this tower was the altar of St. Martin. At the west end of the church was a chapel, dedicated to the blessed Virgin Mary, to which there was an ascent by steps, and at the east end of it an altar, dedicated to her, in which was inclosed the head of St. Astroburta the Virgin; and at the western part of it was the archbishop's pontifical chair, made of large stones, compacted together with mortar; a fair piece of work, and placed at a convenient distance from the altar, close to the wall of the church. (fn. 18)
To return now to archbishop Lanfranc, who was sent for from Normandy in 1073, being the fourth year of the Conqueror's reign, to fill this see, a time, when a man of a noble spirit, equal to the laborious task he was to undertake, was wanting especially for this church; and that he was such, the several great works which were performed by him, were incontestable proofs, as well as of his great and generous mind. At the first sight of the ruinous condition of this church, says the historian, the archbishop was struck with astonishment, and almost despaired of seeing that and the monastery re edified; but his care and perseverance raised both in all its parts anew, and that in a novel and more magnificent kind and form of structure, than had been hardly in any place before made use of in this kingdom, which made it a precedent and pattern to succeeding structures of this kind; (fn. 19) and new monasteries and churches were built after the example of it; for it should be observed, that before the coming of the Normans most of the churches and monasteries in this kingdom were of wood; (all the monasteries in my realm, says king Edgar, in his charter to the abbey of Malmesbury, dated anno 974, to the outward sight are nothing but worm-eaten and rotten timber and boards) but after the Norman conquest, such timber fabrics grew out of use, and gave place to stone buildings raised upon arches; a form of structure introduced into general use by that nation, and in these parts surnished with stone from Caen, in Normandy. (fn. 20) After this fashion archbishop Lanfranc rebuilt the whole church from the foundation, with the palace and monastery, the wall which encompassed the court, and all the offices belonging to the monastery within the wall, finishing the whole nearly within the compass of seven years; (fn. 21) besides which, he furnished the church with ornaments and rich vestments; after which, the whole being perfected, he altered the name of it, by a dedication of it to the Holy Trinity; whereas, before it was called the church of our Saviour, or Christ-church, and from the above time it bore (as by Domesday book appears) the name of the church of the Holy Trinity; this new church being built on the same spot on which the antient one stood, though on a far different model.
After Lanfranc's death, archbishop Anselm succeeded in the year 1093, to the see of Canterbury, and must be esteemed a principal benefactor to this church; for though his time was perplexed with a continued series of troubles, of which both banishment and poverty made no small part, which in a great measure prevented him from bestowing that cost on his church, which he would otherwise have done, yet it was through his patronage and protection, and through his care and persuasions, that the fabric of it, begun and perfected by his predecessor, became enlarged and rose to still greater splendor. (fn. 22)
In order to carry this forward, upon the vacancy of the priory, he constituted Ernulph and Conrad, the first in 1104, the latter in 1108, priors of this church; to whose care, being men of generous and noble minds, and of singular skill in these matters, he, during his troubles, not only committed the management of this work, but of all his other concerns during his absence.
Probably archbishop Anselm, on being recalled from banishment on king Henry's accession to the throne, had pulled down that part of the church built by Lanfranc, from the great tower in the middle of it to the east end, intending to rebuild it upon a still larger and more magnificent plan; when being borne down by the king's displeasure, he intrusted prior Ernulph with the work, who raised up the building with such splendor, says Malmesbury, that the like was not to be seen in all England; (fn. 23) but the short time Ernulph continued in this office did not permit him to see his undertaking finished. (fn. 24) This was left to his successor Conrad, who, as the obituary of Christ church informs us, by his great industry, magnificently perfected the choir, which his predecessor had left unfinished, (fn. 25) adorning it with curious pictures, and enriching it with many precious ornaments. (fn. 26)
This great undertaking was not entirely compleated at the death of archbishop Anselm, which happened in 1109, anno 9 Henry I. nor indeed for the space of five years afterwards, during which the see of Canterbury continued vacant; when being finished, in honour of its builder, and on account of its more than ordinary beauty, it gained the name of the glorious choir of Conrad. (fn. 27)
After the see of Canterbury had continued thus vacant for five years, Ralph, or as some call him, Rodulph, bishop of Rochester, was translated to it in the year 1114, at whose coming to it, the church was dedicated anew to the Holy Trinity, the name which had been before given to it by Lanfranc. (fn. 28) The only particular description we have of this church when thus finished, is from Gervas, the monk of this monastery, and that proves imperfect, as to the choir of Lanfranc, which had been taken down soon after his death; (fn. 29) the following is his account of the nave, or western part of it below the choir, being that which had been erected by archbishop Lanfranc, as has been before mentioned. From him we learn, that the west end, where the chapel of the Virgin Mary stood before, was now adorned with two stately towers, on the top of which were gilded pinnacles. The nave or body was supported by eight pair of pillars. At the east end of the nave, on the north side, was an oratory, dedicated in honor to the blessed Virgin, in lieu, I suppose, of the chapel, that had in the former church been dedicated to her at the west end. Between the nave and the choir there was built a great tower or steeple, as it were in the centre of the whole fabric; (fn. 30) under this tower was erected the altar of the Holy Cross; over a partition, which separated this tower from the nave, a beam was laid across from one side to the other of the church; upon the middle of this beam was fixed a great cross, between the images of the Virgin Mary and St. John, and between two cherubims. The pinnacle on the top of this tower, was a gilded cherub, and hence it was called the angel steeple; a name it is frequently called by at this day. (fn. 31)
This great tower had on each side a cross isle, called the north and south wings, which were uniform, of the same model and dimensions; each of them had a strong pillar in the middle for a support to the roof, and each of them had two doors or passages, by which an entrance was open to the east parts of the church. At one of these doors there was a descent by a few steps into the undercroft; at the other, there was an ascent by many steps into the upper parts of the church, that is, the choir, and the isles on each side of it. Near every one of these doors or passages, an altar was erected; at the upper door in the south wing, there was an altar in honour of All Saints; and at the lower door there was one of St. Michael; and before this altar on the south side was buried archbishop Fleologild; and on the north side, the holy Virgin Siburgis, whom St. Dunstan highly admired for her sanctity. In the north isle, by the upper door, was the altar of St. Blaze; and by the lower door, that of St. Benedict. In this wing had been interred four archbishops, Adelm and Ceolnoth, behind the altar, and Egelnoth and Wlfelm before it. At the entrance into this wing, Rodulph and his successor William Corboil, both archbishops, were buried. (fn. 32)
Hence, he continues, we go up by some steps into the great tower, and before us there is a door and steps leading down into the south wing, and on the right hand a pair of folding doors, with stairs going down into the nave of the church; but without turning to any of these, let us ascend eastward, till by several more steps we come to the west end of Conrad's choir; being now at the entrance of the choir, Gervas tells us, that he neither saw the choir built by Lanfranc, nor found it described by any one; that Eadmer had made mention of it, without giving any account of it, as he had done of the old church, the reason of which appears to be, that Lanfranc's choir did not long survive its founder, being pulled down as before-mentioned, by archbishop Anselm; so that it could not stand more than twenty years; therefore the want of a particular description of it will appear no great defect in the history of this church, especially as the deficiency is here supplied by Gervas's full relation of the new choir of Conrad, built instead of it; of which, whoever desires to know the whole architecture and model observed in the fabric, the order, number, height and form of the pillars and windows, may know the whole of it from him. The roof of it, he tells us, (fn. 33) was beautified with curious paintings representing heaven; (fn. 34) in several respects it was agreeable to the present choir, the stalls were large and framed of carved wood. In the middle of it, there hung a gilded crown, on which were placed four and twenty tapers of wax. From the choir an ascent of three steps led to the presbiterium, or place for the presbiters; here, he says, it would be proper to stop a little and take notice of the high altar, which was dedicated to the name of CHRIST. It was placed between two other altars, the one of St. Dunstan, the other of St. Alphage; at the east corners of the high altar were fixed two pillars of wood, beautified with silver and gold; upon these pillars was placed a beam, adorned with gold, which reached across the church, upon it there were placed the glory, (fn. 35) the images of St. Dunstan and St. Alphage, and seven chests or coffers overlaid with gold, full of the relics of many saints. Between those pillars was a cross gilded all over, and upon the upper beam of the cross were set sixty bright crystals.
Beyond this, by an ascent of eight steps towards the east, behind the altar, was the archiepiscopal throne, which Gervas calls the patriarchal chair, made of one stone; in this chair, according to the custom of the church, the archbishop used to sit, upon principal festivals, in his pontifical ornaments, whilst the solemn offices of religion were celebrated, until the consecration of the host, when he came down to the high altar, and there performed the solemnity of consecration. Still further, eastward, behind the patriarchal chair, (fn. 36) was a chapel in the front of the whole church, in which was an altar, dedicated to the Holy Trinity; behind which were laid the bones of two archbishops, Odo of Canterbury, and Wilfrid of York; by this chapel on the south side near the wall of the church, was laid the body of archbishop Lanfranc, and on the north side, the body of archbishop Theobald. Here it is to be observed, that under the whole east part of the church, from the angel steeple, there was an undercrost or crypt, (fn. 37) in which were several altars, chapels and sepulchres; under the chapel of the Trinity before-mentioned, were two altars, on the south side, the altar of St. Augustine, the apostle of the English nation, by which archbishop Athelred was interred. On the north side was the altar of St. John Baptist, by which was laid the body of archbishop Eadsin; under the high altar was the chapel and altar of the blessed Virgin Mary, to whom the whole undercroft was dedicated.
To return now, he continues, to the place where the bresbyterium and choir meet, where on each side there was a cross isle (as was to be seen in his time) which might be called the upper south and north wings; on the east side of each of these wings were two half circular recesses or nooks in the wall, arched over after the form of porticoes. Each of them had an altar, and there was the like number of altars under them in the crost. In the north wing, the north portico had the altar of St. Martin, by which were interred the bodies of two archbishops, Wlfred on the right, and Living on the left hand; under it in the croft, was the altar of St. Mary Magdalen. The other portico in this wing, had the altar of St. Stephen, and by it were buried two archbishops, Athelard on the left hand, and Cuthbert on the right; in the croft under it, was the altar of St. Nicholas. In the south wing, the north portico had the altar of St. John the Evangelist, and by it the bodies of Æthelgar and Aluric, archbishops, were laid. In the croft under it was the altar of St. Paulinus, by which the body of archbishop Siricius was interred. In the south portico was the altar of St. Gregory, by which were laid the corps of the two archbishops Bregwin and Plegmund. In the croft under it was the altar of St. Owen, archbishop of Roan, and underneath in the croft, not far from it the altar of St. Catherine.
Passing from these cross isles eastward there were two towers, one on the north, the other on the south side of the church. In the tower on the north side was the altar of St. Andrew, which gave name to the tower; under it, in the croft, was the altar of the Holy Innocents; the tower on the south side had the altar of St. Peter and St. Paul, behind which the body of St. Anselm was interred, which afterwards gave name both to the altar and tower (fn. 38) (now called St. Anselm's). The wings or isles on each side of the choir had nothing in particular to be taken notice of.— Thus far Gervas, from whose description we in particular learn, where several of the bodies of the old archbishops were deposited, and probably the ashes of some of them remain in the same places to this day.
As this building, deservedly called the glorious choir of Conrad, was a magnificent work, so the undertaking of it at that time will appear almost beyond example, especially when the several circumstances of it are considered; but that it was carried forward at the archbishop's cost, exceeds all belief. It was in the discouraging reign of king William Rufus, a prince notorious in the records of history, for all manner of sacrilegious rapine, that archbishop Anselm was promoted to this see; when he found the lands and revenues of this church so miserably wasted and spoiled, that there was hardly enough left for his bare subsistence; who, in the first years that he sat in the archiepiscopal chair, struggled with poverty, wants and continual vexations through the king's displeasure, (fn. 39) and whose three next years were spent in banishment, during all which time he borrowed money for his present maintenance; who being called home by king Henry I. at his coming to the crown, laboured to pay the debts he had contracted during the time of his banishment, and instead of enjoying that tranquility and ease he hoped for, was, within two years afterwards, again sent into banishment upon a fresh displeasure conceived against him by the king, who then seized upon all the revenues of the archbishopric, (fn. 40) which he retained in his own hands for no less than four years.
Under these hard circumstances, it would have been surprizing indeed, that the archbishop should have been able to carry on so great a work, and yet we are told it, as a truth, by the testimonies of history; but this must surely be understood with the interpretation of his having been the patron, protector and encourager, rather than the builder of this work, which he entrusted to the care and management of the priors Ernulph and Conrad, and sanctioned their employing, as Lanfranc had done before, the revenues and stock of the church to this use. (fn. 41)
In this state as above-mentioned, without any thing material happening to it, this church continued till about the year 1130, anno 30 Henry I. when it seems to have suffered some damage by a fire; (fn. 42) but how much, there is no record left to inform us; however it could not be of any great account, for it was sufficiently repaired, and that mostly at the cost of archbishop Corboil, who then sat in the chair of this see, (fn. 43) before the 4th of May that year, on which day, being Rogation Sunday, the bishops performed the dedication of it with great splendor and magnificence, such, says Gervas, col. 1664, as had not been heard of since the dedication of the temple of Solomon; the king, the queen, David, king of Scots, all the archbishops, and the nobility of both kingdoms being present at it, when this church's former name was restored again, being henceforward commonly called Christ-church. (fn. 44)
Among the manuscripts of Trinity college library, in Cambridge, in a very curious triple psalter of St. Jerome, in Latin, written by the monk Eadwyn, whose picture is at the beginning of it, is a plan or drawing made by him, being an attempt towards a representation of this church and monastery, as they stood between the years 1130 and 1174; which makes it probable, that he was one of the monks of it, and the more so, as the drawing has not any kind of relation to the plalter or sacred hymns contained in the manuscript.
His plan, if so it may be called, for it is neither such, nor an upright, nor a prospect, and yet something of all together; but notwithstanding this rudeness of the draftsman, it shews very plain that it was intended for this church and priory, and gives us a very clear knowledge, more than we have been able to learn from any description we have besides, of what both were at the above period of time. (fn. 45)
Forty-four years after this dedication, on the 5th of September, anno 1174, being the 20th year of king Henry II.'s reign, a fire happened, which consumed great part of this stately edifice, namely, the whole choir, from the angel steeple to the east end of the church, together with the prior's lodgings, the chapel of the Virgin Mary, the infirmary, and some other offices belonging to the monastery; but the angel steeple, the lower cross isles, and the nave appear to have received no material injury from the flames. (fn. 46) The narrative of this accident is told by Gervas, the monk of Canterbury, so often quoted before, who was an eye witness of this calamity, as follows:
Three small houses in the city near the old gate of the monastery took fire by accident, a strong south wind carried the flakes of fire to the top of the church, and lodged them between the joints of the lead, driving them to the timbers under it; this kindled a fire there, which was not discerned till the melted lead gave a free passage for the flames to appear above the church, and the wind gaining by this means a further power of increasing them, drove them inwardly, insomuch that the danger became immediately past all possibility of relief. The timber of the roof being all of it on fire, fell down into the choir, where the stalls of the manks, made of large pieces of carved wood, afforded plenty of fuel to the flames, and great part of the stone work, through the vehement heat of the fire, was so weakened, as to be brought to irreparable ruin, and besides the fabric itself, the many rich ornaments in the church were devoured by the flames.
The choir being thus laid in ashes, the monks removed from amidst the ruins, the bodies of the two saints, whom they called patrons of the church, the archbishops Dunstan and Alphage, and deposited them by the altar of the great cross, in the nave of the church; (fn. 47) and from this time they celebrated the daily religious offices in the oratory of the blessed Virgin Mary in the nave, and continued to do so for more than five years, when the choir being re edified, they returned to it again. (fn. 48)
Upon this destruction of the church, the prior and convent, without any delay, consulted on the most speedy and effectual method of rebuilding it, resolving to finish it in such a manner, as should surpass all the former choirs of it, as well in beauty as size and magnificence. To effect this, they sent for the most skilful architects that could be found either in France or England. These surveyed the walls and pillars, which remained standing, but they found great part of them so weakened by the fire, that they could no ways be built upon with any safety; and it was accordingly resolved, that such of them should be taken down; a whole year was spent in doing this, and in providing materials for the new building, for which they sent abroad for the best stone that could be procured; Gervas has given a large account, (fn. 49) how far this work advanced year by year; what methods and rules of architecture were observed, and other particulars relating to the rebuilding of this church; all which the curious reader may consult at his leisure; it will be sufficient to observe here, that the new building was larger in height and length, and more beautiful in every respect, than the choir of Conrad; for the roof was considerably advanced above what it was before, and was arched over with stone; whereas before it was composed of timber and boards. The capitals of the pillars were now beautified with different sculptures of carvework; whereas, they were before plain, and six pillars more were added than there were before. The former choir had but one triforium, or inner gallery, but now there were two made round it, and one in each side isle and three in the cross isles; before, there were no marble pillars, but such were now added to it in abundance. In forwarding this great work, the monks had spent eight years, when they could proceed no further for want of money; but a fresh supply coming in from the offerings at St. Thomas's tomb, so much more than was necessary for perfecting the repair they were engaged in, as encouraged them to set about a more grand design, which was to pull down the eastern extremity of the church, with the small chapel of the Holy Trinity adjoining to it, and to erect upon a stately undercroft, a most magnificent one instead of it, equally lofty with the roof of the church, and making a part of it, which the former one did not, except by a door into it; but this new chapel, which was dedicated likewise to the Holy Trinity, was not finished till some time after the rest of the church; at the east end of this chapel another handsome one, though small, was afterwards erected at the extremity of the whole building, since called Becket's crown, on purpose for an altar and the reception of some part of his relics; (fn. 50) further mention of which will be made hereafter.
The eastern parts of this church, as Mr. Gostling observes, have the appearance of much greater antiquity than what is generally allowed to them; and indeed if we examine the outside walls and the cross wings on each side of the choir, it will appear, that the whole of them was not rebuilt at the time the choir was, and that great part of them was suffered to remain, though altered, added to, and adapted as far as could be, to the new building erected at that time; the traces of several circular windows and other openings, which were then stopped up, removed, or altered, still appearing on the walls both of the isles and the cross wings, through the white-wash with which they are covered; and on the south side of the south isle, the vaulting of the roof as well as the triforium, which could not be contrived so as to be adjusted to the places of the upper windows, plainly shew it. To which may be added, that the base or foot of one of the westernmost large pillars of the choir on the north side, is strengthened with a strong iron band round it, by which it should seem to have been one of those pillars which had been weakened by the fire, but was judged of sufficient firmness, with this precaution, to remain for the use of the new fabric.
The outside of this part of the church is a corroborating proof of what has been mentioned above, as well in the method, as in the ornaments of the building.— The outside of it towards the south, from St. Michael's chapel eastward, is adorned with a range of small pillars, about six inches diameter, and about three feet high, some with santastic shasts and capitals, others with plain ones; these support little arches, which intersect each other; and this chain or girdle of pillars is continued round the small tower, the eastern cross isle and the chapel of St. Anselm, to the buildings added in honour of the Holy Trinity, and St. Thomas Becket, where they leave off. The casing of St. Michael's chapel has none of them, but the chapel of the Virgin Mary, answering to it on the north side of the church, not being fitted to the wall, shews some of them behind it; which seems as if they had been continued before, quite round the eastern parts of the church.
These pillars, which rise from about the level of the pavement, within the walls above them, are remarkably plain and bare of ornaments; but the tower above mentioned and its opposite, as soon as they rise clear of the building, are enriched with stories of this colonade, one above another, up to the platform from whence their spires rise; and the remains of the two larger towers eastward, called St. Anselm's, and that answering to it on the north side of the church, called St. Andrew's are decorated much after the same manner, as high as they remain at present.
At the time of the before-mentioned fire, which so fatally destroyed the upper part of this church, the undercrost, with the vaulting over it, seems to have remained entire, and unhurt by it.
The vaulting of the undercrost, on which the floor of the choir and eastern parts of the church is raised, is supported by pillars, whose capitals are as various and fantastical as those of the smaller ones described before, and so are their shafts, some being round, others canted, twisted, or carved, so that hardly any two of them are alike, except such as are quite plain.
These, I suppose, may be concluded to be of the same age, and if buildings in the same stile may be conjectured to be so from thence, the antiquity of this part of the church may be judged, though historians have left us in the dark in relation to it.
In Leland's Collectanea, there is an account and description of a vault under the chancel of the antient church of St. Peter, in Oxford, called Grymbald's crypt, being allowed by all, to have been built by him; (fn. 51) Grymbald was one of those great and accomplished men, whom king Alfred invited into England about the year 885, to assist him in restoring Christianity, learning and the liberal arts. (fn. 52) Those who compare the vaults or undercrost of the church of Canterbury, with the description and prints given of Grymbald's crypt, (fn. 53) will easily perceive, that two buildings could hardly have been erected more strongly resembling each other, except that this at Canterbury is larger, and more pro fusely decorated with variety of fancied ornaments, the shafts of several of the pillars here being twisted, or otherwise varied, and many of the captials exactly in the same grotesque taste as those in Grymbald's crypt. (fn. 54) Hence it may be supposed, that those whom archbishop Lanfranc employed as architects and designers of his building at Canterbury, took their model of it, at least of this part of it, from that crypt, and this undercrost now remaining is the same, as was originally built by him, as far eastward, as to that part which begins under the chapel of the Holy Trinity, where it appears to be of a later date, erected at the same time as the chapel. The part built by Lanfranc continues at this time as firm and entire, as it was at the very building of it, though upwards of seven hundred years old. (fn. 55)
But to return to the new building; though the church was not compleatly finished till the end of the year 1184, yet it was so far advanced towards it, that, in 1180, on April 19, being Easter eve, (fn. 56) the archbishop, prior and monks entered the new choir, with a solemn procession, singing Te Deum, for their happy return to it. Three days before which they had privately, by night, carried the bodies of St. Dunstan and St. Alphage to the places prepared for them near the high altar. The body likewise of queen Edive (which after the fire had been removed from the north cross isle, where it lay before, under a stately gilded shrine) to the altar of the great cross, was taken up, carried into the vestry, and thence to the altar of St. Martin, where it was placed under the coffin of archbishop Livinge. In the month of July following the altar of the Holy Trinity was demolished, and the bodies of those archbishops, which had been laid in that part of the church, were removed to other places. Odo's body was laid under St. Dunstan's and Wilfrid's under St. Alphage's; Lanfranc's was deposited nigh the altar of St. Martin, and Theobald's at that of the blessed Virgin, in the nave of the church, (fn. 57) under a marble tomb; and soon afterwards the two archbishops, on the right and left hand of archbishop Becket in the undercrost, were taken up and placed under the altar of St. Mary there. (fn. 58)
After a warning so terrible, as had lately been given, it seemed most necessary to provide against the danger of fire for the time to come; the flames, which had so lately destroyed a considerable part of the church and monastery, were caused by some small houses, which had taken fire at a small distance from the church.— There still remained some other houses near it, which belonged to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine; for these the monks of Christ-church created, by an exchange, which could not be effected till the king interposed, and by his royal authority, in a manner, compelled the abbot and convent to a composition for this purpose, which was dated in the year 1177, that was three years after the late fire of this church. (fn. 59)
These houses were immediately pulled down, and it proved a providential and an effectual means of preserving the church from the like calamity; for in the year 1180, on May 22, this new choir, being not then compleated, though it had been used the month be fore, as has been already mentioned, there happened a fire in the city, which burnt down many houses, and the flames bent their course towards the church, which was again in great danger; but the houses near it being taken away, the fire was stopped, and the church escaped being burnt again. (fn. 60)
Although there is no mention of a new dedication of the church at this time, yet the change made in the name of it has been thought by some to imply a formal solemnity of this kind, as it appears to have been from henceforth usually called the church of St. Thomas the Martyr, and to have continued so for above 350 years afterwards.
New names to churches, it is true. have been usually attended by formal consecrations of them; and had there been any such solemnity here, undoubtedly the same would not have passed by unnoticed by every historian, the circumstance of it must have been notorious, and the magnificence equal at least to the other dedications of this church, which have been constantly mentioned by them; but here was no need of any such ceremony, for although the general voice then burst forth to honour this church with the name of St. Thomas, the universal object of praise and adoration, then stiled the glorious martyr, yet it reached no further, for the name it had received at the former dedication, notwithstanding this common appellation of it, still remained in reality, and it still retained invariably in all records and writings, the name of Christ church only, as appears by many such remaining among the archives of the dean and chapter; and though on the seal of this church, which was changed about this time; the counter side of it had a representation of Becket's martyrdom, yet on the front of it was continued that of the church, and round it an inscription with the former name of Christ church; which seal remained in force till the dissolution of the priory.
It may not be improper to mention here some transactions, worthy of observation, relating to this favorite saint, which passed from the time of his being murdered, to that of his translation to the splendid shrine prepared for his relics.
Archbishop Thomas Becket was barbarously murdered in this church on Dec. 29, 1170, being the 16th year of king Henry II. and his body was privately buried towards the east end of the undercrost. The monks tell us, that about the Easter following, miracles began to be wrought by him, first at his tomb, then in the undercrost, and in every part of the whole fabric of the church; afterwards throughout England, and lastly, throughout the rest of the world. (fn. 61) The same of these miracles procured him the honour of a formal canonization from pope Alexander III. whose bull for that purpose is dated March 13, in the year 1172. (fn. 62) This declaration of the pope was soon known in all places, and the reports of his miracles were every where sounded abroad. (fn. 63)
Hereupon crowds of zealots, led on by a phrenzy of devotion, hastened to kneel at his tomb. In 1177, Philip, earl of Flanders, came hither for that purpose, when king Henry met and had a conference with him at Canterbury. (fn. 64) In June 1178, king Henry returning from Normandy, visited the sepulchre of this new saint; and in July following, William, archbishop of Rhemes, came from France, with a large retinue, to perform his vows to St. Thomas of Canterbury, where the king met him and received him honourably. In the year 1179, Lewis, king of France, came into England; before which neither he nor any of his predecessors had ever set foot in this kingdom. (fn. 65) He landed at Dover, where king Henry waited his arrival, and on August 23, the two kings came to Canterbury, with a great train of nobility of both nations, and were received with due honour and great joy, by the archbishop, with his com-provincial bishops, and the prior and the whole convent. (fn. 66)
King Lewis came in the manner and habit of a pilgrim, and was conducted to the tomb of St. Thomas by a solemn procession; he there offered his cup of gold and a royal precious stone, (fn. 67) and gave the convent a yearly rent for ever, of a hundred muids of wine, to be paid by himself and his successors; which grant was confirmed by his royal charter, under his seal, and delivered next day to the convent; (fn. 68) after he had staid here two, (fn. 69) or as others say, three days, (fn. 70) during which the oblations of gold and silver made were so great, that the relation of them almost exceeded credibility. (fn. 71) In 1181, king Henry, in his return from Normandy, again paid his devotions at this tomb. These visits were the early fruits of the adoration of the new sainted martyr, and these royal examples of kings and great persons were followed by multitudes, who crowded to present with full hands their oblations at his tomb.— Hence the convent was enabled to carry forward the building of the new choir, and they applied all this vast income to the fabric of the church, as the present case instantly required, for which they had the leave and consent of the archbishop, confirmed by the bulls of several succeeding popes. (fn. 72)
¶From the liberal oblations of these royal and noble personages at the tomb of St. Thomas, the expences of rebuilding the choir appear to have been in a great measure supplied, nor did their devotion and offerings to the new saint, after it was compleated, any ways abate, but, on the contrary, they daily increased; for in the year 1184, Philip, archbishop of Cologne, and Philip, earl of Flanders, came together to pay their vows at this tomb, and were met here by king Henry, who gave them an invitation to London. (fn. 73) In 1194, John, archbishop of Lions; in the year afterwards, John, archbishop of York; and in the year 1199, king John, performed their devotions at the foot of this tomb. (fn. 74) King Richard I. likewise, on his release from captivity in Germany, landing on the 30th of March at Sandwich, proceeded from thence, as an humble stranger on foot, towards Canterbury, to return his grateful thanks to God and St. Thomas for his release. (fn. 75) All these by name, with many nobles and multitudes of others, of all sorts and descriptions, visited the saint with humble adoration and rich oblations, whilst his body lay in the undercrost. In the mean time the chapel and altar at the upper part of the east end of the church, which had been formerly consecrated to the Holy Trinity, were demolished, and again prepared with great splendor, for the reception of this saint, who being now placed there, implanted his name not only on the chapel and altar, but on the whole church, which was from thenceforth known only by that of the church of St. Thomas the martyr.
On July 7, anno 1220, the remains of St. Thomas were translated from his tomb to his new shrine, with the greatest solemnity and rejoicings. Pandulph, the pope's legate, the archbishops of Canterbury and Rheims, and many bishops and abbots, carried the coffin on their shoulders, and placed it on the new shrine, and the king graced these solemnities with his royal presence. (fn. 76) The archbishop of Canterbury provided forage along all the road, between London and Canterbury, for the horses of all such as should come to them, and he caused several pipes and conduits to run with wine in different parts of the city. This, with the other expences arising during the time, was so great, that he left a debt on the see, which archbishop Boniface, his fourth successor in it, was hardly enabled to discharge.
¶The saint being now placed in his new repository, became the vain object of adoration to the deluded people, and afterwards numbers of licences were granted to strangers by the king, to visit this shrine. (fn. 77) The titles of glorious, of saint and martyr, were among those given to him; (fn. 78) such veneration had all people for his relics, that the religious of several cathedral churches and monasteries, used all their endeavours to obtain some of them, and thought themselves happy and rich in the possession of the smallest portion of them. (fn. 79) Besides this, there were erected and dedicated to his honour, many churches, chapels, altars and hospitals in different places, both in this kingdom and abroad. (fn. 80) Thus this saint, even whilst he lay in his obscure tomb in the undercroft, brought such large and constant supplies of money, as enabled the monks to finish this beautiful choir, and the eastern parts of the church; and when he was translated to the most exalted and honourable place in it, a still larger abundance of gain filled their coffers, which continued as a plentiful supply to them, from year to year, to the time of the reformation, and the final abolition of the priory itself.
Masonic Mosaic Pavement and Indented Skirting.
Masonic Mosaic Pavement and Star.
The lodge room: www.flickr.com/photos/21728045@N08/8101810367/in/set-7215...
www.masonicforum.ro/?cmd=displaystory&story_id=73&....
The Mosaic Pavement
by GABRIEL VASILE OLTEAN
Expert Inspector of NGLR for Western Region; Past Worshipful Master, ZAMOLXIS Lodge, No. 182, Deva
"The interior decoration of a masonic lodge comprises ornaments, accessories and insignia. The ornaments are: the mosaic on the floor - respresenting spirt and matter, the shining star and the laced edge, which remind us always the first of the presence of God and the second of the protective wall" - cites Charles W Leadbeater from the ritual of mixed masonry in his work "Freemasonry - Rites and Initiations."
In the center of the Temple, on the ground, there is a rectangular floor, with black and white tiles, called the mosaic pavement (theoretically, cubes seen perspectivally), where a relgaion obtains between the sides, either 2:1 (the long square) or 1.618.../1 (the golden number), thus coming up with a surface proportional to the total area of the Lodge. Thus we see that practically the moasica, placed in the center of the Lodge is a microcosmic representation of the whole of creation and is by itself a sacred central area - whence the interdiction to ever step on the mosaic when the work of the Lodge is underway. The pavement symbolizes the indisociable operative complementarity of the two cosmic principles: the initiate must know how no longer let himself be dominated by the confrontation between positive and negative forces, to know (it is indispensable) how to use it, to master it so as to work constructively.
In Ancient Egypt, the mosaic was never stepped on except by a candidate and the masters of ceremony, and only at precise moments (by the Past Worshipful Master for the fulfilment of his tasks, by the First Expert when he took the light of the sacred fire, or by the sexton when he spread frankincense on the altar of the Temple. An extremely important aspect of the mosaic pavement is that, being placed in the middle of the Temple, framed by the three colonettes (which represent the Worshipful Master, the Senior and Junior Wardens), must be avoided by walking in a square, in a symbolic sense. The current of energy cross the floor, some along the length, some along the width, in lines that remind of the warp of a canvas.
Upon opening the work, the Trestle Board is depicted on this pavement, which varies with the first three degrees. The mosaic pavement signifies different things according to the traditional mode of work in the lodge, or the masonic rite employed.
The French Rite specifies that the pavement adorned the threshold of the geat porch of the Temple and showed that this is one of the ornaments of the Lodge, being the emblem of the intimate union among masons. Here it was explained to the Apprentice that he "could not stand on the mosaic pavement to contemplate the interior of the edifice". This started above from the seventh step, as we can well conclude by an attentive research of the Trestle Boards of the first two degrees.
The Rectified Scottish Rite speaks too little of this pavement, noting that "the mosaic pavement adorns the threshold of the great veranda of the Temple. It covers the entry to the subterranean part of the Temple between the two columns, to a crypt that held holy idols and especially the pledge of the alliance between the chosen people and the Creator: the Royal Ark (Ark of the Covenant).
The Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite does not describe in any way this ornament. As to the decoration of the Lodge, it is said however "the floor of the lodge is the pavement in alternative black and white squares. When it is thus decorated, a pavement is achieved wit the shape of a long square, placed in the center of the Lodge, decorated on the model of the latter".
The York Rite affirms that "the mosaic pavement represents the floor of the Temple of Solomon", having the added laced edge. It is obvious enough that it is about a symbolic contribution in what regards the floor of the Lodge, because in the Bible the floor of the Temple isn't described as an series of black and white squares: "and the floor of the Temple was made from cypress planks" (3 Kings 6:15).
Whereas in the Emulation Rite (the Anglo-Saxon Rites are more precise in their descriptions) specifies that "the mosaic pavement may rightly be considered the wondrous tiling of a freemason Lodge due to its diversity and regularity. Thus the diversity of beings and objects in the world surfaces, as well the ensouled ones as those that are not". In the complementary course of the Rite of Emulation (in the fifth part) it is specified: "our lodge is adorned with mosaic pavement to mark the uncertainty of all terrestrial vanities... as we step on this mosaic, our thought must return to the original idea that we imitate and act as honorable men and masons". Mosaic pavement is presented as an image of faith, harmony, understanding..
Outside the definitions offered by different masonic rites, the mosaic pavement may be approached under many aspect, two of which seem edifying to us:
• The floor of the Lodge,
• The route of squares for the tracing of planes,
When we approach the mosaic pavement as floor of the Lodge, we are forced to distinguish between the pavement of operative and speculative Lodges.
In the first case, we specify that Lodges were usually annexes to the construction site, attached to the construction on the Southern side of the Work (to receive more light and to have the wall of the edifice for protection. It is extremely clear and evident that in this case no floor was imposed (nor would any be functional). The tiling that constitutes the mosaic is fragile in contradiction with the dimensions (weight) of the tools of freemasons (sledgehammers were very heavy). If we are talking about a surface for permanent cutting and polishing of rock, we can easily imagine that the floor of such a place was permanently covered by fragments, remains, abrasive dust. Not in the last place, we must note the fact that mosaic was principally fixed in especially prepared mortar in which designs were first marked that etched the image or drawing that was the purpose of the mosaic.
In the other approach, that of the speculative Lodges, a symbolic rug laid in squares may be laid on the floor, or it may be build from alternating black and white tiles, the decision being that of the Lodge. The notionc of mosaic pavement cannot be discussed before the appearance of Grand Lodges.
As a route of squares - as network of right angles - to trace planes is another mode of approach specific to operative lodges, which must distinguish:
A directory route of the edifice that must be understood after we describe the Medieval constructin site at the beginning of the work: on a leveled and cleared surface (treated with charcoal), a scheme of the main lines of the edifice was traced with the help of a rope covered in chalk. There
are documents to this effect that attest the describe practice, which reminds of certain answers from the masonic catechism. To the question: "how do you serve your Master?", there is the answer: "with charcoal, chalk and clay".
A technical assistance set of squares would be another variant of this approach. An amenably arranged surface, spread in regular squares through lines traced for inumerable uses, the first and most important being that of assembly table. It also served to establish easily a series of angles, in an approximate way that was sufficient for a mason (taking four divisions on a line, and on the perpendicular seven at one extremity, a reasaonbly 60° angle is obtained). In fact, we can imagine the banal math copybook paper that has helped us trace with more facility (and more precision) the geometrical shapes that tortured (or didn't) us in the geometry problems in elementary school.
The black and white, chessboard-like pavement is thus the mosaic pavement. In what pertains to the term "mosaic", there are two different opinions, one refering to Moses and one to the technique of decoration. Each school has its pros and cons, more or less logical and valid.
"The canvas of ours lives is a mixed thread, the good together with the bad" wrote Shakespeare. Anything is characterized by a combination of good and bad, light and shadow, joy and sadness, positive and negative, yin and yang. What is good for me may be bad for you, pleasure is generated by pain, etc.
Following the thread of the current Paper, we may say with certainty that the mosaic is not mart of the elements of Judaic architecture and that the mosaic pavement is a contribution of modern speculative Masonry, operative lodges never having been squared this way. It is obvious that the current exposition is not and does not wish to be an exhaustive work. It is a somewhat complex approach of an important symbol in the decoration of the masonic Temple and it wishes in fact to the a paper addressing an open question:
- The mosaic pavement is the floor of the Lodge (as the rituals consider it) or is it the space limited by the three pillars Power, Wisdom, and Beauty?
A good thought accompanied by the triple brotherly accolade!
Copyright Forum Masonic
The blazing star pattern used, is usually that of the "pentalpha", or five pointed star with intermediate flames. This star is primarily the symbol of divine providence and can be found in our mosaic pavement. The five points should remind us also of other masonic "fives". The five orders of arch itecture, the five points of fellowship, the five senses and the five who must be present in order for a Lodge to be held. The star is also said to represent the Morning Star which is yet another symbol of rebirth which is so significant to each of us.
I should point out that there is a six pointed star or hexalpha which is also known as the "Glory". This six pointed star is the Seal of Solomon and also the Star of David. This star is also represented on the carpet at times and there is distinct confusion in the texts over which star is THE star to use. The primary symbolic meaning of the six pointed star is the universe as an entity.
I have been to St Mary of Charity before. But that was many years ago.
Back then, I took three shots inside. I took 300 today.
St Mary is a huge church with a Victorian tower with the most amazing spire, which makes it visible from just about all over the town.
Faversham is best know as being home to Shepherd Neame brewery, it claims to the England's oldest surviving brewer.
The town sits on the edge of the Swale, with a large expanse of marshes and creeks between the town and open water.
We parked on wide Abbey Street, and while Jools went shopping, I walked along side the old brewery buildings to the church, with the tower and spire straight ahead along a street of terraced houses.
The church was open, though I got shouted at for not closing the glass door properly. This was from the group of people partaking in the weekly coffee morning.
The looked at me as I went round the large church, snapping details and marvelling at the single painted pillar.
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An extraordinary building comprising a medieval chancel and transepts, eighteenth-century nave and nineteenth-century tower and spire. Despite heavy-handed restorations of the nineteenth century - by Sir George Gilbert Scott and Ewan Christian in 1873 - which have resulted in loss of character, there is much to see. The fourteenth-century transepts are aisled - a most unusual feature in an ordinary parish church. The medieval authorities probably decided to invest in a lavish building to counteract the pulling power of the famous abbey which stood to the east. One of the pillars of the north transept has a series of contemporary small paintings of biblical scenes. You are advised to take a pair of binoculars to see them to advantage. The stalls in the chancel have misericords with a good selection of carved armrests, and there is also a crypt and an unforgettable east window of 1911.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Faversham+1
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THE PARISH AND TOWN OF FAVERSHAM.
CALLED, according to Lambarde, in Saxon, Fafresham, and Fafresfeld, in the record of Domesday, Favershant, and in some few others, Fefresham.
THE PARISH lies adjoining to the high London road southward at the 47th mile-stone, and extends to the creek on the opposite side of the town, the houses on the south side of which reach to within two hundred yards of the road, whence there is a good view into it.
The parish includes the north side of the London road from the above mile-stone westward, almost as far as the summit of Judde-hill, and the liberties of the town extend as far of this space westward as the rivulet in Ospringe street. Thus this parish intervenes, and entirely separates that part of Ospringe parish, at the northern boundary of it, in which are the storekeeper's house of the royal mills, and part of the offices and gardens belonging to it, and some of the mills themselves, and in the town likewise, Ospringe parish again intervening, there is a small part of West-street which is within that parish. At the east end of Ospringe-street, though within Faversham parish, and the liberties of the town, close to the high London road, there is a handsome new-built house, erected not many years since by Mr.Bonnick Lypyeatt, who resided in it till his death in 1789. He left two daughters his coheirs, one of whom married Mr.C.Brooke, of London, and the other Captain Gosselin, of the Life-guards. It is now occupied by John Mayor, esq.
¶The rest, or northern part of the parish lies very low, and adjoins the marshes, of which there is a very large tract. The country here is a fine extended level, the fields of a considerable size, and mostly unincumbered with trees or hedgerows, the lands being perhaps as fertile and as highly cultivated as any within this county, being part of that fruitful value extending almost from Sittingborne to Boughton Blean, so often taken notice of before. The grounds adjoining the upper parts of the town are mostly hop plantations, of a rich and kindly growth, but several of them have lately given place to those of fruit. About twenty years ago the cultivation of madder was introduced here, and many induced by the prospect of great gains, made plantations of it at a very considerable expence, and a mill was erected for the purpose of grinding the roots, but from various disappointments, and unforeseen disadvantages, the undertakers of it were deterred from prosecuting the growth of it, and I believe they have for some time entirely discontinued it.
At the south-east extremity of this parish, as well as in other particular parts of this county, there are several chalk-pits, the most noted of these being called Hegdale pit, of a great depth, which though narrow at the top, yet more inward are very capacious, having, as it were, distinct rooms, supported by pillars of chalk. Several opinions have been formed concerning the intent and use of them, some that they were formed by the digging of chalk, for the building of the abbey, as well as afterwards from time to time, for the manuring of the neighbouring lands; others that the English Saxons might dig them, for the same uses that the Germans did, from whom they were descended, who made use of them, according to Tacitus, as a refuge in winter, as a repository for their corn, and as a place of security, for themselves, their families, and their property, from the searches of their enemies. (fn. 1)
Near the west end of the bridge, opposite the storekeeper's house of the royal powder-mills, there is a strong chalybeate spring, which on trial has been proved to be nearly equal to those of Tunbridge Wells. (fn. 2)
In the year 1774, a most remarkable fish, called mola salviani, orthe sun-fish, was caught on Faversham Flats, which weighed about nineteen pounds and a half, and was about two feet diameter. It is a fish very rarely seen in our narrow seas. (fn. 3)
THE TOWN ITSELF, and so much of the parish as is within the bounds of the corporation, is subject to the liberties of it, and of the cinque ports, and is exempt from the jurisdiction of the hundred of Faversham; but the rest of the parish, together with the rectory, is within the liberties of that hundred, which has been always esteemed as appurtenant to the manor of Faversham.
Although from the several discoveries which have been made of Roman antiquities in this neighbourhood, it is plain, that it could not be unknown to that nation, during their stay in this island, yet there is no mention made of this place by any writer during that period; and it seems, even in the time of the Saxons, to have been a place of but little consequence, notwithstanding it was then a part of the royal demesnes, as appears by a charter of Cenulph, king of Mercia, anno 812, wherein it is stiled the king's little town of Fefresham; and in one of Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons and of Kent, anno 839, where it is said to be made, only, in villa de Faverisham. However, it was of note sufficient, perhaps as being the king's estate, even in the time of king Alfred, at the first division of this county into those smaller districts, to give name to the hundred in which it is situated. Lambarde, Camden, and Leland say, that king Athelstan held a parliament, or meeting of his wife menat Faversham, about the year 903, (no doubt for 930) in which several laws were enacted. (fn. 8)
FAVERSHAM continued part of the antient demesnes of the crown of this realm at the time of the taking of the general survey of Domesday, in which it is entered, under the general title of Terra Regis, that is, the king's antient demesne, as follows:
In the lath of Wivarlet, in Favreshant hundred, king William holds Favreshant. It was taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is seventeen carucates. In demesne there are two. There are thirty villeins, with forty borderers, having twenty-four carucates. There are five servants, and one mill of twenty shillings, and two acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of one hundred hogs, and of the pasture of the wood thirty-one shillings and two pence. A market of four pounds, and two salt-pits of three shillings and two-pence, and in the city of Canterbury, there are three houses of twenty-pence belonging to this manor. In the whole value, in the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth sixty pounds all but five shillings, and afterwards sixty pounds, and now it is worth four times twenty pounds.
¶The manor of Faversham, with the hundred appurtenant to it, remained part of the possessions of the crown till about the beginning of king Stephen's reign, when it was granted to William de Ipre, a foreigner, whom, for his faithful services against the empress Maud, the king, in his 7th year, created Earl of Kent; but within a few years afterwards, resolving to found an abbey here, he, with his queen Matilda, about the year 1147, exchanged the manor of Lillechirch, and other premises, for this manor and hundred, where they, at the latter end of that year, or the beginning of the year after, founded an abbey at a small distance from the town of Faversham, on the north-east side of it, for the space where Court, or Ab bey-street now stands was then unbuilt, and this was therefore, in the reign of Edward III. distinguished by the name of the New Town, as the rest of it, built before, was by that of the Old Town, and they appointed Clarembald, the prior of Bermondsey, to be abbot of this new foundation, which was dedicated to St. Saviour, and for their support, the king granted to him and the monks of it, twelve of whom had been removed with Clarembald for this purpose from Bermondsey, which priory was of the order of Clugni, the manor of Faversham, with its appurtenances, and other premises, in perpetual alms, with many liberties, as may be further seen in the charter itself. (fn. 9)
HE TOWN OF FAVERSHAM is within the limits of the cinque ports, being esteemed as a limb or member of the town of Dover, one of those ports. Of what antiquity these ports and antient towns are, when enfranchised, or at what times their members were annexed to them, has not been as yet, with any certainty, discovered; and, therefore, they are held to enjoy all their earliest liberties and privileges, as time out of mind, and by prescription.
It is, however certain, that at the time of king Edward the Consessor, the five ports were enfranchised with divers liberties, privileges, and customs, peculiar to themselves; for the better conducting of which they had the establishment of one grand court, called the court of Shipway, from its being almost always held at a place of that name near Hyth; in which the general business relating to the whole community was transacted before the warden, as principal and chief over them. Nevertheless, though they acted here jointly, like a county palatine as to the government, for the desence of the liberty of the whole, yet every particular corporation in each town acted severally and distinctly, according to its own privileges, charters, and customs within their own particular limits, without any controul or interference from this court, or the rest of the community. (fn. 20)
The five ports, as being from their situation most exposed to the depredations of enemies, were first incorporated for their own mutual defence, and were afterwards endowed with great privileges, for the public desence of the nation, and the king's service. The force they were enjoined to raise and keep in residence for this purpose was fifty-seven ships, properly furnished and accoutred for a certain number of days, to be ready at the king's summons, at their own charge, and if the state of affairs required their assistance any longer, they were paid by the crown. But because the expence was in after times found to be too burthensome for these five ports, several other towns were added as members to them, that they might bear a part of the charge, for which they were recompenced with a participation of their privileges and immunities. All which were confirmed to them by Magna Charta, by the name of the barons of the five ports, and again by one general charter by king Edward I. which, by inspeximus, has received confirmation, and sometimes additions, from most of the succeeding kings and queens of this realm.
¶FAVERSHAM, stiled both a town and a port at different times in antient records, isa corporation by prescription. In the oldest charter now remaining, which is that of the 36th year of king Henry III. wherein the members of it are stiled, according to the usual language of those times, barons, that is freemen, there is contained a confirmation of all their former antient rights and privileges. In the 42d year of the above reign, which is as far as can be traced by evidence, the jurisdiction of this town was then in a mayor or alderman, and twelve jurats. In a charter of Edward I. the barons of it are acknowledged to have done good services to him and his predecessors, kings of England; and in the 21st year of that reign, there is an entry of the mayor and jurats assembling in their hallmote, or portmote-court, as it is elsewhere called, together with the lord abbot's steward, and there sealing a fine with the town's seal, of a messuage and garden in Faversham, according to the use and custom of the court, by which it is evident, that this court was of some antiquity at that time. (fn. 21)
Faversham is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Ospringe.
The church, which stands close to the east side of the town, was dedicated to the assumption of our lady of Faversham. It is built in the form of a cross, of flints, with quoins of ashler stone. It had, until 1755, when it was taken down, a large square castellated tower in the middle of it, and there remains now another low tower at the north side of the west front, upon which is erected a frame of timber, covered with shingles. So long ago as king Henry the VIIth.'s reign, there seems to have been no steeple to this church, for in 1464, Edward Thomasson, of this town, gave sixty pounds towards the edifying of a new one to it; (fn. 31) and of later time, James Lawson, esq. a wealthy inhabitant of this town, who died in 1794, gave by his will 1000l. for the same purpose, with this sum, together with 500l. given by the corporation, and the remainder payable by a rate, a steeple, seventy-three feet high above the tower, with pinnacles at each corner of it, on the plan of St. Dunstan's in the East, has been erected, and is now nearly compleated, at the expence of 2500l.
Behind the tower, within the outer walls, is a strong timbered room, formerly called the tresory, in which, before the reformation, were carefully deposited the goods and ornaments of the church; over it was the chamber for the sextons. On the south side of the west front is a room, formerly open to the church, in which was taught reading and writing; under it is a neat chapel, with stone arches, supported by three pillars in the middle. Over the south porch there is another stone room, the window of which is grated with strong iron bars.
Mr. Henry Hatch, whose extensive charity to this town has already been mentioned, by will in 1533, gave a sum of money, at the discretion of the mayor, and his brethren, in making a new jewel-house for this church.
In 1440 there were placed in it five new bells, and in 1459 a sixth was added; these remained till 1749, when they were cast into a new peal of eight.
The church seems to have been built in the latter end of the reign of Edward I. or the beginning of the reign of Edward II. by a silver penny of one of those kings being found under the basis of one of the piers, which supported the middle tower. In the east window of the great chancel, were some time since remaining two shields of arms, viz. Gules, two lions passant-guardant, or a label of five points, azure; and Argent, a lion rampant, sable, within a bordure of the second, bezante.
In the year 1754, the body of the church, as well as the roof of it, on a survey, being deemed in a dangerous state, a faculty was obtained to pull it down, which was accordingly done, under the plan and directions of Mr. George Dance, of London, architect, at the expence of 2300l. besides which, 400l. was afterwards expended in an organ, and 100l. more in other ornaments, and ninety pounds in improving the great chancel, which through age was become very unsightly; so that the whole of it is now made equal to, if not the most elegant and spacious, of any parish church in this county, and is extensive and spacious enough to afford convenient room for all the parishioners of it.
¶When this church was new built, and the body and isles new paved, the grave-stones, many of which were antient, with brasses on them, were removed from the places where they lay, to other open and consipicuous parts of it. Among the monuments were those for Henry Hatche, merchant adventurer, 1533; Thomas Mendfield, 1614, John Fagg, esq. 1508, and one for Thomas Southouse, esq. 1558, who wrote the Monas tion Favershamiense. Both monuments and epitaphs are by far too numerous to insert in this place, they may be found at large in Weever's Funeral Monuments, in Lewis's Appendix to his History of Faversham Abbey, and in Harris's History of Kent. Besides which there is in the Appendix to Jacob's History of Faversham, a chronological list of such persons as have been known to have been buried in it.
This church measures from east to west, including the chancel, one hundred and sixty feet, the width of the body sixty five feet; the length of the isles from north to south one hundred and twenty-four feet, and their width forty-six feet.
Before the reformation, besides the high altar in the great chancel, there were two chapels, one dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the other to St. Thomas, and there were several altars in the isles and chancels.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
On 5 December 2018, Her Excellency Mrs Jeannette Kagame attended the 11th annual holiday camp, organised by Imbuto Foundation for its Edified Generation student-recipients, which took place at Groupe Scolaire Mater-Dei in Nyanza District.
The camp gathered over 681 boys and girls- students from 3 to 5 December 2018.
Students who attended the camp, took part in discussions about adolescent sexual reproductive health, prevention of drugs and alcohol abuse, community involvement, CV writing and opportunities after secondary school among others. The discussions were lead by inspirational speakers, partners, stakeholders and experts working in the fields of Education and Economic Empowerment.
Students also participated in Umuganda (community service) in which they built 25 kitchen gardens and needed facilities for vulnerable families.
Present were also Honourable Dr Eugene Mutimura - Minister of Education, Honourable Rosemary Mbabazi - Minister of Youth, CG Gasana Emmanuel - Governor of the Southern Province, Mayor Erasme Ntazinda of Nyanza District, Mr Fodé Ndiaye - Resident Coordinator of ONE UN Rwanda, as well as other Imbuto Foundation partners.
naufragios
"There is nothing built on stone. Everything is built on sand. But it is our duty to edify as if the sand should be stone"
I have been to St Mary of Charity before. But that was many years ago.
Back then, I took three shots inside. I took 300 today.
St Mary is a huge church with a Victorian tower with the most amazing spire, which makes it visible from just about all over the town.
Faversham is best know as being home to Shepherd Neame brewery, it claims to the England's oldest surviving brewer.
The town sits on the edge of the Swale, with a large expanse of marshes and creeks between the town and open water.
We parked on wide Abbey Street, and while Jools went shopping, I walked along side the old brewery buildings to the church, with the tower and spire staight ahead along a street of terraced houses.
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An extraordinary building comprising a medieval chancel and transepts, eighteenth-century nave and nineteenth-century tower and spire. Despite heavy-handed restorations of the nineteenth century - by Sir George Gilbert Scott and Ewan Christian in 1873 - which have resulted in loss of character, there is much to see. The fourteenth-century transepts are aisled - a most unusual feature in an ordinary parish church. The medieval authorities probably decided to invest in a lavish building to counteract the pulling power of the famous abbey which stood to the east. One of the pillars of the north transept has a series of contemporary small paintings of biblical scenes. You are advised to take a pair of binoculars to see them to advantage. The stalls in the chancel have misericords with a good selection of carved armrests, and there is also a crypt and an unforgettable east window of 1911.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Faversham+1
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THE PARISH AND TOWN OF FAVERSHAM.
CALLED, according to Lambarde, in Saxon, Fafresham, and Fafresfeld, in the record of Domesday, Favershant, and in some few others, Fefresham.
THE PARISH lies adjoining to the high London road southward at the 47th mile-stone, and extends to the creek on the opposite side of the town, the houses on the south side of which reach to within two hundred yards of the road, whence there is a good view into it.
The parish includes the north side of the London road from the above mile-stone westward, almost as far as the summit of Judde-hill, and the liberties of the town extend as far of this space westward as the rivulet in Ospringe street. Thus this parish intervenes, and entirely separates that part of Ospringe parish, at the northern boundary of it, in which are the storekeeper's house of the royal mills, and part of the offices and gardens belonging to it, and some of the mills themselves, and in the town likewise, Ospringe parish again intervening, there is a small part of West-street which is within that parish. At the east end of Ospringe-street, though within Faversham parish, and the liberties of the town, close to the high London road, there is a handsome new-built house, erected not many years since by Mr.Bonnick Lypyeatt, who resided in it till his death in 1789. He left two daughters his coheirs, one of whom married Mr.C.Brooke, of London, and the other Captain Gosselin, of the Life-guards. It is now occupied by John Mayor, esq.
¶The rest, or northern part of the parish lies very low, and adjoins the marshes, of which there is a very large tract. The country here is a fine extended level, the fields of a considerable size, and mostly unincumbered with trees or hedgerows, the lands being perhaps as fertile and as highly cultivated as any within this county, being part of that fruitful value extending almost from Sittingborne to Boughton Blean, so often taken notice of before. The grounds adjoining the upper parts of the town are mostly hop plantations, of a rich and kindly growth, but several of them have lately given place to those of fruit. About twenty years ago the cultivation of madder was introduced here, and many induced by the prospect of great gains, made plantations of it at a very considerable expence, and a mill was erected for the purpose of grinding the roots, but from various disappointments, and unforeseen disadvantages, the undertakers of it were deterred from prosecuting the growth of it, and I believe they have for some time entirely discontinued it.
At the south-east extremity of this parish, as well as in other particular parts of this county, there are several chalk-pits, the most noted of these being called Hegdale pit, of a great depth, which though narrow at the top, yet more inward are very capacious, having, as it were, distinct rooms, supported by pillars of chalk. Several opinions have been formed concerning the intent and use of them, some that they were formed by the digging of chalk, for the building of the abbey, as well as afterwards from time to time, for the manuring of the neighbouring lands; others that the English Saxons might dig them, for the same uses that the Germans did, from whom they were descended, who made use of them, according to Tacitus, as a refuge in winter, as a repository for their corn, and as a place of security, for themselves, their families, and their property, from the searches of their enemies. (fn. 1)
Near the west end of the bridge, opposite the storekeeper's house of the royal powder-mills, there is a strong chalybeate spring, which on trial has been proved to be nearly equal to those of Tunbridge Wells. (fn. 2)
In the year 1774, a most remarkable fish, called mola salviani, orthe sun-fish, was caught on Faversham Flats, which weighed about nineteen pounds and a half, and was about two feet diameter. It is a fish very rarely seen in our narrow seas. (fn. 3)
THE TOWN ITSELF, and so much of the parish as is within the bounds of the corporation, is subject to the liberties of it, and of the cinque ports, and is exempt from the jurisdiction of the hundred of Faversham; but the rest of the parish, together with the rectory, is within the liberties of that hundred, which has been always esteemed as appurtenant to the manor of Faversham.
Although from the several discoveries which have been made of Roman antiquities in this neighbourhood, it is plain, that it could not be unknown to that nation, during their stay in this island, yet there is no mention made of this place by any writer during that period; and it seems, even in the time of the Saxons, to have been a place of but little consequence, notwithstanding it was then a part of the royal demesnes, as appears by a charter of Cenulph, king of Mercia, anno 812, wherein it is stiled the king's little town of Fefresham; and in one of Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons and of Kent, anno 839, where it is said to be made, only, in villa de Faverisham. However, it was of note sufficient, perhaps as being the king's estate, even in the time of king Alfred, at the first division of this county into those smaller districts, to give name to the hundred in which it is situated. Lambarde, Camden, and Leland say, that king Athelstan held a parliament, or meeting of his wife menat Faversham, about the year 903, (no doubt for 930) in which several laws were enacted. (fn. 8)
FAVERSHAM continued part of the antient demesnes of the crown of this realm at the time of the taking of the general survey of Domesday, in which it is entered, under the general title of Terra Regis, that is, the king's antient demesne, as follows:
In the lath of Wivarlet, in Favreshant hundred, king William holds Favreshant. It was taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is seventeen carucates. In demesne there are two. There are thirty villeins, with forty borderers, having twenty-four carucates. There are five servants, and one mill of twenty shillings, and two acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of one hundred hogs, and of the pasture of the wood thirty-one shillings and two pence. A market of four pounds, and two salt-pits of three shillings and two-pence, and in the city of Canterbury, there are three houses of twenty-pence belonging to this manor. In the whole value, in the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth sixty pounds all but five shillings, and afterwards sixty pounds, and now it is worth four times twenty pounds.
¶The manor of Faversham, with the hundred appurtenant to it, remained part of the possessions of the crown till about the beginning of king Stephen's reign, when it was granted to William de Ipre, a foreigner, whom, for his faithful services against the empress Maud, the king, in his 7th year, created Earl of Kent; but within a few years afterwards, resolving to found an abbey here, he, with his queen Matilda, about the year 1147, exchanged the manor of Lillechirch, and other premises, for this manor and hundred, where they, at the latter end of that year, or the beginning of the year after, founded an abbey at a small distance from the town of Faversham, on the north-east side of it, for the space where Court, or Ab bey-street now stands was then unbuilt, and this was therefore, in the reign of Edward III. distinguished by the name of the New Town, as the rest of it, built before, was by that of the Old Town, and they appointed Clarembald, the prior of Bermondsey, to be abbot of this new foundation, which was dedicated to St. Saviour, and for their support, the king granted to him and the monks of it, twelve of whom had been removed with Clarembald for this purpose from Bermondsey, which priory was of the order of Clugni, the manor of Faversham, with its appurtenances, and other premises, in perpetual alms, with many liberties, as may be further seen in the charter itself. (fn. 9)
HE TOWN OF FAVERSHAM is within the limits of the cinque ports, being esteemed as a limb or member of the town of Dover, one of those ports. Of what antiquity these ports and antient towns are, when enfranchised, or at what times their members were annexed to them, has not been as yet, with any certainty, discovered; and, therefore, they are held to enjoy all their earliest liberties and privileges, as time out of mind, and by prescription.
It is, however certain, that at the time of king Edward the Consessor, the five ports were enfranchised with divers liberties, privileges, and customs, peculiar to themselves; for the better conducting of which they had the establishment of one grand court, called the court of Shipway, from its being almost always held at a place of that name near Hyth; in which the general business relating to the whole community was transacted before the warden, as principal and chief over them. Nevertheless, though they acted here jointly, like a county palatine as to the government, for the desence of the liberty of the whole, yet every particular corporation in each town acted severally and distinctly, according to its own privileges, charters, and customs within their own particular limits, without any controul or interference from this court, or the rest of the community. (fn. 20)
The five ports, as being from their situation most exposed to the depredations of enemies, were first incorporated for their own mutual defence, and were afterwards endowed with great privileges, for the public desence of the nation, and the king's service. The force they were enjoined to raise and keep in residence for this purpose was fifty-seven ships, properly furnished and accoutred for a certain number of days, to be ready at the king's summons, at their own charge, and if the state of affairs required their assistance any longer, they were paid by the crown. But because the expence was in after times found to be too burthensome for these five ports, several other towns were added as members to them, that they might bear a part of the charge, for which they were recompenced with a participation of their privileges and immunities. All which were confirmed to them by Magna Charta, by the name of the barons of the five ports, and again by one general charter by king Edward I. which, by inspeximus, has received confirmation, and sometimes additions, from most of the succeeding kings and queens of this realm.
¶FAVERSHAM, stiled both a town and a port at different times in antient records, isa corporation by prescription. In the oldest charter now remaining, which is that of the 36th year of king Henry III. wherein the members of it are stiled, according to the usual language of those times, barons, that is freemen, there is contained a confirmation of all their former antient rights and privileges. In the 42d year of the above reign, which is as far as can be traced by evidence, the jurisdiction of this town was then in a mayor or alderman, and twelve jurats. In a charter of Edward I. the barons of it are acknowledged to have done good services to him and his predecessors, kings of England; and in the 21st year of that reign, there is an entry of the mayor and jurats assembling in their hallmote, or portmote-court, as it is elsewhere called, together with the lord abbot's steward, and there sealing a fine with the town's seal, of a messuage and garden in Faversham, according to the use and custom of the court, by which it is evident, that this court was of some antiquity at that time. (fn. 21)
Faversham is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Ospringe.
The church, which stands close to the east side of the town, was dedicated to the assumption of our lady of Faversham. It is built in the form of a cross, of flints, with quoins of ashler stone. It had, until 1755, when it was taken down, a large square castellated tower in the middle of it, and there remains now another low tower at the north side of the west front, upon which is erected a frame of timber, covered with shingles. So long ago as king Henry the VIIth.'s reign, there seems to have been no steeple to this church, for in 1464, Edward Thomasson, of this town, gave sixty pounds towards the edifying of a new one to it; (fn. 31) and of later time, James Lawson, esq. a wealthy inhabitant of this town, who died in 1794, gave by his will 1000l. for the same purpose, with this sum, together with 500l. given by the corporation, and the remainder payable by a rate, a steeple, seventy-three feet high above the tower, with pinnacles at each corner of it, on the plan of St. Dunstan's in the East, has been erected, and is now nearly compleated, at the expence of 2500l.
Behind the tower, within the outer walls, is a strong timbered room, formerly called the tresory, in which, before the reformation, were carefully deposited the goods and ornaments of the church; over it was the chamber for the sextons. On the south side of the west front is a room, formerly open to the church, in which was taught reading and writing; under it is a neat chapel, with stone arches, supported by three pillars in the middle. Over the south porch there is another stone room, the window of which is grated with strong iron bars.
Mr. Henry Hatch, whose extensive charity to this town has already been mentioned, by will in 1533, gave a sum of money, at the discretion of the mayor, and his brethren, in making a new jewel-house for this church.
In 1440 there were placed in it five new bells, and in 1459 a sixth was added; these remained till 1749, when they were cast into a new peal of eight.
The church seems to have been built in the latter end of the reign of Edward I. or the beginning of the reign of Edward II. by a silver penny of one of those kings being found under the basis of one of the piers, which supported the middle tower. In the east window of the great chancel, were some time since remaining two shields of arms, viz. Gules, two lions passant-guardant, or a label of five points, azure; and Argent, a lion rampant, sable, within a bordure of the second, bezante.
In the year 1754, the body of the church, as well as the roof of it, on a survey, being deemed in a dangerous state, a faculty was obtained to pull it down, which was accordingly done, under the plan and directions of Mr. George Dance, of London, architect, at the expence of 2300l. besides which, 400l. was afterwards expended in an organ, and 100l. more in other ornaments, and ninety pounds in improving the great chancel, which through age was become very unsightly; so that the whole of it is now made equal to, if not the most elegant and spacious, of any parish church in this county, and is extensive and spacious enough to afford convenient room for all the parishioners of it.
¶When this church was new built, and the body and isles new paved, the grave-stones, many of which were antient, with brasses on them, were removed from the places where they lay, to other open and consipicuous parts of it. Among the monuments were those for Henry Hatche, merchant adventurer, 1533; Thomas Mendfield, 1614, John Fagg, esq. 1508, and one for Thomas Southouse, esq. 1558, who wrote the Monas tion Favershamiense. Both monuments and epitaphs are by far too numerous to insert in this place, they may be found at large in Weever's Funeral Monuments, in Lewis's Appendix to his History of Faversham Abbey, and in Harris's History of Kent. Besides which there is in the Appendix to Jacob's History of Faversham, a chronological list of such persons as have been known to have been buried in it.
This church measures from east to west, including the chancel, one hundred and sixty feet, the width of the body sixty five feet; the length of the isles from north to south one hundred and twenty-four feet, and their width forty-six feet.
Before the reformation, besides the high altar in the great chancel, there were two chapels, one dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the other to St. Thomas, and there were several altars in the isles and chancels.
I have been to St Mary of Charity before. But that was many years ago.
Back then, I took three shots inside. I took 300 today.
St Mary is a huge church with a Victorian tower with the most amazing spire, which makes it visible from just about all over the town.
Faversham is best know as being home to Shepherd Neame brewery, it claims to the England's oldest surviving brewer.
The town sits on the edge of the Swale, with a large expanse of marshes and creeks between the town and open water.
We parked on wide Abbey Street, and while Jools went shopping, I walked along side the old brewery buildings to the church, with the tower and spire straight ahead along a street of terraced houses.
The church was open, though I got shouted at for not closing the glass door properly. This was from the group of people partaking in the weekly coffee morning.
The looked at me as I went round the large church, snapping details and marvelling at the single painted pillar.
--------------------------------------------
An extraordinary building comprising a medieval chancel and transepts, eighteenth-century nave and nineteenth-century tower and spire. Despite heavy-handed restorations of the nineteenth century - by Sir George Gilbert Scott and Ewan Christian in 1873 - which have resulted in loss of character, there is much to see. The fourteenth-century transepts are aisled - a most unusual feature in an ordinary parish church. The medieval authorities probably decided to invest in a lavish building to counteract the pulling power of the famous abbey which stood to the east. One of the pillars of the north transept has a series of contemporary small paintings of biblical scenes. You are advised to take a pair of binoculars to see them to advantage. The stalls in the chancel have misericords with a good selection of carved armrests, and there is also a crypt and an unforgettable east window of 1911.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Faversham+1
-------------------------------------------
THE PARISH AND TOWN OF FAVERSHAM.
CALLED, according to Lambarde, in Saxon, Fafresham, and Fafresfeld, in the record of Domesday, Favershant, and in some few others, Fefresham.
THE PARISH lies adjoining to the high London road southward at the 47th mile-stone, and extends to the creek on the opposite side of the town, the houses on the south side of which reach to within two hundred yards of the road, whence there is a good view into it.
The parish includes the north side of the London road from the above mile-stone westward, almost as far as the summit of Judde-hill, and the liberties of the town extend as far of this space westward as the rivulet in Ospringe street. Thus this parish intervenes, and entirely separates that part of Ospringe parish, at the northern boundary of it, in which are the storekeeper's house of the royal mills, and part of the offices and gardens belonging to it, and some of the mills themselves, and in the town likewise, Ospringe parish again intervening, there is a small part of West-street which is within that parish. At the east end of Ospringe-street, though within Faversham parish, and the liberties of the town, close to the high London road, there is a handsome new-built house, erected not many years since by Mr.Bonnick Lypyeatt, who resided in it till his death in 1789. He left two daughters his coheirs, one of whom married Mr.C.Brooke, of London, and the other Captain Gosselin, of the Life-guards. It is now occupied by John Mayor, esq.
¶The rest, or northern part of the parish lies very low, and adjoins the marshes, of which there is a very large tract. The country here is a fine extended level, the fields of a considerable size, and mostly unincumbered with trees or hedgerows, the lands being perhaps as fertile and as highly cultivated as any within this county, being part of that fruitful value extending almost from Sittingborne to Boughton Blean, so often taken notice of before. The grounds adjoining the upper parts of the town are mostly hop plantations, of a rich and kindly growth, but several of them have lately given place to those of fruit. About twenty years ago the cultivation of madder was introduced here, and many induced by the prospect of great gains, made plantations of it at a very considerable expence, and a mill was erected for the purpose of grinding the roots, but from various disappointments, and unforeseen disadvantages, the undertakers of it were deterred from prosecuting the growth of it, and I believe they have for some time entirely discontinued it.
At the south-east extremity of this parish, as well as in other particular parts of this county, there are several chalk-pits, the most noted of these being called Hegdale pit, of a great depth, which though narrow at the top, yet more inward are very capacious, having, as it were, distinct rooms, supported by pillars of chalk. Several opinions have been formed concerning the intent and use of them, some that they were formed by the digging of chalk, for the building of the abbey, as well as afterwards from time to time, for the manuring of the neighbouring lands; others that the English Saxons might dig them, for the same uses that the Germans did, from whom they were descended, who made use of them, according to Tacitus, as a refuge in winter, as a repository for their corn, and as a place of security, for themselves, their families, and their property, from the searches of their enemies. (fn. 1)
Near the west end of the bridge, opposite the storekeeper's house of the royal powder-mills, there is a strong chalybeate spring, which on trial has been proved to be nearly equal to those of Tunbridge Wells. (fn. 2)
In the year 1774, a most remarkable fish, called mola salviani, orthe sun-fish, was caught on Faversham Flats, which weighed about nineteen pounds and a half, and was about two feet diameter. It is a fish very rarely seen in our narrow seas. (fn. 3)
THE TOWN ITSELF, and so much of the parish as is within the bounds of the corporation, is subject to the liberties of it, and of the cinque ports, and is exempt from the jurisdiction of the hundred of Faversham; but the rest of the parish, together with the rectory, is within the liberties of that hundred, which has been always esteemed as appurtenant to the manor of Faversham.
Although from the several discoveries which have been made of Roman antiquities in this neighbourhood, it is plain, that it could not be unknown to that nation, during their stay in this island, yet there is no mention made of this place by any writer during that period; and it seems, even in the time of the Saxons, to have been a place of but little consequence, notwithstanding it was then a part of the royal demesnes, as appears by a charter of Cenulph, king of Mercia, anno 812, wherein it is stiled the king's little town of Fefresham; and in one of Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons and of Kent, anno 839, where it is said to be made, only, in villa de Faverisham. However, it was of note sufficient, perhaps as being the king's estate, even in the time of king Alfred, at the first division of this county into those smaller districts, to give name to the hundred in which it is situated. Lambarde, Camden, and Leland say, that king Athelstan held a parliament, or meeting of his wife menat Faversham, about the year 903, (no doubt for 930) in which several laws were enacted. (fn. 8)
FAVERSHAM continued part of the antient demesnes of the crown of this realm at the time of the taking of the general survey of Domesday, in which it is entered, under the general title of Terra Regis, that is, the king's antient demesne, as follows:
In the lath of Wivarlet, in Favreshant hundred, king William holds Favreshant. It was taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is seventeen carucates. In demesne there are two. There are thirty villeins, with forty borderers, having twenty-four carucates. There are five servants, and one mill of twenty shillings, and two acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of one hundred hogs, and of the pasture of the wood thirty-one shillings and two pence. A market of four pounds, and two salt-pits of three shillings and two-pence, and in the city of Canterbury, there are three houses of twenty-pence belonging to this manor. In the whole value, in the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth sixty pounds all but five shillings, and afterwards sixty pounds, and now it is worth four times twenty pounds.
¶The manor of Faversham, with the hundred appurtenant to it, remained part of the possessions of the crown till about the beginning of king Stephen's reign, when it was granted to William de Ipre, a foreigner, whom, for his faithful services against the empress Maud, the king, in his 7th year, created Earl of Kent; but within a few years afterwards, resolving to found an abbey here, he, with his queen Matilda, about the year 1147, exchanged the manor of Lillechirch, and other premises, for this manor and hundred, where they, at the latter end of that year, or the beginning of the year after, founded an abbey at a small distance from the town of Faversham, on the north-east side of it, for the space where Court, or Ab bey-street now stands was then unbuilt, and this was therefore, in the reign of Edward III. distinguished by the name of the New Town, as the rest of it, built before, was by that of the Old Town, and they appointed Clarembald, the prior of Bermondsey, to be abbot of this new foundation, which was dedicated to St. Saviour, and for their support, the king granted to him and the monks of it, twelve of whom had been removed with Clarembald for this purpose from Bermondsey, which priory was of the order of Clugni, the manor of Faversham, with its appurtenances, and other premises, in perpetual alms, with many liberties, as may be further seen in the charter itself. (fn. 9)
HE TOWN OF FAVERSHAM is within the limits of the cinque ports, being esteemed as a limb or member of the town of Dover, one of those ports. Of what antiquity these ports and antient towns are, when enfranchised, or at what times their members were annexed to them, has not been as yet, with any certainty, discovered; and, therefore, they are held to enjoy all their earliest liberties and privileges, as time out of mind, and by prescription.
It is, however certain, that at the time of king Edward the Consessor, the five ports were enfranchised with divers liberties, privileges, and customs, peculiar to themselves; for the better conducting of which they had the establishment of one grand court, called the court of Shipway, from its being almost always held at a place of that name near Hyth; in which the general business relating to the whole community was transacted before the warden, as principal and chief over them. Nevertheless, though they acted here jointly, like a county palatine as to the government, for the desence of the liberty of the whole, yet every particular corporation in each town acted severally and distinctly, according to its own privileges, charters, and customs within their own particular limits, without any controul or interference from this court, or the rest of the community. (fn. 20)
The five ports, as being from their situation most exposed to the depredations of enemies, were first incorporated for their own mutual defence, and were afterwards endowed with great privileges, for the public desence of the nation, and the king's service. The force they were enjoined to raise and keep in residence for this purpose was fifty-seven ships, properly furnished and accoutred for a certain number of days, to be ready at the king's summons, at their own charge, and if the state of affairs required their assistance any longer, they were paid by the crown. But because the expence was in after times found to be too burthensome for these five ports, several other towns were added as members to them, that they might bear a part of the charge, for which they were recompenced with a participation of their privileges and immunities. All which were confirmed to them by Magna Charta, by the name of the barons of the five ports, and again by one general charter by king Edward I. which, by inspeximus, has received confirmation, and sometimes additions, from most of the succeeding kings and queens of this realm.
¶FAVERSHAM, stiled both a town and a port at different times in antient records, isa corporation by prescription. In the oldest charter now remaining, which is that of the 36th year of king Henry III. wherein the members of it are stiled, according to the usual language of those times, barons, that is freemen, there is contained a confirmation of all their former antient rights and privileges. In the 42d year of the above reign, which is as far as can be traced by evidence, the jurisdiction of this town was then in a mayor or alderman, and twelve jurats. In a charter of Edward I. the barons of it are acknowledged to have done good services to him and his predecessors, kings of England; and in the 21st year of that reign, there is an entry of the mayor and jurats assembling in their hallmote, or portmote-court, as it is elsewhere called, together with the lord abbot's steward, and there sealing a fine with the town's seal, of a messuage and garden in Faversham, according to the use and custom of the court, by which it is evident, that this court was of some antiquity at that time. (fn. 21)
Faversham is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Ospringe.
The church, which stands close to the east side of the town, was dedicated to the assumption of our lady of Faversham. It is built in the form of a cross, of flints, with quoins of ashler stone. It had, until 1755, when it was taken down, a large square castellated tower in the middle of it, and there remains now another low tower at the north side of the west front, upon which is erected a frame of timber, covered with shingles. So long ago as king Henry the VIIth.'s reign, there seems to have been no steeple to this church, for in 1464, Edward Thomasson, of this town, gave sixty pounds towards the edifying of a new one to it; (fn. 31) and of later time, James Lawson, esq. a wealthy inhabitant of this town, who died in 1794, gave by his will 1000l. for the same purpose, with this sum, together with 500l. given by the corporation, and the remainder payable by a rate, a steeple, seventy-three feet high above the tower, with pinnacles at each corner of it, on the plan of St. Dunstan's in the East, has been erected, and is now nearly compleated, at the expence of 2500l.
Behind the tower, within the outer walls, is a strong timbered room, formerly called the tresory, in which, before the reformation, were carefully deposited the goods and ornaments of the church; over it was the chamber for the sextons. On the south side of the west front is a room, formerly open to the church, in which was taught reading and writing; under it is a neat chapel, with stone arches, supported by three pillars in the middle. Over the south porch there is another stone room, the window of which is grated with strong iron bars.
Mr. Henry Hatch, whose extensive charity to this town has already been mentioned, by will in 1533, gave a sum of money, at the discretion of the mayor, and his brethren, in making a new jewel-house for this church.
In 1440 there were placed in it five new bells, and in 1459 a sixth was added; these remained till 1749, when they were cast into a new peal of eight.
The church seems to have been built in the latter end of the reign of Edward I. or the beginning of the reign of Edward II. by a silver penny of one of those kings being found under the basis of one of the piers, which supported the middle tower. In the east window of the great chancel, were some time since remaining two shields of arms, viz. Gules, two lions passant-guardant, or a label of five points, azure; and Argent, a lion rampant, sable, within a bordure of the second, bezante.
In the year 1754, the body of the church, as well as the roof of it, on a survey, being deemed in a dangerous state, a faculty was obtained to pull it down, which was accordingly done, under the plan and directions of Mr. George Dance, of London, architect, at the expence of 2300l. besides which, 400l. was afterwards expended in an organ, and 100l. more in other ornaments, and ninety pounds in improving the great chancel, which through age was become very unsightly; so that the whole of it is now made equal to, if not the most elegant and spacious, of any parish church in this county, and is extensive and spacious enough to afford convenient room for all the parishioners of it.
¶When this church was new built, and the body and isles new paved, the grave-stones, many of which were antient, with brasses on them, were removed from the places where they lay, to other open and consipicuous parts of it. Among the monuments were those for Henry Hatche, merchant adventurer, 1533; Thomas Mendfield, 1614, John Fagg, esq. 1508, and one for Thomas Southouse, esq. 1558, who wrote the Monas tion Favershamiense. Both monuments and epitaphs are by far too numerous to insert in this place, they may be found at large in Weever's Funeral Monuments, in Lewis's Appendix to his History of Faversham Abbey, and in Harris's History of Kent. Besides which there is in the Appendix to Jacob's History of Faversham, a chronological list of such persons as have been known to have been buried in it.
This church measures from east to west, including the chancel, one hundred and sixty feet, the width of the body sixty five feet; the length of the isles from north to south one hundred and twenty-four feet, and their width forty-six feet.
Before the reformation, besides the high altar in the great chancel, there were two chapels, one dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the other to St. Thomas, and there were several altars in the isles and chancels.
I have been to St Mary of Charity before. But that was many years ago.
Back then, I took three shots inside. I took 300 today.
St Mary is a huge church with a Victorian tower with the most amazing spire, which makes it visible from just about all over the town.
Faversham is best know as being home to Shepherd Neame brewery, it claims to the England's oldest surviving brewer.
The town sits on the edge of the Swale, with a large expanse of marshes and creeks between the town and open water.
We parked on wide Abbey Street, and while Jools went shopping, I walked along side the old brewery buildings to the church, with the tower and spire straight ahead along a street of terraced houses.
The church was open, though I got shouted at for not closing the glass door properly. This was from the group of people partaking in the weekly coffee morning.
The looked at me as I went round the large church, snapping details and marvelling at the single painted pillar.
--------------------------------------------
An extraordinary building comprising a medieval chancel and transepts, eighteenth-century nave and nineteenth-century tower and spire. Despite heavy-handed restorations of the nineteenth century - by Sir George Gilbert Scott and Ewan Christian in 1873 - which have resulted in loss of character, there is much to see. The fourteenth-century transepts are aisled - a most unusual feature in an ordinary parish church. The medieval authorities probably decided to invest in a lavish building to counteract the pulling power of the famous abbey which stood to the east. One of the pillars of the north transept has a series of contemporary small paintings of biblical scenes. You are advised to take a pair of binoculars to see them to advantage. The stalls in the chancel have misericords with a good selection of carved armrests, and there is also a crypt and an unforgettable east window of 1911.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Faversham+1
-------------------------------------------
THE PARISH AND TOWN OF FAVERSHAM.
CALLED, according to Lambarde, in Saxon, Fafresham, and Fafresfeld, in the record of Domesday, Favershant, and in some few others, Fefresham.
THE PARISH lies adjoining to the high London road southward at the 47th mile-stone, and extends to the creek on the opposite side of the town, the houses on the south side of which reach to within two hundred yards of the road, whence there is a good view into it.
The parish includes the north side of the London road from the above mile-stone westward, almost as far as the summit of Judde-hill, and the liberties of the town extend as far of this space westward as the rivulet in Ospringe street. Thus this parish intervenes, and entirely separates that part of Ospringe parish, at the northern boundary of it, in which are the storekeeper's house of the royal mills, and part of the offices and gardens belonging to it, and some of the mills themselves, and in the town likewise, Ospringe parish again intervening, there is a small part of West-street which is within that parish. At the east end of Ospringe-street, though within Faversham parish, and the liberties of the town, close to the high London road, there is a handsome new-built house, erected not many years since by Mr.Bonnick Lypyeatt, who resided in it till his death in 1789. He left two daughters his coheirs, one of whom married Mr.C.Brooke, of London, and the other Captain Gosselin, of the Life-guards. It is now occupied by John Mayor, esq.
¶The rest, or northern part of the parish lies very low, and adjoins the marshes, of which there is a very large tract. The country here is a fine extended level, the fields of a considerable size, and mostly unincumbered with trees or hedgerows, the lands being perhaps as fertile and as highly cultivated as any within this county, being part of that fruitful value extending almost from Sittingborne to Boughton Blean, so often taken notice of before. The grounds adjoining the upper parts of the town are mostly hop plantations, of a rich and kindly growth, but several of them have lately given place to those of fruit. About twenty years ago the cultivation of madder was introduced here, and many induced by the prospect of great gains, made plantations of it at a very considerable expence, and a mill was erected for the purpose of grinding the roots, but from various disappointments, and unforeseen disadvantages, the undertakers of it were deterred from prosecuting the growth of it, and I believe they have for some time entirely discontinued it.
At the south-east extremity of this parish, as well as in other particular parts of this county, there are several chalk-pits, the most noted of these being called Hegdale pit, of a great depth, which though narrow at the top, yet more inward are very capacious, having, as it were, distinct rooms, supported by pillars of chalk. Several opinions have been formed concerning the intent and use of them, some that they were formed by the digging of chalk, for the building of the abbey, as well as afterwards from time to time, for the manuring of the neighbouring lands; others that the English Saxons might dig them, for the same uses that the Germans did, from whom they were descended, who made use of them, according to Tacitus, as a refuge in winter, as a repository for their corn, and as a place of security, for themselves, their families, and their property, from the searches of their enemies. (fn. 1)
Near the west end of the bridge, opposite the storekeeper's house of the royal powder-mills, there is a strong chalybeate spring, which on trial has been proved to be nearly equal to those of Tunbridge Wells. (fn. 2)
In the year 1774, a most remarkable fish, called mola salviani, orthe sun-fish, was caught on Faversham Flats, which weighed about nineteen pounds and a half, and was about two feet diameter. It is a fish very rarely seen in our narrow seas. (fn. 3)
THE TOWN ITSELF, and so much of the parish as is within the bounds of the corporation, is subject to the liberties of it, and of the cinque ports, and is exempt from the jurisdiction of the hundred of Faversham; but the rest of the parish, together with the rectory, is within the liberties of that hundred, which has been always esteemed as appurtenant to the manor of Faversham.
Although from the several discoveries which have been made of Roman antiquities in this neighbourhood, it is plain, that it could not be unknown to that nation, during their stay in this island, yet there is no mention made of this place by any writer during that period; and it seems, even in the time of the Saxons, to have been a place of but little consequence, notwithstanding it was then a part of the royal demesnes, as appears by a charter of Cenulph, king of Mercia, anno 812, wherein it is stiled the king's little town of Fefresham; and in one of Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons and of Kent, anno 839, where it is said to be made, only, in villa de Faverisham. However, it was of note sufficient, perhaps as being the king's estate, even in the time of king Alfred, at the first division of this county into those smaller districts, to give name to the hundred in which it is situated. Lambarde, Camden, and Leland say, that king Athelstan held a parliament, or meeting of his wife menat Faversham, about the year 903, (no doubt for 930) in which several laws were enacted. (fn. 8)
FAVERSHAM continued part of the antient demesnes of the crown of this realm at the time of the taking of the general survey of Domesday, in which it is entered, under the general title of Terra Regis, that is, the king's antient demesne, as follows:
In the lath of Wivarlet, in Favreshant hundred, king William holds Favreshant. It was taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is seventeen carucates. In demesne there are two. There are thirty villeins, with forty borderers, having twenty-four carucates. There are five servants, and one mill of twenty shillings, and two acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of one hundred hogs, and of the pasture of the wood thirty-one shillings and two pence. A market of four pounds, and two salt-pits of three shillings and two-pence, and in the city of Canterbury, there are three houses of twenty-pence belonging to this manor. In the whole value, in the time of king Edward the Confessor, it was worth sixty pounds all but five shillings, and afterwards sixty pounds, and now it is worth four times twenty pounds.
¶The manor of Faversham, with the hundred appurtenant to it, remained part of the possessions of the crown till about the beginning of king Stephen's reign, when it was granted to William de Ipre, a foreigner, whom, for his faithful services against the empress Maud, the king, in his 7th year, created Earl of Kent; but within a few years afterwards, resolving to found an abbey here, he, with his queen Matilda, about the year 1147, exchanged the manor of Lillechirch, and other premises, for this manor and hundred, where they, at the latter end of that year, or the beginning of the year after, founded an abbey at a small distance from the town of Faversham, on the north-east side of it, for the space where Court, or Ab bey-street now stands was then unbuilt, and this was therefore, in the reign of Edward III. distinguished by the name of the New Town, as the rest of it, built before, was by that of the Old Town, and they appointed Clarembald, the prior of Bermondsey, to be abbot of this new foundation, which was dedicated to St. Saviour, and for their support, the king granted to him and the monks of it, twelve of whom had been removed with Clarembald for this purpose from Bermondsey, which priory was of the order of Clugni, the manor of Faversham, with its appurtenances, and other premises, in perpetual alms, with many liberties, as may be further seen in the charter itself. (fn. 9)
HE TOWN OF FAVERSHAM is within the limits of the cinque ports, being esteemed as a limb or member of the town of Dover, one of those ports. Of what antiquity these ports and antient towns are, when enfranchised, or at what times their members were annexed to them, has not been as yet, with any certainty, discovered; and, therefore, they are held to enjoy all their earliest liberties and privileges, as time out of mind, and by prescription.
It is, however certain, that at the time of king Edward the Consessor, the five ports were enfranchised with divers liberties, privileges, and customs, peculiar to themselves; for the better conducting of which they had the establishment of one grand court, called the court of Shipway, from its being almost always held at a place of that name near Hyth; in which the general business relating to the whole community was transacted before the warden, as principal and chief over them. Nevertheless, though they acted here jointly, like a county palatine as to the government, for the desence of the liberty of the whole, yet every particular corporation in each town acted severally and distinctly, according to its own privileges, charters, and customs within their own particular limits, without any controul or interference from this court, or the rest of the community. (fn. 20)
The five ports, as being from their situation most exposed to the depredations of enemies, were first incorporated for their own mutual defence, and were afterwards endowed with great privileges, for the public desence of the nation, and the king's service. The force they were enjoined to raise and keep in residence for this purpose was fifty-seven ships, properly furnished and accoutred for a certain number of days, to be ready at the king's summons, at their own charge, and if the state of affairs required their assistance any longer, they were paid by the crown. But because the expence was in after times found to be too burthensome for these five ports, several other towns were added as members to them, that they might bear a part of the charge, for which they were recompenced with a participation of their privileges and immunities. All which were confirmed to them by Magna Charta, by the name of the barons of the five ports, and again by one general charter by king Edward I. which, by inspeximus, has received confirmation, and sometimes additions, from most of the succeeding kings and queens of this realm.
¶FAVERSHAM, stiled both a town and a port at different times in antient records, isa corporation by prescription. In the oldest charter now remaining, which is that of the 36th year of king Henry III. wherein the members of it are stiled, according to the usual language of those times, barons, that is freemen, there is contained a confirmation of all their former antient rights and privileges. In the 42d year of the above reign, which is as far as can be traced by evidence, the jurisdiction of this town was then in a mayor or alderman, and twelve jurats. In a charter of Edward I. the barons of it are acknowledged to have done good services to him and his predecessors, kings of England; and in the 21st year of that reign, there is an entry of the mayor and jurats assembling in their hallmote, or portmote-court, as it is elsewhere called, together with the lord abbot's steward, and there sealing a fine with the town's seal, of a messuage and garden in Faversham, according to the use and custom of the court, by which it is evident, that this court was of some antiquity at that time. (fn. 21)
Faversham is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Ospringe.
The church, which stands close to the east side of the town, was dedicated to the assumption of our lady of Faversham. It is built in the form of a cross, of flints, with quoins of ashler stone. It had, until 1755, when it was taken down, a large square castellated tower in the middle of it, and there remains now another low tower at the north side of the west front, upon which is erected a frame of timber, covered with shingles. So long ago as king Henry the VIIth.'s reign, there seems to have been no steeple to this church, for in 1464, Edward Thomasson, of this town, gave sixty pounds towards the edifying of a new one to it; (fn. 31) and of later time, James Lawson, esq. a wealthy inhabitant of this town, who died in 1794, gave by his will 1000l. for the same purpose, with this sum, together with 500l. given by the corporation, and the remainder payable by a rate, a steeple, seventy-three feet high above the tower, with pinnacles at each corner of it, on the plan of St. Dunstan's in the East, has been erected, and is now nearly compleated, at the expence of 2500l.
Behind the tower, within the outer walls, is a strong timbered room, formerly called the tresory, in which, before the reformation, were carefully deposited the goods and ornaments of the church; over it was the chamber for the sextons. On the south side of the west front is a room, formerly open to the church, in which was taught reading and writing; under it is a neat chapel, with stone arches, supported by three pillars in the middle. Over the south porch there is another stone room, the window of which is grated with strong iron bars.
Mr. Henry Hatch, whose extensive charity to this town has already been mentioned, by will in 1533, gave a sum of money, at the discretion of the mayor, and his brethren, in making a new jewel-house for this church.
In 1440 there were placed in it five new bells, and in 1459 a sixth was added; these remained till 1749, when they were cast into a new peal of eight.
The church seems to have been built in the latter end of the reign of Edward I. or the beginning of the reign of Edward II. by a silver penny of one of those kings being found under the basis of one of the piers, which supported the middle tower. In the east window of the great chancel, were some time since remaining two shields of arms, viz. Gules, two lions passant-guardant, or a label of five points, azure; and Argent, a lion rampant, sable, within a bordure of the second, bezante.
In the year 1754, the body of the church, as well as the roof of it, on a survey, being deemed in a dangerous state, a faculty was obtained to pull it down, which was accordingly done, under the plan and directions of Mr. George Dance, of London, architect, at the expence of 2300l. besides which, 400l. was afterwards expended in an organ, and 100l. more in other ornaments, and ninety pounds in improving the great chancel, which through age was become very unsightly; so that the whole of it is now made equal to, if not the most elegant and spacious, of any parish church in this county, and is extensive and spacious enough to afford convenient room for all the parishioners of it.
¶When this church was new built, and the body and isles new paved, the grave-stones, many of which were antient, with brasses on them, were removed from the places where they lay, to other open and consipicuous parts of it. Among the monuments were those for Henry Hatche, merchant adventurer, 1533; Thomas Mendfield, 1614, John Fagg, esq. 1508, and one for Thomas Southouse, esq. 1558, who wrote the Monas tion Favershamiense. Both monuments and epitaphs are by far too numerous to insert in this place, they may be found at large in Weever's Funeral Monuments, in Lewis's Appendix to his History of Faversham Abbey, and in Harris's History of Kent. Besides which there is in the Appendix to Jacob's History of Faversham, a chronological list of such persons as have been known to have been buried in it.
This church measures from east to west, including the chancel, one hundred and sixty feet, the width of the body sixty five feet; the length of the isles from north to south one hundred and twenty-four feet, and their width forty-six feet.
Before the reformation, besides the high altar in the great chancel, there were two chapels, one dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the other to St. Thomas, and there were several altars in the isles and chancels.
We had been to Hawkhurst before. About a decade ago when we stopped for breakfast on the way to Sissinghurst.
Despite we both thinking we had also been to Cranbrook, I have no memory, nor any photographs.
But the mill, said Jools sai.d I had no idea.
Whilst Hawkhurst was a busy but not pretty place, Cranbrook was just beautiful. The main road dipped down through rows of white clapboard houses and where it turned right 90 degrees, there on the highest point was the church.
It was midday, and I was hungry, and what I felt I needed was a cream tea. Just as well then that there was tea rooms opposite the car park.
A cream tea consisted of a pot of tea, another of hot water, milk and sugar, two scones each, cream and lashings of strawberry jam.
It was a meal.
Once we had eaten, I walk up the street and into the churchyard, where the sandy coloured church rose from the green churchyard.
Old Father Time stood above the tower clock, reminding us he would come for us soon enough.
But not today.
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This church grew from a small Saxo-Norman structure in the fourteenth century, using profits from the English cloth-making industry which was based in the town. It is a large church with several unique features, the most important of which is a font for full adult immersion. This was built under a small stone staircase that leads to a room over the south porch. In reality it was like an upright coffin, constructed in 1710 by the then parson, John Johnson, but it seems only to have been used on one occasion. There are very few of these features to be found in England. A table at the back of the church is made from the upturned sounding board of the eighteenth-century pulpit. The very fine carved Royal Arms of George II were given in 1756. In the north aisle is a collection of sixteenth-century stained glass depicting coats of arms of the Guilford family, and some nice windows by Kempe.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Cranbrook
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CRANBROOKE
LIES the next parish eastward from Goudhurst, a small part of it is in the north borough of the hundred of Great Barnefield, and another small part in the borough of Iborden, in the hundred of Barkley, and all the residue in the hundred of Cranbrooke. It is an the western division of the country.
THIS PARISH is situated in the centre of the Weald, of which it is a principal one as to its wealth, size, and consequence, being about eight miles long, and fix in breadth; it is exceeding healthy, and considering the deepness of the soil, and the frequency of the woods, far from being unpleasant; the oaks interpersed over it, like the adjoining country, are numerous and of a large size, the hedge-rows broad, and the inclosures small. The north and east parts especially are covered with woods, which consist mostly of oak. There are several rises of small hill and dale throughout it; the soil is in general, excepting in that part of it northward of the church, about Anglye, where it is a light sand, and the lands of course poor, a kindly fort of clay, which is rendered more fertile by its native rich marle, of which there is much throughout it; besides arable, there is much rich pasture and fatting land, and some hundred acres of good hop-ground. The principal high roads from London, Maidstone and Tunbridge, by Brenchley, Yalding, and Stylebridge, meet here near the town, and lead from hence by different branches to Tenterden and Romney Marsh; to Hawkhurst and Suffex, and to Smarden, Charing, and the eastern parts of Kent. They are wholly made with sand, and though in wet weather they are exceedingly firm and good, yet in dry seasons, from the looseness of the sand, they become very deep and heavy, and by the heat and dust arising from them, are so very offensive and painful, as to become almost intolerable; the bye roads are very bad in winter, and so very deep and miry, as to be but barely passable till they are hardened by the drouth of summer. It is well watered by several small Streamlets, the principal ones of which joint the branch of the Medway just below Hedcorne.
There are three chalybeate springs in the parish, at Sifinghurt, Glassenbury, and Anglye. The waters of them are much like those at Tunbridge, and when weighed prove heavier, but they have not near so much spirit. The town of Cranbrook is situated on the western side of the parish, on the road leading from Maidstone by Stylebridge towards Hawkhurst and Suffex. at the 52d mile-stone, and consists of one large wide street, of about a mile in length, having the church nearly in the centre of it. There is but a very small part of it paved, from the market-place eastward, which was begun in 1654, being done through mere necessity; the depends and mire of the soil before, being not only a great hindrance to the standing of the market people, but to the passing of all travellers in general. The market is still held on a Saturday, for corn and hops, and is a very plentiful one for meat and other provisions. It was obtained by archbishop Peckham, anno 18 Edward I. And there are two fairs held yearly, on May 30, and Sept. 29, for horned cattle, horses linen drapery, toys, &c. but the latter is the largest, at which there is a great deal of business done in the top trade.
¶Here was the centre of the cloathing trade, one of the pillars of the kingdom, which formerly flourished in these parts, and greatly enriched not only this county, but the nation in general. The occupation of it was formerly of considerables consequences and estimation, and was exercised by persons who possessed most of the landed property in the Weald, insomuch that almost all the antient families of these parts, now of large estates, and genteel rank in life, and some of them ennobled by titles, are sprung from, and owe their fortunes to ancestors who have used this great staple manufacture, now almost unknown here. Among others, the Bathursts, Ongleys, Courthopes. Maplesdens, Gibbons's, Westons, Plumers, Austens, Dunkes, and Stringers. They were usually called, from their dress, the grey coats of Kent, and were a body to numerous and united, that at county elections, whoever had their votes and interest was almost certain of being elected. It was first introduced here by king Edward III who, in his 10th year, invited some of the Flemings into England, by promises of large rewards, and grants of several immunities, to teach the English the cloth manufacture; but this trade, after flourishing here for so many centuries, is now almost disused in these parts, there being only two houses of it remaining in this parish; but there is yet some little of the woolstapling business carried on. The inhabitants throughout the parish, who are in general wealthy and substantial, are computed to be about 3000, of which a great part are differenters from the church of England, for whose use there are four meeting-houses in the town, one for Presbyterians, the second for Methodistical Baptists, the third for Cavinistical Baptists, and the fourth for Independants. The Presbyterians formerly were the most numerous fect throughout this county; but they are greatly diminished of late years, and the Methodistical Baptists are the prevailing sect, and greatly increasing every year, through every part of it. Besides these there is a meeting-house for the Quakers, with a burying ground, but I beleive there is not one of this fact in the parish, though they yet hold an annual meeting here.
SISSINGHURST is a manor of great note here. It was antiently called Saxenburst, and is very early times was in the possessions of a family of the same name, as appears by the Testa de Nevil, kept in the exchequer, being an account of all those who, holding their lands by knight's service, paid their relief, in the 20th year of Edward III. towards the marriage of the king's sister; in which John de Saxenhurst is there taxed, towards that did, for his lands at Cranebrook, which certainly were those of Sissinghurst, with the two small appendant manors of COPTON and STONE, which always have had the same owners. By a female heir of Saxenhurst, this manor, with its appendages above-mentioned, passed into the name of Berham. Richard, son of Henry de Berham, resided here in the reign of Edward III. and in his descendants it continued down till the latter end of Henry VII. When one of them alienated part of Sissinghurst, with Copton and Stone, to Thomas Baker, esq. who was before settled in this parish. This family had been settled in Cranbrooke so early as the reign of Edward III. as appears by the records of the court of king's bench, in the 44th year of which reign Thomas Bakere, of this parish, was possessed of lands in it, and was then fued by the prior of Christ-church in a plea of treaspass, for cutting down trees, which grew on his own soil here, in a place called Omendenneshok, within the prior's lodge of Cranbrooke, which was a drosdenne, the prior prescribing for all oak and beech in the drovedens within his lordship, together with the pannage; and the jury found for the plaintiff, &c. (fn. 5) Sir John Baker, grandson of Thomas first before-mentioned, was bred to the law, and became eminent in that profession, as well as in his promotion to different high posts of trust and honour in the service of the crown and state; being in several parts of his life recorder of London, attorney general, chancellor of the exchequer, and privy counsellor in king Henry VIII. and the three following reigns, and ambassador to the court of Denmark in 1526. He died in London in 1558, and was brought hither in great state, and buried in the vault in Cranbrooke church, in which his several descendants lie deposited likewise. They bore for their arms, Azure, on a fess, or, three cinquesoils pierced, gules, between three swans heads, erased, or gorged with coronets, gules. (fn. 6) He had procured his lands to be disgavelled by the acts both of 31 king Henry VIII. and 2 and 3 Edward VI. and before the latter year, at least, had purchased the remainder of this manor and estate, and becoming thus possessed of the entire fee of it, he built a most magnificent seat on it, the ruins of which still remind us of its former splendor, and he inclosed a large park round it. He left two sons, Richard; and John, who was father of Sir Richard Baker, the English Chronicler, and from this family likewise was descended the learned John Selden, born in 1584, whose mother was the only daughter and heir of Thomas Baker, of Rushington. (fn. 7) Sir Richard Baker, the eldest son, resided at Sissinghurst, where he entertained queen Elizabeth, in her progrels into this county, in July 1573. His eldest grandson Sir Henry Baker, of Sissinghurst, was created a baronet in 1611, Sir John Baker, of Sissinghurst, knight and baronet, his grandson, the last of his name here, died in 1661, leaving only four daughters, who became his coheirs, Anne, married to Edmund Beaghan, esq. Elizabeth, to Robert, Spencer, esq. Mary, to John Dowel, esq. of Over, in Gloucestershire, and Katherine, to Roger Kirkby, esq. whose respective husbands became in their rights jointly entitled to this estate.
A moiety of this estate, as well as two-thirds of it, by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. and by the conveyance of Catherine, widow of Roger Kirkby, afterwards coming into the possession of Edmund Hungate Beaghan, esq. (son of Edmund above-mentioned) who resided at Sissinghurst, and bore for his arms, Argent, a chevron, gules, within a bordure, sable, bezantee, were by him passed away by sale in 1730, an act having passed to enable him so to do, to the trustees of Sir Horace Mann, bart. who is the present possessor of them.
The fourth part of John Dowel, esq. came on his death in 1698, to his son John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, who bore for his arms, Argent, a lion rampant, within a bordure engrailed, sable. (fn. 8) He died possessed of it in 1738, as he likewise did of the remaining third of the fourth part, which had descended to him by the deaths of Robert Spencer, and Elizabeth his wife, s. p. in both which he was succeeded by his son John Baker Bridges Dowel, esq. of the same place. At this death in 1744, he devised his interest in this estate to the Rev. Staunton Degge, who conveyed them to Galfridus Mann, esq. whose son Sir Horace Mann, bart. being thus entitled to all the several interests as abovementioned in this estate, is become the possessor of the entire fee of these manors, the mansion of Sissinghurst, and the lands and estates belonging to them.
¶The mansion of Sissinghurst stands towards the northeast boundaries of this parish, in a situation far from pleasant, lying low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland. The house having been long uninhabited was let out during the late war for the confinement of the French prisoners, whence it gained the name of Sissingburst castle, after which it became again uninhabited, and has since been pulling down piecemeal from time to time, for the sake of the materials, so that what is left of it is now no more than ruins. The park has been disparked many years since. There was a chapel founded at Sissinghurst by John de Saxenhurst, which was re-edified by Sir John Baker, bart. in the reign of king Charles I. and by a deed delivered in 1627 to John Bancrost, bishop of Oxford, was devoted to the service of God, and dedicated, as it was before, to St. John the Evangelist; upon which it was consecrated by the bishop, with the usual ceremonies and benedictions.
CRANBROOKE is within the ECCLESTASTICAL. JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan, confessor, and is very large and handsome. It consists of three isles and three chancels. The pillars on each side of the middle isle are beautifully slender and well proportioned. The west end has a gallery over it, ornamented with printing. The pews are uniform, and made of wainscot, and the pavement black and white marble. The high chancel is well ceiled, and decorated with paintings. The east window is full of fine stained glass, many of the rigures of it being entire, and richly ornamented as to their drapery, &c. There are several shields of arms remaining in it, among which are those of Wilsford, Guldeford, quartered with Halden, within the order of the garter, and archbishop Bourchier, being those of the see of Canterbury, impaling first and fourth, Bouchier, second and third, gules, a fess between twelve billets, or. Archbishop Tenison, in 1710, was a benefactor in repairing of the high chancel. (fn. 12) Against the east wall of the south chancel is a very high and broad pyramid of white marble, on which there is a full account of the family of Roberts, inscribed by a most pompous scheme of pedigree, with the numerous coats of arms properly emblazoned. At the west end is a square tower steeple, in which are eight bells and a set of chimes. On the west side of the tower were formerly carved in the stone-work, though now decayed by time, the arms of Berham, Bectenham and Wilsford, in antient times owners of lands, as has been already mentioned, in this parish. In the south isle over the vault, in which the remains of the Bakers and their descendants lie, is a superb pyramid of white, marble, on which are the names and the dates of their deaths, and at the top of it their arms. It was erected by John Baker Dowel, esq. of Over, son of John and Mary, in 1736.
In 1725, part of this church fell down, but was quickly afterwards rebuilt. It was occasioned by some persons digging in the vault belonging to the Baker family, by which two stones, on which one of the main pillars stood, gave way, and the pillar cracked, soon after thirty or forty feet of the middle isle fell in, by which the pews were all crushed, and the cost to repair it was estimated at near 2000l. There is a room; with a staircase to it, adjoining the church, in which there is a large dipping-place, for the use of such Baptists who are desirous of being admitted into the established church; but in seventy years past it has been but twice made use of for this purpose. It was provided by Mr. Johnson, vicar of this church. In this church was a chantry, founded by the will of J. Roberts, esq. of Glassenbury, in 1460, for a priest to say mass here for ever. And he ordered that twenty pounds be laid out to remove the rood-lost, and setting it on the high chancel. And being so considerable a benefactor to this church, his figure was painted in the windows of the north isle, kneeling, in armour, with his helmet lying by him, before a desk, with a book on it, and an inscription, to pray for him and his wife, and his son Walter, and his three wives. Walter Roberts abovementioned, by his will 13 Henry VIII. directed Thomas his son to find a priest to celebrate divine service at St. Giles's altar in this church, for the souls of his father, mother, his wives, and his own; for which service he should have been marcs yearly, payable by his heirs for ever, out of his lands in this parish and Goudhurst. And he gave further to this church towards the making of the middle isle, one half of all the timber of that work.
The church of Cranbrooke was part of the antient possessions of the see of Canterbury, to which it was appropriated in the 6th year of Edward III. with the king's licence; and the same was afterwards confirmed by pope Clement VI. at which time there appears to have been a vicarage endowed here. The archbishop continued owner of the appropriation of this rectory, and of the advowson of the vicarage till the reign of Henry VIII. when archbishop Cranmer, by his deed, anno 31 Henry VIII. granted the rectory, among other premises, in exchange, to that king, reserving the advowson of the vicarage to himself and his successors. Soon after which the king settled it by his dotation charter, in his 33d year, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, part of whose possessions it now remains. (fn. 13) In 1644 Sir John Roberts was lessee, at the rent of 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum. The present lessee is Mrs. Lawson.
¶When the vicarage of Cranbrooke was endowed, I have not found; but in 1364 and 1371, the portion of the vicar was augmented, and in the latter year the prior and convent of Christ-church, Canterbury, confirmed the confirmation of archbishop William, of the donation of his predecessor archbishop Simon, of 6000 of towod granted to the vicar of Cranbrooke, of the tenths, of silve cedue belonging to the church of Cranbrooke.
It is valued in the king's books at 19l. 19s. 4½d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 19s. 11¾d. In 1578 here were 1905 communicants. On a survey taken in 1648, after the abolition of deans and chapters, it appeared that there was a parsonage-house, an orchard, little garden, two great barns, and other buildings; and that the late dean and chapter, in 1636, demised to John Roberts, esq. these premises, and all manner of tithes of corn and grass, for twenty-one years, at 33l. 6s. 8d. per annum, but that they were worth, over and above that rent, 228l. 13s. 4d. per annum. The lessees to repair the chancel and the market-cross of the town.
There is no part of this parish which claims an exemption of tithes; but there is a small and irregular modus upon all the lands in it, in lieu of vicarial tithes. There are no tithes paid Specifically for hops, though there are upwards of six hundred acres planted in this parish, as being included in the above mentioned modus.
The glebe land consists of the scite of the vicarage, the garden, and about three quarters of an acre of meadow. There are some old houses belonging to the vicarage, which, when the taxes and repairs are deducted, produce very little clear income.
Anno 1314, a commission was issued for settling a dispute between the rectors of Biddenden and Cranbrooke, concerning the bounds of their respective parishes.
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Chella (anticamente Sala Colonia in latino, oggi in arabo شالة) è un sito archeologico a nord di Rabat, in Marocco. Il sito è la prova della più antica presenza umana nel delta del fiume Bou Regreg, lungo le cui rive Fenici e Cartaginesi stanziarono diverse basi. A circa 3 km dal centro, il complesso si trova al di fuori delle mura della città e occupa il sito della romana Sala, su una bassa collina coperta di vegetazione, rifugio delle cicogne nella stagione riproduttiva. Gli scavi hanno rivelato la presenza di un importante agglomerato e infatti Chella conserva le vestigia di una città romana, con i resti del Decumano Massimo, di un foro presso il quale si riconoscono le tracce della Curia, di una fontana monumentale e di un arco di trionfo. Il sito rimase poi in stato di abbandono per diversi secoli, fino a che i Merinidi lo scelsero per edificarvi la loro necropoli. Circondata da una cinta di mura fortificate, ad essa si accede attraverso una porta monumentale, riccamente decorata e aperta ad arco acuto, ai cui lati sono poste due massicce torri merlate semi-ottagonali. Nella parte superiore del portale è presente un’iscrizione in caratteri cufici, dalla quale si apprende che la costruzione dello stesso fu intrapresa dal sultano Abu Said (1310-31) e terminata nel 1339 sotto il regno di Abu el-Hassan, il più grande sultano della sua dinastia. All’interno della necropoli si trovano alcune tombe di marabout e, presso una sorgente trasformata in fontana per abluzioni, la necropoli reale con la tomba di Abu el-Hassan, la cui stele, finemente decorata, è sovrastata da una tettoia a muqarnas. Nelle vicinanze sono presenti la moschea di Abu Yussef Yacub con un minareto decorato con maioliche policrome ora in rovina e una zaouia con un oratorio. Nella terrazza ai piedi del complesso si estende un incantevole giardino alimentato dalle acque della vicina sorgente Ayn Mdafa, che serpeggia nell’incavo della valletta.
Le Chellah, ou Chella (en arabe : شالة), est le site d'une nécropole mérinide située sur l'emplacement d'une cité romaine, à Rabat, au Maroc. Depuis 2005, ce site accueille chaque année le festival Jazz au Chellah. Le site du Chellah fut sans doute la plus ancienne agglomération humaine à l'embouchure du Bou Regreg. Les Phéniciens et les Carthaginois, qui ont fondé plusieurs comptoirs au Maroc, ont probablement habité les bords du Bouregreg. Le Chellah conserve, en revanche, les vestiges d'une ville romaine. Les fouilles ont révélé la présence d'une agglomération d'une certaine importance ; celle de la ville citée sous les noms de Sala, par Ptolémée, et de Sala Colonia, dans l'itinéraire d'Antonin. Les restes du Decumanus Maximus, ou voie principale, ont été dégagés ainsi que ceux d'un forum, d'une fontaine monumentale, d'un arc de triomphe, d'une basilique chrétienne, etc. La voie principale de Sala a été suivie par des sondages exécutés en direction du port antique sur le Bouregreg, port aujourd'hui ensablé. Ainsi, la ville romaine dépassait l'enceinte mérinide en direction du fleuve. Les Banou Ifren s'emparèrent de la ville2 au XIe siècle, et elle fut une de leurs métropoles jusqu'à ce que qu'elle passe sous le pouvoir des Almoravides. Le Chellah était abandonné depuis plusieurs siècles quand les Mérinides choisirent son site pour y édifier leur nécropole. Comme l'indique l'inscription en écriture coufique, qui surmonte la porte d'entrée, les travaux ont été achevés en 1339, sous le règne d'Abû al-Hasan `Alî. L'occupation du site a été progressive, et les aménagements successifs ont abouti à la réalisation d'une somptueuse nécropole. Protégée par une enceinte importante à laquelle on accède par une porte monumentale, la nécropole mérinide contient notamment une salle d'ablutions, une zaouïa avec un oratoire, un minaret paré de zellige et plusieurs salles funéraires, telle celle d'Aboul Hassan dont la stèle, finement décorée, repose sous un auvent à mouqanas. Plus tard, Abû `Inân Fâris, son fils, affecta, pour l'entretenir, les revenus d'un bain mérinide de Rabat, le hammâm Ej-Jdîd. La porte de la nécropole est une porte majestueuse et guerrière. Puissante, elle est flanquée de deux bastions semi-octogonaux avec des encorbellements surmontés de merlons pointus. Cette porte de forteresse ouvre sur une petite oasis, un havre de paix d'une dizaine d'hectares où la tranquillité des lieux est interrompue de temps à autre par le claquement de bec des cigognes. Paysage clos et enchanteur, jardin à l'atmosphère magique où le sanctuaire du fondateur est au creux d'un vallon dans lequel serpente la source d'Aïn Mdafa.
Chellah, (Arabic: شالة) or Sala Colonia is a necropolis and complex of ancient Roman Mauretania Tingitana and medieval ruins at the outskirts of Rabat, Morocco. First spot of Salé, this latter was completed towards the north of the river. It is the most ancient human settlement on the mouth of the Bou Regreg River. The Phoenicians and the Carthaginians, who founded several colonies in Morocco, probably inhabited the banks of the Bou Regreg. Chellah is the site of the ruins of the Roman town known as Sala Colonia, referred to as Sala by Ptolemy. Excavations show an important port city with ruined Roman architectural elements including a decumanus maximus or principal Roman way, a forum and a triumphal arch. One of the two main Roman roads in Morocco reached the Atlantic through Iulia Constantia Zilil (Asilah), Lixus (Larache) and Sala Colonia. Another may have been built toward south, from Sala Colonia to modern Casablanca, then called Anfa. The Romans had two main naval ouposts on the Atlantic: Sala near modern Rabat and Mogador in north of Agadir. Roman expeditions sailed from there to find the Canary islands. The site was abandoned in 1154 in favour of nearby Salé. The Almohad dynasty used the ghost town as a necropolis. In the mid-14th century, a Merinid sultan, Abu l-Hasan, built monuments and the main gate, dated to 1339. These later Merinid additions included a mosque, a zawiya, and royal tombs, including that of Abu l-Hasan. Many structures in Chellah/Sala Colonia were damaged by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. The site has been converted to a garden and tourist venue.
A stele (/ˈstiːli/ STEE-lee) is a stone or wooden slab, generally taller than it is wide, erected in the ancient world as a monument. Grave steles were often used for funerary or commemorative purposes. Stelae as slabs of stone would also be used as ancient Greek and Roman government notices or as boundary markers to mark borders or property lines.
The surface of the stele usually has text, ornamentation, or both. The ornamentation may be inscribed, carved in relief, or painted.
Traditional Western gravestones may technically be considered the modern equivalent of ancient stelae, though the term is very rarely applied in this way. Equally, stelae-like forms in non-Western cultures may be called by other terms, and the words "stele" and "stelae" are most consistently applied in archaeological contexts to objects from Europe, the ancient Near East and Egypt, China, and sometimes Pre-Columbian America.
HISTORY
Steles have also been used to publish laws and decrees, to record a ruler's exploits and honors, to mark sacred territories or mortgaged properties, as territorial markers, as the boundary steles of Akhenaton at Amarna, or to commemorate military victories. They were widely used in the Ancient Near East, Mesopotamia, Greece, Egypt, Somalia, Eritrea, Ethiopia, and, most likely independently, in China and elsewhere in the Far East, and, independently, by Mesoamerican civilisations, notably the Olmec and Maya.
The large number of steles, including inscriptions, surviving from ancient Egypt and in Central America constitute one of the largest and most significant sources of information on those civilisations, in particular Maya stelae. The most famous example of an inscribed stela leading to increased understanding is the Rosetta Stone, which led to the breakthrough allowing Egyptian hieroglyphs to be read. An informative stele of Tiglath-Pileser III is preserved in the British Museum. Two steles built into the walls of a church are major documents relating to the Etruscan language.
Standing stones (menhirs), set up without inscriptions from Libya in North Africa to Scotland, were monuments of pre-literate Megalithic cultures in the Late Stone Age. The Pictish stones of Scotland, often intricately carved, date from between the 6th and 9th centuries.
An obelisk is a specialized kind of stele. The Insular high crosses of Ireland and Britain are specialized steles. Totem poles of North and South America that are made out of stone may also be considered a specialized type of stele. Gravestones, typically with inscribed name and often with inscribed epitaph, are among the most common types of stele seen in Western culture.
Most recently, in the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe in Berlin, the architect Peter Eisenman created a field of some 2,700 blank steles. The memorial is meant to be read not only as the field, but also as an erasure of data that refer to memory of the Holocaust.
EGYPT
Many steles have been used since the First Dynasty of Egypt. These vertical slabs of stone depict tombstones, religious usage, and boundaries.
URARTU
Urartian steles were freestanding stone obelisks that served a variety of purposes, sometimes they were located within temple complexes, or set within monumental rock-cut niches (such as the niche of the Rock of Van, discovered by Marr and Orbeli in 1916) or erected beside tombs. Others stood in isolated positions and, such as the Kelashin Stele, had a commemorative function or served as boundary markers. Although sometimes plain, most bore a cuneiform inscription that would detail the stele's function or the reasons for its erection. The steel from Van's "western niche" contained annals of the reign of Sarduri II, with events detailed yearly and with each year separated by the phrase "For the God Haldi I accomplished these deeds". Urartian steles are sometimes found reused as Christian Armenian gravestones or as spolia in Armenian churches - Maranci suggests this reuse was a deliberate desire to capitalize on the potency of the past. Some scholars have suggested Urartian steles may have influenced the development of the Armenian khachkar.
GREECE
Greek funerary markers, especially in Attica, had a long and evolutionary history in Athens. From public and extravagant processional funerals to different types of pottery used to store ashes after cremation, visibility has always been a large part of Ancient Greek funerary markers in Athens. Regarding stelai (Greek plural of stele), in the period of the Archaic style in Ancient Athens (600 BCE) stele often showed certain archetypes of figures, such as the male athlete. Generally their figures were singular, though there are instances of two or more figures from this time period. Moving into the 6th and 5th centuries BCE, Greek stelai declined and then rose in popularity again in Athens and evolved to show scenes with multiple figures, often of a family unit or a household scene. One such notable example is the Stele of Hegeso. Typically grave stelai are made of marble and carved in relief, and like most Ancient Greek sculpture they were vibrantly painted. For more examples of stelai, the Getty Museum's published Catalog of Greek Funerary Sculpture is a valuable resource
CHINA
Steles (Chinese: bēi 碑) have been the major medium of stone inscription in China since the Tang dynasty. Chinese steles are generally rectangular stone tablets upon which Chinese characters are carved intaglio with a funerary, commemorative, or edifying text. They can commemorate talented writers and officials, inscribe poems, portraits, or maps, and frequently contain the calligraphy of famous historical figures. In additional to their commemorative value, many Chinese steles are regarded as exemplars of traditional Chinese calligraphic scripts, especially the clerical script.
Chinese steles from before the Tang dynasty are rare: there are a handful from before the Qin dynasty, roughly a dozen from the Western Han, 160 from the Eastern Han, and several hundred from the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern, and Sui dynasties. During the Han dynasty, tomb inscriptions (墓誌, mùzhì) containing biographical information on deceased people began to be written on stone tablets rather than wooden ones.
Erecting steles at tombs or temples eventually became a widespread social and religious phenomenon. Emperors found it necessary to promulgate laws, regulating the use of funerary steles by the population. The Ming dynasty laws, instituted in the 14th century by its founder the Hongwu Emperor, listed a number of stele types available as status symbols to various ranks of the nobility and officialdom: the top noblemen and mandarins were eligible for steles installed on top of a stone tortoise and crowned with hornless dragons, while the lower-level officials had to be satisfied with steles with plain rounded tops, standing on simple rectangular pedestals.
Steles are found at nearly every significant mountain and historical site in China. The First Emperor made five tours of his domain in the 3rd century BC and had Li Si make seven stone inscriptions commemorating and praising his work, of which fragments of two survive. One of the most famous mountain steles is the 13 m high stele at Mount Tai with the personal calligraphy of Emperor Xuanzong of Tang commemorating his imperial sacrifices there in 725.
A number of such stone monuments have preserved the origin and history of China's minority religious communities. The 8th-century Christians of Xi'an left behind the Nestorian Stele, which survived adverse events of the later history by being buried underground for several centuries. Steles created by the Kaifeng Jews in 1489, 1512, and 1663, have survived the repeated flooding of the Yellow River that destroyed their synagogue several times, to tell us something about their world. China's Muslim have a number of steles of considerable antiquity as well, often containing both Chinese and Arabic text.
Thousands of steles, surplus to the original requirements, and no longer associated with the person they were erected for or to, have been assembled in Xi'an's Stele Forest Museum, which is a popular tourist attraction. Elsewhere, many unwanted steles can also be found in selected places in Beijing, such as Dong Yue Miao, the Five Pagoda Temple, and the Bell Tower, again assembled to attract tourists and also as a means of solving the problem faced by local authorities of what to do with them. The long, wordy, and detailed inscriptions on these steles are almost impossible to read for most are lightly engraved on white marble in characters only an inch or so in size, thus being difficult to see since the slabs are often 3m or more tall.
There are more than 100,000 surviving stone inscriptions in China. However, only approximately 30,000 have been transcribed or had rubbings made, and fewer than those 30,000 have been formally studied.
MAYA STELAE
Maya stelae were fashioned by the Maya civilization of ancient Mesoamerica. They consist of tall sculpted stone shafts or slabs and are often associated with low circular stones referred to as altars, although their actual function is uncertain. Many stelae were sculpted in low relief, although plain monuments are found throughout the Maya region. The sculpting of these monuments spread throughout the Maya area during the Classic Period (250–900 AD), and these pairings of sculpted stelae and circular altars are considered a hallmark of Classic Maya civilization. The earliest dated stela to have been found in situ in the Maya lowlands was recovered from the great city of Tikal in Guatemala. During the Classic Period almost every Maya kingdom in the southern lowlands raised stelae in its ceremonial centre.
Stelae became closely associated with the concept of divine kingship and declined at the same time as this institution. The production of stelae by the Maya had its origin around 400 BC and continued through to the end of the Classic Period, around 900, although some monuments were reused in the Postclassic (c. 900–1521). The major city of Calakmul in Mexico raised the greatest number of stelae known from any Maya city, at least 166, although they are very poorly preserved.
Hundreds of stelae have been recorded in the Maya region, displaying a wide stylistic variation. Many are upright slabs of limestone sculpted on one or more faces, with available surfaces sculpted with figures carved in relief and with hieroglyphic text. Stelae in a few sites display a much more three-dimensional appearance where locally available stone permits, such as at Copán and Toniná. Plain stelae do not appear to have been painted nor overlaid with stucco decoration, but most Maya stelae were probably brightly painted in red, yellow, black, blue and other colours.
IELAND
Ogham stones are vertical grave and boundary markers, erected at hundreds of sites in Ireland throughout the first millennium AD, bearing inscriptions in the Primitive Irish language. They have been occasionally been described as "steles.
HORN OF AFRICA
The Horn of Africa contains many stelae. In the highlands of Ethiopia and Eritrea, the Axumites erected a number of large stelae, which served a religious purpose in pre-Christian times. One of these granite columns is the largest such structure in the world, standing at 90 feet.
Additionally, Tiya is one of nine megalithic pillar sites in the central Gurage Zone of Ethiopia. As of 1997, 118 stele were reported in the area. Along with the stelae in the Hadiya Zone, the structures are identified by local residents as Yegragn Dingay or "Gran's stone", in reference to Imam Ahmad ibn Ibrahim al-Ghazi (Ahmad "Gurey" or "Gran"), ruler of the Adal Sultanate.
The stelae at Tiya and other areas in central Ethiopia are similar to those on the route between Djibouti City and Loyada in Djibouti. In the latter area, there are a number of anthropomorphic and phallic stelae, which are associated with graves of rectangular shape flanked by vertical slabs. The Djibouti-Loyada stelae are of uncertain age, and some of them are adorned with a T-shaped symbol.
Near the ancient northwestern town of Amud in Somalia, whenever an old site had the prefix Aw in its name (such as the ruins of Aw Bare and Aw Bube), it denoted the final resting place of a local saint. Surveys by A.T. Curle in 1934 on several of these important ruined cities recovered various artefacts, such as pottery and coins, which point to a medieval period of activity at the tail end of the Adal Sultanate's reign. Among these settlements, Aw Barkhadle is surrounded by a number of ancient stelae. Burial sites near Burao likewise feature old stelae
WIKIPEDIA
I was in the area, checking up on the Heath Spotted Orchids, and the church was a five minute drive away, in the grounds of a former country house.
I park at the church and find it locked, as expected, but there were directions to a keyholder nearby, walking into the cobbled squares and converted estate buildings now executive housing.
I ring the bell: nothing
I ring again: nothing
I use the knocker: dog barks. Dog attacks the door.
There is angry voices. Or voice. There was the sound of the dog being put into a side room, and the struggle to close the door.
The front door opened: yes?
Can I have the church key, please?
Not sure if I still have it.
Why'd you want it?
To photograph the interior.
Who're with?
I'm with no one, I am photographing all parish churches in the county, and would like to do this one. I showed him my driving licence which should say under job title: obsessive and church crawler.
He seemed satisfied, and let me have the key.
Phew.
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Substantially rebuilt after a fire of 1598. The welcoming interior displays no chancel arch, although the doorways in the arcade show where the medieval rood screen ran the width of the church. The striking east window was designed by Wallace Wood in 1954. There is a good aumbry and piscina nearby. To the north of the chancel stands the excellent tomb chest of Sir John Tufton (d. 1624). The arcade into which it is built was lowered to allow a semi-circular alabaster ceiling to be inserted to set the composition off. Because it is completely free-standing it is one of the easiest tomb chests in Kent to study, with five sons kneeling on the south side and four daughters on the north . In addition there are complicated coats of arms and an inscription which records the rebuilding of the church by Tufton after the fire. On top of the chest lie Sir John and his wife, with their son Nicholas kneeling between their heads. Much of the monument is still covered with its original paint. The organ, which stands in the south aisle, may be the instrument on which Sir Arthur Sullivan composed 'The Lost Chord'. It originally stood in Hothfield Place where Sullivan was a frequent guest.
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Hothfield
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HOTHFIELD
IS the next parish northward from Great Chart, and is so called from the bothe, or heath within it. The greatest part of this parish lies within the hundred of Chart and Longbridge, and the remainder in that of Calehill. It is in the division of East Kent.
THE PARISH of Hothfield lies a little more than two miles from Ashford north-westward, the high road from which towards Lenham and Maidstone goes through it over Hothfield heath. It contains about 1250 acres, and fifty houses, the rents of it are about 1300l. per annum. It is not a pleasant, nor is it accounted a healthy situation, owing probably to the many low and watry lands in and about it. The river Stour, which rises at Lenham, runs along the southern side of the parish, which is watered likewise by several small streams, which rise about Charing and Westwell, from under the chalk hills, and join the Stour here. The heath, which contains near one half of the parish, consists mostly of a deep sand, and has much peat on it, which is continually dug by the poor for firing. On the east and west sides of the heath, the latter being called West-street, are two hamlets of houses, which form the scattered village of Hothfield. The Place-house stands on a hill, at a small distance from the corner of the heath southward, with some small plantations of trees about it, forming a principal object to the country round it. It is a square mansion, built of Portland stone, by the late earl of Thanet, on the scite of the antient mansion, close to the church; it has a good prospect round it. The adjoining grass grounds are extensive, and well laid out for the view over them; the water, which rises at no great distance from the house, becomes very soon a tolerable sized stream, and running on in sight of it, joins the Stour a little above Worting mill; these grass lands are fertile and good fatting land, like those mentioned before, near Godington, in Great Chart. The parsonage house, which is a neat dwelling of white stucco, stands at the southern corner of the heath, at the foot of the hill, adjoining the Place grounds, near West-street. Between the heath and Potter's corner, towards Ashford, the soil begins to approach much of the quarry stone.
Though the land in the parish is naturally poor, it is rendered productive by the chalk and lime procured from the down hills. The inhabitants have an unlimited right of commoning with those of the adjoining parish of Westwell, to upwards of five hundred acres of common, which affords them the means of keeping a cow and their poultry, which, with the liberty of digging peat, draws a number of certificated poor to reside here. There is not one dissenter in the parish.
Jack Cade, the noted rebel, in Henry the VI.th's reign, though generally supposed to be taken by Alexander Iden, esq. the sheriff, in a field belonging to Ripple manor, in the adjoining parish of Westwell, was discovered, as some say, in a field in this parish, still named from him, Jack Cade's field, now laid open with the rest of the grounds adjoining to Hothfieldplace.
The plant caryophyllata montena, or water avens, which is a very uncommon one, grows in a wood near Barber's hill, in this parish.
THE MANOR OF HOTHFIELD seems, in very early times, to have had the same owners as the barony of Chilham, and to have continued so, for a considerable length of time after the descendants of Fulbert de Dover were become extinct here. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, who in the 5th year of king Edward II. had a grant of this manor as well as of Chilham in see, appears to have held this manor of Hothfield by grand sergeantry of the archbishop, and accordingly, in the 8th year of it, at the enthroning of archbishop Walter Reynolds, he made his claim, and was allowed to perform the office of chamberlain for that day, and to serve up the water, for the archbishop to wash his hands; for which his fees were, the furniture of his bedchamber, and the bason and towel made use of for that purpose; (fn. 1) and in the next year he obtained of the king, a charter of free-warren for his demesne lands within this manor among others. After this the manor of Hothfield continued to be held by the like service, and continued in the same owners as that of Chilham, (fn. 2) down to Thomas lord Roos, who became entitled to the see of it, who for his attachment to the house of Lancaster, was, with others, attainted, in the 1st year of king Edward IV.'s reign, and his lands confiscated to the crown. But Margaret his mother, being possessed of it for her life, afterwards married Roger Wentworth, esq. whom she survived, and died possessed of it in the 18th year of that reign; upon which, by reason of the above attaint, the crown became entitled to it, the inquisition for which was found in the 4th year of that reign; immediately after which, the king granted it to Sir John Fogge, of Repton, who was comptroller of his household and one of his privy council, for his life. On king Richard III.'s accession to the crown, he took shelter in the abbey of Westminster, from whence he was invited by the king, who in the presence of a numerous assembly gave him his hand, and bid him be confident that from thenceforward he was sure to him in affection. This is rather mentioned, as divers chronicles have erroneously mentioned that he was an attorney, whom this prince had pardoned for forgery. He died possessed of it in the 17th year of Henry VII. where it remained till Henry VIII. granted it, at the very latter end of his reign, to John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, in Sussex, whose lands were disgavelled by the acts of 2 and 3 Edward VI. who afterwards resided at Hothfield, where he kept his shrievalty in the 3d year of queen Elizabeth. He was descended from ancestors who were originally written Toketon, and held lands in Rainham, in this county, as early as king John's reign; (fn. 3) one of whom was seated at Northiam, in Sussex, in king Richard the IId.'s reign, at which time they were written as at present, Tufton, and they continued there till John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, before-mentioned, removed hither. He died in 1567, and was buried in this church, leaving one son John Tufton, who resided at Hothfield-place, and in July, in the 16th year of queen Elizabeth, anno 1573, entertained the queen here, in her progress through this county. In the 17th year of that reign he was sheriff, and being a person of eminent repure and abilities, he was knighted by king James, in his 1st year, and created a baronet at the first institution of that order, on June 19, 1611. He married Olimpia, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. of Sileham, in Rainham, by whom he had three daughters; and secondly Christian, daughter and coheir of Sir Humphry Brown, a justice of the common pleas. He died in 1624, and was buried in this church, having had by her several sons and daughters. Of the former, Nicholas the eldest, succeeded him in title and estates. Sir Humphry was of Bobbing and the Mote, in Maidstone, and Sir William was of Vinters, in Boxley, both baronets, of whom further mention has already been made in the former parts of this history.
Sir Nicholas Tufton, the eldest son, was by letters patent, dated Nov. 1, anno 2 Charles I. created lord Tufton, baron of Tufton, in Sussex; and on August 5, in the 4th year of that reign, earl of the Isle of Thanet, in this county. He had four sons and nine daughters; of the former, John succeeded him in honors, and Cecil, was father of Sir Charles Tufton, of Twickenham, in Middlesex. John, the eldest son, second earl of Thanet, married in 1629 Margaret, eldest daughter and coheir of Richard, earl of Dorset, by his wife the lady Anne Clifford, sole daughter and heir of George, earl of Cumberland, and baroness of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy, by which marriage these tithes descended afterwards to their issue. In the time of the commonwealth, after king Charles the 1st.'s death, he was, in 1654, appointed sheriff, and however inconsistent it might be to his rank, yet he served the office. He left six sons and six daughters, and was succeeded by Nicholas his eldest son, third earl of Thanet, who by the deaths of his mother in 1676, and of his cousin-german Alethea, then wife of Edward Hungerford, esq. who died s. p. in 1678, he became heir to her, and sole heir to his grandmother Anne, lady Clifford, and consequently to the baronies of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy; dying s. p. he was succeeded as earl of Thanet and lord Clifford, &c. by his next brother John, who, on his mother's death, succeeded likewise by her will to her large estates in Yorkshire and Westmoreland, and to the hereditary in sheriffdoms of the latter and of Cumberland likewise, for it frequently happened in these hereditary sheriffdoms that female heirs became possessed of them, and consequently were sheriffs of those districts; but this was not at all an unusual thing, there being many frequent instances of women bearing that office, as may be seen in most of the books in which any mention is made of it, some instances of which the reader may see in the differtation on the office of sheriff, in vol. i. of this history. That part of their office which was incompatible for a woman to exercise, was always executed by a deputy, or shyre-clerk, in their name. But among the Harleian MSS. is a very remarkable note taken from Mr. Attorney-general Noys reading in Lincoln's inn, in 1632, in which, upon a point, whether the office of a justice of a forest might be executed by a woman; it was said, that Margaret, countess of Richmond, mother to king Henry VII. was a justice of peace; that the lady Bartlet, perhaps meant for Berkley, was also made a justice of the peace by queen Mary, in Gloucestershire; and that in Suffolk one ..... Rowse, a woman, did usually fit upon the bench at assizes and sessions among other justices, gladio cincta. John, earl of Thanet, died unmarried, as did his next brother earl Richard, so that the titles devolved to Thomas Tufton, who became the sixth earl of Thanet, and lord Clifford, which latter title was decreed to him by the house of peers in 1691. He left surviving issue five daughters and coheirs, the eldest of whom, Catherine, married Ed. Watson, viscount Sondes, son and heir of Lewis, earl of Rockingham; and the four others married likewise into noble families. He died at Hothfield in 1729, having by his will bequeathed several legacies to charitable purposes, especially towards the augmentation of small vicarages and curacies. He died without male issue, so that the titles of earl of Thanet and baron Tufton, and of baronet, descended to his nephew Sackville Tufton, eldest surviving son of his brother Sackville Tufton, fifth son of John, second earl of Thanet. But the title of baroness Clifford, which included those of Westmoreland and Vescy, upon the death of Thomas, earl of Thanet, without male issue, became in abeyance between his daughters and coheirs above-mentioned, and in 1734, king George II. confirmed that barony to Margaret, his third surviving daughter and coheir, married to Thomas Coke, lord Lovel, afterwards created earl of Leicester, which title is now again in abeyance by his death s. p. Which Sackville Tufton died in 1721, leaving Sackville the seventh earl of Thanet, whose eldest son of the same name succeeded him as eighth earl of Thanet, and rebuilt the present mansion of Hothfield-place, in which he afterwards resided, but being obliged to travel to Italy for his health, he died there at Nice in 1786, and was brought to England, and buried in the family vault at Rainham, in this county, where his several ancestors, earls of Thanet, with their countesses, and other branches of the family, lie deposited, from the time of their first accession to that title. He married Mary, daughter of lord John Philip Sackville, sister of the present duke of Dorset, by whom he had five sons and two daughters, Elizabeth; and Caroline married to Joseph Foster Barham, esq. Of the former, Sackville, born in 1769, succeeded him in honors; Charles died unmarried; John is M. P. for Appleby; Henry is M. P. for Rochester, and William. He was succeeded by his eldest son, the present right hon. Sackville Tufton, earl of Thanet, baron Tufton, lord of the honor of Skipton, in Craven, and baronet, and hereditary sheriff of the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, who is the present possessor of this manor and seat, and resides here, and is at present unmarried. (fn. 4)
The antient arms of Tufton were, Argent, on a pale, sable, an eagle displayed of the field; which coat they continued to bear till Nicholas Tufton, the first earl of Thanet, on his obtaining that earldom, altered it to that of Sable, an eagle displayed, ermine, within a bordure, argent; which coat was confirmed by Sir William Segar, garter, in 1628, and has been borne by his descendants to the present time. The present earl of Thanet bears for his coat of arms that last-mentioned; for his crest, On a wreath, a sea lion, seiant, proper; and for his supporters, Two eagles, their wings expanded, ermine.
SWINFORT, or Swinford, which is its more proper name, is a manor in this parish, lying in the southern part of it, near the river Stour, and probably took its name from some ford in former times over it here. However that be, it had formerly proprietors, who took their name from it; but they were never of any eminence, nor can I discover when they became extinct here; only that in king Henry V.'s reign it was in the possession of Bridges, descended from John atte Bregg, one of those eminent persons, whose effigies, kneeling and habited in armour, was painted in the window often mentioned before, in Great Chart church; and in this family the manor of Swinford continued till the latter end of king James I.'s reign, when it passed by sale from one of them to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, whose son John, earl of Thanet, before the 20th year of that reign, exchanged it for other lands, which lay more convenient to him, with his near neighbour Nicholas Toke, esq. of Godinton, in which family and name it has continued down, in like manner as that feat, to Nicholas Roundell Toke, esq. now of Godinton, the present possessor of it. A court baron is held for this manor.
FAUSLEY, or FOUSLEY, as it is now usually called, is the last manor to be described in this parish; its more antient name was Foughleslee, or, as it was usually pronounced, Faulesley; which name it gave to owners who in early times possessed and resided at it. John de Foughleslee, of Hothfield, was owner of it in the second year of king Richard II. and in his descendants this manor seems to have continued till about the beginning of queen Elizabeth's reign, when it passed by sale to Drury; from which name, at the latter end of it, this manor was conveyed to Paris, who immediately afterwards alienated it to Bull, who soon afterwards reconveyed it back again to the same family, whence, in the next reign of king James I. it was sold to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, in whose successors, earls of Thanet, it has continued down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, the present owner of it.
Charities.
RICHARD PARIS, by deed in 1577, gave for the use of the poor, a rent charge of 16s. per annum, out of land called Hanvilles, in this parish; the trustees of which have been long ago deceased, and no new ones appointed since.
THOMAS KIPPS, gent. of Canterbury, by will in 1680, gave for the use of the same, an annual rent charge of 1l. out of lards in Great Chart.
RICHARD MADOCKE, clothier, of this parish, by will in 1596, ordered that the 11l. which he had lent to the parishioners of Hothfield, towards the rebuilding of their church, should, when repaid, be as a stock to the poor of this parish for ever.
SIR JOHN TUFTON, knight and baronet, and Nicholas his son, first earl of Thanet, by their wills in 1620 and in 1630, gave certain sums of money, with which were purchased eight acres of land in the parish of Kingsnoth, of the annual produce of 10l.
DR. JOHN GRANDORGE, by deed in 1713, gave a house and land in Newington, near Hythe, of the annual produce of 7l. which premises are vested in the earl of Thanet.
THOMAS, EARL OF THANET, and SACKVILLE TUFTON. Esq. grandfather of the present earl, by their deeds in 1720 and 1726, gave for a school mistress to teach 24 poor children, a rent charge and a house and two gardens, in Hothfield, the produce in money 20l. The premises were vested in Sir Penyston Lambe and Dr. John Grandorge, long since deceased; since which the trust has not been renewed; and the original writings are in the earl of Thanet's possession.
Such of the above benefactions as have been contributed by the Tufton family, have been ordered by their descendants to be distributed annually by the steward of Hothfield-place for the time being, without the interference of the parish officers, to such as received no relief from this parish; the family looking upon these rather as a private munisicence intended to continue under their direction.
The poor annually relieved are about twenty-five, casually as many.
HOTHFIELD is situated within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.
¶The church, which is small, is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of three isles and a chancel, having a low spire steeple, covered with shingles at the west end, in which are five bells, and though it stands on a hill, is yet very damp. There is not any painted glass in the windows of it. On the north side in it, is a monument of curious workmanship, having the figures of a man and woman, in full proportion, lying at length on it; at three corners of it are those of two sons and one daughter, kneeling, weeping, all in white marble; round the edges is an inscription, for Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, and Olympia his wife, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. On the monument are the arms of Tufton, with quarterings and impalements; on the sides are two inscriptions, one, that he re-edified this church after it was burnt, at his own charge, and under it made a vault for himself and his posterity, and after that he had lived eighty years, departed this life; the other enumerating his good qualities, and saying that by his will he gave perpetual legacies to this parish and that of Rainham. This monument is parted off from the north isle by a strong partition of wooden balustrades, seven feet high. The vault underneath is at most times several feet deep with water, and the few coffins which were remaining in it were some years since removed to the vaults at Rainham, where this family have been deposited ever since. On the north side of the chancel is a smaller one, formerly called St. Margaret's chapel, now shut up, and made no use of. In the south isle is a memorial for Rebecca, wife of William Henman, esq. obt. 1739, and Anna-Rebecca, their daughter, obt. 1752; arms, A lion, between three mascles, impaling a bend, cotized, engrailed. This church, which is a rectory, was always esteemed an appendage to the manor, and has passed accordingly, in like manner with it, down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, lord of the manor of Hothfield, the present patron of it.
This rectory is valued in the king's books at 17l. 5s. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 14s. 6d.
There was a pension of ten shillings paid from it to the college of Wye. In 1588 here were communicants one hundred and ninety-three, and it was valued at eighty pounds. In 1640, communicants one hundred and ninety, and valued at only sixty pounds per annum. There is a modus of two pence an acre of the pasture lands in the parish. There are twelve acres of glebe. It is now worth about one hundred and twenty pounds per annum.
Richard Hall, of this parish, by will in 1524, ordered that his feoffees should enfeoffe certain honest persons in his house and garden here, set beside the pelery, to the intent that the yearly serme of them should go to the maintenance of the rode-light within the church.
This church was burnt down in the reign of king James I. and was rebuilt at the sole expence of Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, who died in 1624. His descendant Thomas, earl of Thanet, who died in 1729, gave the present altar-piece, some of the pewing, and the pulpit.
THE CHARTER, GRANTED BY KING CHARLES II., July 8, 1663:
[Of the names listed, Joseph Clarke and William Dyre are my ancestors, John Clarke an uncle (multi-great-) and John Roome a step-relative.]
The Charter Granted by His Majesty King Charles the Second, to the Colony of Rhode-Island and Providence Plantations in America.
Boston, in New-England [Massachusetts], printed by John Allen, for Nicholas Boone, at the sign of the Bible in Carnhill, 1719.
CHARLES THE SECOND, by the Grace of God, King of England, Scotland, France and Ireland, Defender of the Faith etc. To All to whom these presents shall come, greeting. Whereas, we have been informed, by the humble petition of our trusty and well-beloved subject, John Clarke, on the behalf of Benjamin Arnold, William Brenton, William Codington, Nicholas Easton, William Boulston, John Porter, John Smith, Samuel Gorton, John Weekes, Roger Williams, Thomas Olney, Gregory Dexter, John Cogeshall, Joseph Clarke, Randall Holden, John Greene, John Roome, Samuel Wildbore, William Field, James Barker, Richard Tew, Thomas Harris, and William Dyre, and the rest of the purchasers and free inhabitants of our island, called Rhode Island, and the rest of the colony of Providence Plantations, in the Narragansett Bay, in New England, in America, that they, pursuing, with peaceable and loyal minds, their sober, serious, and religious intentions, of godly edifying themselves, and one another, in the holy Christian faith and worship, as they were persuaded; together with the gaining over and conversion of the poor ignorant Indian natives, in those parts of America, to the sincere profession and obedience of the same faith and worship, did, not only by the consent and good encouragement of our royal progenitors, transport themselves out of this kingdom of England into America, but also, since their arrival there, after their first settlement amongst other our subjects in those parts, for the avoiding of discord, and those many evils which were likely to ensue upon some of those our subjects not being able to bear, in these remote parts, their different apprehensions in religious concernments, and in pursuance of the aforesaid ends, did once again leave their desirable stations and habitations, and with excessive labor and travel, hazard and charge did transplant themselves into the midst of the Indian natives, who as we are informed, are the most potent princes and people of all that country where; by the good Providence of God, from whom the Plantations have taken their name, upon their labor and industry, they have not only been preserved to admiration, but have increased and prospered, and are seized and possessed, by purchase and consent of the said natives, to their full content, of such lands, islands, rivers, harbors and roads, as are very convenient, both for plantations, and also for building of ships, supply of pipe-staves, and other merchandize and which lies very commodious, in many respects, for commerce, and to accommodate our southern plantations, and may much advance the trade of this our realm, and greatly enlarge the territories thereof they having by near neighborhood to and friendly society with the great body of the Narragansett Indians, given them encouragement of their own accord, to subject themselves, their people and lands, unto us whereby, as is hoped, there may, in time, by the blessing of God upon their endeavors be laid a sure foundation of happiness to all America.
And whereas, in their humble address, they have freely declared, that it is much on their hearts (if they may be permitted) to hold forth a lively experiment, that a most flourishing civil state may stand and best be maintained, and that among our English subjects, with a full liberty in religious concernments and that true piety rightly grounded upon gospel principles, will give the best and greatest security to sovereignty, and will lay in the hearts of men the strongest obligations to true loyalty. Now, know ye, that we, being willing to encourage the hopeful undertaking of our said loyal and loving subjects, and to secure them in the free exercise and enjoyment of all their civil and religious rights, appertaining to them, as our loving subjects and to preserve unto them that liberty, in the true Christian faith and worship of God, which they have sought with so much travail, and with peaceable minds, and loyal subjection to our royal progenitors and ourselves, to enjoy; and because some of the people and inhabitants of the same colony cannot, in their private opinions, conform to the public exercise of religion, according to the liturgy, forms and ceremonies of the Church of England, or take or subscribe the oaths and articles made and established in that behalf; and for that the same, by reason of the remote distances of those places, will (as we hope) be no breach of the unity and uniformity established in this nation: Have therefore thought fit, and do hereby publish, grant, ordain and declare, that our royal will and pleasure is, that no person within the said colony, at any time hereafter shall be any wise molested, punished, disquieted, or called in question, for any differences in opinion in matters of religion, and do not actually disturb the civil peace of our said colony; but that all and every person and persons may, from time to time, and at all times hereafter, freely and fully have and enjoy his and their own judgments and consciences, in matters of religious concernments, throughout the tract of land hereafter mentioned, they behaving themselves peaceably and quietly, and not using this liberty to licentiousness and profaneness, nor to the civil injury or outward disturbance of others, any law, statute, or clause therein contained, or to be contained, usage or custom of this realm, to the contrary hereof, in any wise notwithstanding. And that they may be in the better capacity to defend themselves, in their just rights and liberties, against all the enemies of the Christian faith, and others, in all respects, we have further thought fit, and at the humble petition of the persons aforesaid are graciously pleased to declare, That they shall have and enjoy the benefit of our late act of indemnity and free pardon, as the rest of our subjects in other our dominions and territories have; and to create and make them a body politic or corporate, with the powers and privileges hereinafter mentioned.
And accordingly our will and pleasure is, and of our especial grace, certain knowledge, and mere motion, we have ordained, constituted and declared, and by these presents, for us, our heirs and successors, do ordain, constitute and declare: That they the said William Brenton, William Codington, Nicholas Easton, Benedict Arnold, William Boulston, John Porter, Samuel Gorton, John Smith, John Weekes, Roger Williams, Thomas Olney, Gregory Dexter, John Cogeshall, Joseph Clarke, Randall Holden, John Greene, John Roome, William Dyre, Samuel Wildbore, Richard Tew, William Field, Thomas Harris, James Barker, (missing) Rainsborrow, (missing) Williams, and John Nickson, and all such others as now are, or hereafter shall be, admitted and made free of the company and society of our colony of Providence Plantations, in the Narragansett Bay, in New England, shall be, from time to time, and forever hereafter, a body corporate and politic, in fact and name, by the name of the Governor and Company of the English Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, in New England, in America; and that, by the same name, they and their successors shall and may have perpetual succession, and shall and may be persons able and capable, in the law, to sue and be sued, to plead and be impleaded, to answer, and be answered unto, to defend and to be defended, in all and singular suits, causes, quarrels, matters, actions and things, of what kind or nature so ever; and also to have, take, possess, acquire, and purchase lands, tenements or hereditaments, or any goods or chattels, and the same to lease, grant, demise, aliene, bargain, sell and dispose of, at their own will and pleasure, as other our liege people of this our realm of England, or any corporation or body politic, within the same, may lawfully do. And further, that they the said Governor and Company, and their successors, shall and may, forever hereafter have a common seal, to serve and use for all matters, causes, things, and affairs, whatsoever, of them, and their successors; and the same seal to alter, change, break, and make new, from time to time, at their will and pleasure, as they shall think fit.
And further, we will and ordain, and by these presents, for us, our heirs, and successors, do declare and appoint that, for the better ordering and managing of the affairs and business of the said Company, and their successors, there shall be one Governor, one Deputy-Governor and ten Assistants, to be from time to time, constituted, elected and chosen, out of the freemen of the said Company, for the time being, in such manner and form as is hereafter in these presents expressed, which said officers shall apply themselves to take care for the best disposing and ordering of the general business and affairs of and concerning the lands, and hereditaments hereinafter mentioned to be granted, and the plantation thereof, and the government of the people there. And, for the better execution of our royal pleasure herein, We do, for us, our heirs and successors, assign, name, constitute, and appoint the aforesaid Benedict Arnold to be the first and present Governor of the said Company and the said William Brenton to be the Deputy-Governor, and the said William Boulston, John Porter, Roger Williams, Thomas Olney, John Smith, John Greene, John Cogeshall, James Barker, William Field and Joseph Clarke, to be the ten present Assistants of the said Company, to continue in the said several offices, respectively, until the first Wednesday which shall be in the month of May now next coming. And further, we will, and by these presents, for us, our heirs, and successors, do ordain and grant that the Governor of the said Company, for the time being, or, in his absence, by occasion of sickness or otherwise, by his leave and permission, the Deputy-Governor, for the time being, shall and may, from time to time, upon all occasions, give order for the assembling of the said Company, and calling them together, to consult and advise of the business and affairs of the said Company.
And that forever hereafter, twice in every year, that is to say, on every first Wednesday in the month of May, and on every last Wednesday in October, or oftener, in case it shall be requisite, the Assistants and such of the freemen of the said Company, not exceeding six persons for Newport, four persons for each of the respective towns of Providence, Portsmouth and Warwick, and two persons for each other place, town or city, who shall be from time to time, thereunto elected or deputed by the major part of the freemen of the respective towns or places for which they shall be so elected or deputed, shall have a general meeting or assembly, then and there to consult, advise and determine in and about the affairs and business of the said Company and Plantations. And, further, we do, of our especial grace, certain knowledge, and mere motion, give and grant unto the said Governor and Company of the English colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, in New England, in America, and their successors that the Governor, or, in his absence, or, by his permission the Deputy-Governor of the said Company, for the time being the Assistants, and such of the freemen of the said Company as shall be so as aforesaid elected or deputed, or so many of them as shall be present at such meeting or assembly, as aforesaid, shall be called the General Assembly and that they, or the greatest part of them present, whereof the Governor or Deputy-Governor, and six of the Assistants, at least to be seven shall have, and have hereby given and granted unto them, full power and authority, from time to time, and at all times here-after, to appoint, alter and change such days, times and places of meeting and General Assembly, as they shall think fit ; and to choose, nominate and appoint, such and so many other persons as they shall think fit, and shall be willing to accept the same, to be free of the said Company and body politic, and them into the same to admit; and to elect and constitute such offices and officers, and to grant such needful commissions, as they shall think fit and requisite, for the ordering, managing, and dispatching of the affairs of the said Governor and Company, and their successors; and from time to time, to make, ordain, constitute or repeal, such laws, statutes, orders and ordinances, forms and ceremonies of government and magistracy, as to them shall seem meet, for the good and welfare of the said Company, and for the government and ordering of the lands and hereditaments, hereinafter mentioned to be granted, and of the people that do, or at any time hereafter shall, inhabit or be within the same; so as such laws, ordinances and constitutions, so made, be not contrary and repugnant unto, but as near as may be, agreeable to the laws of this our realm of England, considering the nature and constitution of the place and people there; and also to appoint, order and direct, erect and settle, such places and courts of jurisdiction, for the hearing and determining of all actions, cases, matters and things, happening within the said colony and plantation, and which shall be in dispute, and depending there, as they shall think fit; and also to distinguish and set forth the several names and titles, duties, powers and limits, of each court, office and officer, superior and inferior; and also to contrive and appoint such forms of oaths and attestations, not repugnant, but as near as may be agreeable, as aforesaid, to the laws and statutes of this our realm, as are convenient and requisite with respect to the due administration of justice, and due execution and discharge of all offices and places of trust by the persons that shall be therein concerned, and also to regulate and order the way and manner of all elections to offices and places of trust, and to prescribe, limit and distinguish the numbers and bounds of all places, towns or cities, within the limits and bounds hereinafter mentioned, and not herein particularly named, who have, or shall have, the power of electing and sending of freemen to the said General Assembly; and also to order, direct and authorize the imposing of lawful and reasonable fines, mulcts, imprisonments, and executing other punishments, pecuniary and corporal, upon offenders and delinquents, according to the course of other corporations within this our kingdom of England; and again to alter revoke, annul or pardon, under their common seal, or otherwise, such fines, mulcts, imprisonments, sentences, judgments and condemnations, as shall be thought fit; and to direct, rule, order and dispose of, all other matters and things, and particularly that which relates to the making of purchases of the native Indians, as to them shall seem meet; whereby our said people and inhabitants in the said Plantations, may be so religiously, peaceably and civilly governed, as that by their good life and orderly conversation, they may win and invite the native Indians of the country to the knowledge and obedience of the only true God and Saviour of mankind; willing, commanding and requiring and by these presents for us, our heirs and successors, ordaining and appointing, that all such laws, statutes, orders and ordinances, instructions, impositions and directions, as shall be so made by the Governor, Deputy-Governor, Assistants and freemen, or such number of them as aforesaid, and published in writing, under their common seal, shall be carefully and duly observed, kept, performed and put in execution, according to the true intent and meaning of the same.
And these our letters patent, or the duplicate or exemplification thereof, shall be to all and every such officer, superior or inferior, from time to time, for the putting of the same orders, laws, statutes, ordinances, instructions and directions in due execution, against us, our heirs and successors, a sufficient warrant and discharge. And further, our will and pleasure is, and we do hereby, for us, our heirs and successors, establish and ordain, that yearly, once in the year, forever hereafter, namely, the aforesaid Wednesday in May, and at the town of Newport, or elsewhere, if urgent occasion do require, the Governor, Deputy-Governor and Assistants of the said Company, and other officers of the said Company, or such of them as the General Assembly shall think fit, shall be, in the said General Court or Assembly to be held from that day or time, newly chosen for the year ensuing, by such greater part of the said Company, for the time being, as shall be then and there present; and if it shall happen that the present Governor, Deputy-Governor and Assistants, by these presents appointed, or any such as shall hereafter be newly chosen into their rooms, or any of them, or any other the officers of the said Company, shall die or be removed from his or their several offices or places before the said general day of election, whom we do hereby declare, for any misdemeanor or default, to be removable by the Governor, Assistants and Company, or such greater part of them, in any of the said public courts, to be assembled as aforesaid, that then, and in every such case, it shall and may be lawful to and for the said Governor, Deputy-Governor, Assistants and Company aforesaid, or such greater part of them, so to be assembled as is aforesaid, in any their assemblies, to proceed to a new election of one or more of their Company, in the room or place, rooms or places, of such officer or officers, so dying or removed, according to their discretions; and immediately upon and after such election or elections made of such Governor, Deputy-Governor, Assistant or Assistants, or any other officer of the said Company, in manner and form aforesaid, the authority, office and power, before given to the former Governor, Deputy-Governor, and other officer and officers so removed, in whose stead and place new shall be chosen, shall, as to him and them, and every of them, respectively, cease and determine.
Provided always, and our will and pleasure is, that as well such as are by these presents appointed to be the present Governor, Deputy-Governor and Assistants of the said Company, as those that shall succeed them, and all other officers to be appointed and chosen as aforesaid, shall, before the undertaking the execution of the said offices and places respectively, give their solemn engagement, by oath or otherwise, for the due and faithful performance of their duties in their several offices and places, before such person or persons as are by these presents hereafter appointed to take and receive the same, that is to say: the said Benedict Arnold, who is hereinbefore nominated and appointed the present Governor of the said Company, shall give the aforesaid engagement before William Brenton, or any two of the said Assistants of the said Company; unto whom we do by these presents give full power and authority to require and receive the same; and the said William Brenton, who is hereby before nominated and appointed the present Deputy-Governor of the said Company, shall give the aforesaid engagement before the said Benedict Arnold, or any two of the Assistants of the said Company; unto whom we do by these presents give full power and authority to require and receive the same; and the said William Boulston, John Porter, Roger Williams, Thomas Olney, John Smith, John Greene, John Cogeshall, James Barker, William Field, and Joseph Clarke, who are hereinbefore nominated and appointed the present Assistants of the said Company, shall give the said engagement to their offices and places respectively belonging before the said Benedict Arnold and William Brenton, or one of them; to whom respectively we do hereby give full power and authority to require, administer, or receive the same; and further, our will and pleasure is, that all and every other future Governor or Deputy-Governor, to be elected and chosen by virtue of these presents, shall give the said engagement before two or more of the said Assistants of the said Company for the time being; unto whom we do by these presents give full power and authority to require, administer or receive the same; and the said Assistants, and every of them, and all and every other officer or officers to be hereafter elected and chosen by virtue of these presents from time to time, shall give the like engagements, to their offices and places respectively belonging, before the Governor or Deputy-Governor, for the time being; unto which said Governor, or Deputy-Governor, we do by these presents give full power and authority to require, administer or receive the same accordingly.
And we do likewise, for us, our heirs and successors, give and grant unto the said Governor and Company, and their successors, by these presents, that for the more peaceable and orderly government of the said Plantations, it shall and may be lawful for the Governor, Deputy-Governor, Assistants and all other officers and ministers of the said Company, in the administration of justice, and exercise of government, in the said Plantations, to use, exercise, and put in execution, such methods, rules, orders and directions, not being contrary or repugnant to the laws and statutes of this our realm, as have been heretofore given, used and accustomed, in such cases respectively, to be put in practice, until at the next or some other General Assembly, special provision shall be made and ordained in the cases aforesaid. And we do further, for us, our heirs, and successors, give and grant unto the said Governor and Company, and their successors, by these presents; that it shall and may be lawful to and for the said Governor, or, in his absence, the Deputy-Governor, and major part of the said Assistants, for the time being, at any time when the said General Assembly is not sitting, to nominate, appoint and constitute, such and so many commanders, governors, and military officers, as to them shall seem requisite, for the leading, conducting and training up the inhabitants of the said Plantations in martial affairs, and for the defense and safeguard of the said Plantations; and that it shall and may be lawful to and for all and every such commander, governor, and military officer, that shall be so as aforesaid, or by the Governor, or in his absence, the Deputy-Governor, and six of the said Assistants, and major part of the freemen of the said Company present at any General Assemblies, nominated, appointed and constituted, according to the tenor of his and their respective commissions and directions to assemble, exercise in arms, martial array, and put in warlike posture, the inhabitants of the said colony, for their special defense and safety; and to lead and conduct the said inhabitants, and to encounter, expulse, expel and resist, by force of arms, as well by sea as by land, and also to kill, slay and destroy, by all fitting ways, enterprizes and means, whatsoever, all and every such person or persons as shall, at any time hereafter, attempt or enterprise the destruction, invasion, detriment or annoyance of the said inhabitants or Plantations; and to use and exercise the law martial in such cases only as occasion shall necessarily require; and to take or surprise, by all ways and means whatsoever, all and every such person and persons, with their ship or ships, armor, ammunition or other goods of such persons, as shall, in hostile manner, invade or attempt the defeating of the said Plantations, or the hurt of the said Company and inhabitants; and upon just causes, to invade and destroy the native Indians, or other enemies of the said Colony. Nevertheless, our will and pleasure is, and we do hereby declare to the rest of our Colonies in New England, that it shall not be lawful for this our said Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, in America, in New England, to invade the natives inhabiting within the bounds and limits of their said Colonies, without the knowledge and consent of the said other Colonies. And it is hereby declared, that it shall not be lawful to or for the rest of the Colonies to invade or molest the native Indians or any other inhabitants inhabiting within the bounds and limits hereafter mentioned, they having subjected themselves unto us, and being by us taken into our special protection, without the knowledge and consent of the Governor and Company of our Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations.
Also our will and pleasure is, and we do hereby declare unto all Christian Kings, Princes and States, that if any person, which shall hereafter be of the said Company or Plantations, or any other, by appointment of the said Governor and Company for the time being, shall at any time or times hereafter, rob or spoil, by sea or land, or do any hurt, or unlawful hostility to any of the subjects of us, our heirs or successors, or any of the subjects of any Prince or State, being then in league with us, our heirs or successors, upon complaint of such injury done to any such Prince or State, or their subjects, we, our heirs and successors, will make open proclamation within any parts of our realm of England, fit for that purpose, that the person or persons committing any such robbery or spoil shall, within the time limited by such proclamation, make full restitution, or satisfaction of all such injuries, done or committed, so as the said Prince, or others so complaining, may be fully satisfied, and contented; and if the said person or persons who shall commit any such robbery or spoil shall not make satisfaction, accordingly, within such time, so to be limited, that then we, our heirs and successors, will put such person or persons, out of our allegiance and protection; and that then it shall and may be lawful and free for all Princes or others to prosecute with hostility, such offenders, and every of them, their and every of their procurers, aiders, abettors, and counsellors, in that behalf: Provided also, and our express will and pleasure is, and we do, by these presents, for us, our heirs and successors, ordain and appoint that these presents, shall not, in any manner, hinder any of our loving subjects, whatsoever, from using and exercising the trade of fishing upon the coast of New England, in America; but that they, and every or any of them, shall have full and free power and liberty to continue and use the trade of fishing upon the said coast, in any of the seas thereunto adjoining, or any arms of the seas, or salt water, rivers and creeks, where they have been accustomed to fish; and to build and set upon the waste land belonging to the said Colony and Plantations, such wharves, stages and workhouses as shall be necessary for the salting, drying and keeping of their fish, to be taken or gotten upon that coast. And further, for the encouragement of the inhabitants of our said Colony of Providence Plantations to set upon the business of taking whales, it shall be lawful for them, or any of them, having struck whale, dubertus, or other great fish, it or them to pursue unto any part of that coast, and into any bay, river, cove, creek, or shore, belonging thereto, and it or them, upon the said coast, or in the said bay, river, cove, creek, or shore, belonging thereto, to kill and order for the best advantage, without molestation, they making no willful waste or spoil anything in these presents contained, or any other matter or thing, to the contrary, notwithstanding. And further also, we are graciously pleased, and do hereby declare, that if any of the inhabitants of our said Colony do set upon the planting of vineyards, the soil and climate both seeming naturally to concur to the production of wines, or be industrious in the discovery of fishing banks, in or about the said Colony, we will, from time to time, give and allow all due and fitting encouragement therein, as to others, in cases of like nature. And further, of our more ample grace, certain knowledge, and mere motion, we have given and granted, and by these presents, for us, our heirs and successors, do give and grant unto the said Governor and Company of the English Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, in the Narragansett Bay, in New England, in America, and to every inhabitant there; and to every person and persons, trading thither, and to every such person or persons as are or shall be free of the said Colony, full power and authority, from time to time, and at all times hereafter to take, ship, transport and carry away, out of any of our realms and dominions, for and towards the plantation and defense of the said Colony, such and so many of our loving subjects and strangers as shall or will willingly accompany them in and to their said Colony and Plantation; except such person or persons as are or shall be therein restrained by us, our heirs and successors or any law or statute of this realm: and also to ship and transport all and all manner of goods, chattels, merchandizes and other things whatsoever, that are or shall be useful or necessary for the said Plantations, and defense thereof, and usually transported, and not prohibited by any law or statute of this our realm; yielding and paying unto us, our heirs and successors, such the duties, customs and subsidies, as are or ought to be paid or payable for the same.
And further, our will and pleasure is, and we do, for us, our heirs and successors, ordain, declare, and grant unto the said Governor and Company, and their successors, that all and every the subjects of us, our heirs and successors, which are already planted and settled within our said Colony of Providence Plantations, or which shall hereafter go to inhabit within the said Colony, and all and every of their children, which have been born there, or which shall happen hereafter to be born there, or on the sea, going thither, or returning from thence, shall have and enjoy all liberties and immunities of free and natural subjects within any the dominions of us, our heirs and successors, to all intents, constructions and purposes, whatsoever, as if they, and every of them, were born within the realm of England. And further, know ye, that we, of our more abundant grace, certain knowledge, and mere motion, have given, granted and confirmed, and by these presents, for us, our heirs and successors, do give, grant and confirm, unto the said Governor and Company and their successors, all that part of our dominions in New England, in America, containing the Nahantick and Nanhygansett, alias Narragansett Bay, and countries and parts adjacent, bounded on the west or westerly, to the middle or channel of a river there, commonly called and known by the name of Pawcatuck, alias Pawcawtuck river; and so along the said river, as the greater or middle stream thereof reacheth or lies up into the north country, northward, unto the head thereof, and from thence, by a straight line drawn due north, until it meets with the south line of the Massachusetts Colony: and on the north, or northerly, by the aforesaid south or southerly line of the Massachusetts Colony or Plantation, and extending towards the east, or eastwardly, three English miles, to the east and northeast of the most eastern and northeastern parts of the aforesaid Narragansett Bay, as the said Bay lyeth or extendeth itself from the ocean on the south, or southwardly unto the mouth of the river which runneth towards the town of Providence, and from thence along the easterly side or bank of the said river higher called by the name of Seacunk river, up to the falls called Patuckett falls, being the most westwardly line of Plymouth Colony, and so from the said falls, in a straight line, due north until it meet with the aforesaid line of the Massachusetts Colony; and bounded on the south by the ocean; and, in particular, the lands belonging to the towns of Providence, Pawtuxet, Warwick, Misquammacot, alias Pawcatuck, and the rest upon the main land in the tract aforesaid, together with Rhode Island, Block Island, and all the rest of the islands and banks in the Narragansett Bay, and bordering upon the coast of the tract aforesaid, Fisher’s Island only excepted, together with all firm lands, soils, grounds, havens, ports, rivers, waters, fishings, mines royal, and all other mines, minerals, precious stones, quarries, woods, wood grounds, rocks, slates, and all and singular other commodities, jurisdictions, royalties, privileges, franchises, preheminances, and hereditaments, whatsoever, within the said tract, bounds, lands and islands aforesaid, or to them or any of them belonging, or in any wise appertaining; To have and to hold the same, unto the said Governor and Company, and their successors, forever, upon trust, for the use and benefit of themselves and their associates, freemen of the said Colony, their heirs and assigns, to be holden of us, our heirs and successors, as of the Manor of East Greenwich, in our county of Kent, in free and common soccage, and not in capite, nor by knight service; yielding and paying therefor, to us, our heirs and successors, only the fifth part of all the ore of gold and silver which, from time to time, and at all times hereafter, shall be there gotten, had or obtained, in lieu and satisfaction of all services, duties, fines, forfeitures, made or to be made, claims and demands whatsoever, to be to us, our heirs or successors, therefor or thereout rendered, made or paid; any grant, or clause, in a late grant, to the Governor and Company of Connecticut Colony, in America, to the contrary thereof in any wise notwithstanding; the aforesaid Pawcatuck river having been yielded, after much debate, for the fixed and certain bounds between these our said Colonies, by the Agents thereof; who have also agreed, that the said Pawcatuck river shall be also called alias Norrogansett or Narrogansett river; and, to prevent future disputes, that otherwise might arise thereby, forever hereafter shall be construed, deemed and taken to be the Narragansett river in our late grant to Connecticut Colony mentioned as the easterly bounds of that Colony. And further, our will and pleasure is, that in all matters of public controversy which may fall out between our Colony of Providence Plantations, and the rest of our Colonies in New England, it shall and may be lawful to and for the Governor and Company of the said Colony of Providence Plantations to make their appeals therein to us, our heirs and successors, for redress in such cases, within this our realm of England: and that it shall be lawful to and for the inhabitants of the said Colony of Providence Plantations, without let or molestation, to pass and repass, with freedom, into and through the rest of the English Colonies, upon their lawful and civil occasions, and to converse, and hold commerce and trade, with such of the inhabitants of our other English Colonies as shall be willing to admit them thereunto, they behaving themselves peaceably among them; any act, clause or sentence, in any of the said Colonies provided, or that shall be provided, to the contrary in any wise notwithstanding. And lastly, we do, for us, our heirs and successors, ordain and grant unto the said Governor and Company, and their successors, by these presents, that these our letters patent shall be firm, good, effectual and available in all things in the law, to all intents, constructions and purposes whatsoever, according to our true intent and meaning hereinbefore declared; and shall be construed, reputed and adjudged in all cases most favorably on the behalf, and for the best benefit and behoof, of the said Governor and Company, and their successors; although express mention of the true yearly value or certainty of the premises, or any of them, or of any other gifts or grants, by us, or by any of our progenitors or predecessors, heretofore made to the said Governor and Company of the English Colony of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations, in the Narragansett Bay, New England, in America, in these presents is not made or any statute, act, ordinance, provision, proclamation or restriction, heretofore had, made, enacted, ordained or provided, or any other matter, cause or thing whatsoever, to the contrary thereof in anywise notwithstanding. In witness whereof, we have caused these our letters to be made patent. Witness ourself at Westminster, the eighth day of July, in the fifteenth year of our reign.
By the King