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30 May, 2011
Week 20 - Rose Kulfi
A couple of years ago, in a moment of poorly-thought-out spontaneity, I bought a bottle of Lebanese rose syrup. It was only later that I realized that I had no idea what I could use it for.
Then I remembered a Middle-Eastern cooking blog I'd been reading. The blogger - the extraordinary Mercedes - had spent a month making a new ice cream each day the previous summer. Since rose is pretty well established as a flavor profile in Middle Eastern cooking, I figured that if anyone could help me come up with a recipe for rose-flavored ice cream, it would be her.
I emailed Mercedes and she was extremely helpful. She hadn't ever made ice cream with rose syrup, but she improvised a recipe for me as a starting point, using a standard custard base and a tiny amount of the rose syrup. (As it turns out, a tiny amount is just about right; it's powerful stuff.)
I made a batch according to her recipe and it was very good, especially for a beta-version prototype. It tasted just a tiny bit flat though and I thought it might benefit from a little bit of acid - lemon juice or maybe balsamic vinegar. I ran it by Mercedes, who agreed that a little citrus juice would probably zip it up.
So - many months later - I tried the recipe again, tweaking it with a little lemon juice. This was even better, though not exactly what I wanted it to be.
About a week ago, in the middle of an early morning walk, I was listening to a food podcast and suddenly realized that I hadn't actually heard anything they had said, because I was - for whatever reason - turning over the Rose Ice Cream recipe in my head.
So, this weekend, I tried out Rose Ice Cream 3.0. Instead of cooking a custard base with cream and egg yolks, I subbed the base out with ricotta cheese. I added a little bit more salt, to tweak the cheesiness of the base, mixed everything with the whisk attachment in my stand mixer, then froze it in my ice cream churn.
Once the ice cream was finished in the churn, I packed it into a container and put it in the freezer to harden up. I had a little bit too much of the mixture to fit in the churn, so I just froze that in plastic popsicle molds.
Results - the ice cream was delicious, but a little too rich. I might sub out half of the ricotta with half&half next time. Basically, though, this we're almost there.
The big surprise though was the non-churned rose popsicles. They were really good. Yes, I know this is not how it is supposed to be made, but somehow, I ended up with really good Rose Kulfi (a dense, rich Indian ice cream).
Grades:
Rose Ice Cream - B+
Rose Kulfi - A
Recipe:
3 cups whole-milk ricotta
1/2 tsp. fine sea salt
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 cup rose syrup
juice of 1/2 a large lime
1) Mix all ingredients together with whisk attachment in stand mixer.
2) Freeze in ice cream churn or pour into popsicle or kulfi molds.
3) Freeze.
Makes approximately 1 quart of ice cream, or some (a couple dozen?) kulfi popsicles.
I wanted to try a new cocktail from the Mr. Boston guide (well, new TO ME - because, let's face it: with a name like Mary Pickford ((America's Sweetheart, circa 1925)), how "new" could it be?), so I went with the Mary Pickford Cocktail, which consists of white rum, pineapple juice and trace amounts of grenadine and maraschino liquour.
Interestingly, this wasn't too sweet and the maraschino added a surprisingly authoritative note that went really well with a curry.
If this drink had a soundtrack, it would be a mash-up of "It's a Jolly 'Olliday With Mary" from the Mary Poppins soundtrack and Jimi Hendrix's "The Wind Cries Mary".
Grade - B+
13 February, 2011
One of my friends gave us The Art of Indian Vegetarian Cooking as a wedding present eight years ago. It is supposed to be the most comprehensive, useful guide to Indian Cooking around. (It's roughly the size of a phone book.) I have to confess that I've always been intimidated by it. I'm pretty sure I've only cooked one or two recipes from it ever.
So I tried this.
Ananas Hari Matar Shorba is a rich, soup-like curry with pineapple and peas cooked in a spicy nut puree. It is finished with freshly ground nutmeg and stir-fried almonds and cashews.
This is a definite winner.
Yes, you can taste the peas, which somehow work perfectly with the fresh pineapple. Yes, the nutmeg stands out; it's delicious - it ties the nuts and chilies together with the rest of the dish. The niftiest note though, was the garnish of stir-fried nuts. I may or may not have over-cooked them, but they took on this intensely "popcorn-y" flavor that was perfect with the curry. They also added a note of crispness to the dish.
I wrote this all down in the book. Now that it's a little grease-spattered and marked up, it's a little less intimidating.
Grade - A
[Leftovers Note - like seemingly all curries, this was not nearly as good the next morning as it was when it was prepared. Throwing out leftovers is a hard lesson, but I think it needs to be done.]
Recipe of the Week
Week 10
Biryani
This recipe is from Mark Bittman's How To Cook Everything Vegetarian. I have to admit that after last week's tamale debacle, my confidence was shaken. This recipe seemed like a nice confidence builder - I had all the ingredients on hand and the idea of cooking rice in yogurt seemed intriguing.
So how'd it go?
Pretty well. It was tasty enough, if not particularly thrilling. The yogurt gave it a nice sourness in the background, but it could have used more spices, particularly the cloves, which I would double next time.
I had a very hungry wife, who ate this (it must be emphasized that she was very hungry), but without enormous enthusiasm. A nice chutney definitely improved this, but it will take some tinkering before this is a truly successful dish.
Grade - B-minus
1 February, 2011
I was on the road this weekend, so I'm a little late with this week's recipe, but I decided to try something a little audacious. I stumbled onto this recipe for naan.
"But, John," I hear you say, "that looks like perfectly charred, buttery, authentic-ish naan."
And, of course, you'd be right.
"But, how did you do that, when you own neither a tandoor nor a gas stove with an open flame?"
Two words:
Blow. Torch.
[Man! I really like my blow-torch: the most unexpectedly awesome kitchen tool I own. Aside from using it for VERY occasionally brulé-ing things, it is the perfect tool for starting charcoal in the grill without newspaper or lighter fluid.]
Oh, yeah... the naan.
It was very good, if a little difficult to coordinate by myself. This might be excellent for a dinner party, where two or three people could start an assembly line and have a blast making these.
For just the three of us (Okay, the two of us - The Boy wasn't interested) it was a little labor intensive and resulted in a lot of spousal eye-rolling. It was delicious, but not ENTIRELY worth the amount of work involved.
Grade - A minus
Week 19
22 May, 2011
Tom and Jerry
I wasn't feeling terrifically inspired this week, so I decided to go with a cocktail. For a change of pace, instead of the Mr. Boston guide, I consulted the Essential New York Times Cookbook by Amanda Hesser.
I'd always heard of the classic Tom and Jerry cocktail, so I decided to tackle it. This involved a lot of effort to beat an egg white, fold the yolk back into it and heat and froth milk. This recipe also involved rum, brandy, sugar and freshly grated nutmeg.
I have to admit to being a bit conflicted about this cocktail.
Did I like it? - A bit.
Was it worth the effort involved? - No.
Was it worth the calories involved? - No.
Will I make it again? - Probably.
Go figure.
Grade - B
Another recipe from Cooks Illustrated.
This is a deceptively simple recipe - a basic pie dough with sliced tomatoes, layered with a cheddar cheese, mayonnaise and cornstarch filling, with a light sprinkling of chopped scallions.
The recipe got pretty self-conscious about the pie-dough, but aside from baking the pie on the very bottom rack of the oven, there was nothing particularly tricky about it.
The finicky bit of this recipe is prepping the tomatoes. Even though the recipe didn't call for it, I blanched and peeled them before slicing them. The instructions were pretty explicit about salting and drying the tomato slices as much as possible, which makes a lot of sense. If the tomatoes are too wet, the filling of the pie will never cohere (Is that a word? Is it the actual word I want here?)
Also, this dish is designed to be eaten at room temperature. We were a little dubious about that at first, but we are total believers now. This is really, REALLY good!
We'll cook this at least one more time this summer.
Yay, summer!
Link to recipe: www.cookscountry.com/pwlogin.asp?did=5603&area=recipe...
13 February, 2011
This sounded promising: rum, grenadine, bitters, triple sec and maraschino.
It was an amazing, deep ruby color, but it was too sweet to drink. (Which really says something, coming from me. I was previously unaware that anything could be too sweet to drink.)
Interestingly enough, I had a spoonful of my son's Spaghetti-os immediately afterwards, and it went together pretty well.
Grade - D
6 February, 2011
This week I made yet another curry, but I'm not including a picture of it.
Lord knows, I love curry, but even I have to admit that a picture of one curry pretty much looks like any other - some white lumps in a reddish/brown sauce, flecked with cilantro.
(This will not, of course, prevent me from posting future curries - just not tonight's.)
Also, although this recipe is pretty promising - Sweet-Tart Cheese with Potatoes and Cauliflower in a Vinegar Sauce - I've taken a major liberty with it. I omitted the cauliflower and simply doubled up on the potatoes, which has probably changed the flavor profile of this curry substantially. I did this because I hate cauliflower with the white-hot, burning intensity of 10,000 exploding suns.
But back to the cocktail.
I thought it would be fitting to try the East India Cocktail #1 from the Mr. Boston Guide to go with this curry. It is mostly brandy, spiked with trace amounts of pineapple juice, triple sec and rum, with a dash of bitters.
This may be my new favorite drink.
On first tasting, it wasn't as sweet as I normally like, but as the bitters kicked in, it became more and more... um... err... well, colonial in taste. It has a brisk, Anglo-Indian authority that appeals to me.
Grade - A
[The curry was good, by the way. Not brilliant, but credible. For almost anybody else, the cauliflower would have added a welcome note. But not me. Nope.]
About a year ago, I picked up The Accidental Vegetarian by Simon Rimmer from the bargain bin at Barnes and Noble and have been awfully pleased with it.
Well, that is to say , all the recipes SOUND really good and the photos are great, but we've only actually made one recipe from it up until now - Morroccan Spaghetti, which we loved.
This week, I knew I was going to be in a hurry, so I decided to take a shot at a "Simple Tomato Tart".
It definitely is simple, you have to give it that - sliced plum tomatoes on puff pastry with salt, pepper, melted butter and a litte sugar to help it caramelize in the oven.
We were pleased-ish with it. I think this dish is only as good as its tomatoes and it IS January, after all. It would be really nice next summer with some awsome fresh tomatoes, but the combination of the plum tomatoes and the sugar made it taste a little spaghetti sauce-y. Next time, I would skip the sugar and raise the temperature of the oven to give the tomatoes more caramelization.
We served it with a lime/roasted peanut coleslaw that worked really well with the pastry/tomato flavors of the tart.
(On the plus side - I got to try the trick of skinning the tomatoes by cutting a small cross in the sharp end, blanching them in boiling water for 30 seconds, then plunging them into an ice bath. I'd always wanted to try that and it worked really well!)
Week 11 - 14 March, 2011
Crushed Peas w/Smoky Sesame Dressing
Leek, Lemon and Feta Quiche
My patient and long-suffering wife asked me to make a pie for Pi Day (3.14), so I decided to go with a quiche. This one was delicious, though the wife in question thought there was "some weird taste" in the background. The original recipe called for ouzo, which I didn't have, so I crushed some anise seeds and steeped them in a tablespoon or so of coconut rum. I also substituted a conventional pie crust for the puff pastry called for by the recipe. I liked the way the lemon zest and the feta worked off each other. I'd definitely make this again.
The peas, on the other hand, were a little less impressive. The tahini dressing was great. I think I'll definitely use it again in a potato salad or a mock chicken salad, but I was a little underwhelmed by the peas themselves.
Grades:
Quiche - A minus,
Peas - B minus
Week 14
Kadhi Pakoras and Roasted Fennel
Tried several new recipes this week, some more successfully than others.
In this particular case, the Kadhi Pakoras (Chickpea Dumplings) were not good, but the Roasted Fennel and Onions, glazed with apple cider were outstanding. We abandoned the pakoras after just a few bites, but I ate three bowls full of the fennel. It was sweet and spicy, w/ a subtle licorice-y flavor in the background. It was really good tossed with some pistachios.
A definite repeat.
Kadhi Pakoras - D
Roasted Fennel - A
I barely made it under the wire to make something new from a recipe this week. Ultimately, I decided to try a cocktail I'd seen Alton Brown make on Good Eats that had looked really good - a simple daiquiri.
See recipe here: www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/daiquiri-recipe/i...
I'm a big fan of rum, but I don't drink it as fast as I used to, so gift bottles of the really good stuff tend to accumulate. A classic daiquiri usually uses white rum to keep the taste simple and the color clear. I decided to go with a bottle of Pyrate rum that I had on hand, so the color was darker than it technically should have been, but the flavor was great.
Also, I used standard ice cubes. Alton Brown has been pretty specific on his show and on the Food Network page that you should use crushed ice for this drink. I'd go along with that. This was a great drink, but it would have been even better if it had diluted more with ice in the shaker.
All in all, a very successful experiment and definitely worth doing again.
Week 16
17 April, 2011
Two more recipes from The Art of Indian Vegetarian Cooking by Yamuna Devi:
1) An apple and cardamom salad, the less said about, the better. (Though, even as I type this, we are making more granola to mix with it for tomorrow's breakfast.)
2) Moong Nariyal Kachamber - a salad made from mung beans (moong dal), cucumbers and shredded coconut.
As I went to make this, I realized that while I had four or five different varieties of dal, I didn't actually have the one called for, so I subbed it out with canned chickpeas. The result was very good. I'll definitely make this again.
Grade - A minus
This came from "The Complete Book of Greek Cooking", p.234.
It has a VERY dense batter and bakes "low and slow" for a dense cake, which is then drenched in lime syrup (which is AMAZING, even on its own, by the way!)
This recipe was developed using metric measurements, then converted to cups and farenheit; I'm pretty sure something was mistranslated, because the cake ended up being very overcooked - not burnt, just way drier than it should have been.
We've decided to make this again and fiddle with the time and temperature. Even dry-ish, it's very good. Baked for about half as long, it should be spectacular.
Addendum - For Version 2.0, we dropped the baking temperature to 305 degrees and baked it for an hour, instead of the hour and a half at 350 that the recipe calls for.
TOTAL success - moist, sweet and limey! A new favorite.
We saw these on Cook's Country, a PBS cooking show done by the same production team as America's Test Kitchen. They sounded really good.
The big secret to these is crisping the potato skins with butter, then filling them with a potato/boursin filling.
They were good - definitely the best stuffed potatoes I've had - but probably not worth the finicky amount of detail. I'd much rather have really good mashed potatoes.
A note - they were even better reheated two days later; what we call the "Casserole Effect".
Frank got garlic jelly one year for Christmas. He's a huge garlic freak and often gets something garlicky. For whatever reason, this jar ended up in the back of the cupboard and it was forgotten. Not too long ago, during a cupboard clean out it was re-discovered, opened, and thoroughly enjoyed.
Here it is spread over butter on half a ciabatta roll. Mmm. So so good.
I'm going to have to find a recipe for it and make more.
Wednesday is Library Day. The Boy and I go to our town library each Wednesday evening so that he can pick three new books for the week.
A couple of weeks ago, I decided to check out a couple of cookbooks. One of them was "A Taste Of Palace Life: Royal Indian Cookery" by Manju Shivra Singh. The recipes looked intriguing and I took a stab at Sweet Lemon Pickle (Neebu le meetba achaar).
It took a pound of lemons, 20 cloves of garlic and a week to make. I was slightly dubious - it looked fairly generically chutney-ish - but it was so good that I immediately went online and ordered my own copy of the book.
The Taste - Sweet, slightly acidic, a little like mango chutney, until you finish chewing the lemon and you get hit over the head with an intense lemony taste that is AMAZING!
These are so darned quick and easy to make... and a good thing, too, since they disappear fast. Better double the recipe and hide a dozen or two for yourself.
ingredients:
3 doz pretzels, waffle shaped or traditional (shown)
1 bag of Rolo candies
3 doz shelled pecan halves
Preheat oven to 250 F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment or foil. Spread pretzels on lined pan in a single layer. Place one unwrapped Rolo in the center of each pretzel. Place the pan in the oven for 4-5 minutes. Remove from oven and press one pecan half into the top of each Rolo. If the Rolo candies are not soft enough to squish down, return the pan to the oven for one or two more minutes.
When all the pecan halves have been pressed into the Rolos, place the pan in the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes to firm up the candy.
Store between layers of waxed paper in an airtight container.
Don't worry about how long they will last. Someone will find the container of these Turtle Snacks and they'll be gone before you know it.
This photo is the 12/14/08 recipe of the week at http://passitonplates.blogspot.com/
23 January, 2011
Week Four
Brandy Milk Punch
This recipe is a bit of a cop-out; I've made something similar before, but this time, I followed the recipe using brandy. Mr. Boston called for two ounces of regular brandy and a little sugar, but I subbed those ingredients out for two and a half ounces of ginger brandy.
It was good - mild and a little spicy, topped with freshly grated nutmeg, which is always nice, but it could have used a little more of a kick, so I might go with a full three ounces of ginger brandy next time.
Grade - B+
Week 15
10 April, 2011
Banana Cow
Another rum drink from the Mr. Boston Guide that I've been meaning to try for awhile. This is a pretty simple cocktail - white rum, creme de banana and cream, with a dash of grenadine (because, Lord knows, whoever Mr. Boston was, he loved him some grenadine...), shaken over crushed ice and served with a banana slice and fresh-grated nutmeg.
Reading that description, the Banana Cow sounds pretty questionable, but actually is very nice indeed. It needs a light hand on the nutmeg, but otherwise is pretty foolproof and delicious.
Grade - A minus
Week 17
7 May, 2011
Lassi
I've taken a couple of weeks off, but I received several excellent cookbooks for my birthday at the end of April, so I had to make something. This lassi is from an amazing book that my son gave me for my birthday - Street Food of India by Sephi Bergerson
.
I'm sure that this lassi tastes authentic, but for American tastes, I'd double the amount of sugar and cut the amount of water in half. (In fact, I did that and it was just about perfect.) The rose syrup that I added looks awesome, but a little bit goes a very long way, and I wouldn't use more than half a teaspoonful or so.
Attempt #1 - C+
Attempt #2 - A minus
29 June, 2011
Another summer recipe from www.chow.com/recipes/25674-heirloom-tomatobasil-pasta-wit....
Really awesome tomatoes aren't in season yet, so I used grape tomatoes in this.
It was spectacularly good.
My only quibble was that it was a little too salty - the salt used to bleed the tomatoes, plus the kalamatta olives, plus the feta cheese added up to a little too much. I might cut back on the salt and rinse the olives next time, but over all, this was really good.
Grade - A minus
I missed about three weeks of reporting on new recipes, but I made up for it a little bit by trying two new recipes this week - a cabbage curry with paneer and an applesauce cake.
The curry was good, but frankly cabbage curry is not tremendously photogenic, so I decided to shoot the applesauce cake.
I watch America's Test Kitchen on PBS each week, but I hadn't ever tried one of their recipes - they seem awfully fussy. This one looked so good though that I decided to try it out.
Verdict - Yes, the recipe IS very fussy. The cake is really, REALLY moist though - the best texture I've ever gotten from a cake. I ground my own cloves and nutmeg, which made the spice flavor a little more intense than I think it was supposed to be and the apple was a little more of a background flavor.
Will I make this again? Absolutely!
Recipe Link - www.americastestkitchen.com/recipe.asp?recipeids=3631&...
From "The Accidental Vegetarian" by Simon Rimmer, p.92.
This tart has a shortbread crust and uses four large onions, sliced and cooked down. Four onions may not seem like very much, until you actually slice them very thin. I ended up having to switch from a non-stick frying pan to a large soup pot to hold them.
It took about an hour to cook the onions down enough for them to carmalize. (The last five minutes or so was intense and nerve-wracking, but TOTALLY worth it!).
Notes - I overbaked the crust a little (I need to work on my blind-baking skills), but it was still fine. The mustard flavor is great, but it could use a little kick, so next time, I'll substitute part of the stoneground mustard with a spicier one. The crust might even work with whole-wheat flour.
Overall assessment - Very Good. Definitely worth a 2.0 trial.
One of my students gave me a copy of What's Cooking - Vegetarian by Jenny Sacy for Christmas a few years ago and it's been sitting on our kitchen shelf with about ten other gift vegetarian cookbooks ever since.
This weekend, I decided to try one of the recipes from it and in spite of the ominous name, chose Vegetable Toad In The Hole.
It came out pretty well! The basic T-in-H technique was intriguing and suggests a lot of other uses. We're thinking about trying a more Mediterranian version with onions, capers, artichokes, olives and feta.
Not a spectatular, wake the kids, phone the neighbors success, but a definite success, nonetheless.
Week 9
Strawberry Tamales
1 March, 2011
These should have been good.
I followed the recipe, damn it!
I even figured out how to stuff and tie the things.
They looked pretty, going into the steamer.
Two hours later, they still didn't seem done, so I opened one up to check.
You know that scene in The Fly where Jeff Goldblum accidentally turns a baboon inside out?
Yeah. A bit like that.
Glutenous, purple nightmare would not be putting it too lightly.
The gauntlet has been thrown down. Brace yourself, Tamale World.
Grade - F (for now)
The new recipe of the week, Hayden found Apple Stuffed Chicken breasts and we had all the ingredients so he helped make it. It was pretty easy to make and he liked having to pound the chicken breasts flat. Our sides were garlic bread, cheese tortellini and sauteed peppers, onions and mushrooms. Hayden gave it a 7 out of 10 and Kevin said it was a keeper, me I just took their word for it.
Ricotta Fritters with Wild Plum Butter.
These are like donuts with a creamy middle. Insanely good and really easy to make. If you want the recipe go to Epicurious and search for ricotta fritters with orange. I tweaked it with vanilla and orange extract. Couldn't find my orange flower water but that will be next. Or maybe some elderflower syrup.
2011, Week 1 (Part B):
Here is the actual curry, a day late, as leftovers. Like all curries, it loses some flavor if it is not eaten right away. That said, it was pretty good.
(An added bonus! All the leftover cilantro went into a week's worth of peanut butter, jalapeno and cilantro sandwiches, which sort of creeped out my co-workers, but were delicious anyway.)
Week 18 - Rhubarb Curd Shortbread
This seemed seasonal and unusual. It came highly recommended. It wasn't difficult to make, but did take an hour or two. Basically, it's shortbread topped with a fresh rhubarb curd.
So how'd it taste?
Good, but more lemony than rhubarby. I like it very much, but I don't know that I'd take the time to make it again.
That said, I've had four so far today.
Grade - B+
Even though I didn't make these myself, the cute gal who did make these shared her recipe with me. These are SO easy (and inexpensive) to make. If you want to check out the recipe, it's at my blog post: Chocolate Covered Pretzel Sticks.
You can bet I'm making a whole bunch of these for Christmas this year. (The brown pretzel is coated with melted Andes Candies. Mmmmm mint chocolate.)
I've been really happy with 660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer. This dish, Coconut Cabbage with Chiles and Peas is no exception.
It was cabbagey without being sulphury or bitter. The peas came through really well and the jalapenos I used were not too hot. The broth was delicious. Surprisingly, the very small amount of urad dal I used (about a Tbsp), gave it a really nice nuttiness.
A real winner.
We ate it as a main course, with grocery store naan on the side, but it would probably be best as a fantastic side-dish.
I've only recently started writing notes in my cookbooks. It's a really liberating experience!
27 June, 2011
This recipe came from Chow.com
I had a few personality clashes with the crust - blind baking is still troublesome for me - but it turned out very nicely anyway. I would definitely cut back on the salt next time - the feta and olives add quite enough - and I might go with a whole-wheat crust next time, which would stand up to the robust flavors.
Still, all-in-all, I'm very pleased.
Grade: B+
Hazelnut brownie sundae with caramel gelato and bing cherries with basil.
(Yes, that is mint. The basil is actually in the cherry preserves. It may sound weird, but it just gives it a little je ne sais quoi...)
Day 169, June 20th
If interested...recipe located at: writeclickcooklisten.blogspot.com/2009/06/tampas-taco-bus...
These extremely addictive cookies were brought to a work day pot luck party on plate #0803049.
1 cup butter softened (no substitutes)
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
65 andies mint candies
in a mixing bowl, cream butter and sugars. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in vanilla extract.
Combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Gradually add to creamed mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours or until easy to handle. With floured hands, shape a tablespoonful of dough around 42 candies, forming rectangular cookies.
Place 2 inches apart on greased baking sheets. Bake at 375 degrees F for 10 to 12 minutes or until edges are golden brown. Remove to wire racks to cool.