View allAll Photos Tagged Adjustment
Craftsman Adjustable Wrench, approximately 2.5 inches long. Hard to find.
- Available Original Image Size: 5120 x 3200 (recommended viewing).
- Image Aspect Ratio: 16:10.
- Info required by "I Shot My Macro This Way" group):
- Lighting: Halogen desk lamp aimed straight up at ceiling, about six feet away.
- Camera Support:
- Gitzo GT2540EX tripod, with 1.5" spiked feet.
- Acratech Ultimate/GV2 hybrid ballhead, with detented quick-release clamp.
- Really Right Stuff MPR-192 multipurpose rail.
- Camera, lens, and settings: See Tags (scroll down) and EXIF data.
On the occasion of my x0th birthday, here is one from many years earlier. I would guess late '70s when I was 20-something. Boy oh boy, I was skinny.
The photo was taken on film by one of my best loved brothers and digitized much later. (Notice that there is no exposure information in the EXIF data?)
At the time Bass Lake in Ontario (at least my Bass Lake) was 30' deep, with a further arm-length of organic sludge on the bottom. At the time I could breath hold dive all the way down to the bottom and still have some time left over to explore that layer a little. The water was quite clear, populated with bass and carp to about 1/3 of the way down and not overly subject to algae blooms in the spring and summer. I suspect it is mostly dead by now, as that trend was well established by the mid '80s.
You want some preload on that tiny spring!
-----> The tip of that tiny spring where the yellow arrow points to needs to have a small gap to that arm (preload!!). If it doesn't have this gap you need to loosen the allen bolt above (arrow), and while pushing on that arm to have the valve fully closed you can actually push the spring a little more to have it opened. Now thighten the allen bolt and it should leave that preload as described. Do it on both sides! There should be absolutely no play in the valves.
Made by weaving gutted paracord and a buckle from an old watchband. Still room for tweaking and improvement, but functional nonetheless...
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Today's adjustment turned on the light at the end of the tunnel. I got a powerchain on top which means we're in the home stretch. Also had another pan xray taken which the orthodontist seemed very pleased with. Although I don't share his enthusiasm, I do trust he knows what he's doing and I'd be lying if I said his confidence didn't rub off a little. I've been wearing these torture devices for 1.5 years now and they couldn't come off soon enough.
Unfortunately, today was apparently de-bracing day at the ortho's office and I was the only one without an invite. There was a big popcorn machine and a table full of goodies for the lucky ones. I walked out of the office sans popcorn, but with not only one, but three scheduled appointments. Powerchains appear to be high-maintenance !
I am very much looking forward to the day all of this is over and happy to know I'm almost there !
Made by weaving gutted paracord and a buckle from an old watchband. Still room for tweaking and improvement, but functional nonetheless...
Copyright 2012 C. Michael McCall / Mike McCall Photography.
St. Patrick's Rugby Tournament, Daffin Park, Savannah, Georgia.
businessman adjusting tie - Cropped image of a businessman adjusting tie, MUA: Thao Nguyen, Clothing Stylist: Tanya Rudolpho. To Download this image without watermarks for Free, visit: www.sourcepics.com/free-stock-photography/24723869-busine...
A shot of the Irish Traction Group (ITG) rail tour to Sligo crawling through Maynooth on it's way home early on Saturday night. This was a big railtour, going all the way to Sligo, and even taking a break in Dromod to visit the steam railway there. It was supposed to be a farewell to the 141 class, but unfortunately the 141 locos penciled in for the task were not working well enough to risk such a long trip. So, the tour was pulled by a lone 071 class loco instead. This is number 078 and it's one of the few 017s still in the orange and black Irish Rail livery. It may be a more classic livery, but it's in really really bad shape. I'd have preferred a freshly painted 071. The coaching stock was from the RPSI. The water in the foreground is the Royal Canal.
This was really pushing the limits of my gear. I shot this at ISO 800 (as high as I dare go on the D40) with my F1.4 lens wide open and the exposure dropped down to just 1/100 of a second (didn't dare go slower on a moving train). I used the Topaz Adjust 4 plugin to recover more brightness from the shot by subtly tonemapping the shot (Adaptive exposure in Topaz lingo), and also used Topaz deNoise to try battle the noise a little.
Images of sewing, embroidery and quilting projects made with BERNINA accessories. For more information please visit www.bernina.com
About 19 Lifestyle-Film Lightroom & Camera Raw Presets:
19 Lifestyle-Film Lightroom & Camera Raw Presets is the first pack of professional Lightroom Presets perfect for photographers and graphic designers. All they have been created with precise calibration adjustments and clean arrangement to bring your images to life using powerful tools & professional methods.
Very important features:
19 Premium Presets tested in Lightroom & Camera Raw
Professional and unique result achievable in one click
100% non-destructive, we have been tasted them on different photos, and the results is awesome
Easy to use, just one click + Instalation file + powerful support if needed
This presets don’t change the WB (White Balance) of your image, they work with color, exposure, contrast, whites, blacks etc. This means that if your WB is okay, they do almost the same effect as on the preview image, and this is awesome.
No camera calibration profiles needed
Included 19 Lifestyle-Film Lightroom & Camera Raw Presets
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 01A
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 01A –
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 01A +
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 02B
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 02B -
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 02B +
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 03C
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 03C –
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 03C +
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 04D
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 04D –
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 04D +
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 05E
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 05E -
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 05E +
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 06F
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 06F -
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 06F +
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 06F ++
The file type: .lrtemplate & .xmp
Designed to be used with: DNG,PSD, RAW, JPG, TIFF
Lightroom & Camera Raw: 4.x or above
Helpful Instalation file added
...i can't wait to steam all the wrinkles out. it's the best part.
the zipper on this bodice was absolute. hell. i don't really know why. for every finished costume i've sewn about 12 zippers; you think there'd be a learning curve. nope. i'm just not paying attention EVERY DAMN time.
businessman adjusting sunglasses - Portrait of a businessman adjusting sunglasses over white background. Model: Nathaniel Stevenson. To Download this image without watermarks for Free, visit: www.sourcepics.com/free-stock-photography/24715463-busine...
Previous: Decoding the raw files
The goal at this stage is to stretch the histogram as wide as possible across the the available dynamic range of the output image. For this picture, the value of 1.2 does it; I simply go ahead and type it into the Exposure Value box. Alternatively, I could slide the slider, but I am used enough to the EV numbers that I can just dial the approximate number right away, and then adjust it with a couple clicks on either side of the slider, if it is not right — that saves me mouse travel.
If you don't know right away how much to adjust the exposure value, move the slider to the right until the image becomes overxposed (the second line from the bottom, now showing 0.0% will show a non-zero number), and the bright spots on the image will start looking awful. Then step back until the number becomes zero again. Then, look at the histogram and if it has a sharp spike at the bright edge, step back some more. Too many pixels aggregating at the bright edge, even though not technically overexposed, will make the picture look bland. Keep moving away from the threshold of overexposure until the histogram tapers off smoothly, as the blue histogram does in the above image. That is not always possible, but a properly exposed image should allow you to do shape the histogram this way.
Did I tell you to enable the histogram view while taking the pictures? This is the reason why. This is how the histogram should have looked in the camera while the picture was taken, but I was almost facing the sun when I took it and could not see it too well. Another bit of advice following from this:
- have a piece of dark fabric to throw over your head when the ambient light is too bright
And something I came to take for granted:
- use the lens hood
This picture came out reasonably well in part because the camera had the lens hood on it. Without it, shooting at such a close angle to the sun would produce unsightly reflexes. I never take the hood off, by the way. It improves contrast in any light (if only a bit), and it protects the lens from bumping into things; I have never had to wipe my fingerprints from this lens because the hood eliminates the possibility of accidental contact.
The procedure for normalising the highlights I just described is likely to affect the darks. So, once satisfied with the highlights (in this case, in the sky), check the bottom of the range by pushing the Indicate button in the underexposed values row. What do we see here? It's looking pretty good. The only severely underexposed area is the shadow under the car, which is not important. That spot can be as dark as a black hole, for all I care. There is also an insignificant number of underexposed values elsewhere in the image — 0.7% including the shadow under the car; that's close to nothing, so whe can move on to the next stage.
The image still does not look right. The highlights in the sky are fine, but the mountain looks as if it was painted in ink. The darks are darker than they should be. That is because the standard gamma curve, which would work well with a picture shot in the daylight, is too shallow to reproduce the sunset lighting correctly.