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This was my first time shooting fire dancers/spinners at night. Some post processing was required to get the results seen here.
I used my Nikon D600 with a Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 "APO" macro lens with internal focus motor ($100 used on eBay).
I have a bunch of other shots of the firedancers in this set- check 'em out if'n ya like this sort of thang.
This is my Clausing model 5912 engine lathe, built in 1968 or so.
I bought it used from a seller in SE New Hampshire in 2003, for only $600.
It shows very little wear, and has a flame-hardened bed.
I brought it back to Northern New York, towed behind by Dad's 1988 Isuzu Trooper II, in a 1970's vintage DIY utility trailer.
12.25-inch swing, 36-inches between centers.
It was originally equipped with a 1HP three-phase motor and a hydraulically-controlled variable-speed spindle drive. I am replacing the original drive and motor with a new three-phase 7.5HP direct-drive motor and a 480V VFD (Variable Frequency Drive).
Norman LH2000 flashtube, as lit by three more of the same model tube. This one was inside my photo tent, illuminated from each side, with the backdrop blasted out to nearly pure white by the third tube.
Each one of these tubes can handle up to 2,400 Joules of energy, about 240 times as much as the little flashtube in your point&shoot digital or disposable film camera.
The LED "flash" in your smartphone works on a totally different principle- there is no easy direct comparison to a strobe, except perhaps the brightness in Lumens. This is not a measure of total light energy output, but is still interesting. Newer smartphones might have an LED with about 50 Lumens of brightness, perhaps a bit more.
This flashtube, on the other hand, would be WAY into the millions of Lumens, though for a far shorter duration than the LED, so the total energy (exposure) difference is not as great as implied by the vast difference in instantaneous output.
The very short duration of a strobe is why they're so useful for stopping motion, camera and/or subject.
This was my first time shooting fire dancers/spinners at night. Some post processing was required to get the results seen here.
I used my Nikon D600 with a Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 "APO" macro lens with internal focus motor ($100 used on eBay).
I have a bunch of other shots of the firedancers in this set- check 'em out if'n ya like this sort of thang.
Oh, what fun these high quality Tamiya models are to build! Photo was shot with a Sigma 10-20mm ultra wide angle lens.
Where did he go? I just saw the glint of his lens a moment ago!
Samyang 500mm F/8 preset lens, handheld.
Heavily cropped from six megapixel image. I'm not much of a birder, and have not yet developed the patience and skill it takes to get close enough to a wee bird, even with a 750mm equivalent lens...
She nailed it! Henry 22 at 180 yards! She's only been shootin' a couple times. One amazing woman!
IMG_7581
AK Hellpup 7.62x39
Pioneer Arms
Radom, Poland
I.O. Inc. Monroe, N.C.
www.uspalm.com (grip)
www.rifledynamics.com T's, Jim Fuller's Armorer's Bench video
www.tactical tailor.com cover/hat
www.gadsdenand culpeper.com U.S.Navy Jack flag patch
Samyang / Rokinon 8mm f/3.5 fisheye lens.
The lens hood has been “shaved” to allow a nearly full circle image to be captured.
This scene was in the Ash Creek Wildlife Area in Big Valley, California.
In Lassen County, between Bieber and Adin.
This wee critter was on a concrete slab by the hot tubs here in northeastern California (Lassen County). This grasshopper was well under an inch long. It was patient enough to let me poke a huge camera lens within an inch or less of his face for long enough to take a bunch of photos.
To make this image, I used my Nikon D50 DSLR with an old 50mm F/1.8 Nikkor prime lens, mounted on a stack of extension tubes to get such close focusing.
This method is a cheap and effective way to get extreme close-ups, but it's difficult to use. There is no autofocus or exposure metering. The lens aperture must be set to a very small F stop to get even the miserably shallow depth of field seen here. And because the camera has no control of the lens diaphragm when the lens is mounted out on my basic-model extension tubes, focusing is difficult (due to a very dark view through the prism with the lens diaphragm stopped down).
Focusing is not done with the lens's focusing ring, you move the camera closer or farther from the subject until the most important part of your subject looks sharp on the ground glass.
Exposure is done by "chimping", which is guessing at the correct setting, then viewing the result on the camera's LCD screen, then correcting for the next shot.
All this inconvenience is not worth the bother for regular macro use, since a real macro lens would allow autofocus, automatic exposure and even vibration reduction for sharper results. But a nice 105mm VR macro lens for my Nikon would cost nearly $1,000, and the basic extension tube set I used costs less than $10 on eBay...