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This is the view of the most visited pedestrian bridge in Prague, at the heart of the city - view at each side of the bridge (old city side for the left picture, and castle side for the right picture). I reveal the technical secrets behind the photo in the following comments below.

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Wikipedia extract:

"The Charles Bridge (Czech: Karlův most) is a famous historic bridge that crosses the Vltava river in Prague, Czech Republic. Its construction started in 1357 under the auspices of King Charles IV, and finished in the beginning of the 15th century. As the only means of crossing the river Vltava (Moldau) until 1841, the Charles Bridge was the most important connection between Prague Castle and the city's Old Town and adjacent areas. This "solid-land" connection made Prague important as a trade route between Eastern and Western Europe.

The bridge is 516 meters long and nearly 10 meters wide, resting on 16 arches shielded by ice guards. It is protected by three bridge towers, two of them on the Castle side and the third one on the Old Town side. The Old Town bridge tower is often considered to be one of the most astonishing civil gothic-style buildings in the world. The bridge is decorated by a continuous alley of 30 statues and statuaries, most of them baroque-style, originally erected around 1700 but now all replaced by replicas."

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Photo Technical details:

Nikon D700 on tripod with lens Voigtlander Nokton 58mm f/1.4 SLII. Use of B+W filter ND1000x (black glass) to eliminate people walking on the bridge with a 5 minute exposure (they were literally dozens of people non stop on that bridge).

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Exclusive Profession secrets behind the photo:

Knowing the trick of the black glass filter to eliminate people is not enough to be able to do this photo. It took me a total of 40 minutes to be able to produce these two views of the bridge and I know my camera controls and menu settings access by heart even in full night!

The challenges pile on very quickly:

- too many people/tourists on the bridge require at least a 3 minute pause, but often 5 minutes because some stop for a minute or more to take photos just like me.... Long exposures means noise with difficult black tones rendition. Long exposure also means less control on the right moment to trigger as the next bus load of tourists arriving 2 minute in your exposure can ruin your pause...... Tip: I used low ISO (I used ISO 500 and 640 respectively for the two pictures) to avoid too much electronic amplification and retain the dark/black tones of the night. The tip for the bus load of tourist pouring in is not very creative: just another retake and some warm drink :)

- as soon as you put the black glass filter (10 stop neutral density filter) you just see a "black hole" meaning nothing, nada,...Not exactly very convenient to know what you are shooting!

- that night it was -10 degrees C with wind and my fingers were frozen despite photographers gloves so removing and putting back the filter all the time to frame or level the camera was not practically feasible. Tip: I used the very convenient artificial horizon function of the D700 body for leveling purposes and did some framing tests at faster speeds (3200 ISO, f/1.4 aperture) not to waste time even if it meant seeing the people on the test shots.

- Real 5 min exposure cannot be done practically without a remote control accessory as the longest exposure time of the D700 is 30 sec in Aperture priority mode and the bulb function requires that you keep the finger pushed on the trigger and take the risk of shaking the camera during 5 minutes - a time long enough to get cramps :). Tip I used a Cleon II Phottix remote control (cheaper than the

nikon MC-30 accessory) which is more flexible with multiple functions such as delayed triggering, multiple triggering. The needed function I used was the "hold slider function" that locks the button pushed for you until you release it 5 minutes later, thus allowing you to put back your hands in your pocket or find some protection against the wind while leaving the camera working alone on the tripod.

- finally you need to color compensate the camera as this filter is not color neutral and produces an obvious yellow/red color cast. Tip: use white balance function and Blue correction sub-function (B3)

It sounds complicated to do but with practice it is not really. You just need time/patience, and the final result really rewards you with a photo that very few people can do.... This alone gives me motivation and satisfaction. I hope that you enjoyed this difficult to find photo tip - a present to my followers....

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