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“Jupiter Mission: Pioneer Galileo Entry Probe Artwork (heatshield separation)

Artist: C Kallas

(JPL ref: 4S30599)”

 

Since the JPL is cited, it’s possibly their ‘original’ caption associated with the image? At:

 

archive.org/details/AILS_AC89-0146-3

Credit: Internet Archive website

 

Also, which may be THE original Hughes Aircraft Company caption:

 

“Artistic impression of the Galileo atmospheric probe as it would enter the atmosphere of Jupiter.”

 

At:

 

commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Galileo_probe_-_artisti...

Credit: Wikimedia Commons

 

Additionally, what was likely an oft-reproduced press slug for the re-issue of the photo upon Galileo’s arrival at Jupiter:

 

“On Dec. 7, 1995, more than six years after its launch, the Galileo spacecraft’s probe, shown in this 1989 artist’s rendering, will parachute down through the 28,000 mph winds of Jupiter to become the first manmade object to touch an outer planet.”

 

8.375” x 11”.

 

A beautiful & rich work by Chris Kallas, another eminently talented - yet excruciatingly enigmatic artist - with minimal attribution provided him. As such, there’s nary a trace, history or record available, despite at least a smattering of admirable works 'appropriated' by JPL/ARC.

Based upon this image and the linked works, Mr. Kallas’ would appear to have been employed by/contracted to Hughes Aircraft Company, being the manufacturer of the items ‘featured’ in the images.

 

Finally, and check this out...the plethora, variety and diversity of artist’s concepts depicting the Galileo probe’s deployment, atmospheric entry & parachute descent is quite surprising! Seriously, click on the following link:

 

www.google.com/search?q=galileo+probe+concept&rlz=1C1...

Credit: Google search results

 

Am I right or what?

I recently added a 1-wire thermometer network, using the 1-wire USB adapter (DS9490R), temperature sensors (DS18S20), speaker wire, and audio plugs, jacks, and splitters.

 

A smaller version of this graph is shown on my Insteon thermostat web control page.

 

The temperature sensors seem to be very accurate (well, precise, at least). They're digital, so no calibration required (they are factory calibrated, I assume). And with 1-wire technology, you can string lots of them on one common data line (and ground, so it's actually a 2-wire system, but who's counting).

 

The sensor for the blue graph is run up inside one of the A/C vents, so I can get a direct indication of the A/C output. As you can see, it does about 1-2 cycles per hour. (I bumped the thermostat up from 78 to 80 around 10am.)

 

The outside sensor is hanging out the window by my computer, in the shade of the bushes and the big tree out front, so I don't think direct sunlight is affecting it much in the afternoons.

 

Oh, and this image is from a custom-made graphing page from the temperature logs using PHP and GD. Temperature logging is done by digitemp every 15 seconds.

The MLX90614 reports ambient air temperature as well as the temperature of objects as estimated using far infrared blackbody radiation. The IR view is over a wide arc, so it normally averages the temperatures of a bunch of things in view. There is a different kind of MLX90614 (the kinds are designated by some alphabet soup at the end of the name that I have omitted) that does have a narrow IR view.

 

I was thinking it might work to tell when I'm sleeping, but its wide view might prevent that. The most common way to tell if a room is occupied is by using devices that sense motion, but I'd like to make something that doesn't have to guess that I'm sleeping to avoid incorrectly figuring that I'm not home.

 

The documentation for the MLX90614 has this gem:

I consider using MLX90614AAA to measure temperature within car compartment, but I am embarrassed about the Sun light that may hit the module. Is it a significant issue?

woman officer use scaner thermometer check a temperature of all person before pass to office inside for working

All components & wires now positioned within box. Screw tabs can be seen in each corner.

 

Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay

Sensor in original position was reading approx 5 degrees higher than ambient. Re-positioning resulted in correct temperature readings.

 

Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay

Setup using 2 x IN-14 nixie tubes and Arduino UNO R3

 

Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay

Setup using 2 x IN-14 nixie tubes and Arduino UNO R3

 

Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay

Electrical engineers at the University of California San Diego have developed a temperature sensor that runs on only 113 picowatts of power — 628 times lower power than the state of the art and about 10 billion times smaller than a watt. This near-zero-power temperature sensor could extend the battery life of wearable or implantable devices that monitor body temperature, smart home monitoring systems, Internet of Things devices and environmental monitoring systems.

 

Press release: jacobsschool.ucsd.edu/news/news_releases/release.sfe?id=2252

NOTE There is now an improved version of this available here and a post on my blog here.

 

This is the stripboard layout for my wireless temperature sensor module.

 

The RFM12B is fitted to a small carrier board because I only have a 5V FTDI cable for programming and as the RFM12B isn't 5V tolerant it needs to be removed during programming. It also has the benefit of allowing the final board to be smaller as the space under the RFM12B can be used while still keeping everything neat. Hat tip to Andrew Lindsay for the idea of mounting RFM12Bs like this.

 

More about this on my blog here.

 

NOTE: As pointed out by @netcompsys I've missed a track cut out on this diagram, the track from the data pin (blue wire) of the DS18BS20 should be cut under the 4K7 Resistor.

 

Laser cuts through insulation. Two passes needed - once for each side for complete removal

End can easily be removed while maintaining a neat and even length cable.

Each tube requires 10 wires - one for each cathode.

DS18B20 requires a 4.7k Pull-up resistor. Mounted on bottom of sensor board.

This time the picture shows a

temperature sensor. If the oven is hot enough, the sensor will open, and turn off the lamp. So the quicksilver in the switch, gets cold, and open the Hg - switch.

3 x Ribbon cables are to drive the 3 driver chips

 

Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay

DS18B20 mounted on sensor board

Machined pin headers used for IC sockets. Marks indicate #1 end & Vcc

Blue heat-shrink covers 22k resistors

INS-1 neon indicator - similar vintage to IN-12A tubes.

Sensor in this position was reading approx 5 degrees higher than ambient due to heat generated by HV power supply etc. Moved after final assembly - See last two photos for modification.

INS-1 neon indicator - similar vintage to IN-12A tubes.

Vintage Russian High Voltage BCD - Decimal driver ICs. Date code indicates mfg. Feb, 1988

Sensor in original position was reading approx 5 degrees higher than ambient. Re-positioning resulted in correct temperature readings.

 

Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay

555 Boost converter - takes 9-12v and boosts to 170V+

Arduino Pro Micro mounted to rear of box using 3M Pull-Tab double-sided tape.

 

Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay

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