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The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.
I changed my reservoir and solenoid set up last night to get a more constant drop from the valve. Tried it out last night and got nowhere as my liquid was too thick. Today I've been on a liquid preparation mission. Lots of slow filtering done giving me plenty of liquid to mess with. Seems like I am getting there with it as this liquid is much clearer than previous attempts. Thinner too.
Never managed to get a triple today of any sort. Looks like I am learning from the begining again with this new setup.
I got this 2 drop collision into xanthan gum mix, some blue ink and a little kitchen cleaner.
Prototype USB Interface for SHARP PC-14xx-Serie
You will find more infos about this project on my blog:
The Arduino Duemilanove connected up to an RGB LED (red-green-blue light-emitting diode) inside a ping-pong ball. There's a 5mm hole in the ping-pong ball, and the LED illuminates it from the inside. The ball is just translucent enough to make a soft glow. The sketch running on the Arduino is a version of this code.
Arduino and Processing. Very happy how this turned out.
"Astabiler Multivibrator" ist eine Schaltung, die ich jetzt gelernt habe. Auf dem Steckbord aufgebaut, mit dem Arduino gemessen und mit Processing visualisiert. Der Anfang von einem Oszilloskop.
Spent a lot of time messing around with my code for the controller. I've added the ability to repeat sequence if I am happy with the splash, and a fine adjustment for each valve open/close time. Along with some other menu options.
This is one of the first I hit once I got the rough setting for this shape.
3 drops into a bowl of water/xanthan gum mix with a few drops of Dettol Power and Pure multi purpose kitchen and green food dye. Water/xanthan gum with red dye in the drop.
Settings:
Exposure - 1/200sec
F-stop - f/16
ISO speed - 200
Speedlite - 1/64
Height 21"
Camera to drop 50cm
Using Digispark ATTINY85 USB board, programmed Zoom Mute and Video toggle keystrokes to the buttons (guitar pedal switches).
I have just started getting into programming on the Ardunio/Atmel microcontroller platform and one of the projects I’d like to build involves using a 128x64 monochrome LCD module.
Enter the Deal Extreme “5V 3.2" LCD12864 Screen Module with Backlit (Yellow & Green Screen/English Word Stock)” SKU 121820. The description yellow/green was wrong but I guess that because the photos did not match on the page. I thought they were cheap and worth taking a chance on so I ordered two. I was reasonably sure I could make them work in one form or another.
I spent several hours one night trying to figure out what controller the board uses (ST7920), what pins to connect where and which libraries to use. I got nowhere. I retried last night and had success. The code examples I found didn’t compile with IDE 1.0 so rather than redo the code for something that might not be what I need to make it work I downloaded IDE 0023. Once I had the demo working I understood what I needed to do to make the u8glib (Universal Graphics Library for 8 Bit Embedded Systems) work.
U8glib link code.google.com/p/u8glib/
My pin config:
LCD->ArdunioUsed as
Gnd Gnd Ground
VCC 5V Power
RS Pin 8 Chip Select (CS)
R/W Pin 9 Serial Input (MOSI)
E Pin 3 Serial Clock (SCK)
PSB Gnd Pull low to enable SPI mode
*And don’t forget about the contrast and black light pins.
Code to Make it Work
#include "U8glib.h"
U8GLIB_ST7920_128X64 u8g(3, 9, 8, U8G_PIN_NONE);
// SPI Com: SCK = en = 3, MOSI = rw = 9, CS = di = 8
Prototype of a wireless soil temperature sensor using a single-bord microcontroller and an LCD display.
entire 8-bit microcontroller with 2k PROM, and 128 bytes of RAM. It's maximum clock speed was 11MHz, and it had 2 I/O ports and a total of 27 I/O lines. It was a great processor in it's day
transferred stack-o-saurus over to a PCB version - what a guddle making this thing was...
I never was any good with a soldering iron but it does work - it's a thing for automating focus-stacks
top and bottom views shown below
An upcoming droplet was shot by an air rifle bullet while another drops comes down.
More drops & setup on my website:
This was one of the first splashes I got running a test using a second flash I borrowed from a friend along with my own. Unfortunately the lowest setting I can get on the second flash is 1/16 so I have picked up some motion blur around the edges from that. I should have taken time in setting the flash area properly and a top up of liquid in the bowl before starting would have been a good idea. Shame that as I quite like this splash.
2 drop collision into water with a few drops of rinse aid. The reservoir has a xanthan gum/water mix with a few drops of laundry liquid. Colours come from a few drops of red ink in the reservoir and bowl. I am also using a light blue gel one of the flashes behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass which is giving off the purple colour in the splash.
Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.
Settings:
Shutter: 1/200
ISO: 100
Aperture: f/16
Speedlite: 1/16
---------------------------------
H21, D1-80, P1-60, D2-80, CD-220
We bought a few of these Infineon XMC 2Go development boards.
It's so cute and tiny, I just had to get one. They're dirt-cheap anyway.
The 10 cent euro coin is for scale comparison.
Building a bulbdial clock. Read more about this project here.
Interesting part: this photo demonstrate here that...
R+G+B = white.
White - Red = Cyan
White - Green = Magenta
White - Blue = Yellow
While recently experimenting with Adruino microcontrollers I was struck by how easily and accurately I was able to program pretty much any motion. I thought it would be fun to try and reinvent a favourite childhood toy, the spirograph - this time in 3D and painted with light.
Using 2 LEDs, 2 motors, a rotating arm, a bicycle wheel and a lot of head scratching it finally all came together in this 15s exposure. I was blown away by the ethereal glow it produced as it perfectly illuminated me, proudly watching over my new toy.
The control board looks imminently hackable. It has a 78L05 regulator, PIC12F629 microcontroller, buzzer, pushbutton, and three darlington pairs to control the LED strips.
One of my Arduino pro micro boards had it's USB header fall off and take the pads with it, so I decided to open it up and have a peek at the chip.
Unfortunately this chip is firmly attached to the metal plate from the package and it will not let go, so I was unable to level the chip enough to do a composite with my 10X lens. I was stuck using the 4X one,
I've been rather stupid and didn't realize I could tell my camera to export raw images rather than jpgs, which would probably help out a bit with the stitching process. This is the first chip done using raw files only
Most of the stuff that looks like dust on the chip is actually leftover chunks of the package and cannot be removed easily.
Camera: SONY A6000
Panorama Y Axis: 4 Images
Panorama X Axis: 7 Images
ISO: 100
Shutter Speed: 0.8"
Light Source: Internal Lamp
DIC: Yes
Microscope Objective: 5X
Stitching Software: Autopano Giga
Other Software: Photoshop for colour balancing
Image Type: PNG
Another bubble splash.
2 drops into water with a couple of additives. Colours are from red ink in the water bowl and the same in the drop reservoir. There is also a blue gel on the flash which gives the purple colour to the splash.
Settings:
Exposure - 1/200sec
F-stop - f/16
ISO speed - 100
Speedlite - 1/32
--------------------------------------------
H-21, D1-80, P1-50, D2-80, CD-188
Homemade using an Addressable RGB LED Light Strip and Microcontroller Board
See my YouTube video showing all of my current Light Painting Tools and how they work.
www.youtube.com/user/michaelrross1
You can find get to the detailed tutorial information and videos to make this tool yourself on my personal website under the new Tutorial Blog at:
2 drop collision into a water/xanthan gum mix. Colours come from a few drops of ink into both the wine glass and the drop reservoir. I am also using a light blue gel on the flash which is behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass.
Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.
Settings:
Shutter: 1/200
ISO: 200
Aperture: f/16
Speedlite: 1/16
Timings: D1-50, P1-120, D2-10, P2-8, D3-12, CD-200
Drop of water just before it hits the sheet of plastic.
Test with the Arduino Duemilanove microcontroller to control delay.
Now it's much easier to control the delay as i can program it from my PC.
here is a quick picture of the setup : http://www.flickr.com/photos/34463171@N04/3601835144/
Now i'm waiting for a solenoid valve for the setup so i can control the drops too and start it all with a push of a button.
USB Interface for SHARP PC-140x Series (sketch)
You will find more infos about this project on my blog:
Developed at SRI International, the company has spun out and closed their first round of funding, led by Future Ventures. The company can compress common AI models by 10x without a noticeable change in accuracy, enabling deployment on the inexpensive microcontrollers, DSPs and other processor cores typically found in edge devices. This allow intelligence to migrate to the edge for local processing (e.g., face-detection algorithms running locally within security cameras or appliances, or Siri-like voice interfaces working instantly even when network connectivity is missing).
Couple some local intelligence to each sensor and the internet of things is becoming the sensory cortex of the planet, with countless data-collecting-devices. All of this 'big data' would be a big headache but for machine learning to find patterns to make it actionable, and edge computing to shift the processing to the periphery and avoid network overload. In short, the edge needs AI, and AI needs the edge. Latent AI integrates both with a portfolio of IoT edge compute optimizers and accelerators that bring an order of magnitude improvement to existing infrastructure. This is essential, as the majority of new software today is trained as a neural net, and most compute cycles will shift to the edge.
From the NVIDIA CEO: “We’ll soon see the power of computing increase way more than any other period. There will be trillions of products with tiny neural networks inside.”
The core technologies of Latent AI come from SRI International, where I have been an advisory board member for over a decade and seen technologies like Siri develop and then spin out of SRI.
Here is today’s announcement from the company.
And the company site: LatentAI.com
I took this photo of CEO and co-founder Jags Kandasamy presenting Latent AI to the IoT Consortium.
An old chip that i opened to see what's inside.
It's an Intel 8742, a 8-bit microcontroller that includes a CPU running at 12 MHz, 128 bytes of RAM, 2048 byte of EPROM, and I/O in the same chip.
See the official doc (pdf) on the intel's website, or see a shot of the whole thing.
Thank you to kingey1971 for the identification !
Explored. July 23rd, 2013 #169
2 drop collision into a water/xanthan gum mix. Colours come from a few drops of red ink in the reservoir liquid and a few of blue in the glass. I am also using a light blue gel on the flash which is behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass.
Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.
Settings:
Shutter: 1/200
ISO: 200
Aperture: f/16
Speedlite: 1/16
Timings: D1-30, P1-110, D2-12, CD-200
Using Digispark ATTINY85 USB board, programmed Zoom Mute and Video toggle keystrokes to the buttons (guitar pedal switches).
“Claremont Road” has five Arduino UNO microcontrollers which control train movements, along with PWM (servo adapted) points/turnouts, and signals according to pre-written programs or “sketches”. This is a completely different concept from DCC.
The master co-ordinating UNO gets feedback from the track through 14 enbedded infra-red proximity detectors,
Slaves 1-3 are UNO “train drivers”,
Slave 4 handles the display and lights. The orange display shows the current mode and commands being passed between the UNOs via a short-wire protocol known as I2C.
The Arduino microcontroller board wired up to the SID chip out of a Commodore 64. This circuit really uses up too many of the Arduino's I/O pins, and I think a better way would be to use a couple of 74HC595 shift registers and then generate the CS pulse in hardware.
Visitors to our family blog can launch a car from our closet for our toddler to play with. I built a simple gravity-powered car launcher that is controlled by the web site. Clicking "Launch Car Now!" on the web site results in a sound clip from the movie "Cars" playing in our living room, followed by a car shooting out from under the coat closet door. The website uses a bit of PHP to send an email to my wife's computer, which happens to sit in the living room next to the coat closet. I created a filter in Apple Mail to run an AppleScript when a correctly coded email comes through. The AppleScript pauses iTunes and raises the system volume of the computer before activating a small applet I wrote in the Processing language. The Processing applet plays a bit of Lightning McQueen (main character in "Cars") psyching himself up before a big race. The applet then sends an "l" to the serial port, where the car launcher's Basic Stamp II microcontroller is patiently waiting. The BSII opens the sliding garage door on the launcher exactly one bay. There are five bays, for five cars. I set up little tabs to interrupt an infrared beam as the edge of each opening is reached. Once a given bay is open, gravity pulls the toy car out and down the ramp. Momentum carries it under the closed closet door and across the floor to the excited toddler. After receiving each launch command (each clicked "Launch Car Now! from the web site), the launcher will release one car and then wait for another command, progressing until the door is completely open and all cars have been released. The launcher door will then close and wait to be reloaded. The PHP on the web server makes sure the "Launch Car Now!" link is only available during usual playtime hours and also limits the number of cars launched to five per day. The table on which the launcher is sitting was another of my weekend projects, a nice roomy table for the little guy's wooden train set.
I don't think the PIC would appreciate the full 9V!
However, there is an onboard LDO so it should be OK!
Not a lot of supply decoupling though (yet!) ...
The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.
Simple circuit to connect a 5V relay to one of the digital output pins of the Arduino. I drew this after a few threads showed up on the Arduino forums, asking about relays. I hope this drawing make things a little clearer for the novices. Best viewed in original size ("Actions>View all sizes" button at lower left).
I've shown a few options for the transistor and diode, but the choice is not critical and almost any NPN bipolar transistor will do. For larger loads (such as big solenoids or motors), you'll need a power transistor that can handle the larger current, and you'll need to reduce R1 to maybe as low as 220 Ohms.
When wiring up, be sure to check the data sheet for the transistor to find the pin connections (e, b, c). The diode will be marked with a band or stripe at the cathode (k) end.