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Douglas DC-3, C-47, Dakota, a flying legend.
The Douglas DC-3 is a propeller-driven airliner which had a lasting effect on the airline industry in the 1930s/1940s and World War II. It was developed as a larger, improved 14-bed sleeper version of the Douglas DC-2. It is a low-wing metal monoplane with conventional landing gear, powered by two radial piston engines of 1,000–1,200 hp (750–890 kW). (Although most DC-3s flying today use Pratt & Whitney R-1830 Twin Wasp engines, many DC-3s built for civil service originally had the Wright R-1820 Cyclone. The DC-3 has a cruise speed of 207 mph (333 km/h), a capacity of 21 to 32 passengers or 6,000 lbs (2,700 kg) of cargo, and a range of 1,500 mi (2,400 km), and can operate from short runways.
From Wikipedia, the free encylopedia
About the model:
Following my Catalina model it came natural to build my DC-3 to the same scale, 1:72.
The model is my LEGO representation of the last airworthy DC-3 / C-47 in Denmark, belonging to the non-profit association DC-3 Vennerne (Danish Dakota Friends).
It wasn't particular difficult to build, but still had a few challenges, and it follows many of the same techniques used for my other models, e.g. the wing dihedral is made in the same way as my N.A.Harvard, with a basic hinge on top of the wing-panel, and a finger hinge on the lower side, that isn't fully interlocked and prevent the outer wing-panels from ”falling” down. For the leading edge de-icer panels, the new curved 1x1 brick came in very handy. The most difficult part was getting the nose-profile right, but I'm very happy how it came out!
As always, comments and critisism are more than welcome!
Inside an abandoned market booth, a forgotten shopping scale lies on the floor, dust-covered and silent, like the last trace of something that once was.
Olympus mju II 35mm f2.8 and Rolley RPX 100 film /
Bulgaria august 2020
©
All comments are very welcome, however please no graphics, invites or links.
Should you wish to use this image elsewhere, please contact me first for permission.
Linking east and west Hull Scale Lane swing bridge was opened in June 2013.
This image was taken with Kodak Retina using Fomapan 200 film developed in 510 Pyro.
A minifig scale brick built Hutt for Star Wars. Free instructions available now at rebrickable.com!
Mod it and change its colors to create new characters!
rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-102009/AlbertLee/hutt/#details
Then join us at:
swfactions.net
A LEGO Star Wars role building game.
Not as sophisticated as Sariel's scaler - however, quite helpful to get correct proportions when building minifig scale vehicles. You just need a tablet with a blueprint on its screen zoomed to the proper scale (here I'm using a dummy for obvious reasons). Starting point is always the wheelbase wherefrom all the other measurements can be deduced by checking the silhouette.
H1 wheelbase = 3302 mm; wheelbase of the model = 96 mm (12 studs); scale = 1/34,4
So this is happening...
Last year I built this micro ugly, a combination of an U-Wing and a Tie Interceptor: the Uterceptor. And I knew I had to try to scale it up!
Sibley's describes these as "uncommon". He's right! ;-)
Taken in one of the Martin Ranch superb blinds - that's a full-frame crop... he is that close.
Too bad I didn't have fill flash.
Tree scale is caused by the digestion of usually rotting wood by scores of different fungal species. As the fungi digest the wood these scales develop on the outer surface of the wood. The scales vary greatly in size color and shape and some can become quite beautiful with alternating layers of color. This series taken at the Broughtons Wildlife Education Area near Marietta Ohio in Dec 2014
I came across this product by accident but it fit the bill perfectly for scaled down chain link fencing.
It's an aluminum mesh used for sculpting and arts and crafts projects, called WIREFORM.
It comes in 16" x 20" sheets and also as an 18" roll.
I suspect there are similar products out there in Hobby and Arts and Crafts stores.
Be aware that it bends very easily! You'll want to handle it carefully so as not to stretch or deform it.
When making the actual fence, I cut strips of the mesh to the appropriate length and height, then cut aluminum tubing for the posts and rails.
To add a bit of authenticity to the piece, I used jewelry wire to hold the fencing to the posts.
The metal cap you see in the upper right hand corner of the fence, that receives the top rail, is a jewelry making item used for finishing off the end of a bracelet or necklace.
MamiyaRZ67, 110mm, Portra 400. It's a 6X7 frame even if doesn't look like it, but I think that I cocked my machine a bit too fast and the framing of the film has been affected...
old scale "Juliusz Sperlig" at Lublin Open Air Village Museum
openairmuseum.pl/skansen/lublin
Kodak Color Plus 200
Petri MF-2
Petri 50mm f/1,8