View allAll Photos Tagged ifixit
in the time of corona.
okay, I ordered a new battery from IFIXIT and installed it and my laptop still wasn't working. so I had to order a new power cord and charger.
lots of money spent on an old computer, but I can't afford to buy a new one. voilà, my laptop is up and running again. knock on wood.
leon needs to replace his laptop. anyone running a 2020 Mac Air?
one of my two weather stations is working.
leon is still iffy with his flu. this is two weeks later.
I came down with about 4 days after he did so I'm even iffier.
but we are upright and walking most of the time. both of us are tired but alive.
the dogs are all just fine.
except for chai, he has horrendous gas at night. so here I sit in bed surrounded by a noxious cloud.
gasp.
otherwise, he seems peachy keen.
I bought an inexpensive Diana Instant camera, thanks to donald and his stipend. I am having problems with the Fujifilm Instax film. it comes out dark even outside in mid-day.
[the all yellow photo above is my mistake. I left on the lens cap.]
I've wasted almost two boxes of film. can anyone help?
I get out of the house at most, once every couple of weeks.
I'm a little stir crazy, too.
the house actually got dirty again.
the world is a mess right now & I know my problems are mundane. thank goodness for mundane.
BLACK LIVES MATTER
MacPro was dead. The repair fee was said to be 150,000 yen by Apple japan. Nah I repair at 150,000 JPY, I’ll select iMac 5K. Because I don’t like black trash can. And I chose Skylake i7 6700K and 500 GB of SSD replace it. I don’t place data on the boot drive. Put it on an external HDD. And make a clone with C.C.C. on an external HDD not usually connected. The probability that a drive not connected to a machine, break risk is very low. I also have NAS. However, the data transfer rate is a donkey. Mac / PCs It is not important. It sells without limit in such a thing everywhere sides. The DATA. This is not sold anywhere. Lost, if it crashed, it is game over. You’ll hear 10 counts.
My One drive of Microsoft has 1 TB. My iCloud Is 50 GB, iCloud is too much Violently expensive.
Boot drive is enough 256GB something.
IFIXIT shipped double sided tape and several tools. I’m an old member here.
The old soldier has gone. R.I.P. MacPro…
Nene
Productions notes: processed in Lightroom Classic and Silver Efex Pro (Illford Delta 100 Pro film simulation).
AUTONOMOUS DESIGN GROUP
Adapted from designs by Atelier Populaire from May 1968
(and i fitted a new battery in my MacBook pro. :)
They come handy now to open any kind of device. // Productions notes: processed in Lightroom Classic and DXO Analog Efex Pro 2
Little Black Kitten Comes Home.
My son got a black kitten from the SPCA!
Meike 85mm F1.8 Portrait Lens (great Lens, amazing price)
But I killed this lens by flashing in. Once flashed with the wrong software version, which Mieke code lets you do, it's unrepairable.
www.ifixit.com/Guide/Bricked+Meiki+85mm+f-1.8+Portrait+le...(Failed+symetical+key+encrypted+and+read+disable)./193970
They come handy now to open any kind of device. // Productions notes: processed in Lightroom Classic and DXO Color Efex Pro 4
Well-known technical/support issue/bug with Sony DSC-HX400V superzoom camera: some cameras develop a persistent - and annoying/distracting - flashing error message in the center of the display: "E:62:10".
One online forum post from 2016 said an authorized Sony service center wanted 167 USD just to assess problem. Have seen some repair services advertise 125-135 USD fix for this issue. Maybe not prevalent enough issue for a class action lawsuit. iFixit (popular, helpful DIY right-to-repair site) forum discussion: www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/483671/What+is+error+E:62:10+...
Well-known technical/support issue/bug with Sony DSC-HX400V superzoom camera: some cameras develop a persistent - and annoying/distracting - flashing error message in the center of the display: "E:62:10".
One online forum post from 2016 said an authorized Sony service center wanted 167 USD just to assess problem. Have seen some repair services advertise 125-135 USD fix for this issue. Maybe not prevalent enough issue for a class action lawsuit. iFixit (popular, helpful DIY right-to-repair site) forum discussion: www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/483671/What+is+error+E:62:10+...
Got my hairpin legs back from Champion Powder Coating. Still not sure about my decision about straight hairpin legs since my last ones were angled. But I'm sure it's just a matter of me getting used to them. Tabletop is an IKEA Hilver, legs were welded for me by someone in SJ using IKEA Adils mounts.
As for the workspace, this is slightly different than what I posted several years back. It now has a dusty (sorry haha) 2.3ghz i7 Quad Core Mac mini running 10.10.4 with 8gb of RAM, a 250gb Samsung 850 EVO SSD and a 750GB WD Black that's plugged into a 27" Cinema Display. Despite it's age, I've been pretty happy with the combo and don't see myself replacing it for a while. Mobile devices are a 5s and a Mini 2, both 16gb and running jailbroken 8.3. Would get a Mini 3 just for the Touch ID's visual consistency with my phone (I can be a little obsessive compulsive lol).
Sound still mostly comes out of my mini toslink connected iPod Hi-Fi that I probably will never get rid of, but I also use a Meridian Explorer paired with Grado SR-325s (classic flat cups, with newer drivers since one of the originals blew out last year). I keep the remote on my desk so I can adjust the volume and change tracks while I'm reading in my Modernica Rocker (hey, at least it's fiberglass). The long USB cable on the floor is for when I want to lay in bed and read with my headphones on.
My Aluminum headphone stand and mouse pad are Elago, which I think are better looking and better built than my previous Just Mobile ones. The OWC Mercury Elite Pro HDD enclosures contain 1TB 7200RPM Travelstars and are rotated with one being left at work. The Magic Mouse and Bluetooth Keyboard are incredibly old. I also have misc. peripherals and what not on the side, like a wired keyboard and mighty Mouse, a bare DVD drive with a SATA to USB adapter (for Netflix movies) and an iFixit toolkit.
And for those wondering, the beer is 21st Amendment Brew Free or Die IPA on a Supreme Fuck Em! Coaster :)
OSX 10.10.2 and iOS 8.1.3.
Updating macs, iphones, ipads, apple tv’s… Sometimes security concerns and bugs need updating all devices in the house…
Canon AE1 (1976 - 1984)
Montura FD.
Prioridad velocidad, manual.
Fotometro TTL.
Velocidad 2s a 1/1000
Alimentación 4LR44 6V
Características:
Fue uno de los primeros modelos en montar microprocesadres para calcular la exposición, siendo todo el resto manual, arrastre, rebobinado, etc, quizás esta es la gran diferencia con la posterior serie T.
Cámara de diseño clásico fue la primera de la serie A, AT-1 (1977), A-1 (1978), AV-1 (1979), AE-1 Program (1981) y AL-1 (1982)
El cuerpo es de aluminio robusto pero bastante ligero.
Fue una cámara muy vendida en todo el mundo y actualmente todavía tiene muchos fans y usuarios.
En uso:
Es una cámara muy sencilla de usar.
Básicamente es una cámara de prioridad velocidad, que se puede convertir en manual.
Marcas la velocidad deseada en el dial y la cámara te informa en el visor de la apertura que usara.
En caso de que la apertura no este en el rango de la cámara te avisa mediante un punto rojo.
Si quieres otra apertura, la pasas a manual descontectando la "A" del objetivo.
Tiene un botón de doble exposición (2x) para contraluces y un botón para cerrar el automático y comprobar la profundidad de campo y bloquear la apertura.
Mi cámara (es española), en esta cámara es normal el "asma" o chirrido al disparar por mala lubricación del disparador.
Mi cámara tiene algo de "asma" pero no siempre y no es preocupante, no ha dado problemas en ningun momento.
También tiene algo de juego en la palanca de arrastre pero tampoco ha dado problemas.
En resumen una cámara cómoda, fácil de usar que unida a los fantásticos lentes FD da unas imágenes muy bonitas.
Reparación:
Encontre por la WEB un sistema fácil para resolver el problema de "asma"
Es un problema "estético" mas que funcional.
Pero quitando un par de tornillos del frontal y con un poco de "6en1" se soluciona en 1 minuto.
Lo he probado y funciona.
La cámara huele unos días a "6en1" pero se pasa.
Yo puse poco, no vaya a ser que se manche el espejo.
El link de la reparación es:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XarY-Hk12wg
En la web:
Manual de usuario:
www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_ae-1/canon_ae-1.htm
Guias de usuario:
www.ehow.com/way_5329555_instructions-canon-ae-camera.html
www.ifixit.com/Device/Canon_AE-1
www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Use-a-Canon-A1AE-1-35mm-C...
Información:
es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_AE-1
En ingles:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_AE-1
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources...
camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Canon_AE-1
www.photographyreview.com/cat/cameras/film-cameras/35mm/c...
Videos:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_Tu-F6Udq4
www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIWDNniwr0E
www.youtube.com/watch?v=f37OCNfvKPk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEMRdGUD82E
Los lomográficos:
www.lomography.es/photos/cameras/3315294-canon-ae-1
En Flickr
كما جرت العادة كل مرة فإن خبراء موقع “iFixit” المختصون يقومون بتفكيك الأجهزة الحديثة لمعرفة مكوناتها وطريقة تركيبها ومعرفة مدى صعوبة أو سهولة تفكيكها، وبعد أن قاموا بهذا الأمر على حاسوب ماك بوك برو طراز 13 بوصة والذي حصل على تقييم متدني فإن ماك بوك برو TouchBar بدوره خيب الآمال وجا...
www.3faf.com/2016/11/18/%d9%85%d8%a7%d9%83-%d8%a8%d9%88%d...
Well-known technical/support issue/bug with Sony DSC-HX400V superzoom camera: some cameras develop a persistent - and annoying/distracting - flashing error message in the center of the display: "E:62:10".
One online forum post from 2016 said an authorized Sony service center wanted 167 USD just to assess problem. Have seen some repair services advertise 125-135 USD fix for this issue. Maybe not prevalent enough issue for a class action lawsuit. iFixit (popular, helpful DIY right-to-repair site) forum discussion: www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/483671/What+is+error+E:62:10+...
Today’s VR headsets are marvels of miniaturization. And, as iFixit’s teardowns display, both of those the Oculus Rift and HTC’s Vive are also remarkably person-friendly when it arrives to repair and customization.
Today’s teardown of the Vive doesn’t have rather the novelty of the one partic...
First 1000 businesses who contacts honestechs.com will receive a business mobile app and the development fee will be waived. Contact us today.
#electronics #technology #tech #electronic #device #gadget #gadgets #instatech #instagood #geek #techie #nerd #techy #photooftheday #computers #laptops #hack #screen
honestechs.com/2016/04/26/teardown-of-htc-vive-highlights...
Inspired by an Australian nutter on YouTube I decided to revive my beloved old iPod Mini. It needed a battery replacement so at the same time I took the opportunity to upgrade from 4GB to 32GB of storage.
The Mini's 4GB Hitachi Microdrive was a clever scheme to fit an extremely teeny hard disk into the form-factor of a Type II Compact Flash card (flash storage capacities were much lower back in those days).
So you might be wondering if your iPod MIni could use a solid-state CF card as storage, and the answer is, sure! However buying them today, the prices of higher-capacity CF cards seem out of line compared to our much more ubiquitous SD cards. This is where the blue SD-to-CF adapter comes in.
I formatted the SD card from Disk Utility on my Mac, using "Apple Partition Map" and "MacOS Extended." I am not certain this version of iPod Mini could work with 64GB or higher SDXC cards [see comments], but I can't ever see needing that much space just for music (no video here!)
The blue painter's tape is just holding things in place temporarily until I confirm everything functions correctly.
Our photo club theme for the month of January was "Technology", so I broke down some eWaste (including my long-retired first MacBook and long-dead launch season Nintendo Wii) to attempt some macros and to gain a little experience with my iFixit precision kit–I'm generally terrified of opening any electronics up or replacing components.
A friends iMac 2012 HD Upgrade, a lot more easy to repair than the latest iMacs.
Still, this i7 iMac is a great machine, hope the new hard drive lasts more than the apple one.
Many thanks to Mario for the photos.
You can contact Mario if you need MAC low price mac repairs in Portugal on is facebook profile www.facebook.com/mario.r.vasconcelos.35/about
After warrantie this repair would cost a lot of money on an apple service provider, but with the help of a apple tech repair friend, the total cost was the price of an hard drive only.
120 Euros…
(This is a summary from my Mac Mini SSD RAID-0 Project, see the set for more photos and a video.)
[ General disclaimer: These are my findings posted for the curious; do this at your own risk, don't blame me if stuff breaks etc. ]
Holy crap, I don't want to ever have to do that again. Hopefully, it still works when reassembled with 8 GB of RAM and dual SSDs. In theory, it just might work. (Update: I now feel comfortable with this after tearing down and rebuilding a few times - and two weeks of running time later, no problems.)
Yes, this whole operation is somewhat frivolous. The stock dual 7200-RPM 500-GB 2.5" drives will themselves be configured as SPAN and in an external enclosure, driven via Firewire 800.
Not in the frame: Mainboard.
Tools used: Torx T6 and T8 screwdrivers (and, I think, a Philips #00) and a Dogfish Head 90-minute IPA.
Resources
I referenced a teardown guide from ifixit for the "steps" and post-it notes, so I could remember what went where when reassembling. (Note: not all steps apply, you don't need to disconnect the bluetooth module etc.)
For the hard drive removal / upgrade process, this OWC video was handy and has rather hilarious background muzak. Note that there are different videos for server vs. non-server models.
General tips
Don't bother with the crappy $5 screwdriver "kits" (eg. the blue and green ones by the RAM in this photo) - go to your local hardware store (or online) and pay the $6 or whatever it might cost per tool for quality Torx T6, T8, and (if needed) Philips #00 screwdrivers. One of the cheap ones, in one case, didn't fit one fan screw I was trying to remove. However, the so-called plastic "spudger" tool did come in handy for pulling up cables and nudging other things where fingers wouldn't reach, and where metal was not a good choice to use.
Removing the "mainboard"
The OWC video suggested you should put screwdrivers into holes on the mainboard, and pull back; this seems like a great way to break or snap the PCB and/or accidentally ruin traces along the way. I tried pulling several times, but it seemed that no amount of careful force would budge the thing.
Instead, I turned the mini around and carefully pushed the heat sink / vent outward using my thumbs, and with a little pressure, was able to pop the board out. The heatsink is just behind where the screw holes are shown in the video, toward the connector plate. It is pretty tight as the plate (where all the USB + power connectors etc. are) has snaps/clips on either end holding it in, but it does eventually give.
Once you get the mainboard, the rest is easy. Don't pull the board fully out until any attached power cables etc. have been disconnected - and once the board is out, you can take out the power supply and HD chassis.
I also recommend booting the computer upside-down and with the bottom cover off once after reassembling, just to make sure the fan starts up; I noticed that mine didn't at first(!), because the tiny fan power connector was not fully-seated on the mainboard when I put it back in. No fan would've meant a toasted CPU at some point, so make sure you check that. Use a flat plastic tool or something to push the connector flush with the board, to ensure it's seated nicely.
Also, there's a bit of a trick with the wireless module / antenna / grill assembly when popping it out and in - I think it slides underneath into place, so keep that in mind. Similar moves apply to the black plastic cowling at the bottom left near the fan. Sometimes things need a little jiggling to get into place.
Re-installing Lion: ⌘-R / Internet Recovery FTW
On mid-2011(?) Mac hardware, push and hold Apple-R (⌘-R) during boot to kickstart the Lion Recovery mode, with wifi or an ethernet cable connected. It'll attempt to boot from a Lion recovery partition normally installed, and when that fails, it will magically go out on the Internets, and download and install and boot the recovery partition. That will run and after disk set-up and partitioning etc., another download of up to 7 GB (at least, according to my router's traffic for that day) will happen, Lion will install, reboot, and voila.
Partitioning the SSDs, overprovisioning and stripe block size
From what I read online, it was recommended to leave up to 20% "unpartitioned" empty space for "overprovisioning" with an SSD to help with performance (garbage collection) and reliability. I got two OCZ Vertex III 60 GB SSDs, and using the disk utility built into the Lion installer, set them up with two partitions: [ 48 GB ext3 / 12 GB empty space ]. As for stripe block size, I had heard 64 KB or 128 KB as general recommendations, so I used 128.
Performance results
With SATA 3.0 (up to 6 gbps) and SandForce 2xxx controllers on the OCZ SSDs pushing up to 550 MB/sec read rates, I was able to get 1000+ MB/sec on larger files in benchmarks.
RAID-0 pros/cons: Worth it, or is one SSD enough?
Upside:
- Wow, up to 1000 MB/sec. That is a shiny number.
Downsides:
- If one drive goes south, you lose everything.
- In most cases, 1000 MB/sec is a theoretical maximum you'll hit only in benchmarks. Small bursts may be more realistic, and in most cases with less-compressible data, numbers will be much lower (albeit, 250+ MB/sec or whatever is still nothing to sneeze at.)
If you're a tinkerer / overclocking fan and don't fear the risk of data loss (i.e., you make time machine or image backups), RAID-0 is worth trying just for the fun of it. Otherwise, I think one SSD alone makes a huge difference in responsiveness given near-zero seek times etc., and with theoretical maximums of 500 MB/sec, that's plenty of I/O for just about anybody.
We hold these truths to be self-evident:
1. Repair is better than recycling
2. Repair saves the planet
3. Repair saves you money
4. Repair teaches engineering
5. It you can't fix it, you don't own it
Unsustainable Design: Apple's Perpetuation of "Throw-Away" Culture
www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGvijW0lmzo
In this video MJ talks iPad 3 design, sustainability, responsible consumption, and holding Apple accountable to higher design-standards.
For the complete teardown, visit: bit.ly/ipad3_teardown
Repair is better than Recycling: Making our things last longer is both More efficient and More cost- effective than Mining theM for raw Materials.
Repair Saves the planet. Earth has limited resources and we can’t run a linear manufacturing process forever. The best way to be efficient is to reuse what we already have!
Repair Saves you Money. Fixing things is often free, and usually cheaper than replacing them. doing the repair yourself saves serious dough.
Repair teaches engineering. The best way to find out how something works is to take it apart!
If you can’t fix it, you don’t own it. Repair connects people and devices, creating bonds that transcend consumption. self-repair is sustainable.
Repair connects you with your things
Repair empowers and emboldens individuals
Repair transforms consumers into contributors
Repair inspires pride in ownership
Repair injects soul and makes things unique
Repair is independence
Repair requires creativity
Repair is green
Repair is Joyful
Repair is necessary for understanding our things
Repair saves money and resources
We have the Right:
to open and repair our things—without voiding the warranty to devices that can be opened
to error codes and wiring diagrams to troubleshooting instructions and Flowcharts
to repair documentation For everything to choose our own repair technician
to remove ‘do not remove’ stickers to repair things in the privacy oF our own homes
to replace any and all consumables ourselves
to hardware that doesn’t require proprietary tools to repair
to available, reasonably priced service parts
inspired by Mister Jalopy’s maker’s bill of rights and platform 21’s repair manifesto
Join the repair revolution at www.iFixit.com
From top left to bottom right:
- 2015 BatBook (?) Air 13" w/ InCase Icon Sleeve
- Grid-It Organizer with:
. Macbook Charger
. MagicMouse
. Western Digital Passport Ultra 2TB
. PocketJuice 7800mAh powerbank
. Assorted (?) Type-C and microUSB cables.
- iFixIt Essential Electronics Toolkit
- Moto 360 1st Gen charger
- LG headphones
- Anker SportBud BT headphones
- Casio fx-82ES Sci Calculator
- Kindle
- Faculty notes, Star Wars pencil case (because I'll never grow up, full with a bunch of pens, correctors and the sort)
- Incase Compact Backpack
PREFACE
My Galaxy S3 is almost two years old now, but even after the appearance of the S4 and recently the S5 I was still feeling like I want to use it as long as possible. Inside is a quad core CPU with 1 GB RAM. Even the S5 only got 4 cores here in Europe and 2 GB RAM is also not that generous, as of my feeling. So one of the main reasons to upgrade would be the full HD display which finally would give me finer detailed text display.
OK my phone is still fast with Cyanogen and a few weeks ago it fell down and unluckily hit a concrete edge and the display cracked. I have seen many display cracks since the appearance of the first iPhone, but this was the first display crack I ever was responsible for. As I didn't feel like spending a few hundred bucks for the repair of an old S3 but also don't want to be forced by that mistake to buy a brand new S5 I googled a bit about that display repair kits and found out that in contrast to the iPhones where the whole display unit needs to be replaced that there is another option for the S3. Just replacing the glass.
I found a DIY here www.ifixit.com/Guide/Samsung+Galaxy+S+III+Broken+Front+Gl...
I got me a repair kit then for about 12 EUR. This kit comes with a few tools (6) a double side glue tape layer (7) and the glass itself (7).
I don't want to repeat all what is said already in the linked DIY guide. So make sure that you read that before you start this procedure yourself.
DISCLAIMER
This article is only for documentation purposes. In no way do I want to encourage you to try that with your phone, nor I gonna be liable if you mess up your phone by any steps you see in this guide here. Try this at YOUR OWN RISK!
INDEX
1 Precondition / Cracks
2 Remove battery, SIM and storage card
3 read the guide
4 heat gun
5 pyrometer
6 tools (the screwdrivers were together in that package but you don't need them until you want to take out the motherboard or whatever you desire)
7 display glass and double-sided S3-shaped adhesive tape - look at this more close; there are a lot of DIY guides recommending to buy just some 3M tape, but in my kit there was a special tape layer in the shape of the original installed one ... on the picture this is the one with the blue protection layer
8 heating up the surface SLOWLY and equally (!)
9 I tried to never let the surface temperature go above 80 °C as I don't want to melt the AMOLED circuits or organic material whatever is inside
10 slowly lift the display glass ... between the glass an the display there is a soft gel layer which slowly will go off (more about that gel layer at the end)
11 heat again and again and take off slowly and heat again ... take care on the bottom of the device as there is a cable for the bottom keys backlight! (just dont stick something in at the bottom more than 2 or 3mm to be safe)
12 the glass is off and I did not crack the display - yeah :) ... now we see residue of the gel layer on the display ... I took this off slowly with the blue plastic tools ... this and cleaning of all the edges was the most time consuming part of all because you will want to be very careful to not damage the sensitive AMOLED display which has no protection at this point anymore
13 heat again - take off the adhesive (black stripe) ... and clean again ... after I cleaned the display surface with a micro fibre towel and display cleaner (no solvents!) ; also take out the metal part for the ear speaker, this one you will have to attach before you glue in the new adhesive layer
14 before you attach the new glass make sure everything is clean and then mount the new adhesive tape ... for this step I went outside to have less of dust (from interior textiles) coming on the display ... but that depends on the weather at your place (humidity binds dust particles; wind is bad!)
14 yes DONE its mounted!
15 and the best news its working - even the multi touch is working flawlessly - to my own surprise I have to admit
16 the old parts
17 Now a word for the gel layer. A lot of DIY guides never mention the gel layer which sits between the display and the glass cover. This was a big surprise to me and I had to find out a way to deal with that by my own as nobody told me before that there is a gel layer I will not be able to reuse. This gel layers main task is to optically link the glass and the display together. If you follow this guide you will loose this gel layer! If you work very carefully this will not be a technical problem, but without a gel layer between the glass and the display this simply means there will be a gap of air. Two surfaces will result in more reflections than one. So after the DIY replacment you will have more visible reflections (like sky) on your display than before. For me that is OK as I save more than 150 bucks with this trade in, but it would have been nice just if someone would have mention that before. So here we go.
RESUME
Despite of spending about 200 EUR for a professional replacement of the whole display unit, the option to exchange just the top glass layer sounds interesting. But beware that this is a dangerous process for your phone. If you are lacking mechanical skills or tools or patience it is very likely that you mess up your delicate hardware. Another point to mention again, you loose the gel layer which prevents major reflections between the glass and the display. Even if you would have that gel layer it might be another challenge to apply it properly with a ultra high vacuum machine. I had none of either, so I have to live without the gel layer now. Still, it took almost 3 hours for me to finish this, but including taking photos and having a small snack break. Patience is the key.
[EDIT after three months:] Slowly but steadily dust particles are locating in the place of the now removed gel layer. This means a negative aesthetic appearance, especially when the display is turned off. In the case of dust particles being big enough (still much less than 1mm) I even observed the particles resulting in false touch detection. This can lead to the unability of controlling the phone by touch gestures. As a temporary curement you will need to knock on the edge of the phone until the particles fall off from the display surface. If you still plan to try this DIY repair I can just emphasize the importance of thorough cleaning not only of the display itself but also on all other parts which will be covered by the glass cover, as all remaining particles have the possiblity to locate in the air gap sooner or later, affecting visual impression and false touch detection.
These are some pictures that my daughter took of me replacing the battery of the iPhone 4S. A How-To article and video can be found at www.hightechdad.com .
A friends iMac 2012 HD Upgrade, a lot more easy to repair than the latest iMacs.
Still, this i7 iMac is a great machine, hope the new hard drive lasts more than the apple one.
Many thanks to Mario for the photos.
You can contact Mario if you need MAC low price mac repairs in Portugal on is facebook profile www.facebook.com/mario.r.vasconcelos.35/about
After warrantie this repair would cost a lot of money on an apple service provider, but with the help of a apple tech repair friend, the total cost was the price of an hard drive only.
120 Euros…
A friends iMac 2012 HD Upgrade, a lot more easy to repair than the latest iMacs.
Still, this i7 iMac is a great machine, hope the new hard drive lasts more than the apple one.
Many thanks to Mario for the photos.
You can contact Mario if you need MAC low price mac repairs in Portugal on is facebook profile www.facebook.com/mario.r.vasconcelos.35/about
After warrantie this repair would cost a lot of money on an apple service provider, but with the help of a apple tech repair friend, the total cost was the price of an hard drive only.
120 Euros…