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I am attempting to construct a 1950s "B" movie style miniature rocketship out of plastic soda bottles and fast food take-out cups.
Admittedly, a heapin' helpin' of optimistic imagination is required to visualize the final result at this stage.
"Stage" - get it? Like, in rocket stages?
I'm hoping the quality of the jokes are not indicative of the quality of the final product. A vain hope, no doubt.
Historically, my success rate with projects like this is low. The "rough outline" goes together pretty well, but the finishing details usually fail to bring the appearance to anything other than that of plastic bottles haphazardly glued together.
Here's a website on which to lose an hour or several: www.spaceagemuseum.com/exhibits#/the-rocket/
Makes me wish I knew how to weld and work with metal and do "real man" types of projects - like build roadside attraction rocket ships.
Everybody who remembers the TV space shows "pre-Star Trek" is either too old to care or dead now. Most of the web articles about full-size TV rockets date between 2007 and 2015, but there's some amazing stuff out there:
www.smithsonianmag.com/air-space-magazine/supermarket-spa...
I was watching some old episodes of the "American Pickers" TV series earlier. That show usually leaves me feeling sad. Sad for all the mistakes I made in life. The guy, Mike, on the show got his start restoring old bicycles and hitting up farm and auction sales for bike parts. Now he's rich from his antiques show. I used to have an antiques show on TV. Seriously - "Focus on Collectibles." It was on local cable access TV in Eugene, Oregon, back when cable access was a thing. It was fun, some friends and I did it for laughs. I think we broadcast five or six episodes. Had I been clever, or business oriented, or ambitious... oh well, water under the bridge.
What really depresses me about "American Pickers" is the places the guys visit - where old guys... it's usually guys... accumulated cool old stuff by the barn full. Back in the '50s and '60s it must have been possible to load up by the truck load for pennies. And to have barns and acreage on which to accumulate old cars and motorcycles and even airplanes... and rockets. And mechanical wind-up toys and advertising signs and neon signs and movie posters and... and now they're dead and their kids, who are old themselves, are trying to sell all the crap dad and grand-dad accumulated so they can turn the family farm over to developers who want to build condos.
My grandparents had 40 acres, with a barn that my grandpa filled up with junk - mostly old appliances and half-rotted lumber. After my grandfather passed away, my grandma held on to the property for several years, but finally had to let it go. My brother tells me the area is not even recognizable anymore - all the farms out there have been build up with houses.
Anyway, I'm glueing together soda bottles and plastic cups to try to make a rocketship. A project doomed to failure, as noted in a previous message.
22 January 2022
View Light-tentted Canon AE-1 Program (3 of 4) on Black
View Light-tentted Canon AE-1 Program (3 of 4) Map/EXIF
Canon EOS 7D + EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 64 mm - 1/160 sec at f/22, ISO 400
Manual mode @ 0 EV E.C - Pattern metering - no flash
Subject Distance: 730 mm
Choosing a big box lets you get some good angles on larger objects.
Strobist info:
2x 580EX II at 1/8th on each side of box
1x Vivitar 2800D aimed down on top of the box at full power (non manual flash)
Full instructions here.
47°34'56.23" N 122°1'49.59" W, 137 m
Kitchen Table, My Apartment
Sammamish, Washington, USA
Taken on 03.26.2011, uploaded on 03.26.2011.
©2011 Adam James Steenwyk. Please contact me at ajamess [at] gmail [dot] com if you would like to use this photo. Blog: www.f128.info
Landing Strip delayed for new project.
Progress Report: I didn't take enough photos. First 2 wks I completed deep clean of Kitchen. By moving my vacuum to a different closet with easier access, I had room to add 2 more shelves to my kitchen pantry, which then created room for small appliances that I love but don’t use everyday. This completely cleared off my countertops!!! I also discovered that my many magnetic spice containers on the side of my frig could be neatly stacked on the back/top of my stove/range with a less cluttered look.
Over the weekend: I filled my truck with donations and took out tons of recycling and trash from culled files and outboxes. I’m at a 50% stage of purging the entire household.
LANDING STRIP: Monday, I started to refinish/DIY the junk dresser for my "landing-strip"/non-existent foyer and I enlisted Matt to design and build a steel structure to support a grid for my /coat rack. I had purchased some gridwall panels on Craigslist, to create a gridwork for my coatrack/Landing Strip, but decided I needed even more structure. I’ve committed to adding an industrial architectural structure to my interior entry. I’ll take some how-to photos when we build it next weekend. This adds another week to completing my Landing Strip. At 25% now. Entry dresser will hold keys, sunglasses, small office supplies, sort mail, bottom drawers for shoes.
FRONT ROOM: Alcove project in progress: Hung large mirrors and moved low black, modern dresser from bedroom (use 3 drawers for clothing and 3 drawers for supplies. into front room alcove under the black framed mirrors. I’m adding a few touches to the mirror installation before I take a photo. Purchased smaller mirrors to hang over the installed mirror. Project is at 60%.
Big Purchase: Refurbished Flat Panel TV on Ebay and a Media Cabinet with 6 drawers, black finish, all wood, found at HomeGoods; fits perfectly between two big bookcases (Expedits purchased last year on Craigslist. I have a truck and tools and I’m not afraid to use them….) Drawers hold Office paper supplies and owner manuals. I followed Maxwell’s advice and purchased longer cable cord so that I could move the TV out of the alcove. This began the process of opening up the entire room.
Last Year’s Big Purchases: 2 Ikea Expedits on Craigslist, Red Afghan Khal Muhammadi Rug, handwoven Rug 6’ X9’ on Ebay: seller: Pakobel purchased for under 300.00 including shipping… just beautiful.
Moved office from Bedroom to Front Room. I had just begun this office move when the Cure began. Behind on editing and organizing books, files, office equipment and wires, wires, wires. Also purchased a Wireless printer and several devices for organizing/hiding wires. I’m at 55% here.
Where to place the printer?
How to place the red rug to accommodate table and chairs? May need to place rug all the way under the couch in order to leave more room for the table w chairs? Shotgun floorplan leaves few choices for rug and sofa placement….
What color shall I paint the round white table (20.00 on Craigslist) ? Red, gray, ivory?
Or should I actually work WHITE table and chairs into the room? I’m trying merge my love of a dark library room with my love of clean modern lines.
Paint blonde modern Thonet chairs (4 purchased on Craigslist for 25 ea) either grey or ivory?
Moved the mid-century steel barrister bookcases to the bedroom.
KITCHEN: finish the dropleaf on last year’s DIY kitchen table/island or dismantle add-ons and use as table/island without storage? Leave all dark walnut or paint top grey?
BEDROOM: filled the rest of the bedroom closet with shelves. Complete purge and organizing.
BATHROOM: need to complete DIY niche and deep purge of big storage, hang long ago purchased shower curtain in front of ugly glass shower stall.
My new kitchen, installed June 2013
PERMISSION TO USE: Please check the licence for this photo on Flickr. If the photo is marked with the Creative Commons licence, you are welcome to use this photo free of charge for any purpose including commercial. I am not concerned with how attribution is provided - a link to my flickr page or my name is fine. If used in a context where attribution is impractical, that's fine too. I enjoy seeing where my photos have been used so please send me links, screenshots or photos where possible. If the photo is not marked with the Creative Commons licence, only my friends and family are permitted to use it.
Electrical wiring is usually a relatively straightforward logic problem. Of course, it's a logic problem in which even a minor miscalculation can have shocking consequences. It's a good thing Janie is a "Smart Doll."
19 October - A Doll A Day 2024
There are six of these decorative items up on our carport supports. They used dollar store party trays, spray paint and glitter. I used museum putty to hold them up. Note: two days later, the museum putty is failing miserably. I’ll have to nail them up.
(18-55mm + Raynox 250 + External Flash)
Tried this technique and liking the results using water and food coloring.
Any comments and criticisms welcomed.
Practical Electrics magazine
-----
The staccatone is an electronic keyboard instrument invented in 1923 by Hugo Gernsback. It is a self-build DIY project for amateur electronics enthusiasts.
-- Grove Dictionary of Musical Instuments, 2014
"Do you see that strip of metal, there, that looks all rusty and burned and stuff? Yeah, well, it's not supposed to look all rusty and burned and stuff. That's called the 'bus,' and it's what you call 'hot,' which means it has a lot, and I mean a LOT, of electricity poised to LEAP OUT in what's called an 'arc' cause a whole lotta havoc... unless you're careful.
It's hard to be careful when the breaker box main bus is falling to pieces. This box needs to be replaced. That's a job that's probably better left to a professional. A real, electrical-specialist type professional. You know, the ones called electricians?
For now we're gonna snap in a new breaker switch -- the back of the old breaker switch looks as bad as this bus -- and hope it works for now. This circuit doesn't actually get used much, so we'll probably turn it off and hope it'll stop making that sorta sizzling sound."
My new kitchen, installed June 2013
PERMISSION TO USE: Please check the licence for this photo on Flickr. If the photo is marked with the Creative Commons licence, you are welcome to use this photo free of charge for any purpose including commercial. I am not concerned with how attribution is provided - a link to my flickr page or my name is fine. If used in a context where attribution is impractical, that's fine too. I enjoy seeing where my photos have been used so please send me links, screenshots or photos where possible. If the photo is not marked with the Creative Commons licence, only my friends and family are permitted to use it.
View Light-tentted Canon AE-1 Program (4 of 4) on Black
View Light-tentted Canon AE-1 Program (4 of 4) Map/EXIF
Canon EOS 7D + EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 60 mm - 1/160 sec at f/22, ISO 400
Manual mode @ 0 EV E.C - Pattern metering - no flash
Subject Distance: 620 mm
Reflections on glass look nice, as well.
Strobist info:
2x 580EX II at 1/8th on each side of box
1x Vivitar 2800D aimed down on top of the box at full power (non manual flash)
Full instructions here.
47°34'56.23" N 122°1'49.59" W, 137 m
Kitchen Table, My Apartment
Sammamish, Washington, USA
Taken on 03.26.2011, uploaded on 03.26.2011.
©2011 Adam James Steenwyk. Please contact me at ajamess [at] gmail [dot] com if you would like to use this photo. Blog: www.f128.info
"Could you hurry up? This thing's heavy!"
"Almost there. Can you lift it a little higher, please?"
25 October - A Doll A Day 2024
White company machine cabinet without the machine. Dates to be somewhere between the mid to late fifties to the early to mid sixties. Construction is plywood with a veneer and some sort of lacquer or shellac finish. Inside is a knee pedal that the machine can be plugged into.
Currently in progress to update and change it up a bit. Going to find wrought iron handles, or perhaps glass handles. I have scraped, soaked, and scraped some more to remove a bunch of sticky gunk from the top and inside the foldout leaf. The "stain" on the to seems to be from an old spill...nail polish remover perhaps? I will eventually mount some brackets on the inside and cut and finish a piece of wood top fit the hole where the sewing machine used to be. Then I can use the leaf if I want to use more table space as I sew.
I am debating whether I should remove all the finish, sand it down, and replace the finish, or if I should just go for sand and paint. Sir says he likes the wood coloring, and we have seen some pretty awful sewing cabinet "refinishing" work done with paint. I also don't want to lose the ruler on the inside--one if my favorite parts! But I have a lot of medium colored wooden furniture...kind of craving something different and unique!
Originally published at: www.thefreshmaterials.com/reviews/diy-fleshlight-drying-rack
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- Share — copy and redistribute this free stock photo in any medium or format for your blog or website
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My newly renovated office closet. I recently reorganized my office and turned the closet into my photography gear storage area. So far it works great, and clears up much needed floor space!
My new kitchen, installed June 2013
PERMISSION TO USE: Please check the licence for this photo on Flickr. If the photo is marked with the Creative Commons licence, you are welcome to use this photo free of charge for any purpose including commercial. I am not concerned with how attribution is provided - a link to my flickr page or my name is fine. If used in a context where attribution is impractical, that's fine too. I enjoy seeing where my photos have been used so please send me links, screenshots or photos where possible. If the photo is not marked with the Creative Commons licence, only my friends and family are permitted to use it.
White company machine cabinet without the machine. Dates to be somewhere between the mid to late fifties to the early to mid sixties. Construction is plywood with a veneer and some sort of lacquer or shellac finish. Inside is a knee pedal that the machine can be plugged into.
Currently in progress to update and change it up a bit. Going to find wrought iron handles, or perhaps glass handles. I have scraped, soaked, and scraped some more to remove a bunch of sticky gunk from the top and inside the foldout leaf. The "stain" on the to seems to be from an old spill...nail polish remover perhaps? I will eventually mount some brackets on the inside and cut and finish a piece of wood top fit the hole where the sewing machine used to be. Then I can use the leaf if I want to use more table space as I sew.
I am debating whether I should remove all the finish, sand it down, and replace the finish, or if I should just go for sand and paint. Sir says he likes the wood coloring, and we have seen some pretty awful sewing cabinet "refinishing" work done with paint. I also don't want to lose the ruler on the inside--one if my favorite parts! But I have a lot of medium colored wooden furniture...kind of craving something different and unique!
View Light Tent Lighting (1 of 2) on Black
View Light Tent Lighting (1 of 2) Map/EXIF
Canon EOS 7D + EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 24 mm - 1/160 sec at f/22, ISO 400
Manual mode @ 0 EV E.C - Pattern metering - no flash
Subject Distance: 1.54 m
The setup. Notice the Mike's box to provide some fill. I didn't yet realize I could use the bottom flap (which is under the box) to prop the BG up. Also, forgive the mess :).
Strobist info:
2x 580EX II at 1/8th on each side of box
1x Vivitar 2800D aimed down on top of the box at full power (non manual flash)
Full instructions here.
47°34'56.23" N 122°1'49.59" W, 137 m
Kitchen Table, My Apartment
Sammamish, Washington, USA
Taken on 03.26.2011, uploaded on 03.26.2011.
©2011 Adam James Steenwyk. Please contact me at ajamess [at] gmail [dot] com if you would like to use this photo. Blog: www.f128.info
White company machine cabinet without the machine. Dates to be somewhere between the mid to late fifties to the early to mid sixties. Construction is plywood with a veneer and some sort of lacquer or shellac finish. Inside is a knee pedal that the machine can be plugged into.
Currently in progress to update and change it up a bit. Going to find wrought iron handles, or perhaps glass handles. I have scraped, soaked, and scraped some more to remove a bunch of sticky gunk from the top and inside the foldout leaf. The "stain" on the to seems to be from an old spill...nail polish remover perhaps? I will eventually mount some brackets on the inside and cut and finish a piece of wood top fit the hole where the sewing machine used to be. Then I can use the leaf if I want to use more table space as I sew.
I am debating whether I should remove all the finish, sand it down, and replace the finish, or if I should just go for sand and paint. Sir says he likes the wood coloring, and we have seen some pretty awful sewing cabinet "refinishing" work done with paint. I also don't want to lose the ruler on the inside--one if my favorite parts! But I have a lot of medium colored wooden furniture...kind of craving something different and unique!
Cómo hacer platos en miniatura con arcilla polimérica? ¡Muy buenas! Con el tutorial de hoy vamos a ver lo fácil que es crear nuestros propios platos en miniatura con arcilla polimérica.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Visita mi blog www.todomini.es
Side view of the new renovations to our ol' print cart to make her ready to be more of a street gallery shop!
We're getting very excited about this!!! Finished design loaded up with our woodblock prints to debut at this coming weekend's Renegede Craft Fair in Chicago IL ~ Tugboat Printshop is booth #64, dudes!
See the old version here: www.flickr.com/photos/tugboatprintshop/sets/7215762379224...
View DIY Light Tent Build (8 of 8) on Black
View DIY Light Tent Build (8 of 8) Map/EXIF
Canon PowerShot G12 + 6.1-30.5 mm @ 6.1 mm - 1/20 sec at f/4.0, ISO 1600
Unknown mode @ 0 EV E.C - Pattern metering - no flash
Subject Distance: 710 mm
Finished product. Note a few things:
I used the inner flaps to tape the background to.
I cut off the top flap off of the front of the box, but left the bottom.
I used the left + right flaps as light flags for speedlights.
You could also use the bottom flap as a reflector holder.
Full instructions here.
47°34'56.23" N 122°1'49.59" W, 137 m
Kitchen Table, My Apartment
Sammamish, Washington, USA
Taken on 03.25.2011, uploaded on 03.26.2011.
©2011 Adam James Steenwyk. Please contact me at ajamess [at] gmail [dot] com if you would like to use this photo. Blog: www.f128.info
White company machine cabinet without the machine. Dates to be somewhere between the mid to late fifties to the early to mid sixties. Construction is plywood with a veneer and some sort of lacquer or shellac finish. Inside is a knee pedal that the machine can be plugged into.
Currently in progress to update and change it up a bit. Going to find wrought iron handles, or perhaps glass handles. I have scraped, soaked, and scraped some more to remove a bunch of sticky gunk from the top and inside the foldout leaf. The "stain" on the to seems to be from an old spill...nail polish remover perhaps? I will eventually mount some brackets on the inside and cut and finish a piece of wood top fit the hole where the sewing machine used to be. Then I can use the leaf if I want to use more table space as I sew.
I am debating whether I should remove all the finish, sand it down, and replace the finish, or if I should just go for sand and paint. Sir says he likes the wood coloring, and we have seen some pretty awful sewing cabinet "refinishing" work done with paint. I also don't want to lose the ruler on the inside--one if my favorite parts! But I have a lot of medium colored wooden furniture...kind of craving something different and unique!
I made this jewellery stand using very thick wire and then wrapped it with yarn. The tiny hangers were made from soft wire and also wrapped with yarn.
With my job being a 3D-artist/-designer and my hobby of 3D printing I thought of a nice and experimental project related to photography. I've been very interested in generative design lately and explored a hybrid modeling technique to incorporate organic, turing pattern like surfaced into industrial design models. I chose to make this organic and somewhat alien looking grip for my Yashica Electro 35CC and print it on my MSLA printer. This project was all about experimentation and learning. So I took the opportunity to also try mixing my own resin colors. That bone like one was mixed from 3 different resin colors and the black one from 2. Besides that I recently upgraded my FDM printer to a direct drive which allows me to print rubber like material. So I also made custom rubber grommets for the base plate. To finish things off I applied a few layers of clear coat to both grips for a glossy look.
Needless to say, this is one of my ever favorite Ikea fabric designs!
I love it because it is quite playful and interesting , yet in black& white, something that gives me the natural palette that I always like to have, so that I can be free to play with moods by adding pops of colour accordingly.
As it got finished when it was already dark, pictures of it will follow tomorrow.
The result really pleases me, both aesthetically and practically...so 2 x : )
Janie rewired the wall box to add switches to a "hot" circuit designed for a remote control.
20 October - A Doll A Day 2024
1. attach the wall plate with the wood spacer to the wall where the pilot holes are to ensure it is level and secured.
2. attach the belt and tie rack hardware, aligning and placing the screws to the associated pilot holes. add additional screws as necessary with the longest ones reaching the wall studs and the shorter ones to the wooden spacer and/or wall mount.
the bottom half is now complete.
begin the top shelf portion -
3. cut, prime, and paint wooden dowels with flat white spray paint
a. cut two vertical dowels from the horizontal wall plate to where the mdf top shelf will go, paint and nail in place (refer to picture).
b. use one dowel horizontally to run across the mdf shelf serving as a clearance spacer to the sliding belt rack and for added support. i drilled a pilot hole into this dowel to one of the wall studs.
c. use another dowel to be placed in front of the previous horizontal dowel for more support and to hide the screw
4. prime and use gloss white spray paint on the mdf top shelf. i used six to eight coats of paint -letting it dry an hour or more before applying the next coat. this was done in preparation of wet sanding and hand polish, creating a reflective, almost mirror-like white finish.
5. using a block of wood wrapped with 1500 grit sand paper and soap water i wet sanded the mdf top side and exposed painted sides. apply the soap and water to the top of the mdf, allowing the sandpaper to glide across the slick surface and producing a smooth surface. careful not to press down too hard or sand too much or else the paint will be stripped off.
6. apply scratch x swirl remover several times to the mdf, creating a reflective surface. i did this by hand but a buffer or polisher may be used as well.
7. apply a coat or two of car wax and buff to a shine. i used meguiar's deep crystal wax but use whatever works. the shiny appearance almost looks like it's plastic and provides a modern aesthetic.
back to the dowels-
8. use the previous dowel in 3b. to glue and attach to the bottom of the mdf shelf -noting the orientation of the pilot hole and aligning the edge of the mdf that will go against the wall to the dowel.
a. cover the mdf's polished/finished area with a rag, cloth, or other material to protect the finish while it is being clamped.
b. next, clamp it down until the wood glue dries.
c. place brad nails for added support.
d. use an appropriate sized center punch to drive the brad nails a bit under the surface so they won't interfere during mounting atop the belt and tie rack.
9. rest the finished top shelf on top of the belt and tie rack. it should be against the wall and resting on top of the wall mount plate
a. check it is level and resting on top of both the vertical and horizontal dowels.
b. set a wood screw through the horizontal dowel's pilot hole into the wall stud.
c. place the other horizontal dowel in 3c. in front of this dowel for additional support and to hide the wall screw and for more support.
10. (optional) apply caulk to fill in any cracks if needed. re-touch paint in any areas that may need it. stay away from silicone in place of caulk as it can get messy for this type of application.
White company machine cabinet without the machine. Dates to be somewhere between the mid to late fifties to the early to mid sixties. Construction is plywood with a veneer and some sort of lacquer or shellac finish. Inside is a knee pedal that the machine can be plugged into.
Currently in progress to update and change it up a bit. Going to find wrought iron handles, or perhaps glass handles. I have scraped, soaked, and scraped some more to remove a bunch of sticky gunk from the top and inside the foldout leaf. The "stain" on the to seems to be from an old spill...nail polish remover perhaps? I will eventually mount some brackets on the inside and cut and finish a piece of wood top fit the hole where the sewing machine used to be. Then I can use the leaf if I want to use more table space as I sew.
I am debating whether I should remove all the finish, sand it down, and replace the finish, or if I should just go for sand and paint. Sir says he likes the wood coloring, and we have seen some pretty awful sewing cabinet "refinishing" work done with paint. I also don't want to lose the ruler on the inside--one if my favorite parts! But I have a lot of medium colored wooden furniture...kind of craving something different and unique!
With my job being a 3D-artist/-designer and my hobby of 3D printing I thought of a nice and experimental project related to photography. I've been very interested in generative design lately and explored a hybrid modeling technique to incorporate organic, turing pattern like surfaced into industrial design models. I chose to make this organic and somewhat alien looking grip for my Yashica Electro 35CC and print it on my MSLA printer. This project was all about experimentation and learning. So I took the opportunity to also try mixing my own resin colors. That bone like one was mixed from 3 different resin colors and the black one from 2. Besides that I recently upgraded my FDM printer to a direct drive which allows me to print rubber like material. So I also made custom rubber grommets for the base plate. To finish things off I applied a few layers of clear coat to both grips for a glossy look.
It's that time of the Pumpkin Season and I love pumpkins but I dislike carving them. Here's a better way to display your pumpkins without the hassle of cutting or carving anything. Not only it will look great, it'll last longer and it's an artwork that you created.
All you have to do is have some sharpie pens and a pumpkin.
You don't have to know how to draw, that's the beauty of doodling. Enjoy!
This Holiday is all about being creative and giving something that you make. It's more heartfelt than just buying something from the stores. Don't you agree? Plus they get to have an original. Enjoy and Happy Halloween!
View Light-tentted Canon AE-1 Program (2 of 4) on Black
View Light-tentted Canon AE-1 Program (2 of 4) Map/EXIF
Canon EOS 7D + EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 63 mm - 1/160 sec at f/22, ISO 400
Manual mode @ 0 EV E.C - Pattern metering - no flash
Subject Distance: 569.99 mm
Used the spillover of the background paper as a fill reflector for the shadows in front of the lens.
Strobist info:
2x 580EX II at 1/8th on each side of box
1x Vivitar 2800D aimed down on top of the box at full power (non manual flash)
Full instructions here.
47°34'56.23" N 122°1'49.59" W, 137 m
Kitchen Table, My Apartment
Sammamish, Washington, USA
Taken on 03.26.2011, uploaded on 03.26.2011.
©2011 Adam James Steenwyk. Please contact me at ajamess [at] gmail [dot] com if you would like to use this photo. Blog: www.f128.info
LEGO IDEAS Project Link:
beta.ideas.lego.com/product-ideas/36598dae-28b0-42f4-adf9...
Hey everyone!
Alongside my usual projects, I’ve been working on something a little different — a LEGO Ideas build of the Little Women Orchard House.
I’d love your help in making it a real LEGO set! All it takes is a quick vote on LEGO Ideas. It’s free, and your support would mean the world to me.
View Light-tentted Canon AE-1 Program (1 of 4) on Black
View Light-tentted Canon AE-1 Program (1 of 4) Map/EXIF
Canon EOS 7D + EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM @ 70 mm - 1/160 sec at f/11, ISO 100
Manual mode @ 0 EV E.C - Pattern metering - no flash
Subject Distance: 810 mm
Straight out of camera. Looks underexposed by a 1/3rd of a stop, but there are no blocked shadows / blown highlights.
Strobist info:
2x 580EX II at 1/8th on each side of box
1x Vivitar 2800D aimed down on top of the box at full power (non manual flash)
Full instructions here.
47°34'56.23" N 122°1'49.59" W, 137 m
Kitchen Table, My Apartment
Sammamish, Washington, USA
Taken on 03.26.2011, uploaded on 03.26.2011.
©2011 Adam James Steenwyk. Please contact me at ajamess [at] gmail [dot] com if you would like to use this photo. Blog: www.f128.info