Ale's What Cures Ya: The Elevation of Beer
View allAll Photos Tagged homebrew
Friday 12th April ... my Homebrew, ('Hearthstone' Stout), is ready for drinking. 😋
Another mobile 'phone image.
Took a brief break from work this afternoon to see if the hummingbirds would take to a feeder, sans the usual red dye nectar. Seems they are thirsty enough to try the new homebrew.
The ruby-throated hummingbird (Archilochus colubris) is a species of hummingbird that generally spends the winter in Central America, Mexico, and Florida, and migrates to Eastern North America for the summer to breed. It is by far the most common hummingbird seen east of the Mississippi River in North America.
I retrieved this piece from some 'junk' that was being thrown out. I think it is an early homemade variable inductor. The two end pieces are hinged on small nails. At one time either side could be made to stay at any distance from the central coil. Has anyone else seen one of these? It reminds me of the Crosley 'book condensers'.
Philadelphia, September 2021
Field testing my first kitbash camera, the Bessabron SWC. The body/film transport is from a 1930s Bessa 66 with a re-housed Bronica 645 40mm f4 on the front. The idea was to recreate the general specs of a Hasselblad SWC from old parts. I think I've finally eliminated any remaining light leaks Still tweaking things but very happy overall
Camera: Bessabron SWC (homemade)
Film: Tri-X
I built this portable 2-meter (144 MHz) antenna from a plan in Vertical Antenna Classics, published by the American Radio Relay League (ARRL). This simplest way to describe it is as a telescoping 5/8-wavelength vertical antenna above a ground plane of four folding telescoping quarter-wave radial whips.
The heart of the antenna is a BNC female-to-female chassis-mount connector, to which I mounted a steel washer with four equally spaced holes. One of the quarter-wave telescoping antennas is mounted on each hole. I used 19.3" six-section whips that I purchased on eBay.
For the vertical, I used a Diamond RH-205 5/8-wave base-loaded telescoping whip, which is mounted to the upper BNC connector. A 3-foot length of coax cable with male BNC connectors at each end is attached to the lower connector.
I have not yet tested the antenna operationally; the author claims a theoretical 8 dB over the stock rubber duck antenna, though.
This was a great starter project, as the most difficult part was drilling the holes in the washer. It is very light and breaks down into small, easily-packed pieces. My hope is to extend my range during "Summits-On-The-Air" (SOTA) activations.
The above photo shows my little Yaesu VX-6R handheld connected to the antenna.
Make an easy to build portable softbox
- cut a backing frame from a 1/2 gallon plastic milk jug
- shape the plastic to fit the rear of your flash, like a bounce card, narrow at the bottom and more flared out at the top
- line the front of the plastic with a reflective material. I used the shiny mylar material from a package of Nabisco oatmeal cookies. I attached the mylar using double-sided tape.
- tape down the edges of the mylar to the plastic using gaffers tape
- Attach the reflector to flash using rubber bands
- make a "flip down" diffuser using simple tissue paper or other diffusing material
The flash and portable softbox can be used on-camera or off-camera, One Light Strobist style.
See the test shot here.
See my Homebrew Portable Softbox set here.
I built this portable 2-meter (144 MHz) antenna from a plan in Vertical Antenna Classics, published by the American Radio Relay League (ARRL). This simplest way to describe it is as a telescoping 5/8-wavelength vertical antenna above a ground plane of four folding telescoping quarter-wave radial whips.
The heart of the antenna is a BNC female-to-female chassis mount connector, to which I mounted a steel washer with four equally spaced holes. One of the quarter-wave telescoping antennas is mounted on each hole. I used 19.3" six-section whips that I purchased on eBay.
For the vertical, I used a Diamond RH-205 5/8-wave base-loaded telescoping whip, which is mounted to the upper BNC connector. A 3-foot length of coax cable with male BNC connectors at each end is attached to the lower connector.
I have not yet tested the antenna operationally; the author claims a theoretical 8 dB over the stock rubber duck antenna, though.
This was a great starter project, as the most difficult part was drilling the holes in the washer. It is very light and breaks down into small, easily-packed pieces. My hope is to extend my range during "Summits-On-The-Air" (SOTA) activations.
I built this portable 2-meter (144 MHz) antenna from a plan in Vertical Antenna Classics, published by the American Radio Relay League (ARRL). This simplest way to describe it is as a telescoping 5/8-wavelength vertical antenna above a ground plane of four folding telescoping quarter-wave radial whips.
The heart of the antenna is a BNC female-to-female chassis mount connector, to which I mounted a steel washer with four equally spaced holes. One of the quarter-wave telescoping antennas is mounted on each hole. I used 19.3" six-section whips that I purchased on eBay.
For the vertical, I used a Diamond RH-205 5/8-wave base-loaded telescoping whip, which is mounted to the upper BNC connector. A 3-foot length of coax cable with male BNC connectors at each end is attached to the lower connector.
I have not yet tested the antenna operationally; the author claims a theoretical 8 dB over the stock rubber duck antenna, though.
This was a great starter project, as the most difficult part was drilling the holes in the washer. It is very light and breaks down into small, easily-packed pieces. My hope is to extend my range during "Summits-On-The-Air" (SOTA) activations.
Above is a closeup of the heart of the antenna. The only liberty I took with the original plan was to add a 90-degree BNC female-to-male adapter to the bottom connector; the original plan has the coax plugging straight up into the bottom connector. I'm not yet sure if this addition will affect the efficiency of the antenna.
This is a cheap home brew SD card adapter for the Arduino. I will be using this with my Arduino Uno to make a SD floppy disk adapter for my 8bit Atari computers. See www.whizzosoftware.com/sio2arduino for more info on this project.
I got the design from this site : nathan.chantrell.net/20111128/diy-micro-sd-shield-for-ard...
Please take a look at www.retrocomputers.eu for more info about my retro computer collection.
...the key to successfully making it through a shelter-in-place order seems to be one large, ice-cold bottle of homemade 38 proof Limoncello liqueur. Cheers!
#homebrew #beer #fallale #homemade #brewyourown #fermentation #gh5 #strobist
Strobist Info: Speedlite in Brolly camera left 1/16th, background speedlite 1/128 into red gel
(this is one of the beers tom brought me from VT. it was excellent)
i hope your holiday weekend is full of good stuff. cheers!
This time the upload is not really about photography, but brewing beer at home. This was our first all-grain beer brewed with my friends. By now we have our 12th home brew maturing in a keg, but this one, the first one will always be a special memory for us. We made many mistakes despite trying to be very careful. After all it turned out to be a wonderful beer at the end, very rich in flavour, a kind of IPA with a very special taste. With all our mistakes it was then the best beer we'd ever drank. And now we know how to do it even better... :) Cheers!
A crowd of us in the 1980s were homebrew lovers. We met four or five times a year to sample each others' beer. In June of 1987 a couple of dozen of us hired a boat to drink beer and watch whales. I had been taking pictures all afternoon and someone finally took my camera to get me in a picture. I wasn't being demure here; I think I was checking my drink. Or laughing too hard to look up. The man in blue at lower left was the owner of the boat.
I still have that hat with a hole in the top.
This was a Kodak C41 200-speed film, in my Minolta X370. Half the pictures on this roll overlap with other pictures -- something went wrong in the film carriage of the camera but this picture was okay.
Converted CU-5. Rangefinder fixed at around 30" which coincides with the wide open focal point. The Metz flash chosen because it matches in style besides having a nice short range.
My homebrew ferrofluid.
It is a mixture of printer toner (which contains magnetite nanoparticles) mixed with plain olive oil, suspended in distilled water.
The mixing ratio is about two or three parts toner to one part oil.
The black blob can be manipulated with strong magnets, but I still haven't seen the typical spikes.
The toner was harvested from an OKI G282-23 toner cartridge (p/n 09004391).
I will continue to experiment with other suspension fluids and mixing ratios.
Please be extremely careful when trying this.
Gotta love a photography challenge – capturing a rocket shot from a pneumatic Howitzer.
One of the builders said that capturing the rocket ejection by camera was impossible,
as it accelerates from 0 to 1000 ft/sec in a quarter second (corrected from 1000 MPH).
So… we assumed that there would be no way to use human reflexes to time the action, so we decided to use motor drive shooting continuously from just before launch. We used the height of the rail, and the exit speed estimate and the distance of the tripod from the rail to calculate how far the projectile could travel in the 0.25 seconds between frames (4 fps camera), and used the arc tangent to calculate the camera tilt angle. So if the input assumptions were correct, we would be guaranteed to have at least one shot with the rocket in frame. I shot 1/8000 second exposures to freeze the motion, and used tripod to anchor the angle and composition (and dampen my startle reflexes =)
My pal Victor used some French software to post process the 16mm wide-angle perspective back into something less warped.
Shooting continuously with my camera – 0.25 seconds later — a custom g-switch sensed deceleration, and the flight computer popped the parachute streamer. Photo below.
This was an electronics test. Pulling 600 g’s can be a bit harsh. The rocket is a 38mm J570 case with a composite fin can on the rear and a 38mm avionics package and nose cone screwed directly into the forward motor closure. So it’s the ultimate in minimum diameter airframes. The flame-painted motor case is the rocket body.
This weekend, we hope to ignite the motor instead of popping the chute, and set the altitude record for any given motor size. ;-)