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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
Pseudorchis albida: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pseudorchis_albida
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers.
Planpincieux provided our first opportunity for eating out (and for Simon and Ben to have a break), and on their recommendation we went to Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
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Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers.
Planpincieux provided our first opportunity for eating out (and for Simon and Ben to have a break), and on their recommendation we went to Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
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Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
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16531 AJMER - KSR BANGALORE GARIB NAWAZ EXPRESS overtaking my AHMEDABAD - VADODARA INTERCITY at RANOLI behind the hunk from HUBLI i.e. WDP4 #20025 towards Vadodara Jn.
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
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Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
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Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
(According to Richard Jones' photos, the bare slab is Li Blanche.)
DSC05132
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05365
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05141
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05143
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05262
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05292
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05233
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05389
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05133
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05208
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05252
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers.
Planpincieux provided our first opportunity for eating out (and for Simon and Ben to have a break), and on their recommendation we went to Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05173
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05266
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05210
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05156
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05217
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05206
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05290
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05254
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05268
I think the peak is the Tour Noir, and the ridge is the l'A Neuve cirque.
===============================
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05158
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05142
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05291
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05162
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05222
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05209
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05265
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05185
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05157
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05260
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers.
Planpincieux provided our first opportunity for eating out (and for Simon and Ben to have a break), and on their recommendation we went to Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05178
Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
DSC05150
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05183