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A Chilly Comedy: My Frozen Hour on the Cruz del Sur.
I thought I was prepared for the cold. I mean, I’ve lived through a Chicago winter. But nothing could have prepared me for the bone-chilling adventure that awaited me on the Cruz del Sur.
As I boarded the boat, I felt a gust of wind so strong it threatened to rip my face off. I swear, I saw a penguin waddle by, chuckling at my feeble human attempts to stay warm. I’d barely managed to snap a few photos of the towering ice wall, a frozen behemoth rising 74 meters (243 feet) above the water’s surface, before my fingers turned into popsicles.
The mountains, Cerro Moreno (1,640 meters/5,381 feet) and Cerro Cervantes (2,330 meters/7,644 feet), looked down on me with icy disdain. I imagined them whispering, “Poor human, so unprepared for the wrath of Patagonia.” I tried to ignore their icy judgment and focus on the stunning scenery.
I bundled up in every layer of clothing I had, but it was like wearing tissue paper. I longed for a cold drink, a Pisco Sour perhaps, but alas, there was no bar on this frozen vessel. I was stuck shivering, dreaming of tropical beaches and piña coladas.
As we returned to Puerto Bandera, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of accomplishment. I had survived the icy onslaught of Patagonia. I had faced the elements and emerged victorious, albeit slightly frostbitten. And as I warmed up by the fire, I knew I would never forget this unforgettable, and incredibly cold, adventure.
After conquering the 150.92-kilometer (93.77-mile) extended W trek in 6 days, I finally escaped the stunning, yet brutal, beauty of Torres del Paine, Chile. The hike was undoubtedly challenging, with steep ascents, river crossings, and unpredictable weather. But the rewards were immeasurable. The panoramic views of the mountains, glaciers, and lakes were simply breathtaking, and I'll cherish the memories I made with my fellow hikers forever. After a quick 1-hour and 15-minute drive back to Puerto Natales, southern Chile, I ditched my heavy backpack and indulged in a well-deserved feast. The next morning, I was up bright and early, ready to conquer the border crossing into Argentina. A 6-hour and 48-minute journey later, I arrived at my next destination: the jaw-dropping Perito Moreno Glacier, the los Glaciares National Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site.
If you thought the Grey Glacier in Torres del Paine was impressive, wait until you see this ice behemoth! Both glaciers are part of the same massive ice field, making Patagonia a true ice lover's paradise. Perito Moreno is like a small country made entirely of ice.
The 250 km² (97 sq mi) ice formation, 30 km (19 mi) long, is one of 48 glaciers fed by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field located in the Andes mountain range, which it shares with Chile, which has a small part of the glacier's origin. This ice field is the world's third-largest reserve of fresh water and the third largest ice cap in the world after Antarctica and Greenland. The Southern Patagonian Ice Field stretches approximately 350 kilometers (217 miles) from north to south, covers roughly 16,800 square kilometers (6,500 square miles), and generally sits at an elevation of around 1,500 meters (4,900 feet) above sea level. Since 2020, the glacier has been retreating on its northern front, possibly due to climate change. It was previously one of the few unusual glaciers that maintained a state of equilibrium during the late 20th and early 21st centuries because it was accumulating mass at a rate similar to its loss. The reason for its unusually long period of stability remains debated by glaciologists.
The terminus of the Perito Moreno Glacier is 5 km (3.1 mi) wide, with an average height of 74 m (240 ft) above the surface of the water of Argentino Lake in Argentina. It has a total ice depth of 170 meters (558 ft).
I'm still reeling from the sheer size and otherworldly beauty of this icy giant. Stay tuned for more updates from my Patagonian adventure!
Pre-dawn on a mid-February morning south of the equator beside Lake Elementaita in Kenya's Great Rift Valley. ©2025 John M. Hudson | jmhudson1.com
The National Hotel is on the corner of High and Market streets in Fremantle. Originally built as a shop in 1868, it was occupied by the National Bank in the early 1880s. When the bank relocated in 1886, the building became the National Hotel.
Finally moved in but not unpacked....that can wait. Christmas is in two weeks, so much to do. Discovered this pond while out walking during the golden hour....I think I am going to like it here.
My driveway in Henry County, Georgia
I almost never shoot digital but the iPhone 15 was in my pocket.
[Scene: You're standing in front of the massive, towering Perito Moreno Glacier. The glacier seems to have a personality of its own, and it's not very happy with your presence.]
You: Alright, big guy, I'm here to climb you. Yeah, you heard me. To the top of that 74-meter, 240-foot wall of ice.
Glacier: (in a deep, cracking voice) Oh, is that so?
You: (undeterred) Absolutely! I've been training for this my whole life. Well, maybe not my whole life, but at least since I saw that nature documentary.
Glacier: (chuckles, a sound like cracking ice) Training? You think a few hours at the gym is going to prepare you for me? I've been around for thousands of years. I've seen dinosaurs come and go.
You: Yeah, yeah, I get it. You're old. But I'm young and full of energy. And besides, I've got the right gear. (You show off your climbing equipment)
Glacier: Gear? That's cute. You know, they say I'm melting. But I think you're the one who's about to melt under the pressure.
You: (trying to lighten the mood) Hey, we're all just trying to make it in this world, right? And besides, I'm not just doing this for me. I'm doing it for science!
Glacier: (sarcastically) Oh, really? And what exactly are you going to discover up there? That I'm cold? That ice is slippery?
You: Well, actually, I'm hoping to learn more about the glacier's retreat and the impact of climate change.
Glacier: Climate change? That's a new one. Last I checked, it was humans causing all the problems.
You: Okay, okay, let's not get political.
Glacier: (sighs dramatically) Fine. But let me warn you, buddy. I'm 5 kilometers wide and 170 meters deep. You're not going to get very far.
You: (determined) We'll see about that. I've got my eye on the prize. That sweet, sweet summit.
Glacier: (chuckles again) Summit? More like the bottom of a very deep lake.
[The glacier lets out a huge crack, and a chunk of ice breaks off and crashes into the water below. You take a step back.]
You: Okay, maybe I'll just stick to the hiking trail.
Glacier: (satisfied) Now that's more like it.
[The crowd laughs]