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Left: Maximum build size on a MakerBot Replicator 1: 150mm
Right: Near maximum build size on the Unofficial ReplicatorXL: 248mm (I think it can go to 255 or so)
Custom Replicator case increases build height by 100mm.
I reworked this image as a bit darker than the one I uploaded this morning.
Camera used for this shot was the Pinhead 3D printed pinhole camera - focal length = 90mm with a 0.40mm pinhole, using Ilford Ortho Plus @64ASA, processed in D76 stock solution. Neg was scanned, imported into Lightroom and finished with the Silver Efex Pro2 plugin.
Changed the design on the side panels as well to match the Replicator 2 style.
Custom Replicator case increases build height by 100mm.
Fused power inlet. This particular inlet is a Corcom PE0SSSSX0 (Digikey CCM1384-ND) which is rated 10A @ 120VAC, fused, and filtered. It's overkill for this application but I happen to have a few of them and it's convenient to use the same unit everywhere.
The X endstop switch (green & black wires, right edge of carriage) has only the common (C) and normally open (NO) contacts wired. These two wires will be routed back to a Makerbot v1.2 endstop PCB which has had its switch removed. REMOVE the switch from the PCB to prevent shorting the 5V and ground rails. Note that the normally closed (NC) contact is not wired. On the endstop PCB it is only used with the LED indicator circuit; it is not essential to the endstop's operation.
Note also that the endstop switch is here affixed with a wire tie. It is also possible to use two 2-56 bolts. The head of at least one bolt -- the one closest to the linear bearing -- must be on the underside of the carriage; otherwise, the bolt will interfere with the bearing.
This is my first test of my Pinhead 4X5 pinhole camera, a design for 3D printers. (Yes, I printed this myself, at home. The design is available on Thingiverse at: www.thingiverse.com/thing:143882 )
I had a film holder loaded with Ilford Multigrade paper already, so I used that for this test. I put very little effort into framing the shot because I knew it was going to take 15 minutes or more and the sun was setting! So, this is a hastily composed photo, just for the sake of evaluating the "lens" and the camera itself. (Yes, I made the brass shim pinhole myself: approximately f235)
Post-processing was done with Lightroom and the Silver Efex Pro2 plugin.
A genuine Makerbot extruder stepper motor, genuine Makerbot pinch gears, and a machined, aluminum filament feeder from the eBay seller cre8it. As of this writing, 6 July 2014, Makerbot is still selling these motors and pinch gears. They do charge a premium for the motors -- $30 USD -- but if you want a small motor, this is the ticket. You may be able to find a comparable motor elsewhere for less.
These aluminum filament feeders from cre8it are largely based upon Wingcommander's design,
We got a 3D printer at work.
We're still trying out how it works best
This is the first object with 1/8 mm resolution, an owl made of ABS on a Lego brick from Thingyverse.
15. Januar 2013
Phonecam
Bottom view of the XY plate with the heat spreader bar mounted. You may prefer to use a socket cap head bolt: this philips head may well interfere with the heater block. Will depend upon the style of heater block you choose to use.
Edge view of the XY plate, heat spreader bar, and heater block with nozzle.
If you have some heatsink grease, use a small amount of it on the nuts. Apply a very thin layer of it to the nut faces which face the heat spreader bar as well as to their threads. That will further help transfer heat from the thermal barrier tube to the heat spreader bar.
Assembled extruder with heatsink and 24 VDC fan, side view.
Be sure to use a 40 x 40mm 24 VDC fan. MBI uses approximately a 5 CFM fan, but you can get much better, quieter fans which move more air (higher CFM). The fan shown is approximately 7 CFM. Note arrows molded into the side of the fan and orient the fan such that it blows towards the heatsink.