View allAll Photos Tagged roguegrid
Richelle
Ford Model, NYC
Taken during a workshop I gave at Calumet Photo, NYC.
Key light: SB910, Large Rogue Flashbender rolled into a snoot
Hair light: SB800, Large Rogue Flashbender rolled into a snoot
Back light: SB800, Rogue 16º Grid
This beautiful figurine is made from what appears to be either jade or glass, as it is translucent.
Strobist info: To make it glow, I put a Strobie 130 in a Rogue grid behind and to the right of the subject at 1 o'clock. The strobe, in manual mode, was triggered by a Yongnuo RF-603N. I held a silver reflector disc in front of the figure in an attempt to shed a little more light there. As you can see the colors vary depending on the thickness of the material.
Other still life pictures that I've taken are in my Still LIfe set. www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/sets/72157635247182331/
I wanted a high contrast look for this black and white, and I particularly wanted rim lighting.
Lighting stuff: The rim lighting and backlighting came from a YN560 in a Rogue grid behind and to the right of the flower. I kept adjusting it until I got the look I wanted. Fill light came from a YN560III in a 24 inch softbox at camera left. The strobes, in manual mode, was triggered by a Yongnuo RF-603N.
Other Calla Lily pictures are in my Calla Lilly set. www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/sets/72157626082181550/...
Other black and white images that I've attempted can be seen in my Black And White Album.
Playing around with lighting & filters. I didn't intend to keep the cat ears on, but it almost feels like they belong there.
Just did a quick review of the new Rogue Grid by ExpoImaging...
Check out the review HERE.
Strobist: Nikon SB-800 in a Lastolite Ezybox above and slightly camera left just out of frame, triggered with the pop-up flash via CLS
Update:
3rd place winner in the Nikon Club Nederland "foto opdracht": "een muziekplaat"
D90 with pop up flash >> trigger for the sb900 that was located in front of the viewing direction of the LEGO head. The SB900 was fitted with a roque grid flash color filter (blue) to create a blacklight effect. The turntable at the back is actually an projection on a computer screen ;-)
Te koop via: wiljovanessen.werkaandemuur.nl/index/127/nl/werken/view/6...
© 2012 Wiljo van Essen
This looks to be the last flower from our epiphyllum plants for this year.
Lighting stuff: Lit with one YN560-III in a 24 inch x 36 inch gridded softbox placed at camera left. The flash, in manual mode was triggered by a Yongnuo RF-603N.
Over the years, I've taken quite a few "Epi" pictures, and they're in my Epiphyllum Flowers album, if you like that sort of thing.
www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/albums/72157680754580643
Other plants, flowers, fruit or thingys that I've photographed using strobes can be seen in my Strobe Lit Plant set. In the description for that set, I list resources that I've used to learn how to light with off camera flash. www.flickr.com/photos/9422
Fuji X100T + TCL, cactus RF60X in Phottix easy up octa umbrella above subject. and a second cactus RF60X with rogue grid pointed at the background.
I photographed this "bird" in my sister's garden.
I wanted the flower to stand out from the background, so I used camera settings that caused the background to go quite dark before I turned on the strobes. If I'd wanted more ambient light, I would have used a slower shutter speed. I wanted the thin translucent parts of the flowers to glow, so I backlit them by placing a YN560-III in a Rogue grid behind the flowers. Fill light came from a YN560 in an 8.6 inch Lastolite softbox in front and at camera left. The strobes were in manual mode, and I played with the power output until I got the look I wanted.
I really like these beautiful flowers, and have exploited a few of them over the years. If you like this sort of thing, you might not hate my Bird Of Paradise album.
www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/sets/72157631967781801/
Other plants, flowers, fruit or thingys that I've photographed using strobes can be seen in my Strobe Lit Plant set. In the description for that set, I list resources that I've used to learn how to light with off camera flash, and the equipment that I use. www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/sets/72157628079460544/
Testing the new Nikon SB-910 strobe light.
Nikon SB-910 on light stand camera left at 45 degrees @ 1/8 using an Expoimaging Rogue Grid. Triggered via Pocket Wizard Plus II.
Nikon D700 / Nikon 50mm f1.4G
I picked this hibiscus in the garden this afternoon and brought it inside to exploit where it's easier to control the light.
I placed the flower on a mirror and then setup the main light as a Yongnuo flash in a 24 inch gridded soft box at camera right. Back lighting is from another Yongnuo flash in a Rogue grid hand held and behind the flower at camera left. The strobes and my tripod mounted camera were triggered with a Yongnuo RF-603N.
I've photographed a lot of plants and flowers, because they're all around us, work cheap, and never complain. I have an album of these images with over 1200 pictures, and for each one, I have described how I lit them, in case you're interested in that kind of thing.
This yellow epi bloomed today, so it's at its prime now.
I wanted to exploit the luminous qualities of the petals so I backlit it with a YN560-III in a Rogue grid behind the flower on the left side, and a YN560 in a Honl snoot behind on the right side. Fill light in front came from a YN560-II in an 8.6 inch Lastolite soft box in front at camera left and pointed at the center of the flower. All strobes, in manual mode, were adjusted one at a time until I got the look that I wanted. I triggered them with a Yongnuo RF-603N.
Other pictures that I've taken of epis are in my Cactus and Succulents set. www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/sets/72157633383093236/
Other plants, flowers, fruit or thingys that I've photographed using strobes can be seen in my Strobe Lit Plant set. In the description for that set, I list resources that I've used to learn how to light with off camera flash. www.flickr.com/photos/9422
"Maestro in his own mind..."
Shot with the Nikon D300 and Nikon 28-70mm F2.8 AFS lens @ 28mm. Manual exposure mode, F11, 1/50th second shutter speed, ISO 200, spot metering.
Main Light:
Yongnuo YN560 II in a Rogue grid with 25 degree honeycomb insert and a full cut CTO gel hovered over the piano on a boomed light stand. Flash was in manual mode @ 1/32nd power with the head zoomed to 50mm.
Fill light:
To light the outsides of the overhead piano sheet music light, I used a Nikon SB-900 with an 8" HONL Speed Snoot. That flash was backed up about 8 feet to camera right. Flash in manual mode @ 1/32nd power with the head zoomed to 105mm.
Flashes triggered via PocketWizard Plus II on flashes and camera. Camera tripod-mounted and shutter triggered with Nikon wired remote shutter release. Zacuto Z-Finder Pro used to magnify the live view screen to obtain focus during manual focusing.
In 2013, I'm doing a 365 shot a day project with the theme "Toys. When you're not looking". The idea is to capture familiar toys dealing with the situations and challenges that life throws at them in the real world, just like a human would.
To the left is a specially crafted microbrew developed by Half Acre and Next Restaurant for their menu honoring the great el Bulli restaurant. Named for the french bulldogs of the original owners Dr. and Mrs. Schilling, elBulli became an icon in the world of molecular gastronomy. To the right is Tucker, the cutest dog in the world.
Strobist info: SB-800 with a rogue grid camera right feathered onto Tucker and the blanket at TTL -1.0. Handheld SB-800 above camera pointing down at TTL -2.0 for fill. f/16 @ 1/200 and ISO 100.
Two light product shoot. One Yongnuo 560III as main light with Rogue grid (25 Degree). One Yongnuo 560III with blue gel bare head for the background.
Strobist Info:
Canon EOS 5D Mark II with Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD Lens, with a PocketWizard TT1 in the hotshoe triggering the speedlights mounted on PocketWizard TT5s. Canon 430EX II Speedlight with a Rogue ROGUEGRID on camera left pointing at white background. Canon 580EX II Speedlight in a Westcott 28 inch Apollo Softbox on camera right.
“Life isn't about finding yourself. Life is about creating yourself.” ― George Bernard Shaw
Nikon D700 / Nikon 35mm f2 D
Strobist Information: Nikon SB-600 with orange gel behind subject @ 1/64 and Nikon SB-28 with Rogue Honeycomb Grid @ 1/64 lower left of subject all triggered via Cactus V5.
Off camera flash on a light stand, flash was fitted with a rogue grid 3 in 1, orange gel, set at 16 deg hence the tight light.. Standard 125.F8 Flash at 1/8th.
No vignette was added post.
Neutral base was thanks to the white bathroom roller blind!
The object is an air freshner!
I picked this rose bud early yesterday morning before the heat could do it in, and brought it inside to photograph. We've had a bit of a heat wave here lately with temps in the low 100's.
Lighting stuff. I backlit the bud by placing a YN560-II in a Rogue grid behind the flower, at camera right. I then placed a YN560 in a 24 inch softbox at camera left to fill in that side, and then held a small mirror at camera right for fill. The strobes, in manual mode were triggered by a Yongnuo RF-603N.
Other plants, flowers, fruit or thingys that I've photographed using strobes can be seen in my Strobe Lit Plant album. In the description for that set, I list resources that I've used to learn how to light with off camera flash, and the equipment that I use. www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/sets/72157628079460544/
Other picture that I've taken of roses can be seen in my Roses album. www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/sets/72157624084160734/
This tulip was not in the best condition but was just playing around with a new Rogue Grid - YN 460 below and behind the tulip, pointingup at the wall, at 3/4 power with Rogue 45 degrees grid. Triggered by Yongnuo RF603's.
I hope to incorporate this in something else a little later, but, if not, it was some practice. I was going for that "too-dark-and-contrasty-aviation-museum" lighting that comes from pointing spots at subjects in large, dark rooms. I haven't decided if it's too encourage people to buy the professional photos in the gift shop or because they really can't afford the electricity to properly light the place. Or maybe it's both.
Strobist: single Yongnuo flash directly overhead, with Rogue Grid, triggered by a Aputure Trigmaster radio remote. A piece of white foamcore was used to bounce a little bit of flash back towards the bottom of the model. I adjusted the color temperature (made it much warmer, to go with the museum lighting idea), but, otherwise, it is SOOC (from CHDK raw file developed in Lightroom).
Stacey
As a beta tester for Rogue Flashbenders, I decided to run a workshop in the 40's style of George Hurrell.
We used Veronica Lake as our muse.
Nikon D3, 70-200vr
Rogue Flashbenders: SB900 with snoot as main light, SB800 with snoot as hair light, SB800 with grid for background and gobo light.
Stacey
As a beta tester for Rogue Flashbenders, I decided to run a workshop in the 40's style of George Hurrell.
We used Veronica Lake as our muse.
Nikon D3, 70-200vr
Rogue Flashbenders: SB900 with snoot as main light, SB800 with snoot as hair light, SB800 with grid for background and gobo light.
Tried out a new light-weight lighting setup this evening. That means you have to look at my ugly mug :) I am very happy with the quality of the light and it is super light. Consists of two LP160s, a rogue grid, and a rogue flashbender. That kit and a couple VALs (voice activated lightstands, i.e. humans) is all I think I'll need for headshots/portraits at conferences and such.
Strobist:
LP160 @ 1/8th @ 50mm with large rogue flashbender attached level with subjects head,camera left, about 18" in front of subject and angled to skim across face.
LP160 @ 1/32nd @ 105mm with rogue grid at 16%, i.e. very focused, camera right, about 3' behind, 2' above, and pointed right at subjects head.
Camera: Nikon D7000
Lens/Exposure: 18-270 mm f/3.5-6.3@100 mm / ISO 100 / ¹⁄₁₂₅ sec at f/8.0 / Manual / Handheld
"The dictate of the light says: Know yourself and what you are. The dark replies, by all means, but then become afraid." - Tanith Lee
Just received Expoimaging's Rogue Grid and had to play around with it for a bit. I like the versatility of this new piece of gear.
Nikon D700 | Nikkor 105mm f2.5 AIS | f8 | 1/125 | ISO 200 | Nikon SB-28 @ 1/64 with Rogue Grid left of subject and triggered by PocketWizard Plus II
Gotham is safe tonight.
Special thanks to my Wife, Denise for helping out on this one by ever so gently blowing on Batman's cape to get it to fling backwards during the shot. Image created with the Nikon D7000 and Nikon 35mm F1.8G prime lens. Manual exposure mode, F8, 1/60th second shutter speed, ISO 200, spot metering. Camera was tripod mounted and shutter triggered with Nikon infrared remote.
Main Light:
Nikon SB900 speedlight in manual mode @ 1/4 power with the flash head zoomed to 24mm. Stofen diffuser on the flash with the flash shot through a Westcott 34" white satin shoot through umbrella which was flown out over the left side of Batman on an Avenger C-Stand with boom arm. Flash triggered with PocketWizard Plus II radio transceiver on flash and camera.
Blue rim Light:
Nikon SB900 speedlight in manual mode # 1/32 power with flash head zoomed to 105mm. Rogue grid with CTB (Color temperature blue) flash gel was placed over the flash head to create the blue rim light on the front of Batman and the inside of his cape. Flash was on a light stand and placed to camera right and about five feet behind Batman.
Rim light for cape:
Yongnuo YN560 Mark II speedlight in manual mode @ 1/64 power with flash head zoomed to 105mm. HONL Speed Grid placed over flash head to concentrate and aim the light onto the back of Batman's cape as it blew in the wind. Flash in a Manfrotto Justin Clamp that was clamped to the edge of the table.
In 2013, I'm doing a 365 shot a day project with the theme "Toys. When you're not looking". The idea is to capture familiar toys dealing with the situations and challenges that life throws at them in the real world, just like a human would. You can follow the progress of the project on GreggObst.com
Introduction
I recently shot Daniel using some new flash equipment from Rogue, including three of their Flash Bender Products. This was a test shoot of several Rogue products to see how they worked with a 2-, 3- and 4- speedlite setup. Rogue asked if I would try them out and provide them some feedback. I'm a small flash shooter, and already have a couple of Rouge products, so was excited to try out some of their new gear.
Typically, my gearbag includes the poles, diffusers and triggers to use two Canon speedlites and three large Vivitar 285's. Its usually pretty easy to find flash modifiers for the Canon gear, but the bulky design of the Vivitar flashes often leave me hunting for white foam core, DIY velcro flags, or shooting against walls.
Rogue Gear Tested
All links are to Amazon.com.
Rogue FlashBenders ROGUERESM Small Positionable Reflector - $34.95
Rogue FlashBenders ROGUERELG Large Positionable Reflector - $39.95
Rogue FlashBenders ROGUEFLAG Bounce Card / Flag - $29.95
Rogue FlashBender Large Flash Diffusion Panel - $19.95
Rogue ROGUEGRID 3-In-1 Stacking Honeycomb Grid System with Pouch - $49.95
I have been using "cheap" gobos and bounce reflectors, including some DIY gear. And my bag includes one Honl Snoot/Reflector (about $30 street).
The Setups
The two identical images with Daniel sitting in front of the green wall (one in color, other in B&W) are nearly bare-flash. The Flash Benders basically acted as flags (or gobos, or masks) to prevent flash spill into the lens.
I used the Small and Bounce Card / Flag to light up Daniel on extreme left and right. This created the dramatic lighting/shadow examples and extreme shallow fall off.
The background was list with a flash and the large reflector to soften the shadows slightly.
When shooting Daniel sitting in the Desk Chairs, I used the flash benders as a more traditional "bounce", creating softer light and virtually no shadows on the background. This is where I used the large flash diffusion panel. This basically covers the flash and turns it into a softbox about 9" square. The best results from this setup was achieved having the soft light source as close to the subject as possible.
About Rogue Flash Benders
Rogue uses a combination elastic and button system to secure the bounce flags on the flash. On other systems I use, the flags are either Velcroed to the flash, or held on with thick/heavy rubber bands. The benders have metal spines inside that hold the material in shape after you position it. The material is canvas, not flexible (or inflexible) plastic, and the edges are held together with nylon bias tape edgings that in most cases are double stitched. The "white" portion of the flash bounce material is made of a thick vinyl.
Pros and Cons
The two-snaps and elastic band system to secure the benders to the flash is rather unique. I was concerned it wouldn't be large enough since three of my flashes are 5 or 10-year old thick-headed Vivitars. But they held on perfectly just like with my two Canon flashes. The snaps make it really easy to position/reposition, unlike my velcro flags that have to be unzipped or the thick rubber bands that have to be pulled around. I have to use so much force to pull the rubber bands free to move my other flash bouncers around that I fear if my hand slips, my other hand holding the flash will fly causing the entire setup to topple. I hate bounce systems with those thick rubber bands and will never buy another.
The Rogue flash benders seem very well made as described above, and I expect them to last a very long time. But I'm curious if the elastic strap will last after many uses/years. If they don't, or God forbid if I lose them, the flash benders can still be held on using the typical rubber bands or velcro straps.
Based on the material, edging, and the construction of the spines, the Rogue Flash Benders are heavier than the Honl snoots, and certainly more heavier than simple on-flash diffusers (or cardboard). However they are really well-made. And they are easy to transport, packs flat, unlike my flash sphere from Fong (about the same weight).
The part of the flash bender that attaches to the flash isn't canvas, its a vinyl material. This helps hold the bender in place, but I wonder if a bit more tacky material would be better. As an outdoor shooter, a small bit of wind can turn a flag into a sail, causing it to spin or dislodge. I haven't tested this system outdoors yet, but wind is one of the reasons I turned to the thick rubber bands and direct-to-flash velcro systems.
The metal "spines" of the flash benders are what makes this system very unique. If you use the Honl snoot, you know that gravity is a problem for positioning ... and keeping it in shape over extended periods. Didn't have this problem with the Rouge benders. The metal bars that "shape" the benders are attached directly to the bender's outer canvas material with a double stitched material. Once "bent", they stay put.
Rogue's flash diffusion panel system attach directly to a Rouge Flash bender, creating a pocket light panel for small flash. NOTE: You have to buy both the Bender AND the correct sized Diffusion panel for this tool to work correctly. If I had bought this at a camera store, I might have missed the fact that I needed to buy both (even though it's clearly written on the box). LOL
I enjoyed using the flash diffusion panel the most and wish I had two. By far the diffusion panel is much easier to pack than my 14" and 12" flash soft boxes, and sets up in seconds rather than several minutes. Its much lighter too. Since I haven't had it very long, not sure how long the white diffusion panel will remain white, or if it will start to turn yellow like some other products. Since the size is limited to about 9", I had to get the flashes closer to the subject, and it will only accommodate one flash, unlike my Cheetah Qbox that I sometimes squeeze in a two-flash system for outdoor shoots. I'm wondering if Rogue will be up-sizing their bounce+diffusion panel system in the near future? (HINT) :)
I've been using the Rogue 3-In-1 Stacking Honeycomb Grid System for speedlites for a while. Many folks use it to "highlight" the face or create spotlights on a background. My typical use is a little different. Sometimes when taking shots of folks with dark clothing (such as a gentleman in a corporate headshot with a dark suite), its really easy to nail the exposure on the face, but end up with very dark exposure on the clothes. The Rogue Grid makes it easy to throw that extra light ONLY on the clothing and not over-expose the face. It also helps with hair lighting in a pinch, as with the photos of Daniel above.
The grid also uses the elastic bands with snaps, which makes installing the hood really easy. But attaching the honeycomb grid to the hood takes a bit of practice. I've considered riveting or maybe super-glueing the hood and grid, but that would make swapping out the different size grids a bit of a pain. Once you get used to setting it up a couple of times, you get the hang of it -- but still need to budget time to set it up. One thing's for sure, its a much more professional look than my original DIY grid.
Conclusion
I'll never abandon DIY or lower-priced gear options when appropriate. In fact, at HoustonPhotowalks.com I do DIY Lunch events several times a year (members get together and build various photography toys).
However, I'm a big fan of Rogue benders and their grid system. With Daniel's test shoot, I spent far less time fiddling with rubber bands and velcro ... and more time shooting. Figuring out how the diffusion panel went together required reading instructions, but other than that, everything worked with very little setup time.
And in the end, we want to shoot more, not fiddle with flashes, right? :)