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The BrickArms LEGO-scale M1911 v2, digitally scaled up to almost-full-size, and 3D printed in ABS plastic with my Ultimaker 2 3D Printer. The brown and black pieces were printed separately, and glued together.
The finished item was acetone vapor polished to give it that glossy smooth look.
THIS IS A NONFIRING PROP, made entirely of plastic
BrickArms M1911 v2, printed at 14x in ABS with my Ultimaker 2 @ .12mm layer height.
Total print time: 24 hours.
The smaller, rougher 4x size is just a print study to make sure I had the nested grip modeled properly when printed at a larger size. The last thing I wanted was for the brown grip to be sized incorrectly!
THIS IS A NONFIRING PROP
• Life-sized Plasma Grenade 3D printed at .12mm layer resolution
• 4x Needler 3D printed at .06mm layer resolution
Both 3D printed with the Ultimaker 2 using Gizmo Dorks ABS, and acetone vapor smoothed for 10 seconds
4x BrickArms Needler
3D Printed at .06mm layers in purple ABS with Ultimaker 2
Acetone vapor smoothed for 10 seconds.
I'm getting the hang of this new printer, I think.
(Armor by Pecovam - painted by me)
The printed items are suspended by a wire over a puddle of acetone in a rice cooker. I bring up the heat until the acetone boils, and the vapor mist is deposited all over the part, and melts the ABS. The longer you leave the part in the rice cooker, the smoother it gets, but the detail gets reduced as a result.
My first 3D printed assembly. I can't wait to wield it in my next game of Munchkin!
Each part was printed separately in fabulous 3mm ABS filament, using an Ultimaker 2 3D printer, at .12mm layer resolution, and acetone smoothed for that "fresh from the foundry" feel.
With a final gluing, this almost-full-sized baby will be complete. It is an exact 18x copy of my LEGO-scale BrickArms Needle gun.
All of the components were printed in pieces (blue, purple, pink, magenta) in Gizmo Dorks ABS filament, on my Ultimaker 2 at .12mm layer height. There are registration pins in each half (hidden in the photo) that I'll use to align the parts during gluing. Oatey ABS glue (found at Home Depot) is used to glue the parts together. The individual needles will be glued in place as well.
I may vapor polish the finished Needler it if I can get a decent-sized vapor booth constructed. A metal trash can, lined with acetone-soaked paper towels should work, as long as it is warm enough to get some evaporation to occur.
Starting to break off the supports. The thin covers over the trigger guard popped out pretty easily, but the ones underneath take a little bit more work.
(Printed with Gizmo Dorks brand 2.85mm PLA @ 1.2mm layer height on an Ultimaker2 with heated bed, glue stick layer, raft, 220c extruder temp and 65c bed temp)
After some sanding, the parts are ready to glue. I made a mistake, and glued two nacelles flip flopped, leaving two the slots all on the same side! That is why there is glue residue on the halves. If a mistake can be made..I'll make it.
See here for more details:
www.flickr.com/photos/95492142@N00/16240008585/
All pieces were printed with 3mm ABS filament at .12mm layer height, using an Ultimaker 2 3D printer over the course of 110 hours.
I printed four of these. Ugg. Took longer than I had expected, but worth it for the incredible surface finish. Each one fills the entire print bed of the Ultimaker 2, from corner to corner.
I wanted to show how the hollow infill structure is generated.
The solid "plugs" in the archways is support material that is removed after printing. Supports allow the hollow areas to be printed without getting droopy plastic there.
The smaller piece is a print test for a 4x Needler.
Part of this project: www.flickr.com/photos/95492142@N00/16240008585/
Printed with Gizmo Dorks purples ABS, with an Ultimaker 2, using a modified BA Needler overmold design.
This is a test of using a light layer of glue stick on the glass build plate, under a raft, and using the 2.85mm Gizmo Dorks PLA, over a 38 hour period.
When this photo was taken this afternoon, it still has 17 hours to go.
This is what the Mk44 has inside. No power cell. No laser focuser, and not even a working hammer or trigger. ;)
We printed several of these for student projects for Ms. Lee's AP World History Empires project. Absolutely gorgeous!
This 3D model was created by Tinkercad user Violetraven975. Link to downloadable file: tinkercad.com/things/gLz49lNQTKl
This video shows how the Ultimaker 2 3D printer using the Cura slicing software, 3D-prints eight #3DBenchy boats in sequence. One at a time!
To learn more about the Ultimaker 3D printer and 3D printing, please visit Ultimaker.CreativeTools.se
#Ultimaker #Ultimaker2 #Cura #Sequentially #3Dprinter #3Dprint #3Dprinting #3Dskrivare #3DP
Janet Kresl Moffat gave me (Mrs. Hanson) a file for the frog, and then she modified it to create the base and writing. The base is a square with a triangle attached. The letters were created in Tinkercad and "holed." I worked hard to figure out how to do the letters without supports!
Modeled in Sketchup, eroded with a plug in, and printed on an Ultimaker 2 with Faberdashery Robot Silver PLA.
The compact 3D printer Ultimaker 2 from Dutch manufacturer Ultimaker. With its roots in the open source community it offers a reliable and sturdy design with very fine layer thickness capacity and a large build volume to size ratio.
The compact 3D printer Ultimaker 2 from Dutch manufacturer Ultimaker. With its roots in the open source community it offers a reliable and sturdy design with very fine layer thickness capacity and a large build volume to size ratio.
The compact 3D printer Ultimaker 2 from Dutch manufacturer Ultimaker. With its roots in the open source community it offers a reliable and sturdy design with very fine layer thickness capacity and a large build volume to size ratio.
The compact 3D printer Ultimaker 2 from Dutch manufacturer Ultimaker. With its roots in the open source community it offers a reliable and sturdy design with very fine layer thickness capacity and a large build volume to size ratio.
The compact 3D printer Ultimaker 2 from Dutch manufacturer Ultimaker. With its roots in the open source community it offers a reliable and sturdy design with very fine layer thickness capacity and a large build volume to size ratio.
The compact 3D printer Ultimaker 2 from Dutch manufacturer Ultimaker. With its roots in the open source community it offers a reliable and sturdy design with very fine layer thickness capacity and a large build volume to size ratio.
We 3D printed #3DBenchy sliced with Cura and 3D printed on an Ultimaker 2 using black PLA plastic, which is specifically good at clearly revealing the printed topology. The settings where as follows:
- Ultimaker 2
- Cura 15.02.1
- Layer: 0.2 mm
- Shell: 1.2 mm
- Top/Bottom: 1 mm
- Infill: 20%
- Speed: 30 mm/s
- Object orientation: Along Y-axis
—
Creative-Tools.com - 3DBenchy.com - #3DBenchy
We 3D printed #3DBenchy sliced with Cura and 3D printed on an Ultimaker 2 using black PLA plastic, which is specifically good at clearly revealing the printed topology. The settings where as follows:
- Ultimaker 2
- Cura 15.02.1
- Layer: 0.2 mm
- Shell: 1.2 mm
- Top/Bottom: 1 mm
- Infill: 20%
- Speed: 30 mm/s
- Object orientation: Along Y-axis
—
Creative-Tools.com - 3DBenchy.com - #3DBenchy
The compact 3D printer Ultimaker 2 from Dutch manufacturer Ultimaker. With its roots in the open source community it offers a reliable and sturdy design with very fine layer thickness capacity and a large build volume to size ratio.
Very nice!
This model was printed on an Ultimaker2Go (which is not listed as an alternative when uploading a 3D print photo here)
We 3D printed #3DBenchy sliced with Cura and 3D printed on an Ultimaker 2 using black PLA plastic, which is specifically good at clearly revealing the printed topology. The settings where as follows:
- Ultimaker 2
- Cura 15.02.1
- Layer: 0.2 mm
- Shell: 1.2 mm
- Top/Bottom: 1 mm
- Infill: 20%
- Speed: 30 mm/s
- Object orientation: Along Y-axis
—
Creative-Tools.com - 3DBenchy.com - #3DBenchy
We 3D printed #3DBenchy sliced with Cura and 3D printed on an Ultimaker 2 using black PLA plastic, which is specifically good at clearly revealing the printed topology. The settings where as follows:
- Ultimaker 2
- Cura 15.02.1
- Layer: 0.2 mm
- Shell: 1.2 mm
- Top/Bottom: 1 mm
- Infill: 20%
- Speed: 30 mm/s
- Object orientation: Along Y-axis
—
Creative-Tools.com - 3DBenchy.com - #3DBenchy
We 3D printed #3DBenchy sliced with Cura and 3D printed on an Ultimaker 2 using black PLA plastic, which is specifically good at clearly revealing the printed topology. The settings where as follows:
- Ultimaker 2
- Cura 15.02.1
- Layer: 0.2 mm
- Shell: 1.2 mm
- Top/Bottom: 1 mm
- Infill: 20%
- Speed: 30 mm/s
- Object orientation: Along Y-axis
—
Creative-Tools.com - 3DBenchy.com - #3DBenchy
We 3D printed #3DBenchy sliced with Cura and 3D printed on an Ultimaker 2 using black PLA plastic, which is specifically good at clearly revealing the printed topology. The settings where as follows:
- Ultimaker 2
- Cura 15.02.1
- Layer: 0.2 mm
- Shell: 1.2 mm
- Top/Bottom: 1 mm
- Infill: 20%
- Speed: 30 mm/s
- Object orientation: Along Y-axis
—
Creative-Tools.com - 3DBenchy.com - #3DBenchy
This Harmonic Drive was printed as a single piece on the Ultimaker² in Faberdashery Woodland Brown PLA. The planertary gear arrangement in the middle drives the flexible spline against the teeth of the outer fixed ring, resulting in a 94.5:1 reduction ratio. Herringbone teeth pattern keeps all the parts locked together after printing, with no fasterners. (www.thingiverse.com/thing:219779)