Pencil Drawing Tutorials
View allAll Photos Tagged tutorials
Let me introduce this little man, the very important Magic-Santa Claus and his first-and-only Assistent. They work in a top secret place and have a very important task to perform.
Do you know how all those big presents fit into the tiny sacks, that all Santa's carry? Well, this little Magic-Santa Claus has great magical powers and transforms everything into very tiny and very light objects, so the Santa's don't have to carry too much weight either.
Once touched by a human the presents immediately change back into their normal proportions. This process is so quickly, not noticeable for the human eye.
I was able to visit them, but I don't remember how ............. Suddenly I was there and then the next moment back in my house again.
All that's left is this one and only photo of them... I think Magic-Santa Claus put a spell on me too ;-)
Design origami "Santa Claus": Jacky Shan
Folded from 2 pieces kami paper
There is a tutorial, if you want to fold it too. Happy folding ;-)
Traditional origami "Kusudama" aka "his first-and-only Assistent"
Playing with the dispersion effect in Affinity Photo after watching this tutorial:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BE_a9wS7fU
Have a fun day, everyone! 😊
the tutorial i used:
darksong94.deviantart.com/art/Magical-Fire-Tutorial-73931438
(is the first time that i try to do it so be goood:p
:)
Someone was asking me lots of questions about mohair and asked for a tutorial on how to actually reroot it and everything.... the ones I recommended they didn't find helpful apparently, so I made one for them.
iamlily, this is your blythe's scalp, it's famous! :P
So Wedge, how can you do yourself and possibly others out of business?
Instagram: www.instagram.com/jorgeciscar
Facebook: www.facebook.com/jorgeciscar
EN/ES
---------------------------------------------------
Montesa castle at sunrise (Valencia – Spain).
Post-processing with Luminar (get 10€ discount with the voucher “CISCAR”).
---------------------------------------------------
Castillo de Montesa al amanecer (Valencia – España). ¿Quieres conocer los detalles de esta localización y ver consejos para sacarle jugo a los días sin nubes? Échale un ojo a este artículo de mi blog: www.jorgeciscar.com/castillo-montesa/
---------------------------------------------------
Visita mi tienda para descubrir mis tutoriales de procesado y artículos de formación fotográfica. También clases online one to one.
Procesada con Luminar (consigue 10€ de descuento con el código “CISCAR”).
También descuentos en: Vanguard (-20% con el código “CISCAR20VAN”) y LucrOit (-10% con el código “CISCAR”)
I've posted a tutorial on how I photoshopped this image on my blog at cymagen.blogspot.com/2007/01/anatomy-of-psd-part-1.html
I know my profile says I am not here to sell tutorials, and I am technically not changing that because it is not for sale, it is purely a community service - So here goes.
Jaap's cellphone photography course - Chapter one.
When photographing wildlife with a cellphone it is a little known but highly effective technique to point the phone in the general direction of the subject.
hehehehe
I made a picture tutorial for creating this image. It was done digitally in Paint Shop Pro X. I made the tutorial for my Smudgepainting group here on Flickr and for all my Digitalnuts friends.
My new BW post processing video tutorial is now ready for download, for a limited time get all 9 videos for the price of 1
Video 1 My Complete BW Workflow
Video 2 Mastering BW Conversions
Video 3 Fine Art Architecture
Video 4 Fine Art Landscape
Video 5 Fine Art Seascape
Video 6 Fine Art Cityscape
Video 7 Fine Art Long Exposure
Video 8 Fine Art Street
Video 9 Minimal Photography
also included are my photoshop files and post processing notes!
An extremely comprehensive post processing tutorial for fine art BW photography
www.vulturelabs.photography/product-page/b-w-post-process...
I used a wooden thrift store plaque as a base and added cereal box cardboard details. Coated in gesso, painted with chalk paint, aged a bit with brown wax and added a door knob.
It is a little short, but works ok for Blythe in a diorama.
This tutorial is done in Photoshop CS3, and you need some basic knowlegde to follow it. The numbers are the exact ones I used.
Step by step snapshots at www.soffia.net/tutorial.html
1. I duplicade the layer twise, on one layer I erase out carefully the mountain with soft eraser, opacity 100 flow around 60. (you can also use masks) One layer is just to have the photo as it is.
2. Name the layers ( image01) mountains, clouds and just_in_case_layer.
3. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 8 ~ 0,73 ~ 200
4. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again but this time choose Brightness/Contrast. and put in -12 for brightness and contr. -28 (Image03)
5. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again and choose Hue/Saturation. (Image 04)
take up saturation to 22
6. For now, I´m fairly happy with the mountains, so now I drag the Clouds layer on top of all the layers. (Image 05)
7. Then I merge the mountains with all the adjustment layers by selecting all the layers, and choose merge layers (Image 06)Name the Layer mountains again if it´s called hue/saturation.
8. Now we can work on the clouds, you can turn off the mountains layer by clicking on the eye on the left. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 18 ~ 0,84 ~ 215
9. I want a little more contrast in the big cloud so duplicade the clouds layer, name it cloud-contrast go to Image - Adjustment - Levels. Use 59~ 0,64~ 195. The reason why I choose levels from there is cause I only want it to affect the new cloud layer(Image 07)
10. with the cloud-contrast layer picked, go to Image - Adjustment - Brightness/Contrast and put brightness to +36 and contrast +17
11. I find the cloud too red, so go to Image - Adjustment - hue/saturation, in Edit: choose
Reds and take the saturation down to -42. After that I rease around it so the layer would look like this (Image 08)
12. Let´s go to the Clouds layer again, Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Brightness/Contrast. put in +45 for brightness (Image03)
13. Go to create new fill or adjustment layer (Image 04) and choose Hue/Saturation. In Edit:
Blues hue: -13 sat: -67
Cyans hue: -10 sat: -57 (or tweek the numbers untill you´re happy with the colors......)
15. Merge the layers by selecting Cloud-contrast,clouds and the all the adjustment layers(image 06) (you can also select the layers and hit Ctrl + E )
16. Turn on the Mountains Layer. Flatten image. Then I did some more adjucstment with hue/sat, cyan -9 and -39 then blues -4 and -22 and Yelloes -35. And then I went to levels and did 8 ~ 1,16 ~ 255.
17. Then I put the lomo gradient fill with 40 % opacity on that layer
I did use the clone stamp to erase out a part of the sky, the dark bottom part... :P
And finally I ran it through Neat Image, a software I bought the other day. neatimage.com/
I could probably spend another hour tweeking and tuning. But let´s say this done for now.
This Bunny was based on this tutorial: tutsplus.
It took me a little while - and now I see that I have chosen the wrong export cmyk instead of rgb. UPDATED: its changed back to the right colors :-)
1 » foto original;
2 » Selecione o rosto sem selecionar olhos, boca e narinas;
3 » Após selecionar, copie (ctrl+c), cole (ctrl+v) e duplique a camada colada (ctrl+j). Na cama da meio, aplique um desfoque gaussiano (Menu Filtro/Desfoque/Desfoque gaussiano/5,0 OK). Na última camada (a de cima), você vai aplicar uma alta frequencia (Menu Filtro/Outros/Alta Frequencia - high pass/1,5 OK). A imagem ficará cinza, então mude para sobrepor (overlay) e una as camadas. Obs.: Caso precise arrumar alguma coisa que ficou "embaçada demais", vá na camada do desfoque gaussiano e passe uma borracha macia com uma opacidade baixa.
4 » Boca: Selecione a boca e vá em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida. Escolha uma cor que fique boa pra boca e clique em OK. Caso fique borrado, é só usar a borracha macia (sempre usando a borracha macia =))
5 » Como fica a camada =)
6 » Olhos (oba!): Os olhos são que nem a boca. Você seleciona onde você quer a sombra e o lápis. Nesse passo, fiz o lápis e o delineador. Junto à foto tem as camadas. =)
7 » Mesma coisa. Selecione os olhos e pinte com o preenchimento de camada. Caso precise, dê um desfoque gaussiano pra ficar mais realista e tire um pouco da opacidade ou use a borracha, também. Mudei a cor dos olhos, também. Deixei mais viva a cor. É o mesmo passo. =)
8 » Como os olhos ficaram e o blush, que é a mesma coisa. Selecione as maçãs do rosto e vão em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida/Escolha a cor OK e tire a opacidade. Será necessário dar uma desfocada (ctrl+f, caso tenha sido o último filtro que você usou =))
9 » Resultado.
Espero que tenham gostado e que eu tenha ajudado! hehe.
Qualquer dúvida, perguntem! =D
Hey everyone. Here's a basic tutorial for the wall technique that you can find in my Wizard's Gate build.
1. Start with a row of headlight bricks attached together. This row can be as long as you want the wall to be.
2. Place one plate on the front-most headlight bricks and two plates on the bricks that are further back. add headlight bricks, alternating studs on the back row and 1x1 tiles on the front.
3. Attatch 1x1 with one stud out to the headlight bricks and 1x1 bricks to the studs left on the front row.
4. Add alternating clips on top of the front row as seen in the picture.
5. Attach 1x1 and 1x2 plates onto the clips leaving a small gap between each to achieve a stonework effect. In long sections of this wall, you will run out of space to slide the 1x2 tiles along the clip to acheive the horizontal gap. But that's ok! Just skip one stud and continue the pattern with the clips attached to the other side of the 1x2 plates.
6. You can achieve a streamlined base to the wall using a bracket or any other half plate offset and three plates on top of that. The wall is 3.5 plates out from the headlight bricks and 7 plates above the initial starting plate. Feel free to use your own brickmath to close those gaps, I just showed what worked for me.
Hope that this helps anyone who was wondering how the wall was constructed. Feel free to try it out for yourself!
I've got a little good news under the stars here in New Zealand for you all on a rather dreary week! I don't know if you've seen my two recent videos on "Despair" and "Anxiety" - but in one of them I mentioned that a great way to escape from your own crazy-monkey mind is to help other people!
I'm not saying this is a self-congratulatory way, but just because it's kinda cool and maybe it will help others be outward-focused as well! First, if you're bored at home, why not learn photography, eh? I took my best Beginning Photography course, filmed here in New Zealand, and made it TOTALLY FREE - people seem to love it and Stu says we have over $50,000 worth of downloads already - that's awesome and I hope you all are enjoying it.
Link below...
Also, I want to send a shout out to my friends over at Monday.com for helping out with a new information-sharing initiative that's just about to get started here in NZ that should help with the COVID-19 sitch.
Besides all that stuff, I'm gonna make some more videos here in the next several days... people seem interested in these topics: 1) conspiracy theories and why you shouldn't believe them 2) my full death experiences and why I'm not afraid to die 3) what kind of evolved society will emerge after this 4) what the heck I get up to on a daily basis in solo isolation 5) ways to thrive and create in this new paradigm... and more!
I may even make some fun videos with good 'ol Gino. Hey man I have a lot of spare time and I can't play video games ALLLL day!!
store.stuckincustoms.com/collections/tutorials/products/b...
Ever wondered how to build good tudor style walls?
Check out our latest tutorial by Titus V. on brickbuilt.
Instagram: www.instagram.com/jorgeciscar
Facebook: www.facebook.com/jorgeciscar
EN/ES
---------------------------------------------------
City of Arts and Sciencie in Valencia (Spain) at night.
Post-processing with Luminar (get 10€ discount with the voucher “CISCAR”).
---------------------------------------------------
Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias en Valencia (España) de noche.
Visita mi tienda para descubrir mis tutoriales de procesado y artículos de formación fotográfica.
Procesada con Luminar (consigue 10€ de descuento con el código “CISCAR”).
I create this image in my new video tutorial. It's all about Giants ;)
I shot the background in Dubai and the models in the studio ;)
If you like to see more: tutorial.adriansommeling.com
TUTORIAL ♥♥
A lot of people asked me how special shaped bokehs are done. I decided to put together a tutorial and explain things in details.
This is a single shot out of the camera! Nothing was added in Photoshop.
Special thanks to Tony who helped me with the picture formatting!
#28
Step 1 - Taking the Image
When I first started off using my DSLR, I knew diddly squat about camera settings, auto-bracketing, manual mode etc...
Experimenting with different settings, looking at various tips and tutorials have improved my knowledge vastly on this.
So here we go then…Firstly there are two main ways to create the source images needed for HDR.
- Autobracketing
- One raw image
Autobracketing:
Most DSLR camera’s have the ability to bracket multiple exposures. This is simply a way to tell the camera to take several shots in quick succession, each at different exposures. For example, in this image a -2, 0, +2 setting was used to take three shots.
When deciding on how many auto-bracketing exposures to use, you will need to consider the contrast range of the scene. If there is a higher contrast range, consider using a wider bracket setting.
Now this may not be possible on some cameras. My own Canon 400D only has the ability to bracket 3 shots, but some cameras are able to go as high as nine. Normally 3 exposures are suffice for me when shooting in interior locations, such as churches and other buildings.
When I do need more than 3 exposures, I normally take auto-bracketing off in Aperture Priority mode and fire out 5 or more shots by manually changing the shutter speed each time.
One RAW image:
The other way to produce the 3 shots needed is to take 1 photo and adjust it in a RAW editor such as Lightroom, Aperture or any other one you may use.
The main advantage with this is that you can produce a HDR shot with moving subjects such as cars and people. The downside from experience is that if an image contains dark shadows, the exposure adjusting followed by the HDR process has a tendency to create a lot of noise. The other thing that is debated quite often is that by taking 1 raw image, it doesn’t truly capture the full dynamic data range of a scene.
Camera Settings
-Shoot in RAW – it allows you to capture more dynamic range data than using JPEGs.
-Use a tripod. In some places this can be difficult, especially in churches. Alternatively, try and find some kind of ledge, bench, stack of books or take up an awkward stance and take the image handheld.
-Use Aperture Priority mode on your camera. As you will be combining several images into one, you don’t want your Depth of Field (DOF) to change between shots, as the final image will appear all out of focus.
-Keep the ISO setting to the minimum. The higher the ISO setting, the more noise it will generate. I try to keep mine at 100 whenever I can.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image and following the high resolution link from there.
** Update: I have loaded the 3 original hi-res exposures for you guys/gals to experiment with. Click on them below and then save. Have fun and it will be great to see what you can come up with.
*** Update 2 - Be sure to check out my latest tutorial which focuses more on the post processing techniques in Photoshop. You can find that tutorial here.
The Belleza Jake mesh body was recently updated, no finally offering a far better (as good as invisible) neck seam with Lelutka mesh heads. I've taken this as an opportunity to put together a little tutorial.
billybeaverhausen.com/2021/09/25/belleza-jake-3-0-mesh-bo...
This tutorial explains how I built the 45° roof of my Riften Watchtower, and also shows the method I used to make the plank siding underneath the roof-line.
Check it out on brickbuilt.
Want to make a neat semicircle tower for a gatehouse or other project? Then the latest tutorial on Brickbuilt is just what you need!
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
C'mon, you can't see the detail of those pipes unless you view this Large.
Made with a 1 watt flashlight for the floor, lighting figure, and ceiling. A single bright LED light pen for the starbursts. And the RGB light pen on red for the swirls.
Gostaria do tutorial destes box, para passar para uma amiga muito querida Lelê Ceschini, se alguém tiver, agradeço!
bjos
Working on a temple and decided to add an interior. Wanted to play around a bit with the floor and found some inspiration looking at -LittleJohn and Katie Walker’s work so I decided to make a tutorial :) Hopefully some people will find it useful. The full build should be done fairly soon so stay tuned ;)
I was hoping to put this tutorial up a while ago, but never got the chance to complete it until now. I received a lot of requests from people who wanted to know the workflow on the Times Square image(below). It’s fairly similar to my previous tutorial (the first few stages relating to the camera setup and Photomatix processing are pretty much the same), although this one concentrates more on the post processing in Adobe Photoshop.
If anyone wants to practice with the original images, let me know and I’ll upload them. You can see my original HDR tutorial here.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image which will take you through to the larger image.
The tutorial can also be found over on my blog http://blog.sandmania.co.uk.
This is the second tutorial geared around the frame warping and a little more on shadowing using PS CS2. Also see below for the first tutorial on creating a OOB as well. Please let me know of any errors or if you have questions here.
Our latest tutorial on Brickbuilt explains how to create trees like those used in my Allanar Forest build, and in my most recent creation, Shrooms!
TUTORIAL - FIRESTORM
TURN OFF AO
1. www.flickr.com/photos/valenska/50866330231/in/pool-poseus...
2. www.flickr.com/photos/147240527@N03/51052457858/in/pool-p...
NEW VIDEO! iPhone Photography Tutorial: Lippen - Surreal Portrait #04 #video
Check link on my Instagram profile for my channel. OR here’s for direct link to video: youtu.be/Ok9e_PtsUGU
Enjoy!
#surreal #icolorama #superimpose #lensdistortions #mextures #iphoneart #mobileart #iphoneonly
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
#instagram #mobileartistry #shotaward #artsick #fineartphg #expofilm #enter_imagination #graphicroozane #thecreativers #manipulationteam #moodcommunity #launchdsigns #milliondollarvisuals #imaginativeuniverse
#iphoneography #iphone #photography
Another addition to our ever growing series of furniture tutorials. This installment covers a weapons rack, bed, side cupboard, and cabinet. Check it out on brickbuilt.
The latest tutorial on Brickbuilt shows how to build slanted rockwork, like I used in my Risky Endeavor creation.
These are the tutorials I managed to put together during 2018. Not that many, but still a number of them. Most of them were nature themed, and about half of them were a result of my Element Experimentation builds.
Making tutorials is a rather different experience as compared to normal building. It takes a great deal of time and effort to put a tutorial together, compared to making regular builds. You have to take many pictures, think through the flow of the technique and write good descriptive texts for each picture. Tutorials also play out differently on different platforms, so often you have to create multiple versions of the tutorial to fit the platforms you post on.
Also, for me, pretty much all tutorials I make are of techniques I've already showcased in builds before, so tutorials doesn't bring anything new to the table - it just shows how a previously used technique is made.
These two things combined makes tutorial making more of a chore than fun, to be honest. It's a lot of work and it doesn't result in a nice new build. So why do it?
I have personally learned loads from tutorials made by others, and so I have reaped the benefits of their hard work with very little effort on my side. So, making tutorials of your techniques is a way of contributing back to the LEGO community. It may not be the most fun, or get you the most likes or comments, but it's still a satisfying experience knowing that you have given something back.
And of course it puts a smile on your face when you see people starting to use your techniques in their own builds :) I have noticed that both my spruce techniques are seeing quite some use these days, so that's something I'm really happy about :)
Image created for a tutorial.... inspired by the amazing James White... signalnoise.com
Check the tutorial out at abduzeedo.com/really-cool-eclipse-effect-photoshop