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14 wires total:
4 x stepper motor
2 x thermocouple
2 x heater core
2 x heatsink fan
2 x endstop switch (Common & NO contacts)
2 x print cooling fan
The X endstop switch (green & black wires, right edge of carriage) has only the common (C) and normally open (NO) contacts wired. These two wires will be routed back to a Makerbot v1.2 endstop PCB which has had its switch removed. REMOVE the switch from the PCB to prevent shorting the 5V and ground rails. Note that the normally closed (NC) contact is not wired. On the endstop PCB it is only used with the LED indicator circuit; it is not essential to the endstop's operation.
Note also that the endstop switch is here affixed with a wire tie. It is also possible to use two 2-56 bolts. The head of at least one bolt -- the one closest to the linear bearing -- must be on the underside of the carriage; otherwise, the bolt will interfere with the bearing.
This particular roller switch was purchased via Amazon, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052RTOTY/ref=oh_details_o07_s...
Top view of the XY plate with the heat spreader bar mounted. The M6 bolt should not project past the hex nut; otherwise, it may interfere with the face of the extruder stepper motor. Also, try to get the hex nut parallel with the long edge of the heat spreader bar. This also helps prevent any interference with the face of the stepper motor.
14 wires total:
4 x stepper motor
2 x thermocouple
2 x heater core
2 x heatsink fan
2 x endstop switch (Common & NO contacts)
2 x print cooling fan
Short XY Plate cut from 3mm thick aluminum plate. Short XY plate is based upon the DXF cut file,
xstageshort.dxf
found as a download of Thingiverse Thing 252041,
www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
Use the short XY plate if you have a short NEMA17 stepper motor such as those MBI uses for their extruders. If you have a stepper motor with a bigger stack, then you may need to use xstagequ_bd.dxf.
The aluminum heat spreader bars are the proper 0.5 inch thick ones MBI uses on the Replicator 1 and 2 series. They provide far more contact area with the thermal barrier tube than the Mk7 style heat spreader bar. Unfortunately, a number of the Mk-style extruder kits provide the Mk7's thinner heat spreader bar (e.g., QU-BD's MBE v9). If you plan on extruding PLA, you want the thicker bar! Otherwise, you will likely experience jams on long duration prints.
Robotdigg.com and dealextreme sell the thicker bars BUT only one of the holes is tapped for M6 threads. Use that hole for the thermal barrier tube. The other hole is smooth bored and will accept a M6 bolt. Cut a M6 bolt to a length of 19 mm. (I do it by threading 4 M6 hex nuts on, cutting flush to the fourth nut, filing the cut end, then removing the nuts. (Having the nuts on helps you clean the cut threads after cutting.)
A hand cut slot has been made in the XY plate with which to affix the heat spreader bar using the cut M6 bolt and a thin M6 hex nut.
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
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14 wires total:
4 x stepper motor
2 x thermocouple
2 x heater core
2 x heatsink fan
2 x endstop switch (Common & NO contacts)
2 x print cooling fan
Fused power inlet, front view. This particular inlet is a Corcom PE0SSSSX0 (Digikey CCM1384-ND) which is rated 10A @ 120VAC, fused, and filtered. It's overkill for this application but I happen to have a few of them and it's convenient to use the same unit everywhere.
Two safety grounds: one to mount to a filed down section of the frame (for good electrical contact), the other to run to the power supply. All four AC wires present as the switch is designed to interface to a 115/240 VAX PSU with the voltage selector on the PSU. The outside wires on the connector are the 115 hot and neutral.
WanHao LCD (connector at a better angle)
FlashForge button & SD card module (better job of assembling the pard with the buttons perpendicular to the board)
Ribbon connector is also from WanHao.
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬