One of the cardboard spacers contained:

• Two plastic replacement vents

• USB cable

• Replacement data cable

• UK power cord

johnbiehler.com/2012/05/16/tantillus-3d-printer-is-now-av...

johnbiehler.com/2012/05/16/tantillus-3d-printer-is-now-av...

It is VERY important that this switch is on the correct setting BEFORE plugging in the printer!

Turning the machine on its back reveals

the bottom cover and the power supply

unit. The switch is still not readable.

Not printed in 2 colors, just 2 parts.

Ensamblaje de una impresora Prusa i3

RepRap Prusa i3 3D Printers from BotBuilder.net

The cable ties and bubble warp that are

securing the gantry must be cut.

This model was printed on the UP! 3D Printer via www.3Dprintingsystems.com

Remanufactured version of a stake for our garden lights. Printed in two pieces on the MakerGear Prusa Mendel RepRap.

jobie.me/thingomatic

Still waiting on some more parts (PLA bushings, RAMPS electronics, heated print bed and a few other little things) but the frame is built and is solid. Opted for the 'army green' for the printed pieces...turned out pretty nice.

jobie.me/prusa

September 29th and 30th, at New York Hall of Science

Interesting, I hadn't seen one in person yet. No idea if the part in it was printed on it, but the layer height on it looked great.

Prototipo final impreso en 3D

0.25mm layer height

80mm/s perimeters

100mm/s infill

ABS

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PHOTO PAULINA FRACZEK

KRAKOW

WARSZTAT 3d KREATOR

N/Z WARSZTAT

2015-12-11

3DKREATOR DRUK WARSZTAT WYDRUK

To fasten the extrusion head, the 2.5mm

allen key and two M3x12 bolts are needed.

This is not specified in the manual, so one

must try all the bolts.

Measuring a print off my MakerBot. Exactly 2cm, like it should be.

Find out more - 3dprinterforum.org/

The first test resulted in an offset between

left and right extruded parts.

Removing the bottom cover reveals the

circuitry and everything seems very

accessible for maintenance.