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Frame 340 of a 1,072-exposure sequence. Shot shortly after the Moon had set. Very Large Telescope, Paranal Observatory, Atacama Desert, Chile, 25 Aug 09. © 2009 José Francisco Salgado, PhD

 

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Fata Morgana 05/12/2022 13h08

The huge entrance hall of Fata Morgana where you are guided through a gallery to the entry point on the turntable. A gallery, decorated with donkey arches through which the entire hall can be seen, follows the walls of this entrance hall to go halfway through the room towards the rotary table. Past the control room for staff, you have to go down a flight of stairs to get to the turntable, after which you can get into one of the fourteen red sloops. No much of storytelling here, in the 1980's when Fata Morgana opened not very common.

 

Fata Morgana

Fata Morgana, the forbidden city, also known as 1001 Arabian Nights (or "1001 nachten" in Dutch) is a dark ride in amusement park Efteling in the Netherlands. It was designed by Ton van de Ven and Jan Verhoeven and opened in 1986.

Fata Morgana is a dark ride/tow boat ride that was opened in 1986. The attraction is based on the 1001 Arabian Nights. The ride is populated by 140 animatronics. Fata Morgana is set inside a large building with turquoise and gold domes on the roof. A large tower serves as the entrance to the ride. There is a large square outside the ride with palm trees, fountains and flames. The ride's gift shop De Bazaar, and a kiosk, Oase, are located nearby to the ride.

The facade of the ride is a huge domed building painted gold and turquoise. Guests enter through a large tower that serves as the entrance to the ride. They then wait on raised platforms above a round canal with a turntable in the middle. Guests are taken down the stairs and onto the turntable, before boarding 16 passenger boats. There is never more than one boat in each scene, except for the first Jungle scene where one can see the back of a boat turning into the Poor District.

The attraction is considered to be the link between the old fairy-tale style of Anton Pieck and the newer, more intensive rides.

 

The opening was planned for 1984, but in order to give more time for the designing team it was postponed to 1986. The original name Fata Medina was changed to Fata Morgana to avoid confusion with the Islamic holy city, though it is more likely that it was a reference to the first completed part of the ride, the Medina quarter- the poor district and central marketplace.

The decorative art was bought in the Moroccan city of Marrakech and the animatronics were dressed by Belgian designer Jeanine Lambrechts.

Underwater rotating disks regulate the transport system provided by the Swiss manafucturer Intamin. The whole transport system was developed by Intamin (as a Tow boat ride). Total cost, converted from Guilders: €7 million.

The music for Fata Morgana was composed by composer Ruud Bos, who also wrote the musical themes for Dreamflight,Vogelrok and Villa Volta.

Naturally he chose a Harem style as the base theme for the music. More specifically, the beginning of the ride is linked by orchestral music to the dreamy, mideastern music with flutes and violins of the market, the first setting of the attraction. The music gets darker when the ride passes the prison part. A slow melody sets in upon entering the harbor but is extended with instruments like violins, gongs and a percussion. The musical climax comes when the ride ends in the final scene of the throneroom.

 

FACTS & FIGURES

Year of opening: 1986

Manufacturer: Intamin

Designer: Ton van de Ven, Jan Verhoeven

Model: Tow boat ride (14 boats)

Animatronics: 137 in total

Speed: 2 km/h

Capacity: 1800 riders per hour

Duration: 8 minutes

Length: 285 meters

 

[ Source and more Information: Wikipedia - Fata Morgana (Efteling) ]

A collection of hobbed spindles and corresponding blanks for Haas HRT160 rotary tables.

 

The large-diameter aluminum-bronze worm gears are assembled to the spindles prior to machining to ensure concentricity, and each spindle is individually trammed-in to a maximum 2-micron runout prior to hobbing. All gears are machined in-house at Haas Automation.

 

See how they're made - www.youtube.com/watch?v=KilOWIBHK4o

Wormshaft nut housings, wrapped in protective blue plastic net sleeves, await assembly into HRT310 rotary tables. The net sleeves protect a precision bore that is used to mount a bearing assembly, and prevent damage to the external threads.

 

The wormshaft nut housings are machined in two operations on a Haas SL-20APL turning center with automatic parts loader, live tooling, and C axis.

This is what’s underneath the platter of a Haas TR210 trunnion rotary table: a massive bearing, a large-bore spindle, precision ground surfaces, and a precisely engineered oil groove.

This row of Haas HA5C collet indexers is ready for final assembly. The HA5C is the product that started it all for Haas Automation in 1983, and it is still very popular today.

 

Developed by Gene Haas to boost production in his own machine shop, the Haas 5C was the industry¹s first fully automatic programmable collet indexer. Today, Haas indexers and rotary tables help boost production in machine shops around the world.

Back in 1983, Gene Haas developed the industry’s first fully programmable collet indexer as a means to increase production in his own machine shop. That product started it all for Haas Automation.

 

Today, Haas produces more than 35 models of single- and dual-axis rotary tables and indexers – including the massive HRT600 shown here – and ships roughly 300 units a month to machine shops around the world.

A Haas machine operator inspects the critical bores, diameters, and alignments of an HRT160 body after machining. The rotary table bodies are machined in two setups on Haas EC-630 HMCs, and all critical features are inspected 100% for accuracy. Haas currently produces about 100 HRT160 bodies per month.

Self-portrait taken while producing a time-lapse sequence with the D700 stereo rig mounted on a rotary table which rotates the rig between exposures. Paranal Observatory, Atacama Desert, Chile.

© 2009 José Francisco Salgado, PhD

At the heart of every Haas rotary table is a large-diameter, aluminum-bronze worm gear supported on both sides by pre-loaded, deep-groove radial bearings. These massive bearings withstand loads up to 31,000 lb to ensure superior performance and dependable operation.

Haas Automation's very first VMC-- the VF-1 -- now resides in the demo room at the company's Oxnard headquarters. It's shown here with one of the first Haas rotary tables.

The VLT Unit Telescopes 1, 2, and 3 (Antu, Kueyen, and Melipal, respectively) get ready for the astronomical observations of 25-26 Aug 2009 while a 5-day old Moon shines above.

© 2009 José Francisco Salgado, PhD

 

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A rounded piece is silver soldered to the inside of the smokebox to create a reinforced area for the smoke stack

 

Greetings Dampfbahnerforum - the X-Y table on top greatly simplifies getting the stack base piece centered on the axis of rotation, and aligning the stack base piece for the correct radius of curvature. The rotary table is clamped to the mill bed, and the center is found. The X-Y table is clamped to the rotary table, and the part is clamped to the X-Y table aligned with the X-axis. The cutter is moved to the correct radius with respect to the rotary table. The Y axis of the X-Y table is moved to center the part on the rotational axis. The X axis of the X-Y table is moved to bring the face of the part towards the cutting radius - move the part in, rotate for a cut , and repeat. Stop when the entire face of the part is cut with the desired radius.

The sand dome saddle needs a large diameter rounded cut to sit on the boiler.

Screwed to a bumper, clamped to an angle iron, on an x-y table, on a rotary table, on a mill bed, on the shop floor, on Texas soil, on the Balcones limestone formation, above the center of the earth.

In pretty good shape with only 10 thousandth's backlash. I'll take that over the other one any day of the week. I'll see if I can get some assembly drawings and perhaps give her a once over with a fresh coat of paint too on the base.

 

www.44bikes.com

I'm ajusting the angle of the rotary table on the milling machine to cut the notches for the "gear" shape and the back end of the lightsaber. This mill is a Bridgeport clone with a 54x10 inch table, fairly large for my garage shop. Cutting the metal was easy, calculating the exact angles and depths for the setup took me forever to figure out. Since each tooth was cut on two different angles, the blue layout dye helped me to make sure I was cutting the correct areas.

The stepper motor is being powered by a simple circuit from a BASIC Stamp BS2p40 microcontroller. You can see the black plastic handle on the red anodized aluminum hand wheel spinning. The motor has 200 1.8º steps (common for stepper motors). The rotary table takes 72 revolutions of the motor shaft to spin 360º, and that's 200x72, or 14,400 discrete locations. That works out to 0.025º, or 1/40 of 1º per step. Not too shabby! These unipolar steppers can be driven in half-steps, yielding 28,800 discrete locations at 1/80 of 1º intervals, but I haven't tried that yet.

 

Given the 4ms delay per step I set into the motors - any faster and there really isn't enough torque generated per step to fight the load of the rotary table's gearing - the 14,400 steps needed for a full spin works out to 57.6 seconds for a full revolution of the rotary table, which sounds about right. It spun slowly, which is a bit necessary to get smooth cuts on such light duty equipment.

Keep it at 140* and everybody's happy.

This was a later test to see if I could mill a tube, kinda like a little bullet casing. The answer is a resounding "kinda." It still suffers from the grain problem mentioned in the previous pic, wherein bars formed with crappy aluminum don't mill evenly as spun around beneath the end mill. Certain edges mill cleanly, while others seem to flake away, leaving lost, unsharp edges.

 

In the background you can see the DIN cable plug into a simple board I made that connects to a BASIC Stamp BS2p40, which is on the stamp dev board (with the green power LED). All it does it kick out a steady stream of rotation commands to slowly rotate the rotary table. In this pic, the table sits on the angle plate, which is just there to raise it up enough to give the rotary table's CNC motor (foreground right) clearance over the Y axis handwheel (out of frame bottom). On the rotary table is a 4-jaw independent chuck, which is holding the 0.25"x0.75" stock vertically for the milling. Using the rotary table, I cleared away the space around a little bar shaped piece, and then began milling the tube into the center of it. Obviously, I can't get much depth with that tiny 1/8" end mill, and moreover, this operation is far more suited to both a lathe (almost next on my wishlist), and better grades of aluminum, or other metals entirely.

 

Again, just another test. Note also the white copy paper and black electrical tape way-guards. I don't like getting shavings around the exposed Y-axis threaded rod, and I haven't made a fancier system yet. This works quite well for now.

I didn't take the usual barrage of pics along the way. I wasn't making something in particular here - just playing metal pottery wheel with my rotary table. I didn't put a sacrificial riser sheet below this aluminum, and cutting downward in thin layers, I only dropped the mill head when its bit was over the T-slots used for clamping things to the rotary table. Then spinning the table I bit, I could see if I was poking through the metal yet. When I got low enough, I was so close to shaving the entire wheel clear, parts of it tore out, but even with these holes, I didn't nick the rotary table.

Had to make a thing to make a thing: Moving the gear reduction assembly aft didn't fully address the problem of belt tension in the gearbox of my hybrid trike. I decided to add a screw tensioner and a curved slot so that the whole assembly would pivot on the rear mounting bolt, sliding up or down on the front mounting bolt. But before I could mill a curved slot I had to find a way to mount the side plates onto the rotary table. I made this mounting plate from a piece of 1/2" x 4" x 12" aluminum. I tapped 8 rows of 7 holes 1/4"-20 for clamping.

The connecting flange was thin enough that I could just break the wheel free with a snap.

Keep it at 140* and everybody's happy.

It's a bit more jaggedy than I was hoping. Part of this could be the "grain" of the aluminum. There is a very obvious banding, produced by the stretching of larger stock into the 1/8"x2" extrusion. More of it may be due to climb vs. normal milling. Edges interior to the end mill were normal milled, while edges exterior to it were climb milled with the direction the rotary table was spinning in relation to the end mill. Most edges of the wheel were thus normal milled. Still more might be due to spindle speed. I did initial cuts with lower speed, and then the rest on a much higher setting, perhaps around 1800RPM.

At work off Trinidad, September 2004.

Julies standing near, nearly on, the rotary table.

Keep it at 140* and everybody's happy.

The thin layer still holding the wheel to the block was so thin it crinkled like aluminum foil, and lifting the block made it crinkle a lot just under the swinging weight of the wheel. Now that's thin.

It's a little bit jaggedy, but not too bad for a first test of the mill. As I didn't go from any need, or measurements, and was just playing around with new toys, I can't attest to any kind of accuracy yet, but the mill did go exactly where I sent it, so I imagine it's within the .001" claimed by Sherline.

On the Owen Machine tool co. Number 2 plain

Part of me is wondering if the jaggedy edges are from my not feeding the material fast enough. The edges don't appear jaggedy as much as melted. Maybe the bit spinning for too long against the aluminum causes it to throw tiny spurs of melted aluminum? Maybe not, but when I polished this thing (in later pics) with a Dremel metal wire brush polisher, I got what appear to be little melted fragments.

This is how big the wheel is compared to a 2002 Louisiana US quarter. I'd like to take this opportunity to ask "What is going on with US currency?" For my whole life it was the same stuff, and now we have 50 state quarters, new paper bills, and even the new paper bills seem to have an edition 2 now, that moves from the long-held green coloring to something red and yellow. I've confused cashiers, and myself by pulling some of these "autumn" colored bills from my wallet, and have a few times been met with a lot of scrutiny, holding the bill up to light, and even once calling in a manager to see if we could accept this kind of bill. Now we have new nickels, too. Again, what's going on?

YUASA Rotary Table close-up on rotation angle indicator. Shot with Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens.

Back of the milled wheel, prepolishing, showing the extrusion grain.

Edge is a bit rough. I'll work on that (not on this, but with my milling procedures in general).

10" YUASA Rotary Table for the milling machine. Shot with Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens.

Dremel w/ metal bristle brush attachment polishing marks.

Polished up a bit now with a Dremel on low speed (about 3, whatever that means), with a wire bristle brush metal cleaning attachment. Near the middle, you can see what looks like pitted, boiled texture. The bristle brush seems to push the metal around a bit, as though lightly molten.

You can see the plane I milled off the top face to clean up the wheel a bit when I was done. This wasn't for anything, other than a test of the rotary table, and varying depth cuts, so I didn't even use handwheel markings. I just eyeballed things. It was more a 'getting the feel of the machine' exercise. Still lots to learn.

After the first test of the Sherline rotary table on the mini mill, I wanted to try something tinier, and see if I could mill it more tightly, and more cleanly, by cutting my initial cuts each at 1/1000th inch intervals, and then increasing after that. That should give me clean corners at the top edges of each cut, I figured. Mostly, that worked out to be true, but this Home Depot 1/4"x3/4" stock is too gummy for really clean cuts. I need harder stuff for really nice parts-making.

Here you can see that odd look aluminum gets when polished with a wire bristle brush, here from a Dremel attachment.

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