Namely me, but I know I'm not alone. Perhaps this helps make up for the blood of the lamb

this morning my plan was to "catch" some morning-fog..so the alarm at 6.15 and that really hurts on your day off, but ok ..and i drove around in search for that fog...nothing..only this tiny bit..;D..so the end of the morning soaking feet from the wet fields, and with some gooodmorning pics..so the coming pics i bore you with are made with little eyes and wet feet..;D

But not a blue mood.

Strange but true, not an early April Fool.

Seem very fit a healthy and by the brightness of the cap a male. Had a bath and then preened for around 10 minutes. The bill did not seem to be a problem for him.

 

28th March 2016

(More details later, as time permits)

 

***************************

 

As I've noted in other sets of photos here on Flickr, I've been lucky enough to visit Rome dozens of times since I first celebrated a solitary birthday there back in 1972. Since then, I've often come alone (usually on business trips to lecture about various aspects of software development), and I've sometimes managed to bring various children and/or my wife. This time, like many other trips, I was alone.

 

On most of my trips, I make a point of visiting Piazza del Popolo at least once -- because there are always interesting scenes to photograph, with a combination of tourists, students, lovers, and amateur musicians. This time, there was a Michael Jackson impersonator -- who, at least from a distance, seemed to mimic MJ's fluid moves pretty well. And there was an electric guitarist, but it turned out that he could only play instrumentals -- and he tended to play the same songs, over and over again.

 

I photographed people in Piazza del Popolo on the first and last days of my visit; but I also spent a couple hours in Piazza Santa Margarita in Trastevere, where there was a wedding underway. And I strolled a block or two from my hotel to Piazza Cavour, where the entire piazza had been off-limits for years because of reconstruction work. But the reconstruction is over, the piazza is open, and I was lucky enough to be there during the "golden hour" before sunset, where I got some interesting photos of the local people enjoying a balmy early-summer evening.

 

On Sunday morning, I decided to visit the enormous "flea market" at Porta Portensa, where I did my best to get a few interesting shots of the shoppers, tourists, and long rows of merchant stalls filled with various forms of cheap, tacky merchandise. It was quite an experience...

 

As I have on past occasions, I took thousands of photos during my week-long visit, from which I select a few dozen to upload to Flickr. Hopefully they'll give you a sense of what it's like here in the Eternal City ...

Played a round of 64-man Rush where I did nothing but hang back at the uncap and snipe. Fun as hell and zero credit to team. Also broke my record killstreak & got MVP 2, despite being on the attacking team.

 

The nearest reflects me, the furthest away reflects one of the church windows.

 

Downham church...there but not there...honouring the seven men of Downham and Twiston who died in the Great War 1914-18 was completed exactly one hundred days before the anniversary of the Armistice on 11th November and will remain open until Remembrance Day. The exhibit comprises even Perspex cut-out men spread around the church in the pews that they left unoccupied one hundred years ago. At each pew there is a brief description of the fallen man and, at the back of Church, a booklet with some additional information. There is a Poppy banner at the gate inviting everyone to come inside and view the installation.

  

.

 

Johnny played to the crowds for laughs. It was a totally spontaneous characteristic, never rehearsed or forced, he had a natural talent for gaining a person's confidence and reeling them in, a devine gift for making observations and spitting them back out like a spent force. Everyone loved Johnny, they couldn't help but fall for his cheeky face and smiling eyes, the bold bravado and sense of assurance and self confidence that won over hearts and minds with consummate ease. I don't think I ever really hated him. Fear is separate from hatred, don't you think? I guess I always looked up to him being my older brother and all. Seven years the difference between us, he the strong one, me the ghost. Everybody loved Johnny.

 

In the summer of sixty four I entered the world, a tiny bundle of unplanned flesh and bones, pissing and screaming as the midwife handed me to my tired and emotional mother, laying me across her chest, beneath her sweaty facial features and red eyes, exhausted from all of the pushing and cursing that accompanied my less than text book birth. I don't think my mother ever truly forgave me for the scalpel blade that ripped at her flesh, the stitches that scarred her delicate abdomen or the invasive hands and suction cup that pulled for all it's worth to spin me around and retrieve me from her womb. It was raining when I was born. Five twenty five in the afternoon on January fourteenth, a violent storm lashing the pretty little village and it's cowering inhabitants as my father stayed away, preferring instead the comfort of the four walls of his workplace. Men were different back then, times were too. Childbirth was women's work, and husbands didn't need to be holding their wives hands and sobbing like a baby down at the business end of things, in touch with heir feminine sides as perhaps they need to be these days. At least hat's what my father would have me believe back then. Naturally I don't recall the events of my birth, I mean who would, these are the details that were subsequently given to me as I progressed through my happy childhood in the countryside that was to shape and protect me through my formative years.

 

My parents only wanted the one child, and in Johnny they had found the perfect son to mould into a mini-me of my proud and studious father. An heir to the family business, a gold painted addition to the 'J.S Lane & son' sign writing above my fathers humble little watch and clock repair empire, he was doted on, loved and adored. Then I guess I had to come along and throw a spanner in the proverbial works. A vacation to Paris, family unity, love in the air and a little caution thrown to the wind. or else some rogue birth control pills that were ineffectual. My childhood was normal enough, and my parents never once uttered a single word of disappointment in me, it was more in their actions and glances exchanged, my father never a man for any form of bodily contact being old school, army type, stiff upper lip and arms tucked behind his back as he faced the wall, his stern words rebounding off the garish wallpaper when he admonished me. And that seemed to happen a lot as I recall. You know, I can honestly say that I don't recall a single occasion that my father kissed me as a child, nor held me in a chance embrace, or called me 'son'. A second child just was not on the agenda, plans altered, the harmony unbalanced, the sibling rivalry to the fore.

 

Johnny hated me with a passion, though I always looked up to him and hoped that one day we would become good friends and myself something more than a punch bag both physically and emotionally. I was the butt of his jokes and a source for constant humiliation at school when he'd be sent to collect me each afternoon. I was his little puppet, and try as I might, I never quite managed to alter his, or my parents feelings towards me. I never wanted any part of the family business. If the truth be told I couldn't stand the musty smell of the old shop front, all those antique cuckoo clocks and Seiko watches that lined the cabinets like an army of soldiers and my father sitting at his desk beneath the light, looking old before his time as he sucked on a pipe filled with Old Holborn tobacco that rose into the air in plumes of chocking smoke. I'd be taken there after school and made to wait until closing time before we could al head home for tea, my brother full of life and cracking jokes, the bond between he and my father so evident and unbreakable. Was I jealous? I don't know that I'd describe my feelings as such. I felt left out, an outsider to the family, as though it was my fault that I had been born, a threat to the macho understanding of a father and his first born son. I was almost a rival to their love and Johnny always made sure that I was kept at arms length.

 

My only comfort was living life by the seafront that captivated my eyes and soul, seduced me with it's beauty and magnificence and offered me a safe haven in the form of a giant cave that only I knew existed. Accessible at high tide with my little wooden rowing boat, the soft sand welcomed me inside to a further stretch of dark seawater into which one day I dived headlong in the name of curiosity, taken to an underwater world of spider crabs and seaweed and up into a recessed cavern that became the focal point of my childhood pleasure. Away from Jonny I was king to rule, my own secret hideaway that even he could not contaminate nor destroy. The seventies were fun for me, safer days, less red tape and warning signs, protocol and health and safety doctrines to prevent me from having some fun. Gawdy tank tops that were worse than something your own grandmother would knit, seventeen and twenty one inch flared jeans and platform shoes. I didn't ask for much from life. I was truly happy there in my cave capturing seashells, writing my name on the walls, being free of the stigma and shackles of my family life. Seventy three and David Bowie was in the charts with 'Life on Mars' reissued on orange labelled RCA vinyl from 'Hunky Dory' a couple of years earlier. I can recall the excitement of each new single he released and the aroma of the freshly cut vinyl. I used to grab the Hoover and sing into the handle, miming badly, just a stupid nine year old doing dumb assed things. Johnny, aged sixteen, now spent most of his time at he shop, attending to the jobs that my father gave to him whilst Mother worked part time at the local Infant school to break the tedium of her monotonous existence, taking crafty G&T's each afternoon from the Gordon's bottle hidden oh so neatly behind the front room book cabinet in the little darkened recess, and flirting for attention with the PE teacher at the school.

 

The beatings continued along with the humiliation and name calling and Johnny always came out of any shit he landed in, smelling sweetly of roses, whilst I could do no right, it seemed at the time. But I had my cave and my little boat, and trinkets that I had moved there in sealed plastic bags that made my cave feel personal and home. But things can change in the blink of an eye I guess. What once seemed rock solid and so exquisitely personal can be laid bare, ruined, broken up in front of you in the blink of an eye, and I should have know that my big brother would seek to dominate and destroy all that I held secret and dear even though he had everything in life that he could possibly desire, including a stupid sibling as his fall guy.

 

Standing here now, almost forty years after the events of that fateful day, eyes surveying the confines of the outer section of my little cave with the same wonderment and wide eyes excitement as back then when I was no more than a snotty kid, I feel a certain numbness to the whole sequence of events, a detachment from reality almost as deep and abiding as the attachment I felt with my own family as I grew to dislike and despise them for how they treated me. Resigned acceptance, belligerent disregard, blatant indifference and the turning of the cheek to my requests to be heard, to be loved, to be wanted. I'm transported back to August 25th nineteen seventy three, me in my polkadot swimming trunks, standing here with Johnny ahead of me laughing and teasing me, aggressive stance and hands that slapped my face so hard I think I can still feel the sting, even now. He'd followed me and discovered my secret and now sought to destroy everything that was precious to me. I screamed in pain, tears streaming down my face, yelling that he'd never get to my comfort spot as I dived into the water and began to navigate the precarious channel through the rocks that lead to my personal Utopia of sand and memories.

 

Precarious, yes. But not to the sinuous flesh of a nine year old who had made that perilous journey through the seaweed that grappled and grabbed at my ankles each and every time, and the sharp bend in the jagged rocks where I almost turned back on myself and down through a gulley to the light of the cave end. The as larger framed and older boy with a lack of navigational skills, such distractions might snag and obscure, a t-shirt might perhaps snag on a jutting rock, and air and water mingle and mix in lungs that were ill prepared for being immersed so long as limbs flailed and tried desperately to free themselves.

 

I never really meant to cause Johnny any real harm. Nor did I actually kill him. The water did that as his lungs filled and he swallowed more than he could expel, nostrils drowning as his eyes bulged and his body became lifeless as it was impaled upon the gulley, a host of spider crabs witness to his final demise, the final crowd of crustaceans that he played out to. A terrible accident, a fluke as two brothers played in a cave, a distraught father who's entire world came crashing down around him that glorious August day and a mother too drunk and scented in sex as she lay in the arms of her lover to comprehend the death of her beloved eldest son until she'd sobered up well enough to grieve and realise just how little she liked this mess of a life.

 

Forty seven and lined with life's journey on these feature both physically and emotionally. This homecoming is of pleasure and pain as I retrace the footsteps of my childhood to this little cave that saved me from the madness and delivered me from the pain of life itself. The little shop has long since gone, changed hands, façade repainted, wood replaced with double glazing and plastic and now a boutique selling hand mad flower power bags that hark back to the era of my birth. My parents are marked by respectful headstones though I only visited once, maybe twice. Flowers for the dead seems such a waste of beauty and life to me, and it's not as though they get the benefit of the damn things, is it. The water still sits in the rear of the cave, and I have half a mind to dive in and swim through that gulley to remember my past, but I know that these old limbs would struggle somewhat these days. Times change, memories soften and the bitterness and acrimonious feelings are eroded like the sea to jagged rock faces, all smoothed and appealing.

 

I smile wryly as I recount the events that fateful day. Yeah, sure, fate played her part all right, and I'm grateful to her for my salvation. You know, Johnny played to the crowds, and then some. He could have had it all if not for his greed and insecurities, his hatred of the runt created in the heat of a passion that was a lie, so shallow and unworthy of his cruellest intentions. And me? I'm all grown up and doing just fine now with the money salvaged from the sale of the family business, a wife and kids who love me and I love back in oceans of touch and words. Just look at that little runt now.........

 

.

 

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Written April 11th 2011

 

Photograph taken on April 10th 2011 in Botany Bay, Broadstairs, Kent, England

 

Nikon D700 14mm 1/100s f/16.0 iso200

 

Nikkor AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED IF, UV filter

 

“A Little Tale”…

 

I am a vampire. Not a very good one, to be honest, but a vampire, nonetheless. I despise hunting, let alone killing, animals and humans. Bugs, spiders, and insects, I don’t mind. I don’t care about them. In fact, I am simply delighted when a big black spider crawls into my coffin and I awake and there before me is a little treat to feast on!

 

It is very difficult not to feed on humans and animals. If you are not a vampire, well, then you have no idea how great, strong, and painful the hunger to feed on human blood is. It engulfs every cell and every thought in your body and mind. It consumes you. All you can think of is thick sweet gooey rich blood.

 

But, in spite of being a vampire, I am quite lucky. I am a doctor. I work the night shift at a downtown poor community hospital. So, when no one is looking, I slip into the blood bank and raid the refrigerators until satiated. I am also able to bring some of the blood and plasma home with me so I will always have a supply. I store it appropriately in specially designed refrigeration units which are located in the deepest reaches of my inner basement where no prying eyes will ever find it.

 

I realize that my feasting on the hospital’s blood deprives humans of blood they may need, but the community hospital always has blood drives so their supply is non ending.

 

Working in a poor community hospital has its advantages and drawbacks. As far as advantages go…because it’s for the poor, management keeps the building much much darker than a regular hospital. So, I do not have to face bright glaring lights. And, no one can see how pale I am. Plus, the staff stays to themselves and does no socializing at all because most of them are at this hospital because they were either fired from another or they did not have the necessary qualifications to obtain employment at a better hospital.

 

On the disadvantage side, it takes all my willpower to contain my hunger and need for blood, when I see blood in a vial, on a human, on the floor or anywhere else. No matter how bad the patient, I have to slip away and feast on the blood in the blood bank before I can go back to the patient and work on them. Satiated, I can do the job of a doctor. Unfulfilled, well, I could not. But, not once have I, to date, taken a human’s or animal’s life for their blood.

 

I come from a long long line of vampires. Not many people are aware of this, but a vampire can give birth and when she does, her offspring is also a vampire. When they suckle her breasts, they are fed their mother’s blood, not milk like human babies. So, I have known no other life than that of a vampire. I have never seen the sunlight or been awake in the daylight.

 

My family viewed me early on as an oddity because I would not feast on a living being. They wrote it off as a genetic defect or something of the sort. For you see, my family loves to feast on human blood and feel it wash over their tongue, slide down their throbbing throats, and refresh their bodies and organs. They love to kill. It is bred into them and they have mastered that skill perfectly.

 

Well, just look at our family crest on the top of my coffin lid. Yes, we are a vampire family of high standing and, thus, we do have a crest. But, my family crest is that of the Dark Angel. The black wings represent those of the Dark Angel himself and the silver crown signifies, not only our rank, but its placement at the cusp of the wings, says that we, or my family at least, are devoted followers and servants of the Dark Angel. We do His bidding when asked.

 

All of our coffins carry this crest on the outside and inside is dirt from our original homeland thousands of years ago in Egypt.

 

Me, I don’t follow the Dark Angel. So, that puts me between Heaven and Hell. I am in no man’s land, to coin a human phrase. I am hoping, since it was not my doing or choice to become a vampire, and I have not feasted on one human or animal…ever, that when the time comes for me to die, that the Power that is in the Light will take these things into account, and I will be absolved and looked upon favorably. And, I will be allowed to pass through the Gate of Heaven, not hell.

 

Yes, I said die. Vampires do die. Usually at the hands of humans who discover their true nature, so it is a matter of time. Or they, for some reason, are unable to make it back to their coffins before the sun rises, and they fry in the sun. In my occupation, I have to be extremely carefully not to let myself get caught up in human affairs and let my shift run over into the morning, so I do not find myself outside, running home, as the sun rises and the day starts.

 

Well, my shift will be coming to an end. I need to feast on blood now to prevent the hunger and thirst for it from starting as I make my way home to my waiting coffin. And, I need to move quickly to assure I am well on my way well before the sun starts to rise.

~Marsha J. West, Author*

 

*This is my original creation and design. It is my creative property. It cannot be copied, resold or reproduced. The same holds true for the “A Little Tale”. That is my original story. It is my creative property and cannot be copied, reprinted, duplicated, used in any medium without prior permission from me or used by you for one of your pieces.

  

Those who do not live in Scotland may be unaware that this YES sign indicates an affirmative response to the question "Should Scotland be an independent country?".

 

In a referendum to be held on 18 September 2014 this issue will be decided by those who are registered to vote in Scotland.

 

In my view, the underlying belief of those on the YES side is that it is right and proper for a nation to aspire to govern itself, that it may experience difficulties in doing so but in working through those difficulties it will develop the maturity required to hold its head high in the community of nations. The YES side believes that now is the time to "grasp the thistle".

 

The NO side appears to hold the view either (i) that a 'mature nation' status is not worth working for or (ii) that, while it might be desirable to become a mature nation, the inevitable difficulties could not be overcome.

 

I listened live to the 2 hours and 40 minutes of this parliamentary debate and thought that Mike Russell's ten minute winding-up speech (transcript below) characterised by its positive approach, exemplified that contrast with the negative approach of his opponents during that debate.

 

THE PARLIAMENT OF SCOTS (12 AUGUST 2014)

 

DEBATE ON THE ECONOMIC OPPORTUNITIES OF INDEPENDENCE

 

WINDING UP SPEECH FROM MIKE RUSSELL

 

Official report:-

 

The Deputy Presiding Officer:

Thank you. I call Michael Russell to wind up the debate. Cabinet secretary, you have until 5 o’clock.

 

16:49

 

The Cabinet Secretary for Education and Lifelong Learning (Michael Russell):

Let me give the chamber a revelation: I think that on the evidence of this afternoon’s debate there are no votes in this chamber that are up for grabs in the referendum and that it is pretty clear that there are no undecideds on these benches.

 

However, there might be some undecideds watching at home. I suspect that they might well have turned off by now, particularly after Jenny Marra’s speech, but if they are still watching I suggest to them that, if they are trying to come to a judgment on the basis of this debate—there are people in the gallery who might want to make such a judgment—they should do so on the basis of what has been the positive view and what has been the negative view.

 

Look at the positive view that all my colleagues in the chamber have expressed and at the endless, destructive negativity that we have heard from Labour, the Liberals and the Tories.

 

I will start with the clearest view of the currency issue. As ever, the First Minister got it right in the chamber last week. I will repeat his exact words. He said:

 

“It is our pound, and we are keeping it.”

 

There are no ifs and no buts. That is the guarantee. That is plan A to Z. For the benefit of those who are still trying to frighten people out of what is theirs—people such as Mr Henry, who asserted that Scots will not be able to buy food or go on holiday after independence, and Mr Fraser, who tellingly referred—

  

Hugh Henry:

Will the cabinet secretary take an intervention?

  

Michael Russell:

No, I will not. I am sorry; one contribution from Mr Henry in an afternoon is more than enough.

 

Mr Fraser referred to the currency belonging to someone else, which was very interesting. I will repeat what the First Minister said so that there can be no doubt. He said:

 

“It is our pound, and we are keeping it.”—[Official Report, 7 August 2014; c 33159.]

  

Hugh Henry:

On a point of order, Presiding Officer. Mr Russell has just made a statement in which he attributed words to me that I did not say. Is it in order for members to fabricate words that were not said during the debate and attribute them to other members? [Interruption.]

  

The Deputy Presiding Officer:

Order, please. What members say in their speeches is entirely up to them. It is not for me to decide what they should and should not say. However, the Official Report undoubtedly shows every word that has been said in the chamber.

  

Michael Russell:

I am sure that Mr Henry will reflect on that when he looks at what he has said about me and my writings. I am sure that he will think about that carefully. Mr Henry’s words speak for themselves, as does his depressing demeanour.

 

The debate has been one of great contrasts. I go back to positivity and negativity. My friend Mr Swinney talked about ambition, achievement, resources, potential and raising the eyes of Scotland to what can be achieved. In my area of special interest, he talked about the need for transformative childcare and the world-leading position of Scottish higher education. What was the result? [Interruption.]

  

The Deputy Presiding Officer:

Order, please.

  

Michael Russell:

The result was that, 10 minutes in, Mr Rennie gave the knee-jerk plan B its first outing. Mr Brown then leapt back in. Project fear was in there working hard.

 

The other side of the unionist coin then showed itself. It was quite stunning. Alex Johnstone chuntered on from a sedentary position about the fact that everything that was mentioned was a product of the wonderful union, but he was interrupted by Jenny Marra, who said that everything was the result of the failed SNP. There we have it: that is a contrast. Labour hates the SNP more than anybody else, and the Tories love the union more than anything else. Neither of those is a prescription for a safe future.

 

Believing that a Labour Government will remove weapons of mass destruction is also not a prescription for a safe future. There is no evidence for that whatsoever. How else are we to get rid of weapons of mass destruction, except by independence? That is the reality.

 

It was telling that, when Mr Swinney mentioned Trident and what we need to do, the reaction from Labour and the Tories and even from the sole Lib Dem who was there was derision. They want to put bombs before bairns and Trident before teachers. That is their shame.

 

Let me carry on.

  

Neil Bibby (West Scotland) (Lab):

Will the cabinet secretary take an intervention?

  

Michael Russell:

No, I will not take an intervention. I am sorry.

 

The reality of the debate was shown clearly. It was about that negative view. Nothing could be done. We had to ask what that was about. Maureen Watt got it 100 per cent right. She analysed the debate early on. The great fear that exists in project fear is the could-should-must progression. If any member on the Labour benches could admit that Scotland could be independent—I will come to Elaine Murray in a moment, as she did that momentarily—the whole fantasy will collapse.

 

The reason why it collapses is that that leads to the argument that Scotland should be independent, which is the argument that my colleagues made this afternoon. It goes a step further to the argument that Scotland must be independent.

 

The biggest illustration of that was given by Malcolm Chisholm. Yet again, I was saddened by a speech by Malcolm Chisholm. I have admiration and time for Malcolm Chisholm; he is laughing, but I do. I do not think that he and I differ very much in some of the things that we want to see, but here is the difference. [Interruption.]

  

The Presiding Officer (Tricia Marwick):

Order.

  

Michael Russell:

Labour members want to laugh at this, because it is beginning to strike home.

 

The difference is that I and my colleagues have a plan for how to achieve those things. We know how poverty can be eliminated in Scotland. We know—

  

Iain Gray:

Will the minister give way?

  

Michael Russell:

No—I want to finish my point.

 

I know that it is annoying to Iain Gray, but the truth of the matter is that it is possible to have a plan to change Scotland and to do those things. We can set out with those intentions and we can work hard to meet them, or we can—as Labour members would have us do—simply keep our fingers crossed that we get a Labour Government that could possibly pursue the things that they want to see in Scotland rather than the things that Ed Balls and Miliband want to see south of the border. I say to Malcolm Chisholm that that is not a plan: that is keeping your fingers crossed and putting party before principle.

  

Malcolm Chisholm:

The cabinet secretary may have a plan, but the whole point of all the Labour speeches has been to point out that it is not a plan that can be delivered without an economic foundation. Before he gives us any more claptrap about the negativity of Labour members, will he reflect on the fact that by far the biggest and most disgraceful scare of the referendum campaign is what the yes side is saying about the NHS? [Interruption.]

  

The Presiding Officer:

Order! Order!

  

Michael Russell:

How interesting. Mr Chisholm is being wildly applauded by Jackson Carlaw, who—

  

The Presiding Officer:

Sit down, Mr Russell.

 

That is quite enough. There is far too much heckling and far too much noise. The minister is speaking, so allow him to do so. This is a Parliament; it is not a public meeting or a hustings. There are people in Scotland who are listening to the debate. Make it worthy of them.

  

Michael Russell:

Why was Jackson Carlaw—the person who got so agitated about the issue of the NHS last week—applauding so much? Because we have hit the nail on the head. If the financial power lies outside Scotland, the decision on the priorities of Scotland and how to deliver those priorities will always lie outside Scotland, too. For every £100 by which expenditure is reduced south of the border through privatisation of the health service—privatisation that was started by Labour—£10 is lost from the Scottish budget.

  

Neil Findlay:

Will the cabinet secretary give way?

  

Michael Russell:

No.

 

For every £100 that is removed from public expenditure through privatisation of higher education south of the border, we lose £10. That is the reality. That is the nub of the debate. We can choose to make our decisions in Scotland, to take our responsibilities in Scotland and to have opportunities in Scotland, or we can always dance to someone else’s tune.

 

Malcolm Chisholm wants to see the progress in Scotland that I want to see. I repeat what I said earlier: the SNP has the plan to do that. It puts its confidence—[Interruption.] We can hear the Tories laughing; we can always hear the Tories laughing when the people of Scotland want to progress.

 

Here is the choice: we can say to the people of Scotland, “Take responsibility, and then you will have the opportunity to change this country for the better”; or we can tell them to listen to those who will not accept the reality and who will always keep their fingers crossed that England votes the same way that they do. Those voices will always disappoint and let down the people of Scotland. That has got to stop.

 

The lesson this afternoon is entirely clear: there is a jobs plan for an independent Scotland, there is a finance plan for an independent Scotland, there is a currency plan for an independent Scotland and there is a plan to make an independent Scotland the country that it could and should be. The people who stand in the way of that are this unholy alliance between Labour and the Tories.

  

The Presiding Officer:

You need to finish, cabinet secretary.

  

Michael Russell:

They are the people who have plenty of ambition for their political parties and none for their country. [Applause.]

  

The Presiding Officer:

Order.

 

That concludes the debate on the economic opportunities of independence.

 

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SUNDAY TIMES - 21st September 2014

 

Michael Russell

 

In a sense I have been campaigning for independence across Scotland not just in the last four weeks but for forty years. But I don't think I have ever had such an emotional political experience as last Saturday standing in the Station Square in Oban listening to Dougie Maclean sing his anthem of Scottishness, Caledonia.

 

It didn't matter that someone had forgotten to bring an extension lead, so there was no power for the microphone. It was irrelevant that an early sea mist, now burning off, had prevented the First Minister from making a helicopter campaign stop and equally irrelevant was the stretch limo with a huge "NO thanks" logo tied round it ( one of the bizzarest sights of the campaign) that kept cruising past. Dougie sang and 250 people - young and old, from all parties but mostly none, sang along with a quiet intensity that brought tears to my eyes and to eyes of many others.

 

That event started a whole day of remarkable activities - a car cavalcade of more than sixty vehicles that wound its way across Mid Argyll with so many participants that a church hall in Lochgilphead had to be commandeered to feed them, a flash mob of dancers and musicians on a green beside the sea and finally a laser show lighting up a huge YES sign on the island of Kerrera in the bay facing the town.

 

This was politics, but not as I have known it. YES Scotland started out as an umbrella organisation and ended up as a mass movement . It's creativity and energy was replicated not just across my constituency - in Dunoon, in Campbeltown, in Rothesay, in Lochgoilhead, on Islay and on Mull - but across the whole of Scotland in a diverse, multi layered movement that demanded and will go on demanding not only attention but also real change.

 

Although Thursday night delivered a bitter blow to many of those who had invested so much of themselves in that movement I do not think it will go away. Indeed it must not go away. It's commitment, enthusiasm and vigour are needed as never before if Scotland is to move forward united.

 

It is this movement that can really test the will of politicians to deliver the new dispensation that the Westminster parties promised in the final days of the campaign and it is this movement that can press an agenda that is focussed on outcomes which benefit and empower real people not just the political classes.

 

As Alex Salmond said on Friday in his moving resignation statement, holding Westminster to account for the delivery of its new promises has to be done by the whole of Scotland and that process needs to be lead by citizens themselves. If it changes and benefits all the parts of the present UK so much the better as long as that not an excuse for endless delay.

 

I have undertaken more than sixty public meetings in Argyll & Bute over the past nine months. One of the biggest took place on Ardrishaig the night before the Dougie MacLean event at which I shared a platform with Professor Allan MacInnes and Lesley Riddoch, both longstanding friends. Lesley spoke about this new politics too and was given a standing ovation by the over capacity crowd jammed into a tiny church hall. That enthusiasm reflected growing demand for a different set of priorities and a changed way of doing things - bottom up not top down.

 

That is what independence is but it's core values - fairness, equity, hope, opportunity, equality, justice - go well beyond the the 1.6 million who chose that option. Lots of voters on both sides were sending a message about the need for those things that cannot now be ignored.

 

That is why the "faster, safer and better" change offered in the 3 UK leaders Daily Record "Vow" was in the end persuasive for so many. They disagreed on the means but not on the ends.

 

So that is also why the SNP as the Scottish Government has to be an active part of the process now being outlined by the UK Government. We must heed the urgings of those we have worked with and take part in a constructive, urgent and focussed process to decide on the range of powers required and accelerate their introduction whilst ensuring that they are devolved further into communities and made capable of adaptation to local need and local direction.

 

That will not be easy for anyone but it is the essential next step - a step demanded by Thursday's result and which can also act as a unifying mechanism. We can help make a new Team Scotland and learn from it though it will be a Team Scotland weakened when not led by Alex Salmond, to whom the whole country owes an enormous political debt.

 

I am undoubtedly still a nationalist and I want to see independence. But this referendum campaign, undertaken in an Indian summer of warm sunshine amongst the most beautiful scenery in the world, criss crossing sea lochs, sailing to islands and motoring amongst mountains, has taught me a great deal.

 

A passionate desire for a better country is shared by many of our fellow citizens, young and old inside and outside conventional politics. A different set of priorities and policies - some already introduced by an SNP Government over the past 7 years - is possible. Alienation from politics and society isn't inevitable because inspiration casts out indifference. Decisions are better when made with people, not for them.

 

I have had the great pleasure of an invigorating campaign in Dalmally and Dunoon, on Luing and Lismore, through Glendaruel (where I live) and Glen Barr and by the shores of Loch Etive and Loch Riddon. The conclusion of those journeys was not the one I hoped for a month ago when the Sunday Times asked me to contribute at the end of the campaign. But the people have spoken and when that happens politicians have to listen - wherever they are.

Grand Canyon National Park, located in northwestern Arizona, is the 15th site in the United States to have been named as a national park. The park's central feature is the Grand Canyon, a gorge of the Colorado River, which is often considered one of the Wonders of the World. The park, which covers 1,217,262 acres (1,901.972 sq mi; 4,926.08 km2) of unincorporated area in Coconino and Mohave counties, received more than six million recreational visitors in 2017, which is the second highest count of all American national parks after Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The Grand Canyon was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979. The park celebrated its 100th anniversary on February 26, 2019.

 

The Grand Canyon became well known to Americans in the 1880s after railroads were built and pioneers developed infrastructure and early tourism. In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt visited the site and said,

 

The Grand Canyon fills me with awe. It is beyond comparison—beyond description; absolutely unparalleled through-out the wide world ... Let this great wonder of nature remain as it now is. Do nothing to mar its grandeur, sublimity and loveliness. You cannot improve on it. But you can keep it for your children, your children's children, and all who come after you, as the one great sight which every American should see.

 

Despite Roosevelt's enthusiasm and strong interest in preserving land for public use, the Grand Canyon was not immediately designated as a national park. The first bill to establish Grand Canyon National Park was introduced in 1882 by then-Senator Benjamin Harrison, which would have established Grand Canyon as the third national park in the United States, after Yellowstone and Mackinac. Harrison unsuccessfully reintroduced his bill in 1883 and 1886; after his election to the presidency, he established the Grand Canyon Forest Reserve in 1893. Theodore Roosevelt created the Grand Canyon Game Preserve by proclamation on November 28, 1906, and the Grand Canyon National Monument on January 11, 1908. Further Senate bills to establish the site as a national park were introduced and defeated in 1910 and 1911, before the Grand Canyon National Park Act was finally signed by President Woodrow Wilson on February 26, 1919. The National Park Service, established in 1916, assumed administration of the park.

 

The creation of the park was an early success of the conservation movement. Its national park status may have helped thwart proposals to dam the Colorado River within its boundaries. (Later, the Glen Canyon Dam would be built upriver.) A second Grand Canyon National Monument to the west was proclaimed in 1932. In 1975, that monument and Marble Canyon National Monument, which was established in 1969 and followed the Colorado River northeast from the Grand Canyon to Lees Ferry, were made part of Grand Canyon National Park. In 1979, UNESCO declared the park a World Heritage Site. The 1987 the National Parks Overflights Act found that "Noise associated with aircraft overflights at the Grand Canyon National Park is causing a significant adverse effect on the natural quiet and experience of the park and current aircraft operations at the Grand Canyon National Park have raised serious concerns regarding public safety, including concerns regarding the safety of park users."

 

In 2010, Grand Canyon National Park was honored with its own coin under the America the Beautiful Quarters program. On February 26, 2019, the Grand Canyon National Park commemorated 100 years since its designation as a national park.

 

The Grand Canyon had been part of the National Park Service's Intermountain Region until 2018.[citation needed] Today, the Grand Canyon is a part of Region 8, also known as the Lower Colorado Basin.

 

The Grand Canyon, including its extensive system of tributary canyons, is valued for its combination of size, depth, and exposed layers of colorful rocks dating back to Precambrian times. The canyon itself was created by the incision of the Colorado River and its tributaries after the Colorado Plateau was uplifted, causing the Colorado River system to develop along its present path.

 

The primary public areas of the park are the South and North Rims, and adjacent areas of the canyon itself. The rest of the park is extremely rugged and remote, although many places are accessible by pack trail and backcountry roads. The South Rim is more accessible than the North Rim and accounts for 90% of park visitation.

 

The park headquarters are at Grand Canyon Village, not far from the South Entrance to the park, near one of the most popular viewpoints.

 

Most visitors to the park come to the South Rim, arriving on Arizona State Route 64. The highway enters the park through the South Entrance, near Tusayan, Arizona, and heads eastward, leaving the park through the East Entrance. Interstate 40 provides access to the area from the south. From the north, U.S. Route 89 connects Utah, Colorado, and the North Rim to the South Rim. Overall, some 30 miles of the South Rim are accessible by road.

 

The North Rim area of the park is located on the Kaibab Plateau and Walhalla Plateau, directly across the Grand Canyon from the principal visitor areas on the South Rim. The North Rim's principal visitor areas are centered around Bright Angel Point. The North Rim is higher in elevation than the South Rim, at over 8,000 feet (2,400 m) of elevation. Because it is so much higher than the South Rim, it is closed from December 1 through May 15 each year, due to the enhanced snowfall at elevation. Visitor services are closed or limited in scope after October 15. Driving time from the South Rim to the North Rim is about 4.5 hours, over 220 miles (350 km).

 

There are few roads on the North Rim, but there are some notable vehicle-accessible lookout points, including Point Imperial, Roosevelt Point, and Cape Royal. Mule rides are also available to a variety of places, including several thousand feet down into the canyon.

 

Many visitors to the North Rim choose to make use of the variety of hiking trails including the Widforss Trail, Uncle Jim's Trail, the Transept Trail, and the North Kaibab Trail. The North Kaibab Trail can be followed all the way down to the Colorado River, connecting across the river to the South Kaibab Trail and the Bright Angel Trail, which continue up to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

 

The Toroweap Overlook is located in the western part of the park on the North Rim. Access is via unpaved roads off Route 389 west of Fredonia, Arizona. The roads lead through Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument and to the overlook.

 

A variety of activities at the South Rim cater to park visitors. A driving tour (35 miles (56 km)) along the South Rim is split into two segments. The western drive to Hermit's Point is eight miles (13 km) with several overlooks along the way, including Mohave Point, Hopi Point, and the Powell Memorial. From March to December, access to Hermit's Rest is restricted to the free shuttle provided by the Park Service. The eastern portion to Desert View is 25 miles (40 km), and is open to private vehicles year round.

 

Walking tours include the Rim Trail, which runs west from the Pipe Creek viewpoint for about eight miles (13 km) of paved road, followed by seven miles (11 km) unpaved to Hermit's Rest. Hikes can begin almost anywhere along this trail, and a shuttle can return hikers to their point of origin. Mather Point, the first view most people reach when entering from the south entrance, is a popular place to begin.

 

Private canyon flyovers are provided by helicopters and small airplanes out of Las Vegas, Phoenix, and Grand Canyon National Park Airport. Due to a crash in the 1990s, scenic flights are no longer allowed to fly within 1,500 feet (460 m) of the rim within the Grand Canyon National Park. Flights within the canyon are still available outside of park boundaries.

 

Arizona is a state in the Southwestern region of the United States. Arizona is part of the Four Corners region with Utah to the north, Colorado to the northeast, and New Mexico to the east; its other neighboring states are Nevada to the northwest, California to the west and the Mexican states of Sonora and Baja California to the south and southwest. It is the 6th-largest and the 14th-most-populous of the 50 states. Its capital and largest city is Phoenix.

 

Arizona is the 48th state and last of the contiguous states to be admitted to the Union, achieving statehood on February 14, 1912. Historically part of the territory of Alta California and Nuevo México in New Spain, it became part of independent Mexico in 1821. After being defeated in the Mexican–American War, Mexico ceded much of this territory to the United States in 1848, where the area became part of the territory of New Mexico. The southernmost portion of the state was acquired in 1853 through the Gadsden Purchase.

 

Southern Arizona is known for its desert climate, with very hot summers and mild winters. Northern Arizona features forests of pine, Douglas fir, and spruce trees; the Colorado Plateau; mountain ranges (such as the San Francisco Mountains); as well as large, deep canyons, with much more moderate summer temperatures and significant winter snowfalls. There are ski resorts in the areas of Flagstaff, Sunrise, and Tucson. In addition to the internationally known Grand Canyon National Park, which is one of the world's seven natural wonders, there are several national forests, national parks, and national monuments.

 

Arizona's population and economy have grown dramatically since the 1950s because of inward migration, and the state is now a major hub of the Sun Belt. Cities such as Phoenix and Tucson have developed large, sprawling suburban areas. Many large companies, such as PetSmart and Circle K, have headquarters in the state, and Arizona is home to major universities, including the University of Arizona and Arizona State University. The state is known for a history of conservative politicians such as Barry Goldwater and John McCain, though it has become a swing state since the 1990s.

 

Arizona is home to a diverse population. About one-quarter of the state is made up of Indian reservations that serve as the home of 27 federally recognized Native American tribes, including the Navajo Nation, the largest in the state and the United States, with more than 300,000 citizens. Since the 1980s, the proportion of Hispanics in the state's population has grown significantly owing to migration from Mexico. A substantial portion of the population are followers of the Roman Catholic Church and the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

 

The history of Arizona encompasses the Paleo-Indian, Archaic, Post-Archaic, Spanish, Mexican, and American periods. About 10,000 to 12,000 years ago, Paleo-Indians settled in what is now Arizona. A few thousand years ago, the Ancestral Puebloan, the Hohokam, the Mogollon and the Sinagua cultures inhabited the state. However, all of these civilizations mysteriously disappeared from the region in the 15th and 16th centuries. Today, countless ancient ruins can be found in Arizona. Arizona was part of the state of Sonora, Mexico from 1822, but the settled population was small. In 1848, under the terms of the Mexican Cession the United States took possession of Arizona above the Gila River after the Mexican War, and became part of the Territory of New Mexico. By means of the Gadsden Purchase, the United States secured the northern part of the state of Sonora, which is now Arizona south of the Gila River in 1854.

 

In 1863, Arizona was split off from the Territory of New Mexico to form the Arizona Territory. The remoteness of the region was eased by the arrival of railroads in 1880. Arizona became a state in 1912 but was primarily rural with an economy based on cattle, cotton, citrus, and copper. Dramatic growth came after 1945, as retirees and young families who appreciated the warm weather and low costs emigrated from the Northeast and Midwest.

 

In the Mexican–American War, the garrison commander avoided conflict with Lieutenant Colonel Cooke and the Mormon Battalion, withdrawing while the Americans marched through the town on their way to California. In the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo (1848), Mexico ceded to the U.S. the northern 70% of modern-day Arizona above the Sonora border along the Gila River. During the California Gold Rush, an upwards of 50,000 people traveled through on the Southern Emigrant Trail pioneered by Cooke, to reach the gold fields in 1849. The Pima Villages often sold fresh food and provided relief to distressed travelers among this throng and to others in subsequent years.

 

Paleo-Indians settled what is now Arizona around 10,000 to 12,000 years ago. According to most archaeologists, the Paleo-Indians initially followed herds of big game—megafauna such as mammoths, mastodons, and bison—into North America. The traveling groups also collected and utilized a wide variety of smaller game animals, fish, and a wide variety of plants. These people were likely characterized by highly mobile bands of approximately 20 or 50 members of an extended family, moving from place to place as resources were depleted and additional supplies needed. Paleoindian groups were efficient hunters and created and carried a variety of tools, some highly specialized, for hunting, butchering and hide processing. These paleolithic people utilized the environment that they lived in near water sources, including rivers, swamps and marshes, which had an abundance of fish, and drew birds and game animals. Big game, including bison, mammoths and ground sloths, also were attracted to these water sources. At the latest by 9500 BCE, bands of hunters wandered as far south as Arizona, where they found a desert grassland and hunted mule deer, antelope and other small mammals.

 

As populations of larger game began to diminish, possibly as a result of intense hunting and rapid environmental changes, Late Paleoindian groups would come to rely more on other facets of their subsistence pattern, including increased hunting of bison, mule deer and antelope. Nets and the atlatl to hunt water fowl, ducks, small animals and antelope. Hunting was especially important in winter and spring months when plant foods were scarce.

 

The Archaic time frame is defined culturally as a transition from a hunting/gathering lifestyle to one involving agriculture and permanent, if only seasonally occupied, settlements. In the Southwest, the Archaic is generally dated from 8000 years ago to approximately 1800 to 2000 years ago. During this time the people of the southwest developed a variety of subsistence strategies, all using their own specific techniques. The nutritive value of weed and grass seeds was discovered and flat rocks were used to grind flour to produce gruels and breads. This use of grinding slabs in about 7500 BCE marks the beginning of the Archaic tradition. Small bands of people traveled throughout the area, gathering plants such as cactus fruits, mesquite beans, acorns, and pine nuts and annually establishing camps at collection points.

 

Late in the Archaic Period, corn, probably introduced into the region from central Mexico, was planted near camps with permanent water access. Distinct types of corn have been identified in the more well-watered highlands and the desert areas, which may imply local mutation or successive introduction of differing species. Emerging domesticated crops also included beans and squash.

 

About 3,500 years ago, climate change led to changing patterns in water sources, leading to a dramatically decreased population. However, family-based groups took shelter in south facing caves and rock overhangs within canyon walls. Occasionally, these people lived in small semisedentary hamlets in open areas. Evidence of significant occupation has been found in the northern part of Arizona.

 

In the Post-Archaic period, the Ancestral Puebloan, the Hohokam, the Mogollon and Sinagua cultures inhabited what is now Arizona. These cultures built structures made out of stone. Some of the structures that these cultures built are called pueblos. Pueblos are monumental structures that housed dozens to thousands of people. In some Ancestral Puebloan towns and villages, Hohokam towns and villages, Mogollon towns and villages, and Sinagua towns and villages, the pueblo housed the entire town. Surrounding the pueblos were often farms where farmers would plant and harvest crops to feed the community. Sometimes, pueblos and other buildings were built in caves in cliffs.

 

The Ancestral Puebloans were an ancient Pre-Columbian Native American civilization that spanned the present-day Four Corners region of the United States, comprising southeastern Utah, northeastern Arizona, northwestern New Mexico, and southwestern Colorado. The Ancestral Puebloans are believed to have developed, at least in part, from the Oshara tradition, who developed from the Picosa culture.

 

They lived in a range of structures that included small family pit houses, larger structures to house clans, grand pueblos, and cliff-sited dwellings for defense. The Ancestral Puebloans possessed a complex network that stretched across the Colorado Plateau linking hundreds of communities and population centers. They held a distinct knowledge of celestial sciences that found form in their architecture. The kiva, a congregational space that was used chiefly for ceremonial purposes, was an integral part of this ancient people's community structure. Some of their most impressive structures were built in what is now Arizona.

 

Hohokam was a Pre-Columbian culture in the North American Southwest in what is now part of Arizona, United States, and Sonora, Mexico. Hohokam practiced a specific culture, sometimes referred to as Hohokam culture, which has been distinguished by archeologists. People who practiced the culture can be called Hohokam as well, but more often, they are distinguished as Hohokam people to avoid confusion.

 

Most archaeologists agree that the Hohokam culture existed between c. 300 and c. 1450 CE, but cultural precursors may have been in the area as early as 300 BC. Whether Hohokam culture was unified politically remains under controversy. Hohokam culture may have just given unrelated neighboring communities common ground to help them to work together to survive their harsh desert environment.

 

The Mogollon culture was an ancient Pre-Columbian culture of Native American peoples from Southern New Mexico and Arizona, Northern Sonora and Chihuahua, and Western Texas. The northern part of this region is Oasisamerica, while the southern span of the Mogollon culture is known as Aridoamerica.

 

The Mogollon culture was one of the major prehistoric Southwestern cultural divisions of the Southwestern United States and Northern Mexico. The culture flourished from c. 200 CE, to c. 1450 CE or 1540 CE, when the Spanish arrived.

 

The Sinagua culture was a Pre-Columbian culture that occupied a large area in central Arizona from the Little Colorado River, near Flagstaff, to the Verde River, near Sedona, including the Verde Valley, area around San Francisco Mountain, and significant portions of the Mogollon Rim country, between approximately 500 CE and 1425 CE. Besides ceremonial kivas, their pueblos had large "community rooms" and some featured ballcourts and walled courtyards, similar to those of the Hohokam culture. Since fully developed Sinagua sites emerged in central Arizona around 500 CE, it is believed they migrated from east-central Arizona, possibly emerging from the Mogollon culture.

 

The history of Arizona as recorded by Europeans began in 1539 with the first documented exploration of the area by Marcos de Niza, early work expanded the following year when Francisco Vásquez de Coronado entered the area as well.

 

The Spanish established a few missions in southern Arizona in the 1680s by Father Eusebio Francisco Kino along the Santa Cruz River, in what was then the Pimería Alta region of Sonora. The Spanish also established presidios in Tubac and Tucson in 1752 and 1775. The area north of the Gila River was governed by the Province of Las California under the Spanish until 1804, when the Californian portion of Arizona became part of Alta California under the Spanish and Mexican governments.

 

In 1849, the California Gold Rush led as many as 50,000 miners to travel across the region, leading to a boom in Arizona's population. In 1850, Arizona and New Mexico formed the New Mexico Territory.

 

In 1853, President Franklin Pierce sent James Gadsden to Mexico City to negotiate with Santa Anna, and the United States bought the remaining southern strip area of Arizona and New Mexico in the Gadsden Purchase. A treaty was signed in Mexico in December 1853, and then, with modifications, approved by the US Senate in June 1854, setting the southern boundary of Arizona and of New Mexico.

 

Before 1846 the Apache raiders expelled most Mexican ranchers. One result was that large herds of wild cattle roamed southeastern Arizona. By 1850, the herds were gone, killed by Apaches, American sportsmen, contract hunting for the towns of Fronteras and Santa Cruz, and roundups to sell to hungry Mexican War soldiers, and forty-niners en route to California.

 

During the Civil War, on March 16, 1861, citizens in southern New Mexico Territory around Mesilla (now in New Mexico) and Tucson invited take-over by the Confederacy. They especially wanted restoration of mail service. These secessionists hoped that a Confederate Territory of Arizona (CSA) would take control, but in March 1862, Union troops from California captured the Confederate Territory of Arizona and returned it to the New Mexico Territory.

 

The Battle of Picacho Pass, April 15, 1862, was a battle of the Civil War fought in the CSA and one of many battles to occur in Arizona during the war among three sides—Apaches, Confederates and Union forces. In 1863, the U.S. split up New Mexico along a north–south line to create the Arizona Territory. The first government officials to arrive established the territory capital in Prescott in 1864. The capital was later moved to Tucson, back to Prescott, and then to its final location in Phoenix in a series of controversial moves as different regions of the territory gained and lost political influence with the growth and development of the territory.

 

In the late 19th century the Army built a series of forts to encourage the Natives to stay in their territory and to act as a buffer from the settlers. The first was Fort Defiance. It was established on September 18, 1851, by Col. Edwin V. Sumner to create a military presence in Diné bikéyah (Navajo territory). Sumner broke up the fort at Santa Fe for this purpose, creating the first military post in what is now Arizona. He left Major Electus Backus in charge. Small skirmishes were common between raiding Navajo and counter raiding citizens. In April 1860 one thousand Navajo warriors under Manuelito attacked the fort and were beaten off.

 

The fort was abandoned at the start of the Civil War but was reoccupied in 1863 by Colonel Kit Carson and the 1st New Mexico Infantry. Carson was tasked by Brigadier-General James H. Carleton, Commander of the Federal District of New Mexico, to kill Navajo men, destroy crops, wells, houses and livestock. These tactics forced 9000 Navajos to take the Long Walk to a reservation at Bosque Redondo, New Mexico. The Bosque was a complete failure. In 1868 the Navajo signed another treaty and were allowed to go back to part of their former territory. The returning Navajo were restocked with sheep and other livestock. Fort Defiance was the agency for the new Navajo reservation until 1936; today it provides medical services to the region.

 

Fort Apache was built on the Fort Apache Indian Reservation by soldiers from the 1st Cavalry and 21st Infantry in 1870. Only one small battle took place, in September 1881, with three soldiers wounded. When the reservation Indians were granted U.S. citizenship in 1924, the fort was permanently closed down. Fort Huachuca, east of Tucson, was founded in 1877 as the base for operations against Apaches and raiders from Mexico. From 1913 to 1933 the fort was the base for the "Buffalo Soldiers" of the 10th Cavalry Regiment. During World War II, the fort expanded to 25,000 soldiers, mostly in segregated all-black units. Today the fort remains in operation and houses the U.S. Army Intelligence Center and the U.S. Army Network.

 

The Pueblos in Arizona were relatively peaceful through the Navajo and Apache Wars. However, in June 1891, the army had to bring in troops to stop Oraibi from preventing a school from being built on their mesa.

 

After the Civil War, Texans brought large-scale ranching to southern Arizona. They introduced their proven range methods to the new grass country. Texas rustlers also came, and brought lawlessness. Inexperienced ranchers brought poor management, resulting in overstocking, and introduced destructive diseases. Local cattleman organizations were formed to handle these problems. The Territory experienced a cattle boom in 1873–91, as the herds were expanded from 40,000 to 1.5 million head. However, the drought of 1891–93 killed off over half the cattle and produced severe overgrazing. Efforts to restore the rangeland between 1905 and 1934 had limited success, but ranching continued on a smaller scale.

 

Arizona's last major drought occurred during Dust Bowl years of 1933–34. This time Washington stepped in as the Agricultural Adjustment Administration spent $100 million to buy up the starving cattle. The Taylor Grazing Act placed federal and state agencies in control of livestock numbers on public lands. Most of the land in Arizona is owned by the federal government which leased grazing land to ranchers at low cost. Ranchers invested heavily in blooded stock and equipment. James Wilson states that after 1950, higher fees and restrictions in the name of land conservation caused a sizable reduction in available grazing land. The ranchers had installed three-fifths of the fences, dikes, diversion dams, cattleguards, and other improvements, but the new rules reduced the value of that investment. In the end, Wilson believes, sportsmen and environmentalists maintained a political advantage by denouncing the ranchers as political corrupted land-grabbers who exploited the publicly owned natural resources.

 

On February 23, 1883, United Verde Copper Company was incorporated under New York law. The small mining camp next to the mine was given a proper name, 'Jerome.' The town was named after the family which had invested a large amount of capital. In 1885 Lewis Williams opened a copper smelter in Bisbee and the copper boom began, as the nation turned to copper wires for electricity. The arrival of railroads in the 1880s made mining even more profitable, and national corporations bought control of the mines and invested in new equipment. Mining operations flourished in numerous boom towns, such as Bisbee, Jerome, Douglas, Ajo and Miami.

 

Arizona's "wild west" reputation was well deserved. Tombstone was a notorious mining town that flourished longer than most, from 1877 to 1929. Silver was discovered in 1877, and by 1881 the town had a population of over 10,000. Western story tellers and Hollywood film makers made as much money in Tombstone as anyone, thanks to the arrival of Wyatt Earp and his brothers in 1879. They bought shares in the Vizina mine, water rights, and gambling concessions, but Virgil, Morgan and Wyatt were soon appointed as federal and local marshals. They killed three outlaws in the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, the most famous gunfight of the Old West.

 

In the aftermath, Virgil Earp was maimed in an ambush and Morgan Earp was assassinated while playing billiards. Walter Noble Burns's novel Tombstone (1927) made Earp famous. Hollywood celebrated Earp's Tombstone days with John Ford's My Darling Clementine (1946), John Sturges's Gunfight at the O.K. Corral (1957) and Hour of the Gun (1967), Frank Perry's Doc (1971), George Cosmatos's Tombstone (1993), and Lawrence Kasdan's Wyatt Earp (1994). They solidified Earp's modern reputation as the Old West's deadliest gunman.

 

Jennie Bauters (1862–1905) operated brothels in the Territory from 1896 to 1905. She was an astute businesswoman with an eye for real estate appreciation, and a way with the town fathers of Jerome regarding taxes and restrictive ordinances. She was not always sitting pretty; her brothels were burned in a series of major fires that swept the business district; her girls were often drug addicts. As respectability closed in on her, in 1903 she relocated to the mining camp of Acme. In 1905, she was murdered by a man who had posed as her husband.

 

By 1869 Americans were reading John Wesley Powell's reports of his explorations of the Colorado River. In 1901, the Santa Fe Railroad reached Grand Canyon's South Rim. With railroad, restaurant and hotel entrepreneur Fred Harvey leading the way, large-scale tourism began that has never abated. The Grand Canyon has become an iconic symbol of the West and the nation as a whole.

 

The Chinese came to Arizona with the construction of the Southern Pacific Railroad in 1880. Tucson was the main railroad center and soon had a Chinatown with laundries for the general population and a rich mix of restaurants, groceries, and services for the residents. Chinese and Mexican merchants and farmers transcended racial differences to form 'guanxi,' which were relations of friendship and trust. Chinese leased land from Mexicans, operated grocery stores, and aided compatriots attempting to enter the United States from Mexico after the Mexican Revolution in 1910. Chinese merchants helped supply General John Pershing's army in its expedition against Pancho Villa. Successful Chinese in Tucson led a viable community based on social integration, friendship, and kinship.

 

In February 1903, U.S. Senator Hamilton Kean spoke against Arizona's statehood. He said Mormons who fled from Idaho to Mexico would return to the U.S. and mix in the politics of Arizona.

 

In 1912, Arizona almost entered the Union as part of New Mexico in a Republican plan to keep control of the U.S. Senate. The plan, while accepted by most in New Mexico, was rejected by most Arizonans. Progressives in Arizona favored inclusion in the state constitution of the initiative, referendum, recall, direct election of senators, woman suffrage, and other reforms. Most of these proposals were included in the constitution that was rejected by Congress.

 

A new constitution was offered with the problematic provisions removed. Congress then voted to approve statehood, and President Taft signed the statehood bill on February 14, 1912. State residents promptly put the provisions back in. Hispanics had little voice or power. Only one of the 53 delegates at the constitutional convention was Hispanic, and he refused to sign. In 1912 women gained suffrage in the state, eight years before the country as a whole.

 

Arizona's first Congressman was Carl Hayden (1877–1972). He was the son of a Yankee merchant who had moved to Tempe because he needed dry heat for his bad lungs. Carl attended Stanford University and moved up the political ladder as town councilman, county treasurer, and Maricopa County sheriff, where he nabbed Arizona's last train robbers. He also started building a coalition to develop the state's water resources, a lifelong interest. A liberal Democrat his entire career, Hayden was elected to Congress in 1912 and moved to the Senate in 1926.

 

Reelection followed every six years as he advanced toward the chairmanship of the powerful Appropriations Committee, which he reached in 1955. His only difficult campaign came in 1962, at age 85, when he defeated a young conservative. He retired in 1968 after a record 56 years in Congress. His great achievement was his 41-year battle to enact the Central Arizona Project that would provide water for future growth.

 

The Great Depression of 1929–39 hit Arizona hard. At first local, state and private relief efforts focused on charity, especially by the Community Chest and Organized Charities programs. Federal money started arriving with the Federal Emergency Relief Committee in 1930. Different agencies promoted aid to the unemployed, tuberculosis patients, transients, and illegal immigrants. The money ran out by 1931 or 1932, and conditions were bad until New Deal relief operations began on a large scale in 1933.

 

Construction programs were important, especially the Hoover Dam (originally called Boulder Dam), begun by President Herbert Hoover. It is a concrete arch-gravity dam in the Black Canyon of the Colorado River, on the border with Nevada. It was constructed by the Federal Bureau of Reclamation between 1931 and 1936. It operationalized a schedule of water use set by the Colorado River Compact of 1922 that gave Arizona 19% of the river's water, with 25% to Nevada and the rest to California.

 

Construction of military bases in Arizona was a national priority because of the state's excellent flying weather and clear skies, large amounts of unoccupied land, good railroads, cheap labor, low taxes, and its proximity to California's aviation industry. Arizona was attractive to both the military and private firms and they stayed after the war.

 

Fort Huachuca became one of the largest nearly-all-black Army forts, with quarters for 1,300 officers and 24,000 enlisted soldiers. The 92nd and 93rd Infantry Divisions, composed of African-American troops, trained there.

 

During the war, Mexican-American community organizations were very active in patriotic efforts to support American troops abroad, and made efforts to support the war effort materially and to provide moral support for the American servicemen fighting the war, especially the Mexican-American servicemen from local communities. Some of the community projects were cooperative ventures in which members of both the Mexican-American and Anglo communities participated. Most efforts made in the Mexican-American community represented localized American home front activities that were separate from the activities of the Anglo community.

 

Mexican-American women organized to assist their servicemen and the war effort. An underlying goal of the Spanish-American Mothers and Wives Association was the reinforcement of the woman's role in Spanish-Mexican culture. The organization raised thousands of dollars, wrote letters, and joined in numerous celebrations of their culture and their support for Mexican-American servicemen. Membership reached over 300 during the war and eventually ended its existence in 1976.

 

Heavy government spending during World War II revitalized the Arizona economy, which was still based on copper mining, citrus and cotton crops and cattle ranching, with a growing tourist business.

 

Military installations peppered the state, such as Davis-Monthan Field in Tucson, the main training center for air force bomber pilots. Two relocation camps opened for Japanese and Japanese Americans brought in from the West Coast.

 

After World War II the population grew rapidly, increasing sevenfold between 1950 and 2000, from 700,000 to over 5 million. Most of the growth was in the Phoenix area, with Tucson a distant second. Urban growth doomed the state's citrus industry, as the groves were turned into housing developments.

 

The cost of water made growing cotton less profitable, and Arizona's production steadily declined. Manufacturing employment jumped from 49,000 in 1960 to 183,000 by 1985, with half the workers in well-paid positions. High-tech firms such as Motorola, Hughes Aircraft, Goodyear Aircraft, Honeywell, and IBM had offices in the Phoenix area. By 1959, Hughes Aircraft had built advanced missiles with 5,000 workers in Tucson.

 

Despite being a small state, Arizona produced several national leaders for both the Republican and Democratic parties. Two Republican Senators were presidential nominees: Barry Goldwater in 1964 and John McCain in 2008; both carried Arizona but lost the national election. Senator Ernest McFarland, a Democrat, was the Majority Leader of the U.S. Senate from 1951 to 1952, and Congressman John Rhodes was the Republican Minority Leader in the House from 1973 to 1981. Democrats Bruce Babbitt (Governor 1978–87) and Morris Udall (Congressman 1961–90) were contenders for their party's presidential nominations. In 1981 Sandra Day O'Connor became the first woman on the U.S. Supreme Court; she served until 2006.

 

Retirement communities

Warm winters and low cost of living attracted retirees from the so-called snowbelt, who moved permanently to Arizona after 1945, bringing their pensions, Social Security, and savings with them. Real estate entrepreneurs catered to them with new communities with amenities pitched to older people, and with few facilities for children. Typically they were gated communities with controlled access and had pools, recreation centers, and golf courses.

 

In 1954, two developers bought 320 acres (1.3 km2) of farmland near Phoenix and opened the nation's first planned community dedicated exclusively to retirees at Youngtown. In 1960, developer Del Webb, inspired by the amenities in Florida's trailer parks, added facilities for "active adults" in his new Sun City planned community near Phoenix. In 1962 Ross Cortese opened the first of his gated Leisure Worlds. Other developers copied the popular model, and by 2000 18% of the retirees in the state lived in such "lifestyle" communities.

 

The issues of the fragile natural environment, compounded by questions of water shortage and distribution, led to numerous debates. The debate crossed traditional lines, so that the leading conservative, Senator Barry Goldwater, was also keenly concerned. For example, Goldwater supported the controversial Colorado River Storage Project (CRSP). He wrote:

 

I feel very definitely that the [Nixon] administration is absolutely correct in cracking down on companies and corporations and municipalities that continue to pollute the nation's air and water. While I am a great believer in the free competitive enterprise system and all that it entails, I am an even stronger believer in the right of our people to live in a clean and pollution-free environment. To this end, it is my belief that when pollution is found, it should be halted at the source, even if this requires stringent government action against important segments of our national economy.

 

Water issues were central. Agriculture consumed 89% of the state's strictly limited water supply while generating only 3% of the state's income. The Groundwater Management Act of 1980, sponsored by Governor Bruce Babbitt, raised the price of water to farmers, while cities had to reach a "safe yield" so that the groundwater usage did not exceed natural replenishment. New housing developments had to prove they had enough water for the next hundred years. Desert foliage suitable for a dry region soon replaced grass.

 

Cotton acreage declined dramatically, freeing up land for suburban sprawl as well as releasing large amounts of water and ending the need for expensive specialized machinery. Cotton acreage plunged from 120,000 acres in 1997 to only 40,000 acres in 2005, even as the federal treasury gave the state's farmers over $678 million in cotton subsidies. Many farmers collect the subsidies but no longer grow cotton. About 80% of the state's cotton is exported to textile factories in China and (since the passage of NAFTA) to Mexico.

 

Super Bowl XXX was played in Tempe in 1996 and Super Bowl XLII was held in Glendale in 2008. Super Bowl XLIX was also held in Glendale in 2015.

 

Illegal immigration continued to be a prime concern within the state, and in April 2010, Arizona SB1070 was passed and signed into law by Governor Jan Brewer. The measure attracted national attention as the most thorough anti-illegal immigration measure in decades within the United States.

 

Congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords was shot in the head during a political event in Tucson on January 8, 2011. The shooting resulted in six deaths and several injuries. Giffords survived the attack and became an advocate for gun control.

 

On June 30, 2013, nineteen members of the Prescott Fire Department were killed fighting the Yarnell Hill Fire. The fatalities were members of the Granite Mountain Hotshots, a hotshot crew, of whom only one survived as he was working in another location.

 

Border crisis: by 2019 Arizona was one of the states most affected by the border crisis, with a high number of migrant crossings and detentions.

I was in the area, checking up on the Heath Spotted Orchids, and the church was a five minute drive away, in the grounds of a former country house.

 

I park at the church and find it locked, as expected, but there were directions to a keyholder nearby, walking into the cobbled squares and converted estate buildings now executive housing.

 

I ring the bell: nothing

 

I ring again: nothing

 

I use the knocker: dog barks. Dog attacks the door.

 

There is angry voices. Or voice. There was the sound of the dog being put into a side room, and the struggle to close the door.

 

The front door opened: yes?

 

Can I have the church key, please?

 

Not sure if I still have it.

 

Why'd you want it?

 

To photograph the interior.

 

Who're with?

 

I'm with no one, I am photographing all parish churches in the county, and would like to do this one. I showed him my driving licence which should say under job title: obsessive and church crawler.

 

He seemed satisfied, and let me have the key.

 

Phew.

 

Inside two things you notice; one is the box tomb, finely carved and still with traces of the original paint, and secondly, the organ is in pieces, and apparently the most complicated jigsaw you ever did see

 

------------------------------------------------

 

Substantially rebuilt after a fire of 1598. The welcoming interior displays no chancel arch, although the doorways in the arcade show where the medieval rood screen ran the width of the church. The striking east window was designed by Wallace Wood in 1954. There is a good aumbry and piscina nearby. To the north of the chancel stands the excellent tomb chest of Sir John Tufton (d. 1624). The arcade into which it is built was lowered to allow a semi-circular alabaster ceiling to be inserted to set the composition off. Because it is completely free-standing it is one of the easiest tomb chests in Kent to study, with five sons kneeling on the south side and four daughters on the north . In addition there are complicated coats of arms and an inscription which records the rebuilding of the church by Tufton after the fire. On top of the chest lie Sir John and his wife, with their son Nicholas kneeling between their heads. Much of the monument is still covered with its original paint. The organ, which stands in the south aisle, may be the instrument on which Sir Arthur Sullivan composed 'The Lost Chord'. It originally stood in Hothfield Place where Sullivan was a frequent guest.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Hothfield

 

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HOTHFIELD

IS the next parish northward from Great Chart, and is so called from the bothe, or heath within it. The greatest part of this parish lies within the hundred of Chart and Longbridge, and the remainder in that of Calehill. It is in the division of East Kent.

 

THE PARISH of Hothfield lies a little more than two miles from Ashford north-westward, the high road from which towards Lenham and Maidstone goes through it over Hothfield heath. It contains about 1250 acres, and fifty houses, the rents of it are about 1300l. per annum. It is not a pleasant, nor is it accounted a healthy situation, owing probably to the many low and watry lands in and about it. The river Stour, which rises at Lenham, runs along the southern side of the parish, which is watered likewise by several small streams, which rise about Charing and Westwell, from under the chalk hills, and join the Stour here. The heath, which contains near one half of the parish, consists mostly of a deep sand, and has much peat on it, which is continually dug by the poor for firing. On the east and west sides of the heath, the latter being called West-street, are two hamlets of houses, which form the scattered village of Hothfield. The Place-house stands on a hill, at a small distance from the corner of the heath southward, with some small plantations of trees about it, forming a principal object to the country round it. It is a square mansion, built of Portland stone, by the late earl of Thanet, on the scite of the antient mansion, close to the church; it has a good prospect round it. The adjoining grass grounds are extensive, and well laid out for the view over them; the water, which rises at no great distance from the house, becomes very soon a tolerable sized stream, and running on in sight of it, joins the Stour a little above Worting mill; these grass lands are fertile and good fatting land, like those mentioned before, near Godington, in Great Chart. The parsonage house, which is a neat dwelling of white stucco, stands at the southern corner of the heath, at the foot of the hill, adjoining the Place grounds, near West-street. Between the heath and Potter's corner, towards Ashford, the soil begins to approach much of the quarry stone.

 

Though the land in the parish is naturally poor, it is rendered productive by the chalk and lime procured from the down hills. The inhabitants have an unlimited right of commoning with those of the adjoining parish of Westwell, to upwards of five hundred acres of common, which affords them the means of keeping a cow and their poultry, which, with the liberty of digging peat, draws a number of certificated poor to reside here. There is not one dissenter in the parish.

 

Jack Cade, the noted rebel, in Henry the VI.th's reign, though generally supposed to be taken by Alexander Iden, esq. the sheriff, in a field belonging to Ripple manor, in the adjoining parish of Westwell, was discovered, as some say, in a field in this parish, still named from him, Jack Cade's field, now laid open with the rest of the grounds adjoining to Hothfieldplace.

 

The plant caryophyllata montena, or water avens, which is a very uncommon one, grows in a wood near Barber's hill, in this parish.

 

THE MANOR OF HOTHFIELD seems, in very early times, to have had the same owners as the barony of Chilham, and to have continued so, for a considerable length of time after the descendants of Fulbert de Dover were become extinct here. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, who in the 5th year of king Edward II. had a grant of this manor as well as of Chilham in see, appears to have held this manor of Hothfield by grand sergeantry of the archbishop, and accordingly, in the 8th year of it, at the enthroning of archbishop Walter Reynolds, he made his claim, and was allowed to perform the office of chamberlain for that day, and to serve up the water, for the archbishop to wash his hands; for which his fees were, the furniture of his bedchamber, and the bason and towel made use of for that purpose; (fn. 1) and in the next year he obtained of the king, a charter of free-warren for his demesne lands within this manor among others. After this the manor of Hothfield continued to be held by the like service, and continued in the same owners as that of Chilham, (fn. 2) down to Thomas lord Roos, who became entitled to the see of it, who for his attachment to the house of Lancaster, was, with others, attainted, in the 1st year of king Edward IV.'s reign, and his lands confiscated to the crown. But Margaret his mother, being possessed of it for her life, afterwards married Roger Wentworth, esq. whom she survived, and died possessed of it in the 18th year of that reign; upon which, by reason of the above attaint, the crown became entitled to it, the inquisition for which was found in the 4th year of that reign; immediately after which, the king granted it to Sir John Fogge, of Repton, who was comptroller of his household and one of his privy council, for his life. On king Richard III.'s accession to the crown, he took shelter in the abbey of Westminster, from whence he was invited by the king, who in the presence of a numerous assembly gave him his hand, and bid him be confident that from thenceforward he was sure to him in affection. This is rather mentioned, as divers chronicles have erroneously mentioned that he was an attorney, whom this prince had pardoned for forgery. He died possessed of it in the 17th year of Henry VII. where it remained till Henry VIII. granted it, at the very latter end of his reign, to John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, in Sussex, whose lands were disgavelled by the acts of 2 and 3 Edward VI. who afterwards resided at Hothfield, where he kept his shrievalty in the 3d year of queen Elizabeth. He was descended from ancestors who were originally written Toketon, and held lands in Rainham, in this county, as early as king John's reign; (fn. 3) one of whom was seated at Northiam, in Sussex, in king Richard the IId.'s reign, at which time they were written as at present, Tufton, and they continued there till John Tufton, esq. of Northiam, before-mentioned, removed hither. He died in 1567, and was buried in this church, leaving one son John Tufton, who resided at Hothfield-place, and in July, in the 16th year of queen Elizabeth, anno 1573, entertained the queen here, in her progress through this county. In the 17th year of that reign he was sheriff, and being a person of eminent repure and abilities, he was knighted by king James, in his 1st year, and created a baronet at the first institution of that order, on June 19, 1611. He married Olimpia, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. of Sileham, in Rainham, by whom he had three daughters; and secondly Christian, daughter and coheir of Sir Humphry Brown, a justice of the common pleas. He died in 1624, and was buried in this church, having had by her several sons and daughters. Of the former, Nicholas the eldest, succeeded him in title and estates. Sir Humphry was of Bobbing and the Mote, in Maidstone, and Sir William was of Vinters, in Boxley, both baronets, of whom further mention has already been made in the former parts of this history.

 

Sir Nicholas Tufton, the eldest son, was by letters patent, dated Nov. 1, anno 2 Charles I. created lord Tufton, baron of Tufton, in Sussex; and on August 5, in the 4th year of that reign, earl of the Isle of Thanet, in this county. He had four sons and nine daughters; of the former, John succeeded him in honors, and Cecil, was father of Sir Charles Tufton, of Twickenham, in Middlesex. John, the eldest son, second earl of Thanet, married in 1629 Margaret, eldest daughter and coheir of Richard, earl of Dorset, by his wife the lady Anne Clifford, sole daughter and heir of George, earl of Cumberland, and baroness of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy, by which marriage these tithes descended afterwards to their issue. In the time of the commonwealth, after king Charles the 1st.'s death, he was, in 1654, appointed sheriff, and however inconsistent it might be to his rank, yet he served the office. He left six sons and six daughters, and was succeeded by Nicholas his eldest son, third earl of Thanet, who by the deaths of his mother in 1676, and of his cousin-german Alethea, then wife of Edward Hungerford, esq. who died s. p. in 1678, he became heir to her, and sole heir to his grandmother Anne, lady Clifford, and consequently to the baronies of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vescy; dying s. p. he was succeeded as earl of Thanet and lord Clifford, &c. by his next brother John, who, on his mother's death, succeeded likewise by her will to her large estates in Yorkshire and Westmoreland, and to the hereditary in sheriffdoms of the latter and of Cumberland likewise, for it frequently happened in these hereditary sheriffdoms that female heirs became possessed of them, and consequently were sheriffs of those districts; but this was not at all an unusual thing, there being many frequent instances of women bearing that office, as may be seen in most of the books in which any mention is made of it, some instances of which the reader may see in the differtation on the office of sheriff, in vol. i. of this history. That part of their office which was incompatible for a woman to exercise, was always executed by a deputy, or shyre-clerk, in their name. But among the Harleian MSS. is a very remarkable note taken from Mr. Attorney-general Noys reading in Lincoln's inn, in 1632, in which, upon a point, whether the office of a justice of a forest might be executed by a woman; it was said, that Margaret, countess of Richmond, mother to king Henry VII. was a justice of peace; that the lady Bartlet, perhaps meant for Berkley, was also made a justice of the peace by queen Mary, in Gloucestershire; and that in Suffolk one ..... Rowse, a woman, did usually fit upon the bench at assizes and sessions among other justices, gladio cincta. John, earl of Thanet, died unmarried, as did his next brother earl Richard, so that the titles devolved to Thomas Tufton, who became the sixth earl of Thanet, and lord Clifford, which latter title was decreed to him by the house of peers in 1691. He left surviving issue five daughters and coheirs, the eldest of whom, Catherine, married Ed. Watson, viscount Sondes, son and heir of Lewis, earl of Rockingham; and the four others married likewise into noble families. He died at Hothfield in 1729, having by his will bequeathed several legacies to charitable purposes, especially towards the augmentation of small vicarages and curacies. He died without male issue, so that the titles of earl of Thanet and baron Tufton, and of baronet, descended to his nephew Sackville Tufton, eldest surviving son of his brother Sackville Tufton, fifth son of John, second earl of Thanet. But the title of baroness Clifford, which included those of Westmoreland and Vescy, upon the death of Thomas, earl of Thanet, without male issue, became in abeyance between his daughters and coheirs above-mentioned, and in 1734, king George II. confirmed that barony to Margaret, his third surviving daughter and coheir, married to Thomas Coke, lord Lovel, afterwards created earl of Leicester, which title is now again in abeyance by his death s. p. Which Sackville Tufton died in 1721, leaving Sackville the seventh earl of Thanet, whose eldest son of the same name succeeded him as eighth earl of Thanet, and rebuilt the present mansion of Hothfield-place, in which he afterwards resided, but being obliged to travel to Italy for his health, he died there at Nice in 1786, and was brought to England, and buried in the family vault at Rainham, in this county, where his several ancestors, earls of Thanet, with their countesses, and other branches of the family, lie deposited, from the time of their first accession to that title. He married Mary, daughter of lord John Philip Sackville, sister of the present duke of Dorset, by whom he had five sons and two daughters, Elizabeth; and Caroline married to Joseph Foster Barham, esq. Of the former, Sackville, born in 1769, succeeded him in honors; Charles died unmarried; John is M. P. for Appleby; Henry is M. P. for Rochester, and William. He was succeeded by his eldest son, the present right hon. Sackville Tufton, earl of Thanet, baron Tufton, lord of the honor of Skipton, in Craven, and baronet, and hereditary sheriff of the counties of Westmoreland and Cumberland, who is the present possessor of this manor and seat, and resides here, and is at present unmarried. (fn. 4)

 

The antient arms of Tufton were, Argent, on a pale, sable, an eagle displayed of the field; which coat they continued to bear till Nicholas Tufton, the first earl of Thanet, on his obtaining that earldom, altered it to that of Sable, an eagle displayed, ermine, within a bordure, argent; which coat was confirmed by Sir William Segar, garter, in 1628, and has been borne by his descendants to the present time. The present earl of Thanet bears for his coat of arms that last-mentioned; for his crest, On a wreath, a sea lion, seiant, proper; and for his supporters, Two eagles, their wings expanded, ermine.

 

SWINFORT, or Swinford, which is its more proper name, is a manor in this parish, lying in the southern part of it, near the river Stour, and probably took its name from some ford in former times over it here. However that be, it had formerly proprietors, who took their name from it; but they were never of any eminence, nor can I discover when they became extinct here; only that in king Henry V.'s reign it was in the possession of Bridges, descended from John atte Bregg, one of those eminent persons, whose effigies, kneeling and habited in armour, was painted in the window often mentioned before, in Great Chart church; and in this family the manor of Swinford continued till the latter end of king James I.'s reign, when it passed by sale from one of them to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, whose son John, earl of Thanet, before the 20th year of that reign, exchanged it for other lands, which lay more convenient to him, with his near neighbour Nicholas Toke, esq. of Godinton, in which family and name it has continued down, in like manner as that feat, to Nicholas Roundell Toke, esq. now of Godinton, the present possessor of it. A court baron is held for this manor.

 

FAUSLEY, or FOUSLEY, as it is now usually called, is the last manor to be described in this parish; its more antient name was Foughleslee, or, as it was usually pronounced, Faulesley; which name it gave to owners who in early times possessed and resided at it. John de Foughleslee, of Hothfield, was owner of it in the second year of king Richard II. and in his descendants this manor seems to have continued till about the beginning of queen Elizabeth's reign, when it passed by sale to Drury; from which name, at the latter end of it, this manor was conveyed to Paris, who immediately afterwards alienated it to Bull, who soon afterwards reconveyed it back again to the same family, whence, in the next reign of king James I. it was sold to Sir Nicholas Tufton, afterwards created earl of Thanet, in whose successors, earls of Thanet, it has continued down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, the present owner of it.

 

Charities.

 

RICHARD PARIS, by deed in 1577, gave for the use of the poor, a rent charge of 16s. per annum, out of land called Hanvilles, in this parish; the trustees of which have been long ago deceased, and no new ones appointed since.

 

THOMAS KIPPS, gent. of Canterbury, by will in 1680, gave for the use of the same, an annual rent charge of 1l. out of lards in Great Chart.

 

RICHARD MADOCKE, clothier, of this parish, by will in 1596, ordered that the 11l. which he had lent to the parishioners of Hothfield, towards the rebuilding of their church, should, when repaid, be as a stock to the poor of this parish for ever.

 

SIR JOHN TUFTON, knight and baronet, and Nicholas his son, first earl of Thanet, by their wills in 1620 and in 1630, gave certain sums of money, with which were purchased eight acres of land in the parish of Kingsnoth, of the annual produce of 10l.

 

DR. JOHN GRANDORGE, by deed in 1713, gave a house and land in Newington, near Hythe, of the annual produce of 7l. which premises are vested in the earl of Thanet.

 

THOMAS, EARL OF THANET, and SACKVILLE TUFTON. Esq. grandfather of the present earl, by their deeds in 1720 and 1726, gave for a school mistress to teach 24 poor children, a rent charge and a house and two gardens, in Hothfield, the produce in money 20l. The premises were vested in Sir Penyston Lambe and Dr. John Grandorge, long since deceased; since which the trust has not been renewed; and the original writings are in the earl of Thanet's possession.

 

Such of the above benefactions as have been contributed by the Tufton family, have been ordered by their descendants to be distributed annually by the steward of Hothfield-place for the time being, without the interference of the parish officers, to such as received no relief from this parish; the family looking upon these rather as a private munisicence intended to continue under their direction.

 

The poor annually relieved are about twenty-five, casually as many.

 

HOTHFIELD is situated within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Charing.

 

¶The church, which is small, is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of three isles and a chancel, having a low spire steeple, covered with shingles at the west end, in which are five bells, and though it stands on a hill, is yet very damp. There is not any painted glass in the windows of it. On the north side in it, is a monument of curious workmanship, having the figures of a man and woman, in full proportion, lying at length on it; at three corners of it are those of two sons and one daughter, kneeling, weeping, all in white marble; round the edges is an inscription, for Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, and Olympia his wife, daughter and heir of Christopher Blower, esq. On the monument are the arms of Tufton, with quarterings and impalements; on the sides are two inscriptions, one, that he re-edified this church after it was burnt, at his own charge, and under it made a vault for himself and his posterity, and after that he had lived eighty years, departed this life; the other enumerating his good qualities, and saying that by his will he gave perpetual legacies to this parish and that of Rainham. This monument is parted off from the north isle by a strong partition of wooden balustrades, seven feet high. The vault underneath is at most times several feet deep with water, and the few coffins which were remaining in it were some years since removed to the vaults at Rainham, where this family have been deposited ever since. On the north side of the chancel is a smaller one, formerly called St. Margaret's chapel, now shut up, and made no use of. In the south isle is a memorial for Rebecca, wife of William Henman, esq. obt. 1739, and Anna-Rebecca, their daughter, obt. 1752; arms, A lion, between three mascles, impaling a bend, cotized, engrailed. This church, which is a rectory, was always esteemed an appendage to the manor, and has passed accordingly, in like manner with it, down to the right hon. Sackville, earl of Thanet, lord of the manor of Hothfield, the present patron of it.

 

This rectory is valued in the king's books at 17l. 5s. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 14s. 6d.

 

There was a pension of ten shillings paid from it to the college of Wye. In 1588 here were communicants one hundred and ninety-three, and it was valued at eighty pounds. In 1640, communicants one hundred and ninety, and valued at only sixty pounds per annum. There is a modus of two pence an acre of the pasture lands in the parish. There are twelve acres of glebe. It is now worth about one hundred and twenty pounds per annum.

 

Richard Hall, of this parish, by will in 1524, ordered that his feoffees should enfeoffe certain honest persons in his house and garden here, set beside the pelery, to the intent that the yearly serme of them should go to the maintenance of the rode-light within the church.

 

This church was burnt down in the reign of king James I. and was rebuilt at the sole expence of Sir John Tufton, knight and baronet, who died in 1624. His descendant Thomas, earl of Thanet, who died in 1729, gave the present altar-piece, some of the pewing, and the pulpit.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp514-526

All information is provided in good faith but, on occasions errors may occur. Should this be the case, if new information can be verified please supply it to the author and corrections will then be made.

 

This memorial has been compiled with additional information by kind permission of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, and from Ancestry.co.uk.

 

War Memorial Chapel Leeds Minster Church

WAR MEMORIAL. 1914 - 1918

ACKROYD Matthew. Private 315644, 26th Northumberland Fusiliers died 14th October 1918 aged 43. Husband of Hannah Ackroyd, of 3, Holdsworth Square, Mill Street, Leeds. Commemorated on the Ploegsteert Memorial, Belgium.

ALLEN Fred. Private 1594, 1/8th West Yorkshire Regiment died 21st September 1916 aged 22. Son of Alfred and Alice Allen, of Leeds. At rest in Etaples Military Cemetery, France

BALDWIN Harry, Private 105144 5th Canadian Infantry, killed in action 10th September 1916 aged 19. Born on the 10th October 1896 of Albert and Sarah Ann Baldwin, of 28, Conway Mount, Harehills, Leeds, occupation, Farmer. He joined up in Canada on the 8th November 1915. After he completed his training he embarked from Halifax on S.S. Olympic (White Star Liner, chartered by the Canadian Government to transport troops from Halifax, Nova Scotia to Britain) on the 1st May 1916, disembarked at Liverpool 7th May 1916. Embarked from England to France on the 28th June 1916 to joined the 5th Battalion. He was taken on strength in the field on the 29th June 1916.

BARKER Frank. Rifleman 7756, 2nd Kings Royal Rifle Corps killed in action 17th September 1914. Born and enlisted in Leeds. In 1911 he was living with his parents Peter and Cordelia Theophilla at 51 Bayswater Street, Leeds. At rest in Vendresse British Cemetery, France

BATTY Fred. Private 268430, 1/6th West Riding Regiment died 12th April 1918 aged 20. Son of Rockley and Hannah Batty, of Leeds; husband of Ann Eliza Batty, of 23, Sydenham Place, Domestic Street, Leeds. At rest in Aire Communal Cemetery, France.

BICKERSTAFF Stanley Morris. Lieutenant, Commanding B Company, 15th West Yorkshire Regiment died 1st July 1916 aged 25. Son of The Rev. Samuel Bickersteth, D.D., Vicar of Leeds (afterwards Canon of Canterbury), Chaplain to the King, and of Ella, his wife, daughter of Sir Monier Monier-Williams, K.C.I.E. Educated at Rugby and Christ Church, Oxford. Joined his regiment in Sept., 1914, serving first in Egypt. At rest in Queens Cemetery, Puisieux, France.

BROUGH Gilbert Charles. Lance Corporal 17683, 1st West Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 7th August 1916 aged 22. He was the son of Charles and Annie of (1911) 11 Broomfield Terrace, Headingley, Leeds. And of 102 Harberton Road, Upper Holloway, London. Commemorated on the Thiepval Memorial, Somme, France.

BROWN Thomas. Private 10074, 1st West Yorkshire Regiment died 25th September 1914 aged 20. Brother of John Brown, of 16 Lower Cross Street, Bank, Leeds, Yorkshire. At rest in Montcornet Military Cemetery,

France.

BURNLEY Herbert. Private 15/160, B Company, 15th West Yorkshire Regiment died 1st July 1916 aged 27. Son of Walter and Fanny Burnley, of Sisters Villas, Garforth, Leeds. At rest in Euston Road Cemetery, Colincamps, Somme, France.

BURWELL R No Burwell listed with the following link. www.everymanremembered.org/ Not listed with the CWGC. It may be the following. DUNWELL Richard. Sergeant 14469, 12th West Yorkshire Regiment died 27th September 1915 aged 27. Son of Richard Dunwell, of 32, Albany Rd., Bilton, Harrogate. Commemorated on the Loos Memorial, France.

CLYNES John. Private 25448, 9th Yorkshire Regiment died 21st March 1918 aged 21. Son of John and Mary Alice Clynes, of 58, Richmond Rd. East, Leeds, Yorks. At rest in Canada Farm Cemetery, Belgium. (Memorial has 9th W.Y.R).

CRAVEN T (No T Craven listed with the CWGC serving with the W.Y.R). It may be the following. CRAVEN Thomas Henry Watson. Private 7754, 2nd Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 30th October 1914 aged 28. Born and enlisted Leeds. Son of Thomas Henry and Margaret Craven, of 11, Martha St., Salford, Manchester; husband of Rose Hettie Utley (formerly Craven), of 54, Canning St., Hunslet, Leeds. Commemorated on the Menin Gate Memorial, Ypres, Belgium.

CRESWICK William. (Military Medal) Sergeant 776830, C Battery, 245th Brigade, Royal Field Artillery died of wounds 8th March 1918 aged 26. Son of Ann and the late Bartholomew Creswick, of Leeds. At rest in Wimereux Communal Cemetery, France.

CULLINGWORTH John. Private 68393, A Company. posted to 2nd Bn. London Regiment (Royal Fusiliers) died 26th October 1917 aged 19. Son of Leonard Cullingworth, of 3, Westlock Terrace, Leeds. Commemorated on the Tyne Cot Memorial, Belgium.

DAVY Albert. Private 140574, 8th Machine Gun Corps, formerly Private 3376 7th West Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 27th May 1918. Born and enlisted in Leeds. Son of Jane Davy, of 2, Temple View Terrace, Pontefract Lane, Leeds, and the late William Huby Davy. (Wills and Admin, Ancestry. He lived at Stanley House, Lavender Walk, Leeds and died in France. His effects went to Edith Weare, wife of Thomas William Weare. Commemorated on the Soissons Memorial, France.

DAWSON Robert. Gunner 165580, A Battery, 62 Brigade, Royal Field Artillery died 30th April 1917 aged 26.

Son of W. and M. E. Dawson; husband of Annie Dawson, of 33, Salisbury Grove, Armley, Leeds. At rest in Bunyans Cemetery, Tilloy-Les-Mofflaines, France.

DRURY Arthur. Private 41529, d Company, 14th King's Liverpool Regiment died 4th May 1917 aged 42.

Son of Samuel and Emma Drury, of 251, York Road, Leeds. At rest in Karasouli Military Cemetery, Greece.

DWYER James. Lance Corporal 18835, 9th Royal Fusiliers died 30th November 1917. Brother of Harry Dwyer, of 11, Cotton Street, Mill Street, Leeds. Commemorated on the Cambrai Memorial, Louverval, France.

FERNEY Charles. Driver 4779, 12th Divisional Signals Company, Royal Engineers died 6th March 1917 aged 28. Son of Thomas and Venus Ferney, of 4, Great Garden Street, Burmantofts, Leeds. At rest in Faubourg D'Amiens Cemetery, Arras, France.

FLEMING Samuel George. Private 47362, 22nd Northumberland Fusiliers, Tyneside Scottish, formerly Private 29102, West Yorkshire Regiment died of wounds 10th April 1917 aged 17. Born and enlisted in Leeds. Eldest son of Robert 2nd Nellie Fleming, of 25, Nippett Mount, Burmantofts, Leeds. Native of Burmantofts. At rest in Etaples Military Cemetery, France.

FLETCHER George Alexander. Private 2273 Northumberland Fusiliers. Died of wounds 7th May 1915 aged 22. he was born in Pathead Fife, Alnwick, Northumberland. Son of Mrs. G. Fletcher, of Abbey Vale, Gattonside, Melrose, Roxburghshire. The memorial has G and this is the only soldier serving with Northumberland Fusiliers with initial G.

FOXCROFT John (Memorial has FOXTROT) Private 15/349,15th West Yorkshire Regiment died 1st July 1916. At rest in Serre Road Cemetery, No2, Somme, France.

GELDER James. Company Sergeant Major 13013, 10th West Yorkshire Regiment died 1st July 1916 aged 26. Son of James and Elizabeth Gelder, of Leeds; husband of Ann Gelder, of 14, Lincoln Mount, Beckett Street, Leeds. At rest in Fricourt New Military Cemetery, Somme, France.

GOULDEN John Robert. Private DM2/097226, 960th Company, Army Service Corps died 9th December 1917 aged 46. Born in Leeds lived in Brighton, enlisted in Leeds. Son of John Robert and Emily Goulden, of Leeds, husband of Elizabeth Mary Goulden, (nee Ransom) of 53, Vere Road, Brighton. His son was called Harry . His widow was granted a way gratuity on the 13th July 1918 revised on the 25th November 1919, this date his son Harry was granted a war gratuity. At rest in Port Said War Memorial Cemetery, Egypt.

HALEY Arthur Lee. Company Quartermaster Sergeant T4/210417, Clearing Office, Army Service Corps died 9th April 1918 at Manchester Royal Infirmary. In 1911 he was living with his parents Jack and Kate at 28 Norwood Place, Leeds, occupation Municipal accounts clerk. He was married on the 2nd June 1915 at St Michael Church, Headingley, Yorkshire to Olive Mary Vince. He was aged 29, corporal, Army Service Corps. Home address, 28 Norwood Place, father was called Jack. Olive was aged 28, spinster, lived at 10 Rochester Terrace, Headingley, father called Harry. At rest in Lawnswood Cemetery, Leeds, Yorkshire.

HALL George Henry. Corporal 18305,1st West Yorkshire Regiment died 6th July 1917 aged 38. Son of George Henry and Hannah Hall, of Leeds. At rest in Maroc British Cemetery, Grenay, France.

HUNTER John Henry. Private 15/488, 15th West Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 1ts July 1916. Born on the 2nd November 1889,baptised 29th December 1888 at St Peter's Leeds, son of Ann and brother to Ethel Wright Hunter and Annie Hemsworth who were all granted a war gratuity. His mother on the 5th October 1916, sisters on the 26th November 1919, his is father was called Thomas. In 1911 he widowed mother was living at 7 Nowell Grover, Harehills, Leeds with his two sisters. When he was baptised he was living at Beckett Street, Leeds. In 1911 he may have been a boarder at the home of John and Edith Atkin of 17 Lawrence Street, York, working as a clerk. He is named as John Hunter, born Leeds. Commemorated on the Thiepval Memorial, Somme, France.

JACKSON Arthur. Private 106611,10th Notts and Derby Regiment (Sherwood Foresters) died of wounds 19th September 1918 aged 19 at No 44 Casualty Clearing Station, France. Son of Joseph George Edesin and Annie Jackson, of 98, Stratford Street, Beeston, Leeds. His mother was granted a war gratuity on the 19th December 1918, revised on the 6th December 1919. At rest in Thilloy Road Cemetery, Beaulencourt, France.

JENNINS Harry. 2nd Lieutenant, 10th South Staffordshire Regiment died 12th November 1916 aged 26. Son of Henry Jennins, of Leeds; husband of Marie Jennins, of 9, Wavendon Avenue, Chiswick, London. The CWGC have 8th Battalion. At rest in Bancourt British Cemetery, France.

KAY T. It may be this person Driver 84661 Tom KAY, Royal Field Artillery died of wounds 7th July 1916. Born 31st July 1892 at Leeds to Charles and Maria of 24 New Church Place, Leeds. In 1911 he was living with his parents at 26 Mabgate, Leeds. At rest in Peronne Road Cemetery, Maricourt, Somme, France.

KENT Charles. Private 3/8694, 2nd West Yorkshire Regiment died 10th March 1915 aged 21. Son of William Henry and Catherine Helen Kent, of 3, Elton St., Lower Broughton, Salford, Manchester. Commemorated on the Le Touret Memorial, France

LAIRD George. Private 13/ 8622, 2nd West Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 31st October 1914 aged 18. Son of John Laird, of 46, Cranberry Street, York Road, Leeds, his mother was called Louisa. In 1911 he was living with his parents and siblings at 46 Cranberry Street. He was employed as a fish hawker. Commemorated on the Ploegsteert Memorial, Belgium.

LANDRETH Harold. Private 24633,1st West Yorkshire Regiment died 26th January 1917 aged 23. Son of Eliza Ann Lynch, of 38, Tyas Grove, Osmondthorpe, Leeds. At rest in Cambrin Churchyard Extension, France.

LEWIS Frederick Richard Private 15/587, B Company,15th West Yorkshire Regiment died of wounds 5th July 1916 aged 22. Son of Richard Henry and Alice Lewis, of 49, Woodview Road, Dewsbury Road, Leeds. His father was granted a war gratuity on the 16th January 1917 revised on the 25th September 1919. At rest in Holbeck Cemetery, Leeds.

LINGLEY Frank. Rifleman 266458, 2/7th West Yorkshire Regiment died 10th April 1917 aged 29. Son of John William and Alice Lingley, of 10, Weller View, Stoney Rock Lane, Leeds. His mother was granted a war gratuity on the 4th July 1917, revised on the 6th December 1919. Commemorated on the Arras Memorial, France.

LUMB Thomas Dension. Private 2011, A Squadron, Yorkshire Hussars Yeomanry died 25th May 1915 aged 22. Son of George Denison Lumb and Elizabeth Margaret Lumb, of 31, Lyddon Terrace, Leeds. Brother of Wilfred who also fell. Commemorated on the Menin Gate Memorial, Ypres, Belgium.

LUMB Wilfred Denison. Private 15/603, A Company, 15th West Yorkshire Regiment died 3rd July 1916 aged 26. Son of George Denison Lumb and Elizabeth Margaret Lumb, of 31, Lyddon Terrace, Leeds. Born at Headingley, Leeds. Brother of Thomas who also fell. At rest in Bertrancourt Military Cemetery, Somme, France

LYNCH Frederick William. Private 28283, 21st West Yorkshire Regiment died 21st March 1918 aged 28. Son of Frederick Lynch, of Leeds, husband of Edith Lynch, of 222, Harehills Avenue, Roundhay Road, Leeds. At rest in Duisans British Cemetery, Etrun, France

MARKINSON William Edward. Private 36044,11th Royal Fusiliers died 30th August 1918 aged 27. Son of John and Isabella Markinson, of Leeds; husband of Maria Markinson, of 19, Union Street, Vicar Lane, Leeds. At rest in Combles Communal Cemetery Extension, Somme, France.

MASSEY Robert. Private 8007, 1st West Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 20th September 1914. He was born in Leeds, occupation, cabinet maker and enlisted on the 5th October 1905. His wife Ethel was granted a war gratuity on the 5th February 1915, revised on the 16th September 1919. Commemorated on a memorial chair in Lady's Chapel, St Peter's Church, Leeds, also on the La Ferte-Sous-Jouarre Memorial, France.

MEESON Arthur. A former boy chorister of Leeds Parish Church (L.P.C.) who gave his life in the war 1914 - 1918.

Lance Corporal 15/633, 15th West Yorkshire Regiment died 1st July 1916 aged 23. Son of Walter Stainton Meeson, of Oban Villas, 89, Leopold St., Leeds, and the late Eliza Elizabeth Meeson. A clerk (Municipal Office Leeds.). At rest in Serre Road Cemetery No1, France.

MILLS Aubrey. Private T/241697, 1/ 5th Buffs. East Kent Regiment killed in action 11th February 1917 aged 27.Son of James and Annie Mills, of Leeds; husband of Matilda Jane Lilly (formerly Mills) of 6, South Rd., Kingsdown, Deal. His widow, Matilda Jane (nee Martin) was granted a war gratuity on the 23rd August 1917, revised on the 18th September 1919. At rest in Amara War Cemetery, Iraq.

MILLS Alfred. Lance Corporal 18313, 1/5th West Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 9th October 1917 aged 22. Son of James Mills, of 33, Granby Terrace, Headingly, Leeds. At rest in Tyne Cot Cemetery, Belgium.

MILNES Edmund. Able Seaman SS/1312, (RFR/PO/B/4099). H.M.S. Good Hope, Royal Navy died 1st November 1914 aged 26. Son of William and Harriet Eliza Milnes, of 46, Haymount Street, Newtown, Leeds. Commemorated on the Portsmouth Naval Memorial, Hampshire.

Some notes from his naval records. He enlisted on the 1st March 1906 at Portsmouth for a period between 5 and 7 years. He gave his date of birth as 14th February 1888, lived at Leeds, occupation, baker. His first ship was H.M.S.Victory I , then other ship his last being H.M.S. Victory I,1st March 1911. His period of engagement had expired. The next day he transferred into the Royal Fleet Reserve. First ship was H.M.S. Good Hope 13th July 1914 then H,M.S. Victory I from 25th July 1914 and lastly H.M.S. Good Hope on the 31st July 1914. He was killed when H.M.S. Good Hope was sunk in action of the Chilean Coast.

MILNES Jesse. Able Seaman 206965, (RFR/CH/B/5824). H.M.S. Hogue, died 22nd September 1914. Royal Navy Son of William and Harriet Eliza Milnes, of 46, Haymount Street, Newtown, Leeds, husband of Daisy Jenny Milnes, of 12, Moorehouse Terrace, Newtown, Leeds. Commemorated on the Chatham Naval Memorial, Kent.

Some notes from his Naval Records.

He enlisted 11th October 1900 aged 18 for a period of 12 years. He gave his date of birth as 11th October 1882, born in Leeds. His last ship in the Royal Navy was H.M.S. Dominion from the 10th June 1907 to 10th February 1908. He transferred to the Royal Fleet Reserve on the 8th May 1909 where he joined H.M.S. Hogue. He was drown in the North Sea when the ship was sunk by a German submarine.

MITCHELL C H It may be the following. 2nd Lieutenant Charles Henry MITCHELL. A Company, 1/6th West Yorkshire Regiment reported missing, presumed killed in action 3rd September 1916 aged 25. Only son of Mr and Mrs C Mitchell of 148 Chapletown, Leeds. Born at Newry, County Down, Ireland. At rest in Mill Road Cemetery, Thiepval, Somme, France.

www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205385916

NICHOLSON Thomas. Corporal 60714, 25th Northumberland Fusiliers, Tyneside Irish, died of wounds 19th May 1918. Son of Mrs. Mary Ann Nicholson, of 18, Old Hall St., Burmantofts. At rest in Beckett Street Cemetery, Leeds, Yorkshire.

O'NEILL W. It may be this person. Sapper 200281, William O'NEILL. Inland Water Transport, Royal Engineers died 20th January 1918 aged 48. Husband of Sarah Ann O'Neill, of 35, Waterloo St., Hunslet Road, Leeds. At rest in St. Omer Souvenir Cemetery, Longuenesse, France.

SCHOFIELD George. Rifleman 1729, 1/7th West Yorkshire Regiment died 2nd July 1916 aged 22. Son of Mr. and Mrs. Schofield, of 52, Melrose Street, Beckett Street, Leeds. Commemorated on the Thiepval Memorial, Somme, France.

SHUTT John Edward. Gunner 775615,C Battery, 310th Brigade, Royal Field Artillery died of wounds 7th April 1917 aged 21. Son of Charles and Emily Shutt, of 8, Roseville Road, Roundhay Road, Leeds. His father was granted a war gratuity on the 20th June 1917, revised on the 4th November 1919. Commemorated on the Arras Memorial, France.

SIMMONS George. Private 21313, 7th King's Own Scottish Borderers killed in action 11th May 1916. Commemorated on the Loos Memorial, France.

SIMPSON John. Private SS/1430, 6th Cavalry, Brigade Headquarters, Army Service Corps, accidentally burnt to death 5th November 1914. Born and enlisted in Leeds. He was born on the 14th February 1892, baptised on the 20 March 1892 at St Peter's, Leeds, parents Albert and Alice of Waterloo Street, Leeds. In 1911 he was living with his mother, (father not at home when the census was taken) and siblings at 7 Lumb Street, Mill Street, Leeds, occupation, railway clerk. His mother and brother of George Alfred both were granted a war gratuity on the 12th March 1915. His brother George Alfred served as Lance Corporal 34416, West Yorkshire Regiment. He survived the Great War. Commemorated on the Menin Gate Memorial, Ypres, Belgium.

SHANN Thomas Ernest. Sergeant 75085, Lines of Communication Signal Coy. (North Palestine) Royal Engineers died at homein England, while on demob leave on the 26th February 1919 aged 43. Son of the William and Hannah Shann, of Breary, Bramhope, Leeds, husband of Minnie B. Shann, of 15, Hesle Mount, Leeds. Commemorated on a Screen Wall at Lawnswood Cemetery, Leeds, Yorkshire.

SINGLETON Thomas. Private 629, 21st West Kent Regiment died 19th December 1916 aged 24. Son of Joseph and Ada Singleton, of 7, Argyle Street, Leeds. At rest in Grove Town Cemetery, Meaulte, Somme, France.

SMITH Joseph Duncan. Rifleman 3281, 7th West Yorkshire Regiment died of wounds 28th May 1915. Son of James and Mary Emma of (1881) George Street, Leeds, Yorkshire. In 1911 his father now a widower he was living with his son Benjamin and his family at 2 Duke William Street, York Road, Leeds, Joseph is now married. He is living with his wife Sarah Ann, Nee Marsh and his children at 9 Franchise Street, York Road, Leeds. He was married on the 29th July 1895 at St Agnes and St Stephens, Burmantofts, Leeds, aged 21 to Miss Sarah Ann Marsh aged 22. He was living at 48 Windsor Street, Burmantofts, Leeds, Yorkshire. At rest in Estaires Communal Cemetery and Extension, France.

SNOWDEN Henry. Private 67604, Royal Fusiliers posted to 1/3rd London Regiment, (Royal Fusiliers), formerly 77762, 89th Training Battalion, killed in action 21st March 1918 aged 19. Son of Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Snowden, of 3, Station View, Seghill, Northumberland. Employee of North Eastern Railway. Commemorated on the Pozieres Memorial, Somme, France.

SPEECHLEY Arthur. Rifleman 306207, 8th West Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 1st September 1918. His widow, Alice, nee Hinchliffe, was granted a war gratuity on the 22nd January 1919, revised on the 8th April 1919 and again on the 10th December 1919. In 1911 he was living with his wife and child at 31 Hill Street, Leeds, Yorkshire. He was married aged 25 on the 21st February 1903 at St Aiden, Leeds to Alice Hincliffe, aged 25. He was a machine operator and lived at Bexley Gardens, Leeds. Born on the 19th January 1878 to Benjamin and Mary Ann and baptised on the 25th December 1878 at St Peter's church, Leeds, home address was Charles Street, Leeds. In 1911 his parents were living at 25 Nippet Street, Leeds. At rest in Vaulx Hill Cemetery, France.

SPENCER Samuel Mark. Corporal R/10396, 12th Kings Royal Rifles killed in action 18th September 1916. Commemorated on the Thiepval Memorial, Somme, France.

STANDEN Leslie James Denman. Captain, 5th Lincolnshire Regiment died 18th March 1916 aged 20. Eldest son of the Revd. Canon James Edward Standen, Prebendary of Lincoln Cathedral and Vicar of Gainsborough, and of Harriett Eliza Standen. Undergraduate of Christ's College, Cambridge, and member of Cambridge O.T.C. At rest in Ecoivres Military Cemetery, Mont-St. Eloi, France.

STEAD Ernest. Private 7268, 1st West Yorkshire Regiment died 20th September 1914 aged 29. Son of Thomas and Annie Elizabeth Stead, of 41 Musgrove Fold, Leeds, Yorkshire; husband of Florence Stead and father of Bertha Stead, of Teistan Barrowby Lane, Whitkirk, Leeds. At rest in Chauny Communal Cemetery British Extension, France.

SUNDERLAND Edward Arthur. Private 21261, 12th Northumberland Fusiliers died 31st March 1917 aged 45. Husband of Elizabeth Sunderland, of 7, Easy Terrace, Easy Rd., Leeds. Born at Leeds. At rest in Vis-En-Artois British Cemetery, Haucourt, France.

SWITHENBANK Ralph, Private 238045, 12/13th Northumberland Fusiliers died 22nd August 1918 aged 20. Son of James and Jane Swithenbank, of 44, Hough Side Rd., Pudsey, Leeds. At rest in Bagneux British Cemetery, Gezaincourt, Somme, France.

TAYLOR Edward. Private 8033 2nd Canadian Infantry Born 19th July 1893, to Robert Taylor his next of kin who lived at 5 Kepler Grove, Leeds. He had previously served 4 years with the 7th West Yorkshire Regiment. Joined up on the 22nd September 1914. In 1911 he was living with his parents, Robert and Elizabeth at 5 Kepler Grove, Leeds, he was a Fireman, working the stationary engine. Died 25th April 1915. At rest in Hazebrouck Communal Cemetery, France

THICKETT Walter Duncan, 90th Winnipeg Rifles, 8th Canadian Infantry. Born 19th July 1886. He lived at Crossgates, Leeds, occupation, machinist. Joined up on the 21st September 1919. Son of Thomas and Elizabeth Ann Thickett, of Leeds. At rest in Chocques Military Cemetery, France.

WAINWRIGHT William. Sergeant 9227, 11th Lancaster Fusiliers killed in action 26th April 1916. Born and enlisted in Leeds, Yorkshire. Commemorated on the Arras Memorial, France.

WHELLER (memorial has WELLER F S) Ronald Frederick Samuel, Private 41293, 1st Kings Own Royal Lancaster Regiment died 17th June 1918 aged 18. Son of John and Selina Mary Elizabeth Wheller, of 1, Reginald View, Chapeltown Road., Leeds. At rest in Mont-Bernanchon British Cemetery, Gonnehem, France

WHITE A 90 Winnipeg Rifles The Canadian military records shown no A White with a connection to Leeds, Yorkshire, likewise the CWGC records.

WILLEY Thomas Arthur Raymond Robert Ellicot . 2nd Lieutenant, D Company, 15th West Yorkshire Regiment killed in action 1st July 1916 aged 19. Son of Arthur Willey, of Calverley Chambers, Victoria Square, Leeds. Commemorated on the Thiepval Memorial, Somme, France.

WILLIAMS H. It may be the following. Private 17/927 Harry WILLIAMS, 17th West Yorkshire Regiment died of wounds 19th July 1916 aged 19. Born in York, lived at New Wortley, Leeds, Yorkshire. Son of Thomas Edward and Louisa Williams, of 2, Lambrook Street, Jack Lane, Leeds. At rest in Corbie Communal Cemetery Extension, Somme, France.

WILSON George Harold (M.M) Sergeant 51208, 9th Battery, 41st Brigade, Royal Field Artillery killed in action 8th May 1917 aged 28. Son of Thomas and Emma Wilson, of 19, Flora St., Langsett Road, Sheffield. Born at Weymouth Dorset, enlisted at Sheffield. At rest in Ste. Catherine British Cemetery, France

WOOD Benjamin Frederick. Private 15/1011, 15th West Yorkshire Regiment died 1st July 1916 aged 21. Son of Benjamin and Sarah Ann Wood, of 12, Beckett Street, Burmantofts, Leeds. Commemorated on the Thiepval Memorial, Somme, France.

WOODCOCK John. Private 32601, 8th York and Lancaster Regiment killed in action 7th June 1917 aged 32. He was born on the 29th December 1884 to Joseph and Annie Elizabeth Woodcock of 50 Acorn Street, Burmantofts, Yorkshire. In 1911 his parents were living at 33 Charlton Street, Leeds. On the 27th December 1909 he married Miss Ethel Byrom at Leeds Parish Church. 1911 he was living with his wife at 12 Charlton Mount East End Park, Leeds, later of 41, Lower Town Street, Bramley, Leeds. Commemorated on the Menin Gate Memorial, Ypres, Belgium.

Some notes from what remains of his army records. He enlisted on the 1st December 1915 aged 30 and 11 months, occupation, paper ruler. He was posted to the Army Reserve to await his mobilization. On the 2nd February 1917 he was mobilised and posted to the 6th Training Reserve as private 22390. After he had completed his training he embarked from Folkestone on the 26th April 1917, disembarked at Boulogne, France the same day. He then marched into 32nd Infantry Base Depot, Etables on the 27th April 1917 to await his dispersal to his regiment. On the 13th May 1917 he was posted to the 8th York and Lancaster Regiment as private 32601.

YATES Reginald. Private 24115,12th West Yorkshire Regiment. Killed in action 23rd July 1916. He was the son of Eliza and brother of George both were granted a war gratuity on the 28th August 1917. Commemorated on a memorial chair in Lady Chapel, St Peter's Church, Leeds, also commemorated on the Thiepval Memorial, Somme, France

 

but I'm not the only one. ;~)P

This is the third tome I have visited St Vncent: first time I found it locked, or more likely did not push the door hard enough, second time I did go inside but only took a handful of shots. So this time, it means a lot of snapping.

 

Both this and Wingham were among the first churches I visited in this project, and with years of accumulated knowledge a return is always good to see what you missed the first, and second time.

 

As it turned out, I could not find the church. It is signposted off the main road, then nothing. We were two miles in the country before I found a place to turn round, but a check of the county map and we turned back to the village and found it on Church lane, of course.

 

Littlebourne is another village and church on the banks of the Nailbourne, a winterbourne, that flows through here to Bridge, eventually to Barham. Downstream it turns quickly into the Little Stour which in turn flows into the Great Stour at Plucks Gutter.

 

The view from the south is limited due to mature trees, but from the north reveals several periods of buildings with rooflines at different angles and heights.

 

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The villages 13th century church, St Vincent of Saragossa, is thought to have been founded by the monks of St Augustine's Abbey in Canterbury and contains an ancient wall painting depicting Saint Christopher, patron saint of travellers. The church also has what is reckoned to be one of the finest collection of stained glass windows designed by Nathaniel Westlake in the country. Nathaniel Westlake was a leading designer of the Gothic Revival movement in England.

 

Work done in 1995 by experts from the V&A Museum established that he designed each of the windows over the long period of his work with the Company, thus giving an outstanding example of the development of his style.

 

The Church has a six-bell peal, the oldest bell dating back to 1597, the newest 1899.

 

www.littlebournebenefice.org.uk/littlebournechurchhistory...

 

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LOCATION: Situated at about 40 feet above O.D. on Head brickearth (over Upper Chalk). A little to the west of the river Little Stour. Littlebourne Court, originally belonging to St. Augustine’s Abbey, lies immediately to the north-west. Wickhambreaux and Ickham churches are not far away to the north and east.

 

DESCRIPTION: As with many North-East Kent churches, this church points south-east, and it is first documented in Domesday Book, with the eastern three-quarters of the nave of the present church presumably being, in part, of an early Norman date. The only visible evidence for the earliest structure, however, is outside the south-west corner of the nave. Here one can see reused Roman bricks, and the original steep slope of the very early 13th century south aisle (continuing the line of the nave roof). The nave must be earlier than this, so is at least 12th century in date. It is also worth noting the very rare dedication, to St Vincent.

The whole of the south arcade for the south aisle still survives in its very early 13th century form, with four pointed arches (that on the west is smaller). The arches have continuous flat

the piers themselves. All the dressings are in Caen stone.

Later in the 13th century a large new chancel was built, probably at about the time (c. 1245) when St Augustine’s Abbey were endowing the new vicarage there, after the appropriation. The chancel has four tall lancets on either side, and an eastern triplet which has internal shafting on the jambs, and deeply moulded rere-arches and hood-moulds. All the other lancets have plain rere-arches, and all the chancel windows sit internally on a filleted roll-moulding which steps up at the east end and runs under the triplet. There is a piscina on the south-east with a pointed arch (with hood) over it, and bar-stopped chamfers on the sides. On the north-west side of the chancel is a small doorway, which was restored in the 19th century. The chancel was fairly heavily restored on the outside in the 19th century (‘1865’ on one of the rain-water hoppers), but much of its original coursed whole flints are still visible, as well as some of the rows of putlog holes. The chancel also has a separate roof, with a west gable, but this was rebuilt completely in c. 1865.

At about the same time as the chancel was being rebuilt in the early to mid-15th century, a very plain tower was added at the west end (It is similar to the neighbouring tower at Ickham). This has a tall simple pointed arch (with flat chamfers and abaci) into the nave, and on the west is a simple pointed doorway with flat chamfers and a tall lancet above it. The tower is unbuttressed, and has four more wide restored lancets (one in each face) in the top (belfry) stage. Externally the tower has the remains of its original plastering over coursed flint with side-alternate Caenstone quoins. On top of the tower is a later medieval (14th/15th century) brooch spire (now covered in slates).

The tower was restored in 1899, and the bells were rehung in a new timber and cast iron frame. There are now six bells, dated 1597,1610, 1650 and three of 1899 (said to have been recast from two late medieval ones). Glynne tells us that there was an organ in a west gallery under the tower, but this was removed during the restoration. A shed (now 2 cloakrooms) was also added to the north side of the tower in c. 1899.

A small Lady Chapel may have been added to the north-east side of the nave in the later 13th century as shown by its two light trefoil-headed (with circular opening above) east window (it has an internal rere-arch). All other evidence for this above ground was removed by the early 14th and early 19th century re-buildings (see below). The Lady Chapel is first documented in the late 15th century, but most churches acquired a separate Lady Chapel in N.W. Kent in the 13th century.

In the early 14th century both the south and north aisles had their outer walls rebuilt. On the south this was a continuous heightening and rebuild for the full length of the nave (with the evidence for the earlier lean-to aisle surviving in the west wall, as shown above). There is however still a later 13th century lancet in the centre of the south wall, with a probable later 13th century south doorway next to it (though completely rebuilt externally in the 19th century). The other aisle windows are all, however, 2 - light early 14th century traceried windows, and the gables and separate pitched roof over the aisle is also perhaps 14th century (it is still hidden under a flat plaster ceiling). In the south aisle wall are some reused Reigate stone fragments, and the large later south buttress has Ragstone quoins and reused Reigate And Caenstone fragments (and heavy 19th century knapped flintwork). Some Purbeck marble is reused in the wall west of the south porch. This aisle also has a small square-topped piscina in its south-east corner, and a very small stoup just inside the door on the east.

Hasted tells us that ‘a few years ago the north isle fell down, when there were some curious paintings discovered by the breaking of the plaster from the walls. This aisle was immediately rebuilt’. It is however, clear from the present remains (and from the Petrie water-colour view), that the church was again rebuilt in the early 19th century, with the present flatish 4-bay crown/king post nave roof and lath and plaster ceiling. The two dormers on the south side of the nave roof are presumably of the same date as is the shallow-pitched shed-roof over the north aisle, and the wooden post and two semi-circular arches into the north aisle. On the north-west side of the nave one can see an infilled pointed arch (? of chalk) with abaci, suggesting that there was originally a 13th century 3-bay north aisle (and Lady Chapel). The scar for the south-west corner of this aisle which did not continue to the west end of the nave, is just visible, and the late 18th century collapse was clearly at the west end of this aisle, which was not rebuilt (the other aisle-wall window being reset in the nave wall). The north wall of the north aisle must have been rebuilt in the early 14th century with buttresses and new two-light traceried windows. There may have been a north door here.

Only the chancel was heavily restored in the later 19th century (1865) with a new south porch in 1896, replacing a brick one, according to Glynne. A porch is documented from at least 1505.

 

BUILDING MATERIALS: (Incl. old plaster, paintings, glass, tiles etc.):

The main local material is flint, and whole flints, in courses, are used for all the early work with dressings of Caenstone. Some Reigate stone is then used in the 13th century, with Kent Rag for the quoins in the early 14th century. There is also some reused Purbeck marble in the walls, and Bathstone is used for the late 19th century restorations. Hasted mentions ‘the remains of good painted glass’ in the chancel side lancets and ‘seven sacraments, etc. handsomely done, with rich borders’ in the eastern lancets, ‘but they have been some few years since removed’ (op. cit. below, p.155). Also he mentions armorial glass in the S.E. window of the south aisle, and other now-vanished glass is known from the church - see C.R. Councer (below).

 

EXCEPTIONAL MONUMENTS IN CHURCH: None, but remains of medieval wall-painting on the north side of the nave, at the west end. Also a leger slab, with a small brass inscription in it, dated 1585, in front of the chancel arch. Also some early 19th century Benefaction boards on the west wall of the south aisle. Most of the furnishings in the church date from the restoration of 1864-4, or later.

 

CHURCHYARD AND ENVIRONS:

Size & Shape: Large north-south rectangular area around church, with large extensions to north (20th century) and south (19th century).

 

Condition: Good

 

Building in churchyard or on boundary: Lych Gate of timber (1892) to the south. Very large c. early 14th century great barn of Littlebourne Court (172ft long) runs along west boundary of the churchyard.

 

Ecological potential: ? Yes. The burial under a ‘great palm’ (ie. Yew Tree) in the churchyard is mentioned in a will of 1542, and there are still some quite large Yews north of the church.

 

Late med. Status: Vicarage endowed in 1245 with a house, some tithes, etc. A chaplain had to be found to celebrate weekly in Garrington Chapel.

 

Patron: St. Augstine’s Abbey, Canterbury (and alienated to the Italian monastery of Monte Mirteto in Italy, 1224). In 1538 it went to the crown, and then on to the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury in 1541.

 

Other documentary sources: Hasted IX (1800) , 155-8. There is much documentation in Thorne’s Chronicle and the ‘Black Book’ of St Augustine’s. Testamenta Cantiana (E. Kent, 1907), 196-8 mentions burial in the churchyard from 1473, the church porch (1501), various ‘lights’, the altar of Our Lady (1499+), reparation of the altars of St James and St Nicholas (1473), for paving between the chancel and the west door (1419).

 

SURVIVAL OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL DEPOSITS:

Inside present church: ? Good.

 

Outside present church: ? Good, though there is a large soil build-up around the church, and a brick-lined drainage gulley (up to 2ft deep) has been made all around the church.

 

RECENT DISTURBANCES/ALTERATIONS:

To structure: None, but chancel stalls brought from St Johns, Herne Bay in 1974, and organ in north aisle from Holy Cross, Canterbury in 1972.

 

To floors: Brick floor relaid at east end of S. aisle - Oct 1991.

 

Quinquennial inspection (date/architect): Feb. 1990 Maureen O’Connor.

 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL ASSESSMENT:

A Norman nave was given a lean-to south aisle and perhaps extended to the west in the very early 13th century, with a plain west tower being added soon after. The chancel was rebuilt (and greatly enlarged) in the mid 13th century, and there was probably also a Lady Chapel and nave north aisle by the later 13th century. The outer walls of the aisles were rebuilt in the early 14th century. A timber spire was also built. In the late 18th century the west end of the north aisle collapsed and this was rebuilt along with the nave roof, etc. again in the early 19th century. Chancel restored in 1865, and west tower in 1899 (with rehung bells). A new south porch was built in 1896.

 

The wider context: One of a group of churches belonging to St Augustine’s Abbey, Canterbury with major rebuildings in the 13th and early 14th centuries.

 

REFERENCES: S.R. Glynne, Notes of the Churches of Kent (1877), 167-8. (He visited in 1851). C.R. Councer, Lost Glass from Kent Churches ) (1980), 77-8.

 

Guide Book: None available in church, but see St Vincent’s Church, Littlebourne by Elizabeth Jeffries (1984) - very poor for architectural history.

 

Plans & drawings: Petrie early 19th cent. view from N.E., with continuous roof slope over nave and N. aisle.

 

DATES VISITED: 19th December 1996 REPORT BY: Tim Tatton-Brown

 

www.kentarchaeology.org.uk/01/03/LIT.htm

 

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LITTLEBORNE

LIES the next parish south-eastward from Stodmarsh, taking its name from its situation close to the stream which bounds the eastern part of it, and at the same time to distinguish it from the other parishes of the name of Borne in the near neighbourhood of it.

 

There is but one borough in this parish, called the borough of Littleborne.

 

Littleborne extends to the skirt of the beautiful and healthy parts of East Kent, and verging farther from the large levels of marsh land which lie near the Stour, quits that gloomy aspect of ill health so prevalent near them, and here begins to assume one more cheerful, pleasant and healthy; and Twyne tells us, (fn. 1) that it was allotted by the abbot and convent of St. Augustine's, who possessed the manor, for the plantation of vines. The village is built on the high road leading from Canterbury to Sandwich and Deal, at the eastern boundary of the parish, adjoinining to the Little Stour, and consists of about forty houses. The church stands at a small distance from it, having the courtlodge close to it, with the parsonage at a small distance. This parish extends northward as far as the Stour, opposite to Westbere, in which part of it however, there is but a small quantity of marsh-land, near which is an estate called Higham, which antiently was owned by a family of that name. Above the hill, south-eastward from hence, there is a great deal of woodland, and among it a tract of heathy rough land, belonging to the archbishop, called Fishpool-downs, through which the road leads to Wickham. At the bottom of Fishpool hill is the valley called the Ponds, now entirely covered with wood, part of which is in this parish. The ponds were supplied from a spring called Arrianes well, probably for Adrian's well, and were of a considerable size and depth, made for the supply of the convent of St. Augustine, the owners of them, with fish for their refectory, the sides of them now equally thick with coppice wood, were antiently a vineyard. These woods continue from hence adjoining the high road towards the village in great quantities, much of which belongs to the archbishop, and are intermixed with a great deal of rough bushy ground. The lands in this parish are in general very poor and gravelly, but towards Wickham they are much more fertile both for corn and hops, of which there are several plantations. This parish extends across the river eastward towards the hill, and takes in great part of Lower Garwinton, and part of the house, and some little land of Upper Garwinton within it, which is entirely separated from the rest of it by the parish of Adisham intervening.

 

Polygonatum scalacæci, Solomon's seal; grows plentifully on Fishpool-hill in this parish.

 

A fair is held here on the 5th of July, for toys and pedlary.

 

In the year 690, Widred, king of Kent, gave to the monastery of St. Augustine, in pure and perpetual alms, five plough-lands called Litleborne, on condition of their remembring of him in their prayers and solemn masses. And in the year 1047, king Edward the Consessor gave another plough-land here, which consisted of the estates of Bourne, Dene, and Wiliyington, to archbishop Eadsin, free from all service, except. the trinoda necessitas, and he bestowed it on that monastery. After which the manor of Little borne continued in the possession of the abbey to the time of taking the survey of Domesday, in which it is thus entered under the general title of the land of the church of St. Augustine:

 

In Dunamesfort hundred, the abbot himself holds, Liteburne, which is taxed at seven sulings. The arable land is twelve carucates. In demesne there are three carucates, and thirty-five villeins, with fourteen cottagers having six and an half. There is a church, and thirtyeight acres of meadow. Wood for the pannage of four hogs. In the time of king Edward the Consessor it was worth twenty-five pounds, afterwards twenty pounds, now thirty-two pounds. Of this manor the bishop of Baieux has in his park, as much as is worth sixty shillings.

 

After this the abbot and convent's possessions here were increased by several gifts and purchases of different parcels of land. (fn. 2)

 

King Henry III. in his 54th year, granted to the abbot and convent free-warren in all their demesne lands of Littleborne, among others. In the 7th year of king Edward II.'s reign, anno 1313, in the iter of H. de Stanton and his sociates, justices itinerant, the abbot, upon a quo warranto, claimed and was allowed in this manor among others, free warren in all his demesne lands of it, and view of frank-pledge, and other liberties therein-mentioned, in like manner as has been already mentioned before, in the description of the manors of Sturry and Stodmarsh. (fn. 3) By a register of the monastery of about this time, it appears, that this manor had then in demesne the park of Trendesle. In the 10th year of king Edward III. Solomon de Ripple being custos, or bailiff of this manor, made many improvements here, and purchased more lands in it, all the buildings of it being in a manner wholly re-built and raised from the ground, with much cost, by him. In king Richard II.'s reign, the abbot's manor of Littleborne was valued at 23l. 8s. 6d. the admeasurement of the lands being 505 acres. After which this manor continued with the monastery till its dissolution, anno 30 Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, and remained in the crown till king Edward VI. in his 1st year, granted the manor and manor-house, with all lands and appurtenances, and a water-mill lately belonging to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, to the archbishop, among other premises, in exchange for the manor of Mayfield, &c. parcel of the possessions of whose see it still remains, the archbishop being the present owner of it. The manor, with the profits of courts, royalties, &c. the archbishop keeps in his own hands; but the demesnes have been from time to time demised on a beneficial lease. The family of Denne have been for more than a century lessees of it, who now reside in the court-lodge.

 

On the abolition of episcopacy, after the death of king Charles I. this manor was sold by the state to Sir John Roberts and John Cogan, the latter of whom, by his will in 1657, gave his moiety of it to the mayor and aldermen of Canterbury, for the benefit of six poor ministers widows (for whose use he had at the same time demised his dwelling-house in Canterbury, now called Cogan's hospital. But the manor of Littleborne, on the restoration in 1660, returned again to the see of Canterbury.

 

The manor of Wolton, alias Walton, lies in the southern part of this parish, adjoining to the precinct of Well, and was antiently possessed by a family who took their name from it, one of whom, John, son of John de Wolton, held it at the latter end of king Henry III.'s reign. But this family became extinct here before the reign of king Edward III. in the 20th year of which, Roger de Garwinton held it by knight's service, (fn. 4) in whose descendants it continued till it passed into the family of Petit, of Shalmsford, who held it of the abbot of St. Augustine's by the like service, in which name and family it continued till it was at length alienated to Sir Henry Palmer, of Bekesborne, whose descendant of the same name passed it away by sale to Sir Robert Hales, of Bekesborne, in whose descendants it continued down to Sir Philip Hales, bart. of Howlets, who in 1787 alienated this manor to Isaac Baugh, esq. of Well, the present owner of it.

 

Wingate, alias Lower Garwington, in a manor, which lies on the other or eastern side of the river, adjoining to Ickham, taking the former of those names from a family, who were owners of it in Henry III.'s reign, and held it by knight's service of the abbot and convent of St. Augustine. In which reign Simon de Wingate held it as above-mentioned, but before the 20th year of King Edward III. this name was extinct here, and Thomas de Garwinton then held this estate, lying in Wingate, held of the abbot by the like tenure. (fn. 5) In the descendants of Thomas de Garwington, who resided at their mansion and manor, since called Upper Garwinton, adjoining to it, seems to have continued some time, and from them, as well as to distinguish it from that, to have taken the name of Wingate, alias Lower Garwinton. After this family had quitted the possession of it, the Clyffords appear from different records to have become owners of it, and after them the Sandfords, and it appears by the escheat rolls, that Humphrey Sandford died possessed of it in the 14th year of king Henry VII. and that Thomas Sandford was his son and heir. After which it came into the hands of the crown, for king Henry VIII. in his 30th year, granted the manors of Wingate and Garwinton to Sir Christopher Hales, then master of the rolls. He left three daughters his coheirs, who became jointly, entitled to it, and on the division of their estates it was allotted to the youngest daughter Mary, who entitled her husband Alexander Colepeper, esq. to it, in which name it continued till the 22d of queen Elizabeth, when it was passed away by sale to Thomas Fane, esq. whose son Francis, earl of Westmoreland, sold it to William Prude, alias Proude, esq. who being a lieutenant-colonel in the army, was slain at the siege of Maestricht in 1632, having devised this estate in tail male to his eldest surviving son Serles Prude, who died in 1642, leaving only two daughters his coheirs, upon which it came to his next brother William, who left an only daughter Dorothy, and she, the entail being barred, carried it first in marriage to Nethersole, by whom she had no issue, and secondly to Christopher May, esq. of Rawmere, in Suffex, whose only daughter and heir Anne, entitled her husband William Broadnax, esq. of Godmersham, to the possession of it. His son Thomas Changed his name, first to May and then to Knight, and died possessed of this manor in 1781, leaving an only son Thomas Knight, esq. of Godmersham, who in the year 1785 exchanged it for other lands in Crundal with Thomas Barret, esq. of Lee, the present owner of it.

 

Upper Garwinton is a manor, which lies adjoining to that last-described, southward, at the boundary of this parish, next to Adisham, in which parish part of the mansion of it stands, being written in the survery of Domesday, Warwintone, one of the many instances in that book of the mistakes of the Norman scribes. It was, after the conquest, parcel of those possessions with which the Conqueror enriched his half-brother Odo, the great bishop of Baieux and earl of Kent, and was exchanged by him for other lands with the abbot of St. Augustine's, accordingly it is thus entered in that record, under the general title of the land of the church of St. Augustine:

 

The abbot himself holds Warwintone, and the bishop of Baieux gave it to him in exchange of his park. It was taxed at half a suling and forty-two acres of land. The arable land is one carucate, and there is in demesne, with three cottagers, and sixteen acres of meadow. In the time of king Edward the Confessor it was worth four pounds, and afterwards forty shillings, now four pounds. This manor Edric de Sbern Biga held, and now Radulf holds it of the abbot.

 

Whether this description extended to the last-described manor of Wingate, is uncertain, though most probably, as both were held of the abbot by knight's service, it was comprehended in it. However that may be, this manor of Garwintone, called as above, erroneously, in Domesday, Warwintone, was held of the abbot by a family who took their surname from it; one of whom, Richard de Garwynton, resided here at the latter end of king Henry II.'s reign, and had a chapel at his mansion here; and in 1194, the abbot granted to him and his heirs, to have the divine office celebrated for three days in a week in this chapel by the priest of Littleborne. (fn. 6) His descendant Thomas Garwinton was possessed of this manor and several other estates in this part of the county, in the 20th year of king Edward III. whose great-grandson William Garwynton dying S. P. Joane his kinswoman, married to Richard Haut, was anno II Henry IV. found to be his heir not only to this manor, but to much other lands in these parts, and their son Richard Haut having an only daughter and heir Margery, she carried this manor in marriage to William Isaac, esq. of Patrixborne, whose descendant Edward Isaac, at his death, gave this manor to his two daughter by his second wife, viz. Mary, married to Thomas Appleton, esq. of Suffolk, and Margaret, to John Jermye, second son of Sir John Jermye, of the same county, and they seem to have shared this manor between them. Thomas Appleton sold his share afterwards to Anthony Parker, who with Isaac Jermye, eldest son of John above-mentioned, joined in the sale of the entire see of it to Sir Henry Palmer, of Howlets, and he by his will in 1611, devised it to his nephew John Goodwyn, whose heirs some time afterwards passed it away by sale to George Curteis, esq. afterwards knighted, and of Otterden, and he alienated it to Sir Robert Hales, of Bekesborne, in whose descendants it continued down to Sir Philip Hales, bart. of Howlets, who in 1787, passed it away by sale to Isaac Baugh, esq. the present owner of it.

 

Charities.

John Dorrante, of Bekesborne, yeoman, in 1560, gave by will, to discharge the poor from the assessments of the church, the overplus to be paid to the most antient poor of the parish, the sum of 3s, 6d. on Palm Sunday and the Monday before Penticost; and 21s. 6d. on Christmas-day yearly, out of the house and lands called Church-house, now vested in Mr. Peter Inge.

 

Henry Sloyden, of Wickhambreaux, in 1568, gave by will to the poor of this parish and of Wickham, six acres and a half of land, called Church-close, to be divided between them yearly, now of the annual produce of 3l. 9s. 9d.

 

Sir Henry Palmer, by his will in 1611, gave 10s. to be paid yearly out of his manor of Welle, for the use of the poor.

 

James Franklyn, by will in 1616, gave to the parishes of Littleborne, Chistlet, and Hoathe, in Reculver, 5l. each, to be employed in a stock for the poor. This 5l. is now increased to 11l. this interest of which being 8s. 93frac34;d. is distributed among the poor in general.

 

Valentine Norton, gent. by his will, was a benefactor to the poor; but there are no particulars further known of it.

 

The poor constantly relieved are about fifty, casually thirtyfive.

 

This parish is within the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Bridge.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Vincent, consists of three isles and a chancel, having at the west end a low pointed steeple, in which hang five bells. The church is kept very neat. It is a good sized building, and is handsomely ceiled. The chancel is lostly, and has four narrow lancet windows on each side, and three at the end; in the former are the remains of good painted glass, and in the latter some years ago were the seven sacraments, &c. very handsomely done, with rich borders, but they have been some few years since removed. In it is a memorial for George I'anns, curate, obt. 1699. In the middle isle are several memorials for the family of Denne, for many descents lessees of the court-lodge, and descended from those of Dennehill, in Kingston, In the south-east window of the south isle is a saint holding a shield of arms, in front, Gules, three cocks, argent, being the arms of Bunington, on the lest side a moon, on the right a sun, all very well done; and there were formerly in one of the windows, the arms of Higham, argent, a lion passant regardant, between six cross-croslets fitchee, sable, impaling Gallaway, ermine, three lozenges, gules. A few years ago the north isle fell down, when there were some curious paintings discovered, by the breaking of the plaister from the walls. This isle was immediately rebuilt. In the church-yard, at the north-west part of it, are several tombs and head stones of the family of Denne before- mentioned.

 

¶The church of Littleborne was antiently appendant to the manor, part of the possessions of the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, and continued so till the year 1224, when Robert de Bello being chosen abbot, and finding much difficulty in obtaining the pope's benediction, to facilitate it, gave this church to the monastery of St. Mary de Monte Mirteto, in Italy, to which the pope, in 1241, appropriated it. Immediately after which, this parsonage, so appropriated, was demised to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, in perpetual ferme, at the clear yearly sum of thirty marcs. (fn. 7) Four years after which, anno 1245, archbishop Stratford endowed the vicarage of it, the advowson of which was reserved to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, when he decreed, that the vicarage should be endowed with a mansion, the tithes of filva cæ dua, of hay, and in three acres of arable, one acre of meadow, and in the receipt of three marcs and an half in money from the religious yearly, and in the tithes of flax, hemp, ducks, calves, pigeons, bees, milk, milkmeats, mills, wool, pigs, and in all oblations and other small tithes belonging to the church; and that the vicar should serve the church in divine rites, and find one chaplain to celebrate weekly in the chapel of Garwyntone, and to find bread, wine, and tapers, for celebrating divine rites in the church. Which endowment was afterwards, in 1370, certified by inspeximus, by archbishop Wittlesey. In which state this church and advowson remained till the final dissolution of the abbey of St. Augustine, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when they came into the king's hands, and the king, in his 33d year, settled both, by his dotation-charter, on his new-erected dean and chapter of Canterbury, with whom they continue at this time. The parsonage has been from time to time let on a beneficial lease, Mr. Thomas Holness being the present lessee of it, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands.

 

The vicarage of Littleborne is valued in the king's books at 7l. 19s. 10d. but the yearly tenths taken are sixteen shillings, the sum total being erroneonsly cast up in the king's books at eight pounds. The antient pension of 3l. 17s. 4d. from the abbey of St. Augustine's, is yearly received by the vicar out of the exchequer; the demesne lands of the court-lodge pay no greattithes, and the archbishop's woods in his own occupation pay none. In 1588 here were one hundred and fifty communicants; in 1640 the same, when it was valued at thirty-five pounds. It has been augmented by the dean and chapter with fifty pounds per annum.

 

The chapel of Lukedale, in the precinct of Well, was once esteemed as within the bounds of this parish, of which more may be seen herefter, under Ickham, to which parish Well is now annexed.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol9/pp147-158

But let all who take refuge in you be glad;

let them ever sing for joy.

Spread your protection over them,

that those who love your name may rejoice in you.

 

Psalm 5:11 (NIV)

 

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Ok. This would have been done a few weeks back but I'm already knee deep into 2013 with shows.

 

2012 Year In Photos photoset

 

301 shows. I was kinda freaking out late December wondering if I'll get past 299 and lo and behold that Gal Gracen NYE show was my 300th of the year and it was memorable. Anyways, here's what went down in 2012.

 

Highlights:

 

January - went down to Florida. Too many old people but to be on a beach in January was worth it. Saw Village for the first time @ Mad Hatter's. They would eventually be my new (and still) Vancouver band crush.

 

February - Eleanor Friedberger. Twin Sister. Apollo Ghosts + Jay Arner + Movieland (first show!) @ the Zoo Zhop

 

March - Memoryhouse w/ Seapony + Jay Arner (my birthday weekend! now you know when my birthday is)

 

April - 4/20 - Too High Crew @ China Cloud. Holy shit, I love rap now...and smoking more weed.

 

May - Mac Demarco @ Ochi (still getting mass photo hits on flickr), NYC Popfest + SF Popfest, Luggage Store Gallery show in SF with Grass Widow + Broken Water

 

June - Sled Island - Too High Crew show @ Tubby Dog

 

July - Naomi + Ryan's wedding =w/ Apollo Ghosts. I photographed a wedding reception.

 

August - Smmr Bmmr in Portland. Wisconsin. Weed house show in Portland.

 

September - Pop Montreal as always. Shindig 2012 w/ Classic Rick and His Classic Rockers.

 

October - Naomi Punk w/ Nu Sensae @ Hollow Earth

 

November - Jens Lekman. Weed + Babysitter / Cascadia show @ Lion's Den

 

December - David Bazan plays Control album @ the Biltmore, Ty Segall @ the Waldorf, Boogie Monster's last show @ the Astoria + Zoo Zhop, Gal Gracen NYE + Sean Nicholas Savage / Blue Hawaii NYE

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Fave 2012 albums / releases

 

Capitol 6 - Pretty Lost

The Bilinda Butchers - Goodbyes

The Holiday Crowd - Over the Bluffs

Memoryhouse - The Slideshow Effect

Orca Team - Restraint

Jay Arner - Bad Friend

Foxes in Fiction - Heaven or Las Vegas (Cocteau Twins cover)

Naomi Punk - The Feeling

Village - Nowhere 7"

The Garlands - self titled LP

Each Other - Heavily Spaced

 

Lastfm scrobbles:

 

Jens Lekman

TV Girl

The Radio Dept.

The Bilinda Butchers

Memoryhouse

Wild Nothing

Saturday Looks Good To Me

The Holiday Crowd

Help Stamp Out Loneliness

Surf Club

 

Notable facts: (I might add more if i remember any)

 

I photographed / saw the band Each Other 7 times in one year. They are from Halifax / Montreal.

 

I somehow saw Seapony in Texas, New York, San Francisco, Seattle and Vancouver in one year as well. What-will-the-next-flickr-photo-be-spoiler alert: I just saw Seapony in Seattle last week.

 

2011 Year In Photos

2010 Year In Photos

2009 Year In Photos

2008 Year In Photos

  

PART 2:

We were already in to October 2nd, but I didn’t get to sleep that night. At 6am I headed downstairs to change into deck work clothes. We tended to wear a variety of boiler suits carried over from previous ships. Some cadets had orange or grey boiler-suits, but most had one that had started life as white when first made, or navy blue. Mine was navy blue, but I had torn off the sleeves for extra cooling. We were used to changes in routine and so were prepared for something new in the orders of the day that were being passed from cadet to cadet that morning. As in any survival situation the priority was to provide shelter and the cadets were instructed to raid the ship’s lockers, and anywhere else we could think of, and strip out every available, non-essential, bit of canvas, burlap and other weather proof sheeting we could find to make a shelter for the vulnerable people exposed on top of No.5 hatch.

 

That meant the white canvas screening, with plastic windows, that went around the swimming pool was lashed on top of the games net that enclosed No. 5 hatch. And there were spare winch covers, lifeboat covers, even the ship’s dinghy’s sail, tied haphazardly across the net too. It ended up as an untidy arrangement that gave puny protection from the elements. But fortunately the climate was warm and there was no rain. Even the tropical sun was weaker than usual letting us off with our miserable attempt to make a decent canopy.

 

Drinking water was made available in buckets, and extra drinking cups provided made out of cut down soft drink and beer cans. The ship simply didn't have enough eating and drinking utensils to go round. Most of the Vietnamese had lost their shoes in their escape and as the sun rose higher in the sky the steel deck began to heat up. Some fire hydrants on the deck were opened to allow salt water for washing, but also to cool the deck which was now painful for the Vietnamese to walk on in bare feet

 

Most of the Vietnamese lay, curled up under blankets on the bare steel hatch cover. Some were stirring, sitting up, looking about and a few made the short walk to and from the couple of toilets that were accessible from the deck. They seemed in a daze, exhausted and drained of life by their experience. And they were quiet, not even a noise from the children. Slowly they seemed to come to their senses as the ship’s catering staff came out with food. It was a strange mish-mash of food, our cooks prepared, unsure how to provide for so many of diverse cultures and different ages. Here was a ship equipped and provisioned to feed less than 50, but now had almost 400 mouths to feed. So at breakfast the cadets were surprised to find that the customary choice had gone, and in its place was one ‘hot’ course. Peering at the plate we could see potatoes, beans of various types, meat balls, rice, peas, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms all boiled into a red-brown stew. It was an unrecognisable meal that I’m sure has no name in a cookery book. As the stewards put the food on our plates, our reactions must have given our thoughts away! What’s this?! But actually to our energy sapped bodies it was good wholesome food and tasted better than it looked, and as the cook explained, it was the same as everyone got……….Vietnamese refugees and Wellpark crew alike.

 

That breakfast was the big one. It was the first proper meal the Vietnamese had had for at least four days. Already the ship’s whole supply of baked beans and oranges had disappeared at the first meal.

 

Outside the sun shone down on the ship. Now it rhythmically rolled gently on the swell as its bow cut through the sparkling waters at full speed. Out of sight of land, our heading was northerly towards Taiwan, but the crew were told that fact must remain secret and could not be divulged to the Vietnamese. There was the risk they might fear being repatriated to Vietnam or held in detention camps and trapped into a life worse than that they had fought to escape from. The Vietnamese were not known to us, and they outnumbered us seven to one. We could not discount the possibility they might wish to over-power us and take control of the ship.

 

That morning we set up a one-way system. The Vietnamese lined up the stairs on the starboard side of the ship and filed, one at a time, into a cabin set aside for medical checks. It had been discovered two of the Vietnamese were professional doctors and it was a priority to check everyone over after the trauma of their escape. Basic personal details such as name, sex, date of birth were recorded, before they were asked to carry on back down to the deck via the staircases on the port side of the ship. There were a few cases of measles and they were confined to the ship’s hospital, and a family which included their grandmother were accommodated in a more private part on the rear of the ship’s accommodation.

 

We were amazed to discover we had 343 ‘passengers’ on board, and as dribs and drabs of their journey before being rescued came out, we were incredulous that so many could have survived such a journey on a boat we seen for ourselves the night before was less than 70 feet long. It was hard to comprehend how they had come to be on that boat. From one cadet I would hear they started on three boats, but two sank and the survivors clambered on the remaining one – hence why it was so cramped. Another would say that they were at sea for three days without food and water. We had found them more than 120 miles from the nearest land. I had been told the boat’s steering had failed. From somewhere else I would hear they had been in concentration camps and that lots of other ships had passed them by. Apparently the Wellpark had spotted what was their last remaining flare. They had had to pay large amounts of gold to corrupt officials to be ‘allowed to escape’. As the cadets passed each other as they worked around the ship they exchanged information, so that as the day went on we had a better picture of who these people were and the terrible experience they had endured.

 

As we organised and arranged we spoke to the people, but only a few spoke English. Communication was hard but gradually their trepidation and fear dissipated and we began to see some smiles. To us they were all Vietnamese and when we asked one ‘Vietnamese’ to tell another to do something we could not understand why they could not do it. It took some time to appreciate the mix of Vietnamese and Chinese peoples on our ship.

 

But things improved fast, particularly when in the afternoon we erected screens of burlap around the ship’s small swimming pool. It was a less than perfect arrangement but it allowed everyone to wash and feel a little bit better in themselves.

 

That evening, after it had gone dark I heard that some of the cadets were out sitting on No.5 hatch amongst the Vietnamese. There they were, some sitting talking, others playing with children. And one had got his guitar out and a few had gathered around for a bit of a sing-song. It was a holiday camp-fire atmosphere, but without the camp-fire. It was a happy time, and I thought at the time it did a huge amount to lift the Vietnamese souls, and engender their trust in us.

 

Elsewhere the Captain was having to do a lot more thinking. He brought together a committee of Vietnamese leaders, six of them, each one an English speaker. It was essential that he had their co-operation to ensure their safety and security on Wellpark. They agreed on what would be expected of the refugees during their stay on the ship with particular emphasis on hygiene, sanitation, fire-risks and discipline amongst their people. A strict control over cleanliness was kept by both the working Committee of Wellpark’s Officers and the Vietnamese. With limited provisions on the ship, fresh water for drinking purposes would only be provided at 0900, 1300 and 1700 hours daily. Meal times were arranged for 0700, 1200 and 1700 hours. And a doctor’s surgery was set up twice daily 0900-1000 hours and 1600–1700 hours.

 

I hurriedly updated my letter to my parents that night, telling them the whole story as it had unfolded. Having retired to my bunk late, after joining in the sing-song on deck I was desperate for a few hours sleep, the first rest in 39 hours.

 

Life was a little more normal for us on the 3rd October, the second full day the Vietnamese were on board. We were still at sea, closing in on Kaohsiung, our next port of call. The day started with the Vietnamese mainly restricted to life on the hatchcover, away from the side railings of the ship. But as time moved on new friendships were being formed. Inevitably the Committee were meeting with the Captain to gain a better idea of their future. Some were working with the Captain acting as interpreters, and administering the personnel records. Elsewhere we already had the doctors helping out with medical aid where it was required. And some of the Vietnamese volunteered to contribute by working in the galley, helping to prepare food. Some Vietnamese who had an engineering background put themselves forward to help down in the ship’s engine room. And out on deck they were just as keen to help. I had just headed down the deck with a couple of other cadets and some brushes and tins of white paint. Our orders were to re-paint the railings where the paintwork had been damaged and spoiled by the actions during the rescue. We had barely started when a few Vietnamese men approached ready armed with paintbrushes. They must have gone to the ship’s stores and requested them, for now they took our paint-tins and started painting with two brushes each, one in each hand. We were somewhat bemused, not knowing whether to accept their help or demand that they returned to the hatchcover. But then a small group of little boys cautiously approached, unsure if they would be shouted at, but their curiosity had the better of them. As I painted, they watched me, all the time inching forward. As I paused to turn round and see who was behind me their little faces would crack into big wide smiles. And then one stretched out his arm pointing to the railing. I looked. The cheeky mite was telling me where I had missed a bit!! And then they were all pointing, all over the place to bits I had missed with my paintbrush! That day they followed me everywhere, only being summoned back to the hatchcover later by their anxious parents.

 

And that evening more of the cadets and crew came to sit on the hatchcover to talk, play and sing. Tomorrow we would arrive in Taiwan, not knowing what would happen to these people we were already so deeply attached to. Rumour had it we could end up taking them from Taiwan to Hong Kong or the Philippines. And it might take some time before a country would take them in.

 

Other chapters of this story are here:

 

PART A www.flickr.com/photos/pentlandpirate/1438584566/in/set-72...

PART 1 www.flickr.com/photos/pentlandpirate/1436299943/in/set-72...

PART 3 www.flickr.com/photos/pentlandpirate/1461744696/in/set-72...

PART 4 www.flickr.com/photos/pentlandpirate/1460893557/in/set-72...

PART 5 www.flickr.com/photos/pentlandpirate/1437563459/in/set-72...

PART 6 www.flickr.com/photos/pentlandpirate/1438381480/in/set-72...

 

You can also join the Wellpark Reunion site here : wellparkreunion.ning.com/main/authorization/signIn?target...

  

See www.shipsnostalgia.com/Guides/MV_Wellpark for the rest of the story

but im still there

You can't buy happiness, but..

Another model created with the Lego Digital Designer. The AT-ST is the one by TLC, but the platform is selfmade.

Blessings from the eldest worshiper of the family.

  

My Experience of Chhath

I am a permanent resident of Kolkata, but I never witnessed the celebration of Chhath Pooja here. Lakhs of migrant residents from Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and other states of India and Nepal as well, celebrated their most ancient festival along the bank of river Hoogly, the sacred river that flows through the city. On 6th November this year, around 2pm, I went to a famous ghat on the bank of river Hoogly opposite to Eden gardens. It was an unique photographic journey to witness how people performed their rituals with so much devotion and faith. I saw hundreds of devotees sitting on the banks quietly with their offerings to Sun God and some performing their rituals with half of their bodies immersed in the Ganges, and some with fire, called ‘Homas’. I was closely looking at them, and I was amazed by their dedication, devotion and complacency. Thousands of devotees were found proceeding towards the Ganges with their offerings, all cladded in bright clothes and ornaments, and many were found on their way to lay prone on the roads touching their whole body (Ashtanga or eight parts of the body) on the Earth and performing ‘Dondis’(Surya Namaskara -Sanskrit: सूर्यनमस्कार, Sun Salutation). Many of the family members, including newborn kids were found lying on the roads waiting for the main worshipper of the family to crossover their bodies as a way to get blessings from them. Most of the main family worshippers were found to be the eldest ladies of the family. Through Chhath, I rediscovered my religious India, in a new and beautiful way.

  

Chhath Pooja

Chhath is an ancient Hindu Vedic festival of worshiping Sun God, as the Rigveda contains hymns worshiping the Sun God and describes similar rituals.Historically it is native to eastern Uttar Pradesh, North Bihar of India and Mithila State of Nepal.The Chhath Puja is dedicated to the Sun and his wife Usha in order to thank them for bestowing the bounties of life on earth.The God is worshiped during the Chhath festival to promote well-being, prosperity and progress. In Hinduism, Sun worship is also believed to help cure a variety of diseases, including leprosy, and helps ensure the longevity and prosperity of family members, friends, and elders. Environmentalists claim that Chhath is the most eco-friendly Hindu festival.

 

Regions Celebrating Chhath

Although the festival is observed most elaborately in Mithila Province of Nepal,Terai-Madhesh region of Nepal, Indian states of Bihar, Jharkhand and UP, it is also more prevalent in areas where migrants from those areas have a presence.The festival is celebrated in the regions including but not exclusive to the northeast region of India, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Chandigarh, Gujarat, as well in various countries worldwide.

 

Timings

Chhath puja is performed on Kartika Shukla Shashthi, which is the sixth day of the month of Kartika in Bengali calender. This falls typically in the month of October or November in the Gregorian English Calendar.

  

History

The rituals also find reference in the Sanskrit epic poem Mahābhārata in which Draupadi is depicted as observing similar rites. It is assumed that the oldest Purohits were requested by the kings to come and perform the traditional pooja of the Lord Sun. They used to chant the ancient Rigveda texts and a variety of hymns for worshiping the God. In the ancient time of Mahabharata Chhath pooja was celebrated by Draupadi and Pandavas of Hastinapur (present Delhi) for solving their instant problem and regaining their lost kingdom. It is also assumed that the Chhath puja was first started by the Surya Putra (son of Sun God) Karna. He was a great warrior and had ruled over the Anga Desh (Munger district of Bihar) during the Mahabharata period.

 

Ethymology

The word chhath means sixth in Nepali, Maithili and Bhojpuri languages and the festival is celebrated on the sixth day of the month Kārtika of the Hindu lunar Bikram Sambat calendar.The word is a Prakrit derivation from the Sanskrit ṣaṣṭhi, meaning sixth.

The Goddess who is also worshipped during the famous Chhath Puja is known as Chhathi Maiya. Chhathi Maiya is known as Usha in the Vedas. She is believed to be the beloved younger wife of Surya, the sun god. The rituals signify rising sun as well as setting sun.

 

Rituals and Traditions of Chhath Puja

It is believed that worshipers of the Chhath take holy bath and follows a period of abstinence and become separate for 4 days from the main family. Throughout the period he is believed as the pure spirit and sleep on the floor having single blanket.

Devotees offer prasad to Sun at the Chhath such as sweets, Kheer, Thekua, bananas and other fruits included in a small bamboo tokari. The prasad is cooked without salt, onions or garlic with maintained purity. It is a four days festival which includes:

On the first day, devotees take bathe early in the morning in the holy water of Gange and bring some holy water to their home to prepare the offerings. The home and its surroundings should be cleaned at this day. They take only one meal a day known as kaddu-bhat cooked only by using the bronze or soil utensils and mango woods over the soil stove.

On the second day, the day before Chhath, devotees keeps fast for whole day and break their fast in the evening after sunset after the worship of Sun. They offer Rasiao-kheer, puris, fruits in the puja. After taking meal in the evening, they go on a fast without water for the next 36 hours.

On the third day (day of Chhath) they offer the Sanjhiya Arghya at the ghat of riverbank. After Arghya, they wear the single saree of turmeric color. Other family members are waiting for getting the blessings from worshiper. At the night of Chhath a vibrant event of Kosi is celebrated by lighting the lamps of clay diyas under the covering of five sugarcane sticks. The five sugarcane sticks indicate the Panchatattva (earth, water, fire, air and space) the human is body made up of.

On the early morning of the fourth day (Paarun), devotees along with their family and friends offer Bihaniya Aragh at the ghat of riverbank of Gange. Devotees end their festival through breaking the fast by having the Chhath prashad.

 

Six levels of purification in Chhath ( a belief)

The belief of fast and cleanliness of body on the festival identify the detoxification of the body and mind in order to set up the body and mind to accept the cosmic solar energy.

Standing in water with half of the body inside the water diminishes the escape of energy as well as facilitates the prana to elevate to the sushumna.

Then the entrance of cosmic solar energy takes place in the pineal gland, pituitary gland and hypothalamus (known as the Triveni complex) through the retina and optic nerves.

In the 4th stage Triveni complex gets activated.

After activation of the Triveni complex, spine gets polarized and body of devotee gets transformed into a cosmic powerhouse and gets the Kundalini Shakti.

At this stage the devotee is fully able to conduct, recycle and pass on the energy into entire universe.

  

Benefits of the rituals (a belief)

Devotee of the Chhath puja can improve the immunity of body.

A variety of skin infections can be cured through the safe radiations of sunlight.

It increases the fighting power of blood by improving the performance of WBC.

Solar energy provides the power to control the secretion of hormones.

 

Significance

Chhath puja has a special significance during the Sunrise and Sunset periods. The Sunrise and sunset are the most important periods of the day during which a human body can safely get the solar energy without any harm. That’s why there is a myth of offering the Sanjhiya Arghya and Bihaniya Arghya to the Sun at the Chhath festival. During this period the solar energy has low level of ultraviolet radiations so it is safe for the human body. People perform the Chhath puja in order to thank the Lord Sun for the lives on the earth as well as to get blessings.

The ritual of Chhath puja provides mental calmness (by detoxifying the body and mind), enhances the energy level and immunity, reduces the frequency of anger, greed and jealousy as well as lot of negative emotions. It is also believed that following the Chhath processes helps in slowing down the ageing process. Such beliefs and rituals of the Chhath make it the most significant festival in the Hindus ever.

 

[ Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chhath and www.varanasi.org.in/chhath-pooja ]

  

Ok so it all started when I was born - literally. My parents were young when they had me, just 19 years old. My grandparents got guardianship of my brother and I when I was about three years old. My family has a history of mental illness on both sides, so I was "doomed" naturally. Schizophrenia, bipolar, manic depression, all disorders someone in my family was diagnosed with. My maternal grandmother is manic depressive, and things were very difficult growing up because it wasn't addressed. She didn't believe in therapy and thought that nothing was wrong. Therapy was only for "messed up" people, and she had an extreme stigma about it. There are so many instances of verbal and emotional abuse towards my grandfather, my brother, my mother, and myself. But if you spoke up, it was even worse, you wouldn't dare speak up against it. It was always better to endure it and hope the next day would be better. She was, and still can be, very unpredictable. You'd think everything was dandy, until it wasn't. Things could switch in a moment into a screaming, "you-don't-care-about-me-how-come-no-one-cares-for-me" mess. I never wanted someone to ever go through that, or to feel like they couldn't speak up. I was often the one to speak up, so my grandmother and I would fight often. Hence, the anxiety, people-pleasing, wanting to always keep the peace mindset that I have as an adult. She's always needed help for her mental health, but you can't make someone do something they don't want. If they won't address what's hurting, things can't progress.

 

My grandfather, my grandmother, my brother, and I tried going to group therapy once. It didn't go well, and was entirely unproductive in creating any change. The time was spent with my grandmother asking why she was always the bad guy and how no one ever talked about how they hurt her, and essentially made for a bad time for awhile at home. I did go to counseling in school for awhile, but it was in a group setting so it wasn't as exclusive as going to one-on-one therapy. As a teenager, I did got to therapy for a little bit, but I stopped going because my therapists kept leaving for other practices. And I felt like I was "fine". Plus, what good does it do when you live somewhere that's always stressful and you feel like you can't really talk about your feelings anyways? I didn't want that for my life, ever. I knew that I wanted to be different. I was always sad as a kid that I didn't live with my parents. I never had an answer when people asked me why I didn't live with them, honestly I still am not sure completely why I didn't and I'll be 29 this year .

 

My mother ended up having a drug addiction problem when I was in sixth grade. My mother is also bipolar, although I don't know exactly when this was discovered. My grandmother hated my dad, for whatever reason. So I just had no pull in my desire to want to live with a parent. My mother had always been around, and she lived with us and my grandparents at times. I saw my dad on the weekends and holidays. In the beginning of her addiction, my grandparents got emergency custody of my brother Jacob. So now they were raising three kids. When my mother made the decision to get clean from heroin, I was about 11 (I think, not sure of my exact age). I loved her so much, and I'll always remember driving down the road with her one day as she was crying and saying "I love you, you know I do, right?" I was the one sitting with her in the bathroom while she went through withdrawal. It was hard to see my mother so sick. I stayed by her side and slept in the same room as her at night because I was so happy she was back home. I also went to NA and AA meetings with her. I liked the cookies and snacks they'd have. I really had no business being around so much adult information at my age, but as I see it I was the support in my mother's recovery, because everyone else was just mad at her. Naturally, it makes sense that as an adult my mother uses me as support often. She's better now and has been clean for over 10 years.

 

Eventually, I did get the chance to live with my father and my step-mom the summer before seventh grade. For whatever reason, my grandmother had a moment and agreed to let me live with them. I was ecstatic! I remember hopping onto the computer and instant messaging my step-mom on AIM. I lived with them from the beginning of seventh grade to halfway through my freshman year of high school. Living there was such a change from what I was used to; more routine and structure, more "normalcy". I moved back in with my grandparents halfway through my freshman year of high school. Around that time is when my father was really starting to struggle with his mental health (that I know of). There was one night I remember he got so angry that my step-mom and I went in the basement with our dog. He'd torn off the keyboard holder from the computer desk, ripped the sliding door off the track, and threw the board into the pool. He wasn't going to hurt us and I think we knew that, but he was just SO aggressively upset. I remember he left and that night I woke up to the sound of him crying in the bathroom pleading to God. He got diagnosed bipolar around that time. I didn't leave because he was struggling, but because I felt like me being there was too stressful and I missed being with my grandparents. Things were still the same when I moved back in, it's like I never left. I think part of me is always going to feel guilty for leaving my brothers there, even though getting out made such a change in me.

 

I met a junior boy, C is what we will call him, when I moved back. He was my second boyfriend. I'd only dated one person when I lived in Leominster, and it wasn't for long. I didn't really know much about dating, or sex, or how any of it worked really. I feel like I just figured out a lot of it on my own, leading to many poor decisions. Part of the issue is that my grandmother believed that any talk of sex, birth control, or even asking to be on birth control would automatically lead to pregnancy. And most of what I saw growing up was not-so-healthy relationships. C broke up with me shortly after I made the decision to have sex with him, through a note, passing me in the hallway to lunch. One of my first poor decisions, and it got worse because my grandmother found out about it and threatened to bring him to court for statutory rape. For whatever reason I thought that having sex with someone meant love. I don't know where I came up with that, but it was what I thought mattered. And I also couldn't stand to be alone, I somehow put all my worth in being with someone else.

 

A few boyfriends later, I met P at a little music release basement party for a mutual friend. We were a hit instantly, and I completely ignored all of my friends when they told me the next morning to not get involved with him. Another poor decision. We became boyfriend and girlfriend. I was with him for 3 years almost. We smoked a lot of pot, he skipped a lot of college, he would call out of work to stay with me. My grandmother would call me out sick from school so I could spend a week with him at his dorm in Boston. He practically lived at my grandparent's house with me at one point. It was very toxic. We were very clingy to one another and I had no freedom. I couldn't even really hang out with my friends if he wasn't there too. He didn't like when I colored my hair without asking. One time, I dyed it black without asking and he screamed at me for a good hour through the phone. My friend that was with me had to answer the phone at one point and tell him to stop calling. All my worth and who I was was determined by him. I wanted to stretch my ears but didn't because he got upset and told me that I only wanted to do that so I could fuck his friends. He was extremely emotionally and verbally abusive, narcissistic if you will. And he needed help with mental health, yet another non-believer of therapy in my life, and meds would just make you a zombie so forget that.

 

When I got to college, P had failed out of New England Institute of Art and ended up at The Mount with me. This was problematic. We had a lot of the same classes and friends. I ended up getting very close to another guy, A, who showed interest in me being who I wanted. I remember being told by A that I was being treated like property. I wasn't happy with P anymore, but I didn't know how to leave. I ended up cheating, which is absolutely against my morals. P found out because A was angry I wouldn't leave P and told him everything. It was a nasty breakup and there was a lot of fighting. We had all the same friends and so there was some division and tension. I failed out of college because I skipped classes so I wouldn't have to see him. But even after the breakup, P found a way to always be involved in my business.

While I was dating P, I stopped talking to my father for about a year. My father was trying to look out for me in a particular circumstance and went to P's house on his lunch one day to talk with him. I was a dumb teenager so I chose my boyfriend over my father. During that year my father tried to commit suicide. I only found out because of someone anonymous on the internet. My father did not succeed and is much better these days.

 

After P, I had a lot of small relationships. I was trying to find myself and who I wanted to be. I stretched my ears. I went to a lot of shows, and I did get to live with my mother by the way, when I turned 18. Things were hard and she didn't exactly like who I was. A lot of criticism for my boyfriends, who I dated, who my friends were. Because I was already an adult, her trying to parent me didn't exactly mesh. I smoked a pack of cigarettes a day. I was very stressed all the time. I lost my best friend after P, but I also was so caught up in myself I didn't see how awful of a friend I was. She even ended up dating P for a few years, and that was very hard for me. I never took accountability. I was an anxious mess, that couldn't just be by herself. A lot of my relationships felt like I was a "light" for the other person who was looking to fill a void or get over someone else. And even knowing that so many times, I'd just stay sometimes because I was "needed".

 

Eventually, I would meet my now husband Joe a year (roughly) after P. Joe and I were best friends first. We knew each other first, and hung out as friends first. He would drive from Dracut to Athol almost every day, that's like 2 hours just to get to me, then 2 hours home. We would sit in my room and watch Friend Zone on MTV (how fitting, right?) One day we found ourselves just casually holding hands. This was new for me. I didn't see it coming. Our relationship crept up and blossomed instead of my usual just jumping into a relationship. Joe was the only one to ever stand up to P and tell him he didn't have a place in my life anymore. The only person where I never doubted if I was just filling a void from someone else. Joe cared about my interests and what I enjoyed, and has continued to throughout our 9 year relationship. He showed me what being valued as myself was like. This is love. And I am grateful, because he gives me space to figure out who I am and change if I feel like it.

 

The lesson from this is that I finally learned that I was enough as me. I didn't have to try to be anyone's ex, I didn't have to try to be anyone but myself. I learned that I had value as a person, and that I could be who I wanted, because I WANTED to be that person. I could be a light in someone's life, without putting out my own light. I learned that my body was not the only thing someone should want in a relationship, and that sex does not mean love. And most importantly, I learned that I didn't need to fill a void in someone, or try to have someone to fill a void in myself. Things don't work that way. You cannot fix a person, you can only be there for them. As far as mental health goes, my intention was always to break the cycle and take care of myself. I knew it from very early in my life. I mentioned that I stopped going to therapy for awhile. Two years ago I did start going to counseling again. After having our second child, I realized that I was really struggling and things were getting hard, I felt like I was falling apart inside. I couldn't cope strictly by myself. Last year I was diagnosed as bipolar 2. My counselor knew a bit sooner than when he told me, but I respect his reasoning. When he diagnosed me, he said that he did not tell me right away when he knew, because he knew that I would have been devastated, since he knew I did not want to be like my family. But I am not like my family. I love my family, and they are not bad people, they just needed help. I am the change in the cycle. I wanted better and I am creating better. I want my children to know stability and that mental health is as important as physical health. I am still working at being better every day, I will always have to, that's okay. I am open, I am accepting of myself, I know healing isn't linear. In healing, I have learned forgiveness.

The Khajuraho Group of Monuments is a group of Hindu and Jain temples in Madhya Pradesh, India, about 175 kilometres southeast of Jhansi. They are one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in India. The temples are famous for their nagara-style architectural symbolism and their erotic sculptures.

 

Most Khajuraho temples were built between 950 and 1050 by the Chandela dynasty. Historical records note that the Khajuraho temple site had 85 temples by 12th century, spread over 20 square kilometers. Of these, only about 20 temples have survived, spread over 6 square kilometers. Of the various surviving temples, the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple is decorated with a profusion of sculptures with intricate details, symbolism and expressiveness of ancient Indian art.

 

The Khajuraho group of temples were built together but were dedicated to two religions - namely Hinduism and Jainism - suggesting a tradition of acceptance and respect for diverse religious views among Hindus and Jains.

 

LOCATION

Khajuraho group of monuments are located in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, in Chhatarpur district, about 620 kilometres southeast of New Delhi. The temples are in a small town also known as Khajuraho, with a population of about 20,000 people (2001 Census).

 

Khajuraho is served by Civil Aerodrome Khajuraho (IATA Code: HJR), with services to Delhi, Agra, Varanasi and Mumbai. The site is also linked by Indian Railways service, with the railway station located approximately six kilometres from the monuments entrance.

 

The monuments are about 10 kilometres off the east-west National Highway 75, and about 50 kilometres from the city of Chhatarpur, that is connected to Bhopal - the state capital - by the SW-NE running National Highway 86.

 

HISTORY

The Khajuraho group of monuments was built during the rule of the Rajput Chandela dynasty. The building activity started almost immediately after the rise of their power, throughout their kingdom to be later known as Bundelkhand. Most temples were built during the reigns of the Hindu kings Yashovarman and Dhanga. Yashovarman's legacy is best exhibited by Lakshmana temple. Vishvanatha temple best highlights King Dhanga's reign. The largest and currently most famous surviving temple is Kandariya Mahadeva built in the reign of King Ganda from 1017-1029 CE. The temple inscriptions suggest many of the currently surviving temples were complete between 970 to 1030 CE, with further temples completed during the following decades.

 

The Khajuraho temples were built about 35 miles from the medieval city of Mahoba, the capital of the Chandela dynasty, in the Kalinjar region. In ancient and medieval literature, their kingdom has been referred to as Jijhoti, Jejahoti, Chih-chi-to and Jejakabhukti.

 

Khajuraho was mentioned by Abu Rihan-al-Biruni, the Persian historian who accompanied Mahmud of Ghazni in his raid of Kalinjar in 1022 CE; he mentions Khajuraho as the capital of Jajahuti. The raid was unsuccessful, and a peace accord was reached when the Hindu king agreed to pay a ransom to Mahmud of Ghazni to end the attack and leave.

 

Khajuraho temples were in active use through the end of 12th century. This changed in the 13th century, after the army of Delhi Sultanate, under the command of the Muslim Sultan Qutb-ud-din Aibak, attacked and seized the Chandela kingdom. About a century later, Ibn Battuta, the Moroccan traveller in his memoirs about his stay in India from 1335 to 1342 CE, mentioned visiting Khajuraho temples, calling them “Kajarra” as follows:

 

...near (Khajuraho) temples, which contain idols that have been mutilated by the Moslems, live a number of yogis whose matted locks have grown as long as their bodies. And on account of extreme asceticism they are all yellow in colour. Many Moslems attend these men in order to take lessons (yoga) from them.

— Ibn Battuta, about 1335 CE, Riḥlat Ibn Baṭūṭah, Translated by Arthur Cotterell

 

Central Indian region, where Khajuraho temples are, remained in the control of many different Muslim dynasties from 13th century through the 18th century. In this period, some temples were desecrated, followed by a long period when they were left in neglect. In 1495 CE, for example, Sikandar Lodi’s campaign of temple destruction included Khajuraho. The remoteness and isolation of Khajuraho protected the Hindu and Jain temples from continued destruction by Muslims. Over the centuries, vegetation and forests overgrew, took over the temples.

 

In the 1830s, local Hindus guided a British surveyor, T.S. Burt, to the temples and they were thus rediscovered by the global audience. Alexander Cunningham later reported, few years after the rediscovery, that the temples were secretly in use by yogis and thousands of Hindus would arrive for pilgrimage during Shivaratri celebrated annually in February or March based on a lunar calendar. In 1852, Maisey prepared earliest drawings of the Khajuraho temples.

 

NOMENCLATURE

The name Khajuraho, or Kharjuravāhaka, is derived from ancient Sanskrit (kharjura, खर्जूर means date palm, and vāhaka, वाहक means "one who carries" or bearer). Local legends state that the temples had two golden date-palm trees as their gate (missing when they were rediscovered). Desai states that Kharjuravāhaka also means scorpion bearer, which is another symbolic name for deity Shiva (who wears snakes and scorpion garlands in his fierce form).

 

Cunningham’s nomenclature and systematic documentation work in 1850s and 1860s have been widely adopted and continue to be in use. He grouped the temples into the Western group around Lakshmana, Eastern group around Javeri, and Southern group around Duladeva.

 

Khajuraho is one of the four holy sites linked to deity Shiva (the other three are Kedarnath, Kashi and Gaya). Its origin and design is a subject of scholarly studies. Shobita Punja has proposed that the temple’s origin reflect the Hindu mythology in which Khajuraho is the place where Shiva got married; with Raghuvamsha verse 5.53, Matangeshvara honoring ‘’Matanga’’, or god of love.

 

DESCRIPTION

The temple site is within Vindhya mountain range in central India. An ancient local legend held that Hindu deity Shiva and other gods enjoyed visiting the dramatic hill formation in Kalinjar area. The center of this region is Khajuraho, set midst local hills and rivers. The temple complex reflects the ancient Hindu tradition of building temples where gods love to play.

 

The temples are clustered near water, another typical feature of Hindu temples. The current water bodies include Sib Sagar, Khajur Sagar (also called Ninora Tal) and Khudar Nadi (river). The local legends state that the temple complex had 64 water bodies, of which 56 have been physically identified by archeologists so far.

 

All temples, except one (Chaturbhuja) face sunrise - another symbolic feature that is predominant in Hindu temples. The relative layout of temples integrate masculine and feminine deities and symbols highlight the interdependence. The art work symbolically highlight the four goals of life considered necessary and proper in Hinduism - dharma, kama, artha and moksha.

 

Of the surviving temples, 6 are dedicated to Shiva and his consorts, 8 to Vishnu and his affinities, 1 to Ganesha, 1 to Sun god, 3 to Jain Tirthanks. For some ruins, there is insufficient evidence to assign the temple to specific deities with confidence.

 

An overall examination of site suggests that the Hindu symbolic mandala design principle of square and circles is present each temple plan and design. Further, the territory is laid out in three triangles that converge to form a pentagon. Scholars suggest that this reflects the Hindu symbolism for three realms or trilokinatha, and five cosmic substances or panchbhuteshvara. The temple site highlights Shiva, the one who destroys and recycles life, thereby controlling the cosmic dance of time, evolution and dissolution. The temples have a rich display of intricately carved statues. While they are famous for their erotic sculpture, sexual themes cover less than 10% of the temple sculpture. Further, most erotic scene panels are neither prominent nor emphasized at the expense of the rest, rather they are in proportional balance with the non-sexual images. The viewer has to look closely to find them, or be directed by a guide. The arts cover numerous aspects of human life and values considered important in Hindu pantheon. Further, the images are arranged in a configuration to express central ideas of Hinduism. All three ideas from Āgamas are richly expressed in Khajuraho temples - Avyakta, Vyaktavyakta and Vyakta.

 

The Beejamandal temple is under excavation. It has been identified with the Vaidyanath temple mentioned in the Grahpati Kokalla inscription.

 

Of all temples, the Matangeshvara temple remains an active site of worship. It is another square grid temple, with a large 2.5 metres high and 1.1 metres diameter lingam, placed on a 7.6 metres diameter platform.

 

The most visited temple, Kandariya Mahadev, has an area of about 6,500 square feet and a shikhara (spire) that rises 116 feet. Jain templesThe Jain temples are located on east-southeast region of Khajuraho monuments. Chausath jogini temple features 64 jogini, while Ghantai temple features bells sculptured on its pillars.

 

ARCHITECTURE OF THE TEMPLES

Khajuraho temples, like almost all Hindu temple designs, follow a grid geometrical design called vastu-purusha-mandala. This design plan has three important components - Mandala means circle, Purusha is universal essence at the core of Hindu tradition, while Vastu means the dwelling structure.

 

The design lays out a Hindu temple in a symmetrical, concentrically layered, self-repeating structure around the core of the temple called garbhagriya, where the abstract principle Purusha and the primary deity of the temple dwell. The shikhara, or spire, of the temple rises above the garbhagriya. This symmetry and structure in design is derived from central beliefs, myths, cardinality and mathematical principles.

 

The circle of mandala circumscribe the square. The square is considered divine for its perfection and as a symbolic product of knowledge and human thought, while circle is considered earthly, human and observed in everyday life (moon, sun, horizon, water drop, rainbow). Each supports the other. The square is divided into perfect 64 sub-squares called padas.

 

Most Khajuraho temples deploy the 8x8 padas grid Manduka Vastupurushamandala, with pitha mandala the square grid incorporated in the design of the spires. The primary deity or lingas are located in the grid’s Brahma padas.

The architecture is symbolic and reflects the central Hindu beliefs through its form, structure and arrangement of its parts. The mandapas as well as the arts are arranged in the Khajuraho temples in a symmetric repeating patterns, even though each image or sculpture is distinctive in its own way. The relative placement of the images are not random but together they express ideas, just like connected words form sentences and paragraphs to compose ideas. This fractal pattern that is common in Hindu temples. Various statues and panels have inscriptions. Many of the inscriptions on the temple walls are poems with double meanings, something that the complex structure of Sanskrit allows in creative compositions. All Khajuraho temples, except one, face sunrise, and the entrance for the devotee is this east side.Above the vastu-purusha-mandala of each temple is a superstructure with a dome called Shikhara (or Vimana, Spire). Variations in spire design come from variation in degrees turned for the squares. The temple Shikhara, in some literature, is linked to mount Kailash or Meru, the mythical abode of the gods.In each temple, the central space typically is surrounded by an ambulatory for the pilgrim to walk around and ritually circumambulate the Purusa and the main deity. The pillars, walls and ceilings around the space, as well as outside have highly ornate carvings or images of the four just and necessary pursuits of life - kama, artha, dharma and moksa. This clockwise walk around is called pradakshina. Larger Khajuraho temples also have pillared halls called mandapa. One near the entrance, on the east side, serves as the waiting room for pilgrims and devotees. The mandapas are also arranged by principles of symmetry, grids and mathematical precision. This use of same underlying architectural principle is common in Hindu temples found all over India. Each Khajuraho temple is distinctly carved yet also repeating the central common principles in almost all Hindu temples, one which Susan Lewandowski refers to as “an organism of repeating cells”.

 

CONSTRUCTION

The temples are grouped into three geographical divisions: western, eastern and southern.

 

The Khajuraho temples are made of sandstone, with a granite foundation that is almost concealed from view. The builders didn't use mortar: the stones were put together with mortise and tenon joints and they were held in place by gravity. This form of construction requires very precise joints. The columns and architraves were built with megaliths that weighed up to 20 tons. Some repair work in the 19th Century was done with brick and mortar; however these have aged faster than original materials and darkened with time, thereby seeming out of place.

 

The Khajuraho and Kalinjar region is home to superior quality of sandstone, which can be precision carved. The surviving sculpture reflect fine details such as strands of hair, manicured nails and intricate jewelry.

 

While recording the television show Lost Worlds (History Channel) at Khajuraho, Alex Evans recreated a stone sculpture under 4 feet that took about 60 days to carve in an attempt to develop a rough idea how much work must have been involved. Roger Hopkins and Mark Lehner also conducted experiments to quarry limestone which took 12 quarrymen 22 days to quarry about 400 tons of stone. They concluded that these temples would have required hundreds of highly trained sculptors.

 

CHRONOLOGY

The Khajuraho group of temples belong to Vaishnavism school of Hinduism, Saivism school of Hinduism and Jainism - nearly a third each. Archaeological studies suggest all three types of temples were under construction at about the same time in late 10th century, and in use simultaneously. Will Durant states that this aspect of Khajuraho temples illustrates the tolerance and respect for different religious viewpoints in the Hindu and Jain traditions. In each group of Khajuraho temples, there were major temples surrounded by smaller temples - a grid style that is observed to varying degrees in Hindu temples in Angkor Wat, Parambaran and South India.

 

The largest surviving Saiva temple is Khandarya Mahadeva, while the largest surviving Vaishnava group includes Chaturbhuja and Ramachandra.

 

Kandariya Mahadeva Temple plan is 109 ft in length by 60 ft, and rises 116 ft above ground and 88 ft above its own floor. The central padas are surrounded by three rows of sculptured figures, with over 870 statues, most being half life size (2.5 to 3 feet). The spire is a self repeating fractal structure.

 

ARTS AND SCULPTURE

The Khajuraho temples feature a variety of art work, of which 10% is sexual or erotic art outside and inside the temples. Some of the temples that have two layers of walls have small erotic carvings on the outside of the inner wall. Some scholars suggest these to be tantric sexual practices. Other scholars state that the erotic arts are part of Hindu tradition of treating kama as an essential and proper part of human life, and its symbolic or explicit display is common in Hindu temples. James McConnachie, in his history of the Kamasutra, describes the sexual-themed Khajuraho sculptures as "the apogee of erotic art": "Twisting, broad-hipped and high breasted nymphs display their generously contoured and bejewelled bodies on exquisitely worked exterior wall panels. These fleshy apsaras run riot across the surface of the stone, putting on make-up, washing their hair, playing games, dancing, and endlessly knotting and unknotting their girdles....Beside the heavenly nymphs are serried ranks of griffins, guardian deities and, most notoriously, extravagantly interlocked maithunas, or lovemaking couples."

 

The temples have several thousand statues and art works, with Kandarya Mahadeva Temple alone decorated with over 870. Some 10% of these iconographic carvings contain sexual themes and various sexual poses. A common misconception is that, since the old structures with carvings in Khajuraho are temples, the carvings depict sex between deities; however the kama arts represent diverse sexual expressions of different human beings. The vast majority of arts depict various aspects the everyday life, mythical stories as well as symbolic display of various secular and spiritual values important in Hindu tradition. For example, depictions show women putting on makeup, musicians making music, potters, farmers, and other folks in their daily life during the medieval era. These scenes are in the outer padas as is typical in Hindu temples.

 

There is iconographic symbolism embedded in the arts displayed in Khajuraho temples. Core Hindu values are expressed in multitude of ways. Even the Kama scenes, when seen in combination of sculptures that precede and follow, depict the spiritual themes such as moksha. In the words of Stella Kramrisch,

 

This state which is “like a man and woman in close embrace” is a symbol of moksa, final release or reunion of two principles, the essence (Purusha) and the nature (Prakriti).

— Stella Kramrisch, 1976

 

The Khajuraho temples represent one expression of many forms of arts that flourished in Rajput kingdoms of India from 8th through 10th century CE. For example, contemporary with Khajuraho were the publications of poems and drama such as Prabodhacandrodaya, Karpuramanjari, Viddhasalabhanjika and Kavyamimansa. Some of the themes expressed in these literary works are carved as sculpture in Khajuraho temples. Some sculptures at the Khajuraho monuments dedicated to Vishnu include the Vyalas, which are hybrid imaginary animals with lions body, and are found in other Indian temples. Some of these hybrid mythical art work include Vrik Vyala (hybrid of wolf and lion) and Gaja Vyala (hybrid of elephant and lion). These Vyalas may represent syncretic, creative combination of powers innate in the two.

 

TOURISM AND CULTURAL EVENTS

The temples in Khajuraho are broadly divided into three parts: the Eastern group, the Southern Group and the Western group of temples of which the Western group alone has the facility of an Audio guided tour wherein the tourists are guided through the seven eight temples. There is also an audio guided tour developed by the Archaeological Survey of India which includes a narration of the temple history and architecture.

 

The Khajuraho Dance Festival is held every year in February. It features various classical Indian dances set against the backdrop of the Chitragupta or Vishwanath Temples.

 

The Khajuraho temple complex offers a light and sound show every evening. The first show is in English language and the second one in Hindi. It is held in the open lawns in the temple complex, and has received mixed reviews.

 

The Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development has set up kiosks at the Khajuraho railway station, with tourist officers to provide information for Khajuraho visitors.

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Der Tempelbezirk von Khajuraho umfasst eine Gruppe von etwa 20 Tempeln im Zentrum und in der näheren Umgebung der Stadt Khajuraho im indischen Bundesstaat Madhya Pradesh. Sie zählen zum UNESCO-Welterbe.

 

GESCHICHTE

Nahezu alle Tempel Khajurahos wurde von den Herrschern der Chandella-Dynastie zwischen 950 und 1120 erbaut. Die Chandellas waren ein zwischen dem 10. und 16. Jahrhundert regierender Rajputen-Klan, welcher sich um 950 in Gwalior festsetzte. Im 10. und 11. Jahrhundert waren die Chandellas die führende Macht in Nordindien, wenngleich sie formell noch bis 1018 Vasallen der Pratihara waren.

 

Nach dem Niedergang der Dynastie im 12. Jahrhundert wurden die Tempel kaum noch oder gar nicht mehr benutzt und blieben dem Wuchs des Dschungels überlassen. Der politisch, militärisch und wirtschaftlich bedeutungslos gewordene Ort lag abseits aller Wege und blieb somit auch in der Zeit des islamischen Vordringens in Nordindien von Zerstörungen verschont. Im 18. und 19. Jahrhundert zählte die einstmals bedeutsame Stadt nur noch etwa 300 Einwohner. Im 19. Jahrhundert wurden die Tempel von den Briten 'wiederentdeckt'. Zu Beginn des 20. Jahrhunderts begannen systematische Sicherungs- und Restaurierungsarbeiten, die schließlich zur Wiederherstellung dieses einzigartigen Architektur-Ensembles führten.

 

TEMPEL

Ursprünglich gab es in Khajuraho etwa 80 Tempelbauten verstreut auf einer Gesamtfläche von ca. 21 Quadratkilometer, heutzutage sind davon nur noch etwa 20 erhalten, von denen die meisten in zwei Gruppen stehen. Die Mehrzahl der Tempel ist den hinduistischen Hauptgöttern geweiht, einige den Jaina-Tirthankaras. Buddhistische Bauten gab es wohl nicht, jedenfalls wurden keine buddhistischen Skulpturen entdeckt.

 

Alle Tempel stehen auf 1,50 bis 3 Meter hohen Plattformen (jagatis), die das Bauwerk vor Witterungseinflüssen (Monsunregen) und freilaufenden Tieren schützten. Hinzu kommt eine Sockelzone, die bei den späteren Tempeln (ab ca. 950) mehrfach gestuft ist und durchaus nochmals 3 Meter hoch sein kann. Plattform und Sockel tragen natürlich auch zu einer 'Erhöhung' des aufstehenden Bauwerks im übertragenen Sinn bei.

 

Die Mehrzahl der Tempeleingänge sind nach Osten, also in Richtung der aufgehenden Sonne ausgerichtet, d. h. die Cella (garbhagriha) liegt im Westen. Bei zwei Tempeln ist es umgekehrt: sie orientieren sich nach Westen, d. h. in Richtung der untergehenden Sonne (Lalguan-Mahadeva-Tempel und Chaturbuja-Tempel). Beide Ausrichtungen sind bei indischen Tempeln seit Jahrhunderten möglich und üblich. Die vorderen zwei Begleitschreine des Lakshmana-Tempels liegen einander gegenüber und sind nach Süden bzw. Norden ausgerichtet.

 

WESTGRUPPE (Hindu-Tempel)

- Matangeshvara-Tempel (ca. 950)

- Varaha-Tempel (ca. 950)

- Lakshmana-Tempel (ca. 950)

- Devi-Tempel

- Vishvanatha-Tempel (ca. 1000)

- Nandi-Schrein

- Parvati-Schrein

- Jagadambi-Tempel

- Chitragupta-Tempel

- Kandariya-Mahadeva-Tempel (1. Hälfte 11. Jh.)

 

OSTGRUPPE (Jain-Tempel)

- Parsvanatha-Tempel (ca. 960)

- Adinatha-Tempel (ca. 1050)

- Shantinatha-Tempel

- Ghantai-Tempel (ca. 990)

 

EINZELTEMPEL (Hindu-Tempel)

- Chausath-Yogini-Tempel (ca. 875)

- Lalguan-Mahadeva-Tempel (ca. 920)

- Brahma-Tempel (ca. 930)

- Khakra-Math-Tempel (ca. 980)

- Vamana-Tempel (ca. 1050)

- Javari-Tempel (ca. 1100)

- Chaturbuja-Tempel (ca. 1120)

- Duladeo-Tempel (ca. 1120)

 

ARCHITEKTUR

Die Tempel von Khajuraho bieten die Möglichkeit, auf engstem Raum die Entwicklung der indischen Baukunst in einer Zeitspanne von etwa 200 Jahren zu verfolgen − von kleinen (wenig gegliederten, einräumigen und geschlossenen) Tempeln hin zu großen (stark gegliederten, mehrräumigen und offenen) Bauten. Auch die Höhe der Bauten erfährt während dieser Zeit eine enorme Steigerung. Gemeinsam ist nahezu allen Bauten (Ausnahme: Chausath-Yogini-Tempel), dass sie über Dachaufbauten (Shikhara-Türme oder Pyramidendächer) verfügen, die von gerippten amalaka-Steinen und kalasha-Krügen bekrönt werden.

 

FRÜHZEIT

Abgesehen vom Chausath-Yogini-Tempel, dem ältesten und vollkommen anderen baulichen Traditionen verpflichteten Tempelbau in Khajuraho, bestehen die frühen Tempel nur aus einer − von einem gestuften Pyramidendach bedeckten − Cella (garbhagriha), der im Fall des Brahma-Tempels noch ein Portalvorbau (antarala), im Fall des Varaha-Tempels und des Matangesvara-Tempels jeweils ein kleiner offener Vorraum (mandapa) vorgesetzt ist. Die Außenwände sind nur geringfügig gegliedert und überwiegend steinsichtig.

 

BLÜHTZEIT

Die Blütezeit der Tempelarchitektur in Khajuraho beginnt mit dem Lakshmana-Tempel (ca. 930−950), der wahrscheinlich vom Maladevi-Tempel in Gyaraspur und von früheren Tempelbauten in Rajasthan beeinflusst ist, die ihrerseits wiederum allesamt auf die beim Bau des Kalika-Mata-Tempels in Chittorgarh (ca. 700) erstmals entwickelten baulichen Innovationen zurückgeführt werden können. Diese sind im Wesentlichen: mehrere hintereinander liegende, aber harmonisch miteinander verbundenen Bauteile (mandapas, antarala und garbhagriha); gleiche Grundfläche von großer Vorhalle (mahamandapa) und Sanktumsbereich; Cella als eigenständiger Baukörper im Innern; Pfeiler − und nicht mehr Wände − als tragende Stützelemente für die Dachaufbauten − dadurch wurde es möglich, die Räume nach außen hin durch balkonähnliche Vorbauten zu öffnen; mehrfache Abstufung und Gliederung der verbliebenen Wandteile außen wie innen − dadurch treten sie gar nicht mehr als 'Wand' in Erscheinung; Fortsetzung der Außenwandgliederung im Dachaufbau.

 

Beim Lakshmana-Tempel ist die Cella als eigener, innenliegender Baukörper gestaltet und von einem Umgang (pradakshinapatha) umgeben. Der gesamte Sanktumsbereich sowie seine vier Nebenschreine werden − erstmals in Khajuraho − von steil und hoch aufragenden Shikhara-Türmen überhöht; die weniger wichtigen Vorhallen werden auch weiterhin von den insgesamt flacheren, pyramidenförmigen Dächern bedeckt, so dass eine architektonische Steigerung der Tempel − einem Gebirge durchaus vergleichbar − hin zur Cella erreicht wird.

 

Die wichtigsten Nachfolgebauten des Lakshmana-Tempels sind der Vishvanatha-Tempel (ca. 1000) und der Kandariya-Mahadeva-Tempel (ca. 1050), bei denen wegen der vielfältigen architektonischen Gliederungen und des dichten Skulpturenprogramms eine Stein- bzw. Wandsichtigkeit nicht mehr wahrzunehmen ist.

 

SKULPTUREN

Auch im Hinblick auf die Entwicklung der indischen Skulptur bieten die Tempel von Khajuraho einen Überblick über ca. 200 Jahre indischer Kunstgeschichte − von den in Architekturelemente eingebundenen und eher unbewegt und statisch erscheinenden Reliefdarstellungen der Frühzeit bis hin zu den beinahe freiplastisch gearbeiteten und durch ihre Posenvielfalt nahezu lebendig wirkenden Figuren.

 

FRÜHZEITLICHE SKULPTUREN

Die nur wenig gegliederten Außenwände der frühen Tempel von Khajuraho zeigen kaum figürlichen oder ornamentalen Schmuck. Dieser ist, noch stark reliefgebunden, auf die Portale (Lalguan-Mahadeva-Tempel, Brahma-Tempel) sowie auf einige Fensternischen (Matangeshvara-Tempel) beschränkt. Erotische Skulpturen sind in den frühen Tempeln noch nicht zu finden.

 

SKULPTUREN DER BLÜHTEZEIT

Auch hier ist es der Lakshmana-Tempel, der für Khajuraho neue Zeichen setzt: Während die Außenwände der Vorhallen nur wenig figürliche Reliefs zeigen, sind die Wände des Sanktums überreich mit Skulpturen geschmückt. Darunter finden sich Götterfiguren (devas oder devis), „schöne Mädchen“ (surasundaris) und Liebespaare (mithunas); auch die ersten erotischen Skulpturen sind in den unteren (erdnahen) Feldern der Mittelregister sowie im Figurenfries der Plattform zu sehen. Die mittleren Felder zeigen dagegen zärtliche Liebespaare mit kleineren Begleitfiguren, die oberen Götterfiguren. Eine Hierarchie der Figurenanordnung ist also deutlich wahrnehmbar. Bei den unmittelbaren Nachfolgebauten (Vishvanatha-Tempel, Jagadambi-Tempel und Kandariya-Mahadeva-Tempel) nimmt die Anzahl der Figuren und somit auch der erotischen Darstellungen zu.

 

Bei den Jain-Tempeln und den späteren Hindu-Tempeln sind kaum noch erotisch-sexuelle Darstellungen zu finden; hier überwiegt die Anzahl der Götterfiguren manchmal sogar die der „schönen Mädchen“.

 

ARCHÄOLOGISCHES MUSEUM

Zu den Sehenswürdigkeiten im Bereich des Tempelbezirks von Khajuraho gehört auch das im Ortskern gelegene Archäologische Museum (auch Rani Durgavati-Museum genannt). Es beherbergt einige sehr schöne Skulpturen, die im Rahmen der Ausgrabungs- und Restaurierungsarbeiten gefunden und hierher verbracht wurden, weil sie keinem der erhaltenen Tempelbauten direkt zuzuordnen waren.

 

WIKIPEDIA

An unidentified BUT sets departs from Lisburn with a Portadown - Great Victoria Street, Belfast working - probably in March 1971.

 

All photographs are my copyright and must not be used without permission. Unauthorised use will result in my invoicing you £1,500 per photograph and, if necessary, taking legal action for recovery.

But this is about as busy as it should be in the current situation.

But this is actually central London this month, And that canal is situated immediately outside a side entrance of Paddington Station, one of the busiest stations in the capital.

 

If you are old enough you may remember stories of the Provos of Amsterdam. They were kind of radical hippies or anarchists who occupied empty buildings all over the city and even an old ship in the harbour! . The Provos had many radical ideas and plans based on green and left leaning principles. One plan which they actually instigated was to place white painted bicycles all over the city for people to use freely and then leave somewhere for the next user. It did work for a while but one by one the bicycles mysteriously began to vanish.

But a shred of the bonkers garden some chap (has to be though) has put together in Teguise on Lanzarote.

I'm usually not one to dump a whole shoot onto flickr, but I wanted to get all these into a set for them to view easily as a slideshow, etc.

I was last here on a cold and grey day at the beginning or March.

 

Graveney stretches along the road, but All Saints sits on a quiet bend, and felt wonderfully isolated.

 

And not at all friendly, I have to say. It was locked, as expected, so I took aome outside shots and we moved on eatwards, but somehow I really wanted to see inside here, just to see if it could be warmer than it felt on that March morning.

 

I parked beside the road, I saw the door of the porch open, and a light filled space beyond.

 

Looked good....

 

The church was a hive of activity, with some people getting a table-top sale ready, others boiling the kettle and unpacking cakes for refreshments, whilst two others greeted me, and I was given my own tour.

 

Nooks and crannies everywhere, including an alcove in the north chapel, which must have held a figure, now as an artwork of the cross made my medieval nails found during restoration work.

 

Two panels of the original rood screen were still inside, though hidden away, and one had rings of concentric circles, to confuse the devil, I was told.

 

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The Victorians did not leave too much of a mark here, for the mellow red tiles, box pews and ledger slabs remain. There is a heavy medieval rood screen and the empty north and south aisles allow us to appreciate the building as it might originally have appeared. In the north aisle is a memorial brass to John Martyn (d. 1436) with cathedral-like proportions, being over 56 in long.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Graveney

 

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GRAVENEY

LIES the next parish north-westward from Hernehill. It was called in the time of the Saxons, Graven-ea, and afterwards, by corruption of language, Gravenel, in like manner as Oxney, Pevensey, and Rumency, were corruptly called Oxenel, Pevensel, and Rumenel; (fn. 1) the name of it denoting its low and watery situation, and it is now, by contraction, usually called Grainey.

 

IT LIES about two miles from the high London road, on the north side of it, at the 48th mile-stone, the parish of Goodnestone intervening, in a low country adjoining the marshes, of which there is a large quantity, both fresh and salt within it, Faversham creek and the Swale being the western and northern boundaries of it. The soil of it various, there being in the level part some rich tillage land, and on the rises or small hills in it, a light soil of both sand and gravel. The church stands in the eastern part of the parish, having Graveneycourt, with an antient gateway, and numerous offices, singularly built round it, well worth observation, as denoting its former respectable state. In the western part is Nagdon, adjoining to Faversham creck, having a decoy for wild fowl, and a large quantity of marsh land belonging to it. There is but little thoroughfare here, and no village, the houses being interspersed straggling throughout it. Upon the whole though unhealthy, it has not an unpleasant aspect, being well cloathed with trees, especially elm, which are very thriving here, and in great plenty; the roads are remarkably well taken care of, as are the poor, and the whole parish seems to thrive well under the care of the inhabitants of Graveney-court. There are some parts of this parish separated from the rest by those of Faversham and Goodneston intervening.

 

There are several scarce plants observed by Mr. Jacob in this parish, and enumerated in this Plantæ Favershamienses.

 

THE ARCHBISHOP'S paramount manor of Boughton claims over the whole of this parish, as being within that hundred, subordinate to which is the manor of Graveney.

 

In the year 811, Wlfred, archbishop of Canterbury, purchased this place of Cenulph, king of Mercia, who had made the kingdom of Kent tributary to him, for the use of Christ-church, Canterbury, as appears by the leiger book of that priory, and that it was given L. S. A. that is, Libere Sicut Adisham, with the same liberties, immunities, and privileges that Adisham was. Soon after which, one Werhard, a powerful priest, and kinsman to the archbishop, found means to gain possession of it, and kept it till that prelate's death in 830, when Feogild succeeding to the see of Canterbury, though he sat in it but three months, yet in that time he compelled Werhard to restore Gravene then computed at thirty-two hides of land, to the church; and it was afterwards confirmed to it in anno 941, by king Edmund, Eadred his brother, and Edwyn son of the latter; (fn. 2) and it remained part of the revenues of Christchurch at the coming of archbishop Lanfranc to that see in 1070, when on his division of them, between himself and the monks of his church, this manor fell to his share, of whom it was afterwards held by knight's service. In which state it continued at the time of taking the survey of Domesday, anno 1080, in which it is thus entered, under the general title of Terra Militum Archiepi, that is, land held of the archbishop by knight's service.

 

In Boltune hundred the same Richard (who owed fealty to the archbishop) held of the archbishop Gravenel. It was taxed for one suling. The arable land is. In demesne there is one carucate, and eight villeins, with ten borderers having two carucates. There are five servants, and ten acres of meadow, and four saltpits of four shillings. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, and afterwards, it was worth one hundred shillings, now six pounds, of these the monks of Canterbury have twenty shillings.

 

Who this Richard was I do not find, though Somner calls him Ricardus Constabularius; however, it is not improbable, but he might afterwards adopt the surname of Gravene, from his having the possession of this place; certain it is, that it was afterwards held by a family who took their name from it. William de Gravene held it in the reign of king Henry III. of the archbishop, as one knight's fee. John de Gravene died possessed of it in the 56th year of the same reign, after which it became the property of the family of Feversham.

 

Thomas de Feversham died possessed of it in the beginning of the reign of king Edward III. leaving Joane his wife surviving, and in the window of the north chancel were formerly the arms of Feversham, A fess chequy, or, and gules, between six crosses, bottony, or; and underneath, Thomas Feversham, susticiar, & Johanna Uxor. ejus; on the pavement is a stone with two half-figures in brass for them, with an inscription round it in old French, part of which is gone; probably that which Weever mentions. (fn. 3) She afterwards entitled her second husband Sir Roger de Northwood to this manor, during her life; accordingly he paid aid for it in the 20th year of that reign, as one knight's see, which he held in right of his wife, of the archbishop, which was formerly held by Richard de Gravene. After her death her son Richard de Feversham succeeded to this manor, of which he died possessed in 1381, and was buried in this church, having married the daughter of Robert Dodde. His tomb, of Bethersden marble, remains against the south wall. In the south chancel, on the top, were two figures, and four coats of arms, the brasses gone; round the edge is this inscription, in brass, Ora pro aibs Roberti Dodde & Rici de Feuersham filii sui quonda dni de Gravene obiit, &c. Above the tomb, is a recess in the wall, with an antient carved arch above it. He had a daughter Joane, who became his heir, and married John Botiller, esq. and in her right became entitled to this manor, she died in 1408, and was buried in the south chancel here, her figure in brass on her gravestone is gone, but the inscription still remains. By her he had a son of his own name. Either he or his father was sheriff anno 22 king Richard II. John Botiller, esq the son, was knight of the shire in the 1st year of king Henry V.'s reign. They bore for their arms, Sable, three covered cups, or, within a bordure, argent; and John Botiller, probably the father, was esquire to archbishop Courtney, and mentioned in his will, proved anno 1396, being the 20th of Richard II.

 

There is a gravestone in the south chancel here, which most probably was for John Botiller the son; on it was his figure in brass, now gone, and four coats of arms; the two first are gone, the third Botiller, the fourth Feversham, a fess chequy, between six crosses, bottony, or. The inscription was remaining in Weever's time. This stone, I am informed, was some years ago removed out of the north chancel hither, and in the window of this chancel is this coat of arms, quarterly, first, Botiller, as above; second and third, a fess chequy, or, and gules, in chief three crosses, bottony, or; the bottom part being broken, the fourth is likewise broken. Underneath are these words remaining, Johes er, & Jonna ux ejs. Joane his wife was daughter and heir of William de Frogenhall, by whom he had a daughter and sole heir Anne, who carried it in marriage to John Martyn, judge of the common pleas, the son of Richard Martyn, of Stonebridge, who built much at his seat of Graveney court, where he partly resided. (fn. 4) He died in 1436, leaving his widow surviving, who then became again possessed of this manor in her own right. She afterwards married Thomas Burgeys, esq. whom she likewise survived, and dying in 1458 was buried beside her first husband in the north chancel of this church. His gravestone is of a very large size, and is most richly inlaid with brass, which is well preserved, having the figures of him and his wife, and other ornaments over the whole of it. There were four coats of arms, only the second of which, that of Boteler, is remaining. He bore for his arms, Argent, on a chevron, gules, three talbot bounds, passant, or. Her second husband Thomas Burgeys died in 1452, and was buried in the same chancel, where his gravestone remained till within these few years. At the upper end of the stone are two coats in brass, first Boteler impaling Frogenhall; second, a fess chequy impaling the like. Another coat, at the bottom, is gone, as is his figure.

 

In the descendants of Judge Martyn, residents at Graveney-court, this manor continued down to Robert Martyn, who likewise resided here, and died in the first year of Edward VI. (fn. 5) leaving his two daughters, Joane, married to Richard Argall, and Elizabeth to Stephen Reames, of Faversham, his coheirs. From them this manor was passed away by sale to John Pordage, of Rodmersham, in whose name it continued till it was at length sold to Daniel Whyte, esq. of Vinters, in Boxley, whose descendant of the same name, about the beginning of king George II.'s reign, alienated it to Mr. Edward Blaxland, who afterwards resided here, and bore for his arms, on a fess, three falcous volant, jessed and belled. He died in 1739. This occasioned this manor to be separated in several divisions and again afterwards in further subdivisions, among his descendants, in which state it now remains; but those of the male line of the name of Blaxland, still continue to reside at it. From the beginning of the last century to the middle of it, the Napletons, a family of good account in these parts of the county, were lessees of Graveney-court, and resided at it; and from that time to the latter end of it, the Houghhams were occupiers of it, and resided here. Many of both families lie buried in this church, as do all the Blaxlands, since their coming to the possession of this estate.

 

NAGDEN, formerly spelt Negdon, is a noted estate in the north-west part of this parish, consisting mostly of marsh land, which was once part of the endowment of the abbey of Faversham, and continued amongst the revenues of it till its final dissolution in the 30th year of Henry VIII. at which time it was valued at eight pounds per annum.

 

This estate thus coming into the hands of the crown, was granted by the king next year to Sir Thomas Cheney, lord warden, to hold in capite, who alienated it, in the 36th year of that reign, to Robert Martyn, of Graveney-court, who died in the first year of king Edward VI. (fn. 6) leaving his two daughters his coheirs, Joane, married to Richard Argall, and Elizabeth to Stephen Reames, who jointly possessed this estate. After which both these moieties seem to have been conveyed to Ciriac Petit, of Colkins, in this neighbourhood, who died possessed of the entire see of it in 1591, and in his descendants it continued down to Mr. William Petit, who in 1709 conveyed it by sale to dame Sarah Barrett, of Lee, widow, who died in 1711, upon which this estate came to her only son by her first husband, Sir Francis Head, bart. who died possessed of it in 1716. (fn. 7) He left four sons, who became entitled to this estate on their father's death, as coheirs in gavelkind. On the death of the eldest Sir Richard Head, bart. in 1721, his share devolved to his three brothers. James Head, esq. died afterwards intestate in 1727, and unmarried, on which Sir Francis Head, bart. and John Head, D. D. became possessed of it in undivided moieties, and the latter that same year conveyed his moiety of it to the former, who in 1745 sold the entire fee of it to John Smith, esq. of Faversham, who has since conveyed it to his son, John Smith, junior, esq. of Ospringe, the present possessor of it. The estate of Nagden pays nine shillings per annum, on Lammas day, to the vicar of Graveney, in lieu of tithes.

 

Charities.

On a tablet in the church, the benefactions of several pieces of land are recorded, amounting in the whole to upwards of four acres. These are put up as benefactions to the church; but by the information of the clerk, they belonged to the poor, to whom the yearly produce of them was distributed till of late. It is now applied to the repairs of the church.

 

The poor constantly relieved are about ten, casually 25.

 

GRAVENEY is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Ospringe.

 

The church is dedicated to All Saints, and consists of three isles and a high chancel, and two side ones formerly called chapels, the south one being dedicated to St. John, and the north one to the Virgin Mary. The steeple, which is a tower, stands at the north-west corner. In it are three bells. The antient gravestones in this church have been removed from where they originally laid, to make room for the present ones. Thus that of John Martyn, as I am informed, has been removed out of the north into the south chancel. In this north chancel they have been likewise still further displaced; there are now two rows of gravestones in it, lying three and three. In the west row are now, the first southward, Judge Martyn's; the second, Mr. Edward Blaxland's, who died in 1739; and the third, Thomas Burgeys, esq. For the making room for Mr. E. Blaxland's, Judge Martyn's stone was removed from the middle or second place to the first, where before his son's lay, till removed to the south chancel. This practice, of disturbing the ashes of the dead, as is but too frequent in churches of late, calls loudly for some authority to prevent it in future.

 

The church of Graveney, with the advowson of the vicarage, was in very early times part of the possessions of the priory of St. Mary Overies, in Southwark, with which it continued till the final dissolution of it in the 31st year of king Henry VIII. when it came into the hands of the crown, together with all the revenues and estates belonging to it.

 

The parsonage remained in the crown some years longer than the advowson of the vicarage, as will be mentioned hereafter, that is, till the 3d year of queen Elizabeth, when the queen granted this rectory, being then valued at 7l. 6s. 8d. yearly rent, to archbishop Parker and his successors, in exchange for other premises. (fn. 8) Since which it has continued part of the possessions of the see of Canterbury to this time.

 

This parsonage has been from time to time demised on a beneficial lease, at the above yearly rent. In 1643 Mrs. Elizabeth Robinson, widow, was tenant of it. John Baker, esq. of St. Stephen's, near Canterbury, is the present lessee of it.

 

But the advowson of the vicarage did not continue so long in the crown, for it was granted, among others, in 1558, to the archbishop and his successors, (fn. 9) with whom it now continues, his grace the archbishop being now patron of it.

 

This vicarage is valued in the king's books at fifty pounds, and the yearly tenths at 1l. 4s. per annum. In 1578 there were communicants here ninety. In 1640 the communicants were sixty-five, and it was valued at sixty pounds per annum.

 

In the year 1244 archbishop Boniface, on the presentation of the prior and convent of St. Mary Overies, as appears by an antient book belonging to it, instituted Ralph, the curate of Gravene, to the perpetual vicarage of this parish, so that he should receive and take in the name of it, all fruits and oblations, with all other things belonging to the church, excepting two sheaves of the tithe, and should take the same to his own use.

 

In the same manuscript, on a dispute between the prior and convent, rectors of this church, and Richard, lord of Gravenel, concerning tithes in this parish, it was decreed in 1283, before the rural dean of Ofpringe, that the vicar should receive, in the name of the religious, as well as in his own right, all tithes arising in future from the feedings and pastures in his own marshes, called North-marsh and Leved-marsh, which should be paid to him without any cavil or exception. (fn. 10)

 

The vicar has a house and two acres of glebe land.

 

¶The vicarage is worth about fifty pounds per annum. He is entitled, by the above composition, to all tithes, excepting the two sheaves mentioned in it, and by prescription likewise; which third part of the corn tithes is now usually known by the name of the vicar's third sheaf. But the impropriator's lease being for all the tithes of the parish, without any such exception, has occasioned many quarrels and disputes about this third sheaf, which are now entirely subsided, and the vicar is accustomed to take one shock out of every thirty shocks of corn, in right of his vicarage.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol7/pp28-38

But not necessarily in command.

But who will get his attention?

But my Sony's eye detection was like...ummmmmm.....huh?

via Instagram ift.tt/23I4l96 Mermaid hair & #Austin sunshine. Lots of selfies lately, but life is too short to worry about that. :P who wants to go find some rainbow sherbet or a snow cone with me? #rainbow #mermaid #coloredhair #undercut #pastel #sherbert #rainbow

Hi Guys :D

 

So Im kinda new here not really as I did join a couple shows a long time ago but now I'm back and I really want to join lots of FNTMs! IDK if any of you remember me but If you do well thats cool c:

I only watch America's Next Top Model so thats why my all my girls are from ANTM but IDK who and how but someone I guess hacked into my Flickr profile and uploaded a bunch of pictures of some model I never seen in my life xD I guess her name is Hana lol but I kept 2 of the photos the hacker left as I though they where cool :)

 

But anyways if you have any shows I can join or need a replacement can you please comment below ;)

 

Here are all my models!

DOMINIQUE REIGHARD!!= Love her she is my main model and my fave ever ANTM model.

Yaya DaCosta=major shows

Samantha Francis=major shows

Renee Bhagwandeen=maybe major idk yet but for now only minor shows

Monique Weingart=minor shows or maybe major if I get better with her

Michelle Deighton=minor shows

Mariah Watchman=major shows

Lauren Brie Harding=for sure major shows I love her!

Eugena Washington=major shows

Anchal Joseph=maybe major

Caridee English=major shows, I love Cari!

Brooke Staricha=minor shows

Bre Scullark=major shows

Ashley Howard=minor shows

Elyse Sewell=major shows

Kasia Pilewicz=major shows

Lisa Jackson=major shows

Marjorie Conrad=major shows

Mollie Sue Steenis-Gondi=major shows

Natalie Pack=major shows

Rhianna Atwood=major shows

Whitney Thompson=major shows

Anya Kop=major shows

AzMarie Livingston=major shows

Brittany Brower=minor but if i get better with her then major

Camille McDonald=minor due to everyone hating her, she would never make it in a major show

Celia Ammerman=minor because her portfolio is very small ;(

Coryn Woitel=minor for sure because her portfolio is itty bitty.

 

What do you guys think? ;)

Also if you guys have any suggestions on international ntm models that I can use that have a decent portfolio please comment below but yah hopefully I get into a FNTM sooner than later as of right now I'm only in one and that ANTM The Remake with Heather which Im am for sure not winning xD

 

I don't know why but unusual things happen to me very often. My best friend usually say that I'm a "magnet of crazy people"... hahaha

I don't think so but I definitely cannot explain some things. If you have some spare time here goes a tale from today's encounter.

 

I went out to photograph the sunset today but I missed it. Something very special happened instead. =D

For some reason I was drawn to take a new path that I've never been before. I was walking by the river and I started to take pictures when I saw an old lady sitting across the road. I smile at her... I do that a lot. I usually smile to strangers I can't control myself... hahahah I wanted to take her picture but I'm usually very shy to approach people and ask them to take their picture as I said before in other posts. And she waved at me, making a sign for me to come closer. I went there and she started to talk to me straight away... in Portuguese. Don't forget that I'm in London, right? And I haven't said a word.

She said " How are you, dear? Do you come here very often?" and I said " Oh Hi, You are Portuguese (I recognized her accent). I'm Brazilian, nice meeting you!". I sat down beside her and she started talking non-stop. For 45min she told me about her past life in her village in Portugal, about the friends she lost, her struggles, how her brother-in-law used to hit and verbally abuse her all the time and about how much she missed her youngest daughter that stopped calling her years ago. Every time she changed subjects she said "I'm not gonna lie to you... I do lie sometimes but I'm telling you the truth now". hahahaha I haven't said much. Her name is Gracinda. I nodded and tried my best to understand her strong Portuguese accent, which is very different from my Brazilian Portuguese. I realized that she needed someone to talk to... to just listen to her stories. So that's what I did. The sun was already down, it started to get very cold and I was running late so I had to tell her that I needed to go. I wanted to take her picture as I had nothing for today's project but I just couldn't ask. She gave me so much already. She opened her heart, shared her history, cried and even showed me her heart surgery scars. We hugged and while I was holding her hand I said "I think you should call your daughter". She just replied with a very sad face "I'm shy to do that. I don't think I should and I don't like to ask people for favors." And I said "What do you think it's more important: shyness or showing love to your daughter?". She stared at me for some time and said kindly "I think you are an angel. I'm always here. Come and visit me more often." And then she left.

 

I stood there thinking how amazing was that situation. I was drawn to take that path, I met this Portuguese woman in the middle of nowhere, that needed someone to listen in her language, and she gave me such a beautiful gift. I'm not religious but every time someone calls me an angel it fills my heart with joy because I believe I have helped that person somehow. This kind of situation has happened before and it always amazes me how intense these encounters are.

I just hope that she calls her daughter. I really do.... After all, it's never too late to let people know we love them, right?

 

Thanks a lot for all the comments and faves on my pictures, Flickr Friends! Hope you all have a great weekend. =D

 

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Paris

Nothing but greens. Focus stacked using zerene.

Snail on a fence rail

But this is beyond me. Waay beyond me!

The news was that Jools' cough was little better. She got a mail back from the surgery on Friday saying her (non-urgent) appointment with the doctor was on December 14th. But as we were going to Tesco, she would have a chat with the pharmasist and see about some of the behind the counter stuff.

 

Winter has arrived, though no snow as yet, but the wind is set in the east, its cloudy and feels raw outside.

 

I would spend part of the day churchcrawling.

 

After shopping.

 

We go to Tesco, Jools really only coming so she could get something for her cough.

 

With a few bottles of tripel and cider we managed to spend £140. A bag of rice, not white easy cook rice I'll admit, but that's £4.50 now.

 

Wow.

 

Back home with the shopping and a bottle of serious cough syrup, we put the shopping away and have breakfast.

 

No surprise then that Jools wasn't coming out with me, she wanted to get the cough under control, would only take the new syrup when needed as it can make you drowsy.

 

I had a list of churches, and first up was our local one, St Margaret.

 

They were having a craft day. I thought it might be a fayre, but was a kid's craft day. Anyway, the church would be open and I could take shots of the memorials and windows.

 

There were pagan heads at the top of each column, and as corbel stones. The more I looked, the more pagan heads, even at the top of two of the columns, but not all.

 

No real ancient glass, but good quality Victorian.

 

The church itself is the triumph, being an early Norman and well preserved.

 

Although, sadly, the tower is in poor repair and needs reroofing, which is why it is currently encased in scaffolding.

 

I am sure when we called in at Barham last week, a sign said there was a craft fayre on, so would be open. I would go back, and get some shots, I thought.

 

Its a half hour drive, if that out of Dover down the A2 and off at the Wingham turning, down the valley and parking outside the church, its spire pointing to heaven.

 

Inside the church there was no fayre again, just a warden showing a lady round. We all said "hello", and I went about getting shots.

 

I have been here at least three times, but now take the big lens to get details of the windows and memorials high up, so there are always new details to reveal.

 

Star item is the window of St George and the dragon, though is hidden in the north-west corner, and best viewed from the stairs to the belltower.

 

After 20 minutes, the visitor left and the warden turned off the lights, forgetting I was there, but I had my shots.

 

From Barham its a short drive to Bridge, then along the Nailbourne to Patrixbourne, where I see the door was open, but I had another target: Bekesbourne, the next village along, crossing the dry bed of the bourne, stopping on the lane outside the church. I look left to the Old Palace, but there were no cars parked there, so no point of even knocking, I drove on.

 

Instead of turning left back to Bridge, I turn right towards Littlebourne, no real idea where I was going.

 

Littlebourne could wait for another time, I only went back there in 2020, I went to Wingham, driving on towards Sandwich.

 

I thought, it's a long time since I was at Woodnesborough, I couldcut through Ash and go there.

 

Which is what I did.

 

I could have stopped at Ash too, that's usually open, but there'll be other times. I have been there twice and got good shots last time for sure.

 

From Ash, the road climbs, leading to Woodnesborough, Woden's Hill, where there was a hill fort in antiquity. The church is on the highest point, overlooking the marshes of the old Wantum Channel, and on to Sandwich which when the Channel was still flooded, was on a spit of land.

 

The church is a marker for miles around due to its cupola, something is shares with Ringwould near to home.

 

Inside it was so dark, I thought I would need to find the lights, but I could not find them. So, I hoped the camera would cope without.

 

It did.

 

But again, I was here really to record the windows, which were rich in detail. I took 215 shots here, 560 in a morning at three churches.

 

Not bad.

 

But I was done, what light there was, was fading, even though it was only just after one. I would go home.

 

Once home I got busy.

 

I have a taste for beans. Not baked beans, but Boston Beans. I had a recipe, and we got the ingredients that morning, so went about making a huge panful. Three tins of haricot beans, tomatoes, stock, spices, bacon, pork belly, mustard, and black treacle.

 

Cooked on the hob for an hur, then cooked long and low in the oven for four hours.

 

What came out looked and tasted like fine Boston Beans. We will be eating these for weeks.

 

At the same time I make fritters.

 

The plan was to be all cooked and eaten before the football began at three.

 

I did it with half an hour to spare, the leftover wine drunk too, meaning I would struggle to stay awake for Holland v USA game. Netherlands win pretty comfortablly.

 

And in the evening, with a soundtack of funk and soul thanks to Craig, I watch Argentine v Austalia, which was a stunning game.

 

Even better, I sat on the sofa to watch, Cleo eyed me as if to say how dare you take my chosen sleeping place. But she came over, paced around, then lay between the arm of the sofa and my leg. Scully lay on the other side. I had 50% of the household cats.

 

Happier than I have been for ages.

 

Best of all was that the syrup worked, stopped the coughing, and Jools fell asleep right off.

 

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Almost hidden from its busy village street, this is one of the most famous Norman churches in Kent. Noble in its proportions and decorations it may be one of the earliest aisled churches of its date. The arcades have most unusual decoration, and some corbels above them suggest that perhaps a different form of roof was intended. My favourite part of the church is the chancel – long and impressive with dignified not-yet-lancets in the east wall. In the south aisle is a window commemorating three local men who lost their lives in the Herald of Free Enterprise disaster with the Kent Invicta symbol in prominent position. To the south of the church is an unusual Mausoleum that appears to contain several different families and to still be in use.

 

www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=St+Margaret+at+Cliffe

 

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ST. MARGARET AT CLIFFE,

OR, St. Margaret's, near Dover, as it is sometimes called; in the survey of Domesday, S. Margarita, lies eastward from Guston, a small part of the parish of West Cliffe only intervening. A borsholder for this parish is chosen at the court leet of Dover priory.

 

THIS PARISH lies very high on the chalk cliffs, adjoining the sea shore eastward; it is situated in a right angle across the channel to Calais, having the South Foreland at the southern boundary of it. The village, with the church, is situated about a quarter of a mile from the edge of the cliff, which is here of considerable height from the sea shore; on which, below high-water mark, is a spring of fresh water, which issues plentifully on the retreat of the tide; and there are several springs of fresh water in the rocks between this place and Dover, which keep rising when the tide is off. Here is a small bay, where one Thomas Laurence, in archbishop Morton's time, made a small pier, or jetty, to defend the fishing craft. In and near this bay are caught the finest flavored lobsters of any part of Britain; they are but of a small size, and of a remarkable dark red colour. This parish, like those before described, lies very bleak and exposed among the high hills which extend over this part of Kent. It is partly inclosed, and partly an open uninclosed range of arable and pasture; the soil is mostly chalk, and for the greatest part poor and unfertile. The high road from Dover to Deal runs along the western bounds of this parish.

 

There is a fair held here on July 30, by the alteration of the stile, formerly on the day of St. Justin and Rusinus, the 19th, for breeches, gloves, ribbons, and toys.

 

The family of Upton, at the latter end of king Henry VIII.'s reign, was possessed of the manor of Wanston, now called WANSON FARM, in the southern part of this parish, which continued in it till king Charles II.'s reign, when it was sold to Richard Gibbon, gent. of Dover, who in 1679 gave it by will to his grandson Richard Gibbon, after which it came by purchase into the York family, in which it continues at this time.

 

Crithmum maritimum, samphire, and Lychnis major noctiflora Dubrensis perennis, the great night-flowering Dover campion, grow plentifully on the perpendicular chalk cliffs here, and along them as far as Dover (fn. 1)

 

Crambe maritima, sea colewort, is found in this parish; and Calendula officinalts, garden marigold, is found on the beach here plentifully (fn. 2)

 

THE MANOR OF ST. MARGARET AT CLIFF, alias PALMERS, alias EAST-COURT, was formerly, most probably, part of the possessions of St. Martin's priory, in Dover, described in Domesday, and continued so till the dissolution of it in the 27th year of king Henry VIII. How this manor passed afterwards I have not found, nor the owners of it, till it was at length become the property of the family of Eaton, in which it continued for some length of time, and till Peter Eaton, gent. in 1642, anno 17 Charles I. at length alienated it to Bartholomew Planker, merchant, of Dover, who at his death devised it to the children of John Francis, his kinsman. William Francis was possessed of it in 1679, and was succeeded in it by Mr. John Francis. But in the year 1710, it was become the property of William Denne, gent. from whom it again passed into the name of Francis; for in 1717 William Francis alienated this manor to William Tindale, A. M. of Trinity-hall, in Cambridge, who passed it away to John Chitty, of St. Margaret's, and he conveyed it by sale in 1730, to Mr. Richard Solly, gent. of Sandwich, whose arms were, Argent, a chevron between three soles, hauriant, proper, within a bordure engrailed, sable, and his grandson RichardHeaton Solly, esq. of St. Margaret's, is the present owner of it. A court baron is held for this manor.

 

THE MANOR OF REACH, commonly called Ridge, the mansion of which is situated in the southern part of this parish, was part of the antient possessions of the priory of St. Martin, in Dover, perhaps part of its original endowment, and accordingly it is thus entered, among the rest of their possessions in this parish, under the general title of the land belonging to it, in different places in the survey of Domesday:

 

In this same hundred, (viz. Beusberg), lies S. Margaret.

 

There Sired has one suling and one carucate iu demesne, and six borderers with four servants. It is worth one hundred shillings. In the time of king Edward the Confessor, four pounds. The father of the same Sired held it as a prebend.

 

In the same place, Radulf holds one sulings, and has one carucate in demesne, and seven borderers, worth sixty and nine shillings and two pence. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, four pounds. Alric held it as a prebend in like manner.

 

In the same place, Alred holds one suling, and has in demesne one carucate, and two villeins, and two borderers, with half a carucate. It is worth sixty shillings. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, twenty shillings. The father of him held it as a prebend.

 

In the same place, Robert Niger holds one suling, and has there three villeins, and six borderers, with one carucate. It is worth thirty shillings. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, twenty shillings. Esmellt held it, the chaplain of king Edward.

 

In the same place, Walter holds one suling, and there has three villeins, and five borderers, with one carucate and an half. It is worth sixty shillings. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, seventy shillings. Siger held it as a prebend.

 

In the same place, Turbat holds half a suling, and there has two villeins, and one borderer, with half a carucate; and the same Robert has half a suling in Cornelai hundred, and there half a carucate in demesne, and five borderers. In the whole it is worth three pounds. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, four pounds. Goldston held it.

 

In the same place, Eduuine holds a suling, and also twenty-five acres of land. In demesne he has half a carucate, and one villein, with half a carucate.

 

In Cornilai hundred, the same Eduine has four times twenty and five acres, and there has one villein with one carucate. It is worth three pounds. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, four pounds. He himself held it in the time of king Edward the Consessor. From this prebend the bishop of Baieux took away eight acres, and gave them to Alan his clerk. Now Ulric de Oxeneford has them.

 

And a little further: In Cornelai hundred. To this same Anchitill, (viz the archdeacon) the bishop of Baieux gave fifty acres of land at Dele, and other fifty acres at St. Margaret, where he has one villein and half a carucate. These one hundred acres of land were of the prebends, as is testified. In the whole it is worth eight pounds. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, seven pounds.

 

Nigell the physician holds at St. Margaret's one yoke and an half, and has there one villein, with two oxen. It is worth twenty shillings. In the time of king Edward the Consessor, twenty-five shillings. Spirites held it as a prebend.

 

And below again, under the title, Also the possession of St. Martin:

 

In the inland of St. Martin, there remain seven borderers, with half a carucate, paying sixty shillings

 

There is towards the shoes of the canons. St. Margaret pays eight one sochman. pounds.

 

THOSE PARTS in the above description in Cornelai hundred, seem to refer to the districts of Oxney, and Kingsdowne, northward of this parish, and the remainder wholly to St. Margaret at Cliffe, in this hundred of Bewsborough, which continued afterwards part of the possessions of the priory of St. Martin, till the suppression of it, in the 27th year of Henry VIII. when it was dissolved as being under the clear yearly value of two hundred pounds, and given up, together with all its lands and possessions, to the king; but this manor, with the advowson of the church of St. Margaret appendant, did not continue long in the king's hands, who in his 29th year granted them, with the scite of the priory and other possessions late belonging to it, in exchange to the archbishop, in which state they continue at this time, his grace the archbishop being now entitled to them. Mr. Thomas Hatton, of Buckland, is the present lessee of it. A court baron is held for this manor.

 

Charities.

THERE were given by a person unknown, for the poor, and chiefly to windows who do not receive alms, three roods of land, now of the annual produce of 1l. 4s. and by another person unknown, for the like use, two roods of land, now of the annual produce of 10s.

 

THERE are five roods of land given for tolling the bell at night, called Curfew land, and there are fifty acres of fine land in two pieces, said to have been given to the poor, and supposed to have been ingrossed by those who cultivate the land.

 

THERE it given to the clerk two acres of land, and for the use of the sacrament one acre, called Sacrament Acre, now of the yearly value of 4s. 6d.

 

The poor constantly maintained are about thirty, casually ten.

 

THIS PARISH is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Dover.

 

The church, which is dedicated to St. Margaret, is exempt from the archdeacon. It is large and strongly built, having a tower steeple at the west end, and is adorned on the outside, as well as within, with many marks of antiquity. The church is preferable to most of the country churches in this part of the county, the roof is supported by two rows of pillars, and semicircular arches, the chancel is lofty and handsome, being separated from the body of the church by a beautiful semicircular arch, the arch over the west door is ornamented much, after the Saxon manner, and has several rude heads on it. There are several small arches and nitches in the side walls of the nave, above the roofs of the two side isles, the nave or middle isle rising above them in the nature of a choir. The tower, which is square, had formerly four small turrets, one at each corner; but about the year 1711, that turret on the west side, with a part of the tower, fell down, and the tower having never been repaired, the other three turrets were probably taken down to make the whole appear more uniform. On some of the arches of the two isles are the arms of Savage. The chancel was handsomely wainscotted and carved several years since by the then lessee of the great tithes, Mr. Richard Crook, of Bekesborne.

 

This church was antiently an appendage to the manor, and as such was part of the possessions of the priory of St. Martin, to which it was very early appropriated, and a vicarage was endowed in it by an agreement made in 1296, between the vicar of it and the sacrist of the priory. (fn. 3) In which state it continued till the dissolution of the priory, anno 27 Henry VIII. when it came into the king's hands, and was afterwards granted by him, in his 29th year, as an appendage to the manor, to the archbishop, in exchange, as has been already mentioned before, with a reservation of forty shillings yearly pension to the vicar, since which it has remained parcal of the possessions of that see, his grace the archbishop being now possessed of the appropriation, with the advowson of the vicarage.—Mr. Kingsford Wood is the present lessee of this parsonage.

 

The vicarage is valued in the king's books at 6l. 10s. per annum. In 1588 here were eighty-eight communicants, and it was valued at twenty pounds per annum. In 1661, archbishop Juxon augmented this vicarage with twenty-six pounds per annum, which was confirmed anno 28 Charles II. It is now a discharged living, of about the clear yearly value of forty-six pounds.

 

The vicarage-house was burnt down in 1721, and has never since been rebuilt.

 

www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-kent/vol9/pp412-418

3 AUG 13

 

[This is a long entry today about the wedding, but I’m starting to catch up with all the entries and will hopefully finish them all by this Friday and get caught up enough so I can start uploading all the other pics. I’m going to try not to be “that person” who goes on vacation and uploads 2,000 images, so I’m trying to whittle 7 days of some of the greatest adventures of my life, into like 20 images which I’ll slowly upload vs. bombard you with…we’ll see. Anyway, today’s collage is brought to you by the letter W. W. Wuh-ed-ding. Wed-ding. Wedding. (ha ha, Sesame Street Love) Image: clockwise from left—our wedding bouquets which one of the girls brought to the salon so we could carry them with us. Uh mazing flowers. K’s dress…the second one, yikes, but it all worked out b/c it was lovely. R, and the girls and I, trying to center the shabby chic curtains and table for the reception. The drinks the girls shared with K (I had a non-alcoholic beverage which I was glad they brought me b/c I don’t drink and she made sure they had a regular drink for me), and finally K in the process of getting her hair done)]

 

Time to get married people!!! Let’s just re-cap shall we, all the things that have gone wrong up until this moment for our dear bride, and my brother, the groom. A week ago, the tailor ruined K’s original wedding dress by cutting off the flare. This was after 6 fittings and over 8 months she had loved this dress and then just like that, crazy lady ruins in. She was refunded her tailoring fees at the very least, go fig. In just one week’s time, she had to find an entirely new dress and have it altered in time for the wedding. Two of my brother’s groomsman couldn’t make it to the wedding including the best man. One waited too long to buy his plane tickets despite knowing for an entire year of the wedding, and one just lost his job and decided not to come, so he went down two groomsman. The wedding colors were in the pinks, but the florist delivered an entire half of the batch in a yellow. We had to send our bridesmaids dresses back 2 times before ending up with four totally different dresses instead of the original one as well as send back the original shoes which were not pink but a peach color and totally uncomfortable with no cushioning in the foot bed at all. Then there was the never ending rain which for the past 2 days had threatened to destroy the wedding which was 80% totally outside, and then finally the wedding rehearsal that almost didn’t happen.

 

So this morning, I tentatively opened my eyes. I was sleeping in the basement which had windows that led out to the ground floor of the backyard, but I could see through the window slats that the sun was out. OMG! I facebooked her, like the sun is out, PRICELESS. I think literally everyone for five miles let out a sign of relief. I immediately got my stuff for the wedding, and walked next door to K’s mom’s house so we could all ride to the salon. Now my big surprise to all of them was going to be my hair. As soon as I let them know I had an afro, there were no plans made for me at the salon which I knew and let them know that I wouldn’t need my hair done, but months ago I’d purchased a wig to wear, my now 10th or 11th one in my collection. I hadn’t told my family either so they kept bugging me and bugging me to get a hair cut and this and that and finally on Tuesday, I’d gotten my hair cut, but I think my mom was the most pissed because she was like, you can’t go a wedding without having your hair at least neat and trim and blah, blah, blah. I think it was making her nerves bad, but I really wanted it to be one of the surprises of the wedding and to all the guests, so I couldn’t tell her.

 

We went to the one salon of the entire town practically, and the salon owner offered me up the massage chair so I wouldn’t get bored I guess, but I told her I was shooting the bridal party as they got ready so I snapped around for about an hour and half. The ladies enjoyed Mimosa’s I think…I don’t know…I don’t drink, but one of the bridesmaids had brought all four of us Starbucks for breakfast which I also don’t drink, so she was kind enough to get me this Valencia orange thing which was okay, so I sipped on that while they imbibed a bit. K was so calm. Freakishly so. I think because the sun was out, everything was probably going to be a-ok in her mind and we were all cool with that b/c it had been rough going the night before with the endless rain. Midway through the appointment, we all left to the only bridal shop in town across the street (picture one of those old towns in the wild west, and you’ll have an idea of how this town was set up). We were looking for a veil apparently b/c the one she’d bought went with her original dress, but since this was an all new one, they figured either they’d find one today or she’d go without a veil. The bridal shop worker was like, oh, and when do you need it, and we all laughed and said in unison, “today!” Since K had her hair in curls one of the other girls modeled veils for her until it was decided that there would be no takers. We talked about what was borrowed, blue, old, and new and checked off the list, and then back to the salon to finish up the girls who all looked lovely. K ended up with her hair pulled to one side in a low pony tale of cascading curls, side swept bang, and the pearl pin at the back of her hair. Oye, she was lovely, absolutely lovely.

 

After that, it was back to get the gluten free cake, and then off to the venue where again, we had a ton of work to do. This is where I met R and two young helpers whom K had paid to help out for the day. R was absolutely a doll and a pleasure to work with. So on top of things, all smiles. I could see myself being life long friends with her. The two teens were great too. We had a few laughs over the lack of bow tying skills we all seemed to have. At one point, when one of them tied this crazy looking ribbon, K started to approach and I screamed, rip it apart, rip it apart, don’t let her see our failure, and everyone cracked up. R ended up fixing it though. We told her she needed to join Pinterest like yesterday with all the stuff she contributed to the wedding and all the cutesy stuff.

 

So here I was, day of the wedding, hauling in stuff from barns on carts, and trudging through the mud, and fetching people and items left and right and I’m thinking at some point is someone going to let me know its time to get ready. Somewhere in there the other two bridesmaids disappeared after helping out all morning so I kept on helping and eventually I told R who had no clue I was a bridesmaid, that I probably should go check inside the house, and I walk in and everyone is like feverishly getting ready. I was like wtf guys! Thanks for telling me! At least I thought that. Again, I thought, why am I a bridesmaid? Seriously? Clearly not important enough to these life long friends for life to tell I was still out there in the mud schlepping stuff inside and out! I just let it go though. Not about me right. Really, not about me. I got lucky anyway, and got the one downstairs bathroom all to myself and had to power rush putting on the lashes, the make-up the foundation the blush, the dress, and the wig in under 30 minutes which thanks to my pre-practice routine, I could do. I seriously practiced the “what if” I had to get ready in 30, 20, or 15 minutes routines just in case b/c I’d been to a previous thing where I had to rush hair and make-up, so now I practice what to do with it all so I am never flustered for big events again which has more then paid off because I calmly rushed through everything I needed and the only thing I had to re-do was my lashes because despite getting the much better Duo lash glue, I’d glued one on a bit high, so I had to re-position, but YES, they finally stayed on all night.

 

The plan was we all get ready and then do early photos so that K and A could really enjoy their reception vs. take a whole bunch of photos forever because there was no real official cocktail hour, though people would get drinks any time with the bartender and there were snacks out everywhere strategically placed. Turns out, which was a surprise to me, that there were a total of 10 bridesmaids. There were the four of us official gals who were going to stand in the wedding with our navy dresses and pink heels and the other 6 honorary bridesmaids were told to just wear a fancy navy dress and wedges and take pics with us. There were 5 flower girls who were adorable looking angels in their white studded flower headbands and white dresses with these big satin bows on back. When they were altogether, they looked so angelic and cute. Everyone was ooing and awing. There were also two ringbears, the brides, brother ( a groomsman)’s children. O was so friggin’ cute. I love that kid in his little bow tie, white shirt, grey pants, and chucks. So friggin’ cute next to his brother in the same attire. Picture: www.flickr.com/photos/37515175@N03/9522351536/in/photostr...

 

First looks were in the barn. The farm owner had these huge curtains that opened up to the outdoor, so we held the doors, nearly 200 years old, closed, as my brother approached and stood waiting on the other side. K said her heart was just pounding away. I knew I couldn’t look or I’d cry. I can’t see people cry with heavy emotion b/c it triggers me and we were literally about to start taking photos, so I looked at the wall behind them until the emotional first look was over, but everyone was just sighing and ooing and awing and wiping tears away. It was such a beautiful moment. My brother had a tear in his eye and he looked so handsome. We never get to see ourselves really dressed up in the same place b/c we live in different states hundreds of miles apart. I gave him a fist bump of approval and he said I looked awesome. At this point, everyone was shocked at my 180. An hour ago, I was covered in mud and had short hair, and now my hair was like down to my shoulders and I was dressed and in heels, so it felt great. As my side of the family started to arrive, I think they were all shocked b/c no one knew. The other HUGE surprise was that K and her other friend had gone half and half on a plane ticket to fly one of my brother’s old work/college friends into town at midnight. My brother had absolutely no clue. K’s mom had told him that they needed him to run to the airport to pick up a late night package from the UPS. Not unusual given the airport is so small and there aren’t many mail drops, so my brother was there waiting, so I’m told, and his friend walks in and says are there any whatever sports team I forget the name that they are both obsessed with fans in the house and my brother turned around and said, I am, and wasn’t of course thinking about his friend, so he does like a double take and was speechless. What a great freaking surprise. K had also conspired to get him a suit and pants and tie for the wedding, so he was able to act as a groomsman to make up for the fact that two had suddenly dropped out. Talk about wonderful surprise!!!

 

So today I got to meet LJ, who was my kind of person. Dark humor, funny, we were cracking all sorts of inappropriate jokes during the photos and the reception. It was weird b/c he just came up to me, I’d never met him before, said hi, who he was, the surprise and then after that, he and I were hip mates. He even joked that I was gorgeous, and didn’t want my brother beating him up for saying so. Calm down people, he’s married with kids and was being nice, so don’t think of it that way! We had a blast, but before that all happened, we had to rush back inside, everyone was seated, and the music started. K’s cousin played the guitar and sung. I prayed that I would not fall out of my shoes because we were in high heels walking over earth, but we had these heel taps or whatever they are called. Plastic things that you put on your heel tips and they keep you from sinking down in the grass. Totally worked, however, my shoes were two sizes almost too big, so I was toe gripping the hell out of the shoes as I walked. This was an emotional blow to my soul because I can work a four inch heel just fine, but b/c of these huge shoes I had to walk slow and awkward like I didn't know what I was doing or that I knew how to walk in heels, ugh. I took two steps down the aisle and immediately my left shoe started to come off and I was trying to smile and keep my shizz together and maneuver my foot back in without completely having to lean over and do it, but whew, I got it on before I hit the back row of the pseudo outdoor church. Thankfully or not, it was a LONNNNNG walk to the alter and I was the first bridesmaid to do it. Funny thing is, with not that many black people from my side there, I was trying to smile at my family like hey, you’re here, but I waved to this lady who was black and then I realized, I had no clue who she was (turns out she’s one of my mom’s second cousins or something), but awkward, ha! I made it though without tripping. Next were the other three bridesmaids and then ooooooohhhh lawd, cutie pie O and his brother L, the ring bearers. O, who is 2, was led by L who is four by the hand, and little O, made it all the way to the end of aisle and then started playing with the flowers which was super cute with his little sign hanging around his neck which read K plus A. Unfortunately he was so little that the little kids chairs they had up front for them and the flower girls, that he couldn’t reach the chair, so by this time the cute flower girls had come through tossing flowers all dramatically (it was hilarious), and had gone to sit, so I scooped little O up and put him in the chair, well we ran out of chairs somehow so K’s sister (maid of honor)’s daughter didn’t have one and she who is 5 years old began to throw the biggest tantrum you’ve ever seen. O’s mom picked him up freeing up the chair, but she then screamed that no, she didn’t want a green chair, she wanted a yellow one like all the other girls had…and she screamed…and screamed, all the while K was making her way up the ailse with her dad.

 

Everyone got settled and she was still screaming her head off. K’s dad, who is also a lawyer, who can in that state legally marry people, had moved into his position to lead the ceremony after answering to his son, K’s brother, who gives this woman away, the mother and I, so now leading the ceremony he told the guests to just let it go referring to M’s kid having the tantrum, but M’s husband thankfully snatched her up and omg, she screamed all the way to the barn which was like a mile away and we could all still hear her screaming in the barn. I was thinking, this is like the oldest girl in the bunch and she’s acting like a 3 year old. All the other kids at the BBQ, the bridal shower, and now today, had not so much as shed one tear or screamed or fought or anything, but yet in the three days, I’d seen 3 meltdowns from her alone. Sheesh!

 

Anyway, after that it was almost smooth sailing. K’s dad announced that K was here today marrying Ad which is his already son-in-law, so that was totally embarrassing, but he quickly corrected himself. Next, Morgan Freeman, aka, my aunts bf, ended up reading the infamous poem that no one wanted to read, there was a moment of silence for those that had passed on, my parents and K’s parents lit anniversary candles. My parents married 35 years, and hers 40, and then K and A lit from their candles their own candle. There was another poem read by the matchmaker who’d set them up. Then there were speeches from the dads. During the ceremony it was so funny, one of the flower girls would walk down the aisle and pick up stray roses and throw them up in the air which provided constant laughs; so cute. Then it was they are married, they kissed and we were done. Tons of family pictures, picture with all the guests, fast forward to food and reception.

 

There were 4 speeches, one from each dad, and then maid of honor, and then best man. The maid of honor, K’s sister, had this serious loving well thought out speech she’d crafted about how one day the two of them won’t wonder about their love or something, they’ll know, something like that, it was all heartfelt, but part of her speech said something like, you’ll no longer do it, you’ll have done it over and over and there was this one pause and someone laughed and then everyone sort of grabbed hold to the unintentional word play and it was too late, everyone was laughing and cheering and clinking their glasses, and the poor thing was like, no, that wasn’t what I meant, but it made it more awesome. She finished and then the best man who was married to H the pregnant lady, got up and said, you know, yesterday I was here at the barn preparing stuff for today and I was thinking that I hadn’t written a speech for today, so I went to one of the unused rooms of the barn and sat down for a long time to write my speech on a piece of paper I found…and then the pulled out the paper which unraveled revealing a whole spool of toilet paper with his notes on (aka, he’d found the bathroom). That got a huge roar of laughter and applause and his speech was so good, and not jut funny, but heartfelt. I could see why they were good good friends. Absolutely.

 

Yada yada, good times, we ate salad, potatoes, pulled BBQ pork which was to die for, fruit salad, and some noodle thing. I served some cake up to the guests, they had champagne toasts, and then we lit those wish hot air balloons up into the sky. Ugh, it was magical I tells you. There was a marked hush when K and A’s first balloon went up into the sky. Gorgeous. Then to see all of them floating together was magical. After that it was time to cut loose! The dancing began and it was on! I went out with LJ who was my hip buddy now and he was like, time to get this thing started, so we did like a pseudo Temptations dance with my brother, himself and myself which got some applause, and then it was line dancing, 60’s soul music, some modern alternative, some standard party songs. We did a soul train line. Almost every single person danced to at least 3 songs. The barn was so beautiful at night. We’d lit the mason jar candelabra which was just beautiful, and the Christmas light chandelier was glowing and it was one of those moments where you pause and reflect and say, it was worth it.

 

So glad my brother has married a wonderful woman with an extraordinary family wracked with love. As my dad said during his wedding speech, the mark of a good parent is that you have raised them so that someone else can love them as much as you love them, and here we all stand today together as two families that are now one, who have raised great children who will someday have their own children. I mean, right there, that was it. I am so glad to now have K as my sister in law. I wish the two of them the longevity and then some that both her parents and my parents have shared in their marriages.

 

An so today, a Bank Holiday that promised to be cloudy and cool. But there was some early morning sunshine, and I knew that the Western Heights Preservation Society had the Grand Shaft open.

 

At just gone ten, we drove into town and up Military Hill the other side.

 

The Grand Shaft is a unique triple helix staircase, designed to move troops from the barracks above the harbour to port level in the shortest time possible.

 

Channel 5 showed a program last week, and suggested the Grand Shaft was from the castle to the harbour, but it is on the other side of the town, on the hill opposite the castle, where there were large fortifications built for the Napoleonic Wars. But the war was over before the staircase was in use.

 

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The Grand Shaft is a unique structure in the Western Heights and a very rare example of a triple spiral staircase in fortifications of the same age (early 1800s). When work began in earnest on the Western Heights, it soon became apparent that rapid troop movement from the cliff top to street level was greatly hindered by the distance that the men would have to cover. If an attacking force had tried to make a landing on the harbour or beach at Dover, troops on the Heights would have had to make their way along from the Drop Redoubt or Citadel to the original South Entrance (now the site of the Western Heights Roundabout), along what is now Snargate Street to meet the enemy; a route of almost a mile and a half, when troops were barracked only some 300 feet above sea level! This was hardly an ideal scenario and in 1804 construction started on the Grand Shaft, which had been designed by Lieutenant-Colonel William Twiss. The triple staircase itself is 140ft deep and at the base is a tunnel leading out to a guard room and from there out into the town. At the top is a further single staircase leading up to the parade ground of the Grand Shaft Barracks. This top staircase is inside what is known as the bowl, and was excavated out of the cliff top. The shaft itself was then dug vertically through the cliff and revetted with brick. Windows line the central shaft to allow light into the staircases, approximately every 30 stairs. As the threat of invasion passed, the Grand Shaft became something of a local attraction, and there are stories of a Mr William Leith of Deal riding his horse up the Grand Shaft for a wager! What is clear is that in the Georgian period, there were no class distinctions attached to the triple staircase. It was simply to ensure rapid troop movement, when men of all ranks would have been deployed down any and all of the staircases in the event of an enemy attack. However, as the Victorian period progressed, class distinction became ever more apparent, and while no definitive documentation exists, the most popular theory states that the staircases were divided into “Officers and their Ladies”, “Sergeants and their Wives” and “Soldiers and their Women”. This has been supported by the fact that the Queen’s Regulations of the time clearly stated that there was to be no off-duty fraternisation between the ranks. As well as carrying troops, the Grand Shaft also had to carry the drainage from the Grand Shaft Barracks above. This had rather unpleasant consequences, and it was noted in a commission of 1858 that each time the privies were flushed, the force of the water would force sewer gas up through traps into the shaft, but also unfortunately into houses! The commission noted that a large tank with a foul air pipe was needed at the bottom of the shaft to counteract such obnoxious fumes! The guard room at the bottom of the shaft was part of a walled compound, which was found by the 1858 to be hopelessly inadequate as it was far too small to serve any function effectively. The original guardroom, coal bunker and ash pit were therefore demolished and a new compound constructed with an Officer’s guard room, two cells and a latrine and a gas meter house, which indicates the time that gas lighting was introduced to the Western Heights. Today only the gas meter house remains; all other structures were demolished.

 

www.doverwesternheights.org/index.php/the-grand-shaft

 

The Western Heights of Dover are one of the most impressive fortifications in Britain. They comprise a series of forts, strong points and ditches, designed to protect the country from invasion. They were created to augment the existing defences and protect the key port of Dover from both seaward and landward attack. They are now a Local Nature Reserve.

 

First given earthworks in 1779 against the planned invasion that year, the high ground west of Dover, England, now called Dover Western Heights, was properly fortified in 1804 when Lieutenant-Colonel William Twiss was instructed to modernise the existing defences. This was part of a huge programme of fortification in response to Napoleon's planned invasion of the United Kingdom.

 

To assist with the movement of troops between Dover Castle and the town defences Twiss made his case for building the Grand Shaft in the cliff:

 

‘...the new barracks.....are little more than 300 yards horizontally from the beach.....and about 180 feet (55 m) above high-water mark, but in order to communicate with them from the centre of town, on horseback the distance is nearly a mile and a half and to walk it about three-quarters of a mile, and all the roads unavoidably pass over ground more than 100 feet (30 m) above the barracks, besides the footpaths are so steep and chalky that a number of accidents will unavoidably happen during the wet weather and more especially after floods. I am therefore induced to recommend the construction of a shaft, with a triple staircase.... chief objective of which is the convenience and safety of troops....and may eventually be useful in sending reinforcements to troops or in affording them a secure retreat.’

 

Twiss’s plan was approved and building went ahead. The shaft was to be 26 feet (7.9 m) in diameter, 140 feet (43 m) deep with a 180 feet (55 m) gallery connecting the bottom of the shaft to Snargate Street, and all for under an estimated £4000.

 

The plan entailed building two brick-lined shafts, one inside the other. In the outer would be built a triple staircase, the inner acting as a light well with ‘windows’ cut in its outer wall to illuminate the staircases. Apparently, by March 1805 only 40 feet (12 m) of the connecting gallery was left to dig and it is probable that the project was completed by 1807.

 

The Drop Redoubt is one of the two forts on Western Heights, and is linked to the other, the Citadel, by a series of dry moats (the lines). It is, arguably, the most impressive and immediately noticeable feature on Dover’s Western Heights.

 

The artillery at the Redoubt faced mostly inland; it was intended to attack an invading force attempting to capture Dover from the rear.

 

The construction of the Redoubt was in two periods: the first being from 1804-1808 during the Napoleonic Wars, and the second from 1859-1864 following the recommendations of the 1859 Royal Commission.

 

The original form of the Drop Redoubt was a simple pentagon, formed by cutting trenches into the hillside and revetting (facing) them with brickwork. Thus, the Redoubt was a solid ‘island’ with barracks, magazine, and artillery, on top. Originally, it would have accommodated 200 troops but, by 1893, the numbers had been reduced to just 90.

 

A striking feature of the first period is the Soldiers’ Quarters – five bomb-proof casemates. These are parabolic in cross section and covered in a thick layer of earth to withstand the effect of mortar-bombs. The windows at the rear of each open into a trench, to protect them against blast.

 

The rise of Napoleon III during the 1850s caused a further invasion scare, and a Royal Commission was set up in 1859 to investigate the defences of Britain. As a result, more work was deemed necessary at the Heights, and the Drop Redoubt had its defences improved. Caponiers were added to four of the corners of the existing fort (each with a stone staircase leading up to the top of the Redoubt), and gunrooms were built alongside two of them to allow fire along the North and South-East Lines. The original magazine was enlarged, and covered with a large earth bank as protection from mortar-fire.

 

The Officers’ Quarters, Guardroom, and cells also date from this period. They can be distinguished from the earlier work by the semi-circular shape of their arches.

 

During World War II, the Redoubt housed a squad of commandos that, in the event of invasion, would have been responsible for destroying Dover Harbour. Their presence was secret and the lines around the Redoubt were mined. Evidence of their stay are the sally ports in Caponiers 1 & 2, and the short tunnel leading from the encircling line to Drop Redoubt Road.

 

The entrance to Drop Redoubt was via a bridge. The inner third of this was pivoted so that the Redoubt could be isolated. The pivot and the recess into which the bridge swung can still be seen, although the bridge has long since gone. In the 1980s, a temporary scaffolding bridge was built by the army to enable access for guided tours of the Redoubt, but this was removed in the middle 1990s to prevent unauthorised entry and vandalism.

 

Originally, the Redoubt was to be equipped with 12 smooth bore 24-pounder guns and two carronades. However, it is unlikely that many were installed since the Napoleonic War was almost over by the time construction was completed. In 1851, only three 24-pounders were in place, with six 12-pounder saluting guns and an 8” mortar.

 

Following the Second Period, eleven Armstrong 64-pounder Rifled Breech Loaders were installed on traversing carriages. These proved unsatisfactory and a return was made to muzzle loaders.

 

On top of the Redoubt are the remains of a Roman Pharos, or lighthouse, which complemented the one that still exists in the grounds of Dover Castle. Both date from the 2nd Century AD, and would have been similar in design lighting the cliffs either side of the Roman Port of Dubris. The remains were lost during the first period of construction, but were re-discovered during the second period and restored to their original position as a rather shapeless lump of masonry. The foundations, though, are present in the room immediately below.

 

Local names for the remains of the Pharos are the ‘Bredenstone’ or the ‘Devil’s Drop of Mortar’, and it was here, until 1804, that the Lords Warden of the Cinque Ports had their installation ceremony. It is likely that the name ‘Drop Redoubt’ originates from the local name given to the ruins of the Pharos.

 

Today, much of the site is open as a country park. The barracks have been demolished; and the Citadel has been a young offenders' institution - and is now Dover Immigration Removal Centre and so is off limits.

 

English Heritage owns the Redoubt; the Grand Shaft spiral staircase is owned by the council, and is annually opened by the Western Heights Preservation Society.

 

The Grand Shaft Bowl, located south of Drop Redoubt, is the proposed location for the new National War Memorial, which will commemorate, by name, all of the British Commonwealth casualties of World War I and World War II.

 

The Grand Shaft Barracks was the location for the filming of the post-nuclear attack scenes in the Peter Watkins 1965 film; The War Game.

 

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dover_Western_Heights

Holy Family and St Michael, Kesgrave, Ipswich, Suffolk

 

A new entry on the Suffolk Churches site.

 

There are ages of faith which leave their traces in splendour and beauty, as acts of piety and memory. East Anglia is full of silent witnesses to tides which have ebbed and flowed. Receding, they leave us in their wake great works from the passing ages, little Norman churches which seem to speak a language we can no longer understand but which haunts us still, the decorated beauty of the 14th Century at odds with the horrors of its pestilence and loss, the perpendicular triumph of the 15th Century church before its near-destruction in the subsequent Reformation and Commonwealth, the protestant flowering of chapels and meeting houses in almost all rural communities, and most obvious of all for us today the triumphalism of the Victorian revival.

 

But even as tides recede, piety and memory survive, most often in quiet acts and intimate details. The catholic church of Holy Family and St Michael at Kesgrave is one of their great 20th Century treasure houses.

 

At the time of the 1851 census of religious worship, Kesgrave was home to just 86 people, 79 of whom attended morning service that day, giving this parish the highest percentage attendance of any in Suffolk. However, they met half a mile up the road at the Anglican parish church of All Saints, and the current site of Holy Family was then far out in the fields. In any case, it is unlikely that any of the non-attenders was a Catholic. Today, Kesgrave is a sprawling eastern suburb of Ipswich, home to about 10,000 people. It extends along the A12 corridor all the way to Martlesham, which in turn will take you pretty much all the way to Woodbridge without seeing much more than a field or two between the houses.

 

Holy Family was erected in the 1930s, and serves as a chapel of ease within the parish of Ipswich St Mary. However, it is still in private ownership, the responsibility of the Rope family, who, along with the Jolly family into which they married, owned much of the land in Kesgrave that was later built on.

 

The growth of Kesgrave has been so rapid and so extensive in these last forty years that radical expansions were required at both this church and at All Saints, as well as to the next parish church along in the suburbs at Rushmere St Andrew. All of these projects are interesting, although externally Holy Family is less dramatic than its neighbours. It sits neatly in its trim little churchyard, red-brick and towerless, a harmonious little building if rather a curious shape, of which more in a moment. Beside it, the underpass and roundabout gives it a decidedly urban air. But this is a church of outstanding interest, as we shall see.

 

It was good to come back to Kesgrave. As a member of St Mary's parish I generally attended mass at the parish's other church, a couple of miles into town, but I had been here a number of times over the years, either to mass or just to wander around and sit for a while. These days, you generally approach the church from around the back, where you'll find a sprawling car park typical of a modern Catholic church. To the west of the church are Lucy House and Philip House, newly built for the work of the Rope family charities. Between the car park and the church there there is a tiny, formal graveyard, with crosses remembering members of the Rope and Jolly families.

 

Access to the church is usually through a west door these days, but if you are fortunate enough to enter through the original porch on the north side you will have a foretaste of what is to come, for to left and right are stunning jewel-like and detailed windows depicting St Margaret and St Theresa on one side and St Catherine and the Immaculate Conception on the other. Beside them, a plaque reveals that the church was built to the memory of Michael Rope, who was killed in the R101 airship disaster of 1930.

 

Blue Peter-watching boys like me, growing up in the 1960s and 1970s, were enthralled by airships. They were one of those exciting inventions of a not-so-distant past which were, in a real sense, futuristic, a part of the 1930s modernist project that imagined and predicted the way we live now. And they were just so big. But they were doomed, because the hydrogen which gave them their buoyancy was explosive.

 

As a child, I was fascinated by the R101 airship and its disaster, especially because of that familiar photograph of its wrecked and burnt-out fuselage sprawled in the woods on a northern French hillside. It is still a haunting photograph today. The crash of the R101 put an end to airship development in the UK for more than half a century.

 

Of course, this is all ancient history now, but in the year 2001 I had the excellent fortune to be shown around Holy Family by Michael Rope's widow, Mrs Lucy Doreen Rope, née Jolly, who was still alive, and then in her nineties. She was responsible for the building of this church as a memorial to her husband. We paused in the porch so that I could admire the windows. "Do you like them?" Mrs Rope asked me. "Of course, my sister-in-law made them."

 

Her sister-in-law, of course, was Margaret Agnes Rope, who in the first half of the twentieth century was one of the finest of the Arts and Craft Movement stained glass designers. She studied at Birmingham, and then worked at the Glass House in Fulham with her cousin, Margaret Edith Aldrich Rope, whose work is also here. But their work can be found in churches and cathedrals all over the world. What Mrs Rope did not tell me, and what I found out later, is that these two windows in the porch were made for her and her husband Michael as a wedding present.

 

Doreen Jolly and Michael Rope were married in 1929. Within a year, he was dead. Mrs Rope was just 23 years old.

 

The original church from the 1930s is the part that you step into. You enter to the bizarre sight of a model of the R101 airship suspended from the roof. The nave altar and tabernacle ahead are in the original sanctuary, and you are facing the liturgical east (actually south) of the original building, and what an intimate space this must have been before the church was extended. Red brick outlines the entrance to the sanctuary, and here are the three windows made by Margaret Rope for the original church. The first is the three-light sanctuary window, depicting the Blessed Virgin and child flanked by St Joseph and St Michael. Two doves sit on a nest beneath Mary's feet, while a quizzical sparrow looks on. St Michael has the face of Michael Rope. The inscription beneath reads Pray for Michael Rope who gave up his soul to God in the wreck of His Majesty's Airship R101, Beauvais, October 5th 1930.

 

Next, a lancet in the right-hand side of the sanctuary contains glass depicting St Dominic, with a dog running beneath his feet and the inscription Laudare, Benedicere, Praedicare, ('to praise, to bless, to preach'). The third window is in the west wall of the church (in its day, the right hand side of the nave), depicting St Thomas More and St John Fisher, although at the time the window was made they had not yet been canonised. The inscription beneath records that the window was the gift of a local couple in thankfulness for their conversion to the faith for which the Blessed Martyrs Thomas More and John Fisher gave their lives. A rose bush springs from in front of the martyrs' feet.

 

By the 1950s, Holy Family was no longer large enough for the community it served, and it was greatly expanded to the east to the designs of the archtect Henry Munro Cautley. Cautley was a bluff Anglican of the old school, the retired former diocesan architect of St Edmundsbury and Ipswich, but he would have enjoyed designing a church for such an intimate faith community, and in fact it was his last major project before he died in 1959. The original sanctuary was retained as a blessed sacrament chapel, and the church was turned ninety degrees to face east for the first time. The north and south sides of the new church received three-light Tudor windows in the style most beloved by Cautley, as seen also at his Ipswich County Library in Northgate Street, and the former Fosters (now Lloyds) Bank in central Cambridge.

 

Although the Rope family had farmed at Blaxhall near Wickham Market for generations, Margaret Rope herself was not from Suffolk at all, and nor was she at first a Catholic. She was born in Shrewsbury in 1882, the daughter of Henry Rope, a surgeon at Shrewsbury Infirmary, and a son of the Blaxhall Rope family. The largest collection of Margaret Rope's glass is in Shrewsbury Cathedral. When Margaret was 17, her father died. The family were received into the Catholic church shortly afterwards. A plaque was placed in the entrance to Shrewsbury Infirmary to remember her father. When the hospital was demolished in the 1990s, the plaque was moved to here, and now sits in the north aisle of the 1950s church. In her early days in London Margaret Rope designed and made the large east window at Blaxhall church as a memorial to her grandparents. It features her younger brother Michael, and is believed to be the only window that she ever signed.

 

In her early forties, Margaret Rope took holy orders and entered the Carmelite Convent at nearby Woodbridge, but continued to produce her stained glass work until the community moved to Quidenham in Norfolk, when poor health and the distances involved proved insurmountable. She died there in 1953, and so she never saw the expanded church. Her cartoons, the designs for her windows, are placed on the walls around Holy Family. Some are for windows in churches in Scotland and Wales, one for a window in the English College in Rome. Among them are the roundels for within the enclosure of Tyburn Convent in London. "They had to remove the windows there during the War", said Mrs Rope. "Of course, with me, you have to ask which war!"

 

Turning to the east, we see the new sanctuary with its high altar, completed in 1993 as part of a further reordering and expansion, which gave a large galilee porch, kitchen and toilets to the north side of the church. The window above the new sanctuary has three lights, and the two outer windows were made by Margaret Rope for the chapel of East Bergholt convent to the south of Ipswich. They remember the Vaughan family, into which Margaret Rope's sister had married, and in particular one member, a sister in the convent, to celebrate her 25 year jubilee.

 

The convent later became Old Hall, a famous commune. They depict the prophet Isaiah and King David.

 

The central light between them is controversial. Produced in the 1990s and depicting the risen Christ, it really isn't very good, and provides the one jarring note in the church. It is rather unfortunate that it is in such a prominent position. It is not just the quality of the design that is the problem. It lets in too much light in comparison with the two flanking lights. "The glass in my sister-in-law's windows is half an inch thick", Mrs Rope told me. "In the workshop at Fulham they had a man who came in specially to cut it for them". The glass in the modern light is simply too thin.

 

Despite the 1990s extension, and as so often in modern urban Catholic churches, Holy Family is already not really big enough, although it is hard to see that there could ever be another expansion. We walked along Munro Cautley's south aisle, and at that time the stations of the cross were simple wooden crosses. However, about three months after my conversation with Mrs Rope, the World Trade Centre in New York was attacked and destroyed, and among the three thousand people killed were two local Kesgrave brothers who were commemorated with a new set of stations in cast metal.

 

Here also is a 1956 memorial window by Margaret Rope's cousin, Margaret Edith Aldrich Rope, to Mrs Rope's mother Alice Jolly, depicting the remains of the shrine at Walsingham and the Jolly family at prayer before it. Another MEA Rope window is across the church in the galilee, a Second World War memorial window, originally on the east side of the first church before Cautley's extension. It depicts three of the English Martyrs, Blessed Anne Lynne, Blessed Robert Southwell and Blessed John Robinson, as well as the shipwreck of Blessed John Nutter off of Dunwich, with All Saints church on the cliffs above.

 

The galilee is designed for families with young children to play a full part in mass, and is separated from the church by a glass screen. At the top of the screen is a small panel by Margaret Rope which is of particular interest because it depicts her and her family participating in the Easter vigil, presumably in Shrewsbury Cathedral. This is hard to photograph because it is on an internal window between two rooms.

 

A recent addition to the Margaret Edith Aldrich Rope windows here is directly opposite, newly installed on the south side of the nave. It was donated by her great-nephew. It depicts a nativity scene, the Holy Family in the stable at Bethlehem, an angel appearing to shepherds on the snowy hills beyond. It is perhaps her loveliest window in the church.

 

Finally, back across the church. Here, beside the brass memorial to Margaret Rope, is a window depicting the Blessed Virgin and child, members of the Rope family in the Candlemas procession beneath. The inscription reminds us to pray for the soul of Sister Margaret of the Mother of God, mistress of novices and stained glass artist, Monastery of the Magnificat of the Mother of God, Quidenham, Norfolk, entered Carmel 14th September 1923, died 6th December 1953. Sister Margaret of the Mother of God was, of course, Margaret Rope herself. She was buried in the convent at Quidenham, a Shrewsbury exile at rest in the East Anglian soil of her forebears. The design is hers, and the window was made by her cousin Margaret Edith Aldrich Rope.

 

Back in 2001, we were talking about the changing Church, and I asked Mrs Rope what she thought about the recently introduced practice of transferring Holy Days on to the nearest Sunday, so that the teaching of them was not lost. Mrs Rope approved, a lady clearly not stuck in the past. She had a passion for ensuring that the Faith could be shared with children. As we have seen, her church is designed so that young families can take a full part in the Mass. But she was sympathetic to the distractions of the modern age. "The world is so exciting for children these days", she said. "I think it must be difficult to bring them up with a sense of the presence of God." She smiled. "Mind you, my son is 70 now! And I do admire young girls today. They have such spirit!"

 

She left me to potter about in her wonderful treasure house. As I did so, I thought of medieval churches I have visited, which were similarly donated by the Mrs Ropes of their day, perhaps even for husbands who had died young. They not only sought to memorialise their loved ones, but to consecrate a space for prayer, that masses might be said for the souls of the dead. This was the Catholic way, a Christian duty. Before the Reformation, this was true in every parish in England. It remained true here at Kesgrave.

 

And finally, back outside to the small graveyard. Side by side are two crosses. One remembers Margaret Edith Aldrich Rope, artist, 1891-1988. The other remembers Lucy Doreen Rope, founder of this church, 1907-2003.

from Tim Robertson

Jun 15, 2014

Dear Friends and Family,

 

Last Saturday I found myself playing the role of fake teacher. I can now see the humor of the situation but it was not an experience that I had expected. I suppose I should have seen it coming the evening before, when my supervisor from the Office of Foreign Affairs invited me and my colleague out to dinner with some of her friends - the first time this has happened since I began teaching on the old campus. She began the occasion by giving us both a gift and then proceeded to apologize for not having done her job adequately in her responsibility toward us foreign teachers. I felt embarrassed for her since giving an explicit apology is quite uncommon in Chinese culture and, although true, it was surprising to hear her admit it. I quickly assured her that she had been very helpful and that she had a very difficult job with complicated situations. I wanted her to feel I was very sympathetic toward her so that she would be more inclined to get my papers filed and completed for my new job. I needed all the help I could get and I was desperate to use whatever leverage I had to move the process forward as best I could. Was this the answer to my prayers?

 

Midway through the elaborate dinner Greg and I were asked to help her friends to start a new English language school to prepare local high school graduates to attend college abroad. This was the real purpose of the invitation and by that time we had no choice but to agree to their request to help them recruit students and their parents. As it turned, out the next day the official college entrance exam (the infamous gaokou) was being held at local high schools so Greg and I were taken to various schools to pose as teachers for this new business. While there, I learned that I was not to identify myself as a teacher at the local college, since it would be illegal for us to work at a private school, not to mention a violation of our contract. We were just supposed to stand next to the local recruiters and lend a white face to provide prestige and credibility for a school that we knew nothing about. I don’t know how successful they were in signing up students but we went out in the morning and afternoon and were paid for our “services”. We were both relieved to find out that our participation was not needed on Sunday.

 

Hiring foreigners to pose as fake associates in a business is quite common in China (see link below) but it is was never something I aspired to do. In the past I have helped to give publicity for a local training school where I was actually teaching classes, and I expected that I would be doing somewhat the same this time as well. But the main motivation for me to accept was to curry favor with the college liaison in order to give her a personal reason to do her job on my behalf. She has been quite uncooperative and irritated with my frequent requests that she get the documents that are required by the system for this process to be completed. I am hoping she will be able to get the last document that I need to renew my resident visa, and then get a two week visitor visa to provide enough time for the process to be completed. This last official document should have been given to me a month ago but for political reasons too complicated for me to understand or explain, I will not get it until five days before my contract and resident permit expire. That is why I will need the additional two weeks to send the papers to Liaoning province, in order get my new Foreign Expert Certificate and resident permit.

 

Each of the ten documents so far have needed to be written, translated, signed and stamped by a different person, so it has been a real education for me to find my way through the bureaucracy without offending and irritating too many people by my persistence. If I do not get the last two documents all will be for naught and I will have leave the country in order to get a new entry visa, which can be quite expensive, time consuming and complicated. This is an education for me to see what Chinese must do on a regular basis and it illustrates the need to trade favors and use connections to get even simple things done. Being an outsider (non-Chinese) with no real connections or political influence, I am constantly bumping up against the inertia and indifference of officials who got their positions through family members in the party and feel no need to do anything to earn their salary. In fact, most of the time it is safer to do nothing so as to avoid irritating a superior or losing face by helping the wrong sort of people – like me.

 

This next week I will be doing final exams with each of my students by conducting an informal five minute discussion. It is challenging for me to ask different questions of each student based on their choice of one of the four movies we have used this semester. These students are masters at memorizing answers to questions if they know them ahead of time and, of course, they are expected to tell their classmates the questions that I have asked them. I find it difficult to evaluate their oral language skills objectively and consistently, especially when I am tired by doing so many within a limited time frame. My consolation is that I feel that I am getting better each time I do it, but I am keenly aware of my limitations. I also feel that I am responsible for their progress even though I have them for a total of an hour and a half each week, which is totally inadequate. But I do the best to work within the system, because, as my students often remind me, it may not be a good system, but it is the only one we have. So I feel compassion for them considering the system that they have work with and the disadvantages they have in this area of China.

 

Tonight I will go to my last English Corner and try to find something interesting to discuss. One of the recurring questions has been, “Why did you decide to come to work here?” This reflects the response to my question, “What is you biggest disappointment in life.” The most common response being, “having attend this college.” Anhui has the reputation of being the poorest province in China and has even been called “the Appalachia of China.” So it is understandable that they would want to know why I would want to teach at this college, which is in the poorest, most remote part of the province. They find it surprising when I say I like it here, but aside from it being true, I could hardly respond by showing lack of respect for the local conditions. I do like the students very much but many of them lack the motivation to study hard and do as little as possible. Perhaps this is true of a certain percentage of college students anywhere, but the standards here are dis-hearteningly low, with little incentive, since most everyone passes their classes no matter what.

 

To illustrate this point, I asked a graduating senior that I have gotten to know quite well and is known as a good student, “Did you download your senior thesis from the internet?” He became quite irritated at my question but not for the reason that I had expected. His response, “Of course I did, because 99% of all senior theses at this school are from the internet.” After looking over and reading his thesis, I was struck by how my research papers in high school had higher requirements, and that was before computers or the internet when I actually had to read books and type it on a manual typewriter with footnotes and bibliography. This was the only research paper required of these students in their four years of college. So it is easy for me to get cynical and feel I am part of a diploma mill as a fake teacher. But I take it as a challenge to give more than required and more than is expected out of concern for them as individual students and out of my desire to represent my Lord. Perhaps too out of a desire to feel that I am making a difference in their lives and they will remember and appreciate my efforts. Perhaps this illustrates my own overgrown ego to think I am doing something important and of eternal value.

 

Last week I went on a long bike ride with another foreign English teacher who is teaching at a local high school before returning to Iowa to begin her master’s degree. I took her on a ride I had made before, but this happened to be in the middle of the wheat harvest so the concrete road on top of the levee was covered most of the way with wheat stalks that were drying from the heavy rain a couple days before. As vehicles passed over them, the grain was loosened and would later be separated from the straw and the chaff. This is a normal part of the wheat harvest although it is technically illegal to use the road for drying and threshing of crops, but universally ignored. Perhaps we were of some assistance to the farmers as we rode on top of the wheat stalks, but it certainly took more effort and we often had to stop and manually remove the straw that had gotten wrapped around the gears and jammed the gear shift mechanism. This is an example of how the experience of riding over the same route can be completely different depending on the season and the activities of the local farmers. This week my allergies were activated by the smoke from burning straw in the fields - also illegal.

 

About a month ago I took a long ride with a couple of students and the fluff from the cottonwood trees was so thick in the air it seemed like a snow fall in mid-May. It was particularly enchanting because the “snowflakes” did not actually fall, but drifted on the breeze as far as the eye could see. I had to remember to close my mouth as I rode so as not to inhale the minute fibers causing me to stop from time to time to cough and clear out my throat. We paused to sit along the river bank in front of a local god house which had heaps of blown-up fire crackers and piles of ashes from the burnt incense. The door was locked but I could peer into the gloom and make out the three ancient ancestral gods of the village and three Buddhist images which seemed to have been recently added. It is always striking to me that one never sees a single image; there are always at least three versions of the main figure, and usually many more on the side, often stacked on top of each other. Like Lays potato chips you can never have just one, and the more the better, often numbering in the hundreds or thousands, like wallpaper. Such is the inflation factor of idolatry. One idol is clearly not adequate to represent a deity, but the more you have, the less the value. There is always a need for more, ad infinitum. So they have to build another temple and the process starts all over again, with many temples in a complex, and others under construction. Maybe it shows that they know the gods are fake too.

 

There is a small Buddhist nunnery a short distance from my apartment which I have visited on occasion. At present it is hard to find because it is in the middle of a massive construction site about a square kilometer. When I first arrived the area looked like a bombed out section of Berlin after WW2, covered with heaps of rubble and debris from demolished buildings except for the temple. Now, about 18 months later there are about a dozen high-rise apartment buildings rising out of the ground like erupting teeth in a toddler’s mouth. The work continues seven days a week and would be remarkable except this is going on all round the city and into the country side surrounded by farmer’s fields. This too would be remarkable except for the fact that this is going on all over China in every city and town, with no end in sight. “And now the day has come, soon he will be released, Glory Hallelujah! We’re building, building, building the perfect beast.” (Don Henley, 1984, Album: Building the Perfect Beast)

 

I have several good job offers to teach English in China so if you know anyone who is interested, I will be glad to send the job information and contact with a recruiter who will be happy to send a contract to start teaching in September.

 

Please pray during the next two weeks that all the paper work will be done on time and as I move to Dalian (more about that next time).

Thank God, he is in control!

Tim

 

Article on Fake executives: www.cnbc.com/id/37759560

Article on “naked officials”: qz.com/218369/beijing-is-having-a-hard-time-convincing-of...

 

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Surprise!

 

May 12, 2014

 

Dear Friends and Family,

 

Today I am thankful that I could take a shower, do laundry, wash dishes and flush the toilet again. Yesterday, instead of writing this letter as I planned I focused my attention and energy on getting the water turned back on to the foreign teacher apartment building and, thankfully I was successful. This saga begins about a month ago when I noticed an official looking message posted on my door. Being illiterate but curious, I asked a student to tell me what it was about. That is how I found out that the school had not paid the water bill and this was a warning that the water was about to be turned off. Fearing the worst I took down the paper and brought it to the foreign affairs office to see what should be done. The liaison officer told me not to worry, that it was no problem and it would be taken care of. So, having received these assurances I did not think much was amiss when there was no water this past Friday.

   

After a few hours I was informed by Greg, my upstairs colleague from the UK , that the water had been turned off due to non-payment by the college. So, at least they knew about the problem and it would be soon be resolved, I assumed. On Saturday morning I began to realize that all was not going as I’d hoped, so I began to send text messages and make phone calls, but got no response until around noon. We were told to go buy drinking water in the store, but that was not very practical for other necessities. Since I was going through a bout of intestinal difficulty, I was about to go down to the river next to my apartment and get a bucket of water to flush with. Eventually I got a return call telling me to meet a student who would take me to the appropriate office close by to make the payment and get the water turned on again. After an awkward discussion, several more phone calls, and my insistence that the water be turned back on to all of the apartments in the building, and not just my own, they told me it was the weekend but it would be done in an hour. After two hours I called again and was told that the man was waiting for the rain stop. Eventually, around 4:00 pm the valve was turned back on. Fortunately, I keep my bottles of boiled water numbered for just such an emergency.

   

This little vignette is somewhat symbolic of my relationship with my supervisor, whose job is to make sure that all goes according to contract. I am usually the one who goes to bat for the other foreign teachers, which often results in a satisfactory resolution of the problem but also gives me the reputation of a trouble maker and an agitator for change. I figure that if I am persistent, the unjust judge will eventually give me what I need, even if it produces the impression that I do not give proper deference expected by a Party member from an underling, and a foreigner to boot. So it was not a big surprise that the administration decided not to renew my contract for next year (coincidentally I found this out at the same time as I gave her the water bill notice). But perhaps being open about my faith, discussing taboo political topics with students, insisting on following the contract and persistent advocacy for my students were also contributing factors. My contract expires at the end of June, along with my resident permit that allows me to stay in the country. So I will need to leave China during finals week which does not give me a lot of time to finish oral exams, submit grades, pack my stuff and remove it from this apartment to my next location – wherever that may be.

   

When I wrote you last month I was planning on teaching here for another year with the same students that I have this year, so I was disappointed to have to change my plans rather abruptly. My job search via phone, internet and email for the last three weeks has resulted in four solid offers (so far) to sign a contract for next year. At the same time, I have been praying for guidance to lead me to the right place and make the best choice based on the limited information that I can get from various sources in English. As of yesterday, I have made a tentative choice as to which offer to accept and now all I need to do is sign the printed contract, scan it and send it back via email attachment. But I continue to pray for assurance before making a commitment for the next year.

   

This afternoon I am meeting a couple of students who asked to go with me for a long bike ride outside the city. It is somewhat ironic that I will be showing them the places where I have already gone but they have not yet ventured. Fortunately the steady rain of yesterday has given way to sunshine and a cool breeze. After that I will meet a man downtown, who has asked me to teach some of his students in an English school that he has recently started. I will see if his schedule will coincide with mine. It is another chance for me to learn by experience in a new setting and earn some pocket money. The opportunities that come my way are surprising and often don’t last very long for various reasons. So I hate to turn down the chance to try something new and challenging to my teaching abilities and add to my previous experience. Unfortunately I have only a few weeks left here to explore the possibilities.

   

At English Corner on Thursday I met several students from my class last year and invited them to come over to my apartment for a spaghetti dinner this evening. The students are always eager to try some American style food and “Italian noodles” are close enough to what they normally eat. I can buy the imported spaghetti and sauce at the local Walmart and cook it in my small kitchen with other local ingredients to make a reasonable facsimile. I only wish I could find Romano or Parmesan cheese to go with it since the supply that I brought back with me from the US has been consumed on previous occasions. I can fit 4 or 5 guests around my coffee table in the sitting room/office where I can play music from my computer and speakers in order to enjoy the friendship they have offered me. The students and teachers I have invited are always very gracious and complimentary toward my efforts at cooking since it is unusual for a man (and a teacher) to offer this sort of hospitality. They also enjoy looking around my apartment and relaxing in my back yard in the hammock among the palm trees and bamboo. Since the weather was great we ate outside until the darkness and bugs drove us back inside.

   

Now that I am facing a new future, I am eager to make the change to see other parts of China with different culture, climate and people. Perhaps I have become too comfortable and complacent here and I need to stretch my faith in God’s provision for me. I have chafed under the oppressive atmosphere at this college and I am hopeful that in time I will see his purpose in taking me through this valley. To paraphrase Paul in 2Cor 8-10: “I want you to be aware of the hardships I have suffered in this province in Asia. I was under such great pressure that at times I had lost hope. In fact I felt in my heart a sentence of death. But this happened so that I would not rely on my own strength, but on the Resurrection and the Life. He has delivered me from this hopeless situation and he will continue to deliver me. I have set my hope on his promise to keep on delivering me.” Hallelujah! God willing, I will go to the city of Hangzhou in September and spend the next year there teaching English, earning my salary and sowing seeds. (James 4:13-15) More on that next time.

   

I am finishing my series of classes on the movie Titanic. It has provided me an opportunity to point out many expressions of faith in the plot, dialogue and the music. For example, when Jack says “I am on God’s good humor.” I interpret that as an expression of his reliance of God’s provision for the future. When he says “Life is a gift and I don’t plan on wasting it,” it indicates that God is the giver of life and we have a responsibility to “make it count” for him. The popular theme song also expresses faith in an afterlife. “There’s nothing I fear, I believe that the heart does go on.” Faith is also expressed in the church service on the last day before the sinking and in the prayer of the priest as he quotes from Revelation and looks forward to “a new heaven and a new earth.” Jack can also be seen as a savior since he gives up his life for Rose and she says, “But now you know that there was a man named Jack Dawson and that he saved me in every way that a person can be saved.” There is also an example of lack of faith when Cal says, “God himself cannot sink this ship.” Director James Cameron has said he intended to depict the end of the world in microcosm. While not exactly the gospel, these offer an opportunity to discuss religious topics in class to students who have been indoctrinated with atheism. I pray that from such small seeds, faith can grow.

   

The influence and popularity of American culture is evident everywhere and hard to miss. From the never ending basketball games that occupy the fourteen courts and backboards that I see every day on my way to classes, to the popularity of faded jeans and tee-shirts emblazoned with fake designer brand names and other random English words. I am the only one on campus who wears shirts and hats with Chinese characters on them. That fits my status as a foreigner trying to honor the host culture that has shifted dramatically in the past couple of decades. Many of my students have watched more American TV shows and movies than I have (since they are freely available to download from the internet), and they know the characters names and personalities too. (Curiously, the most popular line from Titanic in China, which I frequently hear is, “You jump, I jump.” In the U.S. it is “I’m the king of the world!”) When I ask students what their dreams are, the most common response is, to go to America to study, or just to see places they have seen on their video screens. One of my quirks is to try to decipher the English words and letters printed on clothing since it is somewhat altered from the original, either intentionally or in error. Often the words and letters seem to be chosen without rhyme or reason. Most Chinese have no idea what the English words mean, just as many Americans have no idea what the Chinese characters say on their clothes and accessories. So are these people victims of fashion or willing participants in a bizarre cosmic joke? Either way, it brings a smile to my face.

   

Last month I mentioned that my mother’s has cancer is no longer treatable after over 20 years of successful treatment and she is expected to live only few more weeks. I had accepted that I may not see her again in this life, but since then she has regained some strength and I am hopeful that I will be able to see her after finishing this semester. I am still exploring options for how to spend the two months of July and August between spring and fall semester. I am open to suggestions and offers of hospitality. Perhaps this is a time to try to reconnect with members of my family whom I have not seen for many years.

   

Thank-you for praying with me,

 

Tim

  

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On Saturday, April 12, 2014 2:15 PM, "robertsontim66@gmail.com" wrote:

 

Dear Friends and Family,

 

I am have been experiencing internet connection problems for several days so I am not sure when I will be able to send this off, but as always, I do what I can and hope for the best.

 

Now that I have started my second year, classes are easier because I am able to reuse some of the lesson material that I created last year. I have to adapt them to my students on this campus who have lower English skills and don’t seem to be quite as motivated, but I enjoy the challenge. My students have become somewhat accustomed to my unorthodox teaching methods and my expectations of them. After many weeks I have gotten them to put away their mobile phones, and text books, and take notes in a notebook. That is the bargain I have struck with them, since they would much prefer using American movies as a source of dialogue than using their text, which is designed to teach British English to students in the UK. I have just finished a three week series using the Disney/Pixar video of Brave, which focuses on a mother daughter relationship and whether to follow tradition. Since 90% of my classes are made up of young women who are the first in their families to go to college, this is something they can all relate to on a personal level.

 

Next week I plan on starting a series on Titanic since it is a popular movie in China and many of the students have already seen it. Hopefully the level of difficulty will not be too high but I feel it is better to use real actors than animated characters, which I have used so far. I also choose popular songs to go with the plot of the stories from ones they have requested and written down for me in the attendance book that I pass around for them to mark. It usually takes three times before they feel ready to sing along, but repetition and review is part of the learning process. I also use short video clips of OMG!Meiyu that are produced by Voice of America and teach authentic language used by young people in American pop culture. The slang, idioms, and figures of speech are presented by a cute young American named Bai Jie (Jessica Beinecke) who speaks fluent Mandarin and has a large following on Weibo - the Chinese version of Facebook/Twitter. She is much more attractive and interesting to watch than me, so I use a couple of her three minute videos each week to help explain expressions related to the dialogue from the movie. I also find pictures and use music videos on the internet to help illustrate new concepts and settings. The combination of multi-media helps to produces images, sounds and scenarios so that I do a minimum of explaining and oral instruction. In addition, I make a list of new words and idioms from the script that I put up on the screen for them to write in their notebooks, along with the slang expressions, which I write on the chalk board.

 

After I show selected scenes from the movie with subtitles, and have them read the parts from the script (which I transcribe and project onto the screen) in groups. I then ask some of them to perform it in front of the class from a printed copy of the script, while the rest read along from the screen. In this way, they go over the same material three times. The visual images, pronunciation, context and plot are much better in communicating the meaning of the language than a textbook or a lecture on grammar or traditional memorization. This technique allows me to engage all of the students in the class all of the time without intimidation or embarrassment, since “losing face” is such a huge deterrent for them to speak up in class. I usually end the class by drawing parallels between the characters and situations in the movie to China and the students themselves. Thus, they learn English as well as how we share many things in common on a cultural and personal level. I teach each lesson eight times but I have to adapt and modify it each time according to how the students respond. By the end of the week I have the bugs worked out so that I can move seamlessly between the various programs and media in the right order and within the given time frame. The many hours spend preparing, finding and downloading pay off with greater enthusiasm and participation in the classroom.

 

I have started wearing short sleeved shirts as the weather warms and the bright green of new leaves appear on the various kinds of trees, especially the gingko and the dawn redwoods. The cherry blossoms are out and leaves are emerging on the bamboo and palm trees that I planted in my back patio area. I have strung up the hammock (that I bought in Qingdao last summer) between a tree and the concrete wall. I find it a relaxing way to end the day gazing up at the birds, moon and stars as they make their way through the tree branches in the evening. I listen to music with headphones or play my harmonica while tugging on a wire to keep swaying gently in the evening breeze. This reminds me of the many hours that I spent reading and relaxing at my home in the jungles of Peru many years ago, although I do miss the grand sweep of the Milky Way visible in the southern hemisphere.

 

The weather is also ideal for long rides out into the country side where the winter wheat is over a foot tall and the yellow rape seed is blooming in the fields and garden plots. The birds are singing to their mates, especially the black and white magpies which are as big as ravens and build onto their huge nests each year in the tops of the cottonwood trees. The air is full of the drifting fluff from the ever present cotton woods which is the primary tree planted for wood. On a recent ride I stopped to watch some men and women operating a large lathe to peel sheets off the logs, which are then cut put on racks in the yard to dry in the sun before being trucked off to be laminated. I was impressed at how much human labor was used and how small the logs were – usually less than a foot in diameter. The operators were happy to let me ride around and watch them at work, and even offered me a smoke. It was the first time I had observed this process although I have often seen the machinery and products along the road from a train or bus window. The physical exercise and the peaceful landscape, crowded with farms and villages give me a chance to see new aspects of life in this area which are good for body, heart and mind.

 

I have been gradually broadening my range of dishes that I can cook in my rudimentary kitchen equipped with only a hotplate, a microwave oven, a rice steamer and an electric tea kettle. As a result, I am finding it harder to shed the extra weight I gained during the winter when I spent many days without physical activity due to the weather and my travel itinerary. Perhaps I am also burning less calories in nervous energy that inevitably came with adapting to a new culture, profession and lifestyle. It seems I am continually moving around the cycle of tension, frustration, cynicism and complacency as a result of trying to solve various problems. I have learned to value the small progress in various areas from the classroom to my apartment and add to my knowledge of this strange and fascinating place called China. For instance, after eight months living in this apartment I was finally able to get my toilet bolted down to the floor. Now if it would only flush properly, stop flushing and refill the tank automatically! Each small victory encourages me to keep pushing for improvements on a personal or professional level. Although it does not seem like much, over time it adds up to significant progress.

 

Another interest I have is in teaching at a local pre-school one afternoon each week. I have finally realized that kids of this age are not impressed with technology and I have switched my focus to high touch. When I enter the room I go around to shake hands and greet them individually. At first, many were reluctant to extend their hands to me, but now they approach me and shake enthusiastically. When I leave at the end of class, I am surrounded by a crowd of three foot tall minions asking to shake hands and get a hug. Breaking the physical barrier also encourages them to speak and sing and dance with me even without the music and video on screen. Since most of my college students had never met or talked with a foreigner until my class, it is encouraging to see how quickly and easily three, four and five year-old children have adapted to me as their teacher – often, faster than college students. In China the old ways change very slowly but once the change has come on a personal level of experience, there is no going back. Building up familiarity, respect and credibility takes much time and effort, but it is the only way to open minds and hearts. In the same way I swing back and forth between empathy and impatience with my students and the pace of learning in the classroom, but the progress is evident and inevitable if I do not grow weary and lose heart.

 

There are many pleasant elements to life on campus, like the strains of instrumental melodies leaking out of the music building close to my apartment, and the family of feral cats that I feed on my back patio. (Thanks to Greg, my upstairs neighbor who buys their food.) They have gotten used to me giving them food and water, hanging up my laundry and hanging out in my hammock. So much so, that if I do not close my door, some of them will venture inside looking for more food. Somewhat less enjoyable is the chanting that comes from athletic field and vocal warm-ups of voice lessons starting around 6:00. I have gotten used to the frequent honking and the sound of fireworks going off at all times of the day or night. The students’ attire is also changing with the seasons and I am becoming accustomed to seeing short girls in high heels and short skirts with long straight black hair. They enjoy shopping for the latest fashions in the stalls and street markets as well as the large department stores. So, they are more attractively and fashionably dressed than us fashion-challenged foreign teachers. To compensate, I try to wear a different hat to class each week to go along with the lesson – another visual aid.

 

Along with these bright spots comes news of my mother who has recently returned home from the hospital and has been put on hospice care. The medications that she has been taking for the last twenty-five years are no longer effective and the cancer has spread from her breast to her lungs, diaphragm and liver. Unfortunately the cancer meds have also lowered her resistance to infection resulting in her stay at the hospital and taking high dosages of antibiotics. Her doctor estimates that she may have only two months left. I am trying to decide if I should return to Michigan to see her one last time, or for the funeral - as I did for my father about 18 months ago. I knew that when I visited her in early February that it might be the last time that I would see her. My oldest sister and her husband are there to help with another sister coming later from Canada to provide in-home care. The college administration has given me permission to go but I do not look forward to the time and rigors of travelling 10,000 miles there and back again, not to mention the costs. My younger sister has just begun to teach at an adult English training school in Shanghai and my older brother will soon be leaving for a job in Africa, but there will be many other family members who will be able to be there. So I am waiting to see what I should do and asking God for wisdom and guidance.

 

I hope you will pray along with me in this and many other matters that I face.

Looking forward to the resurrection,

Tim

 

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Tim Robertson's posts about his time as an English teacher in Anhui at the Fuyang Teachers College are uploaded at: www.flickr.com/photos/ray_mahoney/9114089397/in/photostream, www.flickr.com/photos/ray_mahoney/8302698850/in/photostream, www.flickr.com/photos/ray_mahoney/14217075257/in/photostream; www.flickr.com/photos/ray_mahoney/9012874492/

But I need to be loved - is that possible?