Held during lunchtime on the CBC atrium floor, viewed from the 10th floor.

Tyre Valve.

© Image & Design Ian Halsey MMXV

Old bicycle repair man, outside his shop doing what he loves.

rusticlandphotography.com/bike-repair/

This is a gentle way to push the cartridge in most of the way home. Don't screw too far, or you will lock the cone nut in place with the cartridge not quite all the way home and the C-Clip not yet in place. Instead, remove the cone nut again, find something with a blunt, soft tip (e.g. a short wooden or plastic rod) and use the nylon hammer to tap around the edges of the cartridge, pushing it the final few millimetres. (I'm afraid I didn't take a photo of that).

A nylon-head mallet, two pedal spanners, at least one small screwdriver and one of those adjustable gripping tools. You'll also need a clamp or workbench and a short wooden or plastic rod.

I didn't bother taking a photo of the stage where I removed the track nuts; you can probably work that one out for yourself. Now, use two pedal spanners on the cone nuts. Most probably, only one will come lose. You will then need to find a way to hold the axle fast while removing the other with one pedal spanner. If you don't want to keep the axle, use something like the gripping tool I showed in the tools photo; this will damage the thread on one side. If you would like to keep the axle for future use, you'll need to be more creative.

Place the hub on the vice, carefully adjusting the vice so that the edges are pressing against the flange and the threads are very lightly gripped by the rubber vice ends. Attach a track nut to the top of the axle, to present a wider area for hammering. When you are ready, pick up that nylon-headed hammer and go for it.

The adapted hub sitting snugly in the dropouts of a road frame.

Take care not to push against that inner black surface; it's a soft metal seal protecting the bearings.

Original cone nut on the right, obviously ;)

If you have a special C-Clip tool, this won't be hard. If you do not, then I suggest inserting the C-clip lugs first (that is, the opposite way to what is shown in the photograph) and then using the cone nut to push the rest of the C-Clip into the hub in the same way that you used it to push home the bearing cartridge. Again, don't screw the cone nut all the way home; remove it again and use a screwdriver to ensure that the C-Clip is flush against the cartridge. Once that is done, you can finally screw the cone nut back on and all the way home.

We need a platform to support the hub while we hammer the axle. A clamp is ideal.

This holds the bearing cartridge in place. If you have a specialist C-Clip tool, it will have prongs which fit into the two holes. If you don't, you can fit a small-head screwdriver into the recess behind the two lugs and lever the clip out.

You should be able to use your fingers to push the cup in a few milimeters

Track nut on top of cone nut on top of hub.

Original axle and new axle compared.

And slide the axle back into the hub.

Australia House

If it's gone this far, you succeeded in hammering out the bearing cup. You can stop now and start crawling around the floor, looking for the catridge.

This is what you are looking for.

Halo sell a 120mm to 130mm conversion kit. This is what you get. There are no instructions.

Now you can see the cartridge.

Lawyer lips are an unnecessary "safety feature" that slows quick-release down. For race-fast wheel changes, file 'em off.

Mr. Mark "Hap" Harlow, adjusts the derailleur for better gear shifting during the Bike to Work week exposition at Kelly Barracks on 18 May.

The problem with things that work is that you forget to maintain them, never mind even checking on them 😬

So the chain has developed some minor rust from the worn off wax. So for my use, I’m thinking I should be rewaxing every other week 📆

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#waxingchain #winterizing #bicyclemaintenance #happinessisacleanchain #itstoopristine

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