View allAll Photos Tagged wormgear
Ein Planimeter (hier genauer: Polarplanimeter) ist ein mechanisches Messgerät zur Ermittlung beliebiger Flächeninhalte in Landkarten oder Zeichnungen.
Hier sichtbar ist das Fahrgestell, insbesondere das Zählwerk mit vierstelliger Anzeige: Die höchste Dezimalstelle (Tausender) wird am Zählrad rechts abgelesen, die beiden mittleren Stellen (Hunderter, Zehner) am Skalenring und die niedrigste Stelle (Einer) am Nonius.
(OTT-Planimeter, Typ 31. Hersteller: A. Ott, Kempten, Bayern. Herstellungsjahr unbekannt)
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A planimeter (here more precisely: polar planimeter) is a mechanical measuring device for determining any area in maps or drawings.
Visible here is the chassis, especially the counter with a four-digit reading: The highest decimal place (thousands) is read off the counting wheel on the right, the two middle places (hundreds, tens) on the scale ring and the lowest place ( ones) on the vernier
(OTT Planimeter, Type 31. Manufacturer: A. Ott, Kempten, Bavaria. Year of manufacture unknown)
Ein Planimeter (hier genauer: Polarplanimeter) ist ein mechanisches Messgerät zur Ermittlung beliebiger Flächeninhalte in Landkarten oder Zeichnungen.
Hier sichtbar ist das Fahrgestell, insbesondere das Zählwerk mit vierstelliger Anzeige: Die höchste Dezimalstelle (Tausender) wird am Zählrad rechts abgelesen, die beiden mittleren Stellen (Hunderter, Zehner) am Skalenring und die niedrigste Stelle (Einer) am Nonius.
(OTT-Planimeter, Typ 31. Hersteller: A. Ott, Kempten, Bayern. Herstellungsjahr unbekannt)
---
A planimeter (here more precisely: polar planimeter) is a mechanical measuring device for determining any area in maps or drawings.
Visible here is the chassis, especially the counter with a four-digit reading: The highest decimal place (thousands) is read off the counting wheel on the right, the two middle places (hundreds, tens) on the scale ring and the lowest place ( ones) on the vernier
(OTT Planimeter, Type 31. Manufacturer: A. Ott, Kempten, Bavaria. Year of manufacture unknown)
Canon lens FD 24/2.8 - enlarge to see details e.g. spider web
Germany. Baden-Württemberg. Remstal nearby the City of Stuttgart. The Remstal is good for biking, hiking and travelling. Vintage water lock controlled by a worm gear.
Sony A7II with e-mount adapted lens Canon FD 2.8/24mm. ISO 400. f/2.8. 1/80s. OSS Inbody image stabilization ON. Retouching using filters. If you are interested in an image of this camera/lens combination ... here it is --> Sony A7II - CANON FD 24mm 1:2.8.
Feel free to visit my albums, especially:
Small and Smaller is this week’s theme for Macro Mondays, there are small and smaller holes on this worm gear, and many different sized small water drops.
But what is a worm gear and it’s relation to a balcony door? Easy , this was the worm gear of may balcony. My balcony door did not close properly, this broken gear , most likely aluminium die casting was broken, my door does not close any more.
For this photo, the worm gear was placed on a black slate tablet, and gear was highlighted with a cosmetic mirror focusing the sun onto the worm gear reflecting the light, Other than this, aperture approx. – 2 stops
So I'm finally paying some attention to my SHIP! I scrapped the engines and made one into a giant gun (thank goodness for the wormgear). The SPII giant logo has been color perfected as well.
I felt a little like I was channeling the powers of Shannon Ocean when I was building the gun and that can only be a good thing... right?
This is the thing you move to adjust the opening of your adjustable wrench (aka crescent wrench). Macro Mondays "spiral" theme.
Strobist info: SB600 and SB700 in umbrellas, the the left and right of subject, controlled by an SU800 on the camera.
Industrial Saboteur, Chapter 6
The sixth of a series titled Industrial Saboteur. Gearwheels and steel plates that might be fashioned into sculptures and abstracts.
Here's the album so far ⬇️
www.flickr.com/photos/bigharv/albums/72177720313773505/
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Canon EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM lens. 24 images focus merged in Affinity Photo, natural light, almost SOOC exposures except for minor blemish removal on the black, 10:6 crop.
From the Richard Harvey Studio One
Infos:
www.leonardo-bewegende-erfindungen.de/modelle/maschinenel...
Informations:
www.sciencephoto.com/media/364630/view
Informaciónes:
www.euskonews.com/0134zbk/gaia13401es.html
(Foto von Sina)
A triptych of gears. The first and last are from a Traction Engine ( Pride of Bangbourne), and the middle if from a reconditioned 1940;s fuel pump, used for pumping fuel from the Isle of Wight to France. (PLUTO - Pipe Line Under The Ocean).
Thanks for looking. Comments and feedback appreciated,
Here is the digital design for my republic V-wing starfighter.
The designing is mostly finished.
As I'm completed the underside, the ship is mostly done, at least what's visible. I'm very satisfied whit this build, but as I will work on the instructions, there might be some parts of the inner structure, which need some changes.
I have started working on the instructions already, but the next big thing will be, to order the parts and build it real. If the build will turn out to be good enough, then will be the instructions releasing. I'm just not sure jet, how should I do that.
The underside is the last part, that I designed and I like, how that turned out with all the angles and the tubes. I like the whole build, I hope the landing will work right enough and I feel like it's the best that I could make.
This model is able to land the way, you can see in EpIII and in Battlefront2 (2017). The mechanism uses a wormgear system and you can turn the wings by twisting the upper engine part.
You can find all my renders of this modell, all the references, that I used and also WIP shots, here:
bricksafe.com/pages/Gubi0222/moc/alpha-3-nimbus-class-v-w...
What do you guys think about the (mostly) finished fighter?
1929 Mack AB
Mack Brothers Company was founded in 1900 by John M., Augustus F. and William C. Mack in Brooklyn, New York. I photographed this 1929 Model AB dump truck at the Brooklyn Fair, a Connecticut town fair founded in 1809.
Mack introduced the Model AB in 1914 as the company's first standardized, high production model. Originally available with worm gear or chain drive, Mack designed the AB as a mid-priced, medium duty truck. Replacing the worm drive with a dual-reduction drive in 1920, they continued offering the chain drive as an option. The AB remained in production for 23 years with regular updates and modifications and nearly 56,000 units shipped.
Dorset, Fiddleford Corn Mill hatches.
The Mill is abandoned, the river remains controlled.
150 year-old, cast-iron machinery, made in Ringwood, Hants.
armfield.co.uk/about-armfield-engineering/the-history-of-...
See also my previous picture ... Underside view of the bogie - notice how the wormgear drives the 8-toothed gears .... An axle with stop is used to hold the wormgear in place (but this is subject to slippage at higher rotation speeds).
Eine Dampfwalze ist eine Walze für den Tief- und Straßenbau, die durch Dampfkraft mittels einer Dampfmaschine angetrieben ist. Sie besorgt das statische Verdichten der Straßendecke unmittelbar nach deren Einbau durch die Last des Fahrzeugs.
de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dampfwalze
Das DampfLandLeute-Museum Eslohe ist ein technisches Museum und Heimatmuseum in Eslohe, Sauerland.
Es wurde 1981 eröffnet. Zu den großen Exponaten zählen 14 Dampfmaschinen, sechs Lokomotiven und ein Dieselmotor von Deutz. Ferner wird das Wohnen und Arbeiten im Sauerland dargestellt. Es werden vor allem das Holz- und Metallhandwerk, aber auch die Verarbeitung von Schiefer und Leder dokumentiert.
A worm gear combined with an older model by Rob Ives (Early Bird).
Ein Schneckenrad-Getriebe, von mir kombiniert mit einem älteren Modell von Rob Ives (Early Bird). Download auf : www.robives.com/blog/wormcam
I had to rebuild my telescope mount today. The declination worm gear assembly is really quite attractive, once cleaned up. Now the mount should be all tuned up for the coming new moon.
These spindle shafts for HRT450 rotary tables are fresh off one of the precision OD grinders in the Haas Automation machine shop. Next, a large-diameter aluminum-bronze gear blank will be assembled to each shaft, and then each spindle assembly will be trammed-in on a CNC gear hobber to a maximum 2-micron runout before the worm gear is cut. Cutting the worm gear after it’s assembled to the spindle shaft ensures perfect concentricity of the gear pitch diameter to the bearing journals and the spindle axis.
At the heart of every Haas rotary table is a large-diameter, aluminum-bronze worm gear supported on both sides by pre-loaded, deep-groove radial bearings. These massive bearings withstand loads up to 31,000 lb to ensure superior performance and dependable operation.
This control box uses a sliding wormgear to switch between four different functions.
Watch the video on Youtube to see how it works.
Came up with this design for the elevator yesterday. It is very reliable and has plenty of torque!
You can see how i designed it here -> www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxyEab1c6HA
Problem: The fitting connecting the garage door opener motor to the wormgear had failed. Got a replacement fitting but this happened. The motor ran but the door lift was out of synch so the system thought the door was open when it was not.
Complication: Disconnect the motor and wind the worm gear back to the real open position. By hand at three revolutions per minute it would take about four hours!
Solution: Electric drill, large rubber band off a bunch of fennel - instant drive belt! Took two minutes to rewind the door drive.
Result: Working garage door again.
Gears for 12.5 inch telescope drive. Noteworthy items made by Charlie D. are 399/400 solar to siderial converter and special formula worm set. Notice the number of worm teeth with grease polished off, contact is maintained over about eight rotations for low periodic error. Worm gear has 180 teeth. Worm/worm-gear was lapped in for days, then exact position maintained.
See scope at www.flickr.com/photos/edhiker/14416370 and long exposure star test at www.flickr.com/photos/edhiker/22879712/
Gears_IMG_0228CrQ70
There's a lot of art that goes into a good telescope worm gear, more than meets the casual eye.
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Shows a good cleaning/reassembly. Backlash will to be adjusted next, measured today at 16 arc minutes from worm engagement, 0.8 arc minutes from worm containment. Total 17 minutes at this point.
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Final drive system expected to have <15 arc second backlash against sky. PE< 0.5 arc second.
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Counted 198 teeth on this bronze worm gear, diameter 8.5"
IMG_7905
The important things I wanted to test with this simple setup were:
1) do these things work at all?
2) how strong are they (roughly)
3) how straight are the rods going to be?
4) how precisely will the "nut" move along the threads?
5) how fast can these things go?
I did get one of the actuators working, and it works great. It's strong enough to move whatever I'm going to give, which is great for only 5v. The rods were a little off-center, but I was able to gently bend them back to "straight enough." Whatever the nut gets clamped to will hold the rod firmly in place, so I'm not worried about that. The precision is tied to the speed. These are almost too precise for me. In fact, I'm going to go out on a limb and say they're most definitely more than I'll need. These are accurate enough to place grains of fine sand next to each other. According to the spec sheet, one step = a linear movement of .00012" (.003048mm), which is incredible.
In the stamp code, I left a variable delay between steps. If I set this to 0, the motor would sing, meaning it wouldn't move at all, but the shaft would vibrate in place fast enough to emit a high pitch tone. If I set it to 5, it moved slowly, but wasn't very strong. If I put in a delay of 10ms, I got what seemed to be the optimum movement, but here's the bad part. With a 10ms delay between steps, it took the nut over 256 seconds to move across its entire threaded rod, which is only about 6" long. That's over 4 1/4 minutes!
Hopefully I'll get better results with the PIC microcontroller. Both the stamp and PIC are 20MHz, but it's been my observation that the PIC does things far more quickly. There might be more to the stamp's timing that I'm not understanding, which is very likely with me, but honestly, I don't hold out hope for making these things very much faster. I'm considering upping the voltage a bit, even though I was using 5v here, and they're rated for 5v. If I keep it stepping at a higher rate, perhaps the PWM effect of a higher frequency of shorter bursts will allow me to move them more quickly without killing them. I'm wondering if I can ramp up voltage with stepping speed, such that for more intricate areas, I use less, and and 5v when I come to a stop, but maybe when it's cruising at top speed, it's using more like 9v. Does that make any sense?
One future problem will be if I decide to engrave or sculpt anything, or carve out my own printed circuit boards (a small dream I've had since high school), I'll need something like a Dremel multitool, which is loud. With this thing going so slowly, it will have to run for hours, perhaps even a day or two to finish up. I live in an apartment, and can't subject my neighbors to that kind of punishment. I've considered options like building a sound-proof box, which has much of its own appeal, but who knows what I'll eventually decide. Either way, I don't think I really want to leave a Dremel running overnight.
The alternate tow truck model starts by building the frame of the truck. You can already see the wormgear that will eventually move the boom. The steering is also installed - it's a bit more complex than the steering of the main model in order to move the HOG further back.
The drive pictured (LXD55) is closely related, but the actual CGEM has a brass ring worm gear.
For a smooth running telescope, the polished worm gear needs to turn smoothly in the housing on the left.
For a wider view, see www.flickr.com/photos/edhiker/5004951077
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IMG_8535SCr Celestron CGEM Worm Gear and Worm
In setting up the actuator, I realized I've never known the difference between unipolar and bipolar stepper motors, and that I've never used a bipolar one before. Steppers don't spin like regular motors. They have several repeating magnetic stops inside, and you run current through separate wires in sequence to make them "step" to the next magnet. They all have an angular rating - a degree value they'll spin per step - and mine are 1.8°, a very typical value that yields 200 steps per revolution (360 / 1.8).
The unipolar has 4 circuits - 4 input wires that run to usually one or two ground wires through separate windings (coils of wire that act as electromagnets). When you apply power to each sequentially (looping through them), the motor continually jumps 1 step in that direction - reverse the order you pulse the inputs to step the opposite way.
In a bipolar, as I have learned, you need 8 transistors (electrically powered switches) as they're are only 2 circuits through the 4 wires (1 through one pair, 1 through the other), and no grounding wires as in unipolars. Basically you're turning on 2 transistors to open a path to source and ground through a pair of wires, but at some point, you're opening a pair that lets current through the same pair in reverse - hence "bipolar." To do this you need a transistor from each wire to both supply and ground. I'm not sure why anyone thought this was a clever idea, but at least I finally made sense of the datasheet and got it working!
The 8 transistors I used are from a little bulk purchase I made a long while back, and I'm glad I did. They're NPN Darlington transistors of the TIP120 variety. Darlingtons are actually packages of 2 transistors in a setup that blocks current spike backlashes from the motor windings which could damage the microcontroller. Speaking of, I'm using a BASIC Stamp BS2p40 here because it's so fast and easy to prototype with, but at $100 ($90/ea these days), I'm keen not to damage it (any more - I've blown a few of it's 32 input pins before). The only 3 commands necessary with the stamp, aside from GOTO for the loop, were HIGH, LOW, and PAUSE to power the TIP120s, and subsequently, the stepper windings.
This is a Haydon linear actuator powered by a simple bipolar stepper motor (they're welded together). I have tons of stepper motors all over, including a box of 50 identical Vexta brand things with unfortunate crown gears welded to the shafts, making them a chore to setup and use.
When I saw these steppers online with worm screws built right in from one of my favorite electronics surplus vendors (we all have one of those, right?), I figured I had to have 2. They were $29/ea - not a bad price for this kind of thing, but not low enough that I'll just be impulse buying QTY 50 boxes of them. This is a simple setup just to test some things out, like if they work at all, and how fast and strongly they can linearly actuate (or "move things in a straight line").
Another crank driven piece, this one with a worm that drives four handmade gears, each of which drives several arms holding small plastic people, who come together and separate.
Surprise, surprise, it's another rainy Sunday! This is part of the works of an old 8mm cine camera that I was taking apart for components. I thought it looked interesting enough for a macro shot.
copyright 2012 M. Fleur-Ange Lamothe
Dean took the motor apart. The worm gear was slipping. He added a piece of tape and put the motor back together. And it worked for the rest of opening night. Dean's hoping it will work for the rest of the show.
Dean's installation got a lot of eye time!:-)
If you are in Hamilton today, Sat Apr 14, 2012, drop by (330 James St. N.) Dean will be at the gallery from noon to 5 and he would love your visit. He can also talk to you about the other artists work in the show. All strong pieces.