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Seen Here: The PCB with chips and resistors etc all done.
So, today my PCB for the LED matrix arrived from BatchPCB! For what I paid, the PCB arrived fairly quickly - I ordered it on the 15/02 I believe, and it arrived 11/03 -- 26 days, which is pretty good (they state 19 business days).
The quality is very, very impressive - far better than anything I could pull off at home. The silkscreen and soldermask makes it look really nice, too.
Soldering it was a joy, although there was a LOT to solder and it's all surface mounted.
I had a few problems at first; it wasn't lighting the matrix at all properly but I soon realised with my new design (transistors on the cathodes) I have to write the transistors HIGH to get a LOW on the cathode, so a quick line of code changed to get that working.
Then for some reason the top half of every letter was flipped. It turns out this was my fault: I messed up when making the package for the LED matrix in Eagle, swapping the matrix's 5th cathode for my system's 8th, 6th for 7th, 7th for 6th and 8th for 5th. This was fairly easy to fix in code, however.
Finally USB isn't working to program or communicate, but I can configure the FT232RL chip (after all, it's sending the clock pulse that's driving my ATmega168). I think I have an idea of what's causing this, but I'm not sure yet.
Autolab Shield for Arduino Mega.
PCB vue of my future Jobo Alt homemade.
it's made with Fritzing (fritzing.org/)
For more on the machine see : diyautolab.blogspot.com/
(in french for now)
And others pictures will be published on this account : diy-effixe on Flickr
...with a grill!
I needed to try out my solder paste and wanted to reflow solder these parts, especially the tricky switch and SD card which would be a pain to solder by hand. I don't have an IR oven or a hot plate (or a reflow machine!) but I do have a standard home grill and figured it would be perfect: the fan moves the air, keeping everything the same temperature while the heating elements are overhead and far away enough to heat uniformly over the surface.
It took 5 minutes from turning on until every joint had reflowed (they started reflowing at 4min) and then I left them for a minute out of the grill to cool down. They seem to have soldered perfectly!
I'm still waiting for the parts for the other two PCBs, but the method seems to be great - and loads quicker than doing it by hand!
P.S. yea, it's not a very well regulated temperature, but I don't have a thermometer that could cope so it's pretty difficult to measure
Altium is a *great* tool. Design-wise, we used two Arduino Mega 2560's, a Synapse wireless module, Locosys LS20031, Chronodot, and a bunch of (fun) design time!
A close-up of the pcb before components. Copper traces are tinned to prevent oxidation. Text height is 1.5 mm.
Moem was cutting a bit of PCB for one of her projects, a circuitboard book cover for a small notebook.
Truma Ultrastore water heater PCB. This is part number : 70020 - 72100, this replaces 70020-71600, Ebay sells these new from £49 to £120.
It's possible the fault will be a bad connection between header sockets and plugs J1 to J3 or crimping/oxidization between conductor and header plug tab - hopefully ! unplug the connectors then plug them in again - see if that cures the problem.
Replace 1.6amp slow blow fuse, even if it looks good, clean up fuse holder, look underneath at soldering, resolder any dodgy solder joints, if possible use a small tip 15 watt solder iron and don't leave too long on the joint to be resoldered, about 2 to 3 seconds is good. Its always advisable to use a anti-static wrist band and/or at least ground yourself before handling the PCB.
IBM PCB 07N6570 (PCB Swap, PCB Replacement, PCB Logic Board Sale, Buy PCB Circuit Board - HDDZone.com)
Everything looks good! This version is considerably smaller than the prototype.
Three US customary skittles provided for size reference; no metric skittles were available at the time.
We're busy with a project at work that requires the pcb to have a nice fit in a enclosure with some other components (such as a transformer). We decided to cut it on the rockcliff cnc machine. Worked very nice after some tweaking.
The PCB assembled with all of the components. My custom design is fully open source and available to download from Thingiverse.
1 electrolytic surface mount capacitor to be replaced, C8609 value 100uf at 4 volts, marked by sharpie. 1 cap added on regulator Q8654.
This PCB design was created in Fritzing. The amazing this is that I only put it together in the Prototyping mode, and when I clicked on the "PCB" button It was there ready and waiting for me. I did have to edit the tracks but all the components were there letting me know which connections needed to be made.
Now I need to get into etching my own PCBs!
If you're interested in electronics, you can get the executable here: fritzing.org/. Available for Windows, Linux and Mac, Source available as well.