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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Monday 16 July 2012: Les Frasserands - Aiguillette des Posettes (1,997m) - Col de Balme (2,191m), cross from France into Switzerland - descend to Le Peuty (1,326m)
Day 3 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
We woke to blue skies, the overnight rain having cleared the clouds. It left the lush green grass of Camping Les Frasserands soaking wet, so wrangling the tent into its bag provided a second morning ablution. The mountains were magnificent - white snow caps against bright blue skies, jagged grey peaks gradienting into the greens of the fir trees and alpine grass cover. We could just make out the cable car lines stretching up towards the peak at Les Grands Montets (3,295m).
After breakfast in the open barn we'd camped by, and baguette sandwich making from the vast array of fillings, we were off. Having retraced our steps past the picturesque village and Heidi farms, Simon paused at the signpost that marked the start of the day's climb up to the Aiguillette des Posettes and thence to the Col de Balme.
Waiora and I took it easy up the footpath through the forested slopes that cover the ridge, spotting flowers and butterflies en route, eventually emerging alongside the high grasses and flowers in the alpine meadows which led up to our first rendezvous with Simon, at a rocky outcrop which provided a great vantage point for beautiful views back down the Chamonix valley, and up at the various Aiguilles that tower above Argentière.
Up above the treeline, the path climbed wooden steps pinned onto rocks, with stunning views of the mountains, including a clearer view of yesterday's Aiguilles Rouges, the Vallorcine valley and the barrage d'Émosson (Émosson dam and resevoir) to the left; and to the right, Les Grands Montets and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m) and the Aiguille du Tour (3,540 m) embracing the glacier du Tour.
We do-si-doed with the hotel group along the final stretch along the ridge that took us to the Col des Posettes where we took panorama after panorama of beautiful vistas before dropping down amongst the Alpine Roses and wildflower meadows with a dispersed herd of classic Milka cows. A short stiff climb back up took us over the Col de Balme and out of France and into Switzerland. We picnicked late and illicitly at the Refuge de Balme, supplemented by an overpriced 3€, lukewarm cup of tea from our less than gracious hostess. Switzerland stretched out in front of us and in the patch of snow below a party of Koreans who had made the ascent on the Charamillon-Balme cablecar took photos, and a hardy few tried their hand at sledge-free sledging.
An easy path led us slowly but surely down back to the tree line and eventually into the meadows of Le Peuty (1,326m) near the head of the Trient valley.
The campsite at Le Peuty was classified as one of the two 'wilderness' ones on the itinerary. I'd call it 'basic' - it's set up and run as a campsite, located next to the public loos and with a covered seating/kitchen area. Boots off, I joined the rest of the group relaxing with beers and a fabulous view of the Trient Glacier which turned from blue to pink as the evening fell, providing a scenic backdrop for our half's first go at washing up, before turning in for a somewhat cold night's sleep under canvas.
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
Pulsatilla halleri (Haller's Pasque Flower): en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulsatilla
Gentiana angustifolia (Gentian): en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gentiana
Gentiana lutea (Great Yellow Gentian): en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gentiana_lutea
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Monday 16 July 2012: Les Frasserands - Aiguillette des Posettes (1,997m) - Col de Balme (2,191m), cross from France into Switzerland - descend to Le Peuty (1,326m)
Day 3 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
We woke to blue skies, the overnight rain having cleared the clouds. It left the lush green grass of Camping Les Frasserands soaking wet, so wrangling the tent into its bag provided a second morning ablution. The mountains were magnificent - white snow caps against bright blue skies, jagged grey peaks gradienting into the greens of the fir trees and alpine grass cover. We could just make out the cable car lines stretching up towards the peak at Les Grands Montets (3,295m).
After breakfast in the open barn we'd camped by, and baguette sandwich making from the vast array of fillings, we were off. Having retraced our steps past the picturesque village and Heidi farms, Simon paused at the signpost that marked the start of the day's climb up to the Aiguillette des Posettes and thence to the Col de Balme.
Waiora and I took it easy up the footpath through the forested slopes that cover the ridge, spotting flowers and butterflies en route, eventually emerging alongside the high grasses and flowers in the alpine meadows which led up to our first rendezvous with Simon, at a rocky outcrop which provided a great vantage point for beautiful views back down the Chamonix valley, and up at the various Aiguilles that tower above Argentière.
Up above the treeline, the path climbed wooden steps pinned onto rocks, with stunning views of the mountains, including a clearer view of yesterday's Aiguilles Rouges, the Vallorcine valley and the barrage d'Émosson (Émosson dam and resevoir) to the left; and to the right, Les Grands Montets and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m) and the Aiguille du Tour (3,540 m) embracing the glacier du Tour.
We do-si-doed with the hotel group along the final stretch along the ridge that took us to the Col des Posettes where we took panorama after panorama of beautiful vistas before dropping down amongst the Alpine Roses and wildflower meadows with a dispersed herd of classic Milka cows. A short stiff climb back up took us over the Col de Balme and out of France and into Switzerland. We picnicked late and illicitly at the Refuge de Balme, supplemented by an overpriced 3€, lukewarm cup of tea from our less than gracious hostess. Switzerland stretched out in front of us and in the patch of snow below a party of Koreans who had made the ascent on the Charamillon-Balme cablecar took photos, and a hardy few tried their hand at sledge-free sledging.
An easy path led us slowly but surely down back to the tree line and eventually into the meadows of Le Peuty (1,326m) near the head of the Trient valley.
The campsite at Le Peuty was classified as one of the two 'wilderness' ones on the itinerary. I'd call it 'basic' - it's set up and run as a campsite, located next to the public loos and with a covered seating/kitchen area. Boots off, I joined the rest of the group relaxing with beers and a fabulous view of the Trient Glacier which turned from blue to pink as the evening fell, providing a scenic backdrop for our half's first go at washing up, before turning in for a somewhat cold night's sleep under canvas.
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Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)
Day 5 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A relatively gentle day.
Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.
The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.
Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.
The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.
Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....
Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
DSC05617
Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
DSC05614
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
DSC05645
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05310
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05387
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Sincil Bank Stadium, the home of Lincoln City Football club since 1895 in Lincoln, Lincolnshire.
Previously, Lincoln City had played at the nearby John O'Gaunts ground since the club's 1884 inception. Sincil Bank has an overall capacity of 10,120 and is colloquially known to fans as "The Bank".
Former Lincoln City chairman John Reames re-purchased the ground from the Lincoln City Council in 2000 at a cost of £175,000. The club had sold it in 1982 for £225,000 in order to fend off the threat of eviction, arranging a 125-year lease.
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
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Pop star Miley Cyrus recently opened up about her sexuality and admitted that she is still "attracted to women. "I think it's very confusing to people that I'm married," the 26-year-old actress revealed in a candid interview given to a leading magazine.
www.indulgexpress.com/entertainment/celebs/2019/jul/16/im...
Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Monday 16 July 2012: Les Frasserands - Aiguillette des Posettes (1,997m) - Col de Balme (2,191m), cross from France into Switzerland - descend to Le Peuty (1,326m)
Day 3 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
We woke to blue skies, the overnight rain having cleared the clouds. It left the lush green grass of Camping Les Frasserands soaking wet, so wrangling the tent into its bag provided a second morning ablution. The mountains were magnificent - white snow caps against bright blue skies, jagged grey peaks gradienting into the greens of the fir trees and alpine grass cover. We could just make out the cable car lines stretching up towards the peak at Les Grands Montets (3,295m).
After breakfast in the open barn we'd camped by, and baguette sandwich making from the vast array of fillings, we were off. Having retraced our steps past the picturesque village and Heidi farms, Simon paused at the signpost that marked the start of the day's climb up to the Aiguillette des Posettes and thence to the Col de Balme.
Waiora and I took it easy up the footpath through the forested slopes that cover the ridge, spotting flowers and butterflies en route, eventually emerging alongside the high grasses and flowers in the alpine meadows which led up to our first rendezvous with Simon, at a rocky outcrop which provided a great vantage point for beautiful views back down the Chamonix valley, and up at the various Aiguilles that tower above Argentière.
Up above the treeline, the path climbed wooden steps pinned onto rocks, with stunning views of the mountains, including a clearer view of yesterday's Aiguilles Rouges, the Vallorcine valley and the barrage d'Émosson (Émosson dam and resevoir) to the left; and to the right, Les Grands Montets and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m) and the Aiguille du Tour (3,540 m) embracing the glacier du Tour.
We do-si-doed with the hotel group along the final stretch along the ridge that took us to the Col des Posettes where we took panorama after panorama of beautiful vistas before dropping down amongst the Alpine Roses and wildflower meadows with a dispersed herd of classic Milka cows. A short stiff climb back up took us over the Col de Balme and out of France and into Switzerland. We picnicked late and illicitly at the Refuge de Balme, supplemented by an overpriced 3€, lukewarm cup of tea from our less than gracious hostess. Switzerland stretched out in front of us and in the patch of snow below a party of Koreans who had made the ascent on the Charamillon-Balme cablecar took photos, and a hardy few tried their hand at sledge-free sledging.
An easy path led us slowly but surely down back to the tree line and eventually into the meadows of Le Peuty (1,326m) near the head of the Trient valley.
The campsite at Le Peuty was classified as one of the two 'wilderness' ones on the itinerary. I'd call it 'basic' - it's set up and run as a campsite, located next to the public loos and with a covered seating/kitchen area. Boots off, I joined the rest of the group relaxing with beers and a fabulous view of the Trient Glacier which turned from blue to pink as the evening fell, providing a scenic backdrop for our half's first go at washing up, before turning in for a somewhat cold night's sleep under canvas.
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
Acinos alpinus (Rock thyme): en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acinos_alpinus
Erigeron alpinus L (alpine fleabane): en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erigeron_alpinus
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Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05394
Monday 16 July 2012: Les Frasserands - Aiguillette des Posettes (1,997m) - Col de Balme (2,191m), cross from France into Switzerland - descend to Le Peuty (1,326m)
Day 3 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
We woke to blue skies, the overnight rain having cleared the clouds. It left the lush green grass of Camping Les Frasserands soaking wet, so wrangling the tent into its bag provided a second morning ablution. The mountains were magnificent - white snow caps against bright blue skies, jagged grey peaks gradienting into the greens of the fir trees and alpine grass cover. We could just make out the cable car lines stretching up towards the peak at Les Grands Montets (3,295m).
After breakfast in the open barn we'd camped by, and baguette sandwich making from the vast array of fillings, we were off. Having retraced our steps past the picturesque village and Heidi farms, Simon paused at the signpost that marked the start of the day's climb up to the Aiguillette des Posettes and thence to the Col de Balme.
Waiora and I took it easy up the footpath through the forested slopes that cover the ridge, spotting flowers and butterflies en route, eventually emerging alongside the high grasses and flowers in the alpine meadows which led up to our first rendezvous with Simon, at a rocky outcrop which provided a great vantage point for beautiful views back down the Chamonix valley, and up at the various Aiguilles that tower above Argentière.
Up above the treeline, the path climbed wooden steps pinned onto rocks, with stunning views of the mountains, including a clearer view of yesterday's Aiguilles Rouges, the Vallorcine valley and the barrage d'Émosson (Émosson dam and resevoir) to the left; and to the right, Les Grands Montets and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m) and the Aiguille du Tour (3,540 m) embracing the glacier du Tour.
We do-si-doed with the hotel group along the final stretch along the ridge that took us to the Col des Posettes where we took panorama after panorama of beautiful vistas before dropping down amongst the Alpine Roses and wildflower meadows with a dispersed herd of classic Milka cows. A short stiff climb back up took us over the Col de Balme and out of France and into Switzerland. We picnicked late and illicitly at the Refuge de Balme, supplemented by an overpriced 3€, lukewarm cup of tea from our less than gracious hostess. Switzerland stretched out in front of us and in the patch of snow below a party of Koreans who had made the ascent on the Charamillon-Balme cablecar took photos, and a hardy few tried their hand at sledge-free sledging.
An easy path led us slowly but surely down back to the tree line and eventually into the meadows of Le Peuty (1,326m) near the head of the Trient valley.
The campsite at Le Peuty was classified as one of the two 'wilderness' ones on the itinerary. I'd call it 'basic' - it's set up and run as a campsite, located next to the public loos and with a covered seating/kitchen area. Boots off, I joined the rest of the group relaxing with beers and a fabulous view of the Trient Glacier which turned from blue to pink as the evening fell, providing a scenic backdrop for our half's first go at washing up, before turning in for a somewhat cold night's sleep under canvas.
DSC05004
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05335
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05347
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05238
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05405
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05213
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05379
Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnuova (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 6 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.
We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.
After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.
A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.
The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.
DSC05288
Monday 16 July 2012: Les Frasserands - Aiguillette des Posettes (1,997m) - Col de Balme (2,191m), cross from France into Switzerland - descend to Le Peuty (1,326m)
Day 3 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
We woke to blue skies, the overnight rain having cleared the clouds. It left the lush green grass of Camping Les Frasserands soaking wet, so wrangling the tent into its bag provided a second morning ablution. The mountains were magnificent - white snow caps against bright blue skies, jagged grey peaks gradienting into the greens of the fir trees and alpine grass cover. We could just make out the cable car lines stretching up towards the peak at Les Grands Montets (3,295m).
After breakfast in the open barn we'd camped by, and baguette sandwich making from the vast array of fillings, we were off. Having retraced our steps past the picturesque village and Heidi farms, Simon paused at the signpost that marked the start of the day's climb up to the Aiguillette des Posettes and thence to the Col de Balme.
Waiora and I took it easy up the footpath through the forested slopes that cover the ridge, spotting flowers and butterflies en route, eventually emerging alongside the high grasses and flowers in the alpine meadows which led up to our first rendezvous with Simon, at a rocky outcrop which provided a great vantage point for beautiful views back down the Chamonix valley, and up at the various Aiguilles that tower above Argentière.
Up above the treeline, the path climbed wooden steps pinned onto rocks, with stunning views of the mountains, including a clearer view of yesterday's Aiguilles Rouges, the Vallorcine valley and the barrage d'Émosson (Émosson dam and resevoir) to the left; and to the right, Les Grands Montets and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m) and the Aiguille du Tour (3,540 m) embracing the glacier du Tour.
We do-si-doed with the hotel group along the final stretch along the ridge that took us to the Col des Posettes where we took panorama after panorama of beautiful vistas before dropping down amongst the Alpine Roses and wildflower meadows with a dispersed herd of classic Milka cows. A short stiff climb back up took us over the Col de Balme and out of France and into Switzerland. We picnicked late and illicitly at the Refuge de Balme, supplemented by an overpriced 3€, lukewarm cup of tea from our less than gracious hostess. Switzerland stretched out in front of us and in the patch of snow below a party of Koreans who had made the ascent on the Charamillon-Balme cablecar took photos, and a hardy few tried their hand at sledge-free sledging.
An easy path led us slowly but surely down back to the tree line and eventually into the meadows of Le Peuty (1,326m) near the head of the Trient valley.
The campsite at Le Peuty was classified as one of the two 'wilderness' ones on the itinerary. I'd call it 'basic' - it's set up and run as a campsite, located next to the public loos and with a covered seating/kitchen area. Boots off, I joined the rest of the group relaxing with beers and a fabulous view of the Trient Glacier which turned from blue to pink as the evening fell, providing a scenic backdrop for our half's first go at washing up, before turning in for a somewhat cold night's sleep under canvas.
DSC05053
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05415
Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
DSC05503
Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
DSC05626
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05452
Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by
Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
DSC05627
Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény
Day 8 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.
Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.
After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Vallon d'Armina, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.
We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.
But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.
After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.
As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.
A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.
The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...
Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.
A smashing day.
Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!
DSC05538
Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m) and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)
Day 7 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, on Exodus' Mont Blanc Circuit trip - a clockwise circumambulation of the Mont Blanc massif
Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.
At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.
Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.
After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.
There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.
Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.
DSC05329