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Urs celebrations at Hazrat Abdullah Shah Ghazi (RA). Abdullah Shah Ghazi (RA) is the patron Saint of Karachi city and many believe that it is primarily due to him (and his prayers) that Karachi is saved from destruction everytime sea decides to rough it up.
Sandstorms are a pretty common, but much hated, occurance in Pakistan's largest province, Baluchistan. Here, in Bhag Nari, Katchi district, a Sindhi faces severe storm and decides to cover his face. Photographer is duly helped by headlights in the background from a jeep.
Explored on 17th June, 2008. Position No. 49.
Displayed at NG Your Shot website on 18th Jan, 2008.
Pakistani trucks are world renowned for their exquisite designs, many of which are so intricate that they cost its owner over 1.2 million Pak Rs.
But they are also known for quite another reason: over-loading. And they are a walking hazard to all passersby, whether vehicles or humans. Now they have been banned from all new highways across Pakistan except for side highways or those which run across lot of small towns.
For all its hazard-ness, these trucks remain a visual panorama for the onlookers, especially for foreigners for whom this sight is magical and exotic. These trucks display all kinds of detailed drawings, truck-specific poses, shingles, bells, calligraphy and portraits of stars or politicians. Many trucks cry out for their imaginary (or real) love and proclaim never dying unity with them.
Drivers themselves are equally fascinating sometimes. They can sing, use hashish, and drive like mad, whenever circumstances may allow. And most of these drivers are Pathans; no other tribe or ethnic group may drive for so long, under such harsh conditions, and yet be able to smile and sing.
Photograph taken at National Highway near Karachi.
Shehrgarh fort is a sight to behold. Once visited it can never be forgotten. The placement of the fort is the basic reason for someone like me wanting to return and return.
Rannikot is a mystery unto itself. History is not quite sure who built it, its purpose, and who lived here. Apparently, there were no settlements here. No one wanted it to be a residential fort. Some Sindhi scholars attribute the fort to Talpur, but others, mainly foreign scholars, say it was built much earlier than that.
What-ever the history, if you claim that you've seen Sind province, a visit to Ranikot (and the climb up hill to Shehrgarh) becomes a matter of prestige and honour. Don't try this during summers.
I found this beautiful sleeping kid in a Hindu temple in Shikarpur (Sind province). This temple is called Samadhan and is one of the most revered ones in all Pakistan. Hindus from far and near come here to pay homage to their gods and to meet their priests for blessings and charms.
Every month, here at Samadhan top doctors from Hindu community from various parts of Pakistan arrive to cure various ailments ranging from skin to heart disease. I saw 12 doctors, all experts in their field, who were busy with their patients.
Water covers 3/4 of our world but we can't use all that for drinking or farming. Only a part of it may be used. And that's sad news. With world population rocketing - it stands around 6.3 billion now - we have no choice but to use water with care and love, just like we tend to use petrol or other expensive commodity. Without petrol we might survive, without water we won't.
Shot at Jhaki Bander, an ancient port having a fort in the center. Place cordinates not noted; almost 70 Km from Bhambhore, Sind.
Karachi's sea front may not be the most environment friendly items on a traveller's list. But it surely is one of the finest place to enjoy life, to render thoughts in the oxygen; people come here to either remember their good times or forget their bad ones. Some do it by writing poetry, talking to themselves, crying, maybe smiling, others jump around and over such drains. Sea view, as it is called locally, is perhaps one of the last places in the city where rich and poor, Punjabi and Sindhi (and everyone else), policeman and lawyer come together to see the world through their own eyes. Senses here are fizzled out, if only for a moment; a breeze here is an ever-lasting joy.
Christians are a small minority in the country. Most are dark-skinned, ample evidence that they come directly from cross-breeding between various soldiers stationed here and the women of Punjab. Continuous in-breeding caused a specific colour tan on them.
This cemetery, probably the largest of its kind in the country, sits at prime location in Karachi. It is largely neglected but Christians from all over the country visit it when they are here. Due to lack of funds wild grass grows everywhere; land mafia long ago took some part of graveyard and converted into shanty dwellings (background).
Now, stagnant rain water and the immense size of this graveyard are the two main issues which keep funds dry. Newer pumps are being installed to keep the water away. Otherwise, 150 years old graves may soon vanish. For now, this stunning statue stands a reminder of a glorious past and a dictation of what is good architecture and what is not.
Coordinates: 24°51'24"N 67°2'54"E
Displayed on the front page of Lonely Planet: Photobook.
Winner of third prize at Lonely Planet competition (6th May, 2008). Here:
www.flickr.com/groups/lonelyplanetpublications/discuss/72...
Somewhere deep inside Sindh province lies something unique, which at once surprises you as you are not expecting such a sight in the country. Yet it is there. Gleaming under bright Sindh sun, hundreds of uniform salt mounds stand waiting for their turn to go the dinner table.
Special permission is required before one may proceed to shoot the salt mounds.
An additional 100 million of the world's poorest are in danger of lapsing into hunger, malnutrition or starvation, according to the World Food Program, which has in recent months issued emergency appeals for $755 million to offset rising prices of flour, rice, grains and even dairy products. The program estimates 870 million people are already hungry.
"In the short term, we must address all humanitarian crises, which have been impacting the poorest of the poor people in the world," Mr. Ban said prior to yesterday's meeting.
"In the long term, the international community, particularly the leaders of the international community, should sit down together on an urgent basis and address how we can, first of all, improve these economic systems, distribution systems, as well as how we can promote the improved production of agricultural products."
Spiking prices have taken food staples out of the reach of millions, triggering rioting in countries from Indonesia to Peru to Senegal to Haiti.
Kot Diji fort, like other beautiful things in life, impresses you at first sight. It is wonderfully constructed, complete and planned well. It maintains three main entrances, one after another and all three are so designed as to avoid being hit by elephants, a common tactic used in wars. The spikes, made of heavy iron, jutting out at 90 degrees from the wooden plank of the door made it almost impossible for elephants or their riders to bang the big animal on the door-step. Therefore, various other techniques like blowing off the door using latest canon balls from a trajectory would have been used.
Fort is the main attraction of the town 45 minutes drive from Khairpur city, Sind province, Pakistan.
Cholistan is a desert area. Spreading some 16,000 square Kms, it lies towards the eastern-lower end of Punjab province and forms a long, dry border with India. Cholistanis are not exactly Punjabis but have a similar language and various dialects. They are hard working, do some farming; herding is their main business.
This boy was shot near Rohi village where the world famous Derawar fort stands. Previously, entire area covering Cholistan and parts of Southern Punjab were the property of Nawabs. Now much of this land is under Govt. of Pakistan but the fort remains Nawab's personal property.
Local Baluch girl smiles in all her finery and style. Her clothes display a unique design which is clearly Baluch. Every tribe has its own designs and patterns. Even their camels are printed with specific tribal designs to identify them when in group.
A very young boy shows me the red chillies he just plucked from the plants behind. Plucking chillies is a back breaking work for grown up men but for these kids it is an activity which never breaks their back (for the plant length equals that of the child) and earns their families much needed livelihood.
Portrait of a Sindhi boy near National Highway. Camles form the backdrop of the frame.
Third place winner of 'Smiles' award at Lonely Planet competition. Here:
www.flickr.com/groups/lonelyplanetpublications/discuss/72...
Mehndi application is a local tradition in many countries. Here, a school going girl displays her hand on which mehndi had been applied.
Pottery maker shapes his pot and his life in a small, spartan hut, which he calls his work-place. Another specimen, probably complete, looks on.
Deep inside Baluchistan people still live as they have for centuries. Techniques and tools have seldom changed. Here, the scene is being played for a billionth time in the life of Baluchistan, a province which put a final stop to the powers of Alexander the Great during his return through Makran.
Local boy, probably a Sindhi, looks on as a traveler displays some ironic statement against that plastered on the wall.
Similar confusion and double talk happens to be the hallmark of this country in particular and of our world in general. We do what we don't say, and we say what we will never do - or accept.
Shot at Shah Yaqiq Mazar in Sindh. This place is popular for its various medical treatments which are on offer; medicine is roohani and therefore the only evidence of any medical 'operation' which happens here is through what people tell you. Cancer operations are very popular and lot of legends and stories may be heard here regarding the success rate.
Although all this is fair, I must mention that unfortunately lot of Pakistanis have taken the concept of Mazars too wide & off the mark. For instance, Islam forbids women from coming to the graves or to the graveyard, according to the Islamic tradition (as related in the sayings of Holy Prophet Muhammad salahu alihi wasalam). Still, any visitor to a Muslim tomb will find hoardes of Muslim women, wailing, sitting, sleeping, moving around, or vigorously shaking themselves or their heads as if in deep trance; in particular disturbing situations, one might find women from various goths (villages) being chained in front of a larger, men-oriented audience.
One of the most magnificent species from the sea and from the land, Marine turtles defy common logic and much else to live their long, adventurous, often hazardous lives on oceans and on selected beaches of the world. They are a lovely creature full of enthusiasm for life and for their beautiful kids.
Their story begins much before they are born. Their mothers, totally aware of issues related to protection of species, lay many eggs. Many eventually won't turn out turtles at all. Some will be eaten by stray dogs, or crows or eagles. Others would be gulped down by various sea species. The left behind turtles would eventually grow up to become the mothers and fathers of this wonderland. They would, in their lifetime, travel thousands of kilometers to feed and to nest.
Pakistan's Sand spit beach (also called Turtle beach) is one of the rare nesting grounds for two species of Marine turtles, the Olive Ridley Turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea) and the Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas).
Malangs, found at most of Tombs and Shrines of Pakistan, typically adorn their fingers with various rings. Some of them wear original stone rings while others have to contend with fakes and plastics. And invariably all these rings are made with silver. I have never seen a gold one on them.
'Malang' is an Urdu term meaning a person who shuns the world and lives his own life, free from work or basic human social activities like weddings, funerals, etc. Some of these malangs are known drug traffickers and most of them use drugs on themselves. Only few are clean and tidy.
Coordinates: 24°20'46"N 68°1'49"E
White Owl (Barn Owl) was being sold in the city of Pak Pattan Sharif, Punjab, Pakistan for Rs.3000. This beautiful specie is in danger of becoming extinct if nothing is done of this illegal trade.
Pakistani boy reaches out for his notes at D.J Science college, Karachi, Pakistan, amidst daily breakdowns of electric supply from privatized KESC. People of Karachi have expressed deep anger and frustration over this corrupt deal made by former PM. Shaukat Aziz, now comfortably in London mending his mansion and his new business. His erstwhile boss, Gen. Musharraf, is looking for ways to play golf and avoid Zardari on TV as people of Karachi curse them all.
Originally D.J. Sindh Arts College. Bulchand Dayaram and Daulatram Jethamal were the persons behind the effort to get the college started. Architect J. Strachan prepared the original drawings. Foundation stone was laid by Lord Dufferin, the viceroy of India, on Nov 14, 1887.
Coordinates: 24°51'12"N 67°0'52"E
Bhit Shah is one of the best places in the country to hear to a very old, charming, Sufi music. It is played from Thursday night till Friday morning. And its every week.
URS (death anniversary of the Saint) is particularly striking for its content.
Coordinates: 25°48'23"N 68°29'27"E
Like it life on this planet, a black cobra spirals and un-spirals and watches with discontent the men and women of this world. It has been captured from the arid lands of Sindh and now makes his home here on a piece of English newspaper and his round, closed box. Beneath him, an epic story of Sindh is textured in a multi-coloured, multi-layered ralli, a classy Sindhi chador. Snake and Ralli may have evolved differently but here, under the watchful eye of their owner, both play it safe.
Shot at Shah Yaqiq town, Sindh Province, Pakistan.
World is dangerously close to a serious collapse ecologically. That's until we get a U turn and save it for ourselves and for our future generations.
It is very clear from the observations that human alone cannot survive this planet. We must, therefore, work in tandem with other species to make this world more acceptable to all. Unfortunately, we've done its opposite. We have destroyed nature by chopping trees, trampling flowers, shooting animals and caging birds. And we are not yet over.
Human today has no choice but to accept this reality and stop the murder of nature and its dimensions.
Photograph shot at Rajpar village, Khairpur district, Pakistan.
A flame lights up at Shah Abdul Lateef Bithai's mazar (shrine) at Bhit Shah, Pakistan. Drinkers of bhang and chars gather here along with huge number of devotees for a three day festival every year called Urs (death anniversary of a Saint).
Mirs were the rulers of Sind with a penchant for good living. They built lot of fine structures across much of Sind where they ruled before British finally toppled them. Talpurs, as is their surname, were patrons of arts and crafts in the region and they spent lot of their fortune in creating eye-popping art-works some of which was displayed year ago at Mohatta Palace Museum, Karachi.
This mahal, or palace, is closed to public. A warden appointed by Mr. Talpur (from the family of rulers of Sind) keeps a watch on this precious structure. Photography and movie making is strictly prohibited here. We were given special permission to document this classic architecture and its interior. The painting above on the roof and on the walls are all hand painted.
If anyone has further details on this structure, kindly email me.
An 8000 Ton ship is anchored at Gadani for scrapping. It takes nearly 3 months to break this size ship completely into scrap material, which is then sold in open market.
Coordinates: 25°4'19"N 66°42'23"E
Sher Shah Suri was a prodigious builder. Among many structures which he constructed during his tenure, Rohtas Fort and the nearby Grand Trunk Road are the best known. Whereas Rohtas Fort is a formidable structure built over hillocks and looking out at what is left of Jhelum river, Grand Trunk Road runs from Calcutta to Kabul. It is one of the best known highways of the ancient times and still lot of travellers wish to travel by it. G.T Road passes some 8 KM from the Rohtas fort.
Despite its formidable reputation, it is unclear whether this fort ever served any useful purpose to its owners. It must have had stationed army by later Mughuls but they too rarely ever used it. Today, Rohtas is the pride of Pakistan and one of the eight World Heritage Sites of UNESCO.
Coordinates: 32°58'11"N 73°34'20"E
Local girl gestures to someone not in the frame among the mountains of Shah Noorani (RA), a popular destination among Baluch and Karachi wallas.
Noorani is 112 Kms from Karachi and may be reached via a link road which leads from Hub Chowky towards the right turn. An interesting historical graveyard arrives during the trip to Noorani and is called Hasan Pir graveyard.
Nani ka Mandir (popularly known as Hinglaj Temple) detail among the stunning beauty of Hingol National Park, Baluchistan province, Pakistan.
Hinglaj Mata Temple, Located 65.25 E, 25.31 N, a holy place for Hindus, Specially Brahamkshatriya બ્રહ્મક્ષત્રીય (Khatri ખત્રી), Bhanushali ભાનુશાળી (Bhansari, Bhansali).
Situated near a mud volcano which is a sight of geological interest.
One of the chief inscriptions at Aabi gate of Rohtas. This gate is so named because it was here that the king and his party would disembark from River Jhelum. Now, the river has shifted leaving its mark from where the low stream still flows. The first line in Arabic means, 'In the name of Allah the Most Beneficial, Most Merciful'.
Thieves and time has erased much of the beauty of this fort including this gate. People have stolen even the verses of the Quran carved into hard stone.
This fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is presently undergoing extensive restoration. It spreads some 12 Km and sits at Jhelum near G.T Road. Constructed by Sher Shah Suri but never actually used.
Coordinates: 32°58'11"N 73°34'20"E
Window to the world: A window, now altered to some extent, retains its rights and its unique, pre-partition shape right into the 21st century. Note the typical window design where it slopes towards the end on both sides. You will find such window glass design in the buildings constructed b/w 1920 and 1940.
Photographed at Heerabad area, Hyderabad.
Gora Qabristan, a Christian cemetery which sits right in the center of ideas and commerce of Karachi, is almost always fully loaded with water whenever rain falls. Somehow the rain water makes this photograph look beautiful. Unfortunately, that is only the case with the beauty of the image. In reality though such rain water collecting inside this beautifully laid out graveyard is a hell for many of its old and wise inhabitants. It is our national heritage as well as a sacred place for Christians who call Pakistan home. We need to earnestly preserve many of these historical graves.
Derawar Fort is a history unto itself. It has met many trials and tribulations, it has seen wars and peace times; and it has witnessed fall and rise of empires. Today, it is seeing its own fall along with the fall of the country it sits in. Maybe I am wrong but the fort tells its very own story. A story which is marked in its stones, in its doorways, in its varied patterns, and in its underground passages (above).
Some places force you to sit and wait. Others get the best out from you. Chowkandi does both to a photographer. It is an Islamic site where Muslim rulers and their subjects used to bury their dead. More precious the body, more elaborate its stones and more intricate its carvings.
This wonderful graveyard, one of 51 Chowkandi sites spread in Sindh and Baluchistan provinces, is a classic example of itself. You will be mesmerized by the lengths at which man can and decorate their dead. The workmanship is superb. And details are just too much for a newcomer.
Unfortunately, some of the precious stones have been stolen from the site and smuggled abroad. One may also find these carved bricks / stones in the drawing rooms of various politicians and officers. Such are the ways of the living. They steal the stones from the dead!
As assistant to a fisherman fumbles with his home-made lamp at arid-land mangrove forest near Karachi, Pakistan.
Fishermen and their assistants are facing tremendous pressures on land and on sea as fish sources are depleting faster due to foreign trawlers taking the best catch away to Japan and EU markets. Therefore, they have to supplement their income by taking tourists for picnic. Thanks to the muddy conditions in the mangroves many visitors stick to their boats and rarely venture into the forest. In that way the forests are protected.
Unfortunately, mafia is out there cutting forests at an alarming rate despite complete ban on such activities. Another problem: Indus river is getting slower and slower thanks to fast growing population up-country and building of un-necessarily large dams in Punjab province.
For now, these fishermen will continue finding their bread even in darkness.
Raja Islam makes himself comfortable in front of a wooden door and walls painted with MQM, large letters denoting one of the most popular - but violent - political parties in the country.
I made Raja Islam stand in front of this logo of MQM because it appeared strange to have this name here. Dhoro Naro is a small town in Sind and apparently it's away from these political parties. But writing on the walls speak of a different future.
Kot Diji spreads some 1/2 Km across horizon on a raised platform from where the view of the old city and beyond is great and specific. Made from burnt bricks and lot of effort and maybe blood, Kot Diji is a masterpiece of the land and a tutorial on how to build forts. It has three main gates, all elephant stoppers having sharp edged iron nails poking out. Not only that, the gates are so constructed that the movement has to be radically stopped due to sharp edges and curves leading to the entrance. Oil, rocks, targeted arrows, and lot of angry soldiers would have been ready at every bent, at every entrance, and underneath the floor.
A visit to Sind province won't be complete if one tends to leave this fort out. Same is the case with other magnificient structures including Ranikot near Sann town and Moen Jo Daro civilization near Larkana.
Coordinates: 27°20'44"N 68°42'24"E
Thatta’s Jamia Masjid popularly known as Shah Jehan Masjid is a masterpiece. It was built on the orders of Shah Jehan, who gifted it to the people of Thatta. Its construction started in 1644 and was completed in 1647, while the floor was built in 1657. At that time the area’s governor was Mir Abdullah. Read on:
www.dawn.com/weekly/review/archive/050428/review6.htm
Coordinates: 24°44'49"N 67°55'42"E
Eid-ul-Fitr, variously called as choti Eid (small Eid in Urdu) or Ramazan Eid (as it marks the end of Holy month of Ramazan Shareef), is one festival which is eagerly awaited by all Muslims across the world.
Ramazan is the month of fasting where eating is forbidden from Dawn to Dusk. Therefore, Eid marks the end of month-long fasting and one may eat as he may wish, and whenever he wishes so.
This photograph: A girl is fully decked up for the auspicious occasion in Karachi, Pakistan.
Bhambore (Urdu: بھنبور) are the ruins of an ancient port city of Debal from 7th century located at the base of river Indus. The ruins are located approximately 60km between Dhabejee and Gharo on the N-5 National Highway. It's population was mainly Hindu with minority Buddhist. It is largely known for the ruins of a castle build by Muhammad Bin Qasim and on a different note a true love story Sassi Punnun.
Bhambore signifies the trading links between Arab and South Asian nations of its times. The reason for the new city of Bhambore being came into being was because few pirates had kidnapped a ship(more importantly the people on that ship). A plea was filed with the Arab rulers in Baghdad(a major economic and military power then) in the region to rescue them. When diplomacy failed to release those people, an expedition was sent to the area under command of Muhammad Bin Qasim. With superior military might and planing he was able to make an amphibious landing and established his presence here. One of the reasons cited for the success of this expedition is the unhappiness of the Buddhist population and it is believed they helped the coming invaders.
Bhambore was later abandoned due to change in course of the river. Evidence of earthquake and regional invaders is also cited for the movement of the population away from the area and crumbling of the castle. The river delta is now a creek, as river changed its course.
A man watches for the approaching storm as tree sheds its leaves and shakes off badly.
Shot at Bhag Nari, Baluchistan, Pakistan.
Colours and sand marks Thar desert and this small, colourful village called Naukot (New Fort), as the fort which stands nearby is called. Fort is new but the culture it shadows is as old as human himself.
In drabness of the sand and the sharpness of the sunshine, women of Thar have produced colours which belly their location and mark their brilliance.
Above: Rilli, hand women by women of Thar desert, is a special gift for all and sundry.
This beautifully preserved colonial building may be found at Muhammad Ali Jinnah road, Karachi. The brilliant use of stone work along with placement of windows and the main jharoka is just fantastic.
We, the citizens of Karachi, hope that such beautiful historical structures are preserved for generations to come. We also sincerely hope that builder mafia understands the importance of heritage of the land, whether Hindu, Muslim or British.
One of my earliest portraits. This shot was made in Manshera.
It was in May, 2003, when I and my friend, Adeel, went to Northern Areas of Pakistan to roam about without much plan and low budget. Yet, it was a wonderful experience for both of us and the learning curve was steep yet exquisite.
This boy was coming down this sloppy road when I stopped him to make this shot.