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Black Bass</b
- broth of blossoms"
I must admit, this wasn't my favorite plate of the night - floral broth, albeit delicate, just didn't match the impeccable fish; also, black bass itself was lacking salinity. That said, it was a world-class dish - it may have not worked for me, but it was elegant and quite exquisite, in every way.
This was an absolute masterpiece, made by Chef Matt Lightner and the Atera crew:
"Spot Prawn"
- rice, king crab
Flawless composition, idea and execution; nothing short of a perfect plate. Magnificent symphony of flavors and perfect seasoning; "prima materia" was beyond anything imaginable.
This is, without a doubt, one of my "Best of 2014" bites.
Equally as impressive, was the sake pairing - Miyamanishiki, Miyazaka, "Last Ride Home", Yamahai Nama, Nagano Ken, Nipon. Perhaps, and quite possibly, one of the top three sake vintages I have ever had. An absolute gem.
"Ash 2009"
- Scene of the seashore
This offering had almost Mediterranean influence to it: squid, roasted yellow peppers, chives (?). The dish was finished with frozen sauce, which created a "chaud froid" effect - warm squid, vs. frozen "ash".
Luxury essence 2007"
- Langoustine
Pristine shellfish ( I've seen this dish made with abalone), superb quality spring vegetables and insane, ultra-clean broth of Chinese Ham and chicken. Again, the flavors of the broth were just as precise and distinctive as the color of that golden liquid itself. This was a very good, but rather pedestrian dish, I thought.
"Sumi 2009"
- Hida beef
This was an outstanding dish - somewhat reminiscent of the Mugaritz beef presentation, but original it it's own right. Beef quality was beyond anything imaginable - Hida beef quality is well above the "exclusive" benchmark. Perfectly cooked ( sous-vide, no doubt) this was a rare treat.
I must say, however, that I enjoyed the beef offering at RuyGin a bit more than the one at Narisawa - although beef quality was very comparable. RuyGIn did a better job with seasoning and accentuating Japanese beef flavors. Don't get me wrong though - Hida Beef at Narisawa is a masterpiece in it's own right.
I was very impressed by the Atera crew - the restaurant employs 30 people to serve two groups of guests per night, 14 seats at a time.
Scallop
- scallop mousse
This was an incredibly gutsy dish - the broth was made with dried scallops; it was assertive, but not overpowering.
Moss
- bread, butter
I truly enjoyed the bread baked tableside, but the sourdough bread served with the "Moss" butter was even more enjoyable. Not certain how the moss was made, but the herbacious flavors were perfectly balanced.
Halibut
- black walnut, green tea pil pil
Remarkable dish - a sophisticated concept and flawless execution. This was a play on the texture contrasts, i thought. Fish was perfectly cooked - sous-vide, I am guessing.
Toriivilla Imamura, Cuvee Tradition 2008
- Katsunuma ,Yamansahi
I was a bit skeptical about trying Japanese wine - sake in Tokyo can not be beat, but this was an amazing vintage! Organically produced in a winery near Mt. Fuji, this was absolutely a world-class bottle that would easily rival any of the first growth Bordeaux.
The winery has a website, although it is Japanese-only: www.toriivilla-imamura.com/
Chiayu
- baby sweet fish
Traditional summer offering in Japan - must have been the very first of the season. It is widely believed that the best west to serve sweet fish is tempura-style and indeed, it was lightly fried. Delicate, but profound flavors.
Okinawa
- pork, dumpling, broth
This small serving reminded me of the clear soup offering served during kaiseki meals - pork broth was incredible!!! Delicate, but full-flavored ( although, not in any way, intense) clear jus of incredible pork and, perhaps, duck was an absolute treat.
Just to be technical for a minute: I have never seen a Chef - Japanese, European or otherwise - who is able to extract as much flavor and to interpret that flavor in a "clear" soup like Master Narisawa. Interestingly enough, the most intense broth I have ever had was also served in Tokyo - in fact, on the same day as my lunch at Les Créations de Narisawa - it was chicken broth at the Isehiro Kyobashi-honten ( the flavors of the latter were more intense, but not nearly as delicate as Narisawa's - yet, it was a masterpiece)
Green Market
- Vegetables, Herbs, Lettuces
Oh, my Heavens!!! This was easily one of the most magnificent, amazing, take-my-breath away plates ever. Vegetables were present in every texture imaginable, taste sensation was beyond words, as was the presentation. Green Market was served on Japanese wooden lacquer plates - a masterpiece in their own right.
I was speechless then, and I still am...
Please take a look at the entire Corton 2011 picture set.
Chiayu
- baby sweet fish
Traditional summer offering in Japan - must have been the very first of the season. It is widely believed that the best west to serve sweet fish is tempura-style and indeed, it was lightly fried. Delicate, but profound flavors.
Rarely have I seen the level of cleanliness and organization like they have at Les Créations de Narisawa - top-notch does begin to describe either.
Dassai 23 Sake
Incredible. This Junmai Daiginjo is brewed in Yamaguchi prefecture, at the legendary Dassai Sake Brewery.
In case you are wondering, "23" refers to how little of the original rice kernel is left after polishing off the outer layers (23%, as it was). This was an absolutely sublime beverage.
Moss
This was the first bite of the afternoon - too many many flavors and textures to list, but I was told to start with cedar-infused water ( top right corner) and it was recommended to eat this dish with my hands.
The central piece on the plate is Jerusalem artichoke, although there were also flavors of leek, onions, green tea and flower petals.
Very creative and incredibly complex dish - it felt natural, however.
"Sumi 2009"
- Hida beef
This was an outstanding dish - somewhat reminiscent of the Mugaritz beef presentation, but original it it's own right. Beef quality was beyond anything imaginable - Hida beef quality is well above the "exclusive" benchmark. Perfectly cooked ( sous-vide, no doubt) this was a rare treat.
I must say, however, that I enjoyed the beef offering at RuyGin a bit more than the one at Narisawa - although beef quality was very comparable. RuyGIn did a better job with seasoning and accentuating Japanese beef flavors. Don't get me wrong though - Hida Beef at Narisawa is a masterpiece in it's own right.
"Soil 2001"
- organic soil
Original Narisawa creation and one of the most unexpected, overwhelming and breathtaking bites ever: organic soil from Nagano prefecture. This was not an infusion of soil, mind you - it was, quite literally, suspension of soil. According to www.japantimes.co.jp this dish is made with burdock (gobo) root and is, essentially, a soup. There is also a video interview with Master Narisawa where he explains his food philosophy and faith and briefly touches on the technique involved into making this magnificent dish.
In case you are wondering, the texture of this bite was incredibly smooth. Delicate, mineral and earthy taste stimulated imagination more than perception - that is one of the underlying principles of the Japanese art and philosophy.
Fugu, Blowfish
- Hagi, Yamaguchi
Typically blowfish is served as sashimi first, followed by tempura, soup and stew. This was an interesting variation of that theme - fugu was served very gently fried, kara-age (から) style with nothing but a sudachi wedge. Most restaurants would also serve a dab of sea salt, but fugu at Narisawa was served perfectly seasoned.
I got really lucky with the lighting on this shot: Fugu could be lethal, but it is also a shining star - I think the black background and bright flood light serve as a subtle reminder of that.
Moss
This was the first bite of the afternoon - too many many flavors and textures to list, but I was told to start with cedar-infused water ( top right corner) and it was recommended to eat this dish with my hands.
The central piece on the plate is Jerusalem artichoke, although there were also flavors of leek, onions, green tea and flower petals.
Very creative and incredibly complex dish - it felt natural, however.
Black Bass</b
- broth of blossoms"
I must admit, this wasn't my favorite plate of the night - floral broth, albeit delicate, just didn't match the impeccable fish; also, black bass itself was lacking salinity. That said, it was a world-class dish - it may have not worked for me, but it was elegant and quite exquisite, in every way.
Charcoal grilled suppon
- Soft-shell turtle, Saga
Oh, my... This was a monumental disappointment, and not only of the otherwise impeccable lunch at Les Créations de Narisawa, but, quite possibly, of the entire trip to Tokyo. Suppon, which was, by the way, alive just a few hours before my lunch did not fit the the "Forrest" theme of the lunch ( although Japanese diners may disagree), nor did it match neither the flavors of any dish served before or after. Although the execution was excellent, as far as grilling is concerned anyway, this plate of food had a faint muddy aftertaste. I am not certain, but I think they have figured it out mid-service - a incredibly nice couple from California at the table to my left was served some kind of white fish instead ( but then again - I am not certain if they asked for that substitution, or not). Either way, I apologize if this plate was beyond my comprehension - I simply did not like it.
It was time to bake the bread: risen dough was placed in a extremely hot hot stone bowl and covered by a cedar plank.
Horse Crab, Noto, Ishikawa
- Satoyama, Satoumi
Satoyama(里山) is a Japanese word used to describe the connecting point between mountain foothills and flat land. Satoumiis the link between the sea and land harvested and populated by those who live nearby.
This was a symphony of flavors and textures - superb crab, root vegetables and sake jelly were the main players here, indeed.
Squab
- cherry glacage, smoked anchovy crème, wild fennel blossom
What can I tell you? Paul Liebrandt makes his food speak for itself - this was no exception. I especially enjoyed the fruit element on the plate.
Please take a look at the entire Corton 2011 picture set.
Kuzumochi, Sakekasu, Strawberry
Another mind blowing dessert offering. Mochi cakes were made with kuzu starch Chef Narisawa makes himself ( 50 kg of arrowroot make about 2 kg of starch - imagine the kind of labor involved!), sake lees jelly and phenomenal strawberries. All of that was dressed with incredible milk sauce.
Sumi
- oyster, edible ink
"Sumi" defines high-quality ink and the very style of ink painting, I believe. In this preparation oyster was magnificently, albeit barely cooked and painted in squid ink ( sumi ika, as it was), I believe. There may have been some kind of vegetable ash/dust incorporated in this dish, as well.
I was told that this sake came courtesy of the sake lees purveyor - it is not sold commercially. As one may expect, it was fantastic.
Master Narisawa was in command of his kitchen through the entire service. Laid back and kind, he had full control over his troops and look fully concentrated on the amazing food his kitchen was making. He also served a few dishes to his guests himself.
Black Bass</b
- broth of blossoms"
I must admit, this wasn't my favorite plate of the night - floral broth, albeit delicate, just didn't match the impeccable fish; also, black bass itself was lacking salinity. That said, it was a world-class dish - it may have not worked for me, but it was elegant and quite exquisite, in every way.
Sawara, Spanish mackerel
- Hagi, Yanaguchi and Onion essence, Amanohashidate, Kyoto
Very complex dish: mackerel, sake lees and another masterpiece of a broth - this time made with roasted onions, I am guessing.
Dining room is quite intimate - only 26 seats are available for both lunch and dinner. Although the website showed no available tables for weeks before my lunch, a two top table sat empty during my lunch - restaurant no-shows could be a problem even in Japan, I guess. That said, this also presents an opportunity: it wouldn't hurt to call the restaurant at the eleventh hour - there may be an opening, after all.