View allAll Photos Tagged camerashutter,
Crowded during the day, just mine and a few other photographers' camerashutters could be heard during the chilly nighthours at the Horseshoe Bend.
Sony A7s | Zeiss Batis 18mm F2.8 | 25s | F2.8 | ISO6400
5x7 Speed Graphic Detail
Playing around with the plastic Oly 40-150mm lens.
Olympus Pen-F
Olympus 40-150mm
My first SLR.
Strobist info: Home-made lightbox. Hanimex 325 on its only power setting ('fry'), blue-gelled through folded-up layers of dress lining, and through the top of the lightbox, flagged to hit the background. SB600, snooted with stofen, at 1/4, directed at the shutter from about 30cm.
Explored: #260
After about half a million exposures the shutter in my DSLR called it quits. A part of the linkage that holds the blades of one of the shutter curtains together as they move had cracked, and a small piece had broken off. A hole where a pin used to engage to drive the curtain had turned into a notch, and the whole mechanism ceased to work.
The part likely cracked due to metal fatigue. This camera model's flash sync speed is 1/250 s, which means that the trailing edge of the first curtain and the leading edge of the second curtain must speed up from a standstill, traverse the 24 mm height of the sensor, slow down, and come to a stop, all in less than 4 ms. This requires an acceleration of at least 6000 m/s², or 611 g. The forces acting on those paper-thin shutter blades must be considerable.
When my DSLR camera's shutter failed, I took it apart to find out what had gone wrong, and I took some pictures. Here's a close-up view of part of the surprisingly (to me, at least) complex mechanism that drives the shutter curtains.
Over in We're Here!, we're showing off badges. And, well, here's mine. I wear this on my right shoulder while I'm at the renaissance faire (here it is, on my red and black Damsel in this Dress corset-bodice). The top part that says "sharpshooter" is from one of my old riflery medals in high school (I was on the rifle team, but I took the class as a gym class replacement). When I graduated from high school, I was three target qualifications from "distinguished expert" (so I was just "expert"). And just so you know, I graduated from high school 34 years ago, so my target shooting skills are probably really, really, REALLY rusty.
Anyway, a few years ago, I saw the "shutter" part in an Etsy shop. It was being sold as a steampunk monocle but I thought it would look great with my sharpshooter medal (as it was, I was already wearing "sharpshooter", but with the original medal on it). The shutter is made of brass and it is kind of tarnished for now, considering we didn't have any faires or events in 2020.
So, this is my stinkin' badge.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
Way back in October, my friend- Jess- sent me some monies for my birthday and she said I was to "buy yourself something pretty"... Well, today was my appointment at Tattoo Obscura (in Janesville, Wisconsin) and my request was fulfilled perfectly. When I'm not doing renaissance faire photography, macro photos of flowers are my jam.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
I read a thing on the internet where someone used part of a CD case and some frosted tape to make a "ground glass" for focus setting. I used a piece of transparency (e.g. for overhead projectors) because it's easier to work with and just as effective.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
This seems to be a newer model CLR and the focus ring retaining screws are hidden under the distance gauge ring.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
I read a thing on the internet where someone used part of a CD case and some frosted tape to make a "ground glass" for focus setting. I used a piece of transparency (e.g. for overhead projectors) because it's easier to work with and just as effective.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
This cheap pair of compasses did NOT make a good spanner wrench - bent easily and the needles fell out.
I bought this Voigtländer Vito CLR for a song from a parts bin. Its shutter dial was stiff, so I dug in to find out why. A simple clean and grease of the helicoid has it working much more smoothly.
When my DSLR camera's shutter failed after about half a million exposures, I took it apart to find out what had gone wrong. As expected, some parts of the mechanism, including the linkage that holds the blades of the shutter curtains together as they move, show visible wear. Also, it looks like shutter got wet at some point in the past. The manufacturer said the camera was weather sealed, and I did occasionally take it outside in driving rain.
If you look carefully you can see how the shutter failed. This macro shot shows the damage more clearly.
Repairing poor contacts for the mode selector switch on a Canon A-1. Cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and slightly bent the brushes to improve contact.
Repairing poor contacts for the mode selector switch on a Canon A-1. Cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and slightly bent the brushes to improve contact.
CS Series (Unique Patented Design):
-Applications: Video Imaging, Telescopy, Microscopy, and Holography
-Long Lifetime
-Small Size to Aperture Ratio
CS Series (Unique Patented Design):
-Applications: Video Imaging, Telescopy, Microscopy, and Holography
-Long Lifetime
-Small Size to Aperture Ratio
CS Series (Unique Patented Design):
-Applications: Video Imaging, Telescopy, Microscopy, and Holography
-Long Lifetime
-Small Size to Aperture Ratio
Repairing poor contacts for the mode selector switch on a Canon A-1. Cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and slightly bent the brushes to improve contact.
CS Series (Unique Patented Design):
-Applications: Video Imaging, Telescopy, Microscopy, and Holography
-Long Lifetime
-Small Size to Aperture Ratio