These photos are from Manaslu and Tsum in Nepal, where I went trekking over Easter. The area is has been devastated by the earthquake in Nepal. They are in the remote part of the Gorkha region, close to the epicentre of the main earthquake.

Valerie Pitkethly, who runs the treks and has been working in Nepal for 30 years, runs Light Education Development, a charity which supplies and distributes solar lights, together with educational and medical supplies to the remote communities in Nepal and Peru. You'll see light distribution and repair in action in the photos.

If you can, please donate to help Val provide relief support and supplies in Nepal.

DSC08720

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

MAH02203

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02222

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02170

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02247

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02244

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02228

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02201

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02268

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02209

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02164

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02216

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02197

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02217

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02183

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02264

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02214

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02210

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kusum Kanguru, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Ombigaichan - Mingbo - Hongku Shar - Thamserku - Kangtega - Makalu (मकालु ). Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati and Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights. Still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Pacchermo and Tengmoche.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02246

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02176

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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After n nights under canvas with al fresco loo trips, an en suite felt like the height of luxury.

Monday 2 May 2016

Yak kharka II (4602m) - Viewpoint (4653m) - Yak kharka II (4602m) - Prayer scarf cairn (4520m) - Langmuche view (4380m) - Thame Teng (3900m) - Thame (3800m)

Another day filled with epic views from high on the hillsides above the Langmuche and Bhote Koshi valleys.

Leaving the tents to dry out, we started with a stroll further up the banks of the river, to a view of the mountains and glaciers of the Langmuche Ri - Tengi Ragi Tau ridge (I think). My photos don’t do them justice.

Small birds and purple flowers on the way back, and a stop at the yak herder’s farm to check his LED solar light and to have a cup of tea. A harsh place to live, but beautiful today under clear blue skies.

Leaving the yak kharka, we descended along the eastern hand side of the river, traversing to come out high above the Bhote Koshi valley. More amazing views, and a stop to leave our thanks and prayer scarves at a cairn, and a last lingering look at Cho Oyu (चोयु, ཇོ་བོ་དབུ་ཡ).

Then on some more, crossing the plateau and keeping our height (more or less), to come out high above the Langmuche Khola - What A View: the valley far below, snow topped ridges and 6000m peaks on the other side.

Then sharply down, the steepest, sandiest section of trail of the trip. Slip-free, fortunately, all the way down the the bridge where the Langmuche Khola flows into the Bhote Koshi. Cloud had gathered on our descent, and the path back towards Thame was overcast.

In Thame Teng we paid a return visit to Pasang Nuru, watching him work on his paintings while we tucked into lunch.

Then back to Thame, and the lovely Valley View Lodge. Val did us proud - en suite rooms in the new block!!!

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

MAH02669

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02265

Kongde Ri and ridge on the left. On the right, Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02193

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02162

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02188

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02204

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02174

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02191

Ama Dablam and Makalu on the left

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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The sweep of mountains goes from Ama Dablam to Kangtega via Makalu, Ombigaichan, Mingbo La and pointy Malanphulan.

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

DSC02205

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Wednesday 09 July 2014 - Day 10 - Jancapampa (3,673m / 12,050ft) - Quebrada Jancapampa (3,535m / 11,600ft) - Wild camp below Yanacon Pass (4,189m / 13,743ft)

Another fab day.

Awake early, and all packed by the time bed tea was delivered on schedule at 7am by Luis and Amner, along with the news that they'd had a fine time at last night's fiesta. I regretted not going.

Breakfast in the big tent, together with the nurse and the young boy. Anne and Val held an impromptu health clinic outside, tending an old lady with infected cuts on her hands, and working out some basic physio exercises for the boy.

At 8.20am-ish we set off downhill past scattered farms with girls feeding pigs and men leading out cattle, and into the Quebrada Jancapampa proper. High above the glaciers remained shrouded in cloud. A fine walk along the flat, working around the streams and boggy bits, and meeting a couple and a solo man who'd come down from their farms in search of LED solar lights - duly distributed.

We climbed out of the valley through woodland - hard work, but satisfying when we emerged by a babbling brook for a drink and sweets in the sunshine.

A slow and steady walk - sometimes flat, sometimes steep, sometimes in the open, sometimes in sparse woodland, at other times scrambling up dry waterfall gullies - brought us to a wide open upland valley where the donkeys were being unloaded. The farmers at Jancapampa had rented us some more donkeys and a medical horse. En route, wild flowers galore, and a hummingbird sighting.

Anne, Mike and I mucked in to pitch our still damp tents on neatly grazed grass sprinkled with flowers and took photos of the super scenic setting while lunch was prepared - a feast of veg noodle soup, toasted cheese and tomato sandwiches with pimento stuffed olives, gherkins, tuna and guacamole adornment options. Lots of tea.

Revitalised, Christine, Anne and I put our boots back on and clambered over rock slabs above the camp to explore - fabulous views of the ridge coming down from the pass and the valley wed' walked up, a hidden loch and the rare red shongo shongo plant. A lovely stroll back to camp for a wash (with Aguaaaaar paraaaaa lavarrrrrrrr, naturally) and a read - The Guardian Book of Mountains, appropriately.

The rest of the afternoon was whiled away in our now familiar routine - tea, diary, Scrabble/Yahtzee/Ten Thousand. All very sociable, but easily so.

Another gem of an evening meal - Bean soup with egg drop and spring onion garnish, BBQ chicken and chips (BBQ-sauced champignons for me), broccoli and carrots. All rounded off with panettone and custard. The camp fire kept us warm as the chickens roasted and we star gazed.... the daytime cloud cover breaking up to reveal a sparkling night sky. A cold night ahead. Feeling truly away from it all for the first time.

Read more about my Cordillera Blanca trek with Val Pitkethly.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Friday 18 July 2014 - Day 19 - Quebrada Pastoruri campsite (4,597m / 15,082ft) - Laguna Tuco (4,880m / 16,010ft) - Quebrada Pastoruri campsite (4,597m / 15,082ft) - Huaraz (3,052m / 10,013ft)

Not a great night's sleep - so I was up and out in the frosty morning soon after Val. Last night's teeth cleaning water was frozen in my camp mug. I crunched across the frost cover to the dining tent, early but proper coffee was already brewing and my favourite breakfast combo awaited: granola followed b a Melky-special fried egg.

I thought I'd overdone breakfast seeing as the morning activity plan was to walk back up the Quebrada Pastoruri to the farm to check on the LED supplied solar light Val had given the farmer there last year. I should have known better... Mike and Dave opted for R&R in camp, and Christine and I set off at with Val, Melky and Amner at their 'usual' pace, aka fast. As we approached the farm, a large dog appeared to check us out, closely followed by a jolly white dancing dog we christened Mr Crufts. As Val chattered with the farmer, a fat chicken, a large cat and two cute puppies kept court in the farm yard. The doors of the stone store hut were made from dried Puya Raimondii, and the solar light was recharging on the thatched roof, alongside an old pair of metal binoculars.

Having heard that the lakes we'd passed yesterday were empty of fish, Melky turned back to camp leaving the four of us to continue up the main valley.... always one more ridge or rock to reach.... worth it though when we reached Laguna Tuco. Beautiful colours in the surrounding landscape, a condor and a pair of vicuña. The clouds were closing in and a cold wind had sprung up so after photos and a restorative Cañonazo chocolate bar shared by Christine, we headed back down the valley.

Back at the campsite we warmed up with hot chocolate made with fresh milk from the farming couple who'd collected solar lights yesterday, followed by a lunch of pitta pockets filled with guacamole, cucumber and tomato.

Our minibus arrived early, at 12.15pm ish, so it was a speedy pack up of bags, tents and camp kit - all done in 15 minutes or so. We drove through the Quebrada Pumapampa / Pachacoto and out of the Parque Nacional Huascarán, with just a couple of stops - at the petroglyphs and to check on more LED lights distributed last year. Then the high road back to Huaraz.

Another shower in room 14, and the final set of clean(ish) clothes (the ones I'd travelled out in) and I was ready for our trip into town - Mike to collect laundry from Lavandería Liz, Christine to deposit some, and various pills from the Medifarma including Albendazole Giardia worm-blitzing pills for me. Cafe Andino was our ultimate objective, where we met up with Dave and sat out on the terrace indulging in coffee and apple pie.

Next up: beer and nibbles for this evening's farewell gathering back on the Hotel Columba's veranda. Christina and I were in charge. Sierra Andina proved impossible to come by - it's fiesta time - so we settled for Cristal.

A lovely early evening drink, snack and chat with Amner, Antonia and Melky, then a slightly tipsy walk to El Rinconcito Minero for more beers and another great meal - Christine and I sharing a veg chaufa and chips.

Back at the hotel, I managed to get everything back into my rucksack, just about. It required a fair amount of brute force!

Stupidly succumbed to the TV again, flicking through the channels until almost 11pm and pick up more news about the increased Israeli shelling of Gaza and the shooting down of Malaysia Airlines MH17 over the Ukraine.

Read more about my Cordillera Blanca trek with Val Pitkethly.

DSC06982

Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Friday 18 July 2014 - Day 19 - Quebrada Pastoruri campsite (4,597m / 15,082ft) - Laguna Tuco (4,880m / 16,010ft) - Quebrada Pastoruri campsite (4,597m / 15,082ft) - Huaraz (3,052m / 10,013ft)

Not a great night's sleep - so I was up and out in the frosty morning soon after Val. Last night's teeth cleaning water was frozen in my camp mug. I crunched across the frost cover to the dining tent, early but proper coffee was already brewing and my favourite breakfast combo awaited: granola followed b a Melky-special fried egg.

I thought I'd overdone breakfast seeing as the morning activity plan was to walk back up the Quebrada Pastoruri to the farm to check on the LED supplied solar light Val had given the farmer there last year. I should have known better... Mike and Dave opted for R&R in camp, and Christine and I set off at with Val, Melky and Amner at their 'usual' pace, aka fast. As we approached the farm, a large dog appeared to check us out, closely followed by a jolly white dancing dog we christened Mr Crufts. As Val chattered with the farmer, a fat chicken, a large cat and two cute puppies kept court in the farm yard. The doors of the stone store hut were made from dried Puya Raimondii, and the solar light was recharging on the thatched roof, alongside an old pair of metal binoculars.

Having heard that the lakes we'd passed yesterday were empty of fish, Melky turned back to camp leaving the four of us to continue up the main valley.... always one more ridge or rock to reach.... worth it though when we reached Laguna Tuco. Beautiful colours in the surrounding landscape, a condor and a pair of vicuña. The clouds were closing in and a cold wind had sprung up so after photos and a restorative Cañonazo chocolate bar shared by Christine, we headed back down the valley.

Back at the campsite we warmed up with hot chocolate made with fresh milk from the farming couple who'd collected solar lights yesterday, followed by a lunch of pitta pockets filled with guacamole, cucumber and tomato.

Our minibus arrived early, at 12.15pm ish, so it was a speedy pack up of bags, tents and camp kit - all done in 15 minutes or so. We drove through the Quebrada Pumapampa / Pachacoto and out of the Parque Nacional Huascarán, with just a couple of stops - at the petroglyphs and to check on more LED lights distributed last year. Then the high road back to Huaraz.

Another shower in room 14, and the final set of clean(ish) clothes (the ones I'd travelled out in) and I was ready for our trip into town - Mike to collect laundry from Lavandería Liz, Christine to deposit some, and various pills from the Medifarma including Albendazole Giardia worm-blitzing pills for me. Cafe Andino was our ultimate objective, where we met up with Dave and sat out on the terrace indulging in coffee and apple pie.

Next up: beer and nibbles for this evening's farewell gathering back on the Hotel Columba's veranda. Christina and I were in charge. Sierra Andina proved impossible to come by - it's fiesta time - so we settled for Cristal.

A lovely early evening drink, snack and chat with Amner, Antonia and Melky, then a slightly tipsy walk to El Rinconcito Minero for more beers and another great meal - Christine and I sharing a veg chaufa and chips.

Back at the hotel, I managed to get everything back into my rucksack, just about. It required a fair amount of brute force!

Stupidly succumbed to the TV again, flicking through the channels until almost 11pm and pick up more news about the increased Israeli shelling of Gaza and the shooting down of Malaysia Airlines MH17 over the Ukraine.

Read more about my Cordillera Blanca trek with Val Pitkethly.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Wednesday 09 July 2014 - Day 10 - Jancapampa (3,673m / 12,050ft) - Quebrada Jancapampa (3,535m / 11,600ft) - Wild camp below Yanacon Pass (4,189m / 13,743ft)

Another fab day.

Awake early, and all packed by the time bed tea was delivered on schedule at 7am by Luis and Amner, along with the news that they'd had a fine time at last night's fiesta. I regretted not going.

Breakfast in the big tent, together with the nurse and the young boy. Anne and Val held an impromptu health clinic outside, tending an old lady with infected cuts on her hands, and working out some basic physio exercises for the boy.

At 8.20am-ish we set off downhill past scattered farms with girls feeding pigs and men leading out cattle, and into the Quebrada Jancapampa proper. High above the glaciers remained shrouded in cloud. A fine walk along the flat, working around the streams and boggy bits, and meeting a couple and a solo man who'd come down from their farms in search of LED solar lights - duly distributed.

We climbed out of the valley through woodland - hard work, but satisfying when we emerged by a babbling brook for a drink and sweets in the sunshine.

A slow and steady walk - sometimes flat, sometimes steep, sometimes in the open, sometimes in sparse woodland, at other times scrambling up dry waterfall gullies - brought us to a wide open upland valley where the donkeys were being unloaded. The farmers at Jancapampa had rented us some more donkeys and a medical horse. En route, wild flowers galore, and a hummingbird sighting.

Anne, Mike and I mucked in to pitch our still damp tents on neatly grazed grass sprinkled with flowers and took photos of the super scenic setting while lunch was prepared - a feast of veg noodle soup, toasted cheese and tomato sandwiches with pimento stuffed olives, gherkins, tuna and guacamole adornment options. Lots of tea.

Revitalised, Christine, Anne and I put our boots back on and clambered over rock slabs above the camp to explore - fabulous views of the ridge coming down from the pass and the valley wed' walked up, a hidden loch and the rare red shongo shongo plant. A lovely stroll back to camp for a wash (with Aguaaaaar paraaaaa lavarrrrrrrr, naturally) and a read - The Guardian Book of Mountains, appropriately.

The rest of the afternoon was whiled away in our now familiar routine - tea, diary, Scrabble/Yahtzee/Ten Thousand. All very sociable, but easily so.

Another gem of an evening meal - Bean soup with egg drop and spring onion garnish, BBQ chicken and chips (BBQ-sauced champignons for me), broccoli and carrots. All rounded off with panettone and custard. The camp fire kept us warm as the chickens roasted and we star gazed.... the daytime cloud cover breaking up to reveal a sparkling night sky. A cold night ahead. Feeling truly away from it all for the first time.

Read more about my Cordillera Blanca trek with Val Pitkethly.

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Monday 29 July 2013 - Day 10 - Incahuain / Laguna Carhuacocha / Qarwaqucha (4,200m) - rest day

Val adjusted the itinerary to make this a much appreciated rest day at lovely Laguna Carhuacocha / Qarwaqucha. We woke to blue skies and breakfasted al fresco with a fantastic view of Siula Grande (6,344 m / 20,814 ft), Yerupajá (6,635 m / 21,768 ft), Yerupajá Chico (6,089 m / 19,977 ft), Jirishanca (6,126 m / 20,098 ft) and Jirishanca Chico (5,446m / 17,867 ft) - snow topped peaks and fluted ridges, with glaciers reaching down into the valley below.

Not that the morning was that restful as we headed off down into the valley to deliver solar lights funded by Val's charity, Light Education Development, to a local elderly lady who still lives in her smallholding, raising sheep, chickens and cows at the base of the Cordillera. Amazing to see.

Leaving Juan to explain the solar lights, we avoided Petronella's bull and headed off south getting closer to the mountains and crossing the river and climbing up the steep glacial rim of Laguna Gangrajanca, the first of the three glacial lakes that gather at the feet of Siula Grande and Yerupajá.

With Juan and Val's flasks supplying tea (BYO mug), we took in the great views of the lake to the soundtrack of the bangs and roars of occasional avalanches before heading back to lunch at our Incahuain camp. Reaching the river, we spotted Melky, John and Omar tickling trout - Val joined in and we returned with quite a haul. That was dinner sorted!

A leisurely afternoon with the sun high above allowed time for washing (clothes and hair), lamb rescue, avalanche watching, reading and snoozing. Once the sun dropped below the ridge though the temperature plummeted and we were back in down jackets for dinner - fresh fried trout and chips.

Read more about the Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit plus Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.

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Wednesday 09 July 2014 - Day 10 - Jancapampa (3,673m / 12,050ft) - Quebrada Jancapampa (3,535m / 11,600ft) - Wild camp below Yanacon Pass (4,189m / 13,743ft)

Another fab day.

Awake early, and all packed by the time bed tea was delivered on schedule at 7am by Luis and Amner, along with the news that they'd had a fine time at last night's fiesta. I regretted not going.

Breakfast in the big tent, together with the nurse and the young boy. Anne and Val held an impromptu health clinic outside, tending an old lady with infected cuts on her hands, and working out some basic physio exercises for the boy.

At 8.20am-ish we set off downhill past scattered farms with girls feeding pigs and men leading out cattle, and into the Quebrada Jancapampa proper. High above the glaciers remained shrouded in cloud. A fine walk along the flat, working around the streams and boggy bits, and meeting a couple and a solo man who'd come down from their farms in search of LED solar lights - duly distributed.

We climbed out of the valley through woodland - hard work, but satisfying when we emerged by a babbling brook for a drink and sweets in the sunshine.

A slow and steady walk - sometimes flat, sometimes steep, sometimes in the open, sometimes in sparse woodland, at other times scrambling up dry waterfall gullies - brought us to a wide open upland valley where the donkeys were being unloaded. The farmers at Jancapampa had rented us some more donkeys and a medical horse. En route, wild flowers galore, and a hummingbird sighting.

Anne, Mike and I mucked in to pitch our still damp tents on neatly grazed grass sprinkled with flowers and took photos of the super scenic setting while lunch was prepared - a feast of veg noodle soup, toasted cheese and tomato sandwiches with pimento stuffed olives, gherkins, tuna and guacamole adornment options. Lots of tea.

Revitalised, Christine, Anne and I put our boots back on and clambered over rock slabs above the camp to explore - fabulous views of the ridge coming down from the pass and the valley wed' walked up, a hidden loch and the rare red shongo shongo plant. A lovely stroll back to camp for a wash (with Aguaaaaar paraaaaa lavarrrrrrrr, naturally) and a read - The Guardian Book of Mountains, appropriately.

The rest of the afternoon was whiled away in our now familiar routine - tea, diary, Scrabble/Yahtzee/Ten Thousand. All very sociable, but easily so.

Another gem of an evening meal - Bean soup with egg drop and spring onion garnish, BBQ chicken and chips (BBQ-sauced champignons for me), broccoli and carrots. All rounded off with panettone and custard. The camp fire kept us warm as the chickens roasted and we star gazed.... the daytime cloud cover breaking up to reveal a sparkling night sky. A cold night ahead. Feeling truly away from it all for the first time.

Read more about my Cordillera Blanca trek with Val Pitkethly.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

(Mountains identified with help from Günter Seyfferth's Die Berge des Himalaya website's materials on Trashi Labtsa (5755 m), Khumbu-Rolwaling, mit Parchamo (6273 m).)

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Wednesday 09 July 2014 - Day 10 - Jancapampa (3,673m / 12,050ft) - Quebrada Jancapampa (3,535m / 11,600ft) - Wild camp below Yanacon Pass (4,189m / 13,743ft)

Another fab day.

Awake early, and all packed by the time bed tea was delivered on schedule at 7am by Luis and Amner, along with the news that they'd had a fine time at last night's fiesta. I regretted not going.

Breakfast in the big tent, together with the nurse and the young boy. Anne and Val held an impromptu health clinic outside, tending an old lady with infected cuts on her hands, and working out some basic physio exercises for the boy.

At 8.20am-ish we set off downhill past scattered farms with girls feeding pigs and men leading out cattle, and into the Quebrada Jancapampa proper. High above the glaciers remained shrouded in cloud. A fine walk along the flat, working around the streams and boggy bits, and meeting a couple and a solo man who'd come down from their farms in search of LED solar lights - duly distributed.

We climbed out of the valley through woodland - hard work, but satisfying when we emerged by a babbling brook for a drink and sweets in the sunshine.

A slow and steady walk - sometimes flat, sometimes steep, sometimes in the open, sometimes in sparse woodland, at other times scrambling up dry waterfall gullies - brought us to a wide open upland valley where the donkeys were being unloaded. The farmers at Jancapampa had rented us some more donkeys and a medical horse. En route, wild flowers galore, and a hummingbird sighting.

Anne, Mike and I mucked in to pitch our still damp tents on neatly grazed grass sprinkled with flowers and took photos of the super scenic setting while lunch was prepared - a feast of veg noodle soup, toasted cheese and tomato sandwiches with pimento stuffed olives, gherkins, tuna and guacamole adornment options. Lots of tea.

Revitalised, Christine, Anne and I put our boots back on and clambered over rock slabs above the camp to explore - fabulous views of the ridge coming down from the pass and the valley wed' walked up, a hidden loch and the rare red shongo shongo plant. A lovely stroll back to camp for a wash (with Aguaaaaar paraaaaa lavarrrrrrrr, naturally) and a read - The Guardian Book of Mountains, appropriately.

The rest of the afternoon was whiled away in our now familiar routine - tea, diary, Scrabble/Yahtzee/Ten Thousand. All very sociable, but easily so.

Another gem of an evening meal - Bean soup with egg drop and spring onion garnish, BBQ chicken and chips (BBQ-sauced champignons for me), broccoli and carrots. All rounded off with panettone and custard. The camp fire kept us warm as the chickens roasted and we star gazed.... the daytime cloud cover breaking up to reveal a sparkling night sky. A cold night ahead. Feeling truly away from it all for the first time.

Read more about my Cordillera Blanca trek with Val Pitkethly.

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Wednesday 27 April 2016

Thame (3800m): Day hike to Thengpo (4350m)

An unforgettable day, acclimatising to the altitude with a day hike up to Thengpo for lunch and returning via Pasang Nuru's in Thame Teng.

After fond farewells to Lubko, Mykola and Jack who were heading up to Lungden/Arye with a view to crossing the Renjo La tomorrow, it was back up onto the gompa ridge for us and along the sandy juniper-lined path towards the summer yak pastures and stone homes at Khurkekharka. Gob smacking views back towards Thamserku and Kangtega, but no one in residence - with heavy snowfall last October/November and next to no rainfall since, there's no grazing for the animals.

Unbelievably the views got even better as we went further up the Thame Khola valley towards Thengpo: Ama Dablam - Makalu (मकालु) - Ombigaichan - Mingbo La - Malanphulan - Kangtega. Avalanches rolled down the slopes of the Lumding Himal on our left, the crystal clear river winding its way from one side of the wide open valley to the other. Yaks munching on what they can find.

At Thengpo we tucked into our packed lunch of spicy noodle soup, cheese and chapati, drinking in the stunning views of Bigphera Go Shar and Pacchermo further up the valley. Chhiring checked the didi's LED solar lights - still fearful of tremors she sleeps in a German Red Cross tent in the shadows of Tengkangboche and Paniyo Tippa.

Three more avalanches, lots of photos - and paracetamol - then back down the valley, veering off into Thame Teng to visit Pasang Nuru, the Tibetan refugee painter who lost all of his fingers and toes in an avalanche many years ago. Tea, boiled potatoes and painting perusal and purchasing, then back to a busy lodge - Kiwis (4), Japanese (4), Brits (2) and Ladies (3).

Washing water, diary, tea and biscuits, dice and my first win this trip!

Dinner.

Bed.

Read more on SparklyTrainers: Val Pitkethly's On and Off the Beaten Track through Solukhumbu.

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Saturday, 4 April 2015: Chhule (3350 m) to Mu Gompa (3700 m)

A magic day, a high point in several senses.

Leaving Anthony and Val in Chhule (छुले) repairing and checking LED solar lights distributed 10 years or so ago (most still going strong… and much valued), Hazel and I headed up the Tsum Valley with Tsering and Krishna, following the Sardi Khola / Syar Khola / Tsum Chu river as usual - running more glacially as we got further into the mountains and closer to the southern edge of the Tibetan plateau.

Beautiful weather, lots more mani walls and chortens (and patches of old snow) on the approach to Mu Gompa, with a steep, slippery climb at the end.

Tsering set up our tents on the highest paved terrace, with stunning views back down the valley - the Ganesh Himal to the east, the Sringi Himal to the west. Across the valley - the river now far below us - a high yak kharka leading up to (hidden) Longnang glacier and the Phuchun Khola, and the peaks of Taya Himal and Pashuwo. A Himalayan Griffon (Gyps himalayensis) gliding high above the stone roof of the gompa. Helipad - incongruous - below.

Hot lemon and kit kats for elevenses-with-that-view on the terrace segued into lunch in one of the lower sets of terraced rooms. Hardly a soul about - everyone’s gone to KTM to see the visiting Rinproche. We had the caretaker and yak herders seeking shelter for company.

Come the afternoon though, the weather changed, and our afternoon stroll up to Dhephu Doma - the ancient Ani Gompa at 4000 m - featured snow... the one thing I’d (sort of) assured Hazel we wouldn’t have!

By dinner time our tents had been transformed into iced bombes, necessitating a night of tent bashing from inside and out to dislodge the snow….

A super, silent night - my first time camping in snow. Magic.

Map from Günter Seyfferth’s Die Berge des Himalaya (The mountains of Himalaya). Here are his annotated photos from Mu Gompa: Chhule, Churke Himal and Ganesh II and Phuchun Khola valley, Pashuwo, Langpo Kangri, Ganesh I (Yangra Kangri), Churke Himal.

Read more about my Tsum Valley trek with Val Pitkethly.

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