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Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
SVENSKA:
Den personliga fabbster 3D-skrivare från Sintermask.
Läs mer på: fabbster.creativetools.se
ENGLISH:
The personal 3D printer fabbster from Sintermask
Two things not in the photo: our 100 page printed manual, and the USB stick that comes with pre-configured firmware, settings for slic3r, and sample STL files. www.botbuilder.net
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
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X and Y stepper motors are Kysan 1124090. Available from Ultimachine. Like the Z stepper motor, these motors require more current than the standard Makerbot X and Y stepper motors. You will need to use modified stepper drivers.
Let's see:
- Minimalistic MK8 Extruder (Dual): www.thingiverse.com/thing:28241
- Beefed Up Replicator Extruder Bracket: www.thingiverse.com/thing:33589
- (Unofficial) Replicator XL Case: www.thingiverse.com/thing:33265
- Replicator HBP Support Upgrade: www.thingiverse.com/thing:35059
- RepXL Panels and Doors: www.thingiverse.com/thing:33269
- Replicator 3mm Hood and Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:23386
Probably some other things I've forgotten.
Z motor, lead screw, and acme nut from Kysan. Part number is 1040094. Requires more current than the normal Makerbot Z stepper motor. You should use a modified stepper driver.
Thermistor circuit with CD-ROM audio connector wiring (MPC-2 connector).
For $5.60 US you can order three of these boards from OSH Park. That includes free shipping within the USA. Note that OSH Park always sells in units of three. The URL is
oshpark.com/shared_projects/HTTIQlfd
The sole required component (beyond the 100K NTC thermistor itself) is one 4.7K resistor which you can likely buy at a Radio Shack (Digikey S4.7KCACT-ND). The optional components are a 0.1 uF capacitor (Digikey 339-4151-ND), a MPC-2 connector (CD-ROM audio; Molex 0705550038; Digikey WM4177-ND), and a two position screw down terminal (Phoenix 1729128; Digikey 277-1247-ND).
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
14 wires total:
4 x stepper motor
2 x thermocouple
2 x heater core
2 x heatsink fan
2 x endstop switch (Common & NO contacts)
2 x print cooling fan
The X endstop switch (green & black wires, right edge of carriage) has only the common (C) and normally open (NO) contacts wired. These two wires will be routed back to a Makerbot v1.2 endstop PCB which has had its switch removed. REMOVE the switch from the PCB to prevent shorting the 5V and ground rails. Note that the normally closed (NC) contact is not wired. On the endstop PCB it is only used with the LED indicator circuit; it is not essential to the endstop's operation.
Note also that the endstop switch is here affixed with a wire tie. It is also possible to use two 2-56 bolts. The head of at least one bolt -- the one closest to the linear bearing -- must be on the underside of the carriage; otherwise, the bolt will interfere with the bearing.
This particular roller switch was purchased via Amazon, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052RTOTY/ref=oh_details_o07_s...